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TIBF'I 
TL  ; 


^loration 


/  /,  o 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 

LOS  ANGELES 


/ 


IN    TIBET 
AND    CHINESE    TURKESTAN 


FOR    CLIMB2RS,   TRAVELLERS,   AND   OTHERS. 

IN  THE  ICE-WORLD  OF  HIMA- 
LAYA. Bv  Fanny  Bullock  Workman 
and  William  Hunter  Workman.  Illus- 
trated from  Photographs,  and  with  Four 
large    Maps.     Demy    8vo,  cloth   gilt,    1 6s. 


Lonpon:   T.    fisher    L'NWIN,    Paternoster   Square,    E.G. 


y^/f/  /^%^..fL^ 


IN    TIBET  AND   CHINESE 
TURKESTAN 

BEING  THE  RECORD  OF  THREE 
YEARS'     EXPLORATION 

BY 

CAPTAIN    H.    H.    P.    DEASY 

LATE  16TH  QUEEN'S  LANCERS, 
GOLD  MEDALIST  OF  THE 
ROYAL  GEOGRAPHICAL  SOCIETY 

^A/'ITH    APPENDICES,    MAPS, 
AND    ILLUSTRATIONS     -i-        -■■ 


ii;;;^t;  llic  fio^cn   Yaikaiitl  Rivii 


LONDON:    T.    FISHER    UNWIN 
PATERNOSTER    SQUARE.     1901 


SECOXD    IMPRESSION 


[All  rigJtts  reserved  ] 


/^ 


PREFACE 


TN  presenting  to  the  public  a  record  of  my  journeys  and 
-"-  explorations  in  Tibet  and  Chinese  Turkestan,  I  wish 
to  express  my  heartfelt  thanks  to  Colonel  St.  G.  C.  Gore, 
B.E.,  Surveyor-General  of  India,  and  to  the  Officers  and 
Officials  of  the  Trigonometrical  Branch  at  Dehra  Dun  for 
the  very  great  assistance  given  me  by  them,  both  privately 
and  officially. 

My  thanks  are  also  due  to  my  friend,  Arnold  Pike,  for 
his  genial  companionship,  his  very  valuable  services  in 
numerous  ways  and  for  his  ready  acquiescence  in  allowing 
me  to  reproduce  some  of  his  photographs. 

Amongst  the  many  others  to  whom  I  owe  a  debt  of 
gratitude  are  the  Council  of  the  Royal  Geographical 
Society;  Major  G.  Chenevix  Trench,  formerly  British 
Joint  Connnissioner  in  Ladak;  Captain  A.  H.  MacMahon, 
C.I.E.,  C.S.I.,  formerly  Political  Agent  at  Gilgit ;  G. 
Macartney,  Esq.,  CLE.,  Special  Assistant  for  Chinese 
Affairs  to  the  Kesident  in  Kashmir  ;  Major  W.  R.  Yeilding, 
CLE.,  D.S.O.  ;  the  Astronomer  Royal,  Mr.  W.  H.  M. 
Christie,  C.B. ;  Mr.  E.  G.  ]^aker,  of  the  British 
Museum,  for  kindly  preparing  the  ]^otanical    Appendix  ; 


518767 


viii  PRJ-I'ACE. 

and  Mr.  G.  Iv  H.  I^arrett-Hamilton,  F.Z.S.,  for  allowinj^' 
me  to  publish  his  Paper  on  my  coHection  of  Mammals. 

Of  a  more  special  cliaracter  is  my  gratitude  towards  the 
many  friends  who  showed  me  kindnc^ss  during  two  long 
weary  months  spent  in  the  Ripon  Hospital  at  Simla. 

1  am  indebted  to  the  Koyal  Geographical  Society  for 
allowing  me  to  reproduce  the  map  whicli  is  a  reduction 
from  all  the  sheets  of  my  maps  publisluul  by  the  Survey 
of  India. 

Throughout  this  work  I  have  been  actuated  by  one 
main  idea,  and  that  is  to  record  the  more  interesting 
features  of  my  journeys  without  in  any  w'ay  exaggerating. 

H.    H.    P.    DEASY. 

Cavalry  Club,  Piccadilly. 
Marcli,  1901. 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTElt    I 

Desire  to  explore — Tibet  a  good  field — Difficulties  to  be  encountered  — 
Object  of  expedition — Preparations  in  Srinagar — Goodbye  to 
Trench — Crossing  the  Zoji  La — Matayan — Journey  to  Leh — Ar- 
ranging the  caravan — Departure  from  Leh — Visit  to  Himis 
Monastery — Crossing  the  Chang  La — Hired  transport — Fobrang — 
Final  preparations — The  Marsemik  La  Cluing  Chenmo — Crossing 
the  frontier — Entering  unknown  land  Without  guides — Com- 
mencement of  triangulation — Horpa  or  Gurnien  Cho — Magnificent 
snow  mountains  -I'ntrained  assistants — Ourlirstyak — Yeshil  Kul 
— No  water — "  Fever  Camp  "  .  .  .  .  . 


CilAl'TEl!    11 

Serious  and  light  literature — Death  of  animals — Excursion  of  Leno — 
Dad  water — llecovery — Weakness^Continuing  the  journey — 
Observation  under  difficulties  —Thousands  of  antelopes — Recon- 
noitring— Sickness  -Darren  and  waterless  country  -Economising 
candles — Another  route  decided  upon  -Lazy  caravan  men — Tame 
antelope — Death  of  Pike's  pony-  -"  Daily  "  stream — Fertile  valley 
— Difficulty  of  finding  a  ford — Am  Cho — Death  of  my  riding  pony 
— Illness  of  Sanman — Animals  straying  -Caravan  men  suspected 
-    IJohhcd  by  Chnkpas  ...... 


CONTENTS. 


CHAl'TER   III 

PAGK 

Council  of  War — Plan  of  operations — Skill  and  pluck  of  Pike — 
Changfunchuk — Chukpas  completely  surprised — Anxiety  about 
Pike — Searching  for  missing  animals — Burning  surplus  baggage — 
Our  situation — Serious  outlook — "Caching"  stores — Making 
clothes  out  of  tents  -Illness  of  Pike — Anxiety  about  water — 
Waterless  camp — Meeting  with  Xomads — They  refuse  to  help  us — 
Shown  the  wrong  direction — Lost  in  the  desert       .  .  .38 

CHAl'TEK    IV 

Lost  in  the  desert — Found  by  Pike — Sudden  ending  of  a  river — 
Keconnoitring — Entering  inhabited  country : — Gerge — Negotiations 
with  Tibetans — Inquisitive — Medicine  useless — Enemy  strongly 
reinforced — No  assistance  obtainable — We  decide  to  start  at  all 
costs — Expected  fight — Peaceful  departure — False  news — Gerche 
— Arranging  for  transport — Natives  willing  to  assist  us — Fear  of 
severe  punishments — Compelled  to  return  to  Ladak — Departure 
from  Gerche — Alternative  routes — Difficulty  of  surveying — Scarcity 
of  grass  and  water — Dreadful  sore  backs — Treatment  of  wounds — 
Eecord  Ovis  Amnion  head     .  .  .  .  .  .51 


CHAPTEE    V 

Good  water — Difficult  ascent — Hard  work — Departure  of  our  escort — 
Mountain  sickness — Game  very  wild — Misled  by  guide — Annoying 
,  ponies — Trying  ascent  to  a  hill  station — News  of  Chukpas — Guides 
propose  an  attack — Division  of  spoil — Keze  Chaka — Halwa —  En- 
forced short  marches — Bad  state  of  transport — Feelings  of  Tibetans 
towards  Europeans — Pombos — Taxes — Curious  behaviour  of  sick 
mule — Dusty  camp — Frozen  ink — Waterless  camp — Strange  river 
— In  search  of  Kundor — Flashing  signals — Reliable  news  of  Rundor 

CHAPTEl!    VI 

llamzan  sent  to  Ladak — His  excuse  for  delaying — Pike's  love  of  cold 
water  —  Annoying  caravan  men  —  Rundor  —  "  Presents  "  from 
Pombo — Fresh  transport — Names  of  places — Large  glacier — The 
Nabo  La — Mountain  sickness — Sanman  again  disobedient — The 
last  halt — Cold  weather — Accident  to  theodolite — End  of  survey- 
ing— Strange  visitor — Rassoula's  "  konka  " — Grass  and  fuel  very 
scarce — Death  of  animals — Our  scribe  Rassoula — Sending  for 
transport  and  supplies — Shooting  ponies — Arrival   of    men  from 


CONTENTS.  ..        xi 

PAGK 

Lutkum — \Yoo(l  at  last — The  waterless  camps^Arrival  at 
Lutkum — Retain  to  Leh — The  Zoji  La  in  winter — Frozen  to 
death — End  of  journey         .  .  .  .  .  .82 

CHAPTER   VII 

Preparations  at  Srinagar — Start  from  BandiJJtora — Trouble  with  Khalik 
— Trial  of  Khalik — Stay  at  Gilgit — Hunza — Mutinous  pony  men 
— Journey  to  the  Pamirs — Frost-bitten — Difficulty  of  surveying  in 
winter — Trouble  with  natives — Visit  to  Cobbold     .  .  .       101 


CHAPTER   VIII 

Earthquakes  —  Raskam — -Fording  Yarkand  River — Bazar  Dara — 
Approach  to  Kukalung  Pass — Zad — Recrossing  Kukalung  Pass — 
Camp  at  10,000  feet — Incorrect  maps — Description  of  country — 
Illness  of  Dalbir  Rai — Approach  to  Sandal  Dawan — Bivouacking 
on  mountain-side — Dysentery — Easy  marches — Arrival  at  Yarkand     HO 


CHAPTER   IX 

Reception  at  Yarkand — Dining  with  the  Amban — After  effects — 
Swedish  missionaries — Another  attempt  at  exploration  in  winter 
— Route  followed — Foiled  by  snowstorm — Recrossing  the  Yarkand 
River — Punishment  of  dishonest  natives — Incapacitated  by  illness 
— Kosarab — Return  to  Yarkand — Meeting  Macartney  and  Father 
Hendriks — Stay  in  Yarkand— Apology  of  Teetai — Observing  in 
Yangi  Shahr- -Ignorance  of  Chinese  officials — Islam  Akun  - 
Preparations  for  excursion  to  the  Takla  Makan — Discover}*  about 
"  ancient  "  Khotan  MSS. — Suspicions  about  Islam  Akun  .  132 


CHAPTER  X 

Departure  from  Yarkand — Guma— The  Takla  Makan  -Kara  Targaz — 
Waste  of  water — Ignorance  of  guides — Lucky  return — Punishment 
of  guides — Return  to  Guma — Journey  to  Khotan — Khotan  - 
Islam  Akun  rewarded  -Run  on  the  medicine  chest — Diseases — 
Chloroform— Important  operation — Departure  for  Polu — Chaka — 
Hazy  weather — Escaping  attention — Entertained  by  a  Mullah  - 
Polu — Stay  at  Polu — Negotiations  with  Cliinese  —Anxiety  about 
Ladakis — Kiria — Delay  there— Niglit  march — Sorgak  gold  mines 
— Raju  very  lazy — Kara  Sai  .....     1-")1 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER   XI 


PAGE 


Departure  for  Tibet — Chinese  post — Tolan  Khoja  valley — Second 
journey  to  Tibet — Atish  Pass — Shor  Kul — Digging  for  water — 
The  Kiria  River — Yepal  Ungur — Bad  weather — Reconnoitring — 
Raju  leaves  for  Polu — Journey  to  Aksu — Beginning  triangulation — 
Return  to  Yepal  Ungur — Departure  of  Kara  Sai  men — Fine  snow 
range — Going  east  again — Reconnoitrers  useless — Bad  health — 
No  feasible  route — Yepal  Ungur  once  more — Fording  Kiria  River 
— Ruin  at  Baba  Hatun — Sources  of  Kiria  River — Numerous 
glaciers — Journey  to  Yeshil  Kul — Return  to  "Fever  Camp" — 
Connecting  with  1890  work  ......     171 


CHAPTER   Xn 

Magnificent  scenery — Wellby's  peaks — Strong  winds — Returning — 
Work  near  Babu  Hatun — Return  to  Aksu — Arrival  of  Raju  with 
supplies — Checking  previous  work — Dalbir  Rai  sick — Ulugh  Kul — 
Sources  of  Khotan  River — Fine  yak — Camp  116 — Accident  to 
ponies— Finishing  surveying— The  Polu  gorge— Punishing  theft 
—Vile  track — Welcome  presents — Return  to  Polu— Dinner  to 
headmen — Dalbir  Rai  threatens  to  murder  me — Abdul  Karim  saves 
bloodshed— Bad  weather— Return  to  Yarkand— Dilatory  post         .     191 


CHAPTER   XHI 

Preparations  at  Yarkand — Fourth  attempt  to  explore  valley  of  Yarkand 
River — Route  followed — Dentistry — The  Khandar  Dawan — Lying 
Tajiks — Wacha  or  Uchi— Reception  by  Ming  Bashi  and  headmen 
— Return  to  Gombaz — Visit  from  Sher  Mohammed — Airy  tents — 
Measuring  bases— Fine  views  of  Muz  Tagh  Ata — Its  height — Hard 
work — Arrival  of  Ram  Singh — Error  in  longitude  of  Gombaz — 
No  information  obtainable — Start  for  Mariong — Mariong— No 
Pamir — False  information — Nosh  Tung — The  Yarkand  River- 
Lying  natives — Steep  gravel  slope — Camp  in  jungle — Bad  track — 
No  route  ......••     204 


CHAPTER   XIV 

Description  of  valley — Height  of  mountains — Return  to  Nosh  Tung^ 
Hiring  yaks— The  Sargon  Pass — Dangerous  descent — Pinchanyart 
— Grombchef sky's  route — Frozen  rivers — Jungle — Shamatagle — 
Difficulty  of  observing — The  Tugadir  Pass— Awful  track — Meeting 


J 


CONTEXTS.  xiii 


with  Pil  men — Dangerous  corner — Pil — No  petroleum — Suspicions 
about  me — Unable  to  descend  the  valley — Arrival  of  supplies — 
Borrowing  more  money — Departure  from  Pil— Chadder  Tash — 
Accident  to  donkey — "  Drop  "  on  track — Anxiety  about  animals — 
Slow  march — Pilipert  ......     226 


CHAPTEE   XV 

Yul  Bash — Guides  entrapped — Ascent  up  glacier — The  Mamakul  Pass 
— Trying  observations — Exposure — The  descent— Zambok  frozen 
to  death — Long  march — Travelling  in  the  dark — Miskan — Difficult 
march — Easkam — Lazy  yak-men — Object  accomplished — Lengthy 
detour — Precipitous  ascent  to  Topa  Dawan — Good  news— Yul 
Bash  the  liar — Accident  to  yak — Eeturn  route — Tents  useless — 
Earn  Singh  does  good  work— Natives  refuse  information— Paying 
off  the  yak-men — Issok  Bulok  Agzi  ....     242 


CHAPTEE   XVI 

My  friends  the  Kirghiz — Eejoining  the  caravan — Eeturn  of  Islam — 
Second  Christmas  at  Zad — Down  the  Kulan  Urgi  valley — Tir  re^ 
visited — Ice  still  too  weak — Excursions  from  Tir — Cold  bivouacs 
— Frozen  rivers — The  Kuramut  Dawan — Apathy  of  natives — 
Guide  frost-bitten — Ghosts — Down  the  Yarkand  Eiver — News 
from  Kashgar — Alarm  about  plague — Annoying  natives — Langar 
— Tashkurghan  Eiver — Narrow  escape  of  caravan — Eotten  ice — 
Bridging — Donkeys  escape  cold  bath — Description  of  valley — 
Short  of  money — Bad  part  of  track — Cutting  ice-steps  for  animals 
— The  Kesin  Pass — Surveying  under  difficulties — Evicting  animals 
from  house — Unpleasant  surroundings — No  water — An  unexpected 
meeting — Crossing  the  Teriart  Eiver — Waterproofing  my  garments 
— Curious  cavities  in  rocks — Sending  news  to  Kashgar — Task 
completed- Back  to  Chumdi— Up  the  Asgan  Sal  valley— Eobbery 
by  Chinese  official — Completion  of  journey — Eeturn  to  Yarkand    .     200 


CHAl'TElt    XVII 

Trouble  about  money— The  Khan  Arik  route — Large  oasis — Khan 
Arik — Meeting  Macartney — Hospitable  hosts — Civilisation — Muz 
Tagh  Ata  and  Mount  Kungur — The  Taotai — Formal  complaints — 
His  promise — Dinner  with  the  Taotai — Feeling  a  fool — M.  Peti'ov- 
sky — Swedish  missionaries — Macartney's  position — Departure 
from  Kashgar  .  .  .  .  .  .  .     283. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTPn;  XVIII 

PAGE 

ilarpa — Preparations  in  Yaikand — Attack  on  missionaries — Plucky 
behaviour  of  Macartney — Delays  in  starting — Eastwards  once 
more — Stopped  at  Khotan — Complaint  to  Macartney — Stormy 
interviews  with  Amban — Passport  useless — Circumventing  the 
Amban — Reply  to  complaint — Dust  storm  in  desert — Arrival  at 
Polu  —  Loss  of  sheep  —  Opposition  by  Chinese  —  Negotiations 
broken  off — "  Protection  "  refused — Eaju  dismissed — No  assistance 
obtainable — Compelled  to  start         .....     297 


CHAPTER   XIX 

Heavy  rain — Fresh  animals— Hard  work — Death  of  Kasim — Snow- 
storms— Driving  sheep — Loss  of  baggage — Bleak  bivouac — Saroz 
Kul — Ponies  strayed — False  alarm — Amban's  "kind"  oi'ders — 
Sickness — Meeting  Islam  with  camels — Camp  110 — Ram  Singh 
still  unable  to  work — Imperative  to  abandon  journey — "  Caching  " 
— Return  to  Ladak — Meeting  Europeans  again — Green  fields — Leh 
— Disposal  of  caravan — Pleasant  march — Srinagar — Simla — Hos- 
pital— Kind  visitors — Homewards    .....     312 


CHAPTER    XX 

Administration — Cost  to  China — Unpaid  officials — Squeezing — Taxes 
— Forced  loan  —  "  Justice  "  —  Prisons  —  Paupers  —  Irrigation  — 
Slavery  —  Agriculture  —  Industries  —  Minerals  —  Trade —  Money- 
lenders— Transport  animals — Post —Telegraph        .  .  .     328 


CHAPTER   XXI 

Strength  of  "Army" — Military  administration— Artillery — Accident 
to  "  Artillery  "  officer — Russian  designs — The  Kanjut  claims — 
Russian  counter-claims — Opinion  of  Chinese  rule — Necessity  for 
care — Possible  danger  from  Afghanistan — Sport — Ovu  Poll — 
Rurrhel — Chicore — Antelope — Kyang — Yak  .  .  .     349 

.APPENDICES      .  .  .  _.  .  .  .  .     -ddr) 

GLOSSARY         .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .407 

INDEX    .........     409 


LIST   OF   ILLUSTRATIONS 


THE    AUTHOR    IN    NATIVE    PRESS 

THE    START    FROM    SRINAGAK 

A    NASTY    PART    OF    THE    TRACK 

COOLIES    RESTING    ON    THE    SNOW 

VILLAGE    COURT    AT    DRAS 

IIY    CARAVAN    LEAVING    LEH    . 

"  DAN    LENO,"    MY    FIRST    SUB-SURVEYOR 

THE    CHANGZOTE    OF    THE    HIMIS    MONASTERY 

LOADING    SHEEP    AT    FOBRANG 

CARAVAN    REACHING    RIMDI     . 

PIKE    RECONNOITRING 

BURNING    THE    BERTHON    BOAT 

THE    AUTHOR    RECEIVING    TIBETAN    VISI'l'ORS 

TIBETANS    BRINGING    PRESENTS 

PIKE    ISSUING    RATIONS 

A    TIBETAN    TENT  .... 

TIBETANS    SHOOTING 

THE    RECORD    OVIS    AMMON    HEAD 

SOME    OF    OUR    TIBETAN    ESCORT 

PIKE    SHOWING    CAMERA    TO    TIBETANS 

A    TYPICAL    SCENE    IN    TIBET 

LARGE    GLACIER    NEAR    THE    NABO    LA    (pASS) 

WATERLESS    CAMP    NEAR    THE    AN    LA    (PASS)  . 

CAMP    AT    PAGRIM         .... 

PIKE    QUESTIONING    TIBETANS    AT    NIAGZU       . 

SCENE    NEAR    THE    AN    LA    (PASs) 

APPROACHING    THE    ZOJI    LA 

MY    ORDERLY,    ABDUL    KARIM 

ARREST    OF    ABDUL    KHALIK    . 

MY    PATHAN    PONY    MEN 

1$AD    TRACK    IN    HUNZA 

KANJUTS    CARRYING    BAGGAGE    UP    A    PRECIPlCi: 

TOP    OF    THE    ILISU    PASS 

SCENE    IN    THE    VALLEY    OF    THE    TALDE    KOL    SI- 
HAULING    YAKS    UP    A    PRECIPICE    NEAR    THE    SANDA 
(iENERAL    VIEW    OF    THE    ASGAN    SAL    VALLEY 

PECULIAR    GEOLOGICAL    F0UM.4TI0N    IN    THE    ASGAN 

ENTRANCE    TO    THE    YAMEN    AT    YARKAND 

XV 


Fariini 


vM.    VALLEY 


Frontispiece 

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Facing       (i 

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Fdcnui 


XVI 


LIST   OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


NEW    YEAR  S    FESTIVITIES    AT    YAItKAXD 
BEATINCt    the    YUZ    BASHI    of    TIB       . 
CROSSING    THE    FROZEN    YAEKAND    RIVKl! 
A    NASTY    CORNER    FOR    CAMELS 

MR.    G.    macartney's    RECEPTION    BY    THE    INDIAN 
SCENE    IN    THE    TAKLA    MAKAN    DESERT 
TRAVELLING    IN    THE    TAKLA    JIAKAN    DESERT 
ISLAM    AKUN    IN    DISGRACE       . 
GENERAL    VIEW    OF    POLU 
A    CASE    OF    ELEPHANTIASIS     . 
TYPES    OF    LADAKI    CARAVAN    MEN 
MY   ABODE    AT    KARA    SAI  . 

LOADING    THE    DONKEYS 

VIEW    OF    KWEN    LUN    RANGE    FROM    SHOR    KUL 
GENER.AL    VIEW    OF    YEPAL    UNfiUR 
KARA    SAI    PONY    MEN 
FORDING    THE    KIRIA    RIVER    . 
TAKING  .  OBSERVATIONS    IN    CAMP 
SCENE    IN    THE    POLU    GORGE 
FEEDING    MY    FRIENDS    AT    POLL- 
TYPES    OF    YARKANDI     WOMEN 
STREET    SCENE    IN    YARKAND 

THE    BEG    OF    SARIKOL    AND    A    GROUl'    OF    lA.IIKS 
JIY    CAMP    AT    KHURAK 
A    NATIVE    BLACKSMITH 
ICE    FRINGE    ON    YARKAND    RIVER 
LOOKING     DOWN     THE    VALLEY     OF     THE    YARKAND 

OF    THE    MISGAN    JILGA  . 
BIVOUAC    AT    TARIM    BOKO 
THE    WALL    OF    YANGI    SHAHR,    YARKAND 
NATIVE    WOMEN    GOING    TO    MARKET    . 
THE    MARKET-PLACE,    KASHGAK 
STREET    SCENE    IN    KASHGAR 

GROUP    OF    YARKANDI    TRANSPORT    CONTRACTORS 
THE    CHOW-KUAN    OF    KHOTAN 
A    WATER    CARRIER    AT    KHOTAN 
DANGEROUS    DESCENT    IN    THE    POLO    GORCJE 
TYPES    OF    LADAKI    CARAVAN    MEN 
MY    CARAVAN    MEN       .... 
THE    CHOW-KUAN    OF    YARKAND 
AN    OLD    OFFENDER.    .  .  . 

A    (iROUP    OF    BEGGAl'.S 

CHINESE    SOIiDIERS    RETURNlNCi    FROM     PARADE 
SKINNING    A    yak's    HE.\D 

MAP. 

PART    OF    TIBET    AND    SIN    CHIANG 


PAGE 

130 

138 

139 

141 

■RADERS    AT    YARKAND       . 

145 

147 

.    Faciiui 

152 

155 

159 

1G3 

168 

169 

172 

175 

177 

181 

187 

.    Faciiuj 

192 

196 

198 

205 

207 

211 

215  il 
2211 

231 

IVER    FROM    THE    MOUTH 

252 

267. 

285 

288 

291 

.    luiciiifi 

292 

298 

305 

307 

.  Faciiin 

315 

316 

325 

329 

335 

337 

351 

362 

Front. 


IN    TIBET 
AND    CHINESE    TUBKESTAN 

CHAPTER  I 

Desire  to  explore — Tibet  a  good  field — Difficulties  to  be  encovmtercd 
— Object  of  expedition — Preparations  in  Srinagar — Goodbye  to 
Trench — Crossing  the  Zoji  La — Matayan — Journey  to  Leh — 
Arranging  the  caravan — Departure  from  Leh — Visit  to  Hiniis 
Monastery — Crossing  the  Chang  La — Hired  transport — Fobrang 
— Final  preparations — The  Marseniik  La  Chang  Chennio — Cross- 
ing the  frontier — Entering  unknown  land — Without  guides — 
Conuiiencement  of  triangulation — Horpa  or  Gurnien  Cho — Mag- 
nificent snow  mountains — Lhitrained  assistants — Our  first  yak — ■ 
Yeshil  Kul — No  water — "  Fever  Camp." 

~r  HAD  long  entertained  the  desire  to  travel  in  some 
-■-  unknown  country,  and  in  the  spring  of  1896,  when 
circumstances  were  favourable,  the  wish  was  transformed 
into  a  settled  purpose.  The  vast  extent  of  the  territory 
marked  "  unexplored  "  on  the  map  of  Tibet,  then  recently 
published,  at  once  attracted  me,  and  it  was  to  this  inhos- 
pitable and  almost  inaccessible  land  that  I  resolved  to 
proceed.  My  efforts  had  already  been  devoted  to  the 
study  of  the  appliances  which  are  indispensable  to  tlie 
explorer.  Kemembering  Sir  Eichard  Burton's  warning 
that  travel  in  unknown  lands  is  mere  waste  of  time 
unless  the  traveller  has  suitable  instruments  and  skill  to 

2  1 


2       IN   TIBET  AND    CHINESE    TURKESTAN. 

use  them,  I  had  sought  to  acquire  the  requisite  know- 
ledge. In  1893,  when  home  on  sick  leave  from  India,  I 
had  begun  the  study  of  astronomy  and  surveying  under 
the  guidance  of  Mr.  Coles  of  the  Eoyal  Geographical 
Society.  On  several  voyages  to  and  from  India  I  was 
able,  by  the  kindness  of  many  of  the  P.  and  0.  Company's 
officers,  to  practise  regularly  the  taking  of  sights  at  sea. 
At  the  Trigonometrical  Branch  of  the  Survey  of  India, 
Dehra  Dun,  I  devoted  some  time  to  these  studies  under 
Colonel  St.  G.  C.  Gore,  R.E.,  to  whom  I  am  deeply 
indebted  for  valuable  instruction  and  assistance. 

To  determine  the  probable  error  in  longitude  arrived  at 
from  observations  of  moon  culminating  stars,  a  method 
of  ascertaining  longitude  not  the  best,  but  the  next  best, 
irrespective  of  all  but  local  time,  I  took  two  series  of 
observations  with  a  six-inch  transit  theodolite,  one  series 
by  the  kind  permission  of  the  Astronomer  Eoyal  at  the 
lioyal  Observatory,  Greenwich,  and  the  second  at  Luck- 
now,  where  I  was  quartered  for  some  time.  These 
observations,  but  especially  those  taken  at  Greenwich, 
proved  of  very  great  value,  and  I  was  able  to  judge  with 
close  approximation  what  degree  of  accuracy  might  be 
expected.  The  result  of  live  nights'  work  at  Greenwich 
gave  an  error  of  less  than  one  second,  and  the  error  at 
Lucknow  was  about  five  seconds  of  time. 

Besides  learning  astronomy  and  surveying,  I  devoted 
much  time  to  the  study  both  of  the  theory  and  the  prac- 
tice of  medicine  and  surgery,  for,  to  my  regret,  I  knew 
very  little  about  them. 

The  south-eastern  part  of  the  great  Central  Asian 
plateau,  known  to  Ladakis  and  Tibetans  as  Chang 
Tang,  and  to  Europeans  as  Tibet,  presents  an  enormous 
field  for  exploration  and  surveying,  but  no  portion  of 
Asia  is  more  difficult  to  penetrate,  and,  owing  to  the 
intense  dislike  of  the  natives  to  strangers,  the  difficultv  of 


DIFFICULTIES    TO    BE   OVERCOME.  3 

entering  is  exceeded  by  that  of  remaining,  even  for  a 
short  time,  within  the  country.- 

To  show  the  conditions  under  which,  to  be  successful, 
a  lengthy  journey  into  the  little  known  land  of  the  Lamas 
must  be  prosecuted,  it  will  not  be  superfluous  to  mention 
some  of  the  difficulties  which  must  be  overcome.  Con- 
sidered separately,  the  most  serious  are  those  of  obtaining 
transport,  supplies,  guides,  and  trustworthy  men,  but 
these  and  many  others  are  included  in  the  fact  that  the 
journey  lies  through  an  uninhabited  country. 

Transport  must  be  purchased,  as  no  natives  of  any 
adjoining  country  will  provide  animals  for  more  than  a 
few  marches  across  the  frontier.  The  best  beasts  of 
burden  for  Tibet  are  undoubtedly  the  sheep  of  the 
country  or  of  Ladak.  If  in  good  condition  at  starting, 
and  in  charge  of  a  man  who  knows  his  business,  they 
will  carry  loads  of  about  22  lbs.  for  a  long  time,  but  they 
must  not  be  hustled,  nor  driven  more  than  twelve  or 
fourteen  miles  daily,  and  they  should  have  at  least  one 
day's  rest  every  week.  Sheep  do  not  require  either  corn 
or  shoes,  which  must  be  carried  for  all  other  animals,  of 
which  the  small,  sturdy  mule  from  Chang  Tang  is  the 
best,  donkeys  ranking  next,  and  the  hardy,  small,  thick- 
set pony  of  Tibet,  Ladak,  Kashmir,  or  Turkestan,  a  good 
third.  Suitable  animals  are  not  -  always  easily  purchased 
in  Kashmir,  while  in  Chinese  Turkestan  it  is  most 
difficult  and  tedious  to  obtain  them,  even  at  fancy  prices. 

An  equally  important  matter  is  the  provisioning  of  the 
caravan.  In  the  present  state  of  affairs  it  is  absolutely 
necessary  to  keep  to  the  uninhabited  country,  and,  if  the 
journey  is  to  be  a  long  one,  the  supplies  must  include  not 
only  food  for  the  men  for  some  months,  but  grain  for  the 
animals  as  well.  Owing  to  the  great  elevation,  only 
those  who  are  accustomed  to  hard  work  in  rarefied  air 
should  be  engaged  as  caravan  men.    For  caravan  work  the 


4      /X    riBET  AND    CHINESE    TURKESTAN. 

Arguns  of  Ladak  are  most  suitable,  bein<f  iiniiieasurably 
superior  to  the  natives  of  Turkestan.  The  hitter,  being 
unused  to  the  conditions  of  Hfe  at  great  altitudes,  are,  in 
general,  easily  exhausted.  Excellent  as  Arguns  are  for  this 
service  under  very  trying  conditions,  nearly  all  of  them  are 
utterly  devoid  of  courage  of  the  combative  sort.  In  the 
midst  of  difficulties  arising  from  the  nature  of  the  ground 
they  do  their  work  most  admirably,  undergoing  hardship) 
and  exposure  without  a  murmur,  but  when  trouble  is 
caused  by  liuman  enemies  they  are  simply  helpless. 
Ninety-nine  out  of  a  hundred  Arguns  if  attacked  will 
neither  fight  nor  make  the  slightest  show  of  resistance. 

Doubtless  many  inhabitants  of  the  country  near  the 
frontier  are  intimately  acquainted  with  the  principal 
routes  from  their  neighbourhood  into  Tibet,  but  so  great 
is  the  dread  of  the  Pombos,  or  headmen  of  Tibet,  who 
with  their  assistants  threaten  vengeance  against  all  who 
guide  strangers  into  the  Chang,  and  even  against  the 
relations  of  such  guides,  that  every  one  denies  all  know- 
ledge of  the  country.    , 

A  journey  without  guides  through  an  unknown  country 
represented  on  the  map  merely  by  a  blank  space,  becomes 
more  dit'ticuh  and  trying  wlien  the  region  is  without  in- 
habitants. There  the  traveller  is  at  the  mercy  of  acci- 
dents. Provisions  may  fail,  w^ater  may  be  unattainable, 
animals  may  die  or  be  lost,  disease  may  invade  the 
caravan,  and  any  one  of  these  calamities  might  be  fatal 
to  the  expedition.  On  the  other  hand,  if  inhabitants 
were  encountered  at  an  early  stage  of  our  journey  into 
Tibet,  our  advance  would  certiiinly  l)e  stopped.  A  route 
had  therefore  U)  be  chosen  where  none  would  be  found. 
The  general  object  of  my  first  expedition  was  to  explore 
and  survey,  as  accurately  as  time  and  circumstances 
would  permit,  an  extent  of  country  on  either  side  of  a 
route  which  was  to  be  distant  from  the  routes  of  other 


PRFJWR.lTfOXS    fX   SRfXA(;AR.  5 

travellers.  The  only  way  by  which  I  could  confidently 
rely  upon  enterinf,^  Tibet  without  opposition  was  via 
Ladak  and  the  Lanak  Pass. 

At  Srinagar,  Pike  and  I  were  the  guests  of  the  hospit- 
able Captain  G.  Chenevix-Trench,  and  our  time  was  fully 
occupied  with  the  necessary  prepara.tions.  Here  we  were 
provided  with  travelling  outfit  for  ourselves,  for  the  sub- 
surveyor,  and  for  two  orderlies  from  tlie  1st  P>attalion  of 


iiAin    ii;iiM   SKIN  \(.Ai;. 


the  '2nd  Gurkha  regiment.  The  /oji  La,  a  nHich-di-ead(Ml 
pass  where  the  loads  would  have-  to  be  carried  by  the 
coolies,  was  not  far  ahead,  and,  in  packing  the  Yak  dans 
and  making  up  the  bundles,  it  was  necessary  to  limit  their 
weight.  The  maximum  which  a  coolie  would  attempt  to 
carry  over  the  pass  was  50  lbs.,  but  we  had  a  Berthon 
duplex  collapsible  boat,  and  also  loads  of  ammunition, 
which  could  not  be  l)rou'2ht  within   this  reuulation   maxi- 


6      /X   TIBET  AXD    CHIXESR    TURKESTAN. 

iiniiii.  For  the  transport  of  these  we  therefore  provided 
carriers  in  numbers  proportioned  to  the  weight.  After 
many  busy  days  these  and  sundry  other  matters  were  duly 
arranged,  and,  having  said  goodbye  to  Trench,  whose 
assistance  I  shall  always  gratefully  remember,  we  were 
paddled  across  the  pretty  Dal  Lake  to  its  western  shore, 
wdiere  our  march  began. 

We  soon  left  behind  us  the  picturesque  Scind  Valley 
and  approached  the  Zoji  La.  Although  the  pass  is  only 
11,500  feet  high,  it  is  by  no  means  easy  to  cross, 
especially  in  spring  and  early  summer,  when  destructive 
avalanches  are  not  infrequent.  At  Baltal  we  entered  the 
large  rest-house  which  had  recently  been  erected  for 
travellers,  and  which  contained  ample  accommodation  for 
coolies.  It  was  our  purpose  to  attempt  the  pass  during 
the  night,  for  then  the  snow  would  be  comparatively 
firm.  To  be  ready  to  set  out  in  a  few  hours,  I  lay 
down  on  a  bundle  of  pine  branches  which  served  to  keep 
me  off  the  wet  and  muddy  floor.  I  was  eagerly  alert  and 
watchful  for  the  light  of  the  moon  which  was  to  show  us 
our  way.  The  coolies,  over  one  hundred  in  number,  had 
agreed  to  the  nocturnal  march,  and  as  soon  as  the  light 
was  sufficient  I  called  them  to  set  out.  Nothing  would 
now  induce  them  to  move,  the  excuse  being  that  it  was 
forbidden  by  one  of  the  great  gods  of  India,  "  Dustour  " 
(custom),  to  start  before  four  o'clock  in  the  morning. 

About  that  hour  they  began  to  move,  though  the 
weather  looked  very  bad.  and  there  was  but  little  moon- 
light. The  long  march,  entirely  through  deep,  soft  snow, 
w^as  trying,  and  it  was  not  till  late  in  the  evening  that  w^e 
were  able  to  refresh  ourselves  with  tea  at  Matayan.  There 
a  small  rest-house  had  been  built,  containing  only  one 
room,  and  that  large  enough  to  hold  only  four  beds. 
The  place  was  cheerless  and  bare,  and  could  afford  us 
nothing  but  a  little  firewood. 


^6W 


A    CRUEL    CUSTOM.  7 

The  journey  to  Leh  was  marked  by  one  unpleasant 
event,  a  slight  attack  of  sunstroke  from  which  Pike 
suffered  owing  to  insufficient  protection  from  the  sun, 
and  by  troublesome  mules,  many  of  which  showed  great 
dislike  of  their  loads. 

The  mules  and  ponies,  the  former  in  excellent  condi- 
tion, had  met  us  a  few  marches  from  Leh,  and  I  at  once 


COOLIES    RESTINfi    ON    THE    SNOW. 


set  myself  against  the  absurd  and  cruel  habit  in  vogue  in 
Turkestan,  and  seen  also  in  Ladak,  of  tying  up  animals 
without  food  or  water  for  some  hours  after  a  march,  and 
of  watering  soon  after  feeding.  On  this  subject  Kamzan, 
who,  I  believe,  had  been  a  tailor,  but  had  now  blossomed 
out  into  a  bashi,  or  head  of  a  caravan,  received  strict 
orders,  which  he  repeated  to  me,  and,  apparently,  clearly 
understood,  but  the  moment  my  back  was  turned  and  the 


8       IN    TIHET  AND   CHINESE    TURKESTAN. 

nosebags  taken  off,  he  commenced  watering  the  animals, 
a  proceeding  which  provoked  me  to  pkiin,  rather  than 
poHte  words. 

Thanks  to  the  good  services  of  Bishan  Dass,  the  Wazir 
of  Ladak,  we  were  enabled  to  get,  without  trouble,  the 
large  quantity  of  supplies  which  we  required.  This 
ofticial,  as  indeed  all  of  the  Kashmir  State,  with  the 
exception  of   the  Governor  of  Srinagar,  rendered  us    in 


VILLAGE    COUKT    AT    DKAS. 


many  ways  invaluable  assistance,  for  which  I  am  much 
indebted. 

While  at  Leh  all  the  loads  had  to  be  rearranged  and 
weighed,  and  their  contents  carefully  catalogued  ;  flour, 
rice,  bread,  ghee,  barley,  suttoo  (theoretically,  ground 
parched  barley,  but  practically,  often  adulterated  with 
sand,  <.l'c.,  indigestible  even  to  Ladakis),  and  many  sets  of 
horse  shoes  and  nails  had  to  be  bought,  packed  up, 
weighed,  sealed,  and  catalogued. 


DEPARTURE   FRO. If   LEU. 


Here  also  we  had  to  enga^^^e  some  fresh  caravan  men. 
We  could  not  give  precise  information  as  to  our  destination 
and,  consequently,  some  who  had  formerly  been  willing 
to  accompany  us,  now  said  that  their  health,  or  the  health 
of  their  relations  required  them  to  remain  at  home.  In 
Ladak  a  traveller  collecting  a  large  caravan  is  supposed 
to  have  in  view  either  a  journey  to  Yarkand,  or  an  attempt 
to  reach  Lhasa.    A  denial  of  the  former  purpose  is  equiva- 


'^r^st| 


MY    CAKAV.VN    LEAVING    LEH. 


lent  to  an  admission  of  the  latter,  whilt>  no  statement 
respecting  any  third  course  seems  worth  considering. 
Men  who  have  been  tempted  by  the  prospect  of  good  pay, 
seldom  refuse  to  run  the  risk  of  involving  themselves 
or  their  friends  in  pains  and  penalties  for  the  sake  of  a- 
stranger.  Those  also  of  our  men  who  were  less  in  dread 
of  the  Tibetans,  naturally  wished  to  know  where  we  were 
going.  As  we  ourselves  did  not  know,  we  could  not  tell 
them,    and,    to   compensate    for   the   vagueness    of    our 


lo    IN   TIBET  AND    CHINESE    TURKESTAN 

purpose,  our  promises  of  pay  and  of  backsheesh  had  to 
be  clear  and  lar^e. 

All  the  ponies  purchased  for  us  prior  to  our  arrival  in 
Leh  were  in  very  poor  condition,  vi^hile  some  of  them 
were  so  old  as  to  be  of  but  little  value.  The  mules  had 
been  very  well  looked  after  during  the  winter,  and  were 
in  excellent  condition.     So  fresh  were  they  that  for  the 


"  1>.VX    I.ENO,"    ilY    FIltST    srr.-SUliVKYOK. 


first  few  marches,  even  when  fully  loaded,  it  was 
absolutely  necessary  for  each  one  to  be  led. 

After  a  couple  of  postponements,  due  to  convenient 
"hurrah  dins,"  or  holy  days  (literally,  big  days),  no 
doubt  arranged  for  the  occasion,  and  to  excuses  from 
nearly  all  the  men,  the  caravan  at  length,  on  May  '25th, 
set  out  from  Leh  amidst  a  scene  of  great  excitement. 

The  cavalcade,  which  was  of  imposing  extent,  was  in 
charge  of    the   sub-surveyor,   S- D ,  whom  Pike 


VISIT   TO   HIM  IS   MONASTERY.  ii 

familiarly  called  "  Dan  Leno,"  a  name  to  which,  even 
when  abbreviated  to  "Leno,"  he  readily  answered. 

Unfortunately,  the  best  of  the  two  Ghurka  orderlies 
was  suffering  from  remittent  fever.  To  take  him  further 
was  out  of  the  question,  and  though  the  poor  fellow 
pleaded  hard  and  burst  into  tears  of  disappointment,  he 
had  to  be  left  at  Leh  in  charge  of  the  doctor,  who  was 
enjoined  to  send  him  back  to  his  regiment  as  soon  as  he 
was  fit  to  travel. 

The  Chang  La,  a  very  high  pass  on  the  direct  route 
between  Leh  and  the  Pangkong  Lake,  being  still 
impracticable  for  animals,  a  large  part  of  the  caravan  had 
to  make  a  long  detour,  and  Pike  and  I  had  time  to  visit 
the  celebrated  Himis  Monastery  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  Indus. 

The  Changzote,  or  head  lama,  honoured  us  by  coming 
to  meet  us  a  few  miles  from  the  establishment,  where  tea, 
chang,  &c.,  were  offered  us. 

Tea  is  no  doubt  an  excellent  social  beverage,  and  very 
refreshing,  but  the  concoction  which  was  presented 
under  the  guise  of  tea  was  unworthy  of  the  name.  It 
was  a  preparation  of  twigs  and  dirt  with  a  few  tea-leaves 
thrown  in  ;  the  mixture  is  first  well  boiled,  then  improved 
by  the  addition  of  ghee,  salt,  and  milk,  and  finally  churned. 
At  the  risk  of  giving  offence,  I  disclaimed  the  love  of  tea 
and  expressed  a  decided  preference  for  chang  or  even 
water.  Chang  is  a  drink  made  from  barley,  and  is  said 
to  be  an  intoxicant,  but,  though  I  have  often  drunk  it,  I 
never  could  get  any  "  forrarder  "  from  it. 

I  shall  make  no  attempt  to  describe  the  Monastery, 
which  abler  pens  than  mine  have  already  made  familiar  to 
readers  of  books  of  travel. 

Having  recrossed  the  Indus  we  spent  the  night  at 
Zingral  in  a  wretched  shelter,  called  a  serai,  about 
1,400    feet  below   the    top    of   the    Chang    La.       Up    to 


12    /.y  TiiiiiT  A\n  L'/i/x/'.s/-:  riKK/isywN. 

this  point  we  had  been  able  to  bring  riding  ponies,  l)ut 
had  now  to  continue  the  ascent  on  foot.  With  the 
prospect  of  a  long  and  tiring  march  across  the  pass,  we 
set  out  at  about  two  o'clock  in  the  morning  from  the 
insect-infested  room,  which  ovidontlv  had  often  served  as 


IIANl./n|  l: 


n     I II I    III \\\~ 


M"\  \'- 1  l:K^ . 


a  stable,  and  in  about  two  hours  we  reached  the  summit. 
Fortunately  the  morning  was  not  very  dark,  and  although 
there  was  a  moderate  fall  of  snow  from  about  3  a.m. 
we  were  generally  al)le  to  keep  to  the  track  made  Ijy  the 
coolies,  eventually  reachint,^  the  village  of  Durguk  about 
eleven  in  the  forenoon. 


FINAL   PREPARATIONS.  15 

The  rest-houses  in  these  parts  are  a  great  convenience 
to  travellers,  but  might  easily  be  improved.  Doubtless 
they  are  liable  to  abuse  at  times,  but  there  are  permanent 
causes  of  discomfort  which  might  be  removed.  For  the 
insect  plague  there  is  probably  no  remedy,  but,  on  a  hill- 
slope,  the  construction  of  a  dry  floor  and  a  chimney  with 
sufticient  draught  to  carry  up  the  smoke  seems  not  im- 
practicable. To  the  natives  the  warmth  of  the  smoke 
from  the  green  fuel  on  the  hearth  compensates  for  its 
pungency,  but  my  eyes  never  became  habituated  to  the 
discomfort. 

At  Fobrang,  a  tiny  village  of  about  half  a  dozen  houses, 
at  an  altitude  of  about  14,800  feet,  probably  the  highest 
cultivated  place  in  the  world,  we  halted  for  some  days  to 
await  the  arrival  of  the  caravan.  Here  we  obtained  the 
last  instalment  of  the  supplies  which  our  good  friend 
liishan  Dass  had  collected  for  us ;  we  also  purchased 
sheep  for  transport  purposes,  and  arranged  for  carriers  to 
go  on  ahead  with  the  sheep  by  easy  stages  as  far  as  the 
Lanak  La,  on  the  west  side  of  which  they  would  lind 
grass. 

When  our  preparations  were  complete  the  caravan,  all 
told,  consisted  of  Pike  and  myself,  Leno  (the  sub-surveyor), 
Ixassoula  (cook),  one  Ghurka  orderly,  two  sikhs,  Dass 
(cool';  foi'  tlic  lliiidiis),  Ivanizan  (caravan  baslii),  ten 
caravan  men,  and  one  shepherd,  besides  the  carriers  who 
were  sent  on  in  front  with  the  sheep.  The  transport 
animals  comprised  twenty-seven  mules,  thirty-five  ponies, 
and  fifty  sheep,  but  there  were  among  us  also  three  riding 
ponies  and  a  donkey,  a  very  fine  one,  which  had  been 
given  to  Eassoula.  The  nniles  were  said  to  be  Chinese, 
but  their  native  land  was  (l()iil)iriil  :  ilic  ponies  were  from 
Kargil,  Zanskar.  and  Ladak;  two  of  the  riding  ponies 
were  from  Badakshan,  the  other  and  the  donkey  from 
Yarkand.       Our     baggage     contained     personal     effects, 


i6    /.y  riiiirr  Axn  ciii.xr.sr.   tcrkhstax. 

uiuiiiunitiun,  tents,  medicines,  instruments,  cooking' 
utensils,  money,  and  various  articles  which,  if  necessary, 
mif^'ht  be  ^iven  as  presents.  ]jut  food  supplies  formed 
the  most  burdensome  part  of  our  e(|uipment.  These  con- 
sisted chiefly  of  grain,  Ijread,  and  tinned  meats.  We  had 
<S,650  lbs.  of  partially  crushed  barley,  1,480  lbs.  of  attali, 
J,"20(>  lbs.  of  Kusta  or  Ladak  bread,  which  keeps  well  for 
mouths,  (J'iU  lbs.  of  rice,  and  1,810  lbs.  of  Suttoo.  The 
tinned  meats,  instruments,  money,  ko,.,  were  packed  in 
yak  dans,  while  Suttoo,  attah,  rice,  and  Kusta  were  put 
into  sacks  made  of  Baxter  Brothers'  water-proof  canvas. 
Every  yak  dan,  box,  sack,  and  package  was  weighed  and 
nundjered,  and  the  weight  recorded  in  the  catalogue. 
Yak  dans  were  padlocked,  one  key  opening  all ;  sacks 
were  sealed  with  leaden  seals  so  that  no  one  could  open 
them  in  our  absence  without  detection.  The  total  weight 
of  baggage  and  stores  was  about  17,000  lbs.,  or  more  than 
six  and  a  half  tons,  an  appalling  amount  to  be  loaded  and 
unloaded  daily,  especially  as  the  Ladaki  caravan  men  are 
undoubtedly  very  bad  packers.  But  we  carried  nothing 
which  could  be  dispensed  with,  and  as  a  large  portion  of 
the  food  supplies  was  for  the  animals  the  weight  would 
rapidly  diminish. 

We  had  a  choice  of  two  rcjutes  from  Fobrang  t(j  Lanak 
Ija,  one  by  the  An  La,  Xiagzu,  and  Kieuns  La,  the  other 
by  the  Marsemik  La,  Pamzal,  and  Kyam.  The  former 
seemed  preferable  for  several  reasons  :  it  was  considered 
to  be  the  easier ;  it  was  not,  as  the  Marsemik  was  reported 
to  be,  blocked  with  snow;  and,  lastly,  part  of  this  route, 
in  particular  the  An  La,  was  not  mapped.  But  just  as 
we  were  about  to  start,  we  learned  that  for  some  distance 
in  this  direction  water  was  very  scarce  ;  we  knew  also 
that  two  officers  of  the  liifle  Brigade  had  recently  crossed 
the  Marsemik,  and,  on  the  whole,  it  seemed  the  more 
prudent   course   to    follow    the    latter    route.      We   en- 


THE    MARSEMIK    LA    CIIAXC    CIIIiXMO.     19 

deavourcd  to  obtain  yiiks  t(j  relieve  oui"  own  animals  in 
crossing  the  snow-covered  pass,  but,  being  unsuccessful, 
had  to  put  all  the  baggage  on  the  mules  and  ponies. 

Having  completed  our  arrangements  we  set  out  on 
June  9th  from  Fobrang,  the  last  village  w^e  should  see 
for  nearly  five  months.  The  ascent  of  the  Marsemik  was 
accomplished  with  ease,  for  the  few  patches  of  frozen 
snow  which  had  to  be  crossed  presented  no  obstacle,  and 
we  hoped  to  be  abl(>  the  same  day  to  reach  IJiiiidi.  where 
we  should  find  a  resting  place.  J3ut  the  descent  on  the 
eastern  slope  was  very  difhcult.  The  snow  was  deep  and 
soft,  almost  impassable  for  our  heavy-laden  animals.  At 
first  the  leaders  went  on  without  mishap,  bat  the  mules 
and  ponies  behind  soon  began  to  stray  from  the  track  and 
to  flounder  about  most  distressingly-r  In  a  short  time 
they  were  struggling  to  free  themselves  from  their  en- 
cumbrances ;  the  baggage  was  scattered  about  in  the 
snow  in  all  directions,  and  scarcely  an  animal  was  carry- 
ing its  load.  The  Arguns  worked  hard  and  did  their  best, 
but  it  was  evident  that  all  thoughts  of  pushing  on  the 
caravan  to  liimdi  that  day  must  be  abandoned.  This 
was  my  first  experience  of  the  atmospheric  conditions  at 
a  great  altitude,  and  T  was  phj'sically  unable  to  render 
much  assistance.  I  suffered  from  a  severe  headache, 
which  continued  till  we  reached  a  considerably  lower 
level,  but  tlic  caraviin  men  seemed  to  siitTer  ik*  ineon- 
venience   whatever  from  the   rarefaction   of  the  air. 

Tents,  bedding,  and  some  cooking  utensils  having  been 
collected  and  placed  on  (lie  backs  of  tlie  ainmals  wliii-h 
seemed  least  exhausted.  I'ike  and  1.  acconn)anied  i)y 
Leno  and  the  servants.  \\v\\^  able  in  ((Uitiinie  the  descent. 
The  soft  snow  reached  to  the  ^irlhs  of  the  mules,  but  we 
pusluMl  on  and.  hitc  m  the  afternoon,  found  th(>  spot 
called  Kimdi.  a  fairly  IcncI  piece  of  stony  ground  with 
a  scanty  sup})ly  of  grass,      l-'or  cooking  we  could   tiiid   no 


20   /.\'  Tiiinr  Axn  ciiixr.sr.   rrRKEsr.w. 

luel  (.■xct.'[it  clun^^  l)Ut  this  SL'iiiicil  to  provide  I  lie  iiicaiis 
of  luxury  when  wo  contrasted  our  position  with  that  of 
the  cjreater  portion  (if  the  caravan,  compelled  to  s])cii<l 
the  nif^ht  on  the  cokl,  hare,  and  \vinds\vc]>t  slope  not  far 
from  the  top  of  the  pass. 

As  soon  as  the  caravan  could  be  collected  we  resumed 
our  march  to  the  Lanak  La.  On  the  west  side  of  tlie 
pass  we  halted  for  a  day  to  rest  the  sheep,  and  allow  the 
animals  to  have  a  tj^ood  feed  after  the  very  scanty  grazing 
they  had  found  in  Chang  C'heiniio. 

In  the  night  between  the  KUh  and  ITtli  of  -linic  the 
thermometer  fell  to  8°  Fahr.  at  an  altitude  of  17. 1')0  feet, 
or  only  500  feet  lower  than  the  Lanak  Tja,  which  was  (piite 
free  from  snow  when  we  crossed  it  on  the  Lsth. 

This  pass  was  an  easy  one,  but  as  to  the  country 
beyond  I  now  felt  some  anxiety.  We  knew  that  Bower, 
Dalgleish,  Carey  and  De  lihins,  and  possibly  one  or  two 
other  Europeans,  had  been  over  the  ground,  but  the  only 
maps  we  possessed  were  on  too  small  a  scale  to  be  of 
mucli  assistance.  ]^>eyond  the  pass  there  was  no  track. 
Our  predecessors  had  come  and  gone,  but  the  country 
bore  no  evidence  that  any  traveller  had  ever  passed  that 
way.  I'ike  had  marvellous  skill  in  finding  tlie  track  of 
animals,  but  he  could  not  discover  a  vestige  of  the  visit  of 
any  human  being. 

After  leaving  Camp '2,  Shum,  the  men  who  came  with 
tlie  hired  transport  from  1^'obrang  professed  ignorance  of 
the  route,  so  that  I'ike  and  1  had  to  guide  the  caravan 
through  an  unknown  land.  On  the  second  day  after 
crossing  the  frontier  at  the  Lanak  La  we  passed  into  a 
long,  broad,  and  well-watered  valley,  to  the  east  of  which, 
we  knew,  lay  Horj)a  or  (Tuninii  Clio,  but  beyond  this 
we  had  no  definite  knowledge  of  the  ctjuntry. 

My  ])lan  was  to  visit  the  north  side  of  Horpa  or 
Gurmen  Cho,  Captain  J^ower  having  gone  by  the  opposite 


COM. ]//■:. \ L  !■:.]/ /■\/    ()/■     TR/.WCC/.AT/iW.    2\ 

side,  tlu'ii  to  li;ivi!l  in  iiii  castrrly  direction,  avoiding' 
fjround  which  had  heen  visited  by  others,  and  to  survey 
a  tract  of  country  on  cither  side  of  the  line  of  march. 

In  order  to  wt  a  jjiood  vahie  for  the  lon<ritude  of  as 
many  places  as  possil)U',  I  had  connnenced,  at  Camp  '6, 
trianffuhition  from  a  veiy  prominent  snow  pi'ak,  desig- 
nated Mangtza  Lake  No.  1  Peak,  which  had  been  fixed 
by  the  Great  Trigonometrical  Survey  of  India,  and  tor 
the  same  purpose  I  now  halted  close  to  Horpa  or 
Gurmen  Cho. 

The  theory  of  determining  longitude  Ijy  triangulation 
is  simple  enough,  but  the  practical  work  is  not  always 
easy.  Owing  to  my  want  of  j)rovious  training  in  the  field. 
T  found  it  dillicult  to  identify  peaks  seen  from  various 
])ositions,  and  to  remember  the  exact  ]K)ints  that  had 
Imi  II  fiist  observed  in  the  peaks.  The  work  was  retarded 
also  by  the  want  of  trained  assistants. 

For  the  accurate  measurement  of  base  lines  and 
angles,  it  was  necessary  to  erect  pillars  on  prominent 
hill  tops  from  which  both  ends  of  tlie  base  as  well  as  the 
surroun<]ing  country  and  other  hill  stations  could  be  seen. 
But  the  men  appointed  to  erect  them  preferred  the  slopes 
of  the  hills  to  the  sunniiits,  th.ough  the  suitable  jMiint  was 
often  only  a  few  hundred  yards  distant.  Their  [)ri>- 
ferencc  could  not  in  evi-ry  case  be  d(>tected  before  1 
reached  the  spot  ;  consequently  nmcli  laixuii-  had  to  be 
repeated,  and  the  work  was  ri'udert'd  unnei-essarily 
complicated. 

Ascending  the  small  valley  which  riuis  into  the  north- 
east side  of  llorjta  Cho.  w<'  crossed  rising  ground  and 
entered  a  broad  valKy,  lioimdcd  on  ihc  south  by  a  rangt* 
of  high  mountains  with  iiroiinnciit  snow  peaks,  most 
useful  in  surveying.  <  )n  the  north  side  of  this  valley 
weri^  comiiai'atively  low  mountains,  none  of  them  snow- 
capped, and  through  a  gap.  barely  worthy  of  being  desig- 


22   IX  rimrr  .wn  ciiixusn  ri'RKiisi.w. 

nutt'il  ii  pass,  we  i'ntt'rt'<l  tlu'  di-prcssioii  in  which  lies  the 
salt  lake  known  as  Yeshil  Kul.  Close  to  this  gap  were 
copious  springs  ol"  good  water  and  excellent  grass,  the 
place  being  evidently  a  favourite  haunt  of  a  few  wild  yak, 
one  of  which  Pike  bagged.  While  assisting  to  skin  and 
cut  u[)  the  carcase,  not  forgetting  the  marrow  bones, 
which  are  far  superior  to  those  of  any  tame  animal,  1  was 
much  pressed  by  some  of  the  caravan  men  to  shoot 
another  yak  close  by,  apparently  not  in  the  least  alarmed. 
We  had  already  more  meat  than  we  could  carry,  and 
to  prevent  the  wanton  destruction  of  the  animal  by  the 
Arguns  I  fired  some  shots  close  to  him,  and  at  length 
he  galloped  in  safety  over  an  adjacent  ridge. 

Not  knowing  that  the  Yeshil  Kul  was  salt,  and  not 
finding  any  traces  of  other  water  in  the  neighbourhood, 
we  camped  as  near  to  the  south-east  corner  of  tlie  lake  as 
the  very  soft,  white,  saline  mud  permitted.  Being 
disappointed  with  the  water  we  tried  digging,  but  no 
success  attended  our  efforts,  and  we  had  to  fall  back 
upon  the  limited  supply  in  our  water  bottles.  As  luck 
would  have  it,  1  was  unusually  thirsty  and  fatigued  that 
night.  Next  day  I  felt  slack,  and  by  the  time  we  had 
settled  to  campclo.se  to  a  few  damp  spots  which  betokened 
the  presence  of  water  I  had  not  enough  energy  to  take 
my  share  in  the  digging.  I'lke  was  very  energetic  and 
persevering,  but,  much  as  I  tried  to  assist  him,  I  was 
absolutely  unfit  for  work.  As  soon  as  the  tents  were 
pitched  I  retired  to  mine,  to  make  use  of  a  clinical 
thermometer,  knowing  that  if  my  temperature  was  above 
normal,  I  might  look  out  for  squalls,  but  if  not,  I 
might  rest  assured  that  I  was  not  seriously  unwell.  As 
my  temperature  proved  to  be  about  104°,  I  thought  it  wise 
to  betake  myself  to  my  bed,  having  made  a  note  in  my 
journal  that  "  Fever  Camp  "  would  be  by  no  means  an 
inappropriate  name  for  this  exposed,  bleak,  and  cheerless 
spot . 


(•irvrTiiK  II 

Serious  and  lij^ht  literature — Death  of  animals — Excursion  of  Leno — 
Bad  water — Reco\erv — "Weakness — Continuing  the  journev — 
Observing  under  difficulties — Thousands  of  antelopes — Recon- 
noitring— Sickness — Barren  and  waterless  country — Economising 
candles — Anotiier  route  decided  upon — Lazy  caravan  men — Tame 
antelope — Deatli  of  Tike's  pony — '*  Daily  "  stream — Fertile  valley 
— Difficulty  of  linding  a  ford — Aru  Cho — Death  of  my  riding 
pony — Illness  of  Sanman — Animals  straying — Caravan  men 
suspected — Robbed  by  Chukpas. 

\  T  the  best,  fever  is  disagreeable,  and  our  bleak, 
-^-*-  exposed  position  close  to  a  salt  lake,  in  a  eouiitry 
almost  desert  and  many  miles  from  any  iidial)itants, 
rendered  it  still  more  so.  I  had  an  aiii|ile  stock  ol' 
medicines,  but  oidy  sul'fieii'nt  knowled^^e  ot  their  use 
to  reco{i;nise  that  1  knew  very  little  about  the  lu-alin^ 
art.  Pike's  medical  skill  was  less  tiian  mine,  so  1  had 
to  doctor  myself.  J^'or  tlu!  fh'st  couple  ot  days  1  was 
doubtlul  as  to  the  malady  that  had  attacked  me,  but. 
havin<;  carefully  consulted  that  excellent  medical  work 
for  laymen.  '"  Moore's  i"'amily  Medicine  for  India,"  1 
diagnosed  my  case,  and  having,  as  I  belii'ved,  adopted 
the  proper  remedies.  1  was  only  too  glad  to  do  nothing 
except  occasionally  to  see1\  relief  from  the  languor  of  the 
fever  in  such  light  reading  as  our  stores  could  supply, 
viz.,  "  Whitaker's  Almanac  "  and  a  six))enny  encyclopa-dia. 
In  consequence  of  exposure  to  very  bad  wi-ather  some  t)f 


-M     /y    mil:  I    AM)    CIIIXF.SE     /  (  I<  K  l:S'/\\  \. 

the  funivuii  nan  hccanu'  unwell  too,  and  lunl  to  be 
doctored,  and  six  ponies  and  liassoula's  line  donkey  died 
befcn-e  we  were  able  to  depart  from  "  Fever  C;inip." 
l^urin^'  the  enforced  halt,  a  waste  of  very  precious  time, 
Leno  went  otf  on  a  short  excursion  tor  topo<,fraphical 
Work,  which  he  was  able  to  check  a  little  by  the  few 
latitu<les  which  he  observed.  It  was  very  seldom  that 
he  had  an  opportunity  of  observinfj,  as,  unless  my  eyes 
weiv  weak.  I  invariably  did  the  astronomical  work  mysell. 
althou^di  Leno  was  well  trained  and  very  accurate,  and 
only  found  difficulty  in  ali,L,Miin<,f  the  theodolite  correctly 
on  to  south  stars,  an  operation  commonly  spoken  of 
a>  "  picking'  u]) "  the  stars.  On  the  north  side  of  Yeshil 
Kul.  Leno  noticed  nunjerous  ])illars  of  stones  and  of 
horns  of  yak.  antelope,  and  sheep  built  up  with  mud. 
all  close  to<,'ethe)'.  also  several  circles  about  a  couple  of 
miles  in  diameter,  formed  by  ditches  about  one  foot  deep 
and  four  broad,  not  far  from  the  jDillars.  The  Ladakis 
said  that  tlie  Chun^fpas,  or  natives  of  the  C'hanpf,  built 
them  as  places  of  worship. 

l''oi-  some  days  after  1  was  free  from  fever  I  was  too 
weak  to  travel.  Illness,  especially  when  accompanied  l)y 
a  rise  of  temperature,  has  a  far  <,avater  effect  on  the 
human  system  at  these  ^'reat  altitudes  than  at  moderate 
hei<,dits,  and.  according  to  my  experience,  convalescence 
is  slow  and  attended  with  an  abnormally  low  temperature. 
How  long  this  lasts  is  not  recorded  in  my  journal,  as  I 
ceased  to  ascertain  my  temperature  a  few  days  after  it 
was  not  uimsually  high.  There  wei'e  numerous  storms  of 
rain,  hail,  and  sn(»w  during  the  ten  days  of  our  stay  near 
Yesliil  Kul,  a  delay  whicli  caused  very  serious  inroads  into 
our  supplies.  It  was  with  the  very  best  spirits  that  we 
resumed  our  journey  on  the  iHth  of  July,  in  an  easterly 
direction  along  a  fairly  l)road  valley  in  which  we  found 
plenty   of   grass  and    some   small  lakes,  at    least  one  of 


o/>s/iA'r/\(;  I  \ /)/:/<  niiiicri.iii-.s.     25 

which  was  so  iiiipivfrnatucl  with  soda  as  to  be  very  un- 
pleasant to  drink.  On  account  of  its  disagreeable  taste, 
the  water  of  this  lake  is  described  on  my  map  as  "  drink- 
able," l)ut  only  veiy  thirsty  p(>o])lc  will  swallow  much 
of  it. 

h'or  travellers  on  land,  observation  of  the  stars  is  far 
more  accurate  and  more  convenient  in  every  way  than 
that  of  the  sun,  and  1  never  took  solar  observations  unless 
compelled  to  do  so.  Hut  in  the  liiuii  winds  of  this  region 
such  nocturnal  operations  were  tryin^^  for  the  temper. 
Partial  protection  could  be  arran<2[ed  for  the  lantern  bv 
which  Leno  recorded  for  me  in  the  open  aii\  but  no 
surticient  sheltei'  could  l)e  devised  for  that  which  was 
employed  to  illuminate  the  wires  of  the  theodolite.  On 
several  ni^dits  it  was  i'e))eatedly  blown  out  at  the  most 
important  instants.  .\t  lirst  1  sheltered  the  llame  bv 
tyin«^  rags  round  a  })ortibn  of  the  ventilator.  These, 
however,  excluded  the  wind  too  effectually,  for,  owing 
to  (lie  small  :inn)unt  of  o.KVgen  in  the  atmosphere  at  these 
altitudes,  it  is  necessary  to  have  ample  space  for  the 
ir.gress  and  egress  of  the  air.  The  re-lighting  of  tlie 
caiidle  in  such  circumstances  required  j^atience.  and 
invr.lved  the  e.xpendituic  of  many  of  the  wax  vestas 
whic-K  had  Ixmmi  ])ut  up  into  s[iecial  tins  lor  us  by  Jiryant 
and  May.  The  candles,  necessary  for  the  work  of  com- 
putation, wei'c  nut  tno  pleiiiiful  ;  We  kuew  not  wlu'ii  our 
supply  could  be  renewi'd,  and  wc  had  no  mi'ans  of 
burning  oil  in  the  lanterns.  I  therefore  practised 
economy  by  nnanably  pultnig  out  tln'  lantcrn>  the 
moment  the  instruments  wi're  packed  away  and  tiie 
chrononu'ter  watches  com|>ari'd,  and  then  going  to  bed 
ill  the  dark. 

Soon  after  leaving  "  l''»vei-  Camp."  Pike  and  1  had 
numerous  discussions  as  to  the  best  (hrection  t<>  take. 
Owing  to  an  extensive   snow-ran^e  in   the  line  wc  wished 


26   /.y  riiinr  .\\n  ciiiMisn  iiKKHsrAX. 

to  lolltiw.  it  \v:is  iU'LH'ss;iiy  lo  diviT^M'  tillicr  ti»  llu-  iiniili 
or  ti)  tlu'  south  of  it.  We  agreed  ihat  il'  wi-  shaped  a 
southerly  course  we  would  prohably  linii  plenty  of  water, 
and  that  where  there  was  water  the  all-iinportaut  ^a'ass 
and  hoortza  would  not  he  far  distant  ;  whereas  if  we 
went  into  a  somewhat  hi<,d)er  latitude  and  comparatively 
o[)en  country  with  only  low  mountains,  the  cliances  were 
that  water  and  grass  would  he  very  scarce.  Although 
fully  recognising  the  wisdom  of  adii|»iing  tlu-  foiincr 
course,  we  eventually  settled  to  venture  on  the  latter, 
as  it  would  lead  us  further  away  from  l»ower's  routi-. 
.Many  pi'oplc  atirihute  to  travellers  in  out-of-the-way 
countries  a  propensity  to  i-xaggerate.  At  ihf  risk  of 
incurring  this  imputation,  1  must  refer  to  the  encn'UKjus 
numhers  of  antelopes  seen  near  Camps  1'.)  and  '20.  For 
many  miles  in  every  direction  except  west,  from  Camp 
19,  in  fact  as  far  as  the  human  eye  aided  by  powerful 
l)inoculars  could  see,  there  were  thousands  of  antelopes 
in  large  herds  scattered  ai)out  irregularly  wheicvci-  there 
was  plenty  <jf  grass.  J  must  confess  my  inability  to 
guess  at  the  approximate  numhers  on  the  outskirts  of 
the  com})aratively  level  ground  called  on  my  map  "  .Vnte- 
l(jpe  Plains,"  hut  Pike,  who  had  had  experience  in  sheep- 
farming  in  America,  was  of  opinion  that  at  least  15,000 
were  seen. 

About  this  time  two  of  the  caravan  men  became  too  ill 
to  march,  and,  as  there  was  only  one  unladen  animal,  I 
had  to  moimt  Sonam  on  my  riding  pony  and  get  along  as 
best  J  could  on  foot.  Though  the  marches  were  short,  I 
was  very  tired  before  they  were  nearly  finished,  owing  t(j 
weakness  after  fever,  and  I  was  exceedingly  glad  when  it 
was  time  to  halt  and  throw  down  my  I'ille,  ammunition, 
Held  glasses,  and  water  bottle.  Xurdin,  another  Argun, 
was  also  on  the  sick  list  with  inflamed  eyes.  His  right 
eye  was  so  very  bad  at  Camp  10  tliat  I  put  a  bandage  over 


.S7(  "A'.W: .V.S.  27 

it  in  ordt-r  to  iiiakt!  certain  (jf  his  not  usin<;  it,  wlnlu  the 
h'ft  eye  was  protected  by  p[o<,'«,'les  from  tl»e  ^'reat  j^larc 
which  is  nearly  always  experienced  in  Western  Tibet,  and 
probably  in  the  remainder  of  the  country  as  well.  At 
least  this  was  my  [)lan.  but  he  would  not  obey  the  strict 
orders  he  received  ;  and,  much  to  my  annoyance,  arrived 
at  the  next  camp  without  the  slij^ditcst  j)rotection  for  his 
eyes,  the  banda^'c  and  <;of.,'^des  havin;^'  been  discarded  very 
soon  after  my  back  was  turned.  I'^indin^  thai  he  wituld 
not  carry  out  any  orders  I  gave  about  his  eyes,  1  was 
reluctantly  oblifrcd  to  cease  my  efforts  to  cure  them,  and 
leave  him  to  his  own  devices.  ()!  the  two  (Ulu'r  invalids 
Sonani  soon  recovered  sufficiently  to  be  able  to  do  without 
my  pony,  but  unfortunately  Sidik  was  found  to  be  sutYer- 
ing  from  droi)sy,  which  soon  provided  an  excuse  for  his 
doing  but  little  work,  and  later  on  nothing  at  all,  except 
weeping  whenever  1  spoke  to  him.  For  a  long  time  he 
was  an  outcast  from  the  society  of  the  caravan  men,  who 
considered  him  la/y  and  feigning  illness  to  avoid  doing 
his  share  of  the  work. 

T^oon  after  getting  abn-ast  of  the  last  largi'  herd  of  ante- 
lopes we  found  ourselves  in  a  barren  country,  and  decided 
to  pitch  C'ami)  'Jo  in  :i  ^in.iil  ludlah  containing  good  water, 
while  Pike  went  on  ahead  to  reconnoitre,  and  the  animals 
were  sent  back  to  graze.  I,  being  still  below  par,  remained 
in  camp,  but  two  caravan  men  I\am/an,  the  bashi,  and 
Islam — each  on  a  nude,  sallied  foith  in  a  dinn'tion  some- 
what dilTerent  from  that  taken  by  Tike.  They  had  re- 
ceived strict  oiders  to  keep  a  shar[)  look-out  for  him. 
as  well  as  for  the  all-important  grass  and  water;  but 
passed  him  comparatively  close  in  the  open  without 
seeing  him.  b'ortunately  he  saw  tlu-m.  and  bn)Uglit 
them  back.  X(HMlless  to  say  aft(>r  that  proof  of  their 
defective  vision  they  were  never  again  sent  out  recon- 
noitring, and  we  ceased  to  place  any  reliance  on  reports 


2S     /.\'    rillET  AM)    ClIlMiSh:    TL'RKI-.S  r.w. 

concerning'  the  countiv  l>\  any  iiuiiilx  r  ol'  llic  canivaii 
except  Leno. 

Pike's  reconnaissance  reveak'il  llic  un|)leasant  lad  llial 
for  many  miles  tliere  was  not  a  trati-  ol'  ve^'etali<»n,  and  in 
all  probability  water  would  not  he  met  with  in  the  very 
o[)en  country  east  of  Camp  '20.  Our  animals  were  now  in 
such  wretched  condition  tiiat  we  would  most  likely  have 
lost  many  of  them  in  tryin«,'  to  peni'trate  throu^di  this 
unknown,  barren,  and  waterless  country,  so  we  reluctantly 
decided  to  f,'o  back  one  march  and  seek  a  feasible  route  in 
the  direction  we  had  previously  thou^'ht  of  atlemptin<,'. 
To  people  who  have  not  travelled  in  Tibet  or  other 
countries  where  an  e(]ually  clear  atmosphere  prevails, 
it  is  very  hard  to  believe  that,  after  a  little  experience, 
one  can  discern  vegetation  at  a  ^Meat  distance.  W  itli 
the  help  of  <,'ood  field  jL,'lasses  it  is  possible,  when  ini  a 
commandin*,'  situation,  to  be  almost  certain  of  the  prt-- 
sence  or  absence  of  vegetation,  which  in  this  part  of 
Tibet  takes  (jiily  the  form  of  grass  or  boortza,  at  a 
distance  of  about  twenty  miles,  and,  under  very  favour- 
able conditions,  nearly  twenty-five  mill's. 

At  the  foot  of  the  range  south  of  ("ani|)  1*.)  several  very 
dark  spots  were  noticed,  which  (in  i-loser  examination 
proved  to  he  the  outlets  of  some  evil-smelling  gas,  pro- 
bably suli)huretted  hydrogen.  So  powerful  was  the  odour 
that  in  some  instances  our  nasal  organs  were  the  first  to 
inform  us  of  the  existence  of  these  natural  outlets,  close 
to  which  tlu^  dt!ad  bodies  of  some  insects,  and  I  think  one 
or  two  l)irds,  bore  testimony  to  the  poisoncjus  nature  of 
the  gas.  Though  the  leturn  march  to  Camp  19  was  only 
about  ten  miles,  Kam/an  pleaded  excess  of  work  for  the 
caravan  men  as  an  excuse  for  not  sending  out  for  an  ante- 
lope which  I'tam  Singh  had  shot  near  caiii]».  but  which 
he  had  not  handled  as  he  was  a  Hindu. 

The  caravan  men  were,  in  fact,  so  well  fed  without  any 


LA/V   CIA'.}  I '.IX   .]//■:. \.  31 

li(jul)lo  to  tlu'inselvt's  tliiit  they  liiul  bi-i-oinc  too  la/.y  to  i^o 
oven  a  short  way  to  administer  the  coup  dr  t/race  to  any 
victim  either  of  our  rifles  or  of  those  of  the  Hindus. 

Annoying  as  tliey  were  on  this  occasion,  they  were  still 
more  so  on  the  next  day  when,  instead  ol"  making,'  an 
earlier  start  than  usual,  as  ordered,  the  caiavan  (Hd  not 
set  out  till  later  than  usual.  Where  oui'  saddles  or  lifles 
were  deposited  at  the  end  ol  the  luareh,  there  they  knew 
our  tents  would  he  pitched  ;  and  it  was  their  husiness  to 
prevent  any  of  the  mules  or  i)onies  from  approaching,',  hut 
now  they  showed  not  the  slightest  inclination  to  keep  the 
animals  otif.  Pike  was  so  provoked  that  he  addressed 
them  in  strong  language,  of  which  they  complained  to 
me;  hut  I  told  them  the  wimder  was  that  he  had  not 
beaten  tlniii. 

The  antelope  in  this  neii^hliDuilidiid  wt're  exceedingly 
tame,  and  from  the  very  calm  and  leisurely  way  in  which 
two  large  herds  that  I  met  hetween  Camps  'Jl  and  '22 
sauntered  away  after  ga/.ing  long  a  (■oiij>le  of  hundred 
yards  from  nii',  it  was  \iry  evident  that  they  were  (juite 
unfamiliar  \sitli  liiniian  heings.  As  we  were  plentifully 
supplied  with  fresh  meat  for  all  hands,  we  refrainvd  frt)m 
slaughtering  any  of  these  unsuspicious  beasts,  who  re- 
garded the  caravan  close  by  with  evident  curiosity. 
Though  grass  was  in  several  plac(^s  very  abundant, 
water  was  exceedingly  scarce  ;  but  at  one  locality  its 
pri'sence  was  in(hi-ated  fiom  afar  by  the  existence  (»f  a 
large  disused  sheep-pen.  W'e  surndsed  that  men  tend- 
ing the  sheep  must  ha\c'  llNcd  for  sonic  time  close  by, 
and  they  could  not  have  done  so  unless  then"  was  water 
in  the  vicinity,  h'ortunately  our  surmise  was  correct,  as 
a  snuill  spring  of  excellent  water  existed  almost  alongside 
the  abandoned  sheep-jten,  alTording  a  great  contrast  to  the 
supply  at  our  next  camp,  where  the  only  water  was  that 
of  a  lake,  so  impregnated  with  soda,  \c.,  as  tt)  be  alnmst 


32   /.\'  TiiuiT  Axn  c///x/:sr.   rrKKi-sr.ix. 

uiulrinkuble.  The  view  Innu  I  amp  lA  was  most  pictu- 
resque, the  bhie  waters  of  the  hike  a  few  hundred  feet  from 
our  tents,  on  an  upper  terrace  which  had  at  one  epocli 
been  submerged,  formed  a  strikiuf]^  contrast  to  the  fine 
range  of  hif,di,  snow-capped  mountains  on  the  southern 
side.  No  doubt  in  circumstances  causing  less  anxiety  the 
majestic  nature  of  the  landscape  would  have  been  properly 
appreciated,  but  then  I  could  not  I'xclude  from  my 
thoughts  the  facts  that  Pike  was  very  unw^ell,  that 
nearly  all  our  animals  were  in  very  poor  condition,  that 
the  men  were  not  behaving  well,  and  that  we  had  no 
idea  of  when  and  where  supplies  and  transport  could 
be  procured.  On  many  of  the  hills  near  Camps  '24  and 
25  there  are  nmuerous  lines,  which  looked  like  boundaries 
consisting  of  stones  and  small  mounds,  about  one  foot 
high,  at  regular  intervals  apart.  The  caravan  men  attri- 
buted these  to  Chukpas  or  robbers,  who  formerly  had 
come  to  these  parts  to  graze  their  flocks,  and  no  doubt 
for  })rofessional  purposes  also  if  opportunities  occurred, 
but  who  were  now  debarred  from  coming  by  order  of 
the  authorities  of  Lhasa.  There  may  be  some  truth  in 
this  statement,  but  it  is  not  very  apparent  how  the  Lhasa 
officials  can  hold  sway  over  professional  robbers  in  this 
distant  part  of  Tibet,  unless  the  latter  contribute  regu- 
larly to  the  state  exchequer,  or  the  pockets  of  its  high 
officials,  which  are  no  doubt  the  same  thing. 

We  were  now  in  a  country  with  a  profusion  of  excellent 
grass,  but  water  was  not  so  plentiful.  At  one  camp  at 
the  west  end  of  the  long  valley  leading  into  the  lake 
north  of  and  close  to  Aru  C'ho,  the  small  stream  by  which 
we  camped  flowed  only  for  a  few  hours  daily,  showing 
that  the  hot  sun  of  a  summer's  day  has  only  a  very 
temporary  effect  on  the  glaciers  at  the  western  end  of 
the  snow  range  on  the  south  side  of  the  valley.  Pike's 
riding  pony,   which  had   shown  signs  of   weakness  and 


ni-.\7//    O/-    /'/K/i'S    /'0\y.  33 

in(';i))iifity  for  I'nrtlu'r  woi-k,  uIiIkhij^Ii  '»>'  ""  incj^ns  very 
cmariatiMl,  died  during  the  ni«;iit  of  tlic  -J'^th  of  .hily 
amidst  so  niucli  cxccllfnt  iira/iiii;  that  poisonous  j^rass 
was  suspectc'd,  especially  as  a  mule  died  at  the  same 
place,  ^fucli  to  my  regret  and,  1  may  add.  amioyaiice. 
iiotliinj^-  would  induce  my  companion  to  share  my  lidin.u 
l)ony  whicli  was  at  first  continually  offered  to  him,  hut 
always  refused.  We  had  decided  to  march  alon<.(  the 
nortliern  side  of  this  valley  on  account  of  the  grass  which 
was  more  plentiful  there  than  on  the  opposite  hank, 
where  numerous  rivulets  and  springs  rend(>red  the  ground 
too  soft  for  the  progress  of  the  caravan.  I'iiiding,  how- 
ever, that  our  general  direction  was  more  northerly  than 
was  thought  advisahle  to  follow,  we  resolved  to  cross  to 
the  south  side.  Our  camp  was  close  to  a  hroad  stream, 
the  volume  of  which  was  small,  hut  its  soft  and  treacherous 
hottom  proved  a  formidahle  ohstacle,  which  we  eventually 
negotiated  successfully  after  nuich  time  had  hcen  spent 
in  searching  for  a  place  sutticiently  sound  for  the  caravan 
to  proceed  with  safety.  Whilst  some  men  were  looking 
for  a  ford  the  majority  went  in  search  of  thirty  animals 
that  had  strayed  so  far  during  the  night,  that  it  was  not 
until  -V.'^O  p.m.  that  tluy  were  brought  hack  to  ramp. 

When  time  is  of  no  importance,  and  transjiort  and 
supplies  do  not  cause  any  anxiety,  a  retrograde  movement 
is  of  but  little  consequence  ;  hut  wlun  supplies  are  limited 
and  the  bearers  of  them  decidedly  thin,  it  is  of  the  utmost 
importance  to  economise  both  time  and  lahoui-.  l-'or  a 
short  time  after  striking  Ko\M'1-"s  route  at  the  north  of 
.\ru  C"ho,  we  seriously  considered  the  advisability  of 
following  it  for  a  few  marches  before  deviating  from 
a  previousJN  triKldcii  idiite,  foi-  it  cannot  he  designated 
a  track,  as  not  a  xcstige  of  one  was  to  he  si'en.  We 
considered  that  in  all  prol)ai)ility  we  would  be  abli' to  travel 
east  bv   that   route   for  at    least   some   nuirches   without 


.u   /.y  7v/>/r/'  j.w)  cn/xF.sn  tcrkf.stax. 

iiiiicli  l)(>tlu'i',  l)iit,  s(i  ^rcjit  \\;is  tlu'  l';isciiiali< )ii  ol  ahso- 
lutt'ly  uiiknoNVu  countrv,  tliat  we  elected  to  disciiid  a 
practical  certainty  and  trust  to  Providence  in  advancin^^ 
furtlier  east  over  vii'^iii  f^fround.  Even  now  1  liail  not 
completely  recovered  from  the  effects  of  the  illness  at 
"Fever  Camp,"  and  it  is  to  iliis  weakness  that  I  must 
ascribe  the  disinclination  to  measure  a  suitable  base  soon 
after  completinfj  tlie  daily  march.  It  was  now  the  turn 
of  my  riding  pony  to  give  in.  While  being  ofi-saddled 
at  Camp  27  he  fell  down  ;  tiie  ne.xt  morning  he  again 
temporarily  collapsed ;  subsequently  he  was  able  to  pro- 
ceed for  a  few  miles  without  any  greater  weight  than 
a  saddle  on  his  back,  but  then  he  finally  succumbed. 

Striking  contrasts  in  scenery  are  by  no  means  un- 
connnon  in  Til)et,  as  for  instance,  in  the  country  around 
Aru  Cho.  On  the  western  side  of  this  lake,  which  we 
ascertained  to  be  of  a  different  size  from  that  marked  on 
the  latest  map  of  Tibet,  there  is  a  fine  range  of  snow-clad 
mountains  extending  beyond  the  northern  and  southern 
shores  of  the  lake,  but  on  the  eastern  side  there  are  only 
comparatively  low  mountains,  none  of  which  exceed 
19,500  feet  in  altitude.  Not  far  from  the  foot  of  the 
snow  range  in  the  south-west  corner  of  Am  Cho  there 
is  an  unusually  large  supply  of  wild  rhubarb,  which, 
though  inferior  to  the  cultivated  kind,  was  not  despised 
by  us.  The  quality  of  the  grass  in  this  neighbourhood 
is  infinitely  superior  to  that  of  the  coarse  and  very 
sharp  kind,  called  "lungma"  by  Ladakis,  previously 
encountered.  Here  a  small,  soft,  fine  grass,  known  to 
the  Arguns  as  "  peelee,"  largely  preponderated,  iinicii  to 
the  benefit  of  our  impoverished  animals,  who  greatly 
appreciated  this  more  nutritive  food. 

Once  more  inability  to  estimate  distance  correctly  was 
brought  home  to  us.  W'licn  leaving  Camp  20,  we  fully 
expected   to  pitch  oui"  next   cani|>  on   tlie  oljici-  side  of  a 


I/.L.\/-SS    (>/■"   .s'.i.\'.I/J.\'.  35 

very  eiisy  pass  lyin^'  sliglitly  east  of  soutli,  but  by  the 
time  we  had  crossed  a  larf^^e  and  very  rapid  river  coming 
from  the  snow  range  wliich  i-uns.  roughly  speaking, 
parallel  to  Aru  C'ho  and  on  its  western  side,  we  were 
obliged  to  abandon  the  project  and  camp  in  a  very  small 
but  well-sheltered  valley,  in  whicli  there  was  just  sufficient 
water  to  supply  the  wants  of  men  and  animals.  This 
lovely,  clear  water  was  in  delightful  contrast  to  the 
muddy  torrent  which  had  to  be  crossed  before  we  reached 
the  secluded  site  for  camp.  Xo  I'iding  j^ony  being  ii\;iil- 
able  either  for  I'ike  or  myself,  the  only  one  left  being 
allotted  to  Leno  on  account  of  his  work,  we  had  to  get 
across  on  Shank's  mare.  I  foolishly  took  off  my  boots 
and  crossed  barefooted,  but  very  soon  regretted  having 
done  so.  Either  on  account  of  unusually  tender  feet  or 
exceptionally  sharp  stones,  my  sensations  in  fording  that 
brook  cannot  be  truthfully  described  as  the  height  of 
enjoyment.  Sanman  must  have  experienced  still  more 
discomfort  as,  when  in  mid-stream,  he  stumlilcd  in  such 
a  manner  as  to  be  thoroughly  iiiuiierscd,  an  unpleasant 
co)itretemp!i  of  which  he  saiil  iioilnng  until  he  became 
unwell.  Even  then  he  would  nol  report  himself  sick, 
and  but  for  Leno,  who  informed  me  that  Sanman-  was 
off  his  food,  neither  Pike  nor  I  would  have  been  the 
wiser.  The  annoyance  of  having  another  case  of  illnass 
in  our  party  was  not  diminished  by  the  following 
dialogue  : — 

"  Well,  Sanman,  what  is  the  nuitter  with  you?" 

"Oh,  Sahib,  1  am  shivering  and  very  cold." 

"  \\  hat  has  lia[)[»ene(l  to  you?  "" 

"  I  fell  into  the  river  to-day." 

"  \\'hv  did  you  not  ebauLit'  \dnr  elotlits  ms  soon  as 
camp  was  pitched  ?  " 

"I  had  too  much  woik  lo  ilo;  the  sahii>>  uoiild  not 
givt'   me  time  to  change." 


v-    /v   riiir.r  .\\n  ciiixr.si-:   /CKKr.sr.w. 

"  Vttii  son  (if  ;iii  owl.  wliiit  iiiadf  you  fall  into  tlir 
liver".' ■■ 

N'o  I'fply. 

■■  W'liy  tlic  .  .  .  (lid  you  iiol  tell  the  saliilis  that  your 
clotlit's  wevv  wet  "' 

No  reply. 

l"'iii(]iiif,f  his  tciiipcratuic  JO'J'.V'and  fiirlli(  r  (|Uf^t  ionium 
useless,  1  iidiuinistcrt'd  u  suitable  dru^  and  i(,'tired  to  my 
tiMit  with  the  heartlVlt  re<j[ri^t  that  such  a  spoilt  child  was 
a  iiieuiher  of  the  caravan.  Neither  I'ike  nor  I  had  had 
any  idea  of  Sannian's  encounter  with  the  bottom  of  the 
river,  and.  as  his  clothes  l)ore  no  visil)le  traces  of  the 
wettin;^,  he  had  been  detailed  soon  after  camp  was 
])itcdied  to  put  some  botanical  specimens  into  the  press, 
an  operation  whicdi  could  easily  have  been  postponed  if 
he  had  only  informed  us  of  his  accident.  IMie  next 
niornini^f  Sanman  was  somewhat  better,  but  in  a  short 
time  his  ti-mperature  rose  to  nearly  104",  so  we  decided 
to  halt  for  tlie  day.  One  day's  halt  bein/j;  as  much  as  we 
considered  advisable,  om-  advance  was  resumed  next  day, 
althou<,di  the  sick  man's  temperature  was  102°  before  we 
started  and  rose  '2i°  by  the  time  the  march  was  concluded. 
A  second  very  precious  day  had  to  be  spent  in  inactivity, 
but  towards  evening  Sanman  showed  signs  of  iiuprove- 
ment.  Another  annoying  episode  was  the  straying  of 
many  of  the  animals  from  the  vicinity  of  Camp  81,  in- 
volving' the  loss  of  another  day  whilst  most  of  the  men 
went  in  search  of  the  missing  steeds.  By  the  next 
morning  the  eleven  best  mules  and  ponies  were  still 
missing,  a  condition  of  things  which  we  erroneously 
ascribed  to  the  desire  of  the  caravan  men  to  retard  our 
advance.  Having  left  liamzan  and  two  men  to  look  for 
the  mules,  we  went  on  with  as  much  baggage  as  could 
be  carried,  and  camped  on  the  other  side  of  a  low  pass  to 
the  south  of  the  lake  close  to  Camp  'M  .  lK)pinrr  that  this 


/<o/!/;i-:n  /.')'  ci/CKrAS.  37 

plan  would  act  as  an  iiut  inivi'  to  Kam/.an  and  his  two 
companions  to  recover  the  nndes  speedily.  J^urin«,'  this 
march  we  followed  for  most  of  the  way  a  freshly  used 
iniil.  hut  whether  ponies  or  kyan^^  had  last  used  it  we 
tduld  not  he  certain,  nor  were  the  caravan  men  al)le  to 
enli^diten  us  owin^'  to  the  common  helief  that  the  natives 
of  this  country  could  not  atf;ird  the  luxury  of  Nhocs  for 
their  ponies. 

We  were  not  left  lon^^  in  douht  of  liic  })resence  of 
inhahitants,  for,  early  in  the  nioi-iiin^f  of  the  second  day 
after  we  had  left  Camp  ."M,  Xurdin  arrived  with  the  news 
{hat  the  day  after  our  departure  a  few  Chukpas  had 
suddenly  visited  camp,  and  having  seized  and  bound  the 
two  men,  had  looted  the  baggage.  Fortunately,  photo- 
graphic films,  packed  in  hermetically  sealed  tins  con- 
taiinng  half  a  gross  each,  were  not  considered  of  nuich 
value,  matches,  rice,  and  suttoo  Ix'ing  iiioic  [iri/.cij  by  the 
('liuk[)as.  I  have  but  little  doul)t  that  the  guards  left 
behind  wi're  far  too  frightened  when  the  robbers  appeared 
to  offer  any  resistance,  for  only  two  \isitoi-s  were  seen 
ami  no  mention  was  made  of  any  attemi)t  on  tlu-  part  of 
Uamzan  or  Xurdin  to  protect  the  baggage.  As  there  was 
still  no  news  of  the  eleven  mules,  we  now  very  luiturally 
considered  that  tlic  ("liukpas  were  in  possession  of  them. 
and  wi'  promptly  held  a  council  ot  war  to  settle  tlie  best 
plan  of  operations  to  regain  the  footl  stolen  from  camp  as 
well  as  the  niucli  piM/eil  and  indi>|Miisable  beasts  of 
burden.  As  tiie  nnssing  animals  were  undoubtedly  the 
best  wi'  had  and  fice  from  sores,  it  was  considered  far 
more  likely  that  they  had  been  stolen  than  that  tlu\  had 
strayi'd,  notwithstanding  their  well-known  propensitx  to 
stray  even  when  ni  the  midst  of  'jood  'jra/inL:. 


c'ii.\i''i'i;i;    III 

Council  of  Wiir  I'lan  of  opcnitious— Skill  and  i)luck  of  I'ike — 
Cliangfunchuk — Chukpas  completely  surprised — Anxiety  about 
Pike — Searching  for  missing  Animals— Burning  surplus  Baggage 
— Our  Situation — Serious  Outlook — "Caching"  Stores — Making 
Clothes  out  of  Tents — Illness  of  Pike-  Anxiety  about  Water — 
Waterless  Cami) — Meeting  witli  Noiuads — They  refuse  to  help  us 
— Shown  the  w  roiig  direction  -Lost  in  the  Desert 

V  S  tliciv  was  ividentl}-  an  enemy  hanging  about  in 
•^"^  this  neighbourhood,  we  held  a  council  to  concert 
nieasiires  for  the  recovery  of  supplies  and  transport. 
Though  the  general  disposition  of  (jur  company  was  not 
warlike,  we  came  iiiiiiiiiiiiously  to  the  decision  that  the 
C'liuk])as  must  be  fi)iui(l  and  compelled  to  make  restitu- 
tion. I'ikf  and  1  had  revolvers,  and  in  the  camp  there 
were  eight  magazine  i-arbines  and  a  shot  gun.  but, 
l)esides  ourselves,  the  only  men  capable  of  using  these 
weapons  were  Leno,  Sanman.  L'tam  Singh  (a  Sikh), 
C'hangfimchuk  (an  Argim),  and  Dass  (the  Hindu  cook),  *  ' 
who  had  courage  enough  for  the  discharge  of  the  shot 
gun  but  was  incapable  oi  using  it  with  the  necessary 
deli  Iteration.  So  far  as  fighting  was  concerned,  it 
mattered  little  that  a  considerable  number  of  our  men 
were  absent,  looking  for  the  lost  nmles.  Pike  undertook 
the  search  for  the  marauders  and  chose  as  his  companions 

l'tam     Singh,    a    man     wlio    could    be    I'elied     on,     and 
Chau'duncliuk.   who   was  a  good   slujt.      To  niy   lot   fell 


PLAX   OF   O/'HRATIOXS.  39 

tlie  duty  of  n'liiiiinin^r  in  cuiiip  for  the  defence  of  the 
property  which  still  remained  to  us.  At  Camp  81  we  had 
left  some  bagf(age,  and.  lor  the  recovery  of  this,  Leno, 
Ramzan,  Sannian,  and  two  caravan  men  with  sixteen 
animals  set  out  to  accompany  Pike  as  far  as  our  old 
(piarters.  There  was  some  ^a"ound  for  thinking  tliat  our 
movements  were  being  watched  by  the  ("hukpas,  who, 
not  improbably,  would  make  another  inroad  when  our 
number  was  reduced.  1  did  not  wish  any  such  intention 
on  their  part  to  be  frustrated,  and  as  the  route  between 
the  two  camps  was  not  dithcult,  I  instructed  Leno  not  to 
return  till  after  dark.  The  fighting  strength  remaining 
with  me  was  thus  reduced  to  Tara  Singh  (an  old  Sikh  . 
and  iJass,  the  Hindu  cook.  I  next  ordered  look-out 
sentries  to  take  up  a  position  close  t(j  the  camp.  N\here  the 
mules  and  [)onies  lia<i  been  lied  up.  and  sent  out  two  men. 
one  to  keep  the  loose  ponies  from  straying  and  to  bring 
them  back  in  the  evening,  the  other  to  look  after  the 
sheep.  These  two  men  performed  their  work  satis- 
factorily, but  the  sentry  on  duty  al  night  c(.»uld  not  keep 
awake.  About  half-past  two  in  tli<-  morning  1  strolled 
round  to  sff  bow  things  looked,  nnd  tin(hng  tbat  the 
tied-up  nudes  and  jionics  bad  been  allowed  to  brt  ak 
loose,  I  had  to  (h'spalcli  other  iin  11  in  search  of  the 
animals,  and  to  undertake  in  person  the  work  of  sentry. 

.\t  da\hi'c;ik  1  \sas  rflicvcil  iVnni  my  post  b\  'i'ara 
Smgli,  whom  1  stationed  on  a  neighbouring  hill,  wlifiiee 
III'  could  see  our  camp  and  also  the  track  to  ("am[)  -U. 
The  ojil  man's  head.  h)rnuily  black,  had  recently  assumed 
its  natural  grey  colour,  being  di'[)rived  of  llu'  dye  which 
bad  suppliiMl  the  lustre  of  youth.  Having  some  ho[)e  of 
a  visit  from  the  Cliukpas,  I  ordered  all  the  men  i-xcept 
the  sentry,  the  shepherd,  aiul  the  man  with  the  loose 
ponii's,  to  ri'main  in  tlu-ir  tents,  but  my  hoiie  was 
disappointed,  and  in  thf  afternoon  Tara  Singh  announced 


40   /.\'  /7/.7-;/  ./.\7'  (///.\'/:s/-:  /ta'AV-.s/'./a". 

ilial  In-  >ii\\  rilMiiii  ilir  way  l);u-l\  lo  ramp.  1  liiislfiu'd 
to  meet  him,  iiml  scion  learnccl  the  result  ol"  his  expedition. 
After  ascertainin;^  that  the  Chukpas  had  ittiiiiicd  to 
Camp  .'U  and  taken  moi\'  (»!'  our  supphes.  lie  had  [lUshed 
on  rapidly.  h)llo\vin^'  their  track,  till  he  eame  in  sif^dit 
ol  their  tents.  Then  he  rei-onnoitred  the  position,  and 
hivouaeked  for  the  ni;,dit  in  a  small  nullah,  where  he 
would  e.scape  observation.  Next  morninj,',  before  day- 
lijjjht,  he  proceeded  to  pay  a  surprise  visit  to  the  Chukpas. 
On  the  way  there  was  a  stream  to  be  forded,  and  I'tam 
Sin<,di  without  liesitation  leapt  with  him  into  the  ice-cold 
water  and  waded  across.  Cliangfimchuk,  however,  was 
deliberate  in  his  proceedings,  waited  on  the  bank,  took 
oil'  his  boots,  and  then  crossed  at  his  leisure,  so  that,  in 
spite  of  emphatic  remonstrances  by  Pike,  he  secured  a 
position  well  in  the  rear  and  free  from  innnediate  risk. 
J^y  the  time  it  was  daylight  they  had  reached  the  Chukpas 
camp  and  found  that  the  inmates  were  on  the  move.  The 
approach  had  i)een  accomplished  so  stealthily  that  the 
Chukpas  were  (juite  unsuspicious,  and  when  one  of  them 
stepped  out  of  his  tent  and  found  I'ike  standing  at  only 
a  coujile  of  yards'  distance,  presenting  a  revolver  at  his 
head,  he  stared  in  sinprise  and  then  ran  oil".  Ileic  were 
found  the  rice,  suttoo,  and  other  provisions  of  which  we 
hatl  been  robbed,  but  there  was  no  sign  of  tin;  lost  nudes. 
( )ther  Chukpa  tents  were  standing  not  far  off.  and  it 
seemed  exjiedient  to  retin-  at  once  with  the  recovered 
stores.  I'ike  tlnnight  it  prudent  als<j  to  deprive  the  owner 
of  the  tent  of  arms  and  annnunition.  and,  as  security  for 
the  mules  which  were  not  recovered,  he  seized  two  fine 
ponies.  Some  may  be  inclined  to  inty  the  poor  ncjmads 
and  to  condemn  Pike's  proceedings  as  harsh,  but  it  has 
to  l)e  considered  that  we  were  entirely  dependent  on  our 
supplies  for  our  life,  and  that  beasts  of  burden  were  indis- 
pensable for  transport.    Successful  robbery  perpetrated  on 


/u'KX/xc  SI /</'/. cs  /;.{(;(:. Id/-: 


4' 


iiii'ii  in  llu'Sf  ciivumsiiiiH-es  is  little  bt-ttcr  lliiiii  luunK'r, 
iind  it  was  uiuloiihti'illy  our  duty  to  protect  ourselves  ;iinl 
those  dependent  on  u>. 

We  lin<^ered  in  the  nei;,'lii)ouihoo(l  lor  seveiiil  <lays 
search iiij,f  for  the  missing'  animals,  hut  without  succt'ss. 
They  had  evidently  heeii  taken  far  heyoud  our  reach, 
and,  as  it  was  inqjossihle  to  carry  all  our  lu^'^M^'e  without 
them,  we  hail  to  considrf  uli;if  cduld  be  abandoned  with 


IllllMMi    Tin:    IIKIITIION    IIOAI. 


least  risk  to  our>el\t>.  (  >l'  the  nndes  still  Kit.  four  dii'ti 
at  this  place,  so  that  we  hail  many  pai-k-saddles  and 
jhools  which  Were  now  clearly  superlltious.  'I'lu-  beaulifid 
lierthoii  boat  which,  with  much  trouble,  we  hiid  brou^dil 
thus  far  was  not  indisjuMisable  ;  there  were  canip  beds 
and  chairs  which,  m  ilif  circumstances,  we  I'ondenmed 
as  luxuiics.  and  alto;,M'ther  a  cousideraiile  ri'duction  id 
the    weight    to    be   carried    was    found    piacticable.      r>ut. 


4-^    /.y  TiiuiT  Axn  cnixEsii  tcrkhst.w. 

though  Wf  wtTe  dhHgeil  lo  iihiindoii  these  things,  we 
were  by  no  means  disposed  to  make  them  over  to 
the  Chukpas,  to  whose  malpractices  the  necessity  lor 
parting  with  tliem  was  hirgely  due.  A\e  therefore  regret- 
fully consigned  them  t(^  destruction.  Whatever  would 
i)urn  we  reduced  to  ashes,  and  of  the  costly  pile  soon 
nothing  remained  l>ul  unattached  metal  fittings  and  half- 
consiuued  leather. 

During  the  twelve  days  we  were  compelled  to  remain 
at  camp  I  carried  out  some  geodetic  measurements,  and 
Leno,  besides  assisting  me,  executed  nmch  useful  topo- 
graphic work.  To  my  regret,  it  was  impossible  during 
this  period  to  ol)tain  our  longitude  from  observations  of 
the  moon  and  stars  culminating  near  it.  For  a  time  the 
moon  was  too  young,  and,  when  it  became  sufficiently 
mature,  clouds  intervened,  so  that  my  iiiviiininary 
conjputati(jns  and  prejtaralioii  for  transit  work  were 
useless. 

Though  it  was  now  the  middle  of  August,  snow  fell 
frequently,  and  sometimes  the  ground  was  white  till 
noon. 

Our  circumstances,  on  the  whole,  were  depressing,  and 
We  were  glad  when  any  incitleiil  occurred  tending  to 
restore  the  cheerfulness  of  the  company.  There  wciv 
antelopes  in  considerable  numbers  near  the  camp,  and 
we  easily  obtained  fresh  meat.  |)uring  most  of  the  lime 
the  animals  killed  were  perfectly  lean,  but  at  length  a  fat 
tjne  was  brought  in.  and  at  1 'ike's  suggestion  liassoula  set 
about  the  construction  of  an  apple  dumpling.  Indian 
cooks  love  spices,  wdiile  Ladaki  c(joks,  undei*  the  influence 
of  Turcoman  taste,  dispense  onions  witli  a  liberal  hand. 
The  preparation  set  before  us  by  Rassoula  in  the  guise  of 
apple  dumpling  consisted  in  fact  of  a  mixture  of  onions 
and  apples  with  a  superabundance  of  spices ;  but  hungry 
travellers  are  not  over-critical,  and  we  enjoyed  the  dump- 


s/-:aw<u's  octlook.  43 

Iin^^  Our  usuul  drink  was  tea,  l)iit  on  one  evening  'and 
only  one)  we  had  recourse  to  hot  toddy,  the  chief  ingredient 
111  wliich  was  rum. 

We  knew  our  latitude  and  k)n<,ntude,  and  coukl  })oint 
out  on  the  map  tlie  spot  occupied  hy  our  camp,  l>ut  at 
that  place  the  map  was  a  hlank,  and  none  of  the  men  had 
any  knowledge  of  nur  wlicnalxnits.  The  important  ques- 
tion to  he  decided  was  wliethei-  we  should  retrace  our 
steps,  or  move  onwards  through  the  unknown  land.  We 
carefully  examined  llu'  remaining  transj)orl  animals,  ami 
came  to  the  conclusion  that  few  or  none  of  them  would 
he  ahle  to  cany  loatls  as  far  as  Fol)rang.  If  we  pushed 
on,  what  direction  should  we  take,  or  where  was  there  a 
[>racticahle  route?  The  country  was  mountainous  and 
difficult,  and  even  in  tin;  valleys  water  and  grass  were 
not  always  to  he  found.  Our  general  })urpose  was  to 
proceed  eastwards,  hut  after  full  consideration  we  decided 
to  go  towards  the  south-east  and,  where  that  course  was 
impossihle,  to  turn  to  tlu'  south  ratlu-r  than  to  the  east. 
On  August  "ilst  we  resumed  our  joui'iicy.  l>ining  llif 
niglit  heavy  rain  and  then  snow  had  fallen,  ami  in  the 
morning  the  tents  were  fro/en  into  such  an  unmanage- 
ahle  condition  that  we  had  to  postpone  our  dei)arture  till 
afternoon  when  they  were  fairly  dry. 

We  clind)ed  thi'  inevitahle  [)ass,  and  found  on  the  other 
side  a  well-marked  track  leading  down  an  easy  slope  into 
a  narrow  valley.  We  had  hi-en  compelled  to  leave  helnnd 
us  several  loads,  and,  therefore,  sending  hai-k  for  these, 
we  cami)ed  at  the  first  spot  where  we  found  water  i('ami) 
.■<.H).  There  we  oviiliauled  oiir  luggage  for  the  second 
tinu'  with  a  view  to  its  diminution.  There  were  tinned 
foods  unostly  products  of  the  P)ovril  Company),  sufierfluous 
horse-shoes,  nails,  \-c.,  and  two  tents  which  had  to  lie 
got  rid  of.  '{'he  caravan  men  were  told  they  might  take 
such  of  these  things  as  they  chose,  hut  nmst  eat  promptiv 


4-^    /y  77/''/-: /•  ./.\7>  ( /fix/isr:  rr/<Ki:sT.\\. 

\vli;iU'\fi-  i';U;ii)lrs  tlicy  look,  and  carry  oil  their  pt-rsons 
whutt'ver  not  eatable  tlioy  wislied.  Thing's  not  disposed 
of  in  this  way  (mostly  liiiiicil  foods}  were  packed  in  super- 
Huous  yak  dans  and  depusittd  in  a  cache  dn^'  on  a  dry  site 
within  an  old  sheep-pen,  about  ^ioO  yards  south  by  west 
from  Camp  'A'A.  They  were  piled  in  a  square  heaj)  and 
covered  with  a  thick  roof  of  earth  and  stones,  which 
niif^dit  serve  for  a  protection  against  wild  animals  and 
possibly  also  for  a  landmark  to  other  travellers,  'riie 
two  tents  were  given  to  the  caravan  men.  At  Lrh  iliese 
men  had  received  an  allowance  for  the  purchase  of  clothes 
f(^)r  the  journey,  but  in  most  cases  the  money  had  been 
spent  for  other  purposes.  Ladaki  caravan  men  have 
strong  confidence  in  Ki.snicf,  or  fate,  and  in  the  saliib 
whom  they  serve,  exi)ecting  him  at  all  times  and  in  all 
circumstances  to  provide  them  with  food  and  raiment. 
In  Tibet  warm  clothing  is  absolutely  necessary,  and  the 
men  who,  before  starting,  had,  in  reply  to  my  inquiries, 
saitl  they  were  "well  provided,"  or  '"no  nuitter,"  now 
eagerly  scrand)led  for  the  tent  canvas  to  mend  their 
(hlapidatcd  gai'ments. 

Jvesuming  (jur  march,  we  followed  the  continuation  of 
the  track  wliidi  we  had  found  in  descending  lr(i]ii  the 
l)ass,  and  hoped  that  it  would  lead  to  sonje  native  encanij)- 
ment.  This  hope  was  disappointed,  foi-,  after  a  fewmili-s, 
the  track  became  invisible.  I'nrtli(  r  search  revealed  many 
smaller  tiacks.  rumiing  in  different  directions  and  in- 
dicating, ai)parently,  not  tlie  i)ath  of  human  beings,  but 
(jf  kyang.  We  saw  abundance  of  excellent  grass,  but  no 
water  except  that  of  a  lake  which,  lymg  out  of  our  route, 
was  more  than  a  day's  march  (hstant,  and,  for  all  we 
knew,  might  be  salt  oi'  otherwise  unth'inkable.  After 
having  failed  to  obtain  water  by  (hgging,  I  walked  to  the 
top  of  a  low  ridge  about  a  mile  distant,  and  saw  a  pool 
not  far  oli".     Before  it  was  quite  dark   the  caravan  was 


//J..\7-:Ss    /)/•    /'/A7:".  45 

iil)le  to  reach  the  s[)(>l,  where  vvr  ohtaiiUMl  watrc  in  ahund- 
jince,  l)ut  not  ol'  very  i^^ood  (juahty. 

Pike  was  now  very  unwell  and  weak,  lie  had  |)erf?e- 
vered  in  the  march  throii^di  sheer  determination,  and, 
when  lie  I'erjained  the  eampin",^  ground,  sank  utterly 
exhausted.  A  little  rum,  undiluted,  proved  an  excellent 
restorative.  The  scarcity  of  watei-  in  this  re^non  seemed 
remarkahle,  for  there'  was  ai)undance  of  ^M'ass  for  miles 
ai"ound.  The  <,'rass  was  mostly  of  tlu^  peelee  sort,  in 
wiui-Ji  m\y  transport  aniniaU  hixiUMatcd.  and  iJani/an 
petitioned  for  a  days  rest  on  their  account.  This  request 
was  readily  f;;rantcd.  hut  chielly  on  account  of  Pike's 
illness.  This  day's  rest  ]>rovi(led  the  caiiuan  men  with 
an  opportunity  of  nii.winL;  ni-  re])airinfj  their  apparel 
with  tile  tent  cloth,  while  1  went  out  to  reconnoitre, 
b'rom  a  commanding'  hill-top,  about  seven  miles  distant, 
I  could  see  grass  in  all  directions,  hut  the  oidy  water 
visible  was  at  a  spot  far  olT  and  well  to  the  west  of  south. 
It  seemed  to  helon^f  to  a  river,  rimninj^'  in  a  wide  valley 
whose  direction,  like  that  of  most  of  the  main  valleys,  lay 
east  and  west.  P)Ut  the  rivei-  coinse,  the  further  east  it 
was  followed  by  the  eye,  became  fainter  and  fainter,  as  if 
a  ])orous  bed  absorbed  the  water.  WC  were  unwillinf*  to 
tui'ii  westwards,  and  settled  that  we  should  strike  the 
channel  several  miles  below  the  ])oint  where  the  water 
was  seen,  ^^'atel•  mi^dil  he  found  by  digging,  but,  lest 
this  hope  should  fail  lis,  the  nun  were  advised  to  drink 
copiously  and  to  till  their  bottles  before  starting.  Pike. 
stUl  wi'ak,  set  out  early,  so  as  to  get  over  as  nnich  ground 
as  possible  bi'fore  the  heat  of  the  day.  \\  hen  I  overtook 
him,  he  had  reconsidered  our  plan,  and  was  now  strongly 
in  favour  of  changing  our  diri'ction.  This  we  did,  and, 
towards  evening,  camped  iCanip  3"))  at  the  foot  of  some 
outlying  hills  on  the  north  side  of  the  broad  valley  I  had 
seen  the  dav  before.      Xo  water  could  be  found  near  the 


^r,    /.\'  iiiii-.r  Axn  ciiixesi-.    rrRKi-.siAX. 

place,  and  the  wak-r  at  ('aiii[i  -W  had  })r()ved  to  be  so 
stroiii,dy  inipir^nated  with  sochi  that  all  the  men.  except 
Leno,  arrived  not  only  thirsty  hut  wiili  ciiijtty  water 
l)ottles.  l''r(^in  a  iU'i<j^hl)onriii^'  hill  we  saw  a  lar<i;e  hei-d 
of  yak  several  miles  off,  and  it  seemed  therefore  probable 
that  water  was  within  reach.  Dass  and  two  of  the 
caravan  men,  thinking  they  saw  water  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountains  on  the  north  side  of  the  valley,  set  out  for  a 
supply  willi  all  the  empty  bottles.  It  was  now  late,  but 
there  was  clear  moonlight  duiing  the  greater  part  of  the 
night,  and  the  conformation  of  the  hills  supplied  un- 
mistakable landmarks.  It  was  not  till  noon  next  day 
that  the  tlu'ce  returned,  iind  they  canic  fi-oiu  the  (piarter 
opposite  to  that  towards  which  they  had  set  out.  They 
had  oidy  been'  partially  successful,  and  had  been  able  to 
(ill  very  few  of  the  bottles.  Fi'om  the  highest  hill-to]) 
near  tlic  c-;iiii|)  1  cncfully  examined  the  country  in  tlic 
direction  where  the  yaks  had  been  seen,  and  discovo-ed 
some  tents  at  a  distance  of  a  few  miles,  l^eing  in  doubt 
whether  the  owners  of  the  tents  were  harmless  nomads  or 
professional  rohbers,  we  thought  it  would  be  imprudent 
to  he  quite  defenceless  in  visiting  them,  and  tlu'refore 
three  or  four  of  oui-  nund)er  were  ])rovide(l  with  arms. 
Our  approach  evidently  caused  much  alarm,  and  the 
nomads,  hastily  collecting  tbeii-  large  flocks,  drove  them 
away.  The  encampment  itself,  however,  consisting  of 
about  seven  wretched  tents,  was  left  standing,  and  the 
occupants  received  us  in  the  calmest  manner. 

One  man,  who  was  making  a  numnah  clo.se  to  the 
springs,  occasionally  glanct'd  u})  at  us,  l)ut  never  stopped 
working.  Having  quenched  our  tlnrst  with  the  excellent 
spring  water,  we  gradually  introduced  the  topic  of  guides 
and  transports.  Tlie  progress  of  negotiations  was  slow, 
l)ut  at  length  one  man  seemed  disposed  to  sell  us  a  yak, 
while  another  was  willing,  for  the  modest  sum  of  two 


Mlil-.riXC.     W  I'll  I    XOMAPS.  47 

liundi-ed  rupet^s,  to  jl^ukIi'  us  to  tlie  nearest  lar<,'e  eii- 
cainpinent.  This  otter  was,  however,  refused.  ]-}el'oi-e 
the  bar^faiuin^-  for  tlie  yak  was  conehided,  the  chief  of 
the  nomads  appeared  and  not  only  forbade  the  sale,  but 
commanded  that  no  sort  of  help  should  be  given  us.  He 
said,  truly  enough,  that  it  was  against  the  laws  and 
customs  to  permit  strangers  to  enter  the  country,  and 
that  he  and  his  people  would  be  severely  punished  if  they 
supplied  guides  or  transport.  This  obstructionist  was 
obdurate,  and  would  accept  neither  payiiuiit  ikm-  presents, 
nor  even  listen  to  our  proposals.  He  said  that  the  Deva 
Zung,  the  official  head  at  Lhasa,  was  a  god,  and  would 
certainly  know  of  any  transaction  between  him  and 
strangers.  No  doubt  one  cause  of  his  determination  was 
distrust  of  the  men  in  his  own  neighbourhood.  Tibetans 
have  little  confidence  in  their  countrymen,  and  this  chief 
would  not  run  the  risk  of  being  denounced  as  a  receiver 
of  bribes,  and  subjected  to  the  severities  infhct(Ml  on  such 
delinquents. 

So  far  as  the  possession  of  coin  is  concerned,  these 
nomads  are  exceedingly  poor,  and,  indeed,  in  the  ordi- 
nary course  of  things,  have  seldom  occasion  to  use  money. 
They  are  in  a  cc^idition  similar  to  that  of  the  inhabitants 
of  the  Caucasus,  whom  1  obseived,  when  travelling 
through  that  country  in  isy.S,  to  have  no  ade(]uate 
notion  of  the  value  of  money.  .  Still,  the  Tibetans  re- 
quire arms  and  annnunition  as  wi'll  as  barley  and  othci- 
supplies  from  India  and  Ladak,  and  tlu^  means  of  pur- 
chasing these  things  ai'c  pi-ovidcil  mainly  by  the  sale  of 
wool  and  salt,  the  chicr  iiriKhicts  of  \\"(■^t('|•n  Tibet. 
The  use  of  money  is  thus  known  among  them,  but 
yet  the  offer  of  sums  which  nuist  have  appealed  lar^e. 
scarcely  tcmpiid  ilicm  in  nm  the  slightest  risk. 

It  was  not  easy  to  maki-  out  whether  tlu>  stolid  manner 
of  these  men  was  due  to  the  affectation  of   indifference 


4S    /.\'  riiii-.r  Axn  ciiixese  rrRKF.sr.w. 

c-oimuonly  practist'd  hv  Asiatics,  or  iiu'ivly  to  iiitcllcftual 
sta^Miation.  Notliin^'  could  surprise  them.  Ai-ins  were 
of  importance  to  tlicni  and  tlicv  had  nevci'  before  seen  a 
nia',M/ine  carbine,  but  our  carbines  excited  no  interest 
nor  curiosity.  A  fine  bhie  rock  pipfeon  havinj^'  ab<,dited  to 
rest  and  drink  at  a  spot  within  ran^je,  Pike  took  the 
opjiortunity  of  showinj^  the  jnccision  of  liis  wea))on. 
and  slidt  tlie  pi.m'dii.  but  not  one  of  the  Tibetans  evinced 


TIIK    AnilOlt    KKlKIVINd    TlllKTAN    VISITOUS. 


the  slightest  concern  in  any  way.  Our  ne^^otiations  foi- 
f(uides  and  transport  were  quite  ai)ortive,  but  Kanizan 
induced  three  of  the  nomads  to  return  with  us  to  our 
camp.  Hopiuf,'  to  obtain  some  advantage  from  these 
visitors,  we  enjoined  Kamzan  to  see  that  they  were 
liospitably  entertained. 

The  three  were  fed.  and  were  supplied  with  the  weed 
honoured  by  Ladakis  with  the  name  of  tobacco,  but  they 


.S7/(Mr.\'    /■///:     //7v'().\7;    /)/A'/:('77(lV 


49 


Would  ii^'ivc  to  noiii;  of  our  [nopusuls.  and  all  \sf  could 
obtain  was  a  jiroinisc  that  sonu'  of  tlicin  would  irtuni 
next  nioiiiiii;,'.  W'c  i'eco<,'nised  that  we  had  luadt;  a 
niistaUr  in  \isitin;^  the  nomads  instead  of  scnchn^' 
Kani/an  and  a  few  Ladakis,  who  woidd  have  hi-m  ahk' 
lo  allay  suspicion.  W'c  ,mit  ncithci'  ^aiidcs  nor  transports, 
hut  had  to  I'ontcnt  ourselves  with  inl'orniation  concerning' 
llu'  Ijest  route  to  the  larL,^'  eneanipnuMit  at  (ier;j;e.  \'\)V 
the  Sinn  of  tiw  ruiiees,  paid  hy  ni\  own  hand,  one  of  the 
nomads  [lointitl  out  to  Leno  and  Jtam/aii  the  general 
direction  which,  he  said,  sliould  he  taken.  This,  as 
it  was  subsequently  pointed  out  to  nie  hy  J^eiio  from 
a  nei^'hboiirin^'  hill-top,  was  hy  no  means  in  accordance 
with  my,  ideas  of  the  best  natural  line  to  follow.  Init 
the  Tibetan  alle^'ed  that  l)y  this  route  alone  water  would 
he  foumh 

On  the  morning'  oi  the  tlnrd  day  from  our  arrival  here, 
we  resumed  (»ur  journey.  Pike  started  early  and.  several 
hours  afterwards,  when  the  mules  and  ponies  had  returned 
from  watei'in;^  at  the  nomad  cam[)  and  Kam/an  had 
reported  all  present.  1  set  out  alone.  Cioini,'  in  a  straij^ht 
line  to  strike  the  route  which  had  been  pointed  out  tome, 
1  reached,  in  about  li\c  hours,  a  pool  of  nniddy  water 
which  1  sup[)osed  indicated  the  spot  intended  i>\  the 
Tibetan  for  our  campin^^-^jrouiid.  .\fler  a  li^^ht  repast 
of  bread  and  meat  with  miiddv  water.  1  set  dut  to  climb 
the  adjacent  mountain,  hojim^^  to  obtain  a  ;;ood  view 
from  the  top:  but  here  the  ))ros[)ect  was  interrupted  by 
other  hills,  and  it  was  not  till  1  had  climbed  another  and 
then  a  thinl  sunnnit  that  I  could  survey  the  re«,Mon. 
Throuj^di  the  clear  mountain  air  I  could  see  in  the  far 
distance  kyan*^  and  antelopes,  but  neither  near  nor  far 
off  was  ther(>  any  sij^ns  of  muli's  or  [)onies.  Water,  as  1 
understood,  could  hi*  h»und  only  on  the  pnnu-r  route. 
There  was  abumlauce  of  water  at  the  spot  where  1  had 


50     /.\'    ///./:/    J.\/'    Lii/XF.Sr.     TCRKI-STAX. 

halteil.  iiiul  I  i-niild  Hot  suj)])()sr  lliut  1  Inid  tiikcii  llic 
wroiij,'  coursi'.  I  tilled  my  bottk'  I'rom  tlif  pool  and 
started  to  look  for  the  caravan.  It  seemed  most  pro- 
bable that  it  was  moving  aloii^^  a  m-i^dihoiniii^'  valley 
which  1  hopetl  to  cross  before  dayli^dit  failed.  I  pushed 
on,  but  c(nUd  see  no  living'  thing  except  kyang,  which 
inquisitively  circled  about  me,  and  before  I  had  gained 
the  near  side  of  tlu'  valley,  darkness  overtook  me.  The 
place  was  bleak  and  barren,  producing  not  even  the 
familiar  boortza.  which  would  have  served  at  least  for 
fuel.  1  had  no  food,  and  no  drink  but  nuiddy  water:  I 
could  light  no  lire  for  warmth  or  for  signal,  and  in  these 
circumstances  I  had  to  face  the  unpleasant  fact  that  I 
was  lost. 


ciiAi'Ti:!;  IV 

Lost  ill  the  (U'scrt — Found  In  I'iku  -  Siuldcii  endiiig  of  a  rivor — 
Kccounoitring — Kiituriiig  iiihabiti-d  country  —  Gorge  —  Xegotia- 
tioMs  witli  Tibt'trtiis--In<|ui8itivc  —  Medicine  useless — ^  Kneniy 
strongly  reinforced  No  assistance  obtainaMe — We  decide  to 
start  at  all  costs -Expected  tight  IVaceful  departure  False 
news— lierclie — Arranging  for  transport — Natives  willing  to  assist 
us  Fear  of  severe  punishments — ("ompelled  to  return  to  Ladak — 
I'eparture  from  (ii-rclic-  Alternative  routes  -J)irticultyof  survey- 
ing Scarcity  of  grass  and  water  Dreadful  sore  backs — Treat- 
ment of  woiMitls—  Uecurd  ( )\  is  Amnnm  liead. 

"jX  rV  tirst  tliiiii^lil  Wiis  to  sL'C'k  [)i-(>t('t.-tioii  i'ntin  ilu'  i-cild 
■^^^  wind  in  soiur  ilry  walcr-courso,  wIutc  1  mi^'ht  sleep 
till  the  moon  rose;  but  this  purpose  had  to  he  ;il);uidoned 
oNviii;,'  to  the  lowness  of  tht-  temperature,  whieh  ehillcd 
me  iiiul  kept  iin-  ;i\\:ikc.  hi  the  eoiirse  of  Dur  journey  we 
hiid  reeently  descended  iihout  1,000  feet,  and  as  the  air  at 
the  lower  level  was  of  course  nuieh  warmer  than  at  the 
j^'reater  altitude,  I  had  temporarily  discarded  a  ^'ood  deal 
of  my  woollen  underclothin<,',  and  had  even  laid  aside  inv 
;,'loves.  Consequently  I  was  exceedin«j^ly  sensitivi'  to  the 
cold  ni^'ht  air,  and,  io  prevent  complete  sta^Miation  of  tlu' 
hlo(»d,  was  ol)li;;ed  to  keep  nii»vin<,'  on.  l'\'elinf^  hun^'ry,  I 
ti^ditt'ncd  my  belt  and  then  wandered  on  in  tlu'  dark  up 
the  valley.  I  shouted  often,  and  now  and  then  tireil  a 
shot  in  the  hope  of  ;ittr;i<liiiL;  attention,  hut  echoes  were 
the  only  reply.  Afti'r  some  hours  the  moon  rose  and  I 
had  snlVicitut  li«:ht  to  search  for  the  track  of  the  caravan. 


5  J     /.\'    TiniiT   A\D    C7//.\7:S/':    7  CA'/\/-S  /\l  X. 

I  ascended  to  the  narrowest  part  ol'  the  valley,  crossed  and 
re-crossed  it,  and  made  a  minute  examination,  but  there 
was  no  indication  tliat  the  caravan  had  been  there.  This 
was  exceediii^^iy  disa|i[>(iiiiliii,L;,  and  made  it  necessary  to 
change  my  course.  I  was  now  tired,  somewliat  footsore, 
and  very  hungry,  but.  to  avoid  frostbite  and  other  evils,  1 
was  obliged  to  continue  my  I'xei'tions.  1  liad  then,  as 
always,  the  chronometer  watches  in  my  belt,  but  1  lUNcr 
carried  a  compass  lest  it  should  affect  the  watches.  1  bad 
•therefore  to  guide  my  course  by  the  stars,  l)nt,  as  the 
night  was  clear,  1  had  no  dit'tieulty  in  making  Mire  of  my 
direction.  My  only  physical  comfort  was  the  water- 
bottle  ;  its  contents  were  nuuldy,  l)ut  to  a  parched  mouth 
an  occasional  sip  was  refreshing.  1  felt  thankful  to 
Providence  that  my  fellow-traveller.  Pike,  was  a  iiian 
worthy  of  absolute  conlidence,  whom  J  knt'w  Jiotlnng 
Would  induce  to  leave  the  neighbourhood  till  I  was  found. 
This  assurance  kept  u[)  my  spirits,  and  \  sought  a  short- 
cut over  the  hills  to  the  point  from  which  I  had  started  at 
dusk.  The  mocMi  was  often  hidden  behind  mountains, 
then  it  disappeared  altogether;  the  way  was  dark  and 
rough,  but  I  stumbled  on,  generally  only  half-erect,  some- 
times falling  over  stones  or  sudden  ineciualities  of  the 
grounch  Occasionally  I  bad  to  rest  for  a  fewmimites,  but 
the  cold  wind  chilled  jue  to  the  marrow.  The  mininnnn 
temperature  registered  at  the  camp  on  tbat  night  (August 
'28th)  was  '22°  F.,  a  temperature  low  enough  to  cause  keen 
discomfort  to  one  thinly  clad,  hungry,  and  facing  a  stiff 
mountain  breeze.  I  have  often,  in  other  circumstances, 
watched  for  daybreak,  and  w^elcomed  the  rising  sun,  but 
never  before  with  such  anxiety  as  on  that  morning.  In 
the  grey  dawn  1  reached  the  spot  whence  I  had  set  out  to 
search  for  the  caravan,  and,  resting  a  few  minutes,  I 
looked  down  the  broad  valley  and  thought  I  could  discern 
through  the  morning  haze  the  smoke  of  our  camp-fire.  In 


f.osT  /x  riir.  niisi'.RT.  5.^, 

this  case  the  wish  niiglit  rasily  l)i'  laUiLT  lo  ilic  tliou^Mit. 
but,  as  I  gazed  more  intently,  the  vapour  partially  dis- 
persed, and  I  was  certain  that  the  appearance  of  smoke 
was  no  illusion.  The  distance,  however,  was  several  miles, 
and,  as  I  was  weak  through  fatigue  and  hunger,  T  had 
frequently  to  halt.  The  tall  column,  rising  vertically 
from  the  camp-fire  through  the  peaceful  morning  air,  was 
full  of  interest,  suggesting  food  and  rest  and  every  com- 
fort. As  I  plodded  on,  my  eyes  were  fixed  upon  it,  and  so 
absorbed  was  T  in  its  contemplation  tViat  it  was  almost  a 
surprise  when,  about  lialf-past  eight,  I  saw  V\Vo  and  one 
of  the  caravan  men  on  mules  close  beside  mc.  Tlu'V  had 
brought,  among  other  supplies,  the  favourite  restorative, 
a  mixture  of  rum  and  water.  This  proved  highly  bene- 
ficial and  I  remarked  tliat,  for  one  in  my  wcakeiicd 
condition,  tli(>  ])ro])ortiori  of  spirit  was  judicious,  and  di<l 
not  err  on  the  side  of  too  much,  to  which  Pike  laughingly 
retorted  that  even  in  my  weakened  condition  1  liki>d  my 
li(luor  strong,  for  the  bottle  had  contained  more  i-uiii  than 
water.  Having  had  a  hearty  hreakfast  of  cold  meat  and 
biscuits,  1  climbed  the  mule  that  Pike  had  ridden  and, 
with  feelings  of  relief  and  general  goodwill,  rode  back 
towards  camp.  About  eleven  o'clock  we  approached  the 
caravan,  where  most  of  the  men  were  seated  round  the 
fire.  They  eame  streaiiiiiiL;  out,  salaaming  to  nie  and 
expressing  tlieir  hojx's  that  I  had  not  suffered  uiueh  from 
spending  a  night  in  the  open  air.  Towards  them,  how- 
ever, my  gratitude  was  not  ov(>rtlo\ving  ;  1  re]ilied  that  my 
absence  seemed  to  lia\c  caused  them  no  anxiety,  ainl  thai 
they  evidently  cared  nothing  for  their  sahih  so  long  as 
they  were  supplied  witli  food  and  other  cond'orts. 

1  at  once  agreed  to  lake's  suggestion  that  we  sh(»uld 
halt  for  the  day.  and  soon  I  was  soimd  asleep  on  Nature's 
couch,  th(^  groimd.  The  har(^  ground,  if  hiirl\  dry  and 
moderat(dy     free     from     stones,    provides    an     adnnraide 


54    /.v  77/;/: T  ./.w)  r///.\7:'.s7-;   rr/a</-:sT.\x. 

slet'i)iii^'-pl;u-i'.  iuid,  alter  foiisidt'riihlt'  cxpcrit'n'jr  in 
various  j)arts  of  tlir  woild.  I  have  no  synii>atliy  with 
tliiist'  wlio  rt'j,Mr(l  as  a  liaidsliip  tlic  iicccssity  lof  this  use 
of  mother  eai'th.  'PraveUers  should  ui>t  put  thciusclves  to 
needless  ineonvenii'nce.  Captain  ^ Dun^diushand  {^ives 
fjood  advice  when  lie  says,  "Travel  as  comfortably  as 
circumstances  will  permit,"  and  comforts  should,  when 
possible,  be  extended  to  the  sul)ordinate  inend)('rs  of  the 
caravan.  liut  often  the  inconveniencr  of  unwieldy 
bafTtra^^e  far  outweit,'hs  the  benefit  which  tlie  eund»rous 
articles  can  f,dve.  and  the  luxuries  which  can  most  easily 
b<-  dispensed  with  are  such  thing's  as  camp-beds,  chairs 
and  tables. 

'i'he  river  beside  which  we  had  camped  was  the 
l)amtan<,f  Tjunf,'pa.  Near  Camp  3")  it  had  sunk  sn  fai" 
into  the  gfround  tbat  the  water  could  not  be  reached.  i»ut 
here  it  had  a  fairly  broad  channel  and  we  had  no  anxiety 
on  the  score  of  water.  As  we  proceeded  alontr  its  rifjjht 
bank,  we  passed  numerous  disused  workinf^s  (probably  for 
fjold)  all  very  close  together,  and  many  of  them  com- 
municating with  each  other.  The  openings  were  ver}^ 
small,  varying  from  about  two  and  a  half  to  four  feet, 
and  the  depth  of  the  deepest  shafts  was  about  or  (at  least 
in  one  case)  rather  more  than  twenty  feet.  Hares  were 
plentiful  at  this  place,  and  from  the  general  a[)pearance 
it  was  clear  that  the  <]igging  had  been  abandoned  for 
several  years.  l*'urther  on.  after  a  short  march  we  found 
that  the  river  again  disappeared  within  the  porous  earth, 
and,  f(jr  the  sake  of  obtaining  water,  we  had  to  camp. 
The  aspect  of  the  surroimding  country  was  gloomy,  and 
the  lofty  mr)imtains  seemed  to  bar  the  way  towards  the 
large  Tibetan  encampment  of  wjiich  we  had  been 
infonued.  In  the  din^ction  we  proposed  to  take  we 
coidd  find  no  indication  of  water,  nor  even  of  njoisture, 
till  Pike,  having  made  a  long  reconnaissance,  saw,  from 


liXTiiRixc;  i\ii.\iuTi-:n  cocxtry. 


33 


;i  coiuiuaiuiin','  point,  a  small  sj)iin^'  to  llif  east  of  our 
intended  course.  Before  striking'  oui-  tents  at  Canip  .'iU 
we  noticed  a  solitary  Til)etan  approaching',  and  sent  one 
(»f  onr  men  to  invite  him  into  the  camp.  The  visitor 
pretended  to  he  m  seaich  of  jioiiies  whii-h  had  heen 
stolen,  l)ut  we  had  no  doiiht  that  news  of  us  had  ivached 
(ler^^e,  and  that  th.is  man  had  i)een  sent  from  head- 
(piarters  to  watch  and  report  on  oui'  movements.     After 


111.1.1  ^.S.-v    l;l;l\ul\..    1  1.1..->1M,- 


some  Weli-fri^^ncd  linu  lilin^'ncss  he  agreed  to  lead  lis 
within  si^dit  of  tin'  I.'ul-^  of  (hT^c.  which,  h.'  >>aid.  were 
(hstant  two  day^'  march. 

.\fler  this  aurrrniiiit  had  hrcn  concluded  Wf  set 
out,  tiie  animals  heiti;,'  heavily  laden,  thou^di  all  of  them 
were  very  emaciated,  and  half  of  them  had  troid)lesome 
sores  on  their  ha(d<s.  Kamzan.  with  his  usual  want  of 
jud^MU(>nt,  mtcndc.l  that  the  caravan  should  cros^  a   loftv 


56    /.V    TiniiT  AXn   CIIINliSE    'JTRKl-STAX. 

pass  and  travel  several  miles  beyond  it  to  the  next  camp- 
ing; ground,  hilt  tliis  arrangement  was  discovered  in  time, 
and  we  turned  aside  to  the  spring  which  Pike  had  seen 
the  day  before.  The  sjn'ing-water  proved  unfit  for  the 
use  of  man,  and,  as  tlu'i't>  was  too  little  of  it  to  be  of 
service  for  the  animals,  we  had  to  ply  the  pick  and  spade 
to  procure  a  sulticient  drinkable  supply.  Another  day's 
march,  during  which  our  guide  stuck  to  us,  brought  us 
almost  within  sight  of  the  native  encampment  at  Gerge, 
and  then  the  Til)etan  speedily  disappeared.  Here  were 
numerous  flocks  of  sheep  and  goats,  and,  far  apart  from 
these,  at  the  east  end  of  a  long,  narrow,  salt  lake,  and 
close  to  a  small  marsh,  we  found  a  few  tents  with  inhabi- 
tants, "We  pitched  our  camp  on  some  dry  ground,  slightly 
above  the  level  of  the  marsli  ;ind  close  to  a  small  hole, 
from  wliich  all  the  drinking-water  of  the  encampment 
had  to  be  lifted  with  ladles.  After  we  had  erected  our 
tents  and  had  l)egun  to  enjoy  the  shelter  they  afforded 
against  the  rays  of  the  sun,  a  petty  official  came  to 
Tiamzan  to  inquire  who  we  were  and  where  we  meant  to 
go.  l-{anizan,  wlio,  like  other  Argims,  was  quite  accus- 
tomed to  lying,  gave,  without  hesitation,  a  circumstantial 
account  of  otu'  proceedings.  I'ike  was  a  mei'chant  rctui-n- 
ing  from  Turkestan  to  ]>atang,  and  1  was  a  skilful 
medicine  man  willing  to  be  of  service  if  there  were  any 
sick  in  the  Tibetan  encampment.  How  the  statement 
regarding  Pike's  status  was  received  we  were  not  informed, 
l)ut  the  offer  of  my  assistance  was  promptly  declined. 
They  had  a  medicine  man  of  their  own  and  would  have 
nothing  to  do  with  a  stranger.  This  was  unfortunate,  as 
medical  practice  among  them  might  have  served  many 
useful  purposes.  During  the  afternoon  some  Tibetans 
became  unpleasantly  inquisitive,  manifesting  a  strong 
desire  to  inspect  and  handle  everything  they  saw,  and  for 
some  hours  thev  huncr  about  the  tents.    I  was  disinclined 


XRCOTfATfONS    WITIf    TinETAXS.         ^7 

to  he  communicative,  beiii^  engaged  ut  some  cniiiputa- 
tions,  and,  perhaps  observing  this,  tliev  hcstowuMl  most  of 
their  attention  on  Pike's  quarters. 

Our  visitors  were  greatly  surprised  at  the  smaUness  of 
our  comi-»any.  They  told  us  they  had  been  warned  to 
look  out  for  a  force  of  '2,000  men,  commanded  by  twelve 
European  officers,  and  had  received  orders  to  turn  it  liack 
at  once.  AVhere,  they  asked  again  and  again,  were  the 
rest  of  our  men?  We  gathered  that  exaggerated  informa- 
tion concerning  our  expedition  had  lieen  sent  to  Ijhasa  long 
before  our  departure  from  Leh,  and  that  strict  orders, 
followed  by  a  reminder  every  foitniuhi,  had  been  iV\>- 
patched  from  the  Tibetan  capital  lo  all  lli<'  l'(Onb<.^  in 
Western  Tibet  to  watch  and  regularly  i-cporl  nn  tlic 
moveiiicnts  of  this  force.  The  Poudtos  bad  searched  all 
tlic  known  routes,  and  we  had  only  avoided  their  atten- 
tion by  finding  a  route  for  ourselves,  ivamzan  protested 
in  vain  that  these  reports  were  false,  and  we  fell  more  and 
more  under  the  suspicion  of  being  concerned  in  a  subtle 
scheme  for  the  invasion  of  the  capital.  One  of  the 
caravan  men,  bowcNcr,  was  equal  to  the  occasion,  and. 
having  struck  up  a  warm  IVicndship  wilh  a  Tilietan 
visitor,  assured  liim  in  the  strictest  conlidcncc  that  the 
remainder  of  our  force  had  been  packed  away  m  the  yak 
dans  and  baggage. 

This  explanation,  repeated  in  the  Tibetan  encampment. 
l)roved  highly  satisfactory,  and,  thereafter,  we  and  our 
belongings  were  regarded  with  respect  and  awe.  \\  c.  in 
turn,  were  surprised  at  the  smaUness  of  the  nomad 
encampment  at  Gerge.  but  subscMpiently  we  ascertained 
that  this  name  was  applitnl  not  merely  to  this  spot,  but 
ilso  to  the  adjacent  tract  of  country  when'  the  numerous 
valleys  afforded  shelter  and  concealment  to  many  other 
groups  of  tents  with  a  considerable  population. 

About  dusk  the  visitors  retired  to  their  own   tents  and 


58     /X    TIBET  .IX/)   C/nXRSR    TURKESTAX. 

left  me  quite  free  to  pursue  iny  asti'onomical  work. 
About  daybreak  T  took  observations  of  the  j^rincipiil 
peaks,  and  had  my  tlieodoHte  packed  up  again  before  our 
neighbours  emerged  from  their  al)odes.  During  the 
morning  a  servant  of  the  Pombo  came  to  make  inquiries, 
but  we  refused  him  an  interview,  teUing  him  that  if  his 
master  wished  for  information  he  ought  to  come  in  person. 
Throuirh  our  caravan  men  we  ascertained  that  there  was 


A    TinKTAN    TKNT. 


in  CJerge,  a  Kuhi  trader  on  liis  annual  visit  for  tlic  pur- 
chase of  wooUand  gold,  and  that  lie  had  a  pony  which  he 
was  willing  to  sell.  We  were  seriously  in  want  of  trans- 
port, having  lost  by  death  or  robbery  forty  animals,  while 
of  the  twenty-six  remaining  half  had  sore  backs.  The 
pony  offered  to  us  was  not  young,  and  the  price  asked 
was  exorbitant,  but  we  concluded  the  bargain,  paying 
50   rupees   down    and    giving   a   cheque   on    a    bank    at 


WE    UPHOLD    OCR    DIGXITY.  59 

Lucknow  for  another  50  rupees.  Gold  is  not  dealt  in  at 
Gero[e,  but  at  Tliok  (lerclie,  a  place  about  two  days' 
journey  to  the  south-west.  There,  as  we  were  informed, 
traders  bought  it  at  1()  rupees  per  tola  of  about  180 
grains.  This  price,  at  Is.  4d.  per  rupee,  would  be  about 
equivalent  to  i'2  lOs.  lOd.  per  ounce.  Whether  the 
Tibetans  were  over-reached  would,  of  course,  depend  on 
the  purity  of  the  gold. 

Pending  the  arrival  of  the  Pombo,  Leno  was  able  to 
execute  some  topographical  work,  wdiile  I  again  set  up 
my  theodolite  and  prepai-ed  for  observations  at  night  to 
determine  the  deviation  of  the  compass.  For  work  of 
this  sort,  T  invariably  set  up  the  instrument  by  daylight, 
since  it  was  almost  impossible  to  do  so  with  accuracy  l)y 
lamplight. 

Later  in  the  day  a  messenger  came  from  the  Pombo, 
who  had  just  arrived  in  the  native  encampment  from 
some  outlying  place,  and  w^e  were  informed  that,  as  it 
was  not  his  custom  to  transact  business  in  the  evening, 
he  would  visit  us  early  next  morning.  We  w'ere  ready 
to  receive  hnn  early  next  morning,  but  he  kept  us 
waiting.  Companies  of  mounted  men,  armed  with  guns 
and  swords,  began  to  ap])car,  and  there  was  a  considerable 
display  of  force  within  100  yards  of  our  tents.  The  delay 
of  the  Pombo  seemed  due  to  the  desire  to  impress  his 
own  people  with  a  sense  of  his  importance,  and  it  seemed 
our  duty  to  uphold  our  dignity  in  a  corresponding  manner. 
When,  after  noon,  the  great  man  was  announced,  we 
took  time  to  deliberate,  and  then  sent  him  word  that  it 
was  contrary  to  our  custom  to  attend  to  importnnt  ati'airs 
till  we  had  finisluMl  mit  midday  re]iast.  Having  di^votcMl 
about  t\\()  liours  to  oui"  simple  iiu'al,  we  bad  ;i  nuiiiiiali 
spread  for  the  I'oiiilio  in  my  iciii,  mid  iinitcd  liini  to 
enter  and  be  seatcMl.  1  Ic  had  assuincil  iliat  his  company 
might  enter  along  with   him.  hut,  to  his  displeasure,  was 


Cx)    /.y    TllU-.r   ./.\7>    ClIIXIiSF.     'J(/</<I-.ST.\X. 

inronui'd  hy  lv;iin/;in,  who  Jicted  as  inLfipivtcr,  tliat  wu 
could  not  he  inducod  to  discuss  any  niattor  of  business  in 
presence  of  his  servants.  The  menials  being  kept  out- 
side the  interview  went  on,  and  proved  eminently  unsatis- 
factory. \\'c  told  him  that  we  meant  to  travt^l  towards 
the  east.  i)iit  had  ncitlici-  the  intention  imr  tlic  wish  to 
go  near  Lhasa,  and  we  asked  him  for  assistance  in  obtain- 
ing guides  and  transport.  He  re])licd  that  he  could  not 
assist  us  to  travel  in  that  direction  witlmut  ixTiiiission 
from  his  superiors,  and.  to  obtain  this  permission,  lie  was 
willing  to  send  to  Jiudok.  He  could  not  receive  a  reply 
from  Kudok  in  less  than  sixteen  days,  and  we  could  not 
piissiliiy  wait  so  long.  We  told  him  that  we  meant  to  go 
iti  i'lalaiig.  and  would  set  out  next  day,  with  oi- without 
his  assistance.  This  was  mere  bi'ag  on  Diir  part  Cor, 
owing  to  the  state  of  nur  cummissariat  :ind  lr;ms])ort, 
such  a  journey  would  have  been  (juite  impracticable, 
^forcovei-.  a  rumour  had  I'cached  us.  doubtless  oi'iginated 
i»\'  the  rdiiibd,  that  a  few  days'  uiafeli  to  the  east  of 
(ierge  there  was  a  large  body  of  Chukpas.  Still,  it  was 
necessai-y  to  seem  resolute.  Sn  long  as  we  presented  a 
i)old  Iroiit  with  some  appearance  of  strength  in  reserve, 
the  Tibetans  were  not  likely  to  use  force  against  us.  Tlie 
o])position  we  met  was  mostly  passive,  and  the  Pombo 
was  evidently  taken  aback  by  our  re])Iy.  He  now  asked 
us  to  wait  for  five  or  six  days,  and  asserted  that  within 
that  time  he  would  be  able  to  obtain  instructions  from 
an  f)tticial  of  higher  rank  than  himself.  W'e  re])eated 
our  determination  to  pi-oceed,  and  the  l'oiiil)(»  liiitlni- 
modified  his  proposals  by  offering  to  supjjly  us  w'ith  food 
till  the  necessary  instructions  should  be  received.  We 
replied  that,  if  one  day's  supplies  were  produced  at  once, 
we  would  accept  this  offer,  but  if  they  were  not  speedily 
forthcoming  we  would  adhere  to  f>ur  plans.  It  seemed 
evident  that  this  offer  of  the  Pombo  was  not  made  in 
f'ood  faith,  for  we  heard  no  more  of  it. 


i-.xriiCTi'.n  I- Id  I  IT. 


6i 


'I'lir  niounted  nun  i-i»nliinie(l  to  assenihle,  and  their 
demonstrations  had  a  \ciy  di^pressin^'  (.'tU'ect  on  our  timid 
Ladaki  caravan  nu  ii,  who  j)Iaiiily  showed  that,  if  matters 
shouhl  proceiMl  to  I'Xtrt'initics,  no  assistance  could  Ije  ex- 
pected from  them.  Threats,  made  Ijy  tlie  l'ond)o  and  his 
peo[)le,  were  eirt-ulatt'd.  and  we  were  warneil  that  our 
pro^'ress  eastwards  ccndd  only  he  eti'ected  over  their  dead 
hodies.     Underneath  these  attempts  at  intimidation  there 


rillKTANs   SllOuri.Sci 


did  not  apprar  to  he  very  much  reality,  and  1  had  no 
douht  that  it  liuditin^  hecame  necessary  our  ma^'azine 
carhines  would  he  haniUed  with  suHicieiit  etfeet  to  dis- 
perse the  enem\.  I icuo  had  heen  al)le  to  «^et  from  the 
trader,  Dilsuk  I  Jam.  some  information,  which  at  the  time 
seemed  credihle,  eoiicernin;,'  tlu'  dilYerent  routes,  and  wc 
now  hoped  that  tiiis  information  mi;,dit  he  serviceahle. 
Al)andonin<,'  our  pm-pose  to  advance  eastwards,  wc  a^'reed 


62   /.v  Tiiu-.r  Axn  ciiixiisi:   /ikkhsiax. 

to  make  for  K;iiii,'ri.  where,  at  the  annual  fair  lield  in  the 
autumn,  we  mi^^lit  pmchase  sufticient  suppHes  and  trans- 
port to  enahle  us  to  reach  Ahnora.  The  position  of  Kan<,ai 
we  did  not  know,  but,  acconhn^'  to  l^ilsuk  Kam,  there  were 
three  praetieahle  routes  leachnjjj  to  it.  The  most  direct 
route  was  to  the  west  of  suutli  :  another  hiv,  at  first,  to 
the  east  of  soutli ;  and  the  third,  the  easiest  but  lon^^est, 
hiy  for  two  marches  in  a  westerly  direction  along  the  valley 
in  which  we  were  now  camped.  Having  decided  on  the 
first  of  these  routes,  wx'  served  out  abundance  of  annnuiii- 
tion  to  Leno,  Sanman,  the  two  Sikhs,  ]Jass,  and  two  of 
the  caravan  men,  with  strict  orders  that  no  shot  was  to 
be  tired  except  by  our  connnund,  or  in  reply  to  the  fire  of 
the  Tibetans.  Our  preparations  caused  great  excitement 
among  the  armed  men,  more  than  two  hundred  in 
nunil)er,  who  watehrd  us  from  the  eastern  side,  at  a 
distance  of  about  a  (juartei'  of  a  miU'.  They  had  their 
ponies  close  by,  and  presented  a  rather  formidable  appear- 
ance, so  that  Pike  and  I  thought  fighting  not  improbable. 
We  kept  the  caravan  in  close  order  and  went  more  slowly 
than  usual,  that  the  sheep  might  not  be  left  behind.  To 
our  surprise,  no  opposition  was  offered,  and  we  began  our 
advance  in  the  direction  Dilsuk  Eam  had  pointed  out. 
Here,  however,  we  could  find  no  track  nor  any  feasible 
line  of  eountry,  and  we  were  obliged  to  turn  westwards 
along  the  easy  valley  route.  This  movement  seemed  to 
indicate  an  intention  of  returning  to  Ladak,  and  explained 
the  finally  pacific  attitude  of  the  Tibetans. 

It  was  necessary  now  to  search  for  a  way  across  the 
mountains,  and  for  this  purpose  we  camped  at  the  south 
side  of  Lima  Kingma  Chaka  (Long  Far-distant  Salt-place), 
beside  fresh  water  and  grass.  Soon  after  unloading  we 
observed  four  mounted  men  who  halted  not  far  to  the 
west,  and  we  despatched  Kamzan  to  ascertain  what  they 
wanted.     They  professed  to  have  been  sent  to  guide  us 


n/</-: An /■('/.  sokh  hacks.  63 

westwards,  but  no  (loul>t  their  chief  purpose  was  to  keep 
us  uudei-  observation.  One  of  them  asserted  there  was 
no  route  southwards  across  the  nioiuitains,  but  said  that 
his  own  tent  was  only  two  or  three  marches  distant,  where 
lie  would  be  willing'  to  sell  us  some  rice.  He  also  promised 
to  guide  us  towards  l\;mi;ri  if  Kamzaii  would  be  silent  on 
the  subject. 

From  'rhurj^'o  {('amp  1'))  there  was  a  route  leading  to 
Thok  Jaiun^.  wliert'  ^old  was  said  to  be  found,  ami  to 
Kudok  and  Kangri,  but  the  dread  of  punishment  was  too 
great  for  the  man  who  had  promised  to  guide  us,  and  he 
now  refused  to  accompany  us,  even  for  one  march,  in 
that  direction.  We  seriously  thought  of  trying  to  force 
our  way  unaided  out  of  Tibet  by  the  Kangri  rt)ute,  but 
the  dit'ticulties  were  seen  to  be  insurmountable,  and  we  at 
length  rekictantly  agreed  to  return  to  Ladak,  having 
rect'ived  a  promise  that  guides  and  sutticient  transport 
would  be  provided  for  us.  There  was  now  a  pros])ect  of 
relief  for  our  exhausted  animals  and  an  o[)portunity  of 
attending  to  their  sores.  Neither  medicine  nor  external 
applications  had  been  of  any  avail  while  they  were  daily 
loaded  with  galling  burdens,  but  with  other  transport  in 
prospect  I  hoped  U)V  pernument  improvement.  I  care- 
fully dressi'd  their  wounds,  thoroughly  washing  them  and 
applying  a  soluti(tn  of  per-chloride  of  mercury  in  the  pro- 
portion of  I  to  I ,()()()  paiis  of  watrr.  This  task,  whieli  1 
had  to  perform  with  my  own  bands,  was  the  most  un- 
pli'asant  which  fell  to  my  lot  during  the  course^  of  the 
expedition.  The  appearaiu-e  of  the  sores  and  their  smell 
were  sickening,  and,  in  two  or  three  eases,  tlu^  lotion 
applied  at  one  spot  emerged  through  otlur  a])iitui-<'s  in 
the  withers  and  back. 

As  soon  as  the  fresh  transport  had  bi-en  obtained  we 
left  Thurgo  on  the  return  journey  to  Ladak,  under  the 
guidance  of  an  armed  and   well-mounted  Tibetan  escort. 


64   /x  T//urr  .i.v/)  c/f/x/is/':  tcrki-istax. 

We  hiul  not  ^oiu"  tar  wlu-ii  it  hocauu!  clear  that  we  were 
to  be  led  by  a  len^^tliy  I'oiite.  an  aiTaii^ciuent  w  liieli  suited 
me  admirably,  as  it  provided  an  ()p[)()rlunit\  for  the  survey 
of  a  widt'  tract  of  country.  To  make  sure  thai  this  course 
would  be  adhered  to.  1  at  once  vi<;()rously  protested 
against  it,  and  insisted  on  being  taken  the  shortest  way. 
Being  tohl  that,  by  the  short  route,  the  passes  were  lofty 
and  difficult,  I  acquiesced,  with  a  bad  grace,  in  the  escort's 


KKCUlll)    OMS    .\.\1.M<>N    1II:a|). 


arrangement.  1|\  the  easier  route  the  passes  were  of 
sufficient  height  to  ta.x  our  energies,  one  of  them, 
apparently  not  regarded  as  formidalde,  being  1(5,700  feet. 
The  large  escort  rather  liampered  our  movements,  and,  in 
the  survey  work,  we  liad  to  take  precautions  against 
exciting  suspicion.  Leno,  attended  by  two  caravan  men 
who  carried  the  plane-table  and  stand,  invariably  lagged 
behind,    and    contrived    to    elude    the    attention   of  the 


RECORP   0]'/S   AMMOX   llli.\l\  65 

Til)etans,  who  only  uskttl  wliv  llicsc  tlin-i-  iiicii  wore 
always  condemned  to  carry  loads  so  that  they  anivol  in 
camp  after  ever}'  one  else. 

As  we  [)r()ceeded  it  became  dit'ticiilt  to  find  ^^ood  water, 
and.  alterwards,  water  ol"  any  sort  became  so  scarce  that, 
but  for.  the  <,niides,  we  shoidd  scarcely  bave  been  able  to 
find  it.  The  tiny  springs  were  generally  concealed  in 
narrow  side  vallejs;  grass  also  became  scarce,  and  our 
wretched  animals  fared  so  badly  that  two  of  them  bad  to 
be  shot.  We  found  several  skulls  of  ovis  amnion,  or 
Hodgsoni,  and  probably  living  specimens  of  this  sheep 
were  not  far  ol't'.  but  time  did  not  admit  of  our  searching 
for  them.  One  line  head  wliich  we  picked  up  near  Camp 
41)  was  57  inches  long  and  LS'j  inches  in  circumference  at 
the  base  of  tlic  horns.  This,  according  to  Kowland 
Ward's  '*  l\ecords  of  Big  (iame,"  which  is  the  standard 
authority  on  the  subject,  is  undoul)tedly  the  largest  known 
head  of  an  oris  (luunoii . 


CHAPTKK  V 

(lood  water — Difficult  ascent — Hard  work — Departure  of  our  escort — 
Mountain  sickness — Game  very  wild — Misled  by  guide — xVnnoy- 
hv^  ponies — Trying  ascent  to  a  hiU  station — News  of  Chukpas — 
Guides  propose  an  attack — Division  of  ^^o\\ — Keze  Chaka — 
ILihva — Enforced  short  marches — Bad  state  of  transport — Feel- 
ings of  Tibetans  towards  Europeans — Pombos — Taxes — Curious 
beliaviour  of  sick  mule — Dusty  camp — Frozen  ink — Waterless 
camp — Strange  river — In  search  of  lUmdor — Flashing  signals — 
Reliable  news  of  Rundor. 

TN  this  part  of  the  country  good  water  was  difficult  to 
-*-  tind,  and  day  alter  day  we  were  oldiged  to  content 
ourselves  with  such  natural  solutions  of  salt  and  soda,  or 
such  muddy  mixtures  as  the  neighbourhood  supplied. 
We  could  tliink  of  no  method  of  removing  the  salt  and 
soda,  but  by  b(jiling  the  muddy  li(]uid  and  adding  a  mere 
pinch  (if  pi)\vdcred  alum  a  fairly  clear  water  could  be 
olttained.  The  privations  i)i  the  wilderness,  however, 
have  their  compensations,  and  the  springs  of  water,  fresh 
and  pure,  on  w  hicli  we  at  length  lighted  not  only  relieved 
our  anxiety,  but  gave  such  keen  enjoyment  as  only  those 
who  liave  suti'ered  from  similar  inconvenience  can  under- 
stand. 

About  a  week's  journey  from  Thurgo  we  approached 
the  tine  snow-clad  mountains  of  Lari  Fobrang,  or  Lari 
Phai,  and  spent  some  time  in  measuring  bases  and 
observing  the  height  of  this  as  well  as  of  Thachap  Gangri 


n.iRn   WORK.  67 

and  (Jtlier  promiiii'iit  peaks.  All  such  lUDUiiiain^  an- 
closely  associated  with  the  ancient  religious  worship  (jf 
i\\v.  inhabitants.  The  wild  forces  of  nature  are  per- 
sonified and  deilied  :  the  goddess  Devi  especially  is 
supposed  to  haunt  the  summits  and  the  passes,  where 
wind  and  fro.st  and  snow  are  in  the  c(jmmon  course  of 
things.  At  the  head  of  each  frequented  pass,  travellers 
are  supposed  to  make  some  offering  to  this  divinity. 
It  may  he  only  a  rag,  a  scrap  of  sheep-skin,  or  a  stone, 
hul  in  some  [ilaccs  mounds  or  pillars  of  stone  have 
i)een  erected,  and  111  others  the  structures  are  of  the 
skulls  of  animals. 

.Vl  Kun/um  (Caniji  -A  we  halted  to  give  our  beasts  of 
burden  a  two  days'  rest,  and  as  soon  as  our  escort 
heanl  of  our  purpose  they  announced  their  intention  of 
departing.  The  direct  route  to  Ladak,  which  we  had 
professed  ourselves  desirous  of  following,  lay  l)y  lludok, 
a  place  whicli  the  ollicials  at  Cierge  and  Thurgo  seemed 
determined  that  we  should  not  visit.  The  longer  route 
gave  us  better  geographical  results,  and  the  escort,  per- 
ceiving that  we  were  not  likely  to  alter  our  plans, 
relieved   us  of  their  com])any  but   left   us  the  guides. 

.\t  Kiiii/Miii  till'  \allty  afforded  gooil  shelter  from  the 
wind,  but  was  .so  narrow  as  to  render  the  measurement 
of  a  base-line  ratlu'r  troublesonu-.  On  the  hills  above 
the  camp,  where  the  wind  was  high  and  the  temju  iMture 
low.  our  woik  had  to  be  aci-omplished  under  great  dilli- 
cuities.  licno  and  1  observed  and  recorded  by  turns,  but 
even  with  this  division  of  labour  the  exposure  was  pro- 
longed, and  rosulte(l  in  chills  which  necessitated  recour.so 
to  the  medicini'  chest.  Smvi-y  work  was  diversified  by 
attention  to  tlie  uncomplaining  animals,  who.se  sores  1 
washed  and  dressi'd.  while  I'ikfWriit  out  to  makr  imo- 
vision  lor  our  larder.  \'ak  were  plentiful  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood,   anil   one  day.   looking    from   a   hill    station,  I 


68    /x  rini-.r  wn  ciiixi-.si-.   iri<Ki-.srA\\ 

iU)tK'c(l  limi  husily  (li,seliar;;iii^  lus  eailjiiie  at  a  liiii' 
animal  which  would  not  yield.  The  stream  of  ■HO;i 
bullets  appeared  to  have  no  effect  except  to  enrage  the 
yak.  and  Pike's  aiiiiimiiilion  was  soon  exhausted.  The 
attack  had  lie-in  in  a  iiarniw  valley  with  steep  sides, 
where  there  was  not  very  iiiiu  li  chance  foi'  I'ike  if  iiis 
^veapon  failed  him,  but  he  coiilii\cd  to  reach  a  lar^'c 
projecting  rock  inaccessible  to  the  pursuing  yak.  His 
urgent  signals  showed  that  he  was  in  straits,  and  1  at 
once  dispatched  Nurbu  (the  Ladaki  shepherd)  with 
ammunition,  which  he  speedily  delivered.  The  next 
report  of  the  rifle  was  the  death-knell  of  the  amnial 
which  had  made  so  good  a  defence.  After  the  carcase 
had  been  skinn(^d  and  cut  u]>,  we  went  in  search  of 
another  yak  winch  had  been  wdunded.  For  a  couple  of 
hours  we  tracked  him  and  a  tlnrd  wliich  had  joined  him, 
and  at  last  I  was  able  to  get  a  long  shot,  Init  he  galloped 
away  as  if  uninjured. 

Tile  effects  of  the  atino-pheric  conditions  at  these 
altitudi's  seemed  curiously  inconstant.  Here,  at  1(),G80 
feet  above  the  sea,  most  of  the  Arguns  complained  of 
headache,  though  at  greater  elevations  they  had  suffered 
no  inconvenience.  So  disti'essed  were  they  now  tlial 
they  refused  t(j  pai'take  of  the  fresh  meat  which  was  their 
favourite  food.  Leno.  on  the  last  day  at  Camp  51,  was 
also  ill.  Ijut  Sanman,  Dass,  and  the  two  Sikhs  were  not 
affected.  Th(jse  of  our  coin]ia7iy  who  smoked  found 
some  difficulty  in  gratifying  th(  ir  taste.  The  pipe  was 
easily  lighted,  but  vigorous  suction  was  required  to  keep 
the  smouldering  fire  in  existence,  and  the  violence  of 
this  exertion  seemed  more  than  the  satisfaction  was 
worth.  >o  that  t'Veii  haliitual  smokers  like  I'ike  were 
content  with  an  occasional  whiff.  Being  a  non-smoker 
I  was  not  troubled  in  this  way,  but  1  was  annoyed  at  the 
serious  reduction  in  the  illuminating  power  of  the  candles, 


(lAMJ-.    \'I:RV    wii.n.  71 

and  also  l)y  tiic  (tiiumulioii  in  llit-  hral  llu'V  ^mvc  out. 
Tlic  lattiM"  may  seem  a  matter  of  small  account.  I)iit  it 
icsultfd  in  wax  clo<,'^nn^'  tlic  canillc-liuldcr  and  hlockin^f 
the  npwanl  passa^'c  ot"  the  tlanic. 

Ht'twccii  ThoncluuC'amp  tO)  and  Kunzum  \\v  had  seen 
little  or  no  •j[anie,  a  fact  which  seemed  attrihutahle  not 
to  the  presence  of  nomads  hut  to  tlie  com])aratively  low 
altitudes.  Bower,  in  the  narrative  of  his  plucky  journey 
across  Tihet,  states  that  antelope  are  seldom  found  helow 
lo.OOO  feet,  and  we  in  our  wanderinj^s  never  saw  one  at 
a  lower  level.  Here  they  were  in  fjreat  numhers,  hut 
were  so  wild  that  we  could  seldom  ^'et  within  ranj^'c  for 
an  elVective  shot. 

At  Chukyar  (f'ami)  WX)  T  was  fortunate  enou^di  to  shoot 
a  tine  hull  yak  after  a  lon^'  and  rather  exciting'  stalk.  The 
temperature  was  very  low,  and  in  skinninj,'  tlie  carcase 
we  had  to  keep  ourselves  warm  hy  nu'ans  of  a  fn"(>  of  dry 
dun*,',  which  was  fanned  into  a  ^dowini,'  mass  Ity  a  steady 
hree/.e.  in  the  process  of  cuttin^,'  u|),  howcvti-.  wf  found 
the  natural  heat  of  the  animal's  hody  suthcient.  The 
m»'n  took  to  camp  as  nnu-li  meat  as  could  he  used  ami 
also  as  mui-h  as  could  he  carried  on  oui"  next  march,  hut 
they  Were  lU'velojiin;,'  a  taste  for  ^|>i)it,  and  next  day  llit\ 
shot  anothei"  yak.  ()idy  the  ihnat  i)f  il(|iri\  uil,'  tin  ni  of 
tiieir  annntmition  could  make  them  hrlicve  that  we 
((hjectcd  to  wanton  slau;^litrr. 

I'sually  iMke  or  1  went  on  ahead  of  the  caravan,  the 
•,'uides  having'  explicit  and  often  repeated  instructions  to 
halt  at  any  jilace,  wlnih  they  considered  suitahle  for 
campin;,'  <^M<)und.  .\fti'r  leaving'  Camp  JC)  I  was  (Mi«;er  to 
reconnoitr(\  and  with  one  of  the  ^juides  [)ushed  far  in 
advance,  hoping  to  ohtain  from  a  connnaiKhnj;  lu-ij^ht  a 
»j;ood  view  of  the  surrounding'  country.  We  readied  a 
spot  with  a  few  small  pools  of  moderately  ;,'ood  water 
and    plenty  of  i;rass,  where   my  ;^ui(le  si«;nalled   to  me  to 


72     IN   TinET  AXn   CIIIXESE    Tl'RKESTAX. 

lialt.  He  promptly  removed  the  saddle  Irom  his  pony 
:ind  1  speedily  followed  his  example,  supposing  that  this 
was  to  be  our  resting-place  for  the  night.  We  took  our 
frugal  midday  repast  of  bread  and  meat,  and  then, 
leaving  our  animals  loose  among  the  grass,  set  out  on 
foot  towards  some  adjacent  hills.  When  we  had  finished 
our  reconnaissance  we  returned  to  the  pools,  hut  found 
no  sign  of  the  caravan.  In  my  eagerness  to  explore  the 
neighbourhood  I  had  thought  too  little  of  the  weakness 
of  the  transport  animals,  which  now  with  difficulty  could 
travel  ten  miles  a  day,  a  distance  which  my  guide  and  I 
had  exceeded  a  good  deal.  We  therefore  sought  our 
ponies,  l)ut  they,  rejoicing  in  their  liberty,  would  not 
be  caught.  They  seemed  to  delight  in  the  annoyance 
they  gave,  circling  round  us  and  approaching  so  near 
that  I  could  once  or  twice  touch  them  but  was  unable 
to  grasp  the  head  collar.  I  succeeded  at  length  in 
getting  hold  of  the  guide's  pony,  but  all  efforts  to  catch 
my  o\\n,  which  was  of  stronger  build,  failed.  The  large 
saddle  I  placed  on  the  small  pony,  balancing  it  carefully, 
for  the  girths  were  quite  useless,  and  then  rode  slowly 
back,  attended  by  the  guide,  who  carried  his  own  saddle, 
while  my  pony  giimbolled  roun<l  him  at  a  few  yards' 
distance. 

At  C'am[)  57  our  caravan  remained  two  days,  while  Pike 
went  on  to  Charol  or  Shenien  Cho  to  boil  thermometers 
and  (obtain  a  view  of  the  region  through  which  we  should 
have  to  pass.  Leno  and  I  devoted  ourselves  to  climbing 
mountains,  sketching,  and  looking  for  sites  for  hill 
stations.  To  the  north-east  of  our  camp  there  was  a 
lofty  mountain  which  connnanded  a  wide  tract  of  country, 
and  we  had  no  doubt  of  finding  on  it  a  suitable  spot  for 
one  of  our  stations.  For  the  second,  however,  we  had 
more  difficulty  in  discovering  a  convenient  place.  Leno, 
attended  by  a  number  of  men,  took  the  theodolite  to  the 


./    nili'ICCLT   CUM II  71 

niouiitiiiii  on  the  iioitli-eiist,  and  I  set  out  with  one  man 
towards  the  sontli-west  wlieie  there  was  a  lofty  range 
wliich  sci'incd  hkcly  to  suit  our  purpose.  For  a  long 
time  1  struggled  to  reach  the  top,  but  the  sides  were 
of  loose  shale  and  very  precipitous.  I  dreaded  having  to 
return  to  camp  battled,  aiul  for  hours  kept  perseveringly 
at  work  until  I  was  rewarded  by  reaching  the  crest, 
where   T    was   nbli'    to   idenlifx-  Tjuri    Fobiang   and  other 


I  IKl.    >ll"\\  INi 


peaks  whic'li  had  been  h.xed.  The  men  with  Ticno  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  valley,  many  miles  tHstant.  had  beiii 
told  to  keep  a  good  look-out  for  mr.  and  so  well  did  they 
carry  out  this  oidcr  that  bd'ore  the  pillar  at  my  hill 
station  was  eomjilctc.  it  \\;is  used  as  a  point  in  Ftiio's 
observations.  Ne.xt  day  the  theodolite  was  with  threat 
labour  carried  to  this  new  station,  and  carefid  observations 
wi're  made,  which  comjileti'd  the  geodetic  measurements 
at  this  camp. 


74     AV    rnUlT  AXn    CIIIXESE    rrKKESTAN. 

Before  we  left  Cainp  'u  ;i  few  'I'ibetans  iiniwd  w  iili 
supplies  for  tlu"  guides  am]  llie  men  in  eliarf,^3  of  the  yaks. 
The  coming  of  these  men  seemed  to  cause  a  good  deal  of 
excitement,  which  was  explained  when  Kamzan  found 
leisure  to  repeat  to  us  the  news  they  had  brought.  It 
was  reported,  he  told  us,  that  two  of  the  Chukpas  who  had 
been  hit  by  Utam  Singh  near  Camp  31  had  died.  The 
Chukpas  were  much  dreaded  by  the  peaceful  Tibetans, 
and  the  tidings  gratified  and  cheered  the  guides,  as  well 
as  inspired  them  with  a  wholesome  respect  for  the 
carbines.  The  report  seemed  the  more  satisfactory  to 
the  natives  because  they  believed  there  was  then  a  band 
of  Chukpas  in  our  neighbourhood.  Our  visitors  professed 
themselves  most  eager  to  attack  the  robbers,  and  we  were 
interested  in  eliciting  their  plan  of  campaign.  Their  idea 
of  fighting  was  to  send  us  to  make  the  onslaught  wdiile 
they  remained  behind  to  defend  our  camp.  After  this 
division  of  labour  the  plunder  was  to  be  divided  also  ;  we 
should  hand  over  the  yaks  and  sheep  to  our  allies,  and 
retain  the  nudes  and  ponies  for  ourselves.  To  the  simple 
Tibetans  the  arrangement  seemed  just  and  fair,  especially 
as  without  tlic  infoi'mation  they  had  given  we  sIkjuUI  not 
have  known  that  the  robbers  and  their  booty  were  at 
hand.  Our  guides  and  their  friends  were  grievousl}'  dis- 
appointed when  we  told  them  that  we  had  no  quarrel 
with  these  Chukpas,  and  would  not  attack  them  except  in 
self-defence,  or  for  the  recovery  of  our  goods. 

The  visitors  soon  departed,  and  the  guides,  when  free 
fi"()ni  the  consti'aint  of  their  presence,  became  (juite 
friendly  towards  us.  One  of  them  was  especially  cheerful 
and  hard  t\'orking,  and  both  assisted  in  building  pillars  on 
points  of  observation.  They,  of  course,  did  not  under- 
stand the  purpose  of  the  pillars,  but  were  satisfied  with 
Kamzan's  answer :  Sahibs  are  strange  people ;  they  do 
strange  things,  and  give  strange  orders;  but  their  servants 


r(\]rBOS  ,1X7)    TAxns.  75 

must  obey.  Unfortunately,  Kanizan,  like;  many  better 
men,   did  not  live  up   to  his  own  theory  of  duty. 

Our  daily  fare  was  plain  and  admitted  of  little  variety. 
Usually,  for  a  second  course,  we  had  a  small  shape  of  rice 
boiled  in  water,  but  at  this  season  on  these  chill  altitudes 
this  was  almost  invariably  served  half-frozen.  One  even- 
ing Leno  sent  to  ask  us  to  partake  of  a  sweet  dish  which 
his  cook  had  prepared,  and  this,  simple  as  it  was,  we 
found  a  pleasant  change.  "Halwa"  was  its  name,  and  it 
consisted  of  flour,  ghee,  and  a  little  sugar. 

Our  marches  here  were  short,  for  the  transport  animals, 
inider-fed  and  over-worked,  were  very  emaciated.  From 
the  guides  we  gained  nuicli  information  concerning  the 
localities,  lakes  and  rivers  of  this  part  of  the  country,  and 
the  descriptions  we  received  were  afterwards  corroborated 
by  a  friendly  and  intelligent  official  named  Nymget  Sring, 
to  wdiom  we  were  otherwise  indebted  for  assistance.  We 
observed  many  indications  of  good-will  on  the  part  of 
natives  who  w^ere  not  officials,  and  only  the  risk  of  detec- 
tion by  the  Pombos  prevented  them  from  giving  at  any 
time  information  and  active  help.  Apart  from  the  special 
pur[)()se  for  which  they  were  employed,  our  guides  were 
not  unconnnunicative,  aud  we  could  occasionally  gather 
fragments  relating  to  their  customs  oi-  t<i  the  li:inlshij)s  i)^ 
their  daily  life. 

The  Tibetans  ai'c  poor,  and  such  possessions  as  thev 
have  consist  of  flocks  and  herds,  yd  ihey  are  heavily 
taxed.  One  tax,  collected  i)y  the  Poiiibos.  is  levied  in 
money  or  in  kind  at  the  rati'  of  about  50  rupees  for 
every  80U  sheep  and  six  yaks  w  hich  the  natives  own.  It 
is  understood  to  be  the  duty  ol  the  Pombos  to  hand  over 
tlu'  [)roceeds  to  the  ( loxcnuiicnl  at  Lhasa;  but  the 
Pombos  are  appointed  oidy  for  three  years,  and  their  pay 
is  little  more  than  nominal,  consisting  of  som(^  tea,  cloth, 
and  food,  so  that  they  are  popularly  credited  with  retain- 


76   IX  Tiiurr  Axn  Chinese  tvrkestan. 

ing  Tor  their  own  use  no  small  pai-t  of  the  amount 
contributed  by  the  population.  To  what  persons  they 
hand  the  l)ahince  is  doubtful,  but  it  seems  probable  that 
the  contributions  pass  tlu-ough  the  hands  of  several 
grades  of  of'ticials,  and  that  only  a  small  portion  of  the 
total  reaches  its  proper  destination.  The  second  tax  is 
collected  by  the  Lamas  who,  in  the  case  of  non-payment, 
either  punish  the  defaulters  themselves  or  employ  the 
Pombos  to  enforce  the  exactions  m  accordance  with  the 
sacred  law  book  of  the  country.  The  most  common  form 
of  punishment  is  by  fine,  but  imjDrisonment  is  also 
awarded.  This  penalty,  however,  is  only  inflicted  in 
Lhasa  and,  perhaps,  Shigatze,  and  the  criminals  im- 
prisoned are  mostly  thieves.  The  death  sentence  is  passed 
only  in  Lhasa,  and  only  on  murderers  and  spies ;  it  is 
carried  out  by  tying  the  cul[)rit  in  a  yak-skin  and  throwing 
him  into  the  river. 

The  manner  in  which  the  Tibetans  dispose  of  their 
dead  seems  somewhat  akin  to  that  in  use  among  the 
Parsees.  The  bodies  are  carried  to  the  top  of  a  high 
mountain,  where  they  are  cut  up  and  left  to  become 
the  food  of  ravens. 

Tibetan  habits  are  in  one  respect  curiously  different 
from  those  of  h^uropean  mountaineers.  In  Scandinavia 
or  in  Switzerland,  the  flocks  and  herds  are  driven  from 
the  hills  to  the  valleys  at  the  approach  of  winter,  but  in 
Western  Tibet  the  sheep  and  goats  are  driven  to  the 
lofty  ground,  when  the  snow  begins  to  cumber  the 
valleys.  The  heights  are  constantly  exposed  to  winds 
which  sweep  them  clear  of  snow,  so  that  they  usuall}^ 
present  some  pasture  available  for  the  hardy  flocks  of  the 
country.  In  these  regions  there  seems  to  be  no  great 
snowfall ;  on  the  heights  it  is  certainly  slight.  We  could 
discover  scarcely  any  trace  of  avalanches,  and,  though 
we  sought  to  determine  the  snow-line,  we  could  find  very 


CURIOUS    BEHAVIOUR    OF  MULE.         79 

few  (lata  on  which  lo  ,^\nieraHse.  No  well-marked  liiuit 
could  be  traced,  but  probably  little  snow  lies  all  the  year 
round  in  Western  Tibet  under  20,000  feet. 

The  conditions  here  were  trying  for  the  transport 
animals,  and  though  relieved  of  their  burdens  and  care- 
fully tended,  some  of  them  became  so  weak  that  they 
had  to  be  shot.  One  very  fine  mule,  which  had  regularly 
carried  the  instruments,  behaved  so  strangely  at  Camp  61 
that  we  were  concerned  about  her.  When  driven  out  to 
grass  she  promptly  returned  to  camp  and  took  up  a 
position  close  to  my  tent.  Then,  showing  symptoms  of 
colic,  she  lay  down,  partly  on  my  tent,  at  a  spot  close 
to  the  medicine  chest,  from  which  large  doses  of  opium 
and  calomel  were  thereafter  taken  and  poured  down  her 
throat.  Having  a  good  constitution  and  a  tough  inside, 
the  animal  survived  both  the  colic  and  the  medicine. 

This  neighbourhood  contained  many  lakes  which  showed 
sicns  of  a  frreat  contraction  in  area.  The  salt  lake  at 
the  west  of  Kaze  C'haka  nmst  formerly  have  been  several 
hundreds  of  feet  deeper  than  now.*  At  some  places  we 
were  troubled  with  dust,  but  in  this  respect  Camp  68  was 
by  far  the  worst. 

By  the  beginning  of  October  the  mininuim  thermoilieter 
fell  to  within  a  few  degrees  of  zero  F.,  and  soon  after 
sunset  it  was  impossible  to  write  with  ink.  The  liquid 
froze  in  the  bottle  unless  it  was  held  in  the  hand,  and  in 
that  case  the  drop  on  the  pen  nib  became  solid  before  it 
could  be  transferred  to  paper.  I  was  obliged  to  record 
observations  in  pencil  and  subsequently  to  transcribe 
them  by  the  camp  fire,  or  in  a  sunny  place  screened  from 
the  cold  wind. 

The  guides   now   told    iis    tlial    our   way  was   towards 
Kundor,    which    was    not     lar    off.    but     tlie    nearer   we 
ap]">roached   it,    the   more   luiccrtain   they    seemed    as    to 
■  See  Appendix  I.,  page  389. 


8o   /.y  77 /:/rr  .i.v/)  c/ifxiis/i  rrRK/'.s/wx. 

wlial  dircctidii  to  tiikc.  They  ])r()inis('(l  to  iiiid  siiitalilc 
camping'  ^froimd  with  ahiiiulance  oi'  water,  l)ut  in  this 
they  (lid  not  always  succeed.  At  ^fairhok  (Camp  ()('))  the 
animals  had  to  be  provided  witli  watci-  obtained  from 
melted  snow.  From  this  point,  howcxcr,  we  had  a  view 
of  a  fairly  large  stream,  and  the  prospect  of  camping 
beside  it  next  day  kept  our  spirits  up.  Tn  the  morning 
we  looked  for  the  stream,  but  couM  [x  rcci\c  no  trace  of 
it;  we  clind)ed  a  stretch  of  rising  ground  whicli  coiu- 
manded  a  view  along  the  valley,  but  no  running  water 
could  be  seen.  Yet  we  had  not  been  deceived  ;  the  river 
did  exist,  but  ilowed  intermittently.  At  Chagnaiiguja 
(Camp  ()7)  we  found  tliat  it  was  tlic  lialn't  of  the  stream 
to  visit  that  spot  alnnil  noon,  and  to  continue  its  course 
during  the  rest  of  the  day,  but  promptly  to  stop  when 
night  set  in.  This  peculiarity  was  doubtless  caused 
partly  by  the  action  of  the  sun  on  the  ice  oi-  snow,  and 
partly  by  the  porous  nature  of  the  river-l)ed.  but  \\c  had 
not  time  to  make  a  minute  investigation.  We  attempted 
to  store  water  by  constructing  a  small  dam,  in  the  hoj^e 
of  obtaining  a  pure  sup})ly.  liut  our  efforts  were  vain  ; 
as  the  llow  decreased  the  stored  supj)ly  vanished  tbi-ougli 
tlie  ground,  and  we  had  to  be  content  with  tlie  nniddy 
water  which  came  at  intervals  with  a  rush  as  if  from  a 
newly-opened  sluice. 

We  wished  to  ascertain  the  position  of  the  place  called 
iiundor,  whose  very  existence  now  seenu;d  doubtful,  and 
was  accepted,  not  on  the  strength  of  the  guide's  asser- 
tions, but  on  the  word  of  Xurbu,  the  shepherd,  who  told 
us  that  he  had  visited  the  place  several  times,  going  from 
Ladak.  We  therefore  sent  l\amzan  ahead  on  my  riding 
pony,  attended  by  one  of  our  guides,  to  reconnoitre,  while 
Leno  and  T  betook  ourselves  to  the  work  of  surveying. 
We  found  some  inconvenience  from  the  want  of  helio- 
graphs.    A  small  folding  mirrtjr  liad  to  serve  the  purpose, 


Klil.lMU.Ii    MiWS    01-    Kl'XnOK. 


Si 


<and  an  alpenstock  was  used  to  ali^ni  tlic  sun's  rays  so 
that  the  surveyor  in  the  valley  could  make  his  si^Mials 
visihlc  to  the  www  on  llir  liill,  who  in  linii,  tlioii^h 
untrained,  were  ahie  to  use  a  second  mirror  \\  ith  sutticient 
exactness.  Here  we  spent  three  days  in  surveyinf,',  and 
then  resumed  our  inarch.  We  had  not  ^'one  far  when  we 
met  liamzan  returnin^^  from  Kundor,  accomjjanicd  hy  two 
natives  of  the  place,  which  we  were  told  was  (Hstant  two 
days'  journey. 


CliAi'Ti:K    \I 

Ranizan  sent  to  Ladak — His  excuse  for  delaying — Pike's  love  of 
cold  water — Aiino.ving  caravan  men — Rundor — "  Presents  "  from 
Pombo — Fresh  transport — Names  of  jilaces — Large  glacier — The 
Nabo  La — Mountain  sickness — Saninan  again  disobedient — The 
last  halt — Cold  weather  —Accident  to  theodolite — End  of  survey- 
ing— Strange  visitor — Rassoula's  '*  konka  " — Grass  and  fuel  very 
scarce — Death  of  animals — Our  scribe  Rassoula — Sending  for 
tran'sport  and  supplies — Shooting  ponies — Arri\al  of  men  from 
Lutkum — Wood  at  last — The  waterless  camps — Arrival  at 
Lutknm — Return  to  Leh — Tiic  Zoji  La  in  winter — Frozen  to 
death — End  of  journey. 

r)A^rZAN  and  his  new  friends  from  Rnndor  informed 
*■'  us  tluit  the  Poml)o  had  f,'one  to  Ladak  to  purchase 
l)arley  and  other  supplies  for  his  own  people,  and  since  in 
his  absence  there  was  little  probability  of  the  nomads 
providinj^'  us  with  sufficient  transport  for  the  remainder 
of  our  journey,  we  resolved  to  act  independently  of  them. 
Fobranj,'  was  the  nearest  village  in  British  territory,  and 
tliither  wu  decided  to  send  Hamzan  to  ])iocure  the  neces- 
sary animals.  liy  much  talkin<,f  and  liberal  promises  he 
contrived  to  obtain  a  guide,  but  no  })ony  could  be  bought 
or  l)orrowed.  and  I  had  to  give  him  mine.  We  had 
sufficient  food  for  ourselves  and  the  caravan  men,  but 
the  barley  was  almost  used  up,  and  Kamzan  was  in- 
structed to  arrange  for  a  fresh  supply,  as  well  as  for 
chopped  straw  for  the  animals.  His  orders  were  to 
hasten,   but  he  was  in   no  hurry  to  start,  and  in  reply 


r/K/i'S    /lU-/'    01-    COLD    \VATI:I<.         S:; 

to  my  remonstnuK-es  lie  iiiiidc  sncli  i-idiculous  jind  im- 
possible excuses  as  are  commonly  used  by  Jjadakis, 
asserting  that  lie  would  certainly  make  up  for  lost  time 
l)y  travellin<T  night  and  day. 

Our  ])rogress  to  Kundor  was  slow  and  on  the  wa\'  we 
had  ditlieuhics  and  annoyances  to  overcome.  Tlic 
weather  had  become  very  cold,  and  wbcn.  as  on  the 
mornings  ol'  October  iHth  and  I'.lth,  the  thermometer 
showed  a  temperature  witbin  i^'  of  zero  F.,  I  was  tempted 
to  pay  less  attention  than  usual  to  my  ablutions.  Pike, 
however,  with  the  rigour  of  a  S[)artan,  al)ated  no  jot  of 
the  morning  ceremony.  My  (occasional  use  of  water 
raised  by  the  camp  tire  a  little  above  the  freezing  point, 
was  regarded  by  him  as  a  sign  of  luxurious  softness.  He 
was  unmoved  by  accidents  of  the  weather,  and  when  the 
water  was  changing  to  icicles  or  when  only  mnnelted 
snow  was  at  hand,  he  only  rubbed  the  more  vigorously. 
When  our  tent  was  so  situated  as  to  catch  the  first  rays 
of  th«!  morning  sini.  a  difference  of  temjierature  was  very 
perceptible;  but  we  c-ould  not  always  have  this  advantage. 
A  trying  part  of  my  work  was  the  observation  of  Collie's 
poi-tablr  barometer  at  seven  in  the  morning  and  nine  in 
the  evening  (local  lime),  an  operation  in  wliicli  gloves  had 
to  be  discai'ded.  In  uiij>acking  tlu'  instrumi'nt.  in  reading 
its  indications  and  repeating  llie  readings  until  three  of 
them  agreed  to  witbin  dOl  df  an  incli.  an<l  in  again 
packing  up  tlie  mstiuiuent,  a  good  deal  of  time  was 
occupied,  and  my  lingeis  often  became  so  numbed  that 
the  work  had  to  be  intenupted  till  the  eireidation  was 
restored. 

Then  we  had  a  good  deal  of  annoyance  fi-om  the  want 
of  a  modi'rately  competent  caravan  bashi  to  s(>e  that  our 
onlers.  wliirli  were  never  exacting,  were  duly  carried 
out.     Tbe  men   coidd   not   be  trusted   to  do  as  they  weic 

liild     llldess    tlie\-     Were     under     eonslailf     silpelA  isii  in.    and 


S4   /-\'  TiiU'.r  A\n  ( mxh'.si:   rii<i<i:sr.\s. 

soiuetiiiu's  tlii'ir  tlisoht'difiici'  was  j)ntV()kin^'.  Inslriiclioiis 
were  given  that  certain  of  llic  aiiimals.  being;  unlit  lor 
work,  sliouUl  he  exempt  from  carrving  burdens.  'I'be 
orders  were  elearly  understood  by  the  men,  and  then 
disregarded.  To  llie  worst  oft'ender,  callous  to  the 
suft'erings  of  the  mules,  I  administered  two  blows  with 
a  stick  which  disconcerted  him  so  nnich  that  he  lay  down 
on  the  ground  and  howled  that  I  had  killed  him.  The 
lusty  voice  in  whieh  he  bewailed  his  punishment  showed 
that  he  iiad  received  no  injury,  but  ridiculous  as  his 
behaviour  was,  tlie  necessity  of  enforeing  compliance 
with  orders  by  sucli  imans  was  exceedingly  disagreeable. 

The  two  Kundor  men  whom  Kamzan  had  introduced 
into  our  camp  were  accompanied  by  two  large  and  ujjly 
dogs.  One  of  them  very  soon  showed  a  great  antipathy 
to  strangers,  but  as  he  kept  at  a  respectful  distance  from 
me.  1  thought  little  about  him.  As  he  became  more 
accustomed  to  our  presence  he  seemed  to  lay  aside  his 
enmity,  and  when  we  reached  the  Churti  watershed  he  ap- 
peared quite  friendly.  But  his  friendship  was  feigned,  for, 
observing  me  defenceless,  engaged  in  tlie  needful  work  of 
collecting  dung  f(»r  fuel,  he  took  advantage  of  tlie 
opportunity  and  seized  me  by  the  calf.  My  position  was 
distinctly  disagreeable,  but,  at  length,  the  brute  loosened 
his  h(»ld  and  I  was  able  to  reach  my  rifle.  By  that  time, 
however,  he  was  in  full  retreat  and  presented  such  a 
small  and  rapidly-moving  target  that  the  bullets  did  him 
no  harm. 

Kundor,  we  found  was  nothing  more  than  an  encamj)- 
ment  of  nomads.  Our  guides  had  led  us  to  believe  that 
it  was  a  very  large  one,  but  though,  as  regards  area,  it 
was  large,  embracing  the  valley  running  east  and  south  of 
Nabo  La,  the  tents,  so  far  as  we  could  see,  were  few  and 
the  population  small.  No  doubt  tlie  numerous  side 
valleys  which   afford   shelter  and  grazing  for  cattle,  and 


'•/7v7:\S/:.\7".S  ■    IkOM    I'OMJiO.  S5 

conct'jilnit'nt  Iroin  the  Cliukpiis,  wore  also  sparsely 
inhabited.  Soon  after  we  had  pitched  our  camp  at 
Kanioyoj(nia,  tlie  Kiindor  Tonibo's  Deputy,  Nymget  Sring, 
paid  us  a  visit.  He  gave  us  milk  and  cheese,  nominally 
as  presents  hut  really  in  the  hope  of  receiving  a  more 
valuable  gift.  In  our  route  there  were,  at  no  great 
distance,  two  rather  (litlicull  passes,  and  our  pur[)(isr  was 
to  cro.ss  these  anti   thin  wait   for  the  return  of  (»ur  men 


I.AIUIK    Ot^CIKIt    NKAII    TIIK    NABO    \.\    (|-AKk). 


from  Fobrang.  \\  »•  entered  mto  negotiations  with 
Nymget  Sring,  and  after  nuich  talking,  lie  agreed  to  sidl 
us  barley  and  t<»  supply  us  with  ten  yaks  at  the  rate  of 
twelve  annas  per  march  for  «'ach  aninuil.  for  at  U-ast  three 
days.  This  arrangement  suited  us  vj-ry  well  and  was 
prol)ably  an  advantageous  ouf  for  Nvm;,'«t  Srin^'.  In 
such  circiniistauiM's  it  was  the  custom  of  the  otVicials  to 
connhandeer    the    ammals    or    provisions    recpiired.    but 


86     /.\'   TUUiT  AM)    C///\/:S/-     TLKKIiS/'AX. 

never   to   liaiid    ovit    lo    llif    owiur    tin-    payniciil    lliey 
received. 

Nymget,  a  cheerful  iiiuii  and  well  disposed  towards  us, 
agreed  to  accompany  us  till  we  should  meet  the  men  from 
Fobrang.  Having  set  out  from  Rundor.  w'e  advanced 
on  the  ascent  of  the  Nabo  La.  and,  preparatory  to 
crossing  the  ridge,  camjxd  foi'  the  night  at  Larcha. 
Here  the  height  was  about  17,430  feet,  but  no  incon- 
venience was  felt  by  any  of  the  men,  except  Tara  Singh 
who  complained  of  a  headache,  due  probably  to  an  over- 
abundant mv^al  the  previous  day.  The  Nabo  La  had  been 
mentioned  to  us  as  not  higli,  a  description  which  I  would 
not  (|uite  adopt.  The  eastern  slope  we  found  gradual  and 
easy.  We  passed  a  very  large  glacier  wliich  projects  well 
into  the  main  valley,  its  foot  being  at  an  altitude  of  about 
17,700  feet.  Frequent  halts  were  necessary  to  rest  the 
men  and  animals,  but  without  too  much  exertion  we 
reached  the  top.  There  we  found  the  usual  heap  of  stones 
and  skulls,  and  this  afforded  us  some  shelter  from  the 
cold  west  wind  wlien  we  proceeded  to  boil  thermometers 
for  the  determination  of  the  height.  Two  caravan  men 
sujiplied  more  effectual  protection  by  holding  their  filthy 
and  vile-smelling  sheepskins  round  me,  and  at  length  the 
various  difficulties  in  the  way  of  lighting  the  candle  were 
overcome.  The  hypsometcr  screen  was  so  admirably 
designed  that,  as  soon  as  the  candle  was  lighted  it 
burned  freely  and  without  waste,  no  additional  shelter 
being  required.  The  hypstnneters  gave  the  altitude  as 
is.KSO  feet.  The  aneroid  barometer  which  I  carried  went 
below  fifteen  inches,  the  lowest  point  to  which  it  was 
graduated,  and  there  stuck  fast,  showing  an  estimated 
altitude  of  l'.),7()0  feet.  What  height  the  instrument  would 
have  indicated  bad  tlie  mechanism  been  constiucted  for 
greater  elevations,  it  is  impossible  to  say,  but  the  error  on 
this  occasion  was  sufficient  to  show^  that  for  altitudes  over 


.]/(U\ /\\/\    Sk'KX/-:sS. 


S7 


about  1(S,0U0  Ict't,  tills  instruiucnt  was  valueless.  Nearly 
all  anei-oids  record  too  small  a  haroiuetric  pressure  at 
{Threat  liei^lits  :  tlieir  errors  increase  with  iIm-  lit'i«,'lit,  and 
at  ^^reat  hei<;lits  no  two  instruments  even  by  the  same 
maktu',  when  })laced  under  the  same  conditions,  record  the 
same  pressure.  Their  errors  can  only  be  detected  by 
comparison  with  the  mercurial  barometer,  or  hypsometer 
on    the    spot.     As    a     rule,    our    aiu:'roid    was    compared 


WAiml.llSS    (AMI-    NKVIt     IMl;    AN     I.V    (I'ASS). 


ni(irniii;4  and  cvcnin;,'  with  Collie's  jiorlablc  nnrcinial 
baroiiirtcr.  but  we  lUiver  used  the  latter  instruintiit  at 
passes,  only   in   camp. 

The  Nabo  La  was  undoubtedly  the  hi«.;lu'st  jionit  the 
ciiravan  had  icachcd,  but  h-w  of  us  wei'e  seriously  alVected. 
Lend.  'I'ara  Sin^di.  and  two  .\r;4uns  complained  df  head- 
aches, and  Sannians  tace  an<l  hands  becaiiu-  swollen. 
All  of  us  had  to  nuike  frequent  halts  lor  a  minuti-  or  two 


8S     /.\'    TIllliT   AM)    C/f/XfiS/-:    /Y'A'A'A.S '/\/.V. 

to  rei;;iiii  l)rt'atli,  a  circumstance  which  ai'icctcd  IMke  a 
good  deal,  and  t(»  me  was  very  distressing.  Here  Sanman, 
as  at  earlier  stages  of  our  journey,  showed  himself  lazy 
and  disobedient,  causing  more  trouble  than  his  assistance 
was  worth.  He  would  have  been  much  improved  by  a 
sound  beating,  which  neither  Pike  nor  I  cared  to  inflict. 

Descending  the  Nabo  La,  we  entered  a  narrow,  rather 
steep,  and  very  stony  valley,  from  which  we  passed  into  a 
broad  valley  almost  destitute  of  grass,  where  tlie  mules 
and  ponies  had  to  subsist  on  a  few  handfuls  of  corn  and 
the  little  water  that  was  not  frozen.  Fortunately,  as  we 
advanced  we  found  a  better  supply  of  grass  and  water. 
Here  we  halted  for  a  day  and  I  completed  the  system  of 
triangulation  by  connecting  it  with  Tartary  Peaks,  Nos. 
1  and  'i,  of  the  Great  Trigonometrical  Survey  of  India. 
This  task  I  had  fortunately  accomplished  before  the 
theodolite  was  damaged  by  an  accident.  At  the  hill 
station  here,  on  Oct(jber  19th,  the  cold  west  wind  was  so 
violent  that  the  instrument  was  blown  over,  though  large 
stones  had  been  piled  round  the  stand.  Leno  had  par- 
tially broken  its  fall  so  that  it  was  not  irretrievably 
destroyed,  but  it  was  so  damaged  that  further  work 
with  it  was  out  of  the  question.  During  four  months 
the  theodolite  had  provided  me  with  the  means  of 
interesting  employment,  for  few  days  or  nights  had 
passed  without  my  taking  either  terrestrial  or  astrono- 
mical observations,  and  now,  to  my  regret,  this  occu- 
pation was  gone. 

Had  it  not  been  for  the  cutting  wind,  we  might  have 
lingered  and  admired  the  panorama  of  majestic  mountains 
which  extended  before  us,  many  of  their  summits  being 
clothed  with  perpetual  snow.  At  least  three  of  the  peaks 
which  we  observed  were  over  21,000  feet  in  height,  and 
doubtless  others  were  as  high.  Within  the  depression 
which   they  enclosed  lay,  Dyap  Cho,  or  Lake   Treb,  as 


RA  ssocLA  's  '•  A'(  iyk\ir  89 

Wellby  calls  it.  To  the  north  of  this  lake  was  a  lofty 
mountain  with  rounded  summit,  the  height  of  which 
we  endeavoured  to  ascertain  ;  our  efforts,  however,  were 
unsuccessful  as  tlie  rounded  t<>])  presented  not  one 
feature  which  could  possil)ly  be  recognised  from  a  second 
station. 

Nymget  Sring,  ixassoula,  and  sonu'  of  the  caravan  men 
to  whom  our  homeward  route  was  to  some  extent  familiar, 
asserted  that  there  were  no  more  high  passes  to  cross, 
onl}^  a  "  konka,"  or  low  pass,  and  two  others  of  insignifi- 
cant height. 

A  careful  examination  which  I  made  of  the  lofty  range 
west  of  the  Dyap  Cho,  did  not  tend  to  bear  out  their 
statement,  but  still  Kassoula  persisted  in  his  opinion. 
We  moved  on  and  camped  at  a  cheerless  spot,  where 
no  fuel  could  be  found  and  where  the  stream  was  frozen 
to  a  solid  mass.  This  was  at  Thakcho  Karu  (Camp  7(V), 
17,()0()  feet  in  height.  This  place  was,  in  fact,  very  little 
below  the  level  of  the  top  of  the  pass,  the  ascent  being  so 
very  gradual  that  the  highest  point  could  not  easily  be 
determined.  Here  was  Rassoula's  "  konka,"  identical 
with  Nymget  Sring's  "  Kone  La"  and  the  "  Kepsang 
Pass"  of  the  maps.  Snow  had  fallen,  but  not  so  as  to 
l)rcvcnt  the  animals  from  finding  a  scanty  supply  of  the 
laugiua  grass  of  tlu^  region.  These  dumb  servants,  owing 
to  daily  marches,  scarcity  of  food  and  water,  and  the 
severe  cold,  were  reduced  to  a  i)iti;ilile  condition 
Several  of  them  were  frozen  to  death  and  many  of  them 
had  to  be  shot.  In  the  mornings  my  first  (pu^stion  was. 
"  How  nuiny  deaths  during  the  night?""  When  I  think 
of  this  portion  of  our  journey  it  seems  wonderful  that  any 
of  our  nudes  or  ponies  survived  to  reacli  Ladak.  'I'be  few 
Tibetan  ponies  we  had  fared  lietter  than  the  other 
animals,  for  they  h;id  llie  habit  of  pawing  the  snow 
till  the  irrass  beneath  was   hud   ban',  and  tht\  hiunnieri'd 


90     /.^'    TlllliT  AXn    CHIXESR    TURKESTAN. 

with  tin  ir  hoofs  on  tlie  ice  in  search  of  water,  now  and 
then  with  success.  Near  the  camp  there  was  noticed  an 
unexpected  visitor,  a  bald-headed  coot,  which  had  been 
attracted  by  the  presence  of  so  many  animals  in  the 
desolation  of  the  mountains.  The  poor  l)ir(l,  like  otu* 
beasts,  was  quite  exhausted  and  was  easily  caught  by 
the  men,  who  were  ordered  to  put  an  end  to  its  misery 
and  save  it  from  a  lingering  and  painful  death. 

Of  all  the  members  of  our  caravan,  Kassoula  showed 
the  most  wonderful  imperviousness  to  cold.  In  such 
weather  it  was  important  to  have  proper  footgear ;  boots 
were  undoubtedly  the  worst,  unless  so  large  as  to  admit 
with  ease  two  pairs  of  the  thickest  woollen  socks ;  but 
Rassoula,  whether  riding  or  walking,  would  wear  nothing 
in  preference  to  a  cast-off  pair  of  my  boots,  whicli  he 
never  fastened.  This  man,  besides  his  professional  attain- 
ments, had  some  slender  accomplishments  which  made 
him  useful  in  another  way.  He  was  from  Ladak,  where 
the  language  spoken  is  Bhoti,  and  he  was  the  only  man 
in  our  camp  who  could  write  a  letter  in  Bhoti.  When 
we  were  sending  to  Ladak  for  help,  a  letter  was  necessary 
to  confirm  the  words  of  our  messenger,  and  for  the  writing 
of  this  letter  the  services  of  our  cook  were  impressed. 
This  work,  however,  proved  almost  beyond  his  powers ; 
when  the  orders  which  were  to  form  the  groundwork  of 
the  epistle  were  rehearsed  to  him,  he  kept  muttering  to 
himself  and  then  proceeded  to  w^rite ;  but  it  was  easy  to 
see  that  the  words  he  used  were  partly  Bhoti,-  partly 
Hindostani,  and  partly,  doubtless,  from  other  tongues. 
All  efforts  to  adhere  to  one  language  were  hopeless,  and 
when,  after  much  labour,  the  epistle  was  finished  it  was 
very  doubtful  what  its  meaning  was,  or  whethei-  il  liud  a 
meaning.  Kassoula  could  repeat  to  us  what  he  had  been 
told  to  say,  and  doul)tless  did  so,  only  pretending  to  read 
the  letter  as  it  finallv  stood.     Durin<:  the  whole  of  this 


r./.I//'    AT   r  AC  KIM. 


91 


labour  the  puzzled  look  on  his  solemn  countenance  was 
the  cause  of  much  merriment. 

In  these  trying  times  our  spirits  were  supported  hy 
Rassoula's  assurance  that  a  "  <,an-rain  jugga,"  or  "  warm 
spot,"  was  not  far  off,  but  this  place  of  comfort  was  still 
too  far  off  for  our  purpose.  At  Pagrim,  where  we  found 
a  small  nomad  encampment,  the  guide  who  had  been 
sent  witli  Ixamzan  to  TjUtkum  returned  in   the  cc^mpany 


W^. 


AMI'      \1      IM.ia.M. 


of  two  Lutkuni  mm,  but  witlioiit  iJain/aii  who.  \\v  in- 
formed us,  was  ill  and  unable  lo  travel.  To  arrange  lor 
assistance  we  sent  Utam  back  witb  oiu'  ol'  these  new- 
comers, but  fresh  diniculties  awaiti'd  us.  Tlie  Kuiidoi- 
men  were  naturally  iiii))atient  to  i-eturu  to  tlieir  bomes. 
Wintei'  was  clo.sing  in  u|>on  tbeni  :  there  were  two  passes 
behind  them,  and  fof  all  theii-  trouble  they  did  not  expect 
to  receive  one  anna.      \\  e  otlereil  an  increase  of  pay,  but 


ijj    /.v  77/!/:/'  .}.\7)  c///x/:s/-:  ti7</</-:s/.\\. 

without  avail,  t\»r  all  (Uir  iic^'ntiatinus  wci-f  with  NMii^'et 
Sriiif,'  and  wciv  carrit'd  on  in  our  cainii  apail  lioni  ilir 
other  Hundoi-  men,  who,  theiv  is  liltli'  douht.  knew 
nothing'  of  the  har<,Miiiin;4.  As  soon  as  ni^dit  set  in  these 
men  holted  and  took  their  yaks  with  them,  and.  whal 
was  vexatious,  they  went  unpaid,  so  that  we  had  to 
entrust  the  money  to  Nym^'et  Sring,  wlio.  with  a  sinilc. 
undertook   to  satisfy  them. 

At  raf,n-im  our  situation  was  very  dreary,  and  we 
resolved  to  proceed.  The  transport  yaks  were  now  j,'one, 
i>ut  having  ohtained  from  Nymget  Sring  the  use  of  his 
two  pcjnies,  we  loaded  these  and  the  other  animals  lieavily 
and  set  out.  We  liad  to  send  hack  repeatedly  for  surplus 
•>aggage,  and  it  took  us  two  days  to  travel  eleven  miles  to 
Niagzu.  On  the  hills  to  the  north  of  the  valley  there 
was  a  large  herd  of  sheej),  and  on  my  asking  the  Jjadaki, 
C'hangfunchuk,  for  what  i)m-pose  they  were  driven  there 
he  replied,  "  To  get  food." 

"  P»ut."  said  I,  "  they  cannot  eat  stones  or  earth.' 

"  No,  Sahih,  they  eat  grass." 

"  J:5ut  they  cannot  find  grass  there." 

"  Oh,  yes,  Sahih,  there  is  grass  between  the  stones." 

The  mountain-side  was  rocky,  and  I  could  perceive  no 
green  thing,  hut  the  Tibetan  shee]>  were  used  to  scanty 
fare  and  eoidd  subsist  in  winter  on  these  bleak  mountains. 

Xiagzu  was  I\assoula's  "  warm  spot."  The  place  was 
sheltered  from  the  cold  west  wind  by  high  mountains, 
and  we  found  a  fairly  level  piece  of  turfy  ground  hemmed 
in  on  three  sides  by  low  trees  and  tall  brushwood  so  as 
to  f(jrm  an  excellent  camping-groimd.  In  a  short  time 
we  liad  collected  a  large  rpiantity  of  dry  brushwood  and 
roots  of  trees,  and  all  hands  indulged  in  the  luxui-y  of 
large  camp  fires.  Since  leaving  Tankse  on  June  ist 
(five  months  before)  we  had  found  no  fuel  but  boortza 
and  dung,   which    barely   sufficed   for    cooking    purposes. 


EFFECT  OF  COLD    OX   CORD  I  IF..  95 

and  we  now  had  iiiispcakahir  ddi^^dit  in  stretching'  our- 
selves at  full  Icn^'th  on  the  lurf  ifro/.cn  hard  as  a  rock, 
l)ut  still  turt'l  in  front  of  a  hlazin*,'  tire  of  f^enuine  crack- 
ling' blocks  of  wood,  h'or  a  time  we  forgot  we  wen^  at 
an  altitude  of  15,000  feet,  on  November  1st,  but  with  the 
temperature  at  zero  Y .  we  came  back  to  realities.  A\'e 
re<|uired  thick  fur  coats,  and  at  night  we  l)etook  ourselves 
to  oar  much  prized  sleeping-bags,  which  left  only  the  face 
exposed  to  the  frost. 

On  the  mountain-side  opposite  our  camp  we  saw  a 
large  mnnbei-  of  ram  chicore,  which  kept  calling  in  the 
most  pi'ovoking  manner,  hut  all  efforts  to  get  near  these 
tootlisome  l)irds  with  a  shot-gun  proved  abortive.  How- 
ever, C'hangfunchuk  succeeded  i?i  bringing  one  down  with 
his  carbine. 

In  the  really  cold  weather  the  cordite  used  tor  the 
carbines  was  so  useless  that  we  gave  up  attempting  to 
shoot.  Close  to  Camp  75  Pike  tried  to  shoot  an  antelope, 
but  utterly  failed,  no  less  than  six  bullets  having  dropped 
to  the  ground  within  lifty  yards  of  him.  The  only 
purpose  to  which  the  cordite  could  be  put  in  such  circum- 
stances was  to  kill  exhausted  mules  and  ponies. 

At  length  the  iiUtkum  men  and  baggage  animals 
arrived,  and  we  were  able  to  resimie  our  journey.  There 
were  still  two  waterless  camjiing-grounds  before  us,  l)ut 
at  these  places  barley  and  chopped  straw  had  been  stored 
ready  foi'  our  animals,  and  water  was  obtained  from  fresh- 
fallen  snow . 

The  severity  of  the  weather  incivased  the  demand  foi- 
medicines,  but  sometimi^s  these  wen*  asked  for  when 
ipiite  unnecessary.  The  old  Sikh,  Tara  Singh,  was  the 
hrst  to  feign  illness  by  a  forced  and  fre(pient  cough  ;  his 
example  was  followt>d  with  amioymg  rapidity,  and  vi;4(M-ous 
renu>(lies  became  necessai'y.  .\fter  it  was  made  <juite 
clear   that    there   was    no    real    malady   in    the   cam[>  the 


96     /X    TinET   AXn   CIlIXESli    TIKKESTAX. 

(lispensiiiff  of  drugs  ceased,  and  an  order  was  issued 
allowing  for  each  man's  restoration  to  health  a  period 
of  twenty-four  hours,  after  whieh  a  heavy  fine  would  be 
miposed  for  every  cough  that  N\as  heard.  This  remedy 
was  more  effective  than  all  drugs  and  eui'ed  the  eani]) 
with  marvellous  rapidity. 

After  a  long  and  tiring  march,  in  which  we  had  to 
cross  a  pass,  high  but  not  difficult,  we  reached  the  valley 
in  which  Lutkum  stands.  During  the  greater  part  of 
the  last  day's  march  I  rode  Pike's  pony,  which  he  very 
generously  gave  me,  as  I  was  rather  used  up,  and  when  it 
was  drawing  near  to  seven  o'clock  in  the  evening  we 
entered  the  village.  A  great  supply  of  boortza  had  been 
collected  for  us,  and  other  stores  were  in  readiness,  but 
we  had  to  wait  for  about  an  hour  till  we  heard  the  salaam- 
ing which  betokened  the  n:ieeting  of  our  Arguns  with 
their  fellow-countrymen,  and  the  arrival  of  our  diminished 
caravan. 

Of  the  sixty-six  animals  with  which  we  had  set  out 
from  Leh  no  less  than  sixty  had  fallen  victims  to  the 
hardships  of  the  journe}',  or  had  been  stolen  by  the 
Chukpas.  The  remaining  six  were  fit  for  no  greater 
load  than  a  few  of  the  men's  sheepskin  coats,  and  with 
that  they  could  only  crawl  slowly  along.  So  hiw  had 
their  vitality  been  reduced  by  privation,  that  for  several 
days  they  could  not  eat  anything  like  a  satisfactory 
quantity  of  the  grass  or  barley,  which  was  now  offered 
them  in  abundance. 

The  provisions  which  we  carried  for  the  caravan — 
suttoo,  fi(jur,  rice,  and  bread — lasted  till  the  day  of  our 
retui'n.  Since  the  iHth  of  June,  when  w'e  crossed  the 
Lanak  I^a,  our  caravan  had  travelled  770  miles,  of  which 
I  had  walked  more  than  half.  I  had  still  to  reach  Leh 
to  complete  the  journey,  but  there  was  no  longer  the 
need  for  pedestrian  exercise,  as  the  Wazir,  Bishun  Dass, 


SCENK    NEAli    TIIK    AN    I.A    (I'ASS). 
S 


Till'.    ZOJI    I. A    l\    WIXTER.  99 

vt'Tv  kindly  li;ul  scnl  a  cliaprassio  to  meet  us  and  make 
the  lu'ct'ssaiv  airanjrements.  Fortunately  very  little 
snow  had  fallen  on  tlie  Chan^'  La,  and  havinf,'  easily 
surmounted  this  pass,  we  readied  Leh  on  Novemher  IHth. 

I  spent  a  lew  days  in  resting  and  payinfj  off  the  caravan 
men,  and  when  all  l)usiness  relatinp;  to  the  expedition  had 
been  accomplished,  I  reluctantly  said  goodbye  to  Arnold 
Pike,  wlio,  for  the  purpose  of  sport,  had  determined  to 
spend  the  winter  in  Ladak.  His  (,'enial  society  had  been 
a  source  of  great  enjoyment  dui'ing  the  expedition,  and 
to  his  indefatigable  energ\  and  hearty  co-operation  I 
was  largely  indebted  for  success.  l')Ul  for  his  care 
and  skill  the  natural  history  and  bola  s[)eciniens  whicii 
we  picked  up  would  have  fart-d  badly.  In  addition  to 
rendering  such  assistance,  he  had  acted  as  quarter-nuister, 
and  had,  besides,  been  always  eager  to  reconnoitre,  evt-n 
at  times  when  labouring  under  physical  weakness.  He 
had  resolved  to  remain  in  La(bik — ^I  had  to  rejoin  my 
regiment  ;  so  with  a  hearty  lian(lsli;il<e  we  jmrtcd  com- 
pany and   1   set  out    foi-  Srinagar. 

There  were  reports  of  an  early  snowfall  on  the  Zoji  La. 
and  while  I  was  delayed  at  l>ias  twenty  inches  of  snow 
h'll.  When  the  weatlu'r  had  cleared  1  set  out  with  coolies 
lightly  laden,  and  four  men  to  act  as  guides  and  make  a 
track  through  the  snow.  ()ur  progress  was  at  the  rate 
of  about  a  mile  an  bom',  and  it  took  us  four  days  to  ti-avel 
to  Haltal,  a  journey  of  .'U  miles,  whicii  in  summer  I  had 
accomplished  in  a  single  day.  The  pass,  we  found,  was 
closed  even  to  mail  rumiei-s.  and  a  number  of  wretchedly 
clad  women  and  children  from  J^altistan.  who  were 
waiting  to  cross,  attached  themselves  to  my  jiaity.  'i'he 
worst  day's  march  wa-^  from  Mechuhoi  to  Haltal.  during 
which  we  were  imp(>ded  by  a  strong  w  ind  which  blew  the 
fine  frozen  snow  in  our  faces.  Accompanied  by  l^eno. 
Utani  Singh,  and  a  man   from   Pras.  T  had  set  out  earlv 


loo   /.y  Tinr.T  .wn  ciiim-.se  rrRKiisTAX. 

from  tlie  rest-houKc  at  Mechuhoi  ahead  of  tlu'  coolieK, 
and  after  some  hours  of  weary  plodding  throu^di  the  snow 
1  reached  the  top  of  the  pass.  Tliere  I  ahnost  stumhled 
over  the  bod}'  of  a  Sepoy  who  liad  l)een  frozen  to  death. 
I  learned  afterwards  that  my  men  had  noticed  him  the 
day  before  pushing  on  from  Mechuhoi,  and  had  en- 
deavoured to  recall  him.  The  poor  man,  clothed  in  the 
thinnest  rags,  had  evidently  reached  the  spot  after  dark, 
and  before  attempting  to  descend  the  steep  snowy  slope 
had  sat  down  to  rest.  He  had  removed  one  puttie,  and 
had  partially  removed  the  other,  and  then  had  been  over- 
taken by  the  fatal  sleep.  The  snowfall  not  having  been 
as  yet  sufHcient  to  fill  up  the  bottom  of  the  narrow  gorge, 
and  bridge  over  the  rushing  stream,  we  had  to  cut  steps 
for  ourselves  on  the  steep  sides  of  the  ravine — an  un- 
pleasant task  in  the  face  of  the  cold  wind.  "We  reached 
l^altal  without  mishap  to  any  of  my  party,  but  one  of  the 
Ijaltis  who  had  joined  our  coolies  was  frozen  to  death 
while  being  carried  across  the  pass. 

At  Baltal  I  expected  to  spend  the  night  with  less 
discomfort  than  1  had  experienced  at  Mechuhoi.  The 
key  of  the  apartment  reserved  for  I'.uropeans  visiting  the 
rest-house  had  been  entrusted  to  a  postal  ])aroga,  or 
overseer  of  mail-runners,  but  he  had  unaccountably 
returned  it  to  Kiislmiir.  1  liad  to  rest  in  the  large  room 
in  comi)any  with  coolies,  servants,  mail-runners,  Baltis, 
and  a  couple  of  Kaskmiris  who  had  been  sent  from 
Srinagar  with  some  luxuries  for  me.  It  was  the  11th  of 
December  when  I  reached  Srinagar,  so  altered  in  appear- 
ance that  my  own  friends  failed  to  recognise  me.  Thence 
I  travelled  to  Kawal  Pindi  in  a  "tonga,"'  or  stage-cart, 
specially  adapted  for  steep  gradients  and  sharp  curves, 
and  from  Rawal  Pindi  I  travelled  by  rail  to  Undjalla, 
where  my  regiment  was  quartered. 


CHAPTER   VTI 

Preparations  at  Srinaj,'ar — Start  from  IJandipoora — Trouble  with 
Khalik — Trial  of  Klialik— Stay  at  Gilgit — Hun/a — Mutinous  pon.v 
men — JouriU'.v  to  the  Pamirs^Frost-bitten — DitHcultv  of  sur- 
veying,' in  winter — Trouble  with  natives — Visit  to  Cobbold. 

LIlvIO  other  J>ritisli  ol'lictTs  siiiittcii  with  tlu' exploration 
fever,  I  had  liad  (htliciilty  in  ohtainiii;^  sut'tk-icnt 
leave  of  absence  from  my  n';^Mment,  l)ut  in  Marcli,  1MU7, 
o\vin<f  to  tnmble.s  arising'  from  an  unhealthy  liver,  I 
found  it  necessary  to  n  si^m  my  connnission  and  (juil 
India  for  ^'ood. 

The  imme(hate  jmrpose  of  the  lirst  portion  of  this 
journey  for  which  1  now  prepared,  was  the  exploiation 
and  careful  stirvey  of  that  part  of  the  valley  of  the 
Yarkand  Kiver  extending'  from  the  west  end  of  Kaskam 
to  the  nei<,ddjourhood  of  Yarkand.  The  most  recent  map 
of  this  region  with  wliich  I  was  provided  was  Lonl 
Ctu'zon's,  published  in  the  Cieo^fraphical  -Journal  for 
July,  lS'.)().  On  this  cai"efully  compiled  map.  showing 
the  Pamirs  and  adjacent  I'ountry,  a  lon^'  stretch  of  the 
Yarkand  Kiver  is  re[)resent(.'d  by  dotted  lines  whose 
general  direction  is  about  north-north-east,  and  1  resolved 
to  investigate  what  truth  there  was  in  this  doubtful 
representation.  Some  lOuropeans  had  crossed  the  river 
at  Langar,  and  Gronibchefsky  had  crossed  it  at  Sanglash, 
but  no  other  traveller  had  followed  its  course  below  the 
west  end  ol'  Kaskam.  ~  For  the  purpose  of  this  investiga- 


I02     /X    TIBET  AXD    CUIXliSIi    Tl'RKESTAX. 

tion  it  was  advisable  to  avoid,  if  possible,  tlu;  loiif^  and 
circuitous  route  by  Leh  and  Yarkand,  and  to  proceed  by 
the  Gilgit-Hunza  route  to  llic  Taghdunibash  Pamir. 
Along  this  route  the  difficulties  oi'  transport  and  supplies 
were  very  considerable,  and  it  was  doubtful  whether  the 
necessary  permission  would  be  granted  by  the  Indian 
Government.  The  authorities,  however,  not  only  acceded 
to  my  a})phcation,  but  also  enjoined  their  officials  to 
render  me  such  assistance  as  might  l)e  witliin  their 
power,  so  that  I  had  the  prospect  of  being  able  to  com- 
mence survey  work  innnediately  after  crossnig  the  frontiei', 
and  of  achieving  niy  lirst  purpose  before  any  great  fall  of 
snow  could  retard  operations. 

For  this,  as  for  the  earlier  expedition,  caravan  prepara- 
tions had  to  be  made  at  Srinagar,  but  as  it  was  my 
intention  to  winter  in  Turkestan  and  enter  Tibet  from  the 
north  in  the  following  summer,  the  preliminary  work  was 
on  a  much  smaller  scale  than  in  1896. 

Owing  to  the  demand  for  troops  for  the  Tirah  Field 
Force  then  being  mobilised,  I  was  deprived  of  a  companion 
who  had  intended  joining  the  expedition,  but,  fortunately, 
W.  V.  C()l)l)()l(l,  late  of  the  (30th  Rifles,  who  was  then  in 
Srinagar,  obtained  leave  and  became  my  fellow-traveller 
as  far  as  the  Taghdunibash  Pamir.  The  assistant- 
surveyor,  formerly  lent  to  me  by  the  Indian  Survey 
Department,  had  been  murdered  during  an  expedition 
undertaken  by  Pottinger,  but  a  fresh  man,  Dalbir  Rai, 
trained  at  Dehra  Dun,  was  now  supplied.  As  my  con- 
nection with  the  army  and  the  Government  of  India  had 
ceased,  I  was  at  a  loss  for  a  young  and  trustworthy  man 
to  act  as  orderly.  Many  old  pensioners  from  native 
regiments  could  easily  have  been  procured,  but  youth  was 
as  essential  as  staunchness.  Wiiile  dining  one  night  with 
the  8rd  Madras  Lancers  at  Secunderabad  I  happened  to 
mention  the  matter,  and  the  connnauding  officer,  Major 


PREPARATIONS   AT  SRI N AGAR. 


lO' 


Jones,  said  tliat  lie  liad  in  his  regiment  an  excellent  fellow 
who  might  volunteer.  When  I  asked  the  youth  whether 
he  would  join  me,  he  replied  at  once,  "  I  will  go  with 
you  to  Kabul,  Lhasa,  or  Pekin,"  rendering  further  parley 
unnecessary.     The  man  was  named  Naik  Abdul  Karim  ; 


\iN    iii;iii;i;i,\ ,   Ar.i'n.    kmii.m. 


he  was  a  Cliinaman,  a  native  of  \'iiniuni,  wliciire  he  had 
wandered  through  Lhasa  and  Nepal  to  India.  The 
permission  of  the  Military  Department  was  obtaiiud. 
and  the  oi-dei-l\-  joiikmI  nu^  at  Srinagar  a  few  days  before  i 
started.  Other  huiuIxts  hI'  the  pmiy  wcic  I 'ass,  the 
e()()]<  :     I'taiii    Siii^ii,   the    t-ollet-tdr  ;     Alxlul     Kiialik,   the 


104  i.y  Tiiuir  ASP  cniM-.sii  rrRKEsr.w. 

canivjin  baslii  ;  ami  tivr  other  Ar^uns,  lour  ol'  whom  had 
accompanied  mo  on  the  foinuT  joiirm  v. 

()\vin»(  to  the  demand  ior  transport  animals  for  the 
Tirah  Campai^Mi.  ponies  or  mules  tit  for  my  purpose  were 
dirtieult  to  find  in  Siina^Mr.  There  was  no  scarcity  of  old 
and  useless  animals,  for  which  the  owners  asked  fancy 
prices,  and  scores  of  these  had  to  be  rejected  before 
thirteen  ponies  of  lair  ijuality  could  be  secured.  On 
my  bi'half  an  arran^qjement  was  kindly  made  at  Bandipur 
by  Major  Yeildinf^,  the  comnlissariat  and  transport  ollicer 
on  special  duty  in  Kashmir,  for  twenty-five  ponies  for  at 
least  six  months,  from  Shukur.  a  native  of  Ast(jr.  The 
averaife  native  of  the  East,  however,  does  not  hesitate  to 
^^o  back  on  his  bar^Min  if  it  seems  convenient  to  do  so, 
though  he  rightly  cjnsidars  such  a  proceeding  disgraceful 
in  a  Sahib.  .  Of  the  ponies  supplied  by  Shukur  none  were 
of  the  prescribed  standard  and  condition,  and  only  a  few 
were  fit  for  a  lengthened  journey.  For  a  time  there  was  a 
difficulty  in  procuring  pack  saddles,  which  the  caravan 
l^ashi  asserted  amounted  almost  to  an  impossibility,  but 
eventually  wooden  ones  were  obtained  from  J)ras. 

Having  seen  Ivhalik  and  the  jxMiies  set  out  on  tlus  road 
U)  Bandipur,  the  starting-point  tor  Gilgit,  it  was  with  great 
pleasure  that  on  September  loth  I  left  Srinagar,  and  floated 
down  stream  in  a  dunga,  or  native  house-boat.  Next 
morning,  suffering  from  the  stings  of  vicious  mosquitoes, 
I  reached  l^andipur,  where  Khalik  and  the  ponies  were 
waiting,  but  the  la/y  bashi  had  done  nothing  towards 
having  the  new  saddles  fitted  to  the  ponies,  two  of  which 
had  slight  sores  on  the  back,  so  that  I  had  to  ask  Major 
Yeilding  for  a  couple  of  substitutes.  Profiting  by  ex- 
perience acquired  in  my  first  journey,  T  determined  not 
only  to  weigh  every  package,  but  to  have  the  packages 
arranged  in  almost  equal  loads  of  about  two  maunds  or 
1()()  lbs.  each.     The  caravan  bashi  is  usually  instructed  to 


J  /'/./:. is.iXT  cvc.v/'k')'.  105 

make  arrau'reiiicnts  (bandarbast  karna'  and  tbc  result  is 
rather  a  lesseninj^^  (»t'  bis  own  work  than  a  satisfactory 
distril)iition  of  the  packages.  My  proceedings  now  were 
contrary  to  custom,  and  KhaHk,  evidently  resenting  the 
innovation,  became  quite  sulky.  For  the  labour  under- 
gone by  myself  in  this  matter  I  was  abundantly  repaid 
during  the  journey.  The  work  was  properly  done  once 
for  all,  instead  of  having  to  be  repeated  in  an  unsatisfactory 
manner  before  every  march,  and  the  risks  of  loads  slipi^ing 
off  was  reduced  to  a  minimum.  Our  thirty-three  baggage 
animals  on  leaving  Bandi[)ui-  carried  a  total  weight  of 
nearly  two  and  ont'-tliird  tons,  mostly  of  tlour,  rice,  and 
corn,  so  that  we  expected  to  be  nearly  independent  of 
local  supplies  till  we  reached  Turkestan.  After  a  busy 
morning  I  saw  the  last  of  the  ponies  loaded  and  on  its 
way  by  half-past  one  ;  then  I  went  to  Major  Yeilding's 
bungalow,  a  couple  of  miles  from  the  village,  and  once 
more  enjoyed  tlie  cheerful  company  of  this  hospitable 
family  who  had  freely  helped  me  in  the  all  important 
matter  of  transport.  Climbing  a  zigzag  road  from  wliich 
excellent  views  of  the  ])ictures(jue  valley  beneath  and  the 
adjacent  pine-clad  mountains  were  obtained,  1  leached 
the  small  rest-house  of  Tragbal  about  eight  o'clock  in  the 
evening,  and  found  Cobbold  waiting  for  my  arrival.  Tlie 
cool,  bracing  air  provided  a  delightful  change  from  the  lu)t. 
moist  climate  of  Srinagar,  while  the  scenery,  enlivened 
by  the  wild  flowers  scattered  about  the  Tragbal  Pass,  and 
by  clear  rivers  flowing  in  the  distance,  made  us  more 
thoroughly  enjoy  this  pleasant  count i-y. 

It  was  not  loJig  before  complaints  were  made  to  me 
against  Khalik,  the  caravan  bashi.  who  was  all(>ged  to 
have  defi'auded  his  namesake.  Cobbohrs  factotum,  of  about 
forty  rupees.  Though  Khalik  had  bi'cn  reconnnended  to 
me  as  an  excellent  man  for  supervising  others,  my  own 
experience  of  him  had  led  me  to  a  dilTerent  opinion,  and 


1 06     /X    T^//)'/-; '/■  J.\7)    C  If/X/'.S/i    / Y  7v' K/iS  'l\  I .V.  ■ 

there  seemed  no  room  for  doubt  as  to  his  dishonesty. 
However,  as  it  would  have  been  inconvenient  to  brin<,' 
matters  to  a  crisis  while  we  were  en  route  to  Gilgit,  I 
pretended  to  be  ignorant  of  his  misdeeds,  even  though 
Abdul  Karim  offered  to  enlighten  me  on  the  subject. 
Natives  have  generally  a  clearer  insight  into  each  other's 
characters  than  Europeans  possess,  and  have  generally 
better  opportunities  for  arriving  at  a  correct  opinion.  J, 
thcrcrorc,  when  on  tlie  march  to  Astor,  took  advantage  of 
Ai)dul  Karim's  presence  alone  with  me  and  spoke  of 
Khalik's  charactcM'. 

"  Well,  Abdul  Karim,  what  do  you  thiidvof  the  caravan 
bashi'.'  " 

'•Sahib,  he  is  a  very  bad  man  and  a  great  thief; 
l<ill  him,  Sahib,  at  once,  and  there  will  be  no 
more  trouble."  Seeing  that  1  did  not  at  once  concur, 
he  added.  "  Tf  you  do  not  like  to  kill  him,  give  me 
the  order ;  I  shall  kill  him  at  once,  and  then  you  will 
have  no  more  trouble." 

Abdul's  metliod  of  dealing  with  the  delinquent  was  more 
severe  than  any  L  had  considered,  and  did  not  obtain  my 
approval,  but,  as  I  did  not  wish  to  extinguish  completely 
the  zeal  of  iii>'  orderly,  I  only  I'eiiiarked  that,  as  we  were 
still  on  British  territory,  it,  would  be  better  not  to  act  on 
his  advice  just  at  present.  Klialik  was  cordially  hated  as 
well  as  dreaded  by  several  of  his  fellow-countrymen,  who 
offered  convincing  evidence  of  his  evil  doings.  He  was 
apparently  quite  ignorant  of  the  dislike  with  which  he 
was  regarded,  and  when  we  came  to  Dak  Pari,  the  last 
rest-house  on  the  way  to  Gilgit.  he  openly  denounced  and 
abused  me  in  the  presence  of  all  my  follow^ers  and  the  few 
Dak  men,  or  mail-runners,  who  iiibabited  the  place.  He 
asserted  that  his  Sahib  was  a  miserable  cur,  who  had 
himself  meanly  purchased  the  few  ponies  which  belonged 
to  his  section  of  the  caravan,  and  had  even  bought  the 


TROUBLE    WIT  1 1   MIDVL    KJIALIK. 


107 


provisions  for  the  journey,  '^riic  point  of  the  grievance 
was  that  the  caravan  bashi  IkuI  liocn  unable  to  make  sucli 
iUicit  gains  as  he  professed  to  have  made  when  in  the 
service  of  others,  whom,  according  to'his  own  shewing  he 
had  defrauded  of  forty  or  fifty  rupees  a  day.  KhaHk's 
ways  were  now  clearly  intolerable,  and  a  few  hours  after 
we  had  reached  Gilgit,  he  was  safely  housed  in  gaol  on  a 
charge  of  robberv  and  fraud.     This  incident  was  in  itself 


AHUi;sT  oi'  Ai;i)i  1.  khai.ik. 


exceedmgly  disagreeal,)l(',  and  i(  iiiaiitHl  my  enjoynienL  of 
the  otherwise  cheerful  conchtions  of  my  stay  at  Gilgit. 
The  Wazir,  or  native  Governor,  Mohannned  Akltai'  Kliau. 
was  well  acquainted  with  K'haHk's  antecedents,  but  never- 
theless devoted  the  b(>si  p;iri  (it  three  days  in  a  painstaking 
ami  im])aitial  investigation  of  the  charges  now  brought 
against  biiii.  'Wxc  resuh  \va^  tlie  ]-)risoner  was  convicted 
and   coudtiiiiicd    to    twelvi'    months"  imprisonment  with 


io8     /.\'    TIBET  AXD    CHIXESE    TCRKESTAN. 

hard  labour,  a  sentence  which  was  afterwards  considerably 
mitigated.  In  the  midst  of  unavailing  protestations, 
Khalik  was  photographed  with  shackles  on,  and,  in  his 
bitter  resentment,  he  vowed  that  I  should  receive  the 
same  measure  as  Dagleish,  who  ha-d  been  murdered  by 
Dad  Mohammed  near  the  Karakoram  Pass. 

At  Dak  Pari,  Cobbold  had  suffered  from  an  attack  of 
blood  poisoning  and  had   been   carried  thence  to   Gilgit 


P"^ 


MY    I'ATHAX    PONY    MEN. 


where  wo  were  hospitably  received  by  the  Political  Agent, 
Captain  A.  II.  MacMahon,  CS.L,  CLE.,  and  by  Mrs. 
MacMahon,  who  had  a  most  luxurious  camp  pitched  for 
us  in  the  delightfully  cool  shade  of  a  large  clump  of  trees 
a  little  below  the  Agency.  The  open-handed  hospitality 
displayed  was  most  generous  in  a  country  where  every- 
thing but  meat  and  milk  has  to  be  brought  from  India,  on 
baggage   animals   during  the  few  months  in  which   the 


.u('7vxo['s  rox)'  .vz-y.  109 

passes  are  practicable.  To  sup})ly  tlie  place  of  some  use- 
less ponies,  we  obtained  at  Gilgit  ten  fine  mules  and  two 
ponies  on  a  six  months'  agreement  with  ISIohannned 
Amin,  a  wiry  old  Pathan,  who  proved  as  great  an 
acquisition  as  his  three  fellow-countrymen,  who  did  nearly 
all  the  heavy  work  of  this  section  of  the  caravan.  From 
Gilgit  to  Baltit,  the  capital  of  Hunza,  and  a  picturesque 
village,  we  had  the  company  of  Captain  MacMahon,  and 
of  Captain  Roberts,  the  Agency  Surgeon,  who,  having 
been  present  at  the  capture  of  Nilt,  took  us  round  th(^ 
place  and  pointed  out  the  objects  of  special  interest. 

At  Baltit  the  Astor  pony  men  who,  a  few  weeks  before, 
had  clamoured  for  employment  during  the  winter  months, 
now  became  openly  mutinous,  and  refused  to  proceed 
further  on  any  conditions.  The  matter  was  reported  to 
the  Political  Agent,  and  under  the  pressure  which  he 
could  bring  to  bear  the  men  yielded,  but  sulked  and  lied 
freely  concerning  me. 

We  were  tempted  to  delay  a  few  days,  for  the  sake  of 
Captain  MacMahon's  company  as  far  as  the  Kilik  Pass, 
whither  he  was  going  on  a  tour  of  inspection,  but  llu- 
season  was  now  well  advanced,  and  we  deemed  it  advis- 
able to  set  out  at  once  so  as  to  reach  the  Taghdumbash 
Pamir  before  the  ])asses  were  encumbered  with  snow.  A 
short  distance  beyond  l'>;iltit  llic  track  became  nanower, 
and  often  so  steep  and  stony  as  to  be  iiii))i miicable  for 
laden  ])onies,  so  that  it  was  necessary  feu  a  time  to  transfer 
all  tlic  baggage  to  the  coolies.  The  journey  to  the  Pamirs, 
however,  was  accomplished  williout  any  more  serious 
mishap  than  the  death  of  one  pony,  and  the  fall  of  another 
laden  with  ilour.  into  a  deej)  watci-  hole  with  a  soft,  muddy 
bottom  with  which  the  driver  also,  in  consideration  (^f  his 
neglect,  was  reijinred  to  make  accpiaintance.  The  Astoris 
continued  to  be  troul)lest)me.  and  it  was  with  great  joy 
that    we  beheld    the    approach    of    several    Kirghiz    with 


MO    /.\'  TiiuiT  .i.\7)  cffixr.sn  rcRK/isr.ix. 


numerous  yak  and  ponies  for  our  baggage.  1  was  now- 
resolved  to  dispense  with  the  services  of  the  Astoris,  and, 
knowing  their  contemptible  character,  I  took  the  pre- 
caution of  paying  them  in  the  presence  of  iMohammed 
Aniin  and  his  Pathans,  as  well  as  other  witnesses,  giving 
them,  in   addition,  a  small   gi'atuity,  providing  them  also 


\  j: 


^#'  '^/■'^ 


5^>: 


% 


S^» 


HAD    'ntACIC    IN    UlN/A. 


with  tlie  letter  of  discharge  without  which  they  could  not 
proceed  beyond  Baltit,  and  making  them  the  bearers  of  a 
letter  to  Captain  MacMahon,  in  which  it  was  stated  that 
they  had  been  paid  oft".  Yet,  on  reaching  Gilgit  on  their 
way  home,  tlicy  freely  accused  me  of  having  sent  them 
hack  unpaid. 


A  /'/j-.is.i.vT  .]//■:/■: 77. VG. 


1 1 1 


Soon  after  reaching'  Sluruii  Muiduii,  tlu>  last  halting- 
place  on  the  south  side  of  the  Kilii<  Pass,  we  were  agree- 
ably surprised  at  meeting  Isidore  Morse,  an  American, 
who  had  left  Ladak  early  in  the  summer  in  search  of  wild 
sheep  (ovis  Poli).  His  description  of  the  excellent  and 
varied  big-game  shooting  in  the  Hi  Rich  district  so  excited 
Cobhold,  that  as  soon  as  possible  he  applied  for  and 
obtained  from  M.  Petrovsky,  the  Russian  Consul-General 


KWMITS    CAKKVIMi    l!A<iii\(lK    11'    A    IMlKlU'ICi;. 


at  Kashgar,  the  necessary  jxTuiissioii  to  tra\tl  in  that  land 
of  promise. 

Very  fortunately  there  was  but  little  snow  on  the 
Kilik  Pass,  which  we  crossed  on  C)ctohcr  !i()th.  and  ncme 
in  the  Taghdunihash  I'ainir.  whcic  wc  |>iich('(l  uui'  tirst 
camp  not  fai-  from  the  Kiiktcruk  nullah  at  an  altitude  of 
l."5,Ur)(_)  feet.  So  long  a  tinu'  had  I'lapsml  since  our  setting 
out  from  Gilgit  that  we  could  not  place  much  reliance  on 


112    /.y  rir^ET  Axn  ciiim-.sh  tirki-.stax. 

tlie  longitude  l:)rouglit  up  hy  tlii'  (.•liroiiometers,  uiid  1 
resolved  to  determine  the  longitude  of  Cani})  1  by  triangu- 
lation  from  some  of  the  peaks  fixed  liy  tlic  Taniir  lioniidary 
Commission. 

For  this  purpose  sites  i'oi'  hill  stations  had  to  be  selected, 
but,  owing  to  the  severity  of  the  weather,  I  was  unable  to 
reach  the  elevation  I  wished. 

The  day  after  we  reached  the  Taghdumbash  Pamir, 
Cobbold,  who  was  not  an  enthusiast  in  the  work  of 
surveying,  set  off  in  seai'ch  of  the  ovia  Poll,  which  were 
plentiful  in  the  Kukteruk  nullah,  but  these  animals  were 
so  unconnnonly  wary  that  I  declined  to  waste  much  time 
in  their  pursuit,  and  moved  towards  Ujabadi,  rejoining  my 
companion  on  the  route. 

This  was  the  more  necessary  as  on  the  latest  map  of 
this  part  of  the  country  our  present  locality  was  repre- 
sented incorrectly,  and  it  was  indispensable  for  topo- 
graphical work  that  we  should  have  good  values  for  the 
longitude  of  our  encampment.  The  requisite  operation  is 
exceedingly  simple  in  theory,  but,  owing  in  great  measure 
to  difticulties  arising  from  the  lateness  of  the  season,  I 
found  it  troublesome  in  practice.  By  the  end  of  October, 
when  work  was  well  begun  at  Hill  Station  "A,"  Al ,(\^)^ 
feet  in  height,  near  Mazar  Sultan,  there  was  too  niuch 
snow  and  tlie  wind  was  too  strong  anil  biting  to  permit 
the  erection  of  the  theodolite  at  the  most  suitable  places. 
There  was  also  very  great  difficulty  in  identifying  the 
points  which  had  to  be  observed.  All  of  them  had  been 
fixed  by  Colonel  Wahab  from  the  west,  from  which  quarter 
I  had  never  seen  them.  I  was  doubtful  of  my  longitude, 
and  my  perplexity  was  increased  by  the  action  of  the 
wind,  which  altered  the  direction  of  the  ruler  on  the  plane 
table,  aligning  it  now  to  one  peak,  now  to  another,  each 
apparently  as  important  as  any  of  the  others.  In  fact,  to 
one  looking  westwards  from  Hill  Station  "  A,"  near  Mazar 


D  IFF  I  CI  'A  T  S I K  I  7:  ]  7A  Y/.  1 1 3 

Sultan,  there  seemed  to  l^e  an  archipelago  of  peaks,  with 
one  exception  nearly  all  about  the  same  height.  As  the 
day  advanced  the  wind  increased  in  strength,  and,  in  order 
to  get  the  observations  at  this  exposed  place  completed  as 
early  in  the  morning  as  possible,  I  twice  camped  at  an 
altitude  of  14,980  feet  in  a  small  waterless  valley,  where 
there  was  sutficient  snow  to  make  tea  with  and  just 
sutKcient  level  ground  for. a  small  tent.  Enveloped  in 
huge  fur  coats,  and  with  the  extremities  suitably  protected 
from  the  cold,  Dalbir  Kai  and  I  mounted  a  couple  of  yaks, 
the  theodolite  and  heliograph  being  placed  on  the  back  of 
a  third  yak,  and  with  two  Kirghiz  t(;  urge  forward  the 
animals,  we  commenced  the  ascent  an  hour  or  so  before 
daybreak.  The  mountain  side  was  covered  with  shale 
and  a  thick  layer  of  large  loose  stones  of  various  dimen- 
sions, and  so  steep  was  it  that  we  found  the  continual 
etibrt  to  avoid  slipping  backwards  from  the  saddle  exceed- 
ingly unpleasant.  We  therefore  dismounted  and  continued 
the  ascent  on  foot,  considerably  aided  still  by  the  yak,  to 
whose  tails  we  clung  pertinaciously.  The  Kirghiz  could 
not  understand  the  craze  \Nhich  nnpelled  me  to  climb 
mountains  in  winter  (it  was  about  the  middle  of 
November),  and  to  remain  on  their  summits  for  hours  at 
a  stretch  looking  through  a  telescope,  but  they  did  their 
work  faithfully,  and  shewed  fewer  signs  of  resentment 
than  did  the  yak,  w  liieb  now  and  then  could  only  be  urged 
on  by  blows,  rnfortunately,  though  we  were  early  at 
work,  the  strong  wind  was  as  early,  and  wc  found  it  very 
dithcult  to  make  observations.  The  observer  was  now 
and  then  blown  against  the  theodolite,  and  the  tail  of  his 
fur  coat  swept  against  the  stand,  and  the  alignment  again 
and  again  disturbed.  The  altitude  and  the  wind  (o^^ether 
made  it  dithcult  for  J)albir  Kai  to  hear  my  shouting  of  the 
entries  he  should  make  in  the  angle  book,  and  the  work 
was  delayed  i)y  the  necessity  of  repeating  the  entries  to 

9 


114    ^y  rinr/r  Axn  ciiixese  rrRKusiwx. 

civoid  mistakes.  The  work,  however,  was  completed, 
liehographic  signals  from  stations  in  the  valley  were 
observed,  and  replies  were  sent,  the  theodolite  was  packed 
up,  the  yaks  loaded,  and  a  large  pillar  was  erected  to  mark 
the  spot  for  observation  from  tlio  lower  stations;  then  we 
gladly  returned  to  the  camp  in  tlic  valley. 

The  result,  1  may  add,  was  very  satisfactory,  but  it 
was  accomplished  at  the  cost  of  frostbitten  fingers.  The 
hill  station  was  at  an  altitude  of  about  16,880  feet. 

It  was  evident  that  the  Kirghiz  and  Tajiks  of  Oprang, 
Ujadbai.  and  its  vicinity  were  most  unwilling  that  I 
should  travel  to  that  part  of  the  valley  of  the  Yarkand 
Kiver  known  as  Kaskam,  their  allegation  being  tlmt  tlie 
roads  had  been  rendered  impassable  by  eartliquakes  a  few 
years  before,  and  that  no  one  ever  used  them  now. 
After  a  short  time,  a  Tajik  was  found  who  undertook 
to  accompany  Changfunchuk,  one  of  my  men,  whom  I 
detailed  to  inspect  the  route  as  far  as  the  Yarkand  Kiver 
and  return  to  Mazar  Sultan  with  his  report.  While  this 
investigation  was  being  carried  out,  1  set  about  the 
removal  of  my  camp  to  Dprang,  at  the  junction  of  the 
river  and  the  valley  which  descends  from  the  Oprang 
Pass.  Cobbold  had  gone  to  that  neigh liourl mod  in  ijuest 
of  sliikar,  but,  in  liis  directions  for  my  guidance,  he  had 
underestimated  the  distance  from  Mazar  Sultan.  In  the 
forenoon  1  despatched  the  few  men  and  baggage  animals 
re(]uired  at  the  new  camp,  but,  witii  Dalbir  Kai,  remained 
behind  till  nearly  four  o'clock  to  complete  the  triangula- 
tion.  Tlie  man  in  charge  of  the  pony  carrying  the 
theodolite,  preferred  to  go  back  to  a  ford  which  he  knew 
near  Mazar  Sultan,  rather  than  trust  to  the  discovery 
of  one  higher  up  the  stream,  while  Dalbir  and  I  were 
taken  by  a  guide  along  a  more  direct  route.  At  the  ford 
the  river  had  l:)een  partially  dannned  by  ice  which  w^as 
not  stronii  enough  to  bear  the  weii^ht  of  a  mounted  man. 


TROrill.l:     11/  I'll    \.  \  Tl  I  7-;.S.  1  1  5 

The  ^uidr,  f,'oin^  on  in  front,  niacU-  Ins  puny  smash 
throuj^fli  the  ice.  and  thus  })r('pare(l  an  easier  passage  for 
me.  JJalbir  Kuis  pony,  however,  hein^'  allowed  io  take 
his  own  c(jurse,  mounted  on  tlie  ice  which  I)i-()ke  up  into 
large  patches,  swaying  under  their  load  like  planks  ni 
a  rough  sea.  Dalhir  Ivai  seemed  a  tender,  sensitive  man 
who  had  not  suflicient  strength  of  will  for  the  guidance 
even  of  a  pony.  When  I  remonstrated  with  him  for  not 
taking  the  prepared  course,  he  thought  it  a  sufficient 
reply  that  the  pony  wished  to  go  another  way,  and  he 
evidently  felt  aggrieved  at  my  remarks.  1  did  not  reach 
Oprang  till  about  half-past  eight  in  tlie  evening  :  hut  two 
of  the  men,  over-confident  in  their  ability  to  hnd  the 
route,  were  quite  belated,  one  of  them  having  to  spend 
the  night  in  the  open  air,  while  the  other  was  sheltered 
by  some  Kirghiz. 

A  few  days  were  devoted  to  sport  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  the  Kungerab  Pass,  where  shikar  were  plentiful,  and, 
in  the  meantime,  Islam,  aliadaki.  was  sent  to  reconnoitre 
the  route  via  the  Oprang  Pass  tn  Kaskam.  There  had 
again  been  difficulty  ni  fnuHii^  a  man  to  accompany  the 
Ladaki,  the  stereoty])ed  reason,  tjiat  llie  route  had  been 
destroyed  by  eartlujuakes,  being  strengthened  l)y  the 
rumour  that  neither  grass  nor  fuel  could  he  found  there. 
The  opposition  of  the  Tajiks  made  inc  tlie  more  de- 
termined to  go  to  the  west  end  of  Kaskam.  and  eventually 
a  native  was  found  to  accompany  Tslaiu.  The  etforts  of 
this  guide  seemed  less  directed  to  tinding  whcilicr  ilie 
route  was  open  than  to  ])i(i\ing  that  it  was  not  ;  but 
Islam  remained  faithful,  and  at  length  brought  back 
the  welcome  news  that  thi'  route  was  pt-rfectly  easv. 
with  plenty  of  grass  and  fuel  as  far  as  Issok  Ihdok 
(Hot  Sprnigs),  the  furthest  |M>nil  be  bad  been  rtM|uired 
to  reach. 


('ii.\I'ti:k  \iii 

Kartlujuakcs  —  luiskam  —  Fording  Yarkanil  llivcr  —  ]}a/ar  ])ara  — 
Approach  to  Kukalung  Pass — Zad— Kecrossing  Kukalung  Pass 
— Camp  at  16.000  feet — Incorrect  maps — l)escriptioii  of  country 
— Illness  of  Dalbir  Kai — Approach  to  Sandal  Dawan — Bivou- 
acking on  mountain-side — Dysentery  -Easy  marches — Arrival 
at  Yarkand. 

T^^'  tliis  time,  however,  Chungfuncliuk  liad  reported  that 
^  ^  the  Ihsu  route,  thoui,'h  beset  with  greater  diliiciUties 
than  that  by  Issok  Bulok,  was  quite  practicable.  Con- 
sequently I  had  a  choice  of  routes,  and  a  comparison 
of  their  respective  advantages  led  me  to  choose  that 
which  Changfimchuk  had  investigated.  Its  merit  was 
that  it  led  to  the  west  end  oH  Kaskani,  and  would  save 
two  days"  march  as  compared  with  the  Issok  Bidok 
route.  The  Tajiks,  perceiving  that  I  was  not  to  be  de- 
terred by  false  reports,  began  to  yield,  and.  while  alleging 
dread  of  eartlujuakes,  sup[)lied  me  w  ith  transport  Init  no 
guides.' 

'■'■'■  Public  orders  had  Ijcen  issued  by  the  Taotai  at  Kashgar  not  only 
that  no  opposition  was  to  be  oflered  to  me  on  my  journey,  but  that 
every  assistance  was  to  be  rendered  to  enable  me  to  travel  wherever 
I  wished.  ]}ut  it  was  subseciucntly  ascertained  that,  secret  orders 
had  been  given  to  the  Ciiow-Kuan  at  Tashkurghan  canceUing  the 
puVjlic  orders,  and  enjoining  that  I  should  Ijc  dissuaded  by  reports 
of  i-oads  blocked  by  landslips  caused  by  earthquakes,  but  that,  if  I 
proved  obstinate  and  resolved  to  proceed  to  Raskam,  transport  might 
be  supplied,  but  no  guides  on  any  account. 


/■:.\/<7'//o('.\K/:s. 


1 1 


It  curiously  happciu'd  tlmt  ut  Jlisu  two  sliocks  of  eartli- 
quake  occurred  on  the  nif,'lit  of  November  lUth,  and  one 
on  the  following;  iiioiiiiiiLr.  Very  soon  after  the  first  two 
were  felt,  a  lar^'e  deputation  of  Tajiks,  with  their  head- 
men, came  to  my  tent  and,  f^reetin*,'  me  with  the  expected 
"  we  told  you  so,"  \'c.,  begged  me  to  desist  from  a  journey 
which  was  sure  to  end  in  disaster.  When  they  had 
finished  their  entreaties,  I  complained  of  the  annoyance 


TOP  OK  Tin:  ii.isr   i-ass. 


they  causfd  by  their  wanton  iiilcrriipt inn  of  ni\'  night's 
r(>st,  reijuestiiij^  them  to  leave  me  in  ])eaee  and  assui'ing 
tli(  111  that  I  ^liould  travel  to  the  Yiirkand  Kiver  by  the  route 
that  I  had  chosen.  The  men.  evidently  much  suri>i'ised 
at  the  nature  of  my  reply,  left  me  to  enjoy  my  slumbers. 

The  ascent  t<>  the  llisu  or  lli^hsu  Pass  from  the 
Taghdumbash  Tamir  is  exceedingly  stony,  and,  near  the 
sunnnit.   very  steep,  though   the  descent  into  the  Taldc 


I  IS    /.\-  rini:r  .\\n  ciiim'.si-.   ■/(/</<  us  tax. 

Kol  Su  viilU'V  provfil  (.(•mpiiriitivt'ly  easy.  It  was  in  this 
valk'v  that  I  first  hocaiuc  acciuaintt'd  with  thr  distinctive 
features  of  the  re<,non.  J^old.  riif,'i,'ed  mountains,  absohitely 
barren  and,  as  a  rule,  so  precipitous  as  to  be  within  very 
few  de<,a'ees  of  the  vertical,  towered  above  us  on  either 
side  to  a  consideraljle  lieij^'ht.  The  winter  sun  in  many 
phices  c(nild  scarcely  reach  the  boltinii  of  tlu-  valK-y.  and, 
wliere  it  did,  it  was  only  for  a  little  while.  At  such  spots 
we  turned  the  animals  loose  (as  at  Ilak  \\  ydi;  that  they 
mii,dit  search  for  food.  The  grass  at  Gezuk  was  short, 
here  it  was  long  and  coarse  of  the  sort  called  kamish,  but 
so  dry  as  t(j  be  of  little  value.  The  lower  })ortion  of  the 
valley  was  choked  up  with  jungle,  and  in  many  places 
tliere  was  ice  which  had  to  be  roughened  or  overspread 
with  earth  to  hi'  rendered  passable  for  the  baggage 
animals.  I'mm  the  gorge  which  forms  tlie  mouth  of 
this  valley  we  entered  the  Kaskam  valley  which,  only 
a  few  years  before,  owing  to  the  dei)redations  of  the 
Kanjuts,  was  forbidden  ground  to  l^ritish  travellers.  I 
believe  that  Messrs.  Church  and  Phelps  were  the  only 
]^)ritish  travellers  who  had  ever  passed  through  the  valley, 
and  the  fact  that  this  was,  in  a  manner,  virgin  soil, 
rendered  this  portion  of  my  journey  the  more  interesting. 
I-'rom  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Yarkand  or  Kaskam 
I  )aria.  as  the  river  is  called  at  Sarok  Kamish,  there  is  a 
well-marked  trail  leachng  up  to  Topa  Dawan,  and  thence 
by  a  series  of  exceedingly  steep  zigzags  into  a  very 
narrow  and  deep  valley  in  which  there  is  plenty  of 
jungle.  It  was  in  this  (hrection  that  I  was  most  anxious 
to  proceet],  but  the  ivnite  had  to  be  abandoned,  as  the 
men  with  th<'  hired  transport  not  only  denied  all  know- 
ledge of  it.  but  fiatly  refused  to  accompany  me  in  any 
other  direction  than  that  to  Bazar  l^ara.  At  the  east 
end  of  Sarok  Kannsh,  the  mountains  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Yarkand  Kiver  were  .so  steep  as  to  be  quite  inaccessible 


A'./\A'./.I/. 


119 


to  one  burdoncd   with  a  lai-f^e  theodolite,   and  I  had  to 
content   myself    with    those    on    the    right    l)ank   whicli, 
thouf^h  not  so  steep,  were  too  low  to  afford  a  view  of  the 
peaks  fixed  from  the  nei<,dil)ourhood  of  ^Slazar  Sultan. 
Tlie    tract   known  as  Kaskam,   is  that  portion  of  the 


■*. 


"^1 


SCKNE    IX    VAI.l.l.V    I'K    TICK    TAI-I>K    K 


valley  of  the  Yarkand  River  stn^tehinj,'  from  Razar  Para,  a 
small  fort  at  the  month  of  the  I)o/.ak  l>ara  Sii,  westwards 
to  the  jioint  where  the  ii\ir  turns  sharply  to  the  north. 
Thr  uiiiidialtitt'd  valley  is  hounded  hy  stei'j)  and  loftv 
mountains,  utterly  harren,  and  with  the  exception  of  tiie 
Miskan  dilj^a,  a  small  valk-y  to  the  north  of  Topa  I>awun. 


I20     /.V    TH'I'T   AM)    CHIXESE    TCKKF.STAX. 

where  there  is  ;i  htllc  lultiviition.  Jind  ;i  tew  spots  of 
which  Azj:jar  ami  Kuktash  are  the  more  important,  the 
whole  valley  is  unfit  for  cultivation.  A  few  hundred 
yards  east  of  Azf,'ar  the  valley  is  very  narrow,  hut  opens 
out  a  little  near  Surukwat,  or  Karaul,  where  there  are 
small  trees  and  a  patch  of  good  short  grass.  This  spot, 
situated  in  a  semicircular  depression  hetween  the  river 
and  a  series  of  cliffs  almost  all  vertical,  forms  a  con- 
venient camping  ground.  A  short  distance  heyond,  the 
valley  again  resumes  its  gorge-like  aspect.  13y  far  the 
widest  portion  of  liaskam  is  at  Chiung  Jangle  (Large 
Jungle),  where  the  bottom  of  the  vailcv  coiif aius  Idw 
dense  jungle  but  little  grass. 

The  Mir  of  Hunza  and  the  Kanjuts,  as  1  was  informed 
before  leaving  the  Taghdumbash  Pamir,  laid  claim  to 
liaskam,  with  what  justice  I  cannot  say.  The  eagerness 
of  the  Kanjuts  to  be  allowed  to  return  to  this  barren  land, 
and  to  resume  the  cultivation  of  its  few  cultivable  patches 
was  very  remarkable.  They  believed  that  by  means  of 
irrigation  fair  crops  could  be  raised,  but  wlun  one  thinks 
of  the  long  distance  from  Hunza  to  Kaskam,  of  the 
absence  of  facilities  for  communication,  the  miserable 
foot  tracks,  and  the  wide  and  rapid  rivers  to  l)e  crossed, 
it  is  only  fair  to  assume  that  these  brave  and  hardy  men 
were  influenced  by  a  strong  attachment  to  tlieir  ancient 
home. 

The  march  from  Surukwat  to  Bazar  Dara,  though  only 
about  ten  miles,  took  a  long  time  to  accomplish  owing  to 
the  necessity  of  fording  the  river  repeatedly.  The  di[)th 
of  the  watei".  the  strength  of  the  current,  and  the  stonj' 
nature  of  the  bottom  made  it  difficult  for  the  mules  and 
ponies  to  keep  their  footing.  On  December  5,  1807, 
there  was  a  margin  <>f  very  thick  and  slippery  ice 
extending  for  some  yards  from  each  bank.  The  man 
who,  for  the  time,  was  acting  as  guide,  and   whose  duty 


FORPIXC    YJRK.W/^    Rfl'/iR.  121 

it  was  to  find  where  the  river  could  he  most  cr)nveniently 
forded,  h;id  ;i  l><iiiy  whieh  was  ([iiite  accustomed  to  the  ice. 
The  t^'uidc  thou^dit  nothinfj  of  tlie  (httioulties  of  those  wlio 
were  less  satisfactorily  mounted,  hut  holdlj'  crossed  the 
river  wherever  he  chanced  to  meet  it.  The  pony,  freed 
from  the  rider's  weif,dit,  kept  Ids  feet  on  the  ice  at  the 
near  side  of  tlie  river  ;  then  he  carried  his  master  across 
the  channel  where  there  was  no  ice,  fjave  him  a  lift  on  to 
the  ice  at  the  further  side,  and  scnnnhliiiL:  u))  without 
much  dilHiculty  reached  tertui  jirnia  heyond.  This  pro- 
ci'dure  may  have  heen  adminihle  in  itself,  hut  it  was  not 
wiuit  was  riMjuired  in  the  leader  of  a  mixed  company  like 
ours,  and  our  inconsiderate  <:^uide  was  deposed,  Kaju.  the 
caravan  haslii,  and  1  undertaking'  the  work.  \\'ith  lon<,' 
sticks  we  ascertained  the  depth  of  the  channel  and  the 
naturi*  of  its  hed.  When  the  place  seemed  suitahle,  we 
recpiisitiijned  the  services  of  tlie  quondam  ^uiide  in 
clearin*,'  away  the  ice  with  a  pick-axe  from  tlie  hank  to 
the  open  channel  of  the  stream.  Then  we  despatched 
two  nu'n  on  horsehack  to  the  further  hank  and  there 
a  similar  operation  was  carried  out,  the  ponies  haviuf,' 
been  sent  hack  for  further  joails,  half-frozen,  with  their 
tails  decked  with  loii^'  icicles  that  jinj^ded  and  rattli'd  at 
evj'rv  movement.  The  yaks.  too.  after  crossin^f.  sparkled 
uith  the  countless  icic-jes  which  hun^  from  their  lon;^ 
hair  and  tails,  hut  these  animals,  unlike  the  j)onies, 
seemed  indilTerent  to  the  cold. 

Quite  close  to  Iryar  in  this  valley,  the  route  was 
very  ditVicult.  The  track  was  narrow,  alon^,'  the  edfje  of 
steep  clitTs,  and  (tiie  of  the  ponies,  having'  lost  its  footinj,'. 
fell  to  the  ro(d<s  helow,  where  it  must  hav(>  met  instan- 
taneous death.  Ainoiiu  the  packaf,'es  with  which  the 
animal  was  laden,  were  a  ha^'  of  llour  encased  in  a  water- 
proof coviM'in^'  whit  h  was  hut  little  injured,  a  haj,'  of  corn 
wiiich    was    ^\\\\\v    torn     u[»,    and     a    ho\    containing,',    in 


122     /.\'    TIIUiT  AXn    CIIIXI'.SI'.     rrRKI-.STAX. 

addition  to  JOO  rupoi'S  in  siiiall  cluiii^a'.  ii  miiiilxr  i>l' 
tins  of  matches.  The  matches  were  i^niitid  hy  the 
concussion,  hut  the  tins  containing'  them  were  so  strong 
and  so  Hrniiy  soldered  tiiat  none  of  them  hmst.  thoiiLili 
they  were  hulked  out  hke  halloons. 

V'rom  Sarok  Kaniish  1  had  sent  foi-ward  a  nicssen^^T 
to  Bazar  Dara  on  a  hagga;.(c  pony,  to  annoiuice  my  visit 
to  the  connnandant  of  the  (.garrison,  and  when  approach- 
in^f  the  fort  ahmg  with  Kaju,  the  caravan  hashi,  we  went 
on  ahead  on  foot  to  look  for  the  best  course  for  the 
caravan  to  follow.  As  we  advanced  we  overtook  the 
pony  of  the  messenger  which  had  been  left  to  graze  hy 
the  side  of  the  track,  and  I  was  about  to  mount  when 
]\aju  seriously  remonstrated  with  me  against  such  an 
unscendy  pi'oceeding.  As  the  pony  had  only  some  rags 
for  a  saddle,  and  a  piece  of  rojjc  for  a  bridle,  it  seemed 
to  Kaju  beneath  my  dignity  and  the  dignity  of  the 
occasion,  that  I  should  enter  a  Chinese  stnjnghold  with 
no  more  sumptuous  equipment.  The  earnest  manner  in 
which  he  protested  and  urged  me  to  wait  for  my  proper 
pony  was  very  anuising,  and.  to  his  keen  satisfaction, 
1  ac(piiesced,  so  that  when,  soon  afterwards,  some  of 
the  garrison  of  the  small  walled  enclosure,  which  the 
Chinese  call  a  fort,  rounded  the  corner  and  salaamed  to 
me,  1  was  able  to  respond  to  their  greeting  with  becoming 
state.  The  love  of  outward  show  seems  supplied  in 
excess  by  Xatui'e  to  the  Oi'icntal   mind. 

The  garrison  at  this  ]ilac('  nominally  consists  of  twenty 
Kirghiz:  and  the  I'.cg  of  Zad,  in  whose  district  it  stands, 
receives  pay  and  hxjd  for  the  support  of  that  nund>er; 
but,  in  accordance  with  the  usiuil  methods  of  Cliinese 
othcials,  this  functionary  pockets  most  of  the  pay  and 
maintains  only  a  few  imarmed  men.  In  most  countries 
flags  are  not  regarded  as  part  of  the  soldier's  armament, 
but  here  there   appeared   to   be    no   military  equipment 


.\r/'RO.\c/f  70  k'CK.i/.cxc  r.iss.     12.^, 

whiitt'Vt'i-.  cxo'pt  til"  liir^ff  yellow  lla;^'  wiiicli  was  lioistcd 
daily  diiiiii;;  the  lew  days  of  my  visit,  so  lliat  this 
Celestial    I'oit    may    fitly  Ix'    dcsci-ihcd    as  ai-iiifd    witli   a 

The  valli-y  at  the  mouth  of  which  r.a/ar  1  )ara  is 
situated,  well  deserves  the  name  of  1  )o/.ok  Dara  (Diftieult 
Valley),  for  it  is  stony  and  barren.  The  pass  at  its  head, 
the  Kukahmfj  Pass,  thou^di  1(),000  feet  hi^di,  is  not 
dirticult  whiii  free  from  iic  hut  as  we  approached  it  we 
found  the  valley  in  some  plaees  not  more  than  twenty- 
five  feet  wide,  and  eneumhenMl  with  slipjiery  and  slopin^^ 
ice.  Jlere  the  animals  fared  very  hadly.  es])ecially  the 
mules,  which  quite  belied  their  reputation  for  sure- 
footedness,  slip[)in<,'  and  fallinj,'  far  oftener  than  any  of 
the  ponies.  At  Tapiii  (hat  (14,800  feet)  we  halted  for 
the  ni<,dit  before  crossing'  the  pass,  but  there  the  altitude, 
the  cold  wind,  and  the  absence  of  vefretation  made  the 
conditiiins  too  trying  for  the  ba«,'f,'ar,'e  animals.  Hasten- 
ing foiwaid  we  reached  Zad,  the  largest  permanent 
encam[)ment  of  Kirghiz,  in  the  Kulan  Trgi  valley,  wiiere 
we  remained  a  few  days,  and  then,  having  obtained  sonu* 
fresh  yak.  we  si't  out  to  recross  the  pass,  in  order  to 
connect  the  triangulation  with  tliat  from  Ha/ar  l)ara. 
Most  of  the  men  and  all  the  mules  and  ponies  wei-e  left 
at  Zad  to  recuperate,  while  halhir  Kai  and  I,  with  hass 
the  cook,  and  Changfunchuk  who  acted  as  inlerprett'r, 
along  with  two  Kirghiz  who  looked  after  three  yak,  re- 
ascended  the  slope  towards  the  p.iss.  The  yak  could 
endure  the  strain:  they  are  ])aticnt,  plodding  animals, 
not  sensitive  to  cold,  and.  being  rmninant.  cati  without 
diffit-ulty  be  without  food  for  a  few  days. 

'J'he  work  of  a  surveyor  at  an  altitude  of  I  l.TdDfeet  is 
not  in  itself  atti'active.  It  retpnres  some  resolution.  wIhmi 
the  thermometer  is  below  zero  !•'.,  to  bear  exposure  duiing 
the  greater  part   of   the  day  to  a  strong  freezing  wind, 


IJ4     /•^'    '/'I />/■:/'   ./.\/)    (  7//.\7-;.s7:     /'CR/</-:S7'.\\. 

while  oil  llif  iiu>iist;u-lir  and  l>i'ard  icicles  Innii,  wliicli  can 
only  be  fjot  rid  of  by  nifltinpj  before  a  sun  iky  tire  of  diin^f. 
The  work  at  Tapin  Chat  was  nnd<)ul)tedly  tryin;^.  luit  thai 
at  the  pass  itself,  from  1C),()00  to  17,000  feet  in  height, 
was  niiu-h  more  so.  On  Christmas  Day,  1H97,  we  be<,'an 
early,  and.  after  measuring  a  base  with  the  subtense  bar, 
entered  on  a  dil'licult  ascent  tow'ards  a  commanding  s])ot 
where  Changfunchuk  had  already  enacted  a  [)illar.  The 
steep  slope  was  slippci'v  witli  I'lesli-t'allen  snow,  ami  hy 
the  time  we  had  reached  tlie  pillar  and  had  lixed  the 
theodolite  in  position,  a  strong  wind  had  arisi'ii  which, 
with  the  temperature  several  degrees  Ix-low  zero,  made 
observations  difficult.  A  sudden  gust  wmild  impel  me 
against  the  eye-piece,  or  blow  my  coat-tail  against  the 
stand  of  the  theodolite,  and,  unless  1  used  a  piece  of 
paper  or  cardboard  to  screen  my  face  from  the  instrument 
when  reading  the  vernier,  my  beard  or  moustache  in- 
variably got  frozen  to  the  metal.  Such  matters  seem 
trifling,  hut  attentinn  to  thciii  f(  ndeicd  the  work  slow, 
while  neglect  of  them  retarded  it  still  more.  When  we 
had  completed  these  observations,  we  found  it  more 
difticult  to  descend  from  this  hill  station  than  it  had  been 
t(j  reach  it.  We  tried  a  more  direct  line,  l)ut  the  slope 
was  too  steep.  There  was  serious  risk  of  falling  down 
the  mountain-side  or  of  spraining  the  ankle  hy  treading 
on  the  treacherous  pieces  of  shale,  and  it  was  necessary 
to  wait  till  the  trusty  yaks,  managed  by  one  of  the  sure- 
footed Kirghiz,  had  made  a  series  of  footholds  for  our 
descent. 

At  the  pass  there  was  no  fuel  to  be  found,  ^^'e  had 
brought  two  sacks  of  dung  and  boortza  from  Tapin  Chat, 
and  this  sufficed  to  make  hot  tea  in  the  morning  and  to 
cook  our  dinner.  ]^>ut  the  supply  we  had  ordered 
Mohammed  Ainin's  men  to  bring  did  not  arrive,  and  our 
operations  at  the  pass  w'ere  therefore  shortened.     As  soon 


/XCOKR/iCT  .]/.l/\S.  125 

as  we  had  finislu'd  tlu'  work  on  liaiid  and  liad  placed  tlir 
iiistniiaents  securely  on  the  yak,  1  set  out  on  loot  and 
reached  camp  in  the  Kulan  Ur^^i  valley  about  ten  o'clock 
in  the  evening'.  Dalbir  luii  preferred  to  ride,  and  was  much 
later.  The  exposure  and  privation  had  been  too  nuich 
for  Dali)ir  Kai,  and  he  became  feverish  and  very  unwell. 
For  a  time  1  was  deprived  of  his  assistance,  and  in  fact 
he  nevtr  did  recover  from  the  hardships  of  those  days. 
In  this  (the  third)  crossin^^  of  the  Kukalung  Pass,  the 
tube  of  the  full  length  mercurial  barometer  was  broken, 
but  I  had  a  spare  on«  in  which  a  few  air  bubbles  had 
found  entrance  into  the  column  of  mercury.  These  could 
not  be  got  rid  of  by  shaking  and  tapping,  but  I  was  able 
to  dispel  them  by  carefully  heating  the  tube  over  the 
camj)  tiic. 

As  I  became  better  acquainted  with  this  region,  my 
faith  in  the  only  map  I  had  l)ecame  weaker,  and  when  I 
reached  Issok  J^ulok  Agzi  in  latitude  37°  N.  and  found 
that  I  was  still  two  days'  march  from  the  Yarkand  Uiver. 
my  confidence  in  the  map  (juite  vanished. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  Fortash,  1  made  unsuccessful 
efforts  to  find  an  accessibk'  peak  whence  I  might  obtain 
a  connnanding  view  of  the  country  we  were  about  to 
traverse.  \\'e  discoven-d  an  eminence  which  seemed 
suitable  for  a  hill  station,  and  one  of  the  men  whom  1 
had  trained  to  the  work,  lai)oured  at  the  erection  of  a 
pillar  of  stones,  but  the  task  was  found  to  be  impractic- 
ai)le.  Keturning  to  Issok  ]iulok  Agzi,  1  began  to  take 
observations  of  moon  culminating  stars  for  longitudi',  but 
this  work  was  sto])[H'd  hy  bad  weather,  and,  as  the  season 
of  heavy  snowfalls  was  about  to  commence,  the  only  course 
open  to  me  was  to  si't  out  for  the  plains  ol  Turkestan  as 
speedily  as  possible. 

From  Issok  Bulok  Agzi  to  Tii-.  the  largest  village  in 
llie    Kulan    I'rgi    \alle\-,    and   al>oui    live    miles    from    its 


126   /.\'  /v/.v:/"  .i.v/)  cn/\/:s/i  riRKHsr.ix. 

junction  with  the  valley  of  the  Yaikand,  tiie  route  lay 
along  the  bottom  of  the  valley.  Mountains,  utterly  barren 
and  Um  precipitous  to  be  clinibetl,  except  at  one  place  near 
Yagzi,  rose  to  a  great  height  on  either  side.  At  some 
places  the  river  was  frozen  over  and  we  could  cross  on  the 
ice,  but  between  Issok  ISulok  Agzi  and  Vagzi,  the  current 
was  so  rapid  that  the  stream  was  (^nly  partially  bridged  in 
this  fashion.  From  a  point  a  little  above  Yagzi  down  to 
the  Yarkand  Kiver,  there  are  numerous  patches  of  cultiva- 
tion with  apricot  trees  scattered  about.  In  fact,  whcrtNcr 
cultivation  is  possible  it  is  carried  on. 

There  were  two  direct  routes  from  Tir  to  Yaikand,  oni; 
over  the  Karamut  Ihiwaii,  wliicli  was  said  to  be  execrable 
owing  to  the  steepness  of  the  rocky  sides  of  the  valley; 
the  other  by  Sandal  ])awan,  which,  in  accordamc  with 
the  advice  of  the  Yuz  Hashi  (Head  nl  a  Iliiiidird  Men)  of 
Tir,  I  resolved  to  follow.  The  only  dil'hculty  of  whii-h  1 
was  told  in  this  route,  was  a  slide  of  bare  rock  where 
animals  had  to  be  unloaded  and  hauled  up.  This  obstacle 
we  reached  early  in  the  day,  and  being  supplied  with  a 
party  of  villagers  for  haulage,  we  set  vigorously  to  work. 
The  task  was  laborious  and  tedious,  some  of  the  animals 
were  hurt  in  their  struggles,  and  it  was  not  till  dark  that 
wi'  succeeded  in  reaching  a  fairly  open  space,  some  few 
hundred  yards  al)ove.  This  was  a  cheerless  sjiot,  called 
Keshna.  at  an  altitude  of  10,000  feet,  where  we  found 
little  grass  for  the  animals,  but  a  sutticiency  of  fuel  and 
water.  The  Ww.  Hashi  having  assured  us  that  there  was 
no  other  serious  obstacle  on  the  loute,  he  and  his  miMi 
went  l)ack  to  their  homes.  Their  representations  prcned 
much  fairer  than  tlie  truth,  for,  when  we  had  gone  half- 
way from  Keshna  to  the  top  of  the  Sandal  Dawan,  which 
is  Ki.OOO  feet  high,  we  came  upon  so  steep  a  slope  that  the 
animals  had  to  be  unloaded  and  the  baggage  carried  up  by 
the  men.     Wa  had  here  few  hands  to  do  the  work,  and 


Arr/<o.\c/f  TO  s.\x/).\L  n.iw'.w.      127 

llu-  process  was  lon^'thy  ;  l)Ut  with  this  exception  the 
track  to  the  siuiiiiiit,  though  steep,  was  on  the  whole 
not  l)a<l.  It  faci'd  soutliwards.  and  was  free  from  snow. 
Looking  from  the  sunnnit  northwards,  we  found  a  ])eri- 
lous  descent  before  us.     The  slope  was  steep  and  coven  d 


*si' 


li.Vl'UNU    Y.VKS    ir    A    I'HKCirilK    XKAIl    TIIK    S.VMiAI.    I.VWAN. 


with  snow,  so  that  lioth  nun  and  animals  luul  many  a 
tumble.  \\  t  iio[)i(l  that  things  would  improve  wiien  we 
reached  lowir  ground,  but  there  we  had  to  reckon  with 
very  slippery,  sloping  ice,  on  which  the  animals  fell  and 
slid  for  yards  together.  J^y  scattering  earth  t)ver  the  ice 
\M'   wi're   able    by    dusk,    with   the    foremost  part    of    the 


I2S     /.\'    TiniiT  AXn   CHINESE    7CRKES7AX. 

caravan,  to  reach  a  grassy  slope,  \\here  we  found  a 
small  excavation  used  by  shepherds  in  summer.  "  Here 
]^ass  lighted  a  fire  of  yak  dung,  and  about  nine  o'clock 
Mohammed  Amin,  the  old  Pathan,  arrived  with  his  party, 
very  tired  and  without  baggage,  all  of  which  had  been  left 
some  little  distance  behind.  It  is  worth  mentioning  that 
the  full-length  mercurial  barometer  and  spare  tubes  filled 
with  mercury  survived  this  day's  journey. 

Early  next  morning  several  villagers  from  the  Asgan  Sal 
valley  came  hurriedly  to  our  bivouac  (Camp  81),  anxious 
to  know  why  I  had  not  reached  them  in  the  evening. 
Being  satisfied  on  this  point,  they  asked  why  I  had 
chosen  the  more  difficult  and  longer  route,  in  prefer- 
ence to  that  over  the  Karamut  Dawan.  When  they 
had  heard  my  explanation  they  gave  free  and  emphatic 
expression  to  their  opinion  of  the  conduct  of  the  Yuz 
Bashi  of  Tir,  but  that  official  was  now  beyond  our 
reach,  and  I  could  only  report  his  behaviour  to  the 
Chow-Kuan  on  arriving  at  Yarkand. 

For  a  few  days  Dalbir  Eai's  illness  was  a  puzzle  to  me, 
but  when  we  reached  Zumchi  he  was  plainly  suffering 
from  dysentery.  He  had,  as  I  learned,  disregarded  my 
strict  orders  to  abstain  from  solid  food  while  his  tem- 
perature was  above  normal,  and  had  gorged  himself  with 
ghee  and  whatever  else  he  could  lay  hands  on.  It  was  not 
easy  to  make  an  effective  or  lasting  impression  on  this 
patient,  but  I  tried  and  had  some  success.  When  he  was 
suffering  the  pangs  of  sickness  I  cheered  him  up  with  the 
prospect  of  a  speedy  release,  indicating  that  there  was  no 
hope  of  recovery  except  by  strict  self-restraint.  My 
harangue  had  a  good  effect,  and  he  promised  not  to 
swallow  a  mouthful  of  solid  food.  It  was  necessary  to 
have  him  fed  on  milk  and  properly  cared  for  in  his 
weakness,  and  I  had  to  devise  the  means  of  his  removal 
to  a  place  of  safety.     No  stretcher   could  be  procured. 


IN  A  II. \ ni r.  I i>i.i:  corxTR ) '. 


12CJ 


so   1    liiul   liiui  carried   mi    my  l>r(l   down  the  Asgaii    Sal 
.valley,  fortunately  over  good  tracks,  to  Yarkand. 

Ever  since  leaving  Hunza,  about  the  middle  of  October, 
we  bad  traversed  desert  places,  suffering  privation  and 
luirdshi}).  Now  w'e  were  in  a  babitable  country,  where 
supplies  were  easily  obtained,  l-'rom  Zumchi  to  Yarkand 
the  whole  country  (with  exception  of  but  a  few  miles)  is 
cultivated   and    fairly  populous,  l)ut   the  breadth    of  the 


<.km;i!vi.  \i);\\ 


I  mi:  ascw  sai.  vai.m:^. 


iMillivaird  area  is  ri'striclcd  liy  llic  nccessily  for  iri-iga- 
lion.  \\  Iktc  tills  fails  ilic  coiintiv  is  a  desert  of  loess, 
with  sand  here  and  tlieic.  The  loess  e\idently  ri'aches 
to  a  great  dej>tli,  and  at  'Tar  Agzi  its  stratifii'd  forma- 
tion, seen  from  a  di^laiKH',  resembles  rocks,  in  contrast 
witii  the  mournful  wastes  on  either  side,  tlie  Asgan  Sai 
valley,  witli  its  cultivated  land  and  its  fruit  trees,  mostly 
apricots —  and,  at  Oyung,  pears  too — seems  a  paradise. 

to 


I30     /.\'    TIJiJ-:/'   .\\n   (  ///.\7:.S/:     /  (RK/:ST.\\. 

l^'roiii  ('liiinidi  I  (U's|);itclu'(l  Ivajii.  tlic  ciiriiviiii  hashi,  to 
Varkaiul,  to  ^ivc  tlu'  C'liow-lvuan  definite  infoniiation  as  to 
the  date  of  my  arrival  at  tliat  inw n.  \n  Chinese  Turkestan 
(oi-  Sill-Chiang)  the  I'Airopean  traveller  should,  t'oi-hisown 
sake,  iiitnnii  the  authorities  hcforcliimd  cunccnimL;  Ins 
niovfnu'uts.  In  ilial  ci  iinit  i\ ,  w  hudi  is  rc^ardrd  as  the 
Sihcria  of  Chiiui,  ^ood  I'cst-houst's  arc  not  innn(  rous. 
and  are  not  hal)itually  k{'[)t  clean  and  lial)ilal)le.  If  llu' 
tr;iveller  neglects  to  iiit'oi'ui  the  head  otticials  ol'  his 
a])pr()ach.  he  will  prohahiy  llnd  no  decent  lod;4in<j;  ready 
to  receive  Inni.  and   no  su[)|)lies  tor  his  cara\an. 

Trustworthy  estimates  of  distance  were  importaiil,  and 
1  was  exercised  in  discovering'  the  significance  of  native 
methods  of  indicating;"  distance.  Words  were  vague, 
and  were  seldom  used  for  this  jtui'pose.  The  tone  of 
the  \()ice.  a  shake  of  the  head,  a  movement  of  the 
hand  or  arm  were  deemed  sidlicimt  to  eidigiiten  the 
traveller  Ixjtli  as  to  direction  and  distance.  .\  little 
practice  enahled  me  to  attach  a  meaning;,  more  oi'  less 
<leHnite.  to  eacdi  gest uic.  hut  the  matter  was  often  com- 
plicated hy  the  manifest  inaccuracy  of  the  estimate  whicii 
was  offered. 

.\t  a  distance  of  a  few  miles  from  ^arkand.  I  )net  the 
postman  who  goes  twice  a  monih  to  Kashgar  and  hack, 
carrying  letters  of  huhaii  traders,  which  pass  by  the 
Taghihnnhash  l';iiiiii'  and  (iilgit.  A  little  nearer  the 
town,  the  chief  interpreter  of  the  Chow-K'uan,  accom- 
panied hy  the  Jieg  in  whose  district  1  was  to  stay, 
presented  his  chief's  red  card  and  the  usual  civil 
messages,  l-'urther  on,  Mr.  .M .  I  lackland,  a  Swedish 
missionary  stationed  at  Y'arkand,  met  me,  and  thus, 
pleasantly  escorted,  I  passed  through  the  outskirts  of 
the  Yangi  Sliahr  to  the  quarters  pre})ared  for  me.  I 
ff)und  my  place  of  rest  outside  the  old  town,  in  a  good- 
sized    fruit   <'arden  known  as  Ivjlkachi.      The   house  was 


ARRIVAL    AT    YARKAXI). 


131 


decidedly  airy,  and  altof^fetlier  would  toriu  an  a^M'et'ahle 
summer  residence;  but  on  tliat  day.  danuai\  ■_!().  1898, 
I  would  have  preferred  a  less  draujjjhty  abode.  However, 
the  place  was  preferable  to  the  noisy  and  dirty  serais 
inside  the  town,  and  my  landlord  supplied  abundance 
of  forage  for  the  animals,  thus  lif^htening  the  labours 
of  the  caravan  men,  who  well  deserved  a  rest. 

My  roonis  had  been  nicely  carpeted  throu^di  the  kind- 


\r 


I'KCLLIAlt    (iliOLOCilCAl.    KUt.MATION    IN    Till-:    ASilAN    SAI.    \  AI.I.KV. 


m'ss  of  Munshi  Uunyurd  AM,  w  ho  usliered  me  into  ibrni 
with  as  nnicli  state  as  if  I  had  been  a  |>i'rsona^'e  of  vast 
importance.  These  courtesies  1  accepted  with  all  the 
di^niity  at  my  command,  for,  as  my  caravan  bashi  had 
shown  inc.  it  is  inrxpcdifnt  tn  btlittle  oneself  in  the 
I'iast.  SubnuttiiiL;  to  the  mi'vilabh  .  I  conver.sed  with 
the  Munshi  until,  loiiu  aftei'  dark,  the  b;i»j;<j^a<,'e  aniinaN 
arrived. 


(  iiArii;i;   i.\ 

llrcfiitioii  ill  Yiirkaud  J*!!!!]!-,'  with  tlic  Aiiibaii  After  uH'ects — 
Swetlisli  luissioiiarios — Another  uttenipt  at  exploration  in  winter 
— Koute  followed  -Foiled  l»v  snowstorm — Kecrossinj,'  the  Yarkaml 
Kiver — Punishment  of  dishonest  natives  -Ineupacitated  by  illness 
— Kosarab — Return  to  Yarkand— Meeting  Macartney  and  Father 
llendriks — Stay  in  Yarkand  Apology  of  Teetai — Observing;  in 
Yan^'i  Shahr  —  lt,'noranee  of  Chinese  ottieials  Islam  Akini 
Preparations  for  exeursion  to  the  Takla  Makan — l>iseoverv  abcnit 
'•ancient''  Kliotan  MSS.— Suspicions  about  Islam  Akun. 

''Pllil  ;^iv;iler  i)ail  <>f  my  liist  <l;iy  at  Vaikaiul  was 
-*~  (U'voted  to  a  visit  to  the  Chow-Kiiaii,  coiuiiioiily  called 
thf  Aiiil)aii,  the  cliief  Cliiiu'se  oHicial.  Here,  as  elsewhere 
within  the  Celestial  Eiiipiri',  strict  ceremonial  ])oliteness 
is  expected  even  at  the  hands  of  stranj^ers.  It  is  neces- 
sary to  ;:iv('  notice  ol  an  intended  visit,  and  to  mention 
the  honr  at  which  it  is  intended  to  pay  it.  II  the  day  is 
indinky,  c.t/.,  a  <lay  of  mournin;^'  for  a  deceased  emperor, 
then  the  Yamen  is  closed  to  visitors  till  the  afternoon. 
Such  days  are  fairly  niuneroiis,  and  as  they  come  nnnid 
they  are  denoted  hy  the  words  Chi  Shen  ("Bad  omen 
day  "'i  written  on  a  yellow  cloth  spread  on  a  table  at  the 
enti'ance.  I  recognised  that,  so  far  as  they  concerned 
myself,  the  Chinese  requirenients  were  not  unreasonable, 
for  T  was  provided  with  officials  ready  to  assist  me.  One 
of  these  T  sent  to  make  the  announcement  of  my  visit  in 
the  proper  manner.     Taking  my  visiting  card,  a  piece  of 

>3i 


./   /7.S//'  /()   run  CHOW'-KC.ix. 


i.vS 


hri^^lit  red  paper  ')  inclics  loii^f  and  \\  iiu-lics  wide,  lit- 
Went  t(t  the  Yaiiuii  and,  sending  in  my  name  to  the 
Chow-Kuan,  intimated  tlie  Imnr  of  tlie  intended  visit.  The 
Chow-Kuan,  with  tlie  civility  usual  in  such  circumstanees. 
ri'plied  that  lie  would  i»e  ))leased  to  receive  me  at  tlie 
a[)iiointed  hour.  'i'lie  questioii  of  dress  is  of  course 
imi)oitanl,  and  a  Kui'ojiean  ti'aveller  does  well  to  provide 
himself  heforehand   with  raiment   suitable  for  su»-h  occa- 


IMIIVMK     |i>     III!      ^\\||;S      \T     \Mlh\\|i 


sious.  Chinese  olticiais  do  Hot  under-o  the  har(Uhi|)s  i.f 
exploreis,  and  can  make  n<>  allowance  lor  a  ;,MU'st  with 
travel-stained  clothine.  If  mi,'  intends  ti>  appear  in 
unifoi'in.  he  is  expected  to  ^Mve  due  notice,  that  his  host 
may  he  cori'espondin^^'ly  airayed.  I  had  now  no  riiiht 
to  wear  umfonn.  hut  put  on  the  hri^htest  ^'annents  I 
possessed  a  smoking'  jacket,  knickerhoj-kers.  h-;:;:in^'s. 
brown     boots,    and    a    ti-rai    hat    with    scarlet    pu;,'^'aree. 


i;v}    /\    77 />'/■:/'  ./.\7>  (//j\/:sr.   rcNKr.sr.i.y. 

l''.sc()rtf(l  l)y  the  \W"^  in  wlmsr  disinct  1  lod^^'fd  and  l>y 
MiHishi  Hiinyanl  Ali.  and  attfiiiU'd  hy  my  oiih-rly,  Ahdul 
Kariin.  and  my  caiavan  liaslii.  Kaju.  1  indct'cdcd  mi 
horst'hark  ttt  the  \'am('n  in  tlic  miildli-  of  the  \  an^i 
Slialir.  In  tlic  outtT  courtyard  were  several  tiny  ^'nns. 
not  more  than  a  foot  loii}^',  fastonod  to  pieces  of  wood  a 
little  above  the  level  of  the  <,n-ound.  With  these  a  salute 
was  fired  in  my  honour,  much  to  the  alarm  of  my  j)ony. 
which  was  further  perturhed  hy  the  crowd  of  iojifi'rs  that 
rushed  in  from  the  hazaar  to  see  wluit  was  goin«;  on.  I 
dismounted  at  the  entrance  to  the  inner  courtyard,  wherr 
the  main  doors  were  opened  for  my  recejition,  the  side 
doors  hein<,f  usi-d  hy  the  rest  of  the  company.  ()n  entering,' 
I  was  mi't  hy  the  Chow-Kuan,  a  courteous  eldi-rly  man. 
who  shook  hands  with  me  and  escorted  me  to  the  recep- 
tion room  on  the  east  side  of  the  buildinj,'.  We  advanced 
to  the  end  of  the  room,  and  there,  with  due  formality,  the 
inevitable  cup  of  tea  was  at  once  i)resenti'd  to  me  hy  my 
]i(tst,  wiio  raised  it  to  his  liead  and  then  placed  it  on  the 
small  low  tahle  hetween  our  seats.  I  had  been  impressed, 
not  unfavourably,  by  the  external  appearance  of  the 
Yanu'n.  with  its  <,'audily-painted  arches,  and  was  a  little 
disappointed  with  this  small,  badly  li<^hted.  din<,'y  ajiart- 
meiit  when-,  at  the  ojtposite  end,  a  comi)any  of  ra^'^'cd 
and  unwashed  underlin^^'s  were  permitted  to  remain.  The 
{'how-Kuan  and  1  conversed  in  a  leisurely  way  throufjb  the 
medium  <»f  two  interpreters,  and  I  liad  ami)le  time  to 
study  th<'  faces  of  the  company.  I  mimched  the  sweet- 
meats with  which  my  host  with  his  own  hands  supplied 
m«',  and  observed  that  the  nails  of  his  (in^'ers  j)rojected 
about  half  an  inch.  I  mentioned  my  fjri<!vance  a^'ainst 
the  Yuz  ]^ashi  of  Tir.  who  had  fjiven  me  false  information 
concerninf,'  the  Sandal  Dawan  route,  and  the  Chow-Kuan 
blandly  promised  that  he  should  be  punished.  The  inter- 
view   was  lengthy  and  tedious,  and  I   felt  relieved  when 


./  sr /■:/■: /n'  kj-./cnx  i/mi.  \y^ 

tlu'  time  fMiMf  for  (It'p.irtiirt'.  As  I  Icli  the  ^':llln•ll  the 
pop^nins  ii^MJli  sounded,  and  I  j»nH-eeded  at  a  (|uiet  pace 
tlin>ii;,di  the  ha/aar  towards  my  <iiiarters.  I  had  not  <,'one 
far  when  the  news  reached  nie  that  the  Chow-K'iian  was 
already  half  way  thither  on  the  rettnii  \isit.  Setting;  off 
at  a  *,'allop.  I  reached  Kolkaehi  in  time  t<»  wt-leome  my 
former  host.  He  came  in  a  two-wheeled  cart,  oi-  marjia. 
drawn  hy  a  veiy  line  nude,  and  he  was  provided  with  a 
mnnerons  retinue  of  ta»,'-ra^'  and  l)(d)tail.  Some  of  his 
attendants  carried  jilai-ards,  one  an  und>rella,  another  a 
«jonj^  to  ^'ive  notice  of  the  ap))roa(  li  of  this  distin«,Mnshed 
ma;,'istrate.  With  his  c(»nsent  1  took  several  photo^'raj)hs 
of  him.  hut  as  all  my  )>hoto«,'rai)hs  were  developed  hy 
^^essrs.  Law  I'rothers.  at  linhaila.  I  coidd  oidy  promise 
him  a  print  in  the  distant  futinc.a  pionnse  whicdi  scarcelv 
satislied  him.  ( )n  the  whole,  the  Chow -K'nm  w  :i-,  i.m^id.  - 
rate,  anil  his  \  isit  was  of  short  duration 

Varkand  has  often  heen  descrihi-d,  and  1  lu-i-d  not 
repeat  details  with  which  readers  of  hooks  of  tiavel  in 
Asia  an*  familiar.  TIk^  dirty,  ^doomy  ha/aar,  with  its 
tund>le-dow  II  appearance,  cannot  he  called  pleasant,  imt 
it  is  certainly  picturesipie.  The  most  fre(pient«'d  streets, 
however,  and  the  niost  interesting',  are  very  narrow  and 
far  too  dark  for  the  pmposes  of  an  amateur  photo<,'rapher. 
On  the  first  day  of  the  Chinese  new  year  duld  as  a  ;,'ala 
dayt  there  was  a  icmarkahle  di>play.  intended  as  a  nnli- 
tary  para<le.  outside  the  ^'aii^d  Shahi-.  The  company  of 
men  claiming,'  to  he  soldiers  was  no  heiter  than  a  nihhle, 
thou^di  provided  with  a  plentiful  supply  of  larj,'e  flag's  and 
a  fair  nundxr  of  anticpiated  mu/zled«>adinj^'  lireanus  with 
very  had  hiack  powder.  In  the  evenin;,'  tiie  Chow-Kuan 
j,'ave  a  diimer  at  whi(  li  I  was  the  honoured  «;uest.  The 
repast  was  served  at  a  lar;,'e  round  tahle  under  the  portico 
of  the  imirr  comtyard.  in  order  that  the  ;»ue8ts  iiii^lit 
witness    a    ^traiiLTe.    drear\    performance    in    which     the 


\    iim:r  .i\/)  c  ///.v/is/-:  7('/<k/-:s/\\\. 

Dni^'on  \v;is  ;i  pnniiiiuiit  li<,'iiit'.  Tlic  ii-pn-si'iitatioii  was 
vaiietl  in  an  t'lratic  sort  of  way  by  S(juil)s,  but,  for  me,  it 
was  wholly  imintciestinj,'.  Not  bavin«j  expected  an  open- 
air  feast  in  the  deptli  of  winter.  I  had  h'ft  my  fur  coat 
heliind.  and  sat  shivering'  in  my  smokinf^'-jacket,  while 
the  wearisome  irpast  w«iit  on.  Anxious  not  to  (itrciid 
the  Chinese  by  any  ap|tearance  of  indilTerence.  1  had 
]">osted  l\aju  behind  the  Chow-Kuan  at  the  o)>))osite  >-ide  of 


NKW     VKMl  S    KKSTIVITIK„S    AT    \  MIK  KM>. 


the  table,  whence  he  coidd  si<,fnal  to  me  as  occasion  mif,dil 
re(juire.  The  dishes,  as  they  were  served  one  after  another, 
seemed  interminable.  There  were  more  tlian  thirty  in  all, 
some  of  them  very  j,'ood  (for  exan)[)le.  stewed  duck  and 
pastryl.  but  others  were  bad  and  even  repulsive.  'J'he 
viands  had  to  be  waslied  down  with  vile-smellin*,'  raw 
spirits  of  local  manufacture,  served  in  small  cups  almost 
saucer-shaped.    Several  times  I  tried  to  evade  the  refresh- 


n/x/xc  WITH  riii-.  amt^ax 


im-lits  both  si)li(l  Ulltl  fluid  oil  llic  |»l«;i  ol'  ill-licallli.  hill 
ill  ciifli  case  1  was  constrained  to  comply  with  native 
custoni.  Sonu'  of  the  usa^'cs  at  taldr  were,  to  say  the 
least,  disaijreeahle  to  think  of.  It'  a  <,'iu'st  had  not 
emptied  his  cup  when  thf  time  caiiie  t'oi-  replenishing  it. 
its  contents  (Whatever  niij,dit  have  heeii  lel't)  were  poured 
hack  into  the  s|>irit  kettle,  and  then  it  was  refilled.  The 
^'uests  were  not  supplied  willi  separate  table  napkins,  hut 
were  not  left  absolutely  unj)rovi(U'd  for  with  respect  to 
such  comforts.  .\ii  attendant  handed  rouiKJ  to  them 
successively,  in  (hie  rotation,  a  i^M'easy.  st»Mmin^f  cloth, 
wher<'witli  each  wiped  hi>  hands  and  iiioutli.  When  iii\ 
turn  came  1  made  a  strenuous  et'l'ort  to  decline  its  use, 
but  a  look  of  calm  sur|)rise  from  the  Chow-Kuan,  backed 
bv  a  se\ere  liow  ii  from  Kaju.  ([iiile  cowfd  me.  and  I 
meekly  wiped  my  haiuls  and  nioiith  with  the  tlis^Mistiii;.; 
raj,',  even  as  the  others  had  done.  It  was  not  till  late 
that  I  was  able  to  tak»'  lea\i'  of  my  host,  who  sent 
lantern  bearers  to  lij,dit  me  to  my  <piarters.  Ila\ine 
;,'one  strai;,'llt  to  the  medicine  chest.  I  swallowed  the 
most  potent  correctives  I  could  lay  bands  (»n.  but  from 
the  effects  of  that  hu;,'e  repast,  eaten  when  I  was  shixtriiif,' 
with  cold,  my  ^'eiieral  health  sufVered  severely. 

I  remained  in  Varkand  for  about  three  wei'ks  that  both 
juen  and  animals  mi^dil  enjoy  tlu-  repose  which  they  had 
fairly  earned,  hunii^'  that  time  I  had  the  pleasuic  of 
seein;.;  Mr.  liackliind.  of  the  Swedish  Mission,  almost 
daily,  and.  as  we  walked  or  rode  to;,'ether.  soiiu>tiineH  in 
the  bazaar  but  ofteiier  in  the  country,  lu*  {^ave  me  much 
information  about  the  wa\>-  "f  tb..  rbin.--'  iti,]  i),. 
natives. 

liein<,'  most  anximis  to  make  a  third  attempt  to  explore 
the  unknown  j)arts  of  Sarikol  before  the  ice  disappeared 
from  the  Varkand  Kiver.  I  went  t<i  the  Chow-Kuan  to 
explain  iii\  purpose,  as  far  as  it  had  a  definite  form,  and 


13S     /.\'    TIIUiT  AXn    i  IllXIiSIi    'n'RKESr.W. 

to  obtiiiii  t'loiii  liiiii  ilic  ]>iiiiiiisc' of  iissistancf.  'I'lic  \\\7. 
I^uslii  of  'J'ir  had  hccii  ln-oii^'ht  from  liis  \illaL;f  and,  when 
1  went  to  the  Vanii'n,  J  found  him  waiting'  to  ha\c  his 
case  disposed  of.  The  Chow-K'uan  investi;^ated  the  matter, 
and  it  seemed  clear  that  the  man  was  to  blame.  He  was 
sentenced  to  be  beaten  and,  that  be  mi«j;ht  not  be  subjected 
to  torture,  1  asked  and  obtained  permission  to  be  present 
when  the  jumishment  was  inflicted.    Some  of  the  officials 


|IKATIN<;    'WW.    VIV.    II.VSIII    OK    'lilt. 


of  the  Daniel)  ask((l  me  lo  (leal  with  the  ])ri.^oiu'r  myself, 
hill  this  1  (lechiied  to  do.  The  prisoner  was]>hieed  on  the 
stone  floor  in  front  of  the  jiid^fment  seat,  and  held  face 
d(»wnwards  by  two  or  three  men  while  another  ])eat  him 
on  the  le^'  between  the  knee  and  the  buttock.  The  short, 
rapid  strokes  of  the  thick  stick  seemed  at  first  to  cause 
little  pain,  but  in  a  short  time  the  skin  became  discoloured 
and.  at  my  intervention,  the  beating  was  discontinued. 


FOii.i-.n  nv  sxowsroRyr. 


•39 


'I'lic  CliMW  -  Ix'u.iii  Hut  only  s()ii;4lit  in  tliis  niiiniicr  tn 
redress  past  wron^^'s,  hut  ^ave  orders  to  an  ot'ticial  to 
accompany  me  when  T  set  out,  so  that  there  mi^'ht  he 
no  difficulty  as  to  accommodation  and  supphes.  It  was 
impossible  to  obtain  any  information  in  Yarkand  ref^ardin^' 
the  portion  of  the  rivei-  valley  between  the  west  end  (»f 
Haskam  and  Kosarah,  and  when  I  set  out.  it  was  with  the 
intentiiiii  of  ;ilttiii))tin<4-  to  ascend  the  valley  Iroiii  Kosarah. 


.jfcffi    Mi^A    mr^^ 


II     KItnZKN     YM!K\M>    lilVH 


'riicrc.  however.  llie  ri\er  \\;l^  WIllioUl  lee.  .iliii  I  had  to 
chan^^e  my  pl;in.  rroceedin^  lo  Lan^^ar.  a  >m;ill  vijla^'e 
which  before  my  visit  had  seldom  seen  a  l'',urop(>an.  I 
found  the  ice  still  sti'on;,'  enou;,di  to  he;ir  the  caravan  in 
crossing'  the  stream.  .\s  we  advanced,  snow  bej^an  to 
fall,  and.  hy  the  time  wc  reached  Kahhut,  it  was  falling; 
so  heavily  that  the  natives  who  accompanied  m(^  refused 
to  ^M»   fuither.      It  was.  at   the  time,  very  annoying'  to  bo 


14^.     /\    '/7/.7-;'/'   ,}\/)    LU/XJiSf-     T(  /</</■  STAX. 

(  iMmiiii<(i  ill  .liialiiiiiii  till'  ;ittt'inj)l  In  iKiss  ihc  (liriiciilt 
Kliimdiir  Pass,  hut  on  the  wIkiU'  it  ))rovi'(l  fortiiiiatf.  In 
('(•iisetjiu'ni't'  of  tlic  o|)cn-;iir  (liinicr  nn  the  Chinese  new 
year's  day  I  was  in  an  inisatisfaetoiy  eomhtion,  and  was 
t'orc-ed  i^^  restrict  my  (Uet  to  milk  or  son|),  the  former 
hein^f  sometimes  l)ey()n(l  my  |io\\er  ol  retention.  Weak 
as  1  was.  Dalhir  Hai  was  nuieh  more  heljdess,  sufferin^i 
from  rheumatism  and  lever,  so  that,  even  if  we  had 
leaehed  the  west  side  of  Khandai-  I 'ass,  neither  of  us 
would   have  heen   physieally  capahle  of  survey   work. 

The  ice  was  now  melting'  fast,  and  when,  on  {''ehruary 
I'.MJi,  We  icturned  to  Tian^ar,  the  livei'  was  almost  clear. 
Till'  water  was  so  dee|»  that  camels  IkkI  id  he  em|>|ii\cil  to 
carry  the  haj^'^^a^^e  across,  while  the  ponies  swam.  'Phis 
retrograde  movement  was  disappointing^  to  me,  and  nnist 
have  heen  more  so  to  the  ( )aii  ISashi  (I  lead  of  Ten  Men  i  at 
Tinii,'  I  ian^Mr.  This  petty  ollicial  had  procured  supplies 
h>r  nn-  and  had  heen  didy  paid  hehn'c  I  left  the  villaj^^e, 
hut  hail  not  di.'-hursed  the  money  to  those  who  had 
actually  provided  the  \arious  articles.  News  of  his 
delinipit'ucies  reached  me  on  my  retinn,  when  I  coii- 
si<|('red  it  ri^dit  and  ))roj)er,  in  m\  own  interest  aiitl  in 
that  of  the  defrauded  \illa<^ers,  to  see  justice  d(»ne.  The 
Oan  Hashi.on  hein^  arrested,  admitted  the  char^'e  aj^'ainst 
him.  and  there  was  no  ditliculty  in  making'  him  dis^'or;,'e. 
j)Ut  restitution  was  u<»t  eiioULjh.  and.  as  the  \\i'<^  of 
Sarikol.  the  only  ma^'istrate  who  was  capahle  ol  deahn*,' 
with  the  case,  was  then  at  Tashkur^dian.  some  method  of 
havin<,'  the  matter  at  once  disposed  of  had  to  he  devised. 
In  the  l\ast,  speedy  justice,  even  thou^di  rou^di,  is  more 
etTective  than  lon^'-delayed  retrihution.  and  I  determined 
IV)r  once  to  take  the  administration  of  the  law  into  mv 
hands.  I  UKjuired  of  several  villa«^ers  if  they  were  aware 
of  the  prisoner's  ^Miilt,  and  knew  what  ])unishnient  he 
w«»uld  receive  from   the  Chow- Kuan    at    Varkand    if    the 


i^i 


/)fs//oxi'.sT  \Ar/\-/:s  /T.w.s ///•:/>.     143 

iiuitlcr  wnc  icpoittd  to  liiiii.  'I'licy  told  \nv  lif  \v;is 
certainly  ;,'mlty  hihI  would  he  scvcifly  beaten  if  reported 
to  the  Cliow-Kiiaii,  ulu'icupoii  I  oidcred  Kajii  and  Al»dul 
Kariiu  to  ludd  the  deliiKjiuiit.  while  I  deliberately 
administered  twelve  hard  stioUes  on  his  hare  hwvk  with 
my  stirrup  leatlu-r.  A  similar  case  was  that  of  tiie 
^'uz  liashi  of  Oshbeldu.  who  hail  dct'raudfd  several 
villaj^'ers,  assertin«f  that  I  had  imt  paid  lor  tin  supplies 
I  had  i-eeeived.  It  seemed  to  me  that  this  otiender  was 
worthy  of  bein<,' dealt  with  at  VarUand  by  the  ("how-Kuan, 
hut  the  lu'ws  of  the  summary  justice  there  meted  out  to 
the  \\\/.  Uashi  of  Tir,  indiii'Ml  the  men  of  ()shhfldu 
to  mercy,  and  at  their  earnest  entreaty.  1  myst-lf  adnnnis- 
tered  a  firm  but  moderate  castij;ation  to  the  fraudulent 
cahnnniatoi'. 

Having'  no  contidenee  in  thf  inh»rmation  ^Mven  us 
eoneernin;^  the  fre(piented  loules.  1  resolved  to  ^^o  and 
examine  the  country  as  far  as  Kosarab,  thouj,dj  Dalhir 
iJai  and  I  were  still  until  for  work.  The  ford  between 
J'aklay  and  Aytash  presented  no  dilViculty  as  the  river 
there  is  Very  bit)ad.  and  on  l-'cbruary  "J-hd  was  very  low. 
In  tin-  day's  manh  fiom  Aytash  t<i  Kosaiab  thr  river  had 
to  b(^  forded  twiia-.  hut  more  truubU'sonie  than  the  fords 
wcr*'  a  sharji  corner  which  the  canuds  had  ditliculty  in 
turning',  and  a  couple  of  rocky  ascents  up  which  the 
ha<,'j,'a;,'e  had  to  be  carried  by  men  from  Kosarab.  Coal, 
iron,  and.  I  was  told,  co|)per,  art'  fouml  at  this  vilhif^e, 
but  there  is  little  enterprise,  and  the  minerals  are  scarcely 
worked.  Vurthei'  than  this  puiut  we  found  it  impossible 
to  advance.  The  narrow  valle\  was  hounded  by  pre- 
cipitous mountains  ;  the  tra(  k,  whiidi  only  reached  to 
^aj(■k.  was  freipiiiitly  too  narrow  and  stccj)  h>r  ba;,'^a{ie 
animals,  and  we  were  preiduded  from  trying'  the  opposite 
i>ank  by  the  river,  whi(di  was  loo  de»p  and  swift  to  be 
lordid. 


144      /y    /  7 /.'/•.  /    ./.\7'    (///.\7-:S/:     77  AVx /•  .S  /  . /.\ 

This  j»art  ot  ilic  \  aikaiul  Kimt  is  called  tlic  Zaratsliaii 
litomII\ .  "  tiill  nl'  ^'(»1<1  "  lvi\»  r.  I>iil  tlic  iiaincs  ol'  Kaskaiii, 
Clnun^  (hirj^'t'i,  and  ^'a^k;llld  Kivrr  iiiv  also  eniployt'd. 
The  naiiM-  Ziinifsluiu  is  doubtless  given  from  tlie  laet 
tliat  gold  is  occasionally  I'oiind  on  its  l)anks.  waslicd 
down   in   suiiiiinr  IVoin   tlu-  liiglicr  grounds. 

( )ii  March  Ut  we  ic-mtcrcd  Varkand  with  our  sick  h>i 
increased.  The  cold,  toggy,  windy  weather  had  put  l(»o 
severe  a  strain  on  I'tani  Singh,  and  he  was  laid  up  fur  a 
long  time  with  tever. 

It  was  with  vi'ry  great  pleasure  that  I  heard  <'t  the 
airival  of  anothei'  lMiroi)ean.  Mr.  ( ieoi'ge  Macaitney.  the 
Special  .Vssistanl  for  ("hinese  Alfairs  to  the  Kesideiit  in 
Kashmir.  The  ordinary  residence  of  thi.^  ollicial  is  at 
Kashgar,  hut  he  pays  an  annual  visit  to  Yarkaiul.  \\'e 
resolve<l  t"  have  (piarters  in  common,  and.  as  my  luaise 
at  Kolkachi  was  too  small  hir  hotii  of  us.  Macaitney 
rented  a  much  larger  establishna  iii.  not  fai-  olV.  calK'd 
("hini  l)agli,  to  which  1  removed  a  sutificiencN  of  my 
Ix'longings.  Ahout  a  hirtnight  later  we  were  joined  hy 
a  Ncry  aecomplished  Koman  Catholic  Missionary.  I''ather 
Hendriks.  a  ])utchman  who.  ui  the  course  of  a  long 
ri'sidenct'  within  tlu-  Chinese  l\mpire.  had  hecome  himiliar 
with  the  languages  and  the  customs  of  this  part  of  the 
world,  lie  was  now  stationed  at  Kashgar.  where  Mr. 
Macaitiu'y's  influence  and  lios])itality  weic  employed  in 
mitigating  the  hardships  of  his  lot. 

When  the  Forsyth  Mission  had  visited  Varkami. 
quarters  had  been  assigned  to  its  luembers  in  the  Vangi 
Shahr,  aiul  there  Colonel  Trotter  had  made  his  nocttnnal 
observations.  'I'lie  sj)ot  where  mine  were  now  carried 
on  was  in  the  outer  courtyard  of  Kolkacdii.  within  a  few 
yards  of  the  door  leading  into  the  garden.  I  was  desirous 
(^f  determining  the  difference  of  the  longitude  of  the  two 
places,  and.  to  do  so.  it  was  necessary  that   I  should  have 


ST.  I  )'    /.\'    )\IA'A.}\/>. 


"4: 


access  to  Colniicl  Ti-ottrr's  old  station.  Tlic  place  was 
now  iiikUt  iiiilitiirv  control,  and  when  Macaif ncy,  on  niy 
l)oluilf.  aj>plii'd  to  tlie  Chow- Kuan  lor  tlic  iv(]uisitt'  per- 
mission, he  was  informed  tliat  the  proper  person  to  a})plv 
to  was  the  commandinf,'  niilitarv  ofticer,  or  Teetai.  To 
this  personap;e  we  sent  an  intimation,  witli  tlic  customary 
formality,  that  we  intended  to  visit  him.  and  without 
delay   ])i()cee(led    to   his    alxxh'.      ( )n    reaching,'    his    door. 


Ml!,  li.   M^(MtT^"^;\^*  iif.<  kition   hv  tii»;   im'MN  tiiam  iis  at  yaiikam« 


however.  We  Were  inloiined  that  he  was  en<;a«jed  with 
other  visitors,  hut  that,  if  we  waited  a  little,  we  coidd  see 
him.  'Phis  messa^^e  was  unmistakahly  an  insult,  for  we 
knew  that  the  Cliow-Kuan  was  not  then  his  visitor,  and 
there  was  no  other  di;:nitary  in  the  town  who  shoulil  not 
ha\e  heen  re(|uired  to  leave  in  order  to  ;,Mv«'  place  to 
Macarliiey  \\ f  at  once  returned  td  the  Cliini  Ha;:h  and 
despatched   tin     .\l\--akal.    witlun    whose    jurisdiction   our 

I  1 


i4<^.    /x  Tinr.r  Axn  cuixi-.si-.   iirkj'.stax. 

(Iwfllin^  \sa^  siiiiiitcd.  I<i  iIh  ^:llll(■ll  lo  (icni.-iiid  an 
exphmatioii.  Tlic  Aksakal  i-anic  liack  with  many  apolof^ies 
from  the  Tcetai,  who  piot'essed  to  be  deal',  said  he  liad  not 
been  ])i-o))erly  inl'onned  hy  liis  servants  of  our  intention 
to  visit  Inni,  assured  us  that  these  careless  menials  wduld 
i>e  l)eaten,  and  promised  that  he  would  visit  us  next  day. 
True  to  his  word  the  Teetai,  soon  after  breakfast  next 
morning,  appeared  at  the  Chini  Bagh,  and,  on  entering 
Macartney's  room,  at  once  began  to  kotow  to  him,  bring- 
ing his  forehead  down  to  the  ground  in  token  of  humble 
apology.  The  action  was  directed  to  Macartney  who,  in 
politeness,  was  required  to  acknowledge  it  1)\  a  Hkc  move- 
ment, while  1  was  free  to  enjoy  the  spectacle.  My  friend 
was  not  quite  convinced  of  tlie  good  faith  of  our  visitor, 
who  might  slyly  leave  the  ceremony  incomplete,  and  he 
resolved  to  reciprocate  no  furtlier  than  occasion  demanded. 
His  observation  was  hampered  by  his  white  helmet,  which 
dropped  over  his  face  as  he  bent  towards  the  ground,  but 
he  was  able  by  stealthy  glances  to  assure  himself  that  the 
Teetai  really  did  kotow,  and  when  both  had  thus  humbled 
themselves,  the  reconciliation  was  complete.  The  Teetai, 
a  profoundly  ignorant  man,  raised  some  difficulty  as  to 
the  purpose  of  the  observations  I  wished  to  make,  for  he 
persisted  in  thinking  that  the  result  would  somehow 
enable  me  to  tln-ow  cannon  balls  within  the  city  with 
unerring  ])recision.  However,  objections  were  got  over, 
and  I  obtained  the  necessary  permission  which,  as  the 
Chow-Kuan  entered  before  the  visit  ended,  received  the 
approval  of  the  civil  as  well  as  of  the  military  authoi'ity. 
Accompanied,  by  Father  Hendriks,  who  kindly  interpreted 
for  me,  I  had  no  trouble  in  making  the  observations, 
and  the  difference  of  loii^ntude  was  accurately  determined 
chronometrically. 

My  original    intention    was   to    complete    my    survey 
operations    in   tlie   Yarkand  region  and  then   to   proceed 


lE!i.K-M 

m 

"S^^i 

' 

.^I^^^H.  ^ 

if'  ..- 

ISf.A.U   .\KC\.  140 

eastwards  into  Tibet.  The  purpose  of  my  joiiincv,  how- 
ever, beiiifT  still  uufiillillrd.  I  liml  to  rrurran^^e  my  })laiis. 
I  resolved  to  spend  the  summer  months  in  Tibet,  and  1 
clun<jf  to  the  hope  of  being  able  to  explore  the  unknown 
stretch  of  the  Yarkand  River,  when  it  would  be  frozen  over 
in  the  coldest  weeks  of  the  following  winter.  It  was  still 
too  early  in  the  season  to  stait  for  Tibet,  and  Macartney 
suggested  that  I  should  make  a  short  excursion  into  the 
Takla  ^lakan  Desert.  He  was  acquainted  with  a  man 
named  Islam  Akun,  who  had  often  sold  him  books  pur- 
porting to  be  ancient  and  to  have  been  found  in  tbr  Takla 
Makan.  My  friend  was  not  the  only  purchaser  (A  these 
Ixtoks,  for  IV'trovsky  and  nearly  all  I'iUropean  travellers 
in  the  ri'gion  had  been  induced  to  buy  them.  The  man 
professed  to  lie  ae(]uainted  with  buried  cities  in  that 
desert,  and  he  agreed  that,  acting  as  ms  guide,  he  should 
receive  no  payment  until  he  had  brought  me  to  at  least 
oiu'  bui'ied  cUy  not  prt\iou->ly  visited  by  any  I'.urojx'an. 

I)iu"ing  the  visit  of  Maeaitney  and  J''ather  Ileiidriks  to 
\aikand,  Mr.  Hackliind  received  interesting  information 
concerning  the  iiKiinifacture  of  an<-i(nt  Kot.iii  manu- 
scripts, his  iid'oiinant  being  a  boy,  the  sci\ant  of  I  M".  Jose! 
Mi'ssriir,  a  j'ersian  missionary.  This  youth,  while  at 
Khoian  the  year  before,  jiad  struck  up  a  warm  liiendshij) 
with  another  boy.  tlu-  son  of  an  enter[)rising  juoducer  of 
ancient  manusciii)ts.  and  the  information  which  reached 
the  Swedish  missionary  thidugh  these  lads  was  probably 
true  in  substance.'  .Vccording  to  the  statement  t)f  the 
boy,  the  books  consist  of  [)a^es  pi'inted  from  bbndvs 
of  pear-tree  wood,  many  of  the  characters  used  beniL: 
from  gemmie  oM  doeimieiils,  .Mier  bein^;  prmted  ilif 
pages  are  hun^  up  in  (  liimneys  until  they  assunu'  the 
recjiiired  old  look,  ami  are  then  fastened  together  in  books 

■Sec  "A  l>f|)i)it  ti!i  tlic  IWiti>.li  ( 'i)ll('<ti(>n  of  Antiiiuilics  from 
Ci'iitnil  Asia.'    l.\   A.  I'.   Itmlnlf  HkitmIc.  C.T..  I'li.h.  I'l'iil.iiii^fiii. 


I50     /\    TiniiT   AM)    CHINliSli    riRKI-.S  TAX. 

with  copper  nails  which  aio  prevciitccl  rroiii  tearing  the 
paper  by  copper  phites.  The  leaves  are  next  slightly 
damped  and  s])rinkle(l  with  sand,  tlie  copper  nails  and 
plates  are  treated  with  acid  to  produce  verdegris,  and  the 
completed  article  is  buried  in  the  desert  where  it  will  be 
found  when  wanted.  The  name  and  liabitation  of  this 
book-manufacturer  were  not  disclosed,  but  it  was  under- 
stood that  the  man  was  Islam  Akun,  and  the  place 
Khotan. 

Curiously,  not  a  single  ancient  manuscript  (true  or 
false)  was  offered  for  sale  to  me  during  my  first  visit  to 
Khotan,  though  I  inquired  about  them  and  announced 
tlic  fact  that  1  was  eager  to  purchase.  Probably  it  had 
leaked  out  that  the  system  of  manufacture  had  been 
disclosed,  and  the  owners  of  genuine  manuscripts  had 
considered  it  piudtiil  to  axoid  the  appearance  of  com- 
l)licity  in  the  fraud,  l)y  refraining  from  offering  even 
genuine  books  for  sale. 

Having  arranged  to  traved  into  the  desert  under  Islam 
Akun's  guidance,  I  set  al)out  pi'cparation.  The  chief 
difficulties  being  that  of  water  supply,  I  had  iron  taid<s 
constructed  with  padlocks  to  keep  the  contents  secure.  1 
questioned  Islam  now  aiul  then  about  his  plans  for  the 
journey,  and  he  always  adhered  to  one  general  outline  of 
liis  scheme.  Sonu^times,  however,  the  (hstances  of  the 
buried  cities  would  vary,  and  the  book-making  system 
attributed  to  him  put  me  on  my  guard.  My  suspicions 
were  not  fairl\  awakened  till  the  tanks  were  completed, 
and  then,  thinking  it  a  pity  not  to  use  them,  I  decided  to 
spend  a  p(jrtion  of  the  spring  in  the  desert,  where,  if  I 
could  light  on  no  buried  cities  or  books,  I  might  at  least 
unveil  a  fraud.  It  was  on  April  l'2th  that  I  left  Yarkand 
bound  for  the  east.  The  loads  had  been  arranged  two 
days  before,  but  Asiatics  are  slow  to  begin  a  journey,  and 
it  was  not  till  a  late  hour  that  we  were  fairly  on  the  way. 


Departure  from  Yarkand — Guma — The  Takla  Makan — Kara  Targaz 
— Waste  of  water — Ignorance  of  guides — ^Lucky  return — Punish- 
ment of  guides — lleturn  to  Guma — Journey  to  Khotan — Khotan 
— Islam  Akun  rewarded — Run  on  the  medicine  chest — Diseases — 
Chloroform — Important  operation — Departure  for  Polu — Chaka 
— Hazy  weather — Escaping  attention — Entertamed  by  a  Mullah — 
.I'olu — Stay  at  rolu— Negotiations  with  Chinese — Anxiety  about 
Ladakis — Kiria— Delay  there — Night  luurcli-  Sorguk  gold  mines 
— Raju  very  lazy — Kara  Sai. 

''PH1'>  wealluT  was  now  comparatively  wiiiin,  ilir  tcin- 
-*-  |tt'nitiiiv  ill  the  sliade,  at  '2  p.m.  on  April  I  Itli.  havin<,f 
bi'en  78"  F.,  and  1  was  desirous  of  f,'ettint^  over  tiu'  slioit 
distance  to  l^os^'ani  before  noon.  So  far  as  I  could  make 
preparation,  everything  was  ready,  hut  travellers  in  the 
Kast  are  dependent  on  Orientals  in  whose  promises  it  is  un- 
wise to  put  iuiplicit  trust.  The  Aksakal  had  l)een  deputed 
hy  the  Chow -Kuan  tn  attend  to  my  wants  while  1  was 
in  Yarkand,  and  from  Inni  I  h.id  ohtaiiu'd  tlu'  })romise  of 
a  marpa,  or  small  cai't,  which  was  to  he  I'eady  at  an  early 
hour  to  convey  the  tanks  as  hir  as  Karj^hahk.  'Tlie  houi" 
came  hut  not  the  mar))a,  and  it  was  not  till  atier  niid-(l;i\ 
that  a  vehicle  couM  he  set-ured.  The  driver  si't  a  hi<,di 
value  on  the  seivice  which  was  re(iuire(l.  demanding  a 
fare  about  four  times  that  usually  asked.  In  tii<>  bargain- 
ing, the  Aksakal  supported  th(^  driver,  but  the  demand 
being  ultiniatel\-    reilnred    1>\-   .ihoiit    one-hah.    I  agreed  to 


i;j    /.\    rini-.r  axd  ciiim-.si:   i (KKHsrAX. 

l>ay  ."{()  tongiis  (the  u>ii;il  (•liiir«ft'  bein*,'  from  IC)  lt» 
■JOi.  and  soon  at'tor  one  o'clock  I  was  on  my  way 
towards  the  desert.  This  i-oiitc  was  well  known  to 
iMH-opcan  travellers,  and  it  ^(Mincd  indikdy  that  any 
uncertainty  existed  as  to  llie  correct  j4t'()^na[)hical  position 
of  the  villa<,'es  alon<,f  the  road.  Hut  in  the  (>venin<4  of  the 
first  day  after  my  departure  fi-om  Varkand,  lime  hun;; 
heavy  on  my  hands,  and,  as  two  of  the  ihrononieters 
were  pjoin^'  very  steadily.  1  si't  ahout  taking  astronomical 
observations  to  check  the  position.  The  result  of  my 
Work  differed  from  that  of  previous  travellers  as  indicated 
on  the  maps,  and  1  ihou^dit  it  well  to  contiinie  the 
ohsei'vations,    checking     the     |Mn;4itude    at    each     halting 

l)lace. 

.\t  Kar<;halik.  after  some  little  dithculty  and  delay, 
three  camels  were  obtained  from  a  neii^hbourin^'  villa^'e, 
and  these  jonieil  me  a  few  days  later  at  the  oasis  of  ( luma. 
Kroni  this  feitile  spot  a  portion  of  the  caravan  accom[)anied 
me  one  day's  march  to  the  oasis  called  Kara  Tai'^'az.  where 
we  foun<l  many  lar^^e  trees  in  lull  lolia^c;.  Not  far  beyond 
this,  we  entered  on  the  fanjous  Takla  Makan  Desert,  the 
aj)pearance  of  which  suri)rised  me.  The  landscape  was 
ijuite  <,a*een  with  a  profusioi;  of  jil^'an,  a  species  of  tama- 
risk, and  trees,  w  hicli  seemed  as  if  bursting'  into  leaf  after  a 
l(jn^'  drought.  The  lar^e  sand-dunes,  some  nearly  -0  feet 
hi<,di,  were  covered  with  jil^Mii  and  invariably  surrounded 
with  a  ditch,  narrow  and  shallow  but  very  sliarply  defined. 
Amon^f  these  sand-dunes  I  and  my  companions,  Dalbir 
Kai,  Kaju.  Islam  Akiin,  two  local  ^uid(!s,  and  the  camel 
man  with  the  camels,  slowly  wended  our  way.  So  slowly 
•lid  we  move,  and  in  such  a  windin^^  course,  anjong  the 
dunes  and  ridges,  that  we  wvxv  at  no  great  distance  from 
Kara  Targaz  wlien  we  found  it  necessary  to  bivouac  for 
the  night.  We  used  u])  the  water  in  two  of  our  portable 
tanks,  two    of    the    camels   having    drimk    freely  from  a 


ICXOR.\\C/i    OF   CC/n/iS.  15.:; 

lar^e  wooden  bi)\\l  pioNidcd  tor  their  usr,  tliouj^di  the 
third,  hein^  uiitr;iiiicd  in  this  iniiiiiicr  nt'  p<)t;itioii,  ctjidd 
not  be  indiieed  to  do  so.  These  two  tiiiiks  we  left  for  a 
fresh  supply,  whieh  was  to  he  brcnight  from  Ivara  Targaz. 

Next  day  I  rose  early,  and,  after  awakeninc]^  my  sleepy 
company,  found  it  necessary  to  remonstrate  strongly  with 
Dalbir  Jiai,  whom  I  found  coolly  enjoying  his  morning 
ablutions  as  if  watei-  liad  been  superal>undant.  We  eon- 
tiniU'd  oui-  niiirch  through  a  country  which  presented 
little  variati(jn  from  that  which  we  had  traversed  the  day 
before.  The  ])resence  of  a  tiny  green  plant  with  long 
roots  led  me  to  hope  thnt  water  might  be  h)mid  i)eneath 
the  surface,  but  though  we  dug  deep  in  the  bed  of  a  small 
ravine,  W(>  found  none.  It  seemed  marvellous  that  the 
<limiiiiiti\e  ))laiit  could  live  and  thii\('  in  this  [)arched 
land,  where  the  sand  by  day  was  so  hot  that  even  the 
nati\ts.  with  theii-  thick-skimied  bare  tVet,  could  not 
stand  on    it   for  any  length   of  time. 

At  the  end  of  our  second  da\  s  march  in  this  desert.  I 
foimd  that  wf  were  almost  exactl\  on  the  parallel  of 
."W"  N.  latitudi'.  Next  morning,  when  we  had  goiu'  a 
shoi't  distance  from  the  spot  where  we  had  bivouacked,  it 
i)ecame  clear  that  our  guides  wvvv  (pnte  inilit  for  the 
work  tliey  had  undertaken.  When  (|uestioned,  one  of 
them  admitted  that  he  had  forgotten  the  direction  we 
ought  to  take,  and  I  at  onct'  gave  the  order  to  return.  It 
had  been  no  part  of  my  purpose  to  attempt  a  long  desert 
journey  at  this  season,  but  the  incompetence  of  guides, 
who  Were  at  fault  after  only  two  short  marches,  was 
irritating.  1  tried  to  lead  the  paity  back  to  Kara  Tar^a/. 
by  the  straightest  course,  but  this  et't'orl  had  to  he  aban- 
doned. In  ;ill  directions  the  landscape  presented  one 
unvai'ying  appearance  :  the  trei's  si'i'Uied  all  of  one  height 
and  the  siind-hills  all  of  one  sha]ie.  Again  and  again  I 
sought    to   l\tc|)   a    distant    object    in    \iew    to    direct    my 


154    /v  T/nnr  .ixn  i'///.\'/-:si-:  rrKK/:sr.\\. 

course,  but.  as  wt-  advaucod,  the  rhosni  imim  was  iiUti- 
cepted  by  duuos  or  ridges  wliicli  liail  tn  l»f  cirtMiiuvi'iitcd, 
aiul,  when  oui*  prospect  was  a;,Miii  miiiupcdt'd.  it  was 
impossible  to  identify  tlic  former  lamlmark.  As  we 
walked  back,  patiently  following,'  the  track  of  our  outward 
march,  one  of  tlu-  jjjuides  confessed  to  Haju  that  he  had 
never  been  so  far  into  the  desert  before,  and  expressed  his 
satisfaction  that  the  order  had  l>een  ^dven  to  return.  To 
escape  the  heat  and  to  mitii^ate  the  discomfort  they 
experienced  from  the  want  of  water,  the  guides  scraped 
the  hot  sand  from  tlie  surface  and  embedded  themselves 
in  the  cooler  layers  beneath,  where  they  rcmaiiird  till 
near  sunst't.  On  reaching  Kara  Targa/,  Islam  Akun,  the 
chief  delinquent,  was  nowhere  to  be  found,  the  two  local 
men  being  left  to  sutfer  whatever  penalty  nii^dit  be 
awarded.  These  two  were  merely  dupes  of  Islam  Akun, 
and  having  detained  them  two  days  in  fear  and  dread.  1 
let  them  go  without  further  punishment ;  but  on  reaching 
Guma  I  induced  the  Jk'g  to  take  means  to  secure  the 
arrest  of  the  chief  otTender. 

Having  made  satisfactory  observations  f<»r  the  detei*- 
mination  of  the  rates  of  the  chronometers,  I  icsumed  my 
journey  towai'ds  Khotan.  It  lay  mostly  through  desei't, 
where,  now  and  then,  a  little  scrub  relieved  the  monotony 
of  the  sandy  waste.  We  passed  thnjugh  several  oases,  in 
all  of  which,  owing  to  the  scantiness  of  the  winter  snow- 
fall, there  was  scarcity  of  water  foi-  irrigation.  The 
aimual  rainfall  is  very  slight,  and  it  is  to  the  melting  of 
the  snow  on  the  Kwen  Lun  range  in  the  spring  and 
summer,  that  the  inhabitants  look  for  water  for  their 
crops. 

On  May  oth  I  reached  Khotan,  where  a  cool  and  roomy 
house  on  the  north  side  of  the  street,  and  a  few  hundred 
yards  east  of  the  Yangi  Shahr,  was  prepared  for  me.  As 
a    dwelling,   this    house    was    excellent,    but    the    garden 


/.S7../.1/   ./ATA'   /</■  WW /</)/■  n. 


•55 


attached  to  it  was  small,  and  thcri-  was  not  sulVicit'iU 
open  space  for  obscrvin<,'.  I'or  this  purpose  I  had  to 
ijetake  ntysell'  to  the  roof,  which  [)roved  so  shaky  tiiat  it 
was  (jnly  l)y  placing'  two  of  the  feet  of  tiie  theodcjlite  on 
the  main  wall  and  keepinj^  my  assistants  perfectly 
motionli'ss,  so  as  not  to  disturi)  the  third  loot  while  the 
levels  were  bi'in^'  read,  that  I  eoidd  aec(»m[)lish  the  work. 
1  had  ni>t  hern  lonj^^  in   Kliolan  when  news  reached  nie 


1-1  wi    \M  \    l\    M-.i.l;vil 


that  Islam  .Vkim  had  liftii  taken,  and  had  heen  sentenced 
hy  the  Chow-Kuan  to  wear  the  i-an^nie,  a  lar^e  scpiare 
l)oard,  uei^diin^'  ahdut  :!()  IJ.v  ,  round  hi^  nrck  for  a 
month. 

At  this  lowii.  itii.r  wrilm^  and  tin-  di^pensm^'  of 
medicines  (K'eu[>ied  most  of  my  tinu'.  1  had  a  well- 
stocked  me(hcine-chest.  and.  havin;:  had  occasion  tt» 
adniiniNter  dniu;->  and  tvm  to  p.-rform  suiLjifal  and  dental 


156     /.\'    11  III-,  r  .IX/f    ClllXliSli    TCA'A'l-ST.l.V. 

Work  for  tlu'  l»t'iiftit  ol'  iiifiiilxis  of  my  own  coiiipiiiiy.  I 
sudck'nly  foiiiul  my  iiu'dicjil  skill  in  (Icmaiul.  Amoii^'  tln' 
(-•univuii  men  was  one  Soiiiiiu  Saii^',  who,  haviii^f  bt-cii 
sliowM  his  ph(jt()^rii]>li  wlitii  in  Srina«^ar.  covered  liis 
face  with  liis  hands  and  uttered  a  ^'roan  of  horror  at  his 
own  u^diness.  This  man  now  sutt'eri'd  from  a  lar^u-  and 
deep-seated  abscess  w  hicli  reijuired  to  l)e  opened.  Having 
a.  «,'ood  suj)j)ly  of  chloroform.  I  put  the  patient  midrr  its 
influence  and  successfully  oi)eiH'd  tlu*  abscess.  Anies- 
thetics  had  ne\-er  before  been  heard  of  in  that  i)arl  of  the 
World,  and  ^reat  was  the  suri>rise  of  the  oidookers.  The 
|)alient  himself,  on  re^Mininj:,^  consciousness,  required  the 
ri'peated  assurances  of  his  compatriots  to  pci-suade  liim 
that  the  knife  had  actually  i)een  used. 

A  lew  days  latci.  a  wealthy  landowner  ai»ph(il  in  iiic 
for  surj^'ical  assistance  of  a  more  diHicult  sort,  lb'  hail 
been  carried  two  marches  to  see  me.  but  as  I  had  not  tlu' 
proper  instruments.  1  was  doubtful  ol  ni\  abilil\  to  beiielil 
him.  and  <leclined  to  (jjierate.  Jhit  the  poor  man  looked 
so  disa})[)ointed  and  so  firndy  refused  to  <,'o  till  sometbiiij^ 
had  been  done,  that  1  was  induced  to  assent.  Not  with- 
standing' my  fears,  the  oj)eration  |)roved  successful,  and. 
not  Ion;,'  afterwards,  I  was  told  that  the  patient,  who  for 
si.\  years  hail  been  unaitle  to  sit  on  horseback,  had  I'esunied 
his  habit  of  ridin;,^ 

Khotan    and    its    nei^ddjouih 1.   tliou^^h    possessed    of 

no  lar^e  manufacturing'  establishments,  have  ini[)ortant 
cottafje  industries.  These  comprise  carpet-weaving',  silk- 
weavin^',  the  making'  of  felt  ru^s,  and  the  cuttnif,'  and 
polishing'  of  jade.  For  jade,  the  town  is  a  well-known 
nuirket,  and  I  was  desirous  of  })uicliasin^'  some  ^'ood 
specimens.  Jade  of  the  l)est  (piality  is  very  rare  and  can 
l)e  oi)tained  (»nly  in  small  pieces,  such  as  are  suitable  for 
ring's.  I  went  round  the  (U'alers  and  woikeis,  and  none 
of  them  Would  even  think  of  accepting'  a  commission  from 


C/f.lK.l.  15; 

inc  to  procure  lar^'c  sfxciiiicn^.  'I'lir  iiiMiiiiiMc  rr[>ly  \v;is. 
"  If  you  \i,cX  tlio  stones,  \vc  will  iiit  iuid  polish  tliciii 
accordinr,'  to  any  model  yon  may  show  ns.  hut  we  raiinot 
gfet  stones  hoth  lar<,'e  and  ^^ood." 

<  >ii  May  Isth  we  set  out  from  Khotaii  towards  I'oju, 
where  we  knew  the  climate  was  cooler  and  the  surround- 
ing's more  ])leasant.  At  the  lon^^  stra^'j^din^'  oasis  ot 
Chaka  I  remained  for  ten  days.  This  oasis  is  (dose  to 
the  Tekelik  Ta^di  ranf(e,  which,  ihou^di  not  in  itself  of 
^'reat  importance,  contains  two  ]>eaks  whose  positions 
have  heen  carefully  determined  hy  the  (ireat  Tri«,'ono- 
metrica^  Survey  of  India.  I  hoped,  therefore,  to  (»htain 
th«'  lon<,Mtude  of  Chaka  hy  lrian<.,Mdation.  hut  the  season 
of  tlnck  haze  hail  set  in.  and.  foi-  the  [ii'esent.  the  attempt 
had  to  he  aliandoned.  ( )ii  May  •{  1  st.  the  morning  when 
1  left  the  Chaka  oasis,  thei'e  were  two  hours  of  clear 
atmos[)here.  and  1  had  an  excellent  view  of  the  ^M"eat 
Kw'en  fjun  inoimtains.  still  co\ei-ed  with  snow  at  the 
hi<,dier  altitudes. 

In  this  re<^ion  lOuropian  visitors  were  very  rare,  and  as 
I  proceeded  from  villai,'e  to  villa<;e  news  of  my  ap|>roacli 
went  hefore  me.  i^e^s  and  \\y/.  Hashis  desired  to  welcome 
me,  and  so  ofttwi  were  their  demonstrations  repeated, 
with  I'scorts  an<l  other  display,  that  such  performances 
became  iiitolerahly  wearisome,  whiU>  the  coloured  e«:fiis. 
hread.  and  sweetmeats  which  I  icceived  hy  the  wayside 
proved  costly,  as  they  had  to  he  acknowledged  hy  presents 
of  nmch  e|-,.jiter  \  ahie.  All  hut  the  xcry  poorest  inhahi- 
tants  of  Sin-Chian;,'  were  accustomed  to  ride,  and  a  >«ahih 
who  wished  to  he  icspected  anion^'  them  rerpnred  to  he 
Well  moimted,  and  attended  h\  a  lunnei'ous  retinue.  In 
short,  com[diance  with  the  usages  (»f  the  country  hecanie 
imendurahle.  and  I  soueht  means  of  escaping,'  unwelcome 
attention.  In  the  hot  weather  1  set  out  eaily  m  the 
moruin^j.  alone  and  on   h)ot.  so   that    mv  dax"'-   march  was 


i;s    /.\"  rnu-.T  Axn  ciiim:si-.   rri<KEsr.\\. 

;U'i-(iiiiplislii'(l  hut'ori'  iiiKiii.  Hi'liiiul  iiic  caiiu-  Aluliil 
Kiiriiii  with  luy  lidini^  pony,  of  which  I  mtulc  use  only 
wlien  tlie  day  was  very  hot.  One  nioniin<i;,  just  as  1  had 
overtaken  Ipay  with  the  camels,  an  excited  Yuz  l^ashi 
galloped  up  to  him  and  inquired  for  news  about  me. 
The  camel  man  pointed  m(>  out  to  liim,  as  I  stepped 
along  in  the  cool  morning  air.  hareheaded.  clad  in  an 
ancient  and  patched  khaki  suit  and  grey  llaniicl  shirt, 
without  anv  attendant  ;  and  the  Yuz  Bashi,  surprised  and 
incredulous,  thinking  he  was  being  imposed  on  by  my 
people,  created  much  amusement  by  his  perplexity. 

The  inhabitants  of  this  region  (as,  indeed,  of  most 
others  that  I  visited)  welcome  British  travellers,  and, 
when  not  forbidden,  are  willing  to  assist  them.  In  Sai 
Bagh  one  of  the  most  important  residents  insisted  on  my 
partaking  of  tea  and  sweets  at  his  house.  A  little  further 
on  a  rich  and  influential  mullah  had  prepared  for  me  a 
substantial  breakfast,  which,  though  I  had  but  recently 
had  a  hearty  meal,  I  found  it  impossible  to  escape. 
When  I  pleaded  my  utter  inability  to  avail  myself  of  the 
proffered  hospitality,  my  host  seized  the  bridle  of  my 
pony  on  one  side  while  his  friends  took  hold  of  it  on  the 
other,  so  that  I  was  constrained  to  dismount  and  eat  of 
the  leaked  mutton  and  bread  prepared  for  me  and  my 
men.  The  repast  was  spread  in  great  simplicity.  Seated 
on  the  ground  under  the  shade  of  some  large  trees  we 
were  provided  with  l^read,  large,  round,  and  thin,  to  serve 
for  plates  on  which  the  viands  were  laid.  While  the 
other  guests,  in  i)rimitive  fashion,  tore  the  meat  from  the 
bones  with  their  teeth,  I  was  able  to  facilitate  matters  l)y 
using  a  knife,  which  was  my  constant  companion. 

The  last  day's  march  to  Polu  was  long  and  fatiguing, 
as  it  included  an  ascent  of  more  than  8,000  feet  from 
Imam  La  to  the  high  plateau  above  the  village.  This 
plateau,  consistin^^  in  fact.  (A  a  l<»n<,^  ])road.  and  gently 


roi.r. 


159 


sloping'  ritlf,'*-',  runnings  rouj^'lily  spoukiii}^,  diu-  north  rn»iii 
the  Kwcn  Lim  raii«,a',  is  used  as  a  «,a-a/iM^'  ^a-oiiiid  ho- 
hir^'f  mimhcrs  of  brood  mares  and  their  foals,  and  for 
flocks  of  sheep.  Here  th(>  sc-enerv  provided  a  di'li^dilfiil 
chanf,^e  from  that  tlnou^di  which  we  had  passed  since 
leavin^^  Yarkand,  ami  the  lon^^  stretch  of  f,'reen  ridfje, 
with  the  majestic  Kwen  Ijim  ran<,a'  risiiif^r  ahruptly  before 
us,  gladd(Mled  the  he;iit.      Almost  due   east  of   Poiu  ;i    tine 


(iKNKIlM,    VIKW    OK    I'Ol.r. 


<loul)lf  peak.  -JLcS.')!)  feet  in  height,  which  1  wron;,dv 
assumed  to  he  Anshc  Ta^di.  stood  boldly  out,  formiufj;  a 
prominent  iaii(liii;irk  when  imt  hidden  by  the  prevalent 
haze.  * 

b'roni    the  crest   of  the   riil^e  we   had   to  descend   more 

llepciitrd  nttcinpts  to  itU-ntif.v  An«ho  Tiifjh  fnilo<l.  Tliis  jjiiino  is 
<iuite  unknown  to  tin-  nutivcs  of  rolu  and  luljiioont  villuf^os.  who  cull 
the  Kwen  Liui  mngi'  "  Snow  >foinituins."  und  sonio  of  tlic  principiil 
peaks  "  Cliiikiil"  or  '•  White  Moinitiiin-;." 


M'-      /\      I  1111:1     .\.\n    i  l!l.\l:SI:      I  T  K  K  I:  S  I  A  .\ . 

than  "J. 0(10  left,  the  hitter  part  of  the  deseetii  hciiiL;  veiv 
steep  and  over  deep  sand.  At  tht'  hottoni  ol'  tlie  vaUev 
Hows  the  Kurah  I\iver.  on  I'ordin;,^  which  we  found  our- 
selves at  I'ohi.  Tlie  viUai^e  is  small  hul  eonipaet, 
situated  on  a  rid«,'e  a  little  above  the  confluence  of  the 
Kurab  and  Terelik  Kivers,  and  about  two  miles  south  of 
the  point  where  the  united  stream  flows  into  the  Kiria 
Hivei-.  A  comfortable  house,  belongin<^  to  a  rich  man. 
was  vacated  for  me,  and  every  civility  and  assistance  was 
protl'ered,  Init.  nevertheless,  symptoms  of  coming  trouble 
soon  a])[)eared.  An  ol'licial.  deputed  by  the  Chow-Kuan  of 
Kiria.  and  attended  i)y  a  Mohammedan  interpreter,  caiiii' 
to  the  villa.t,'e  and  professed  himself  desirous  of  helpin^^ 
nir.  I  had  been  expectintf  men  fnnii  Leli  with  ba^jfjafje- 
sheep.  coi'n,  money,  and  sundry  other  articles,  and.  bciiiL; 
doubtful  whethei-  t]i(\v  would  be  able  to  find  their  way 
unaided  across  tin-  mountains,  1  had  despatched  a  man 
well  ac.piainted  with  the  route  to  look  out  for  them. 
Soon  after  my  arrival  at  Polu  this  man  returned  without 
haviufj  seen  the  Ladakis,  but  bavinf,'.  in  accordance  with 
instructions  fi-om  me,  "  cached  "  food  for  them  at  riu^di 
Kul.  After  this,  the  Chow-Kuan's  envoy,  thouf:rh  in  my 
j)resence  he  <,^ave  utterance  merely  to  soft  nothinjzs, 
threatened  the  natives  with  dreadful  punishment  if  any 
assistance  should  be  }.,nven  me  in  travelling'  by  Carey's 
route  to  I^adak,  here  known  as  Tibet. 

Chinese  ojiposition  works.  j)y  preference,  uiideriiand. 
and  for  a  time  tbiufjs  went  on  smoothly.  Tn  the  morn- 
ing's many  villa<,'ers  visited  me,  some  desirous  of  medicine, 
others  anxious  to  be  relieved  of  troublesome  teetli.  The 
extraction  of  teeth,  1  was  told,  was  usually  performed  by 
the  villa;,'e  fai-rier.  who.  while  the  patient  was  held  by  two 
or  three  men,  ap))lied  his  huf,'e  pincers  and  pulled  out  not 
merely  the  one  offending'  or;^'aii.  but  often  some  inoffensive 
teeth    besides.     TIk-    small   si/.c  ol'    my   forcej)s,    and    the 


Nncor/.iTfoxs  wrrii  c/f/xnsn.      i^.i 

ra])idity  \silli  wliicli  my  patients  were  relioved,  ensured 
iiic  a  lar^'e  dental  practice.  On  some  days  it  was  dilVicuIt 
lo  ^'o  out  ol'  doors  witliout  Ix'in^j  waylaid  hy  suiTt  reis  or 
applicants  Cor  medicine.  One  nioinin;^.  alter  li:ivini,' 
attended  to  many  i)atients.  I  tliou^iil  I  mi^dit  venture  I'ortli 
lor  a  walk,  l)Ut  at  the  door  1  was  met  hy  the  \\\  l-5ashi 
holdin<,'  a  man,  who  extended  his  arm  towards  me  and 
muttered  "  Issok,  issok  "  (hot.  hot).  Accordinj,'  to  native 
notions  diseases  were  either  "  hot  "  or  "  cold.  "  and  it  was 
the  duty  ot  the  medicine  man  to  det<'rniine  which  descrip- 
tion applied  to  the  case  on  hand.  1  felt  the  man's  pulse 
and  found  it  normal;  his  ton^nie  was  of  the  proi)er  hue, 
and  his  temperature  was  not  hi^di  ;  still  he  kept  re])eatini; 
the  word  '■  Issok,  issok,"  with  which  I  ihcuiuhl  myself 
himiliar.  I  re-entei'ed  my  room  and  hrou^dit  out  a  ho.\  of 
pills,  which  I  knew  i-ould  do  no  harm.  The  man  had  a 
look  of  surprise  as  \  proceeded  to  adminislei-  the  dru^^  hut 
just  then  Kaju  approached,  and,  after  a  little  (piestioninj,', 
informed  me  that  the  apjilicant  liad  said,  not  "Issok" 
(hot)  hut  "  Issuk  ■'  (donkey),  askinf,'  payment  for  the  hire 
of  his  donkey  the  previous  day. 

In  the  hoi)e  of  ol)tainin;,f  ^^uides  and  other  assistance 
for  a  journey  towartls  liadak  to  meet  tlu»  ovenhie  men, 
I  entered  into  ncfrotiations  with  the  Chow  Kuan  ot  Kiria, 
an<l,  while  these  wei'e  pending,  pitched  my  cami>  on  the 
hi^di  plateau  I  had  already  crossed.  The  })lace  was 
exposed,  waterless,  and  destitute  of  fuel,  hut  its  position 
was  suitahle  for  the  purpose  of  measuring'  a  hase-line  and 
detenninin^'  the  hei^dit  of  the  principal  adjacent  peaks, 
including'  the  douhle  peak  aln-ady  nu'iitioiud.  Purinj,' 
the  first  day  I  had  clear  weather,  hut  afterwards  a  <lense 
haze  overspread  the  country,  so  that  even  the  nc^ar  foot- 
hills wi'ri'  ohscured,  and  surveying'  hecame  imjtossihh'. 
Vov  ten  days  1  waited  m  that  cheei-les>  place.  hopiuL;  tliat 
the   veil  woulil  rise  :   and   the   tedium   hecame  intohrahle. 


iro    /.v  Tir.irr  .\.\n  cniMisr.    rrRKr.sr.w. 

1  was  l)i'iit  nil  wiuk  wliK'li  ciiiild  iiol  l)c  (loiic,  and  lucre 
aiimst'iiieiit  or  lla  Uilliii^  nl'  tlic  tiiiu'  seciiu'd  "  Hat  and 
luipnititablt'."  My  litci-aiv  stoics  \sv\v  of  tlic  scantiest, 
and  had  tliey  hceii  aimndant  I  could  imi  have  enjoyed 
theiM.  l''oi'  a  day  or  two  my  do^f  "  Zand)ok  '  diverted 
hiniseh'  and  lui'  with  his  vain  pursuit  ol'  marmots.  'I'hen 
1  I'ntered  on  the  search  for  l)otanical  S])ecimens,  hut  lh(  ic 
was  httle  seope  hu-  the  ^ratiticatinii  of  this  taste,  and  I 
(hscovered  that  the  most  satisfactoi'y  method  of  rehevin^' 
the  m(»notony  of  existence  was  to  slee]i.  Continuous 
sleep  l)ein«;  impossible,  my  waking'  thouj.,dits  turned  home- 
wards, and,  to  my  sorrow.  I  fmind  thai  nicinorics  and 
longin^^s  whicdi.  when  one  is  acti\cly  ciii|i|iiycd,  only  eive 
rise  to  healthy  hnpctiilness.  may  Ixcdinc  oppressive  and 
painful  when  the  mind  lias  no  other  resource.  Occupa- 
tion, however,  was  provided  for  me  by  th(>  illness  which 
overtook  Utam  Sin^di.  The  fever  with  which  this  ti'usty 
Hindu  had  been  attacked  at  ^'aikand  ke})l  him  weak,  and 
when  1  had  removed  my  quarters  from  I'oiu  villa^'e  to 
Camp  78  on  the  hi<,di  plateau,  1  had  brou^dit  him  with 
me  in  the  hojx'  tliat  rest  and  the  hracinf,'  mountain 
air  would  hasten  his  recovery.  Unh)rtunately  his  lu'alth 
became  worse,  and  1  was  in  trreat  perplexity  as  t(j  the 
malady  from  which  he  suflered.  His  temperature  rose, 
his  mouth  became  so  swollen  that  only  the  tip  of  his 
tonf,Mie  could  be  seen,  and  his  voice  was  almost  inaudible, 
l^y  puttinj^f  my  ear  close  to  his  lips  I  could  distinf,niish 
articulate  sounds,  hut  tlieii-  nieaninf;  T  could  not  make 
out.  The  most  distressin«.,f  feature  in  his  case  was  the 
unbearable  stench  which  proceeded  from  his  body,  and 
which  made  me  fear  that  he  was  sufU'erinr;  from  some 
conta^Mous  or  infectious  disease.  I  liad  his  tent  pitched 
some  hundreds  of  yards  from  the  camp  on  a  breezy  spot, 
and  there  the  poor  fellow  lay  in  solitude.  lie  and  Chang- 
fimchuk  had  always  been  <,'ood   friends,  and   Jiow  tlie  one 


//./..\7-:SS    (V-    A     TATS'/)'    IIIXDl 


ir,3 


f()iii|);mi«)ii  wiis  iioi  iiiiw  illin^f  to  iiiiiiislii-  in  llic  cninroit 
of  tiu'  other,  but  he  was  directed  never  to  remain  lontjer 
in  the  sick  man's  tent  than  was  necessary.  J)ass,  the 
cook,  ol)tained  milk  ami  |ir(^pared  son])  for  him,  and 
poiufd    these    supplies    into    the    sick    mans  cup  at    the 


A    CASK    OK    Kl.nif  VVTHsI- 


houndarv  lini-  l)cyond  which  i,..  .-in  wasallowed  to  step 
except  Chanj^dilnchuk.  Tsually  I  paid  him  a  visit  three 
or  four  times  a  day  to  ohserve  his  temperatm-e,  to  ascer- 
tain his  wants,  an<l  to  administer  medicine.  No  (hu^'s 
whii'h  I  ^'ave  him  seem«'d  to  do  any  ;,'ood.  and  mv  I'tYorts 
to  dia^nos(>  his  case  were  fruitless.     Ilowevt-r.  he  l)ej;an 


ir,4    /.\'  TinRT  Axn  ciuxf.sf.   rrRKF.sT.w. 

to  lucml,  and  ^lailually  hfcanic  so  iiuicli  lictlcr  lliat  1 
resolved  to  have  him  i-ciuovcd  to  Varkand.  1  travelled 
with  him  to  Kiria,  the  patient  hciiii;  carried  most  of  the 
way  on  an  improvised  litter.  I'roni  Kiria  he  was  ahle  to 
proceed  hy  easy  stages  hy  night  in  (liaise  of  1  pay.  the 
eamelman,  and  on  reat-hin^'  Yarkand  was  received  hy  Dr. 
Josef  Messrur.  the  Persian  missionary,  who  looked  after 
him  till  my  return  in  Octoher. 

Meanwhile  my  negotiations  with  the  C'how-Kuaii  made 
little  progress.  It  was  quite  clearly  understood  that  i 
had  no  intention  of  going  to  Ladak,  but  only  wished  to 
proceed  as  far  as  Aksai  Chin  and  return  to  Polu  within 
two  months.  Ho  told  me  repeatedly  that  the  t(M-i-itory 
through  which  1  wished  to  travel  w'as  Chinese  and  w  ilhin 
his  jurisdiction,  yet  1  could  get  no  satisfactory  or  even 
definit(>  re])ly.  Xo  Chinese  ollicial  with  whom  I  ever  had 
dealings  could  he  induced  to  transact  business  in  a  reason- 
able way.  If  opposed  to  my  advance,  as  a  Chinese  (iriieial 
might  be  assumed  to  be,  he  would  talk  a])Out  the  dangers 
of  the  journey  and  the  terrible  hardships  former  travellers 
had  had  to  endure,  but  he  would  not  say  "You  must  not 
go."  Being  resolved  to  bring  the  negotiations  to  a  dis- 
tinct issue,  I  decided  to  pay  a  visit  to  the  chief  obstruc- 
tionist at  Kiria,  and,  presenting  myself  at  the  Yamen, 
was  admitted  to  his  presence.  He  had  a  very  haggard, 
effeminate  appearance,  suggestive  of  the  habitual  use  of 
opium,  and  he  was  evidently  in  bad  health.  My  first 
visit  was  ineffectual,  but  wlun  I  enlled  a  second  time 
some  progress  was  made.  He  said  he  would  not  assist 
me  or  my  people  to  go  to  Aksai  Chin  by  way  of  Polu,  but 
he  undertook  to  send  men  and  supplies  from  Polu  to  meet 
the  expected  Ladakis.  I  promised  that  I  would  return  to 
Polu  in  two  months,  and  said  that  I  now  required  only 
an  order  to  the  Beg  of  Polu  authorising  him  to  allow  the 
villagers  to  assist  me  with  guides  iiiid  transport.     This  he 


XI GUT  MARCH.  K^S 

refused,  l;iit  he  agreed  to  sanction  my  travelliu^^  by  Sorgak 
to  Kara  Sai,  and  ol^taining  the  necessary  assistance. 

J^efore  my  departure  from  Kiria  on  June  *27tli,  1  had 
occasion  to  send  a  messa^'e  to  the  Chow-Kuan,  and  he 
took  that  opportunity  to  request  me  to  survey  the  frontier 
between  Sin-Chiang'  and  Tibet — areurately,  but  on  no 
acc(Hmt  to  place  it  too  far  soutli.  Tliis  request  made  it 
jihiin  that  he  was  quite  aware  of  my  intention  to  continue 
the  survey  operations,  which,  in  tact.  I  never  concealed 
from  the  Chinese  or  any  others. 

The  season  was  now  well  advanced,  and  tlir  tlici- 
mometer  iiuheated  a  temperature  of  96°  K.  in  the  shade  at 
two  o'clock  in  th(^  afternoon,  the  difference  between  the 
wet  and  dry  luilb  temperatures  Ijein^,'  about  30°.  To 
avoid  the  scorching  heat  and  incveiit  iifcdlcss  (hstivss  to 
men  and  animals.  1  resolved  to  travel  in'  night  ;  but  this 
arrangement  was  displeasing  to  l\aju,  who.  pretending  not 
to  have  understood  the  order,  was  not  ready  to  start  at 
the  proj>er  horn*  in  the  evening.  On  the  second  day  he 
foUcAved  a  similar  method  but  without  the  pretence  of 
mistake,  asserting  that  it  was  impossible  to  march  at 
night,  but  that  the  desert  journey  of  thirty  miles  to 
Sorgak  could  easily  be  accomplislu'd  in  the  daytime.  1 
^•ave  him  the  recpiisite  orders  as  to  feeding  thr  animals 
and  the  sii[)plies  to  i)e  earned  for  the  might's  ma rih.  Alter 
imich  protestation  and  display  of  bad  tt'm[)er.  he  began 
the  preparation,  and  soon  after  si.\  o'clock  in  tlu*  evening 
we  set  out.  In  about  four  hours  we  rt'acla'd  the  low  hills 
of  loess  and  sand,  called  Awras,  whither  water  foi-  the 
nun  had  been  sent  on  doid^eys.  Ws  the  time  wi-  had 
refreshed  ourselves  and  wt  re  ready  to  rt'sume  the  marcli 
it  was  too  dark  to  see  the  footprints  on  tlie  sand,  vagui  ly 
described  as  a  road,  and  our  halt  had  to  be  prolonged." 

The  won!  "rojul"  iiuiiii.s  uiiv  [lalli.  It  iinu  W  appliftl.  on  llic 
Olio  hand,  to  the  track  of  an  expert  mountaineer,  or,  on  the  other,  to 
a  wide  cart-road. 


i66    /.v  Tir.iiT  Axn  ciiiMisii  rrRKi-.sr.w. 

As  tln'  iii^'ht  was  chilly  I  w  iiiiijud  iiiysi'll  in  n  thin, 
wi'll-win'ii  mininah  Knt  nif  liy  ^aw  dI'  the  <l()iikt'y-inin, 
ami,  c'iirhn«j;  iiiyst'lf  up  on  thi-  sand,  with  my  arm  for  a 
pillow,  was  soon  aslrcp. 

Alxiiit  three  o'cloek  in  the  mornin;,^  we  rcsuniiil  our 
inarc-h,  and  travi-liod  throu^di  a  country  hare  and  watcrli'ss 
almost  as  far  as  Sor^Mk.  About  a  mill'  from  this  vilhifie 
water  was  found,  hut  the  rt-^Mon  was  still  devoid  of 
ve«,'etation.  The  villa<,'ers  oani  a  livelihood  hy  di<.(^in^' 
for  ^'old.  hut,  from  tlie  poverty-stricken  look  of  the  place, 
it  was  clear  that  <];old  was  scarce  in  the  iiei}j[hhourhood. 
The  villa^^e  houses  were  niiseral)le  liovels,  usually  mere 
excavations  with  roofs  almost  flush  with  the  ground. 
Sup[)lies  lor  the  villagers  had  to  he  brought  from  the 
village  of  Talkolok,  about  twelve  mile.s  distant,  or  even  (if 
tloiu'  was  re(]uiredi  from  Xia.  about  forty  miles  distant. 

In  the  march  which  ended  here  we  had  covered  (piite 
forty  mill's  (we  had  been  told  that  the  distance  was  thirty 
miles),  but  the  chopped  straw,  di\'  lucerne,  and  corn 
which  the  Jk'g  of  the  village  had  collected  for  us  and  with 
which  he  met  ns  as  we  approached,  enabled  me  to  give 
tlie  animals  a  well-earned  rest.  Next  day  the  aii-,  cooled 
with  rain,  became  clear,  and  in  the  evening  we  had  an 
I'Xcellent  view  of  the  distant  villages  on  the  plains.  The 
h'W  oases,  of  which  Nia  was  by  far  the  largest,  with  their 
bright  green  fields  and  abundant  trees  in  foliage,  [)resented 
a  njarked  contrast  to  the  surrounding  country  which  con- 
sisted of  nothing;  Imt  ;i  dreary  desert  of  sand  and  loess. 
The  eye,  however,  could  not  but  rest  with  pleasure  on  the 
majestic  Kwen  Lun  mountains,  now  not  far  distant,  to 
the  south.  Here  1  witnessed  a  gorgeous  sunset,  during 
which  the  westeiii  horizon,  almost  from  north  to  south, 
was  lit  up  with  rosy  red,  while,  over  the  sun,  an  extra- 
ordinary effect  was  produced.  A  b;iii(l  of  reddish  yellow, 
with   a    breadth   of    altout   one   and    half   times  the  sun's 


/'( .\/.s //.]//:. v/  ('/-'  ariniis.  167 

a[)parfiil    (liaiiu-lfr.    and  an   altitiulf  of    ;iI)miiI    1")",   burst 
into  virw,  and  al'tiT  a  hricf  display  suddcidy  vanished. 

Continuing,'  the  journey  eastwards  from  Sor^'ak,  we 
entered  scrubhy  eountry  with  line  and  there  a  small 
village,  the  houses  of  which  had  sloping  roofs.  When 
we  were  about  two  nuirehes  from  Kara  Sai  the  men  from 
Kiria,  who  attended  to  the  hired  transport,  became 
troublesome.  They  had  alr(a<ly  unreasonably  petitioned 
to  be  allowed  to  return,  and  now  they  became  openly 
mutinous.  In  sucli  circumstances  the  only  safe  course 
is  to  recjuire  inijijicit  obedience  and.  if  persuasion  cannot 
secure  it,  tiien  to  compel  it  by  force.  1  was  not  ignorant 
of  what  had  been  going  on  amongst  the  men,  and  when 
my  orders  to  load  the  aninuils  met  with  a  refusal,  I  was 
prepared  to  act.  Abdul  K'nrim.  in  accordance  with  my 
instructions,  seized  one  of  Lhe  ringleaders  and  held  him 
prisoner  while  I  walked  up  to  the  olhtr  and.  with  my  left 
fist,  delivered  a  firm  blow  straight  from  the  shoulder. 
Till'  man  staggered  and  was  about  to  fall,  l>ut  1  kept  him 
upiight  by  a  second  blow  which  was  speedily  followed  by 
a  third.  The  second  and  third  blows,  tlionL;li  not  ad- 
nnnistered  in  the  way  of  punishment,  but  rather  for 
assistance  and  sujiport  to  the  crestfallen  delini|uent, 
evidently  convinced  him  that  more  wduIiI  toljuw  if 
retpiired.  W  bile  he-  stood  da/ed  and  terrified,  the  whole 
of  his  c()m[)anions  fled,  save  only  the  man  whom  .Vbdiil 
Karim  had  si-cured.  The  proceedings  now  i)ecame  farcii-al, 
for  it  was  evident  no  danger  woidd  arise  from  the  Kiria 
men  ;  but  it  was  necessary  that  the  i-onu'dy  should  reaidi 
a  proper  conclusion.  I  sent  for  a  stirrup  leather  which 
was  hanging  from  a  saddle  at  some  little  distance,  and  for 
some  ghee  (butter  often  rancid)  to  oil  it,  and.  advancing  to 
Abdul's  ])risoner,  I  explained  the  nature  of  the  operation 
to  which  he  was  aiiout  to  be  subjected.  The  man  became 
abjectly    [trmteut    and    protested    that    he   would    L^ive   no 


i68    /.\'  I iiu-/r  A.\n  ciiixiisii  ickkhs r.w. 

nioiv  tioiiMr.  I)iil  I  lel'iisfd  to  listt'ii  Id  liis  confessi(»ns  or 
iiccL'pt  his  assunmcos.  At  lc'n<,ali,  howiver,  ]\;iju,  aclin^^ 
km\  instructions,  cjinic  forward  ami  [icrfofnu'd  the  part  of 
intercessor.  Thou^di  he  begt,^ed  liard,  it  apjiarently  took 
some  httle  time  to  inchne  me  to  mercy  :  Iml  wIk  ii  I  had 
been  assured  that  all  the  Kiria  men  would  return  to  their 
dutv,  1  accepted  their  unreserved  submission  and  released 
the  prisoner.      It  was  surprisinj.,^  how  soon  the  disturbance 


Kiijii.  curuvaii  Ijuslii.  Cliaugfuuchuk. 

TYl'K.S    OK    I.ADAKI    C.MIAVAN    JllOX.. 


was  at  an  end.  'riiirc  were  eif,dit  or  nine  men  wlio  had 
plotted  to<:ether,  and  there  was  n(j  nian  but  Abdul  to 
whom  I  could  look  for  help.  I  had  no  weapcni ;  my 
revolver  was  in  m}'  beddin<,'  ;  my  rifle  was  on  my  saddle 
at  some  distance.  Had  the  men  l^een  resolute,  I  should 
have  been  at  their  mercy  ;  l)ut  within  a  very  short  time 
the  bagf^afje  was  loaded  up,  the  caravan  en  route,  and 
disobedience  on   i\\v  part  of  these  men  quelled  for  ever. 


A'. /A'./    S.I/. 


169 


Tliciici'lortli  till'  tioiilih'soiiic  iiK'iiihcr  of  my  cniupjuiy 
was  Kaju,  wlio  luul  hecijine  lazy.  He  shirked  his  \V(jik, 
neglected  the  necessary  inspection  of  the  animals  after 
our  marches  until  remonstrated  with,  and  when  we 
reached  Kara  Sai  he  became  no  better  than  an  agitator 
and  a  creator  of  discontent.  Of  this,  however.  1  pretended 
to  know  nothing. 

Kara  Sai  (Black  Water),  so  far  as  architectural  fonuii- 


r 


-« 

<!i-< 


i 


M\     Miohi:    Al     hAKA    nAI. 


tioii  is  concerned,  consists  of  a  few  small  caves,  hollowed 
out  of  the  loess  which  forms  the  eastern  l)ank  of  a  tiny 
stream  at  the  place  where  it  leaves  the  hills.  ("lose  by 
are  one  or  two  patches  of  siimtcd  barley  :  not  far  off  there 
is  good  gra/.iug  for  camels,  and  on  the  hills  abundance 
of  vegetation  for  (locks  of  sheep  and  goats,  which,  at 
night,  ar(>  regularly  tied  up  in  the  narrow  ])arts  of  the 
valley  beside  springs  of  excellent  water.     The  best  cave  in 


i;o     A\'    I'llUiT  AXn    Cf/lXIuSr:    TL'Rk'IiS'J.W. 

tho  village  was  cleared  out  lor  me  and  served  l'i>r  my 
abode.  It  was  not  roomy  ;  its  entranec  (as  the  ])li()to- 
ijrapli  shows)  was  h)W  and  narrow  :  if  om-  toiichfd  the 
walls  or  roof  a  shower  of  loess  fell,  but  the  dwellni;^^  had 
tin-  advantage  of  bcin^-  pleasantly  eool.  The  iK-admcn  of 
tiu'  village  consulted  together,  and  agreed  to  supply  me 
with  fresh  transport  as  far  as  Yepal  Ungur  on  the  Kiria 
river.  This  arrangement  was  satisfactory  to  all  concerned, 
but  chiefly  to  the^Kiria  men,  who  were  now  paid  off  and  at 
liberty  to  return  houir.  Thinking  that  possibly  some  of 
these  men  had  been  im[)ressed,  and  believing  that  only 
two  of  them  had  been  to  blame  for  the  trouble  which  had 
arisen,  I  gave  some  backsheesh  to  all  bul  tlic  two  I'iiig- 
leaders,  whose  surprise  and  disa})[)oinlmi'nt  were  depicted 
on  their  faces  when  they  found  that  they  were  deliberately 
passed  over. 


ciiAi'Ti:!;  XI 

Departuir  for  Tilict— Cliiiirsc  post— Tolaii  Klioja  \;ill<v -Second 
jounicv  to  Tibi't  -Atish  Tass— Slior  Kul— Digging  for  water — 
Tlie  Kiria  River —Ycpal  I'ligur — JJad  weather— Reconnoitring — 
Uaju  leaves  for  I'olu  -  Journey  to  Aksn  Jjegiiniing  triangulation 
— Return  to  Ycpal  L'ngur— Departure  of  Kara  Sai  men— Fine 
snow  range — Cloing  cast  again— Reconnoitrers  useless — Bad 
health  No  feasible  route  — Yepal  Ungur  once  more  —Fording 
Kiria  River — Ruin  at  IJaba  Hatun — Sources  of  Kiria  River — 
Nunjerous  glaciers — Journey  to  Yeshil  Kul — Return  to  "  Fever 
Camp  " — Connecting  witli  1890  work. 

T  )  V  .Inly  '.Hli  till'  j»ii»iiiiNf(l  Ininsport  had  been  provided, 
'  and  ne.xt  uioriiin^'  we  set  out  from  Kara  Sai.  The 
caravan  consisted  of  1.")  [loiiicN  (JO  lor  ha^^a^^'  and  •')  for 
lidin;^!,  and  lOdonkcvs,  besides  7  liircd  ponies  and  iJ  hind 
donkeys.  In  ad<lition  we  had  >S  donkeys  to  carry  food  and 
other  stores  for  the  men  who  accompanied  me  from  Kaia 
Sai.  For  the  sake  of  fresli  meat  I  had  ol)tained  and  sent 
on  a  day's  march  in  front,  twenty  slieej^  aiid  for  milk 
two  floats,  but  llie  milk  these  animals  yielded  was 
not  worth  the  tri>ulile  tliey  cost.  I  took  with  me  a  two 
months'  supply  of  ;4rain.  Hour,  ric(\  ^diee,  salt,  tea,  su^ar 
and  spices.  My  purpose  was  to  examine  and  survey  tlie 
country  to  the  west  of  the  spot  where  Kohorovsky  had 
nearly  pi-rished,  and  di'termine  the  lu'i^hts  of  as  many  of 
tlu^  mountain  sunnnits  as  ])ossible.  it  was  most  desiiable 
to    connect    the   trian;;ulation   and   the   topographic   work 


I  7- 


/.\'  riiu-.r  A\n  ciiixi-:si-:  irRKHsr.w. 


iiccDiuplishfd  ill  Tilttl  diuiii^'  tlu'  previDiis  ycjir,  with  the 
work  on  wliifli  I  \\;is  now  fii^'jij^'iMl,  and  to  v\\\\\  the 
trian»,'iil;itioii  across  the  K\\«ii  Liiii  lan^'e  to  Cain))  7;i  mi 
till'  plateau  ahovt"  J'olii.  I  wished  also  to  ascertain 
whether  any  feasihie  route  led  Iroiii  I'olu  towards  Central 
Til)et.  I  had  ol'tcii  heard  that  there  was  su(di  a  mute, 
and  that  it  had  I'orinerly  heen  used  hy  'rii)etans.  but  this 
was  stoutly  diiiifd  hythf  I'olu  people  whoin  1  (juestioned 


l-OADIMi    Tin:    I'ONKKVS. 


on  the  suhje(-t.  Within  the  inciuory  of  the  oldest 
inhabitant  of  I'olu,  noiK-  hut  Ladakis  had  come  across 
the  mountains  to  Polu,  and  of  Ladakis  only  the  few 
who  had  acccMupanied  Carey  and  ])ar,deis]i.  The  people 
of  Kara  Sai  said  that,  tlie  only  route  into  the  mountains 
was  by  the  Tolan  Khoja  valley,  and  they  alleged  that 
they  had  never  seen  any  people  come  that  way.  To  be 
absolutely  certain  that  there  is  no  route  practicable   for 


DEIWRTrRF.    FOR    71  RET.  173 

iiniiiKils  across  tlic  Kutii  I.iiii  niii^'c  between  I'ttlii  and 
the  Tnlaii  Klioja  Kivcr.  (tiic  would  liave  to  examine  every 
valley  in  tliat  strctcli  of  eountry  ;  but  I  tliink  it  lii^dily 
]>n»l)al)Ie  that  no  sneli  route  exists.  I  was  assured  that 
the  Kiria  valley  <ann(it  he  ascended  as  it  is  hlocktd  by 
lofty  elirt's  over  which  the  river  falls.  This  stati'Uient  is 
eontirnied  by  tiie  fact  that  men  si^oxw^i,  from  Polu  to  the 
upper  waters  of  the  Kiria  to  shoot  yak,  invariably  «^o  and 
return  by  the  At  To  Pass  and  Klia  Yak  Day. 

As  tiie  <,'t)i-f,'c  between  Tolan  Khoja  and  Khuyek  was 
said  to  be  inii»racticable  for  a  caravan,  we  went  almost 
due  soiitii  for  a  lew  miles  fi-oiii  Kara  Sai.  ii|»  a  very 
narrow  valley  inhabited  by  shepherds.  C'ro.ssin^'  a  low 
and  easy  jiass,  we  entennl  tlu>  ri'j^ion  drained  by  the 
Tolan  Khoji  Kiver,  where  the  hills  were  comparatively 
low  and  Were  covered  with  ve«i[etation.  We  passed  one 
(»r  two  wretched  hovels  dose  to  the  continence  of  the 
liiila  Khan  and  the  Tolan  Khoja  Itivers,  and  reached 
Khuyek  on  the  left  l)ank,  where,  thoUf.;h  tliere  were  no 
inhabitants  and  little  j,'rass.  we  halted  for  the  ni^dit. 

Next  day  we  marched  up  an  easy  slope,  from  the  toj) 
of  which  we  liad  to  descend  a  rathei"  steep  declivity  to 
Sarok  Tuz  (^'ellow  Salt}  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Tolan 
Khoja,  just  below  its  junction  with  a  river  of  about 
eipial  volume,  the  Tu/lok  Sai  (Salt  Kiven.  and  clo.se  t(»  a 
lar^'e  saline  sjuin^'  who.se  waters  leave  a  white  deposit. 
This  spot  ini;,'iit  possibly  be  of  some  importance,  for  it 
was  said  to  be  the  point  of  separation  of  the  two  routes 
to  r^adak.  The  place  was  very  clieerle.ss  and  without 
inhabitants,  except  three  or  four  nuMi  who  formed  a 
Chinese  post,  established  about  a  month  before.  This 
small  company  was  (piartered  in  a  very  poroii^  tent,  in 
front  of  which  lloated  a  hu^'e  yellow  lla>;.  1  asked  the 
olVicial  in  conmiand  how  it  happened  that  a  post  had 
.been  establisjicd   at   siuli  a  |)lace.  and  was  informed  that 


174    /-^'  rir^ii'i'  .\xn  cuixese  ti'rki-.stax. 

its  sole  purpose  was  to  render  me  assistance  and  provide 
supplies,  none  of  which,  however,  were  forthcoming. 
Doubtless  the  Chow-Kuan's  intention  was  to  have  my 
movements  under  observation,  l)ut  he  wished  also  to 
make  it  plain  that  Sarok  Tuz  was  Chinese,  not  Tibetan, 
territory,  though  the  possession  of  such  a  place  see^ned 
not  worth  asserting.  The  man  in  command  showed  me 
a  paper  on  which  were  two  parallel  row-s  of  thick  zigzag 
lines,  interspersed  with  dots  and  dashes,  and  told  me  that 
this  was  the  map  of  the  country'.  It  seemed  such  a  map 
as  a  couple  of  spiders,  dipped  in  ink  and  then  turned 
loose  on  the  paper,  might  have  drawn. 

Considering  it  possible  that  an  old  and  disused  route 
from  Ladak  joined  that  from  Yepal  Ungur  at  Sarok  Tuz, 
1  thought  it  worth  while  to  devote  a  day  to  reconnoitre. 
The  valley  of  the  Tuzlok  Sai,  in  its  lower  part,  did  not 
present  any  serious  obstacle  to  the  march  of  the  caravan, 
but  after  a  few  miles  it  became  very  narrow.  On  either 
hand  rose  barren  mountains,  those  on  the  right  bank 
being  lofty  and  precipitous,  while  those  on  the  left, 
though  not  so  high,  were  far  too  steep  to  be  climbed  by 
animals.  After  ascending  this  bleak  gorge  for  a])out 
7  miles,  Ivaju  and  I  managed  to  climb  to  a  spot  about 
'200  feet  above  the  valley,  but  we  could  see  only  high 
mountains  pi-esenting  no  foothold  even  for  men,  and 
showing  not  the  slightest  trace  of  vegetatiOiix  We  were 
thus  coin])elled  to  abandon  all  thoughts  of  prot^eeding  in 
that  direction. 

Next  day  we  ascended  the  valley  which,  south'jof  Sarok 
Tuz,  is  called  Sarok  Tuz  valley,  and  north  of  that  point 
the  To] an  Khoja  valley.  We  had  not  gone  f^  when  we 
came  on  a  plentiful  supply  of  grass,  in  the  midst  of  which 
we  encamped  in  order  tluit  our  animals  might  enjoy  a 
good  feed  before  starting  for  the  bare  country  of  Kan 
Sai.       For   the    next    two   marches  the  fodder  consisted 


ATT  SI  I    PASS 


1/5 


only  of  a  little  hooi't/a.  sup})k'iiieiitc(l  witli  cliDiijx'd  sti'aw 
and  an  incivascd  allowance  of  corn.  On  July  l()tli  \ve 
crossed  tlie  Atish  l^ass,  an  easy  one,  KKoOO  feet  liijj^li,  and 
once  more  1  was  in  Tibet.  From  a  hill  a  very  little 
hipfher  than  the  ])iiss  and  close  to  it  we  had  a  com- 
manding view,  but  looking  for  grass  we  could  descry  no 
patcli  of  green,  though  we  could  see  the  depression  in 
which  lies  the  salt  lake,  Shoi-  Kul.     From  east  round  to 


'»^i(ft^■J*•!=^<i.■ 


VIKW  ni-   K\v:;\    i  r\    iivnui-  from  SlTOit   Kii. 


the  south  there  were  low,  rolling  hills,  in  striking  ccm- 
trast  to  the  Kwen  Lun  mountains  to  which  we  were  now 
accustomed.  At  this  point  the  range  bifurcates,  one  spur 
running  north-east  as  far  as  Kara  Sai,  decreasing  in 
height  as  it  proceeds,  wliile  the  other,  of  more  uniform 
elevation,  stretches  eastwards. 

As  we  descended  towards  Shor   K'ul,  whieli  lies   l.ToO 
feet  lower  than  the  pass,  we  encountered  heavy  falls  of 


i;r.    /.\-  riiu-.T  .\\n  nfjxr.sr.    tcnki-st.w. 

snow,  winch,  liowrviT,  ijiiickly  iiu-lti'd.  Nt-xl  iiioniin^' 
tlu>  wt'iitliiT  clciiri'd  iuul.  uftcr  iii:ikiii<,'  observations  foi- 
latitude  and  lon^ituile.  1  tmik  some  j)liol(»;^fra|)lis  of 
mountains  \isil)li'  from  tlu'  eami).  Nearly  all  tlir  prin- 
cipal peaks  of  this  section  of  the  Kweii  Lun  laiij^r  are 
over  -JO, 000  i'cct  liii^li,  the  loftiest  I  measured  hein^^ 
•i(),7C)U  feet,  and  the  lowest  'i(),.S10  feet.  Thou-h  the 
snow  and  glaciers  facintj  south  were  exposed  to  the  duly 
sun,  we  could  only  see  one  tiny  stream  issuing'  from  them. 
With  the  exception  of  this  stream,  and  the  little  water  we 
obtained  l)y  di{,'fTin(r  we  observed  no  water  in  tbis  re<,don. 
There  was  grass  for  a  mile  or  two  round  Camp  *.)0,  but 
elsewhere  the  country  was  absolutely  barii  ii. 

At  Camp  *.)!  our  altitude  was  lower  than  at  At  Tui,  yet 
several  of  the  caravan  men  complained  of  headaches  and 
asked  for  medicine.  My  temperature  was  only  9;V4°,  or 
'.\°  V .  behnv  the  normal,  i)Ut  my  pulse  was  nnich  faster 
than  usual.  This  unpleasantness  soon  passed  off,  but 
1  sutTered  some  inconvenience  from  dithculty  of  breathing 
in  making  any  ascent.  In  this  inliospitable  region  we 
found  only  a  very  little  stunted  boort/.a,  and  had  to  issue 
the  last  couple  of  sacks  of  chopped  straw  tni-  the  animals. 
The  water  we  obtained  by  digging  was  bad  ;  it  hail  tr)  be 
boiled  and  cleared  with  alum  before  it  could  be  used,  and 
there  was  so  little  of  it  that  many  of  the  animals  had  to 
go  waterless. 

As  we  went  eastwards  our  spirits  were  raised  by  the 
disc(n-ery  of  fresh  tracks  of  yak,  betokening  the  neigh- 
l)ourliood  of  water,  and  soon  we  came  on  the  most 
easterly  branch  of  the  Kiria  liiver,  in  which  tlie  baggage 
animals  thoroughly  quenched  their  thirst.  Then  we 
clindK'd  the  long  ascent  to  Kumboyan,  where,  close  to 
the  head  of  the  pass,  we  found  antelope,  abundance  of 
grass,  and,  by  digging,  a  sufticiency  of  water.  Descend- 
ing the  slope  on  the  other  side,  we  crossed  a  tiny  tribu- 


YEIWI.    rXCA'R. 


177 


t:irv  of  lilt  Kiri;i  liivrr  system,  a  mere  brook,  (luite 
shallow  and  less  than  ten  feet  broad.  In  crossing,'  this 
streteh  of  country  we  had  had  to  contend  with  lieavy 
rain  and  sleet,  but  now,  at  Yepal  Un^nn',  we  found  a 
campin«,'-^'rouml  wIhit  souu-  little  shelter  (ungur)  was 
atlorded  by  a  ^lighlly  overhanging  cliff. 

Jvunning  parallel  to  the    Kiria    Ixiver  is  a   niM^iiiticcnt 
raniie  of  snow-clad  mountains,  the  fnu'st  of  wIikIi,  iiimost 


mi;  m.   \  II. \\    m     M  r  \i.   1  ni.i  1;. 


fhic  east  of  \'rpal  I'ngur.  has  three  peaks,  the  highest 
rising  to  an  altitude  of  "J'J.TOO  feet,  uiiile  on  either  side 
there  are  sunnuits  almost  as  lofty.  Tlu'  mountain  lu-ights 
are  bold  iind  majestic.  i'Ut  the  whole  scene  is  desolate  and 
forbiddin;^.  '\\w  feature's  are  bare  rock,  ic(>,  and  snow. 
The  hard,  cold  mountain  shapes  are  not  relieved  by 
a  single  tree,  nor  softened  in  form  or  colour  by  spreading 
vegetati(»n.       .\    few    palehi's    of    ^'rass    heri'    \\\\A    there, 


1  ^ 


i;S     /.V    TinRT  AXn   ClIIXIiSF.    Tl'RKF.STAX 

strui^^'lin;,'  tor  cxisU'iicr,   only   show  \\\v  scvtiity  ol   lln^ 
foiidititnis  to  whicli  tlu'V  arc  suhjcctcd. 

I    ii'iiiaiiu'd   al    Vepal    Un;,'iir    till    tlir    rain    and    sn^w 
should    cfase,    hut    nieantinic    I'resli     tnu-ks    wcic    found 
loading  from  tlic  carcases  of  two  rcci'iitly  killed  yak,  and 
indicating  that  two  men  with  donkeys  were  goinjij  towards 
Tolu.     Havinfj  resolved  to  send  Kajii  to  Polu  to  ohtain 
the   sheep  from  Ladak  with   thi'ir  loads  of  corn,   I    had 
tried  to  induce  some  of  the  Kara  Sai  men  to  act  as  his 
•guides,  l)ut   they  had  declined,  feifijnin^f  ij^norance  of  the 
route.     Their  real   reason  was  prol)ahly   founded   on   tlie 
hostility  which  existed  hetween   tlie  J'olu   and  the    Kara 
Sai    vilhif^H'rs,  who   hotli   claimed    the  ri^dit    to  shoot  yak 
near  Yepal  Unfair,  the  Tolu  men  assertin*;  that  the  ri^dit 
belonged  to  them  exclusively.     Since  none  would  act  as 
guides,  I  sent  Kaju  on  the   track  of  the  two  Polu  yak- 
shooters.     ]5eiore  this,  being  myself  unable  to  travel,  I 
had  sent  out  three  reconnoitring  parties.     Changfunchuk 
and  a  Kara  Sai  man  were  ordered  to  search  the  country 
east  of  Cam])  '.)1    and   soutli   of  Shor    Kul.  for  a  caravan 
route    wJiere    grass    and    water  ccjuld   be    found,    lea(hng 
in  any  direction   between   the  rising  sun  and  the  snow 
mountains  east   (»f    Vepal    Tngur.      Sonam  with   a  com- 
panion was  directed  to  ascend  the  nearest   tributary  of 
the   Kiria   Kiver  for  the  .same  pm-pose.     Upon    both   of 
these  parties,  the  instruction  to  have  the  rising  sun  un 
their  left  when  starting  each  morning  was  emphatically 
impressed,    and  a    lai'ge    reward    was   promised   for   any 
useful    discovery.     The   third    party    consisted    of    Islam 
.\kun,  the  guide  from  Kara  Sai,  and  a  conjpanion,  their 
instructions  l)eing  t<j  ascertain  whether  it  was  po.ssible  to 
descend  tlie  nearest  tributary  of  the  Kiria  Kiver  to  Polu. 
Islam    Akun    was   a  cliicken-hearted  man,   afraid   to    go, 
and  soon  came  back  with  the  information  that  he  did  not 
think  any  one  else  had  ever  gone  that  way. 


r^.in  \vr..\rni:i<  .\\n  ii.\n  uhm/iii.    179 

At  Icii^'tli  Ixitli  the  \V(;itli(i'  and  my  licahli  iiiij)r(»vc(l, 
and  I  was  able  to  continuf  my  joiinu'y.  L(  avinjT  Yepal 
Uii<,'ur,  I  went  towards  the  west,  intending'  to  aj)proaeh 
some  of  the  peaks  fixed  hy  the  Great  Trij^'oiiometrieal 
Survey  of  Iiicha.  At  the  next  ciini))  thi-  ahitiide  was 
found  to  be  only  Jo, *.)()()  fret,  but  the  minimum  ther- 
mometer, on  the  ni;,dit  of  .July  'ioth,  showed  that  the 
temperature  had  fallen  to  l:i"  F.  Notwithstandinf:^  the 
i-old,  we  enjoyed  the  eleai"  dry  air  after  our  loii;^'  ixperi- 
enee  of  fold  weather. 

In  descending'  anollur  tributary  of  llu'  Kuia.  not 
shown  on  any  maj).  we  wasted  a  whole  day.  We  reaehed 
a  wati'rfall  which  was  almost  impassable,  but,  sendin/jf 
Abdul  Karim  forward  to  reconnoitre,  I  set  to  work  to 
construct  a  [tath  with  stones  on  one  side  of  the  i-ataract, 
sidficient  to  enable  the  caravan  to  pass.  \\\  the  time 
this  rt)ad  was  linished  Abdul  came  back  and  reported 
that,  lower  down,  the  valh  y  contracted  to  a  few  yards 
and  a  second  cataract  made  the  descent  impos^ibU-.  lie- 
turnin^f  w\s  the  valley,  we  found  the  proper  route,  and 
erossin<^'  a  lofty  pass  reached  .Vksu.  where  survey  work 
was  delayed  by  bad  Weather,  ami  by  my  own  liad 
liealth. 

IMie  ^'reat  variation  of  temiterature  we  had  itcentiy  ex- 
perienced had  affected  the  rates  of  the  cbrononielers,  and 
1  was  <loubtful  about  my  longitude.  To  secure  trust- 
worthy values,  I  determine<l  to  connnt'nce  trian^ulation 
at  .\ksu.  caiTv  the  work  back  In  Sb<>i-  Kul,  t'onneet  it 
with  that  done  in  lSU(»  at  \'eshil  Kul,  and  tbi-n  endeavour 
to  connect  the  whole  with  the  trian^'ulatinn  imiiiI.  d  mi 
the  hi^di  plateau  ai)()ve  I'olu. 

From  the  hill  stations  near  Aksu  I  obtained  a  siew  »»f 
several  very  promim-nt  peaks  in  the  Kwcn  Lun  ran«ie, 
including'  the  fine  doid)le  ])eak  east  of  Polu.  To  the  east 
t»f  Aksu  was  a  lar^'e   mountain  which   hitl   the  snow -clad 


iSo    rv  Tiiij-r    \\n  iiiiMsi-    rri<i<isr.\x. 

uiiiuntaiii.-,  luai  ^i|tal  I  n^ur,  wlulr  to  tlu-  west  there 
Nvas  ii  Ion;,'  ran^v  with  scarci-ly  a  spot  km  its  vi'stincnt  of 
snow.  In  tins  nuif^'e  the  peaks  were  so  numerous  ami  so 
similar  in  hei^'ht  and  ap[)earance  that,  it  was  exeee(lin;,'ly 
(hiVicuh  to  identify  from  the  seeond  station  those  seen 
linni  the  first.  I  lowcNcr,  I  was  ])artially  yuceessful,  and 
found  one  sunnnil  to  he  Jl.'.Ult  feet  hi^li,  while  three; 
others  were  ovei-  'JI.OOO  fed.  To  ap})reciate  the  difticid- 
ties  with  whieh  1  iiad  to  contend,  it  is  necessary  In  ic- 
niemhfi-  that  liic  country  was  uninhahitrd  and  ahnost 
desert,  wlu-re  we  had  to  hasten  throu;^!!  our  operations 
before  our  suiiplies  were  exhausted  ;  that  wi-  worked 
at  },a-eat  altitudes,  my  camp  at  Aksii  hein^'  at  1.').7(I0  feet; 
and  that  the  peaks  were  so  lofty  an<l  in  many  cases 
so  preci[)itous  that,  it  would  have  been  out  of  tlu-  question 
for  one  burdened  with  a  heavy  theodolite  to  attempt  to 
scale  them  in  the  limited  time  at  our  dis})osal. 

J-Jefoie  1  left  Ak^u  1  was  rejoined  by  Jxaju,  who  brou^dit 
with  him  the  lon^'-expecti'd  Ladakis  and  ninety-live 
sheep,  laden  with  barley.  These  supplies  had  conu; 
under  the  ;,'uidance  of  twcj  men  from  the  villa^^e  of 
'I'aid\se,  who  were  anxious  for  emjiloyment.  A  com- 
|)atriot  of  theirs  whom  1  had  picked  up  at  ^  arkaml  had 
l)ecome  rather  la/y,  so  1  dismissed  him  and  [Mit  in  his 
place  (jiu'  of  the  new-comers,  a  man  wiio  had  accoUi- 
panied  ])a;,deisli  and  Carey  on  their  jourm-y  from  Ladak 
to  Polu. 

I''rom  Aksu  we  retraced  our  steps  to  Vepal  I'n^'ur, 
where  the  river  had  become  so  swolli-n  that  W(!  had  some 
(htViculty  in  fording'  it.  J  fere  Changfuncliuk  and  Sonam 
broufjht  tlu-ir  reports  concerning'  the  routes,  and,  thinking 
that  Chan^'funchuk's  description  intbcated  a  country  not 
entirely  impracticai)le  for  caravan  travelling',  I  resolved 
to  follow  his  directions.  The  sui)phes  not  rerpiircd  for 
this    journey    we    "cached,"    and    1    bad     to    rearran^'c 


DRPARTIKI-.    Ol-    KARA    SAI    MUX.       \<\ 

in;ittt'rs  willi  lilt'  r;ir;iv:in  iinii.  IluiiKlmn,  ;i  iialivf  of 
Kiiiii.  \vli(»  liad  bct'ii  workinfj;  in  :iii  unsatisfactory 
nianntT,  askt'd  for  his  disdiar^'f.  The  Kara  Sai  men  had 
rendered  excellent  service,  hut  they  had  fultilletl  their 
('n^'a{]fement  and  wished  to  return  lionie.  Not  a  week 
Ion«,'er  would  they  continue  with  nic,  hut  eventually,  hy 
the  inducement  of  very  hi^h  l>:i\,  I  persuaded  one  of 
them.  I'/nian  hy  name,  to  take  Jlumdum's  place.     This 


K  M:\    ^4^\    I'OXV    MKN. 


man  had  a  hrother  amnn^'  those  who  wi-re  rctuiiiin^' 
home,  and  wlu-n  the  lim.'  Ic.r  |iartin;4  came  tlw  Kavr- 
takin;,'  was  ceremonious,  .\fttr  shedding'  copious  tears, 
the  two  men  se[)aral»'d  reluctantly  and  slowly,  i'.ach 
had  his  amis  crossed,  and.  walkin;^  hackwanls.  how(>d 
a;,'ain  and  a^'ain  with  di^'nity  to  his  sorrowing  hrotlier. 
The  performance  was  not  men-  actinJ,^  and  it  would 
have    heeii    j>athetic    had    it    not     exceeded    the    require- 


iSj     /.\'    7V/.7:"/    ./.\7>   ('///.V/uS/:     Tl'R KF.STA .Y. 

inents  ot"  the  occasion,  the  p:ii'liii«j;  being  only  fi>r  a  lew 
weeks. 

Returning  tow  aids  our  old  route,  we  ])itche(l  o\n- 
camp,  at  tlie  end  of  the  second  day's  march,  two 
miles  east  of  Camp  Ul,  beside  a  co))ious  spring  of 
fairly  good  water,  thougli  only  a  little  fodder  was  found 
for  the  animals.  The  boortza  root  served  for  fuel, 
and  the  short  gi'owth  \\i;is  sutticient  for  the  shee])  and 
donkeys,  whii'h  crop  very  clo.se;  hut  the  ]>oJiirs  were 
very  scantily  fed. 

It  now  became  clear  that  the  information  supplied  hy 
C'hangfunchuk  was  not  trustwoit li\ .  In  his  e\[iloration 
he  had  not  started  morning  l)y  morning  with  the  rising 
sun  on  his  left,  hut  on  his  right,  his  direction  having 
been  north  of  east.  After  repeatedly  questiomng  him, 
I  found  it  was  useless  to  go  further  east  from  Cam])  '.)*.). 
Besides,  this  route  was  nearly  destitute  of  fodder,  but  the 
hope  of  reward  had  affected  Changfunchuk's  view  of  the 
region,  and  had  made  him  l)lind  to  its  difficulties. 

fn  returning  westwards  1  climhed  a  very  steep  and 
sharp-pointed  mountain,  wiiose  suimnit  from  a  distance 
seemed  broadei-  than  it  was.  1  contrived,  with  the 
assistance  of  a  liony  in  the  lower  portion  of  the  ascent, 
and  of  men  in  the  higher,  to  get  the  theodolite  cai'ried  to 
tlie  top,  where,  earlier  in  the  day,  Islam  had  erected  a 
pillar.  The  summit  contained  just  space  enough  for  tlie 
stand  of  the  theodolite,  and  1  had  to  move  about  very 
cautiously.  The  western  side  was  for  some  distance 
quite  vertical,  and  the  other  side  was  so  steep  that,  if  one 
had  slipped  in  any  direction,  he  would  have  met  a  speedy 
death.  We  made  our  footing  less  insecure  by  clearing 
away  the  loose  stones,  and  as  there  was  no  wind  we 
were  free  from  one  frequent  cause  of  trouble.  From  this 
point  we  could  see  the  stately  range  on  the  east  of  the 
Kiria  Ivivcr,  stretching  towards  the  north-east  beyond  the 


GOIXC   EAST  AdAf.W  1S3 

iiiijxisinj,'  ti"''1)l('-|><»inti'(l  inoiuitiiin  wliich  rose  on  the  east 
of  Yop.il  I'n^air.  It  was  noteworthy  tluit,  to  the  north- 
east of  the  tliroe-lu'iided  mountain,  the  snowfiehls  and 
i^laciers  of  the  ran^'e  were  far  more  extensive  than  to  the 
south-west  of  it.  Having'  linished  my  woik  on  this 
dreadful  peak,  1  packed  up  the  theodoHte,  re-erected  the 
pillar,  and  descended,  profoundly  thankful  that  no  catas- 
trophe had  happened,  and  on  reaching,'  my  (piarters  at 
Camp  100  (a  little  to  the  south  of  Camp  0:2)  close  to 
sj)rin^'s  of  <^ood  wati  r,  1  was  still  conscious  of  a  feelin*,' 
of  ^dadsome  satisfaction. 

l^'roni  this  place  we  a^ain  tuiiicd  to  the  east,  this  linie 
under  the  <,niidance  of  Souam.  who,  from  a  spot  in  the 
nei^hhourliood  of  Camj)  lO'J,  pointed  out  to  me  a  lake  he 
said  he  li;i(l  visited  two  \-ears  hefort'.  Ill  his  statement 
Siiiiam  was  (piite  wnm^^,  as  in  reconnoitring;  for  me  he 
had  mistaken  his  l)eariii«.(s  and  ^one  east  of  north  instead 
of  aiiiiit^t  due  ^oiith  as  ordered.  Tlie  re^doii  where  wc 
were  encamiied  was  very  hare,  with  no  ve{.fetation  t'xcept 
hooit/.a,  and  hut  little  of  that.  Owin^^  to  l>ad  health.  1 
was  unfit  to  undertake  reconnoitring'  work,  ami  1  had  to 
lament  tlu^  unfitness  of  my  men  for  any  such  puiiiose. 
The  most  trustworthy  of  tliem  was  Ahdiil  Karim.  and  I 
detaili'd  him,  with  Islam  as  a  companion,  to  look  fur  a 
route  leading'  southwards.  Armed  with  a  carhinc.  pro- 
vided with  a  compass  and  ;,'ood  ^dasses,  and  mounted  on 
the  hi'st  pony  in  the  caravan,  lie  started  early  in  the 
morning  and  ascended  the  ri\er  IIowjiil;  tioni  the  south. 
Ivxpectinj,'  his  return  hefore  dusk  I  spent  })art  of  the  day 
in  examining'  the  country  ahout  tiie  camp,  wlii(di  was  at 
an  altitude  oi'  Id,  100  feet.  Close  hy.  hut  a  littK'  lii^dur 
up,  I  noticed  a  dry  watercoin*se,  the  side  of  which  pre- 
sented a  peculiar  appearand*.  On  a  dosi-r  examination 
1  ohserved  a  deep  stratum  of  dry  water-plants,  similar 
in   appt'arance    to    those    that    urow    on    the    small    lake 


iS4     /.y    77 />/:'/'  A\/)    Cf/IXfiSF.     TrKk'IiSTAX. 

immediately  to  the  west  of  Horpa  or  Giirmen  Cho.*  The 
extent  of  the  deposit  I  could  not  definitely  ascertain,  but 
its  depth  was  certainly  1*2  feet,  probably  more.  Inter- 
spersed amon^'  the  weed  were  many  thin  layers  of  blue 


*  A  large  mass  of  these  plants,  which  are  probably 
several  thousand  years  old,  was  submitted  to  Dr.  A.  B. 
Eendle,  ^NI.A.,  D.Sc,  of  the  British  Museum,  who  has 
kindly  favoured  \\\v  with  his  opinion,  viz.  :  — 

"  The  diy  water-plants  referred  to  consist  of  dusty 
masses  of  short  broken  lenoths  of  the  grass-like  leaves 
of  Zosfcra  marina,  Linn.,  the  Grasswrack.  Its  identity 
is  put  beyond  question  by  the  presence  of  a  few  fruits 
still  protected  by  the  spathe.  The  Grasswrack  is  a  marine 
flowering  plant  widely  distributed  on  temperate  coasts  ; 
its  slender  ribbon-like  bright  green  leaves  are  a  common 
object  on  our  shores.  Captain  Dcasy's  discovery  of 
remains  of  this  plant  at  these  high  altitudes  is  of  much 
interest,  "^riiere  is  no  record  of  its  occurrence  in  Central 
Asia.  It  occurs  in  the  jNIediterranean  and  the  Black 
Sea,  and  on  the  north-east  coast  of  Asia,  while  a  smaller 
species,  Zo-ffera  na)ia,  is  found  in  the  Caspian  Sea. 

"  Glau.r  maritima,  Linn.,  and  TriglocJiiu  maritiniu))i, 
Linn.,  both  of  which  occur  in  Captain  Deasy's  list,  are 
similar  examples  of  maritimal  plants  with  a  north  tem- 
perate distribution  occurnng  at  high  altitudes  in  Central 
Asia.  Their  presence  may  be  explained  by  a  former 
connection  with  the  Mediterranean  l)asin,  indicated  by 
the  band  of  tertiary  marine  deposits  stretching  eastwards 
from  the  Alps  to  the  Himalayas,  and  occurring  at  Leh 
at  a  height  of  '21,000  feet. 

"  As  to  the  age  of  the  deposits  of  Zofitera  and  blue 
shaly  clay  it  is  impossible  to  hazard  a  guess.  From  their 
appearance  these  plant-remains  might  be  only  a  few  years 


XO    FliASini.E    CARAVAX   ROl'TE.        1S5 

shaly  clay.  In  times  perhaps  not  very  remote  a  great 
lake  must  have  extended  from  this  spot  eastwards  for 
many  miles,  northwards  to  the  Kwen  Lun,  and  south-west 
to  near  Iksu  and  possihly  as  far  as  the  pass  near  Togral 
Monpo.  I'he  water,  prohahly  by  erosion,  had  found  a 
passage  for  itself  through  the  Kwen  Lun  barrier  and  had 
gone  to  swell  the  Kiria  liiver,  until  the  bed  of  the  lake 
ran  dry. 

Abdul  had  not  returned  by  dusk,  hut  with  the  help 
of  men  sent  out  witli  lanterns  for  their  guidance,  lie  and 
Islam  found  their  way  back  about  nine  o'clock.  Their- 
report  showed  that  for  rull\"  thiily  miles  there  was  no 
vegetation,  but  there  was  water,  and  the  ascent  was  easy. 
It  would  be  possible  to  get  over  the  distance  at  the  cost 
of  suffering  and  loss  among  the  aiiinuils.  provided  fodder 
were  found  beyond.  The  advantage  did  not  seem  pro- 
portionate to  the  probable  loss  of  animals,  and  I  resolved 
to  take  some  other  course.  I  was  now  quite  convinced 
that  there  was  no  feasible  caravan  route  leading  towards 
Central  Tibet,  so  I  once  more  bent  my  steps  towards 
Yepal  Uugur,  whence  I  meant  to  ascend  the  valley  of 
the  Kiria  to  its  source  and  re-visit  "Fever  Cam])"'  near 
Yeshil  Kul. 

In  travelling  this  valley  in  the  month  of  July,  one 
might  have  expected  to  liml  everywhere  streams  and 
rivcH's  with  a  steady  tlow .  Hut  in  one  long  stretch  of 
about  twentv-two  miles   we   louiul  oiilv  one  or  two  tinv 


old  ;  b(\vond  IxMug  very  dry  and  dusty  and  broken  they 
show  no  alteration,  and  the  internal  structure  is  perfectly 
well  preserved. 

"  The  intermittent  occurrence  of  layers  of  blue  clay 
points  to  repeated  changes  in  level  in  the  salt-lake^  in 
which  the  plants  were  presumably  growing." 


i.^''.    /.v  '/7/:/rr  ./.\7)  c/f/xhsfi  tcrkhstax. 

nvuKts,  twi'lve  or  fourteen  inches  wide,  and  tlu>se  only 
on  hot  days.  As  a  rule  streams  liardly  exist  except  durin;,' 
the  hottest  hours  of  the  day,  and  then  they  become 
rushing  torrents.  Close  to  Camp  lO.S,  a  streamlet  utterly 
insignificant  in  the  forenoon  had  by  noon  become  so 
strong  that  it  swept  two  donkeys  of!"  their  legs,  and  by 
two  o'clock  it  was  a  raging  torrent.  The  mountain-sides, 
luird  and  precipitous,  harl)our  no  vegetable  absorbent  to 
retard  the  descent  of  the  melting  snow,  and  the  fording 
of  such  a  river  as  tlic  Kiria  is  not  witlinut  danger.  I 
hoped  it  might  not  l)e  necessary  to  cross  before  reaching 
I^)aba  Hatun,  and  1  went  on  ahead  to  examine  the 
route.  The  almost  vertical  iiKnintains  on  the  right  bank 
approached  close  to  the  river,  leaving  no  room  \nv  tlic 
caravan  to  pass.  The  barrier  was  insuperable,  and  tlie 
river  would  have  to  be  crossed.  Choosing  a  spot  l)elow  a 
sharp  bend  in  the  channel,  I  crossed  and  ascertained  the 
least  dangerous  course  for  tlie  animals  to  follow.  Then 
1  tfidk  up  a  position  in  the  channel  so  as  to  direct  the 
men,  and,  to  some  extent,  tlit'  ponies.  There  was  some 
difficulty  in  getting  the  slu-eji  into  the  water;  for  a  long 
time  they  stood  huddled  together,  regardless  of  tlie 
shouting  and  pushing  of  the  men,  but  at  last  they  plunged 
in  and  without  difficulty  swam  across.  Some  of  the  men 
and  all  the  large  ponies  had  to  wade  across  again  and 
again,  carrying  loads  of  various  sorts,  and  at  last  the 
whole  of  the  men,  beasts,  and  baggage  were  transferred 
to  the  further  bank.  The  breadth  f)f  the  river  at  the  ford 
was  more  than  fifty  yards  ;  the  bottom  was  rough  and 
irregular  with  large  stones,  wliieli  were  invisible  owing  to 
the  muddiness  of  the  water  ;  the  current  was  swift,  and 
at  one  place  there  was  a  sudden  drop  to  deeper  water, 
so  tliat  even  the  experienced  animals  bad  difficulty  in 
keeping  their  feet.  However,  we  had  no  more  serious 
mishap  than  the  soaking  of  clothes  ;ind  of  some  baggage. 


SO[^RCES    OF   KfRf.l    RIVER.  189 

On  the  edge  of  a  high  clill'  overlooking  the  left  bank  of 
the  river  stood  the  old  ruin  of  Baba  Hatun.  It  seemed 
strongly  built  and  possessed  of  an  interesting  history,  but 
none  of  my  people  had  any  knowledge  of  it. 

From  Iksu,  where  we  found  the  last  grassy  patch  before 
entering  Tibet  from  Aksai  Chin,  the  route  lay  over  high 
bare  hills  on  which  were  some  tiny  lakelets.  From  near 
this  point  the  left  side  of  the  Kiria  valley  was  too  soft 
tor  the  comfortable  advance  of  the  caravan,  and  we  re- 
crossed  the  river,  now  much  smaller,  at  a  ford  just  below 
one  of  the  lakes.  From  the  hills  we  had  crossed,  and 
also  from  Camp  100,  we  had  obtained  a  wide  view  of  the 
snow-clad  mountains,  with  many  glaciers,  lying  to  the 
west  and  south-west.  With  the  exception  of  some  old 
boortza  of  little  use  as  fodder,  the  country  round  Togral, 
as  far  as  the  eye,  aided  by  powerful  glasses,  could  make 
out,  produced  nothing.  At  this  dreary  spot,  17,(300  feet 
high,  right  over  against  the  snow-clad  range,  the  tem- 
perature of  boiling  water  was  180"G°  F.,  but  only  two 
of  our  company,  Abdul  Karim  and  Raliman,  a  hard- 
working native  of  Kiria,  suffered  from  llu'  thinness  of  the 
air.  The  lakes  we  passed  are  fed  l)y  ninnberless  rivulets 
fi'oni  this  range,  and  from  that  on  the  east  side  of  the 
Kiiia,  these  streams  being  the  real  sources  of  the  Kiria 
l\ivei-.  About  the  pass,  and  a  few  miles  to  the  south 
of  the  Togral  Monpo,  we  h)und  a  \\\y\v  e.\[)anse  of  gras^^, 
and  further  on  a  tract  of  country  of  lower  altitude. 

As  we  marched  along  llic  noilii  side  of  Yeslnl  Kiil, 
where  the  ground  a[)peared  waterless,  1  was  surprised 
to  see,  close  to  the  north-eastern  corner  and  not  many 
yards  distant,  a  fairly  large  s])ring,  probably  of  fresh 
water,  bubbling  up  througii  the  salt  water  of  the  lake. 
Cn  the  shores,  especiiilly  the  eastei-n  shore,  tlie  caravan 
men  were  pleased  to  llnd  exnUcnt  sail.  At  "Fever 
Camp"    we    found   the  (_)ld  positions  of  our  tents  and  of 


I90     /.y    TinET  AXD   CHWESE    TURKESTAN. 

the  faiii|)  lilt's  siill  imirked.  The  sprinfrs  whicli  had 
su])phed  us  in  1S9()  wore  ahiiost  dry,  but  anotlier  was 
found.  ])all)ir  Ivai  ;iiiil  1  hotook  durselves  to  suim'v 
uperalions,  hut  the  ground  about  "Fever  Camp"  did 
not  a(hnit  of  sutheiently  long  bases,  and  we  sent  a  num 
to  look  for  water  ten  or  twelve  miles  to  the  east,  where, 
at  the  foot  of  high  mountains,  there  was  abundance  of 
grass.  The  search  was  successful,  and  we  moved  our 
camp  to  the  new  ground.  To  make  sure  of  obtaining 
good  trigonometrical  values  foi-  tlie  longitude  of  this 
camp  (No.  110),  we  joined  tlie  triangnlation  carried  out 
there  to  that  performed  at  "  Fever  Camp."  By  this 
means  bases  of  about  eight  to  twelve  miles  were  obtained 
and  connection  made  with  the  survey  executed  in  181)0. 
Still,  much  remained  to  be  done,  for  the  chain  of  triangles 
begun  at  Aksu  was  not  yet  satisfactorily  linked  to  that  of 
"Fever  Camp"  (Camp  109)  and  Camp  110.    . 


C'll Ai'TKK    XII 

ISIiigiiificent  scenery- "Wcllby's  peaks  Strong  winds — Returning — 
Work  near  J{aba  Ilatun— Ficturn  to  Aksu — Arrival  of  Raju  witli 
supplies — Chetking  previous  work — Dalbir  llai  sick  — Ulugh  Kul 
— Sources  of  Khotan  iliver— Fine  yak — Camp  116— Accident  to 
ponies — Finishing  surveying — The  Polu  gorge — Punishing  theft 
— Vile  track — Welcome  presents — Return  to  Polu — Dinner  to 
headmen — Dalbir  Rai  threatens  to  murder  me — Abdul  Karim 
saves  bloodshed — 15ad  weather — Return  to  Yarkaiid — Dilatory 
post. 

"L'^JvOM  tliL'  bill  stations  near  Camp  110  we  coiinnanded 
-^  a  view  of  scenery  wliieli,  for  extent  and  pjrandeur. 
was  uiiMD'passc'd  aii\  \\  lit  re.  We  were  surroiiiuled  li\ 
mountains,  low  on  the  lK)rizon  from  the  north-east  lo 
the  soutii-east.  hut  elsi-where  lofty  and  white  with  snow. 
The  peaks  which,  wilh  a  ;.;ap  hcri'  and  thciw  foi-iiicd  our 
horizon  on  three  sides,  were  xisihie  to  ^aeat  distances. 
In  clear  weather  we  could  plaiidy  discern  mountains  to 
ilic  south  of  j\Ianf»tza  Clio,  ahout  ninety  miles  distant. 
;iiid  s(\(i;il  times  we  clearly  saw  thi;  prominent  mountain 
wnh  the  douhle  peak,  28,490  foot  hi«,di  in  Mo"  lU'  MO" 
north   latitudi",  and  HO"  58'  east  lon^dtude. 

( )n  the  map  illustrating  the  late  Captain  W'clihy's  ad- 
viMiturous  aiul  successful  jomiiey  across  Tibet,  a  prominent 
peak  is  placed  a  little  to  the  south  of  an  extensivt^  snow- 
clad  raii^e  i-unniuL;-  ahiiost  due  east  and  west.  l''or  this 
ranjic  I  made  careful   search  lYoni  lliice  hill  stations  near 


192     /\    Tir^ET  AND    CI  I IX  USE    TVRKRSTAX. 

this  r;iiup.  l)ut  could  find  no  niouutuiiis  ;it  all  corresponding 
with  the  representation.  The  main  range  lies  not  east 
and  west,  but  north-east  and  south-west,  and  beyond  it 
flows  the  Kiria  Kiver.  The  prominent  peak  a  little  to 
the  south  of  the  range  is  22,850  feet  high,  and  stands 
in  85°  34'  7"  north  latitude  and  82°  20'  18"  east  longitude 

Here  clouds  would  occasionally  hang  about  important 
peaks  for  hours  at  a  time,  during  which  I  had  to  sit 
patiently  on  the  lee  side  of  the  station.  Strong  winds, 
sometimes  with  sleet  and  rain,  not  only  retarded  work  at 
the  hill  stations,  but  caused  trouble  on  the  lower  ground, 
dispersing  the  sheep  and  threatening  the  demolition  of 
the  camp  itself. 

Having  completed  our  survey  work  we  entered  on  the 
return  journey  to  Aksu  on  September  8th,  our  route 
being  by  way  of  Baba  Hatun.  At  Tongral  Chunzak  the 
only  sufferer  from  the  rarefaction  of  the  air  was  the 
shepherd,  Nurbu,  who  had  twice  before  visited  the  place 
without  inconvenience.  His  indisposition  continued  till 
we  reached  a  sheltered  spot  (Camp  112)  a  few  miles  west 
by  south  of  Baba  Hatun.  Here  I  completed  the  con- 
nection between  the  triangulation  executed  this  year  and 
that  carried  out  in  1896,  and  consequently  with  that  of 
tlie  Survey  of  India. 

Soon  after  my  return  to  Aksu,  Kaju,  wIkj  had  been  sent 
to  Kiria  for  fresh  supplies,  arrived  in  camp.  He  had  ])een 
directed  to  request  the  help  of  the  Chow-Kuan  in  obtaining 
transport,  but  that  official  not  only  refused  assistance  but 
ordered  him  not  to  return  to  me  by  way  of  Polu.  Kaju, 
however,  had  already  made  arrangements  for  the  first 
portion  of  his  journey,  and,  starting  at  once  from  Kiria, 
he  was  able,  by  rapid  marches,  to  reach  Polu  before  the 
villagers  had  been  informed  of  the  Chow-Kuan's  prohibi- 
tion. Here  he  obtained  fresh  transport  and  speedily 
resumed  his  march.     Kaju's  success  in   this  matter  en- 


*At- 


r 


:kll^ 


TAKING    OBSF.RVATIUNS    IN    C.\M1' 


(7//:(7\'/\(,    /'A'/:r/(US    //('AA'.  193 

ahlfd  luc  ti)  txtfiiil  iii\  joiiiiicN'  so  as  to  lake  111  tlic 
sources  of  tin-  Kliotan  i;i\i  r.  Tlif  ri\cr  is  foniic<l  l>y 
the  juiK-tioii  of  two  Niuall  slicaiiis  a  little  to  tlie  east 
ol'  :{.V'  M(*>'  north  latitude  and  si"  'M '  cast  loii^dtudc  After 
two  short  marches  from  Als>n,  1  pittlnd  ('aiiip  111  close 
heside  the  right  hank  of  the  most  northerly  of  these, 
and  here  I  carefully  and,  1  heliev(>,  acciwately  determined 
my  position.  It  was  with  suiprise  that  I  had  learned 
during  my  first  visit  to  Aksu  that  the  Khotan  River  was 
so  near.  Two  hunters  had  then  visited  my  camp  and. 
wIk'U  asked  whence  they  had  come,  had  I'l'plied  that  they 
ha<l  hfcn  shooting  near  the  soiu'ccs  of  the  Khotan  iJivcr. 
whii-li.  they  said,  wi-re  not  far  olV.  At  lirst  1  douhted 
the  ti-uth  of  this  information,  hut  after  considering  th(> 
matter  could  see  no  reason  for  (iishciicf.  liaju  tdd  me 
that.  Iniving  lost  his  way  when  goiug  to  rcdii.  he  had 
he»'n  set  right  hy  two  hunters  close  to  the  sources  of  the 
Kiiotan  Jiiver.  htit  1  had  hetrayed  no  anxiety  to  visit  them. 
nor  could  I  discover  any  motive  for  deception.  .V  few 
inarches  lower  down,  according  to  our  infoiinants.  then^ 
were  gold  diggings  on  the  river  hank,  worked  hy  nii'U 
from  Kiiia;  hut  as  1  hail  now  oidy  siilt'uient  |)rovisions 
for  the  return  journey  to  roju.  I  made  no  attt mpt  to  \isit 
tlie  diggings. 

In  order  t<>  aceoinplisli  the  (lit'ticult  and  delicate  ta>k.  of 
carrying  the  triangulation  across  tin-  Kwen  Lun  range  to 
Camp  7;i,  1  resolved  to  lemain  for  a  day  closi-  to  the  \i  To 
Pass,  th(»ugh  at  this  place,  and  foi'  miles  round  it.  the 
country  is  devoid  of  vegetation.  In  anticipation  of  this 
days  work  1  had  sent  Islam  from  .\ksu  to  l*(»lu  for  forage 
and  fuel,  and  on  reaching  the  spot  was  gri<'\fd  to  find 
tiiat  he  had  not  arrivtd.  In  my  anxiety  I  was  caily  astir 
next  morning,  and  to  my  delight  saw  Islam  apprt»aching 
with  a  few  (loid<eys  laden  with  wdod.  chopped  straw,  and 
harley.  enough  for  a  tW(  lUy-fonr  hours'   sup|)ly  for  a   few 

>4 


194    /.\'  riiih'.T  A\n  (  ni\i-.si{  tikki-siax. 

of  our  l);\;,f^f:i^'('  amiii.ils.  'I'lic  slu'C'[)  and  all  tin-  nilirr 
aniiiials  imt  at  juvscnt  ivquiivd  were  sent  foiwanl  to  Klia 
^'ak  Pay.  wIhtc  tlicv  woiilil  liml  ^"-rass.  My  survey  \voi-l< 
here  was  dt-layed  hy  the  illness  ot  DalJjir  l\ai,  and  1  had 
to  record  for  myself.  The  hill  station  most  convenient 
for  my  purpose  was  on  the  top  of  a  sharp  peak,  not  so 
lofty  as  that  near  Camps  02  and  100.  hut  quite  as  dangerous. 
1  had  left  two  p(^nies  liohhled  half-way  up  the  mountains, 
and  wliilc  1  was  husy  with  my  ohservations  on  the  summit 
1  noticed  that  one  of  them  hecame  restive,  and  while 
tryin«,'  to  move  ahout  (ncrhalanced  himself  and  fell.  Tlu' 
other  (my  riding  ])ony)  was  fastened  to  him,  and  hotli  h'll 
and  slid  and  rolled  togctlicr  dnwn  tlie  mountain-side. 
Their  descent  was  st(jpped  at  a  more  level  })lace,  hut  as 
they  hoth  lay  motionless  I  concluded  they  were  killed,  and 
continued  my  work.  Kunehnk  went  to  their  assistance, 
hut  hefore  he  could  reach  them  tiiey  Ijoth  showed  signs  of 
life,  and  greatly  to  my  sui'prise  he  soon  liad  them  on  their 
feet.  The  animals  were  much  hruised  and  cut,  but  neither 
had  any  hones  broken,  and  my  saddle  was  only  scratched. 

About  (Uisk  on  our  second  evening  at  this  desolate 
place,  a  fine  hull  yak  rame  leisurely  walking  up  the 
valley.  Coming  in  sight  of  the  tents  lie  made  a  long 
pause,  after  which  he  went  on  his  way  at  a  nK^re  rapid 
pace.  What  his  ])urpose  was  in  that  dicary  region  we 
could  not  divine. 

Next  morning  Dalhir  T?ai  and  the  others  started  c;arly 
for  Kha  Vak  Day,  while  I  with  Changfunchuk,  who  was 
usefid  for  lieliographic  work,  completed  the  survey 
oj)erations.  The  descent  from  the  At  To  Pass  into  the 
I'olu  gorge,  though  steep,  was  not  difficult.  The  upjxr 
part  of  the  valley  was  quite  waterless;  further  on  we 
found  some  springs  of  undrinkable  water,  and  at  this 
point  the  gorge  rapidly  contracted,  steep  and  barren 
mountains    towering  <jn  either  hand.      The  rest  of    the 


\ll.l:     I'KACK.  195 

route  wii-i  iiviT  (lilVii-iili  ;iinl  stony  ^'I'tmml  to  within  a 
short  (listiuicc  of  I\ha  \  ak  |)ay  (place  whei'e  iniich  siiow 
falls).  wIhto  we  toiind  shelti-r  foi'  the  ni^'ht  in  small,  low 
caves,  liollowed  out  <»!'  the  loess  which  formed  tiie  hank 
of  a  small,  dry  watercourse.  Aluuii  nine  in  the  evenni;,' 
the  tempi'ratiire  stood  at  ahcnit  •"^O"  j-'..  and  I  was 
ohlifjed  to  lay  aside  my  fur  coat.  W'iien  1  examineti  the 
provisions  sent  forward  with  the  caravan  to  tlvis  place,  1 
found  there  had  heen  disohedience  and  theft  hy  the  way. 
Full  rations  of  meat  and  other  provisions  had  heen  served 
out  for  the  journey,  hut  two  nf  the  men.  consulting,' oidy 
tln'ir  own  preferences,  had  ij^'iiored  the  rations  and  chosen 
their  diet  for  themselves.  A  strict  investijjjation  was  made, 
and  th(^  ^'uilt  having'  heen  hrou^dit  home  to  the  culprits 
a  moderate  punishnunt  was  awarded. 

h'rom  this  eamj)  to  the  neij^'hhourhood  of  Alajoi  the 
track  was  steep,  narrow,  and.  whei'e  it  lay  alon^'  the 
hottoni  of  the  gorge,  very  stony.  The  worst  jiart  of  it 
hegan  a  little  more  than  a  mile  to  the  north  of  Kha  Yak 
Day.  Here,  at  a  s[)ot  marked  hy  gigantic  houhU'rs.  the 
track  left  the  valley  and,  having  risen  for  a  few  yards 
over  steep  rock,  went  so  closely  round  the  foot  of  a  large 
houhler  that  several  of  the  animals  had  to  !>(>  unloaded 
hefore  attemi)ling  to  pass.  I'rom  this  point  tlu're  was  a 
steep  ascent  of  some  hundreds  of  feel  to  the  top  of  a 
ri<lge.  whii-h  we  had  to  eross  in  order  to  avoid  a  waterfall 
harring  our  way  down  the  valley.  The  descent  was  very 
st(vp  ;  at  one  )>Iace  it  was  so  narrow  and  dangerous  tiiat 
the  men  had  to  cany  the  haggage,  and  [)revent  the  ponies 
from  turning'  somersaults  down  the  declivity  hy  hanging 
on  t(»  their  tails.  With  care  wi>  reached  the  hottom. 
which  was  onlv  a  few  vards  across,  and  then  we  heiJ.in  to 
clind)  the  st<'ep  ascent  on  the  other  side  hy  means  of  /i<r- 
/ag  paths.  .\s  th(^  <'aravan  slowly  mounted,  the  men  and 
^animals  in  front   sri   in  motion   mnnherless  stones.  wh)»-h 


196     /.y    77/!/rf   .l.V/)    ('///.V/:S/:     flKK/iST.W. 

l)eltecl  those  who  wiTc  stiu^^i^liiij,^  below.  Altei'  we  liad 
passed  the  worst  part  of  the  p^orge,  we  met  the  Ynz  luishi 
of  Pohi  and  several  of  llic  villagers  bringing  a  large 
present  of  delicious  melons,  peaches,  and  grapes.  Halting 
and  returning  the  salutations  of  our  friends,  we  at  once 
showed  our  full  appreciation  of  the  refreshing  fruit.  I 
reserved  a  fair  share  for  my  hard-working  companions 
who  were  behind,  and  all.  as  they  came   up,  joined  in 


KCF.XF.    IN    THK    I'OI.l-    GOltGE. 


praising  the  Iruil.  On(;  man  ^^llo  had  been  lazy  and 
vexatious  was,  by  general  consent,  left  unsupplied,  and 
the  spectacle  of  "  virtue  rewarded  "  provoked  his  keen 
resentment.  Fi-oni  the  spot  where  we  rested  we  had  a 
view  of  the  green  hills  of  the  lower  part  of  the  valley. 
After  months  spent  in  the  desolate  regions  of  Tibet  and 
Aksai  Chin  a  glimpse  of  vegetation  was  delightful,  and 
seemed  to  charm  away  the  anxiety  which  had  oppressed 


DfXX/'lR    TO   IIIiAn}rE\'.  197 

me.  This  gladness  iiiereased  as  we  advanced  and  belield 
cornfields  and  trees.  At  Alajoi  we  found  shelter  in  a 
loess  cave,  and  the  I'ollowing  day  (September  '25th),  after 
crossing  a  country  covered  with  short  grass  and  low  ])lants 
like  boortza,  we  entered  Polu. 

Within  my  three  months'  absence  from  this  place, 
several  letters  had  conje  from  the  Beg  of  Polu  and  Chaka 
strictly  forbidding  tin;  villagers  to  assist  me,  on  pain  of 
severe  penalties.  W  hen  luiju  had  applied  for  baggage 
animals  to  take  supplies  to  Yepal  Ungur,  the  headmen 
liad  met  together  and  after  consultation  had  resolved  to 
disregard  the  orders  of  their  Beg.  A  man  who  had  ac- 
companied Paju  to  Yepal  Ungur  liad,  on  his  return,  been 
arrested,  but  when  it  was  represented  to  the  Beg  that  the 
man  was  my  servant  and  that  1  demanded  his  release,  the 
pri.soner  was  set  at  liberty  without  injiny  to  person  or 
purse.  When  Islam  subsequently  arrived  at  the  village 
in  quest  of  forage  the  Beg  sent  another  letter  of  remon- 
strance, which  was  read  to  the  inhabitants  without  eifect, 
and  a  third  epistle  produced  no  better  result.  The  Yuz 
]3ashi  and  villagers  who  brought  the  fruit  as  1  was 
approaching  Alajoi,  only  gave  expression  to  tlu'  goodwill 
with  wliich  the  people,  as  distinguished  from  the  officials, 
of  Sin-Chiang  everywhere  regarded  f^ritish  travellers.  T 
had  some  dil'ticulty  in  di'ciding  how  to  show  my  apprecia- 
tion of  tiies<'  various  acts  of  kindness.  I  had  nothing  that 
1  could  offer  them  in  the  foiiii  of  presents;  money  wotdil 
have  been  inapproi)riate  ;  1  iherefore  determined,  after 
paying  liberally  for  the  forage  and  hire  of  animals,  to 
invite  the  headmen  and  all  who  had  assisted  me  to  a 
dinner.  Flour,  ghee,  and  rice  were  obtained  in  the  village  ; 
sugar,  spices,  currants,  tea,  and  other  articles  w(>re  bought 
from  a  snuill  trader  who  happened  to  be  in  I'olii.  1  had 
a  couple  of  fat  shee[)  slaughtered,  and  on  the  day  after 
my  return  L  had  as  excellent  a  pilau  as  ever  1  tasted  laid 


lys    Av  iiiuir  Axn  ciii\r.si-.   iirki-.stax. 

for  my  ^'iiests,  and  the  nuiubt'r  ul  llujsc  who  accepted  my 
invitation  «,avatly  exeeedi'd  my  anticipation.  The  repast 
was  served  in  the  Httle  courtyard  of  the  house  I  occupied, 
and  in  accordance  with  local  etiijuette  1  appeared  amonj^ 
the  ^'iiests,  addressed  to  them  a  few  words  of  welcome, 
and  tasted  the  food,  wiiich  was  indeed  appetising.  The 
guests  did  not  linger  over  the  repast.  The  huge  portions 
served    to   iheiu    ra]ndly  disa])]ieared.  washed   down   with 


KEEUINli    MV    HilKNKS    AT    TOIA', 


many  cups  of  tea,  and  then  the  villagers  filed  (jut.  I  was 
subsequently  informed  that  they  not  only  did  justice  U) 
the  viands,  but  e.xpressed  theii-  kindly  appreciation  of  my 
motives  in  providing  the  feast. 

Afraid  lest  the  villagers  sliould  get  into  trouble  on  my 
account.  I  inquired  whether  I  ought  to  keep  silence  con- 
cerning the  assistance  they  had  rendered  me,  and  I  was  a 
little  sur[)i-isc(l  to  find  that  they  desired  no  concealment. 


riiKi-.. \  I i:\}:n  /; ) ■   n.i i. iuk  r. \ i.       \ 99 

It'  tlicir  [ii-dcccdiii^s  wciT  called  in  (jiio.! Idii  liy  the 
Chow-Kuan,  tliev  would  tell  him  that  tiny  regarded  iiie  as 
his  guest,  not  theirs,  and  that  it  was  for  this  reason  tliey 
•  had  helped  ine.  This  view  ol'  tlu-  matlci'  was  in  aeeor- 
(laiii-r  wiili  tlit'()r\,  for  in  Siii-( 'liiaiig  1  was  in  fact 
deseiihed  as  the  guest  yt'i  the  ('hinese  oHieials,  hut  they 
no  doul)t  wished  me  anywhere  hut  within  tlieir 
juris(hction. 

Tlie  conduct  of  Dalhir  liai  lor  the  last  thi'ee  months  had 
been  very  exasperating.  He  was  (juite  ct)mpetent  to 
assist  nie  in  my  ohseivations,  hut  in  locording  he 
deliberately  made  false  entries.  1  had  already  det<'eted 
his  mis-statements,  and  had  warned  him  against  a 
repetition  of  such  hehaviour.  hut  during  this  visit  to 
I'olu  he  again  wilfully  I'ecorded  wrongly.  I  was  able  to 
check  his  work  not  oidy  by  my  own  notes  but  also  by 
means  of  a  chronogra])h.  and  when  I  had  satisfied  myself 
of  his  guilt  I  told  Inni  tliat  such  conduct  was  un[)ardon- 
ahle.  l'"or  days  he  had  limped  about  as  if  suffering  from 
severe  lameness,  but  now.  on  r«'tiring  from  my  [)resence, 
he  at  once  recovered  full  use  of  his  liml».  KunniuL;  to 
tlic  room  winch  In-  liad  shared  with  Abdul  Karini  and 
1 'a.ss,  he  was  followed  by  Kaju.  wlio  (juickly  returneil  to 
describe  the  situation  of  affairs.  Halbir  Uai  had  seated 
himself  in  a  corner,  where,  \\itli  a  drawn  liookcry  by  his 
sid(!  and  a  loatU'd  (■arl)ine  in  his  bands,  be  had  command 
of  the  door  as  well  as  of  an  a|K'rtui"e  m  the  roof,  and 
threatened  death  to  any  one  who  apinoached.  Abdul 
Karim  and  Changfunchuk  re|)eated  the  same  tale  and 
urged  me  not  to  e<»  near  him.  l'ee|)ine  through  the  dooi-- 
vvay  I  saw  halbir  Kai  with  his  carbine  pointed  at  me.  and 
lieard  his  nunderous  threats.  1  wi-nt  and  loaded  my 
cari)ine.  an  op(M"ation  which  was  prolonged  by  the  jam- 
ming of  the  cart  ridges,  but  when  1  i-etiu'iied  .Vbdnl .  ha ving 
by  promises  of  interci's^ion  persuade(l  1  )albir  to  la\'  aside  his 


200     /.\'    TlllUr  AXn   illlXl-.Sli    liKKHSrAX. 

weapons,  had  st'i/t-d  him  and  hrou^^hl  him  oiitsicU'.  where 
a  huge  crowd  of  villagers  had  collected.  I-larly  the  next 
morning  I  sent  Dalbir  Kai,  under  the  charge  of  Kaju  and 
an  escort  provided  hv  the  Yuz  Hashi,  to  Kiria.  To  the 
Ciiow-Knan  of  Kiria  1  sent  a  polite  letter  infornnng  him 
of  l)ali»ir  Kai's  misdeeds,  and  recpiesting  that  he  might  be 
sent  under  esccjrt  to  Yarkand,  there  to  await  Macartney's 
orders.  In  my  passport  ail  officials  are  directed  to  afford 
me  due  "  protection."  and  this  protection  I  asked  for  in 
view  of  Dalbir's  ]\ai"s  threats  to  kill  me. 

When  this  mattiM-  was  disposed  of  1  went  to  the 
plateau,  hoping  to  find  antelope,  hut  for  two  days  snow 
fell  continuously,  and  1  had  to  take  shelter  in  a  sniall 
cave  hollowed  out  of  the  loess  by  shepherds.  These  caves 
are  difficult  to  enter,  and  are  so  small  that  they  scarcely 
permit  one  to  move  without  touching  the  walls  and 
bringing  down  showers  of  loess.  \\'hen  the  snow  ceased 
falling,  and  the  liaze  cleared  away,  I  searched  for  game 
hut  found  none,  aiul  was  glad  to  return  to  the  comh»rtable 
resting-place  at  Polu. 

In  these  journeys  the  baggage  animals  displayed  very 
various  powers  of  endurance.  The  sheep  aiul  donkeys 
l<jst  far  less  fiesh  than  did  the  ponies.  The  big  Yarkand 
ponies  became  very  thin,  and  proved  quite  unsuitable  for 
Tibet.  The  small  ponies  purchased  in  Kashmir  and  at 
(lil;^Mlaiid  Yaikand  kept  in  ix'ttei*  condition.  (  )iic  of  these 
was  of  a  ijuarrelsonie  disposition,  aiul,  though  generally 
victorioUN  in  his  encounters,  received  on  oiu;  occasion  such 
a  bruisin;,'  as  to  re<juire  a  great  deal  of  attention  from  me. 
His  nose  was  Inully  kicked  and  the  b<jne  l>roken,  one  leg 
was  cut,  and  on  another  a  large  abscess  was  produced. 
Having  on  Imnd  also  the  care  of  the  ponies  which  had 
fallen  down  the  mountains-slope  near  the  At  To  Pass,  I 
found  my  veterinary  jH'actice  more  extensive  than  was 
desnahle.      ^ly  orders  tliat  the  ponies  and  donkeys  should 


Kiisr/Mj'  .1  r  roiA'.  201 

be  cxtTcised  cwrv  day  <,'reatly  surprised  holli  caraviui 
iiitii  and  villaj^a'rs.  who,  regardin«(  such  exercise  as  a  <^oud 
j(jkt.',  wished  to  share  in  the  liui.  One  villa^'er.  who  had 
never  bei'ii  on  horsel)a';k  Ix-lori',  mounted  a  pony  whieli, 
while  merely  walking'  dcmincly  ak)n^'  tlie  track,  swerved 
sh^ditly  and  unwittin^dy  sent  his  rider  to  the  <,'round. 
The  man  fell  on  soft  earth  hut  was  quite  stunned,  and 
the  messenger,  despatched  to  the  viUa^^'e  for  help  only 
succeeded  in  l)ringin»f  out  crowds  of  woman,  who,  weep- 
ing; and  wailing,  stared  at  their  unconscious  kinsman.  It 
was  a  long  time  before  anything  coidd  i)e  got  to  serxc  the 
[>uri)osi'  of  a  stretcher,  but  at  last  llie  man  was  earrii-d 
home,  and  in  a  lew  days  lu'  recovered  from  the  eti'ects  of 
his  accident. 

l)uring  my  slay  at  I'oJu  sewral  donkey  loads  of 
delicious  grapes  and  peaches  were  brought  from  Kiria  by 
small  traders,  who  supplied  me  and  the  caravan  men  w  ith 
fruit  at  a  cheap  rate. 

When  the  Beg  heard  of  my  arrival  he  at  once  set  out 
from  Chaka  vvitii  a  present  of  fruit  h)r  nic  :  but  this 
olVicial  had  sought  to  obstruct  my  pi'ogress,  and  1  did  not 
feel  at  libeily  to  meet  his  advances.  l)i'clinnig  to  accept 
till!  fruit,  1  sent  back  word  by  his  servant  that  1  refused 
t(j  see  him,  and  would  let  him  know  when  it  would  be 
convenient  to  receive  his  visit,  but  that,  in  the  mean- 
time, I  I'xpected  that  he  Would  see  that  my  wants  wcri' 
-supplied. 

\\\  (  )ctober  MA  mine  days  attei-  my  arn\al  at  I'olui 
most  of  the  animals  had  recovered  their  strength  and  I 
resolved  to  resiune  my  joiu'ney.  The  Yuz  Hashi  having 
promised  to  house  atid  feed  Ninbu,  the  shepherd,  duiing 
the  winter,  I  left  him  to  look  after  the  sheep  at  Tolu,  and 
set  out  for  Chaka  with  tlu-  cai'avan.  It  was  my  intention 
to  (^xtH'Ute  some  survey  woi'k  at  that  place,  but  the  haze 
interfered.       KeaeliiiiL;    Khotan   on   ( )etober  '.)th,    1    loimd 


202     /X    TIBET  AND   ClllMiSli    riRKIiSrAN. 

ii;iju  liuTc  with  1  )albir  Kai,  who  was  in  bad  licallli.  Hajii 
had  heen  ordered  to  f^o  on  quickly  to  Yarkand  to  hiiy 
])onies,  hut  the  ("ho\A-I\u;m  had  detained  him  to  look  after 
Dalbir  Kai.  Alter  a  hiicf  i-cst  1  went  to  tlu>  Yanien  and 
requested  the  CIiow-Imimh  lo  send  (Hi  my  letters  to  the 
Magistrate  of  "^';irl<and,  iiitnrmiii;^  liim  of  my  purpose  to 
return  to  that  town.  The  Khot.in  dignitary  promised  to 
comply  with  my  reijuest,  and  my  anxiety  on  that  pomt 
was  set  at  rest. 

Returning  to  my  quarters,  T  was  visited  by  three  Pathan 
merchants  trading  with  India.  They  gave  me  details  of 
events  which  had  happened  at  \'aikand  since  my  depar- 
lui'e  from  that  town,  and  which  showeul  the  nature  of  the 
difticulties  with  which  trade  was  hampered  in  thatrc^gion. 
1  had  had  in  my  service  for-  a  few  months  a  man  named 
Kastam,  a  Ladaki,  who  had  asserted  (I  believe  with  truth) 
in  the  presence  of  Macartney  that  he  was  a  I  British 
subject.  This  man  had  dealings  with  some  Indian  ti'adc^rs 
and,  having  become  then' del)tor,  could  not,  or  would  not, 
make  pa\  nieiit .  The  traders  complained  to  INIacartney, 
who,  as  the  Chinese  ol'licials  in\'ariably  refused  to  take 
effective  action  in  sucli  cases,  took  the  law  into  his  own 
hands.  Seizing  J\astain"s  ))onies,  he  had  them  sold  by 
pul)lic  auction,  and  the  proceeds  lianded  over  to  tiie 
creditors  in  pari  payment  of  their  claims.  As  soon  as 
Macartney  left  \"arkan(l,  ivastam  took  his  case  to  the 
Chow-Kuan,  affirming  that  he  was  a  Chinese  subject,  and 
that  his  ponies  had  been  sold  for  much  less  than  their 
value.  I'lie  Chow -Kuan  orderc-d  tlie  purchasers  of  tlie 
ponies  to  hand  tliem  over  I'oi'  re-sale  at  the  next  njarket, 
abused  the  Indian  traders  for  having  had  recourse  to 
Macartney,  and  for  the  attention  and  courtesy  they  had 
shown  him,  and  forbade  them  to  welcome  him  or  any 
British  traveller  to  Yarkand.  Macartney  at  Kashgar  could 
not    undo   the    Chow-Kuan's  work,   but  on  his  return   to 


DILATORY  POST.  203 

Yarkand  some  months  later  he  demanded  the  fullest 
apologies  from  the  Chinese  magistrate.  The  Chow-Kuan 
came,  kotowed  to  him,  and  at  his  temporary  residence 
humbly  waited  his  convenience  for  the  discharge  of 
business.  Such  was  the  gist  of  the  news  I  received  at 
Khotan. 

The  next  ten  days  1  spent  in  travelling  to  Yarkand, 
about  '2'20  miles,  and  there  I  learned  that  my  letters  had 
only  just  arrived,  and  that  the  Chow-Kuan  himself  was 
absent.  On  foot,  I  had  performed  the  journey  iiioi-e 
quickly  than  the  Chinese  post. 


CHAL'TI-:!;  XI 11 

Preparations  at  Yarkand — Fouitli  attempt  to  explore  \alley  of 
Yarkand  River  —  Route  followed  —  Dentistry  —  The  Khundar 
]>a\van — Lyini;  Tajiks — AVaclia  or  Uchi— Reception  liy  l\Iin^' 
H.islii  and  headmen — Return  to  Goiubaz — Visit  from  Slier 
Mohammed  -Airy  tents — Measuring  bases — Fine  views  of  Muz 
Tagh  Ata — Its  height — Hard  work — Arrival  of  Ram  Singh — 
I-2rror  in  longitude  of  Gombaz — No  information  obtainable — 
Start  for  Mariong — Mariong — No  Pamir — False  information — 
Nosh  Tung — The  Yarkand  River — I^ing  natives — Steep  gravel 
slope — C'amj)  in  jungle  —  ISad  track — No  route. 

\  T  ^'arkuiul  .1  missed  the  cheerful  companionship  of 
-^-^  the  friends  with  whom  T  had  l)Ccome  aci|ii.iiiite(l  in 
the  spring;  even  Mr.  Jjackliind  had  gone.  l)i\  Josef 
Messrnr,  the  Persian  missionary,  was  still  here,  liowever, 
and  lie  heslowed  kind  attention  on  L'tani  Singh,  wIkj  liad 
nuieh  im})ro\ed  in  health  since  leaving  Kiria,  though  he 
still  suffered  from  an  enlarged  spleen.  1  had  applied  to 
the  IiKhan  Survey  Department  for  an  assistant  in  place 
of  Dalhir  liai,  and  had  been  promised  a  new  man,  Kam 
Singh,  who  was  now  on  the  way  to  join  me. 

After  a  few  days'  rest  I  gave  my  time  entirely  to  pre- 
paration for  the  winter  journey  into  Sarikol,  a  region 
about  which  T  knew  very  little.  The  caravan  men  were 
put  to  the  work  of  oiling  yak  dans,  repairing  pack  saddles, 
and  making  new  ones  for  the  ponies  and  donkeys  recently 
purchased.    I  laid  in  supplies  of  tloin%  rice,  salt,  tea,  ghee, 

spices,  and   (.for  my  own   use)  a  little  sugar  ;  horseshoes 

204 


/'A'/:/'.lA\l77(lVS    /Wv'    /(U'A'.V/n'.  205 

ami  nails  I  olitalned  also  in  siit'licicnt  (juaiuitifs.  Tlic 
various  stores  were  packed  in  b.af,'s  of  convenient  size, 
which  were  put  inside  larger  bags  of  oiled  canvas.  The 
parcels  of  all  descriptions  were  numbered,  weighed,  and 
entered  with  full  particulars  in  the  provisions  and  stores 


IYI'i:S    ()!•     Y\1!K\NI'I    WOjrKN. 


account  iiook.  Tlic  piittoo  ;ind  oilier  arliclcs.  ordered  in 
April  from  Ka^liimr.  had  not  ani\c(l,  and  it  was  neees- 
sarv  to  lit  out  the  men  witli  garnicuis  of  local  mamd'ac- 
ture.  I''ach  was  provided  with  a  slu'i'pskin  coat  and  cap. 
a  short  wai'm  coat  and  pNjamas  made  of  inferior  (doth, 
hut    doulilc,   and    witli   cotton    wool    liciwccii    ilic   folds,  a 


2o6    /.\'  rnurr  .ixd  ii/ix/is/i  /cR/</isr.\x. 

pair  ()l  j)L'[)iu-ks  or  iiiiiiinnli  ^l( ickiii<;s,  a  pair  of  I'liig 
cherooks  or  native  hoots,  and  a  pair  of  ,l;1ovc>s.  'I'lic  pi-c- 
parations  were  simple,  but  the  Oriental  propensity  to 
delay  made  it  necessary  for  me  to  liurry  and  hustle  to  ^et 
thinf,fs  ready  in  time.  15y  ado])tin;4-  this  method  1  iiad 
the  satisfaction  of  seeing  everything  complete  and  in 
order,  two  days  before  I  intended  to  begin  the  journey. 
In  bargaining  for  cash  in  exchange  for  bills  I  found  I  was 
no  match  for  the  Indian  traders.  A  siij)ply  of  small 
cliange  was  indis]i(Misable,  and  liitlieito  1  had  laid  no 
difficulty  in  finding  j)urc]iascr>  [^m-  large  rupee  notes. 
cheques,  and  hills  on  Indian  hanks.  Two  HincUis  agreed 
to  cash  a  draft  foi-  1.(100  I'upees  at  the  rat(^  of  O  tongas 
20  dachen  ])er  rupee,  l)ut  before  the  money  was  ])aid 
I'tam  Singh  told  me  he  could  have  got  7  tongas  2  dachen, 
and  1  found  several  traders  who  wen;  willing  to  accept 
this  rati'.  My  transaction  with  the  Hindus,  however, 
became  known,  and  all  other  offers  were  withdrawn,  so 
that  there  was  clearly  an  understanding  among  the  traders 
not  to  spoil  the  market  for  each  other. 

One  day  when  my  rooms  were  in  confusion  with  jiack- 
ing  operations,  and  when  T  was  setting  out  for  a  walk.  1 
received  an  intimation  that  the  Chow-Kuan  had  returned 
to  Yarkand  and  was  on  the  way  to  visit  me.  This  was, 
of  course,  intended  to  be  a  ceremonious  affair,  and  1  had 
to  hasten  back  to  my  (piarters,  order  Abdul  Karim  to  tidy 
my  room,  and  Dass  to  prepare  tea,  and  then  to  see  that  I 
myself  was  dressed  suitably  for  the  occasion.  While  I 
was  actually  putting  on  my  best  clothes  the  visitor  was 
announced,  and  I  had  to  hurry  to  the  courtyard  to  receive 
him,  buttoning  and  bowing  and  making  profuse  apologies 
for  my  unreadiness.  I  did  my  iiest  to  look  dignified,  but 
was  unsuccessful.  My  unbuttoned  smoking-jacket, 
knickerbockers  unfastened  at  the  knee,  braces  hanging 
loose  behind,  and  boots  unlaced,  amused  the  retainers  of 


rr.iM  s/xc/f.  209 

the  Chow-Kiuui,  wlio.  iicvcrlheless,  took  tin-  will  I'or  llir 
deed,  :iii<l.  on  (.lie  whole,  si'i'iiu'd  to  Jippreciatc  my  ct'torts 
to  )i}\v  hiiu  a  proper  ri'ception. 

To  take  Utaui  Sin^di  into  the  mounlaiiis  with  lue  was 
out  of  tlie  (juestioii.  and  as  he  bef(<^ed  for  leave  to  return 
to  Kashmir,  I  )b(ranted  his  re(]uest.  I  was  very  doul^tful 
whether  he  would  siu'vive  tlie  journey,  but  lie  was  keen 
t)n  ^'oin<,',  and  I  made  thini,'s  as  smooth  lor  him  as  I 
could.  Besides  funds  for  expenses  by  the  w:iy,  I  gave 
him  money  to  buy  a  ;food  riding  pony  and  to  purehase  a 
sha!-e  of  another  p(Miy  whieli  would  eai'ry  his  baggage  and 
that  of  Palbir  Hai.  Utam  Sinj^h  li.id  been  very  energetic 
and  cheerful  whiK-  in  good  health,  and  had  served  me 
faithfully  sinei-  Ajiril,  ISUC).  so  that  it  was  with  great 
regret  that  I  parted  with  him,  ns  he  mid  Hidbir  set  out 
together  on  the  route  by  the  'raghdundiasli  Tamil'  and 
(Jilgit. 

I  was  now  free  to  set  out  towards  tli«'  unknown  stretch 
of  the  Varkand  Kiver,  and  the  adjacent  region  between  the 
west  end  of  Kaskam  and  Kosarab.  After  nnich  considera- 
tion I  decided  to  travel  by  'I'akla.  the  Arpatalak  Pass, 
I -angar,  and  the  Kliaudai-  I'ass  to  the  uppir  ]iait  of  the 
W  ai-ha,  or  I'dn  valley.  One  of  my  men  had  crossi-d  the 
Khandar  Pass  the  |)receding  winter,  and  he  assui'i'd  me 
that  from  a  )»oint  in  its  nei^^hbomliood  the  'I'a^li  Ata 
coidd  be  seen.  I  was  an.xious  to  observi*  this  pi'ak  again, 
as  Colonel  W'ahab,  U.lv,  had  informed  me  that,  having 
observed  the  vertical  angle  in  \eiy  bad  \seatlier.  be  was 
doubtful  of  the  lu'igbt  of  the  mountain.  It  was  the  hope 
of  being  able  to  settle  all  doubt  (tli  ibis  (piestiou  that 
induced  me  to  choose  the  Khandar  Pass  route. 

My  new  assistant  bad  not  reached  me  by  the  tunc  I 
was  ready  to  set  out,  and  to  save  time  and  trouble  1 
despatched  Islam  dnvct  to  Tashkurghan  to  meet  him.  and 
bring  him  to  my  canij)   in   the  NN'acha  vall«\.      This  oi'der 

15 


2IO   Av-z//>7:'7'  .i.y/)  c7//.y/-:s/i  re  rk  est  ax. 

may  to  the  readier  setMii  vafjiu\  l)iit  there  was  only  one 
direct  route  from  Yarkand  to  Tashkurfjlian,  and  from  that 
plaee  I^lalll  wduld  easily  be  able  to  liiid  my  position  on 
the  west  side  of  tli(^  Kliandar  Pass.  In  that  region, 
seldom  visittnl  by  Europeans,  tlic  movements  of  any 
British  traveller  are  well  known,  and  the  tidings  of  his 
advance  precede  him.  In  order  to  avoid  delay  on  my 
return  to  Yarkand,  I  arranged  that  Kaju  should  remain 
l)ehin(l  to  buy  ]X)nies  for  the  sunnner  journey  into  Tibet, 
animals  suitable  for  travelling  in  that  country  being 
dit'ticult  to  find  ;  and  I  engaged  a  native  of  Y'arkand, 
r>Iobannued  Yoo  byname,  to  accompany  me  as  temporary 
caravan  baslii. 

On  November  8rd  I  set  out,  and  on  reaching  Takla,  tlie 
last  large  village  where  supplies  could  be  obtained,  I 
added  700  lbs.  of  Indian  corn  and  400  lbs.  of  flour  to  my 
stock.  As  our  march  was  to  be  over  ground  not  only 
new  to  me,  but  apparently  unknown  to  others,  I  had  no 
idea  how  long  the  journey  wcnild  take,  and  it  seemed 
prudent  to  lay  in  as  abundant  supplies  as  our  sacks  could 
hold  and  our  animals  carry. 

As  I  went  on,  I  picked  u[)  news  of  the  retribution  with 
which  the  end)e//.ling  \\\a  J^)ashi  of  Oshbeldu  had  been 
visited.  Tidings  (jf  his  misdeeds  liad  reached  the  ears 
of  tin;  Chow-Kuan  of  Yarkand,  who  promptly  liad  the 
otfender  whacked  and  then  dismissed  from  office. 

After  a  monotonous  journey  I  reached  Langar  on 
Kovember  Hth,  and  found  some  difficulty  in  crossing  the 
river.  The  temperature  was  still  so  high  that  the  water 
was  (juite  fi'ce  from  ice,  and  tliough  there  was  a  ford  a 
little  above  the  village,  it  was  so  deep  that  all  the  animals 
had  to  swim  across.  The  Beg  of  Sarikol,  who  spends 
part  of  the  year  at  Tashkurghan  and  tlie  remainder  at 
Tung,  a  few  miles  from  the  Yarkand  Kiver,  kindly  sent 
some  of  his  camels  to  carry  the  baggage  across.     The 


n/':x'/7s//<v.  213 

water,  thou«^li  fifc  tVom  it-c,  wiis  icy  i-old,  iiiid.  thai  the 
camels  iui<,'ht  siitTcr  less  ;ift(r  i-.|ii;itt(lly  crossiii*,'  and  re- 
cr()ssin«,',  it  was  necessary  tn  delay  oix-rations  till  the  sun 
had  nioinited  the  sky.  The  He^'  not  only  provided  camels, 
hut  sent  his  chief  assistant  with  them  to  conduct  me 
across  the  lord.  This  i^uide  would  havi'  had  to  rccross 
the  river  on  the  hack  of  a  pony,  hut  1  was  ahlc  to  dispense 
with  his  ^'uidance,  and  thus  spare  the  faithful  henchman 
a  wetting.  As  soon  as  1  had  crossed  the  river,  the  lie«^ 
welcomed  me  into  his  district,  and  invited  me  to  spend 
tlje  ni^'ht  at  his  house.  The  ma^Mstrat(>'s  ahode  I  found 
to  he  a  roomy,  conilorlaiile,  .ukI  well-lmih  house,  l-jiter- 
in<,'  my  room,  h«'  took  a  kneeiiuj^f  and  ai>i»arently  uncom- 
foriahle  ))osturi'.  in  which  he  continued  while  he  kvyti  me 
company  in  (h-inkin^'  tea  and  eatinj.;  chapatties.  In  the 
villa>,'e  the  caravan  men  talked  fn-ely  of  my  skill  in  di-n- 
tistrv,  and  here,  as  elsi'whei<',  sufferers  from  toothache 
came  to  me  for  relief. 

At  Kahhut  we  spent  a  ni^dit  at  an  ''  unj.jur  "  (or  shelter) 
formed  i)y  a  hu^'e  houlder  leaning'  a^^ainst  the  cliff  on  the 
h'ft  i>ank  of  the  sti'cam.  A  small  I'uhhle  wall,  ahout  live 
feet  iii^di.  improved  the  shelter,  hut  the  place  was  still 
exposed  to  wind  hlowiii;^'  dt»wn  the  valley. 

The  u[>per  [lortion  of  the  ascent  to  the  Khandar  I'ass 
was  very  steep  and  stony,  hut  wf  hail  taken  the  pi-ecau- 
tion  of  relieving' all  thedonke\sof  their  loads,  and  li^diteii- 
in^'  the  hurdeiis  of  the  ponies.  I\ven  so.  these  animals 
had  to  he  helped  over  one  or  two  very  rocky  places,  and 
the  loaded  \aks,  careful  and  suie-footed  thou^di  they 
w<'!-e.  had  a  j,'ood  deal  of  ditViculty  in  scalin;^  the  asi-ent. 
liut.  on  the  whole.  We  found  that  (han^^fuuchuk.  in  his 
descriptions  of  the  ground,  had  j^rossly  exa»^<jerated  its 
dnuf^ers.  'i"he  descent  was  easy,  and  as  we  proceeded 
the  i,Miide.  apparently  for  the  purpose  of  amusing'  himself 
anil  nie,  jtouifil  forth  a  lon;^  series  of  fi>olish  lies.     Turn- 


J 14    rv  riiuir  Axn  ciiixusr.  rcRKi-.s iwx. 

iii^  to  ;iiniilu'i-  Tajik,  I  asked  if  his  whole  race  were  liars, 
and  he.  with  a  solciiiii  face,  iiphcd  that  they  were,  a 
reinarkahK'  tnilhl'iil  siatciiiciit  tn  ('(.iiic  IVnin  the  lips  of  a 
Tajik. 

The  ascent  and  descent  look  us  ei^hl  hours  and  a  halt', 
and  it  w:is  a  little  alter  four  o'clitck  when  we  reached 
(ronihaz,  or,  as  the  })e()ple  on  the  east  side  name  the  ])lace, 
Mazar.  There  we  foinid  a  small.  dome-shai)ed  structure, 
consistin^f  of  a  sinf,de  room,  and  beside  it  was  a  small 
enclosure  for  cattle  or  sheep.  Soon  after  my  ari-ival  1 
received  the  disappoiiitin<j^  news  from  Tashkurf,dian  that 
Kam  Sin^h  liad  not  waited  lor  the  arri\al  of  Islam,  hut 
had  set  ont  for  Yarkand.  Ahoiit  dusk  the  Ming  Bashi 
(Head  of  1 .()()()),  attended  hy  sev<'ral  men.  cami'  ii])  the 
valley  with  fuel,  foi-a^c,  and  a  tent.  The  teiil  wc  lil'l 
unused.  ;ind  I  found  shelter  in  the  "  ^omha/.."'  the 
entrance  to  which  was  sucdi  that  1  had  to  crawl  in  on  all 
fours,  and  have  my  food  passed  in  as  if  to  a  wild  ainmal  in 
his  den.  The  nifj^ht  was  cold  and  comfortless,  and  1  ui-^cd 
the  Uchi  men  to  return  to  their  homes,  hut  they  remained 
with  me,  sayiii^^  that  they  were  used  to  the  cold,  and  that 
the\'  meant  to  escoit  ine  to  theii-  villa^^i'  in  the  nioiniiiL;. 
They  coiled  themselves  u])  outside  the  "  gonil)a//"  and 
slept  soundly  till  daylight,  when  we  set  out  to<,a'thei-. 
Their  com|)any  was  not  clieeriuL:  :  my  presence  put  a 
restraint  upon  them,  and  theirs  upon  me.  They  disliked 
walking,  which  I  much  preferred  to  liding  in  such  circum- 
stances, so  f  asked  them  to  go  on  ahead  and  set;  that 
things  were  ready  in  the  village.  The  man  h  was  short 
and  easy,  and  at  its  conclusion  wc  found  such  comforts  as 
could  reasonably  be  looked  for.  In  a  field,  close  to  the 
Tiling  Bashi's  house,  two  old  tents  were  pitched,  one  for 
me  and  the  other  for  Dass  and  Alidul  K'niim.  while  for 
the  caravan  men  there  was  reserxcd  a  hot,  stuffy  room 
such  a-i  they  loved  to  occupy. 


k'ffCR.lk'.  2\7 

This  villa;,'!',  about  half  a  mile  rroin  Viw  point  w  here  the 
track  to  Taslikurtrhan  loaves  the  valley,  is  called  Khiirak. 
The  whole  of  the  valley  is  coiniiionly  known  as  Waclia  hy 
the  Tajiks,  l)ut  is  called  Uchi  hy  thos(>  who  speak  Turki. 
l^'or  a  h'W  miles  almve  and  helow  K'hurak  the  valley  is 
mostly  cidtivaled,  l)Ut  trees  are  wantil),l,^  and  on  the 
nei^dibouriiif,'  mountains  there  is  no  vej^^etation  whatevei-. 
While  daylifjlit  lasted  the  tents  were  beset  by  a  crowd  ol 
vilhi^'crs  eaj^'er  to  f,'et  a  j^dimpse  of  the  strangers.  Thouj^di 
tliey  talked  and  «,Mjssiped  together,  their  presence  caused 
no  inconvenif^nce,  ])ut  the  noise  of  the  barking  and  fight- 
ing dogs  which  acc()m])anied  them  was  a  great  nuisance. 
Finding  no  ground  at  Khurak  suitable  for  triangulation 
purposes.  1  returned  to  (rond)a/.  The  two  tents  with 
which  the  villagers  supplied  us  were  so  old  and  ragged 
that,  the  mininumi  theiinometer  which  hung  close  to  my 
head  always  showe<l  a  temperature  within  '1°  V .  of  that  in 
the  open  air.  These  tents,  however.  had  this  advantage 
over  mine,  that  one  could  light  a  fire  inside  them.  Abdul 
Karim  and  Dass  burned  boortza  and  dung  on  the  ground, 
while  I  used  a  small  portable  stove,  which  served  its  pur- 
pose well,  its  only  drawback  being  the  shortness  of  the 
Hue.  This  defect  was  i(>medied  hy  setting  two  boxes 
under  the  stove,  from  wliicli  the  upper  was  sejiarated  by 
a  laver  of  stones  and  earth.  iSut  lor  this  luxury  \\  woidil 
have  been  impossible  to  write  aftt'i'  dark,  as  the  nii< 
rapidly  fi'o/e  when  at  a  distance  from  the  lii"e.  The 
alternations  of  tem|ierature  by  day  and  ni^lit  caU'^ed 
annoyance.  At  night  ink  and  other  li(puds  fro/.i'  and 
biu'st  the  bottles,  and  during  the  day  the  melting  sul)- 
stances  streamed  out,  soiling  and  damaging  whatever  tlu-y 
touche<l.  A  little  experience  taught  us  nevi'r  to  fill  bottles, 
but  to  l(>ave  I'oom  for  expansion.  .V[)art  fi"om  this  pi-ecau- 
tion,  vulcanitt'  burst  as  readily  as  glass. 

h'rom   the   hill  station,  about    1.').140  h-et   high,  almost 


:iS     /.\-    IllUiT   AXn    CIIIM-.Sli    IT l< K liST A M 

(hie  east  ol  Cioiiiba/,  i  wax  al>le  to  idtiilily  some  of  the 
peaks  observed  the  previous  winter  fiom  the  west  end  of 
Haskani.  as  well  as  Muz  Ta^^h  Ala,  ami  amiilici-  very 
l)roniinent  ]>cak  tixivl  hy  the  Paiuir  Koiiiidary  (dnmiission. 
I  s[H'nt  a  whole  day  in  tiyin^'  to  observe  the  Kaskani  jx'aks 
fmiii  a  station  on  llic  opposite  side  of  the  valli-y.  After 
struL^^lin^f  tlii'ou^h  many  dit'tieidties  I  reached,  about 
I  [).m..  a  i)osition  which  a))peai"ed  suitable,  and  had  the 
theodolite  unpacked  and  set  u|).  hut.  to  niy  intense  annoy- 
ance, I  found  it  impossihle  to  distin^niish  the  ])illar  1  had 
erected  at  the  first  station.  The  ma^Mietic  bearing  of  this 
pillar  I  did  not  know,  and  its  colour  was  so  similar  to  that 
of  the  mountain-side  win  re  it  stood,  that  my  ])rolon<,'ed 
efforts  to  identify  the  sjfot  were  unsuccessful.  It  was 
with  vexation  thai  1  packed  up  the  iiisiruiueul'-.  hun;..; 
tliem  over  the  back  of  the  yak.  and  hurried  towards  the 
camp,  which  I  (hd  not  reach  till  lon^^  after  dark.  1  meant 
to  resume  the  search  next  day,  but  was  ])i-eveiited  by  a 
fall  of  snow,  and  had  to  content  myself  with  a  lowei'  site, 
from  which  I  had  a  ^ood  view  of  Muz  Ta^h  Ata,  ahout 
sixty  miles  distant.  The  bases  at  the  camp  formed  an 
equilateral  trian^de  with  sides  ahout  six  miles  lon;^.  and 
by  nu'ans  of  observations  takiii  fi'om  the  three  an<,Mdar 
}KMnts.  two  values  weri'  ohtained  \^iy  the  liei;,dit  of  this 
majestic  mountain.  -Jhld-i  feet  and  -JLlO.)  feel,  which 
aj^reed  very  closely  with  the  •J4,H<S()  feet  obtained  the 
]>revious  winter  from  a  station  near  Mazar  Sultan.  These 
)-esults  bein^'  considered  satisfactory,  the  Superintendent 
of  the  Tri^fonometrical  l>rancli  of  the  Survey  of  India 
deteiMuined  to  acce|>l  'J  I.  100  feet  as  the  hei^dil  of  ^fu/  Tai^Ii 
Ata. 

At  this  camp  I  anxiously  looked  for  the  ari'i\al  of  Kani 
Sin<,di.  Islam,  who  had  been  sent  from  Yarkand  to  meet 
hnn,  had  fallen  ill,  aiul  had  been  unable  to  intercept  him 
and   shorten  his  journey.     1    sent  a  party  of  men  with 


J  A7v7 /".//.    ()/■"   A'./.]/    S/XC/f.  2\ij 

Viiks  to  J\ulil>ut  to  hriii^f  liis  lu^'fjajre  across  the  i):iss,  Imt 
these  men  soon  consuiued  tlirir  supplies  and  rclurnc*!  to 
the  camp.  A  second  party  succeeded,  and  Ham  Sin^di 
arrived  wlien  I  had  nearly  completed  my  observations,  for 
the  determination  of  the  hei^dirs  and  positions  of  the 
l)iinci))al  ))eal\s  within  mv  ran^'e  of  vision.  He  had  had  a 
necdles.sjy  joii^'  journey,  hut  after  a  (hiy's  rest  at  (lond)a/. 
lie  set  to  work.  My  ohscivin«,f  station  was  at  a  spot  a 
few  scori'  feet  ahove  the  dome-shaped  structure,  on  fairly 
Nn-el  «,'round.  The  altitude  was  \'1:1'M)  feet  ;  the  position 
was  in  .'{7"  -Vl  ■')'.»  north  hititude.  and  T-V'  h")  .")(*)'  east 
jon^'itude.  The  lon»i[itude  assi^Mud  was  ohtained  hy 
trian^Milation  from  p(\iks  fixed  hy  the  I'amir  Pxinndary 
Conmiission.  The  pi-ohal»le  eri"or  in  lon^ntude  does  not 
exceed  a  few  si'con<ls  of  are. 

.\t  (lomha/,  I  was  visited  hy  Munshi  Slur  ^^ollannned. 
who  was  stationed  at  Tashkur^han,  wliere  he  looked  after 
Macartney's  fortnij,ditly  post  between  (Til«,fit  and  Kasii^'ar. 
His  visit  in  itself  was  welcome:  the  present  of  hit  fowls 
which  he  hrou;,dit  with  him  was  most  acce[)tal)le.  and  the 
information  he  ;,'ave  me  eoneernin^'  tlu^  people  hy  whom  1 
was  surrounded  was  full  of  intei-est.  I  I'oimd  hin;  an 
intelli«,'ent  and  instructive  companion,  and  through  him  I 
suhse(pu'ntly  ohtained.  also,  some  inhirmation  ahout  the 
inhahitants  of  ihc  MarioUL;  country  iwrou^ly  called  the 
Mariom  Tamir), 

To  my  i-e^ret  I  wa>  unai)le  to  learn  anythinj.^  concern- 
in;,'  the  route  or  routes  leadin;^  to\\;ii(U  Kaskam  or  out  of 
Marion;,',  heyoiid  which  I  was  at  a  loss  how  to  ])roci'ed. 
The  country  seemed  to  he  an  unknown  land,  l>ul  prohahlv 
tlie  i;,'norance  which  e\ery  one  |»rofessed  was  assuniecl  in 
ol)e(hence  to  ollicial  instructions.  The  otVicial  method 
was  to  oh->lruct  hy  w  ithholdin;,'  assistance  and  infornui- 
tion,  hut    I    resolved   lo   tind    out    h>i-  myself   what   otluM's 

would    not     reveal.       That     thiTc    were    routes     I     had     little 


220    /x  rii>i-:r  .\xn  ciiiMisn  i iKKHsr.w. 

doubt,  and  1  rrsiilvcd  ti)  enter   Marion^'  by  one  i»»ul»'  and 
leave  it  1)\   aiiutbei*. 

()ii  N()\('iiiber  "Jstb  I  returned  Id  Kbui-ak.  wbeic  I 
obtained  l)arleyainl  ^diee,  but  no  tlnur.  'I'beiiee  J  went  bv 
tlie  Tlion^'  or  Tbon^'al  Tass  d  I.OdO  feet  bi^di)  to  Marion^'. 
The  ascent  to  ibe  pass  was  easy,  and  tbe  descent  on  the 
south,  tliou^^b  stei'p,  was  practieable  for  laden  animals. 
Marion^'  villaj.'i'  1  found  to  consist  of  a  few  bouses  at  the 
mouth  of  a  narrow  \alley  leading'  fnun  tbi  1  Imnj,'  Pass. 
Hero  the  son  of  tli<'  Min^'  Haslii,  representing^  his  father, 
who  was  ill,  came  with  severalother  men  from  Nosh 
Tuui,'  to  meet  me,  ;ind  they  escorted  me  to  a  lai'fje  and 
well-built  house.  1  was  the  first  European  wlm  bad  ever 
penetrated  into  this  valley,  and  this  fact  added  /est  to  my 
enjoyment  of  the  enterprise.  W'liile  waiting'  for  the 
arrival  yA  my  little  cai'avan  1  noticed  showers  of  stones 
falling'  down  a  ni'ij,dd)oui-in^'  ])recipice.  Ijookin^f  hi{:iiier, 
1  saw  a  lar^'e  herd  of  ibex,  all  small-beaded,  pa'ssin^^  alon*,' 
at  a  leisurely  pace,  wbiili  I  bey  (piickened  to  a  run  when  1 
disehar<,'ed  my  carbine!  amon^'  them.  I  had  often  seen 
ibex  on  steep  places  in  tlu'  Himalayas,  but  the  easy  con- 
fidence with  which  tlx'se  animals  passed  alon«,'  the  face  of 
crafjs  and  ])reci{)ices  apjiai'eiitly  presi-ntin^'  no  foothold 
quit<'  astonislied  me. 

The  continued  reluctance  of  the  people  (o  L!ive  any 
infoi-matioii  concei-niuf;  the  counti-y  ^\as  xery  vexatious. 
The  MiuL,'  |->ashi's  son  would  not  allow  that  there  was 
anv  route  leading  towards  Kaskam,  and  even  as  to  the 
position  of  Nosh  Tmi^f,  the  lai'^'est  villa«,'e  in  the  ^^arioll<,f 
eoimtry,  the  statements  conflicted.  At  oiu-  time  I  was 
told  it  was  distant  one  day's  journey  ;  at  another  it  was 
three,  and  at  another  two,  but,  fortiuiately  as  it  seemed, 
all  arjreed  tliat  tlie  villa^^e  stood  at  the  junction  of  the 
Mainonj;  and  ^'al•kand  Rivers.  1  continued  my  journey 
down    the    luirrow    Marion^'    valley,  which    was  inhabited 


.\'().s7/  /ywy;. 


2'>  \ 


;iii<l  ciiltivalcd  wlnrcv ti-  ciiltivalilf.  TIh-  slmrt  slul)l)les 
iirtonh'd  ft'cdin^'  U>v  iii;iiiy  coveys  of  chicoiv,  wliich  Dass 
iiiul  Alxliil  Karim  stiilkcd  with  V(<iv  fair  succt'ss.  The 
valU'V  woiiiitl  al>()iit  a  <^(uu]  deal.  l>ul  llic  loiitc  as  far  as 
X(»sli  'I'lm^'  was  <^iuH\.  ilaviii};  set  out  at  (laybrt-ak,  I 
jfaclM'tl  this  villa;,'*'  ahoiil  four  o'rlock  in  the  afternoon, 
hut  I  kiu'W  not  that  it  was  Nosh  'J'un^'.  In  and  ahoiit  it 
there    was    a    fair     s|n-inklinL:     <>f    aprieot-trccs.    hut    tlir 


S  V  M\  I       lll.\l  K>>MI  I  II. 


iiitereHtin;,'  fact  was  that  the  \dla;4("  liid  not  stand  at  tlu- 
junction  of  the  Marion^  and  N  arkand  Kivcis.  Tlic  Min^' 
Hashi.  with  eves  nnich  inllained,  lainr  nut  with  other 
mm  ti>  meet  me.  and  invited  me  to  his  house,  hut  I 
declined  to  halt.  'I'hcy  hc;,'i:cd  mc  not  to  ;^o  forward, 
and  when  I  still  wi-nt  on,  the  Min;.,'  Hashi  and  another 
man  ran  on  ahead  for  a  few  yards,  then,  suddenly  turn- 
iui,'.    dropped    oil   tlinr   kiiccs   and   haviiij,'    hrou;,'ht    their 


222     /X    '/7 />'/■: T   ,IX/)    C7//X/-:.S/:     TCNKI-'.STAX. 

heiids  to  the  f^frouiid  miplnii'd  im-  ndi  to  pass  tluii-  \ilhi<,a'. 
Tliev  assured  me  that  the  road  was  had,  the  iidial)itants 
few.  and  supphes  ahnost  iiiipossiljlc  to  ohtain.  I  tohi 
them  that  1  was  f,'oiiir,'  to  Nosh  Tmii(  at  the  junelion  of 
the  Mariong  and  Yarkand  Rivers,  and  hurried  past  tliem 
as  they  asserted  that  this  was  Nosh  Tunp.  1  liad  gone 
some  distance  and  was  out  of  sight  of  the  villagers  wlien 
I  found  that  I  must  wait  for  the  earavaji.  So  slow  had 
been  the  progress  of  the  aiiimaK  thai,  in  sjiitc  of  ni\- 
resolution  to  proceed,  1  had  to  go  hack  and  spend  the 
night  at  the  village.  This,  on  the  whole,  was  fortunate, 
for,  as  I  afterwards  found,  the  track  leading  down  the 
valley  was  had.  in  some  jiiaees  so  had  as  to  he  (piite 
impassable  in  the  daik. 

Having  made  the  usual  astroiKjniieal  observations,  I 
renewed  \n\  efiort  to  elicit  information  concerning  routes 
towards  i\askam,  but  again  I  failed,  every  one  asserting 
that  there  were  none.  Then  I  informed  the  Ming  J^ashi 
that  I  was  not  to  be  battled,  but  that  I  slioidd  remain  at 
till-  village  and  draw  on  its  inhabitants  foi'  supplies,  fuel, 
and  forage  till  I  saw  my  way  to  success.  In  the  morning, 
J\am  Singh  ascended  a  commanding  peak  a  littli'  above 
the  Saigon  Pass,  and  obtained  a  wide  view,  including 
many  points  which  had  been  fixed  l)y  me.  Accompanied 
by  Abdul  Karim  and  on<'  of  the  caravan  men,  who  looked 
after  thi'  pony  carrying  the  theodolite,  I  descended  the 
valley  to  its  junction  with  that  of  the  Yarkand  liiver.  A 
little  below  the  village  we  passed  a  hot  spring,  the 
temperature  of  whicli  was  over  180'^  V .,  above  which  point 
my  thermometer  was  not  graduated.  13elow  the  springs 
tlie  valley  narrowed  almost  t(j  a  g<jrge  with  steep,  Ijarren 
mountains  rising  on  either  hand.  The  river  was  in  some 
places  half  fro/en  :  near  its  mouth,  on  both  bank,s,  stood 
trees,  apyjarently  half  dead  ;  altogether  the  country  had 
a   dismal    look.      A   little   furtlier  on   the   wide  and   now 


J  sri:i-:r  cr.wei.  si.ori:.  223 

(•l«.'ar  hluc  Vaikiind  l\ivt  r  turiud  >li;ui>ly  lo  the  east,  bend- 
in^',  as  I  subsequently  ascertained,  in  sucli  a  manner  that 
it  flows  for  several  miles  in  nearly  parallel  stretches  not 
far  distant  from  each  other.  The  valley  was  here  very 
narrow.  iKiundtMl  by  the  l(ii't\,  ru^'^'ed  and  l)arriii  iiiinin- 
tains  characteristic  <>l  the  re^^ion.  and  the  way  was 
completely  barred  by  a  perfectly  vertical  tditl".  Lookin<^' 
up  the  \  arkand  \alley,  I  noticed  ;i  very  narrow  tra(d< 
leadine  across  a  sti'cp  ^'ravel  slope  a  <,'ood  hei^dit  above 
the  river.  Whether  this  track  was  formed  by  men  or 
animals  I  c(juld  not  guess,  but  in  either  case  its  course 
was  worth  investigating,  and  I  sent  Abdul  Karim  hn-ward 
t(j  ascertain  whether  it  was  stich  as  could  be  travelled 
over  by  lightly-laden  ponies.  While  .Vbdul  was  investi- 
gating I  set  up  the  theodoliti'  and  made  some  useful 
ol)servations.  At  m'ght.  with  Aixlul  n'cording.  [  fixed 
astronomically  the  latitude  aiul  longitude  of  this  spot,  the 
most  westerly  point  in  the  couise  of  the  rivt  r.  .VbduTs 
re[)ort  liaving  been  favourable.  I  ri'solved  to  follow  his 
footsteps  next  morning  with  a  few  jionies,  and  with,  pro- 
visions and  coin  sulVieiciit  to  |;isl  for  thi'ce  or  four  days. 
It  might  \w  necessary  t(»  iross  the  \'arkand  Kivi'i-.  whi(  h. 
even  in  shallow  places,  was  considered  too  lU'cp  for  ladi-n 
p(jnies  :  anil,  for  the  purpose  of  transporting  the  baggage, 
the  Ming  l>ashi  was  iiuhieed  to  supply  nie  with  two 
camels.  { )f  the  two  canuhuen  sent  with  tlu-m,  howi'Ver. 
one  was  ii  stranger  to  the  neighboinh(»od  and  the  other 
was  an  idiot. 

After  we  enu-rged  from  the  Mariong  valley  the  lust 
ohstatde  was  the  grav(d  slojie  aln-ady  menlioiu-d,  which, 
tliough  steep,  did  not  stop  the  advance  of  the  laden 
aninuils.  The  breadth  of  the  track,  which  at  first  was 
but  a  few  inciies,  was  widened  by  the  triad  of  each  jxtnv, 
and.  though  the  ini[>rovement  was  of  siiort  duration  owing 
to  the   slipping  down  of  more   gravel,  neither  nerve   nor 


224   fy  Tinr/r    ixn  r///\/:s/-:  /['/</</■  s tan. 

head  of  man  or  pony  was  ovcrlaxrd.  Tlic  di'scfiit  on  the 
south  side  was  so  steep  that  all  the  animals  had  to  he 
unloaded  and  the  haj^^'a^'e  earned  (hnvn  hy  tin-  men.  while 
the  ponies,  with  some  assistance,  crawled  and  slid  down 
the  slope.  The  camels,  hein^  quite  unequal  to  the  lahoui' 
of  erossing  the  gravel  s]o]><'.  wiic  made  to  hjrd  tlif  liver, 
and  rejoined  me  lurthcr  on.  The  same  camelman  here 
infonned  me  that  he  was  a  stranger  in  these  parts,  hut 
had  heard  that  beyond  the  tirst  small  side-valley,  in  which 
there  was  a  stream,  grass  was  nowhere  to  be  foimd.  The 
general  appearance  of  the  country  tended  to  confirm  this 
statement,  and  I  resolved  to  accept  it  as  true  In  the 
side-valley  there  was  a  stream,  now  frozen  over  with 
slippery  ice,  which  the  baggage  ponies  had  no  little 
trouble  in  crossing,  and  a  few  score  yards  up  this  valUy 
there  was  a  spot  large  enough,  when  eleared  and  levelled, 
to  accommodate  two  small  tents  i)itched  close  together. 
\\'hen  the  ponies  were  freed  from  their  loads  they  set 
oiU  in  search  of  fodder,  and,  after  forcing  theii'  way  with 
difheulty  through  dense  jungle,  they  found  sonje  tall, 
coarse  kamish  grass  containing  little  nf)urishment.  Ivirly 
in  the  moi'iiing  we  were  again  on  the  march,  Kani  Singh 
and  I  going  ahead  of  the  caravan  to  I'cconnoitre  beyond 
the  point  whieh  Abdul  had  reached.  1^'or  some  distance 
we  had  no  diniculty  in  advancing,  but  at  one  place;  the 
route  was  almost  im])assable.  The  river  was  too  deep  to 
ford  and  the  ice  was  too  thin  to  bear  the  weight  of  the 
ponies,  while,  on  the  left  baid<  where  we  were  travelling, 
the  rocky  mountain-side  was  so  steep  that  all  the  loads 
had  to  be  carried  for  abijut  two  hundred  yards  by  the  men, 
who  had  also  to  help  the  ponies  across  the  steep  and 
slippery  incline.  A  little  beyond  this  place  we  passed 
through  some  abandoned  fields  in  which  there  was  a 
peculiar  tower,  probably  a  former  watch-tower,  built  of 
rubble  on  the  top  of  a  huge   boulder.     The  name  of  this 


c.i.ui'  /.y  /r.w; /./:'.     I  225 

s))()t  was  said  to  l)c  iWi  Kujcral).  Lookiii;^^  u]i  tlic  valley 
we  saw,  in  tin*  t'orc^^Mound,  only  sand,  stoiu's,  jilgan,* 
chekiindo,  ^  and  some  halt-dead  trees,  wliile  further 
on,  tlie  lofty,  vortieal  cliffs  seemed  to  draw  closer 
together  and  completely  har  our  way.  At  the  foot  oi 
the  cliffs  ran  the  stream  too  deej)  to  ford  and  too  thinly 
frozen  to  hear  even  a  liglit  man's  weifjht.  Heside  us  not 
a  l)lade  of  f(rass  was  to  he  found,  tliou^di  the  hungry 
animals  searched  (hligently.  Sonam,  with  one  of  the 
camelmen  and  hoth  the  camels,  went  to  look  for  a  ford, 
while  Ham  Singh  and  1  examined  tlie  steep  left  hank  in 
the  hope  of  linding  some  place  where  the  rocks  could  he 
scaled  hy  men.  Sonam  found  a  ford,  l)ut  it  was  useless, 
for  heyond  it  the  deep  rivci'  tilled  the  gorge  from  the  one 
vertical  rock  to  the  other  so  that  progress  was  impossihle. 
l)ivi(hng  the  harley  and  Indian  corn  into  two  feeds,  one 
for  the  evening  and  the  other  for  thi'  next  morning,  we 
resolved  to  spend  the  nt'Xt  day  in  ictuining  to  Nosh  Tung. 
That  night  we  tried  to  keep  our  s})ints  up  hy  the  cheery 
glow  <»f  large  camp  fires  of  dry  wood,  which  lay  ahout  in 
ahundance.  But  the  circumstances  were  depressing,  and 
I  felt  the  dissatisfaction  caused  by  failure  even  though 
only  temporary.  The  position  of  this  camp  (No.  1'2()),  as 
determined  astronomically,  was  oidy  ahout  ti-n  miles  from 
my  goal,  and  yet  I  had  to  tuiii  hack. 

Kam  Singh  was  hopefid  of  tinding  some  aci-essihie  and 
connnanding  hill  to  scale  on  the  h>llowing  morning.  I 
strictly  enjoined  him  to  incui  no  serious  risk  in  the  enter- 
j)rise,  hut  at  the  same  time  arranged  that  one  day's  supplies, 
and  also  extra  clothin^^  foi'  the  night,  should  he  left  for 
him  and  anotlu-r  man   at   the  tower   of    I'.ii    Knjerah. 

.\  kind  of  timiaiisli. 
'    Ctilliifoiiioii  /)i<lififi>n('iil<s.     Tliis  is  lar^fl\  ust-d  for  iKlviitcnilm;; 
tlio  tobacco  clicwcd  In   natives.     It  is  a  nortli -easterly  extension  of 
wliat    had   been    liitlieito  lect'ived  oidy   from    Kfiypl.    Syria.    Persia, 
runjal)  and  Scinde. 

I6 


CHAi'Ti:i(    XI \- 

Descrijition  of  valley — Heijn;ht  of  mountains — Return  to  Nosli  Tun<^ 
—  riirinj^  vaks— The  Sarfi;on  Pass — Dangerous  descent — I'ichan- 
yart — (Jronibchefskv's  route — Fi'ozen  rivers — Jungle — Shaina- 
tagle — Difficulty  of  obser\ing — Tlie  Tugadir  Pass — Awful  track 
— Meeting  with  Pil  men — Dangerous  corner — Pil — No  petro- 
leum— Suspicions  about  me  —Unable  to  descend  the  valley — 
Arrival  of  supplies — Uon-owing  more  money — Departure  from 
Pil  Chadder  Tash — Accident  to  donkey — "Drop"  on  track 
Anxiety  about  animals — Slow  march — Pilipert. 

A  S  WO  retraced  our  steps  next  day  \sc  sultered  con- 
-^^  siderable  inconvenience  from  tlie  vaf,'aries  of  Jack 
Frost.  The  Maiion^'  liivcr,  three  days  before,  had  been 
easily  fordal)le  at  a  point  wliere  now  the  water  was 
danuned  up  by  ice.  The  ponies  could  not  wade  across, 
and,  as  the  water  was  cold  and  even  frozen  over  with 
thin  ice,  the  camels  would  n(jt  do  so  until  force  was  used. 
Fortunately,  we  found,  lower  down,  a  ford  which,  thou^di 
awkwardly  situated,  was  not  impassable.  We  had  to 
clear  a  path  to  it  throu<,di  high  jungle;  on  the  up-stream 
side  was  a  deep  hole  which  seemed  to  have  a  strange 
power  of  attracting  the  ponies,  while  on  the  down- 
stream side  rocks  abounded.  The  ponies  were  afraid 
to  attempt  the  passage,  and  gave  nnich  trouble,  especially 
one,  which  when  half  across  turned  and  made  direct  for 
the  deep  hole.  J  tried  to  ]iul  him  right  by  throwing 
stones,    but.    unluckily    hitting    him    on    the    forehead. 


noRRiui'/xc  .][(K\ /■:)'.  227 

hroiif^'lit  liiin  duuii,  iUitl  with  him  his  lidt-r  (iiitl';ir,  ii 
liiidaki,  the  ft)ol  of  the  caniviin,  who  \v:is  precipitiitotl 
into  deep  water.  After  this  accident  the  i)rudent  course 
seemed  to  l)e  to  ])iill  the  imlcd  ponies  across  witli  a  rope, 
an  operation  which  fell  to  my  lot.  The  rope  soon  froze 
in  my  hands,  which  hecame  quite  nuiiih;  my  footinj^  on 
the  ice  was  by  no  means  secure  ;  tlic  projectinfj  rocks, 
wet  l)y  tlie  splashing'  of  the  ponies,  and  quickly  frozen 
over,  afforded  but  treacherous  support,  and.  on  the 
whole,   I  was  «^dad  when  this  task  was  finished. 

Kam  Singh,  whom  I  left  behind,  made  a  <;allant 
attempt  to  reai-h  a  pnint  wlicncc  a  vii'W  of  the  west 
end  of  Raskam  might  be  obtained.  His  efforts  deserved 
success,  but  failed  to  command  it.  Climbing  to  a  point 
aJjout  5,000  feet  higlier  than  Camp  I'JC).  acccjrding  to  the 
aneroid  barometer  whose  reading  I  had  noted  before  he 
started,  he  found  that  still  higher  ridges  intercepted  the 
view,  and  it  was  impossible  for  him  to  proceed  further. 

I  had  thought  it  not  improbable  that  T  might  be  able 
to  spend  Christmas  at  Kashgar  with  Macartni'y,  but  had 
now  to  face"  the  fact  that  the  exploration  of  this  part  of 
Sarikol  would  take  much  longer  time  than  1  iiad  sup- 
posed. More  money  and  sui)plies  had  to  be  obtained, 
and  I  sent  Islam  to  Tashkurghan  to  borrow  money  from 
Munshi  Slier  Mohammed,  and  to  ask  him  for  assistance 
in  procuring  Hour.  salt,  and  othi-r  articles. 

My  next  route  was  that  which  had  been  at  lirst  sug- 
gested by  the  Mmg  Hashi  of  Xosh  Tung,  the  point  which 
1  had  io  reach  being  I'il.  My  distance  from  this  place  1 
could  not  find  out,  but  all  informants  testilied  to  the 
ditVieultiesof  transit.  The  Sargon  I'ass,  ll,.")00feet  high, 
was,  as  Km  III  Smgh  told  me,  very  steep,  and,  with  the 
passage  of  it  in  prospect.  1  had  hired  as  many  good  yaks 
as  could  be  collecti'd,  so  as  to  lighten  the  loads  of  my 
own  baggage  animals. 


22i^    /.y  TinRT  Axn  chixese  ti'rkestax. 

( )ii  Dt'cenibor  0th,  the  day  aftci'  T  liad  returned  from 
the  excursion  up  the  Yarkand  liiver,  I  crossed  the  pass, 
which  was  clear  of  snow.  Th^  ascent  rmiii  tlie  Marion^ 
vaHey  was  not  particularly  dangerous,  but,  on  account  of 
its  steepness,  the  animals  had  to  rest  at  short  intervals. 
Having  made  a  short  halt  at  the -top,  we  began  the 
descent  into  the  A'-shaped  valley,  at  the  head  of  wliich 
lies  Pichanyart.  The  caravan  had  to  proceed  in  strag- 
gling fashion,  down  countless  zigzags,  many  of  which 
were  very  short  and  steep,  though  sometimes  the  longer 
and  easier  ones  proved  dangerous  also.'  On  the  slope  lay 
numberless  stones  which,  being  set  in  motion  by  the  men 
and  animals  in  the  rear,  rolled  and  bounded  down  dan- 
gerously near  those  in  the  front  of  the  caravan.  Some  of 
the  yak  were  very  troublesome,  at  times  standing  stock- 
still,  and  at  other  times  rushing  from  the  track  for  no 
apparent  reason  except  to  loosen  showers  of  stones  on 
the  men  and  animals  below.  At  one  part  of  the  descent 
the  risk  of  injury  from  this  cause  was  so  serious  that 
those  above  were  made  to  halt  till  those  below  had  gained 
a  place  of  safety. 

Yak  are,  as  I  have  already  had  occasion  to  observe, 
very  sure-footed,  and  tliis  valuable  quality  they  retain 
even  when  heavily  laden  and  in  difficult  positions. 

The  Pichanyart  valley  was  much  narrower  than  the 
Mariong  valley  we  had  just  left,  and  its  bottom  was 
covered  with  jungle,  through  which  the  Pichanyart 
stream  forced  its  way.  The  village  of  the  same  name, 
where  we  halted  for  the  first  night  after  leaving  Nosh 
Tung,  consisted  of  a  few  houses  surrounded  by  some 
cultivated  ground.  From  inquiries  here  I  learned  that 
there  was  a  direct  route  from  Nosh  Tung  to  the  west  end 
of  Kaskam,  practicable  for  laden  animals,  and  that  there 
was  also  a  mountain  track,  wliich  only  men  and  goats 
could  use,  from  a  point  near  Camp  120  to  the  Pil  valley. 


jrXCLIi.  239 

This  iiifoniiation  was  {riven  me  in  consequence  of  some 
had  I'eelinfT  which  the  Pichanyart  people  cherished  against 
the  Nosh  Tung  vilhigers.  Whether  it  was  true  or  false 
I  cDuld  not  l)e  certain:  hiil  to  go  back  to  the  Mariong 
valley,  where  no  more  sup[)lies  could  he  obtained,  and 
there  renew  the  search  for  a  route,  was  out  of  the 
ipiestion. 

Advancing  uj)  the  small  side-valley  to  the  Sharnoz 
Pass,  we  found  the  lower  })ortion  beset  with  jungle  and 
slippery  with  sloping  ice,  which  at  some  places  had  to  be 
roughened  before  the  caravan  could  proceed.  The  stream 
at  the  bottom  was  small,  but  ice  overspread  the  ground 
to  a  surprising  extent.  The  pass  was  easy,  and  the  valley 
on  the  east  side,  though  in  places  troublesome  owing  to 
jungle,  did  not  present  any  very  serious  difficulty.  The 
village  called  Sharnoz  we  found  to  consist  of  two  deserted 
lunises  ;  its  distance  in  a  straight  line  fioiii  tin"  nioutli  of 
the  Mariong  lliver  was  only  four  miles,  and  yet  to  reach 
it  we  had  had  to  make  two  marches  and  cross  two 
niouiilain  passes.  From  this  jdace  we  went  forwaid, 
forcing  our  way  through  thick  jungle  and  repeatedly 
crossing  the  fro/en  stream,  till  after  about  two  houi's 
we  reached  an  open  space  large  enough  for  oin-  camp. 
At  this  spot,  called  Sliamataglt>,  was  some  coarse  grass, 
and,  though  it  was  not  yet  noon,  the  men  with  the  yaks 
urged  me  to  halt.  They  knew  the  route  well  and  asserted 
that  further  on.  neither  grass  nor  water  would  he  found 
till  we  should  havi'  cros.sed  two  passes,  one  of  which  was 
vi'ry  difficult.  'I'his  was  ainioying,  but  in  sui-h  a  dillieult 
country  it  seemed  |irudenl  to  art  on  the  advice  of  the 
guides.  The  grass  here  ini^dit  in  summer  hi'  sulVicient 
for  a  few  animals,  but  now  the  ponies  and  donkeys,  I'Vi'U 
though  himgry,  could  only  niMile  at  the  coarse,  straw- 
like fibres  standing  in  witliei-ed  tulls.  To  take  observa- 
tions   1    went    U]t    a    steep    uiomitain-side    for    about    'JOO 


230     /.y    TIBET  AXD    ClIIXTSE    TERKl-STAX. 

feet,  and  levelled  a  space  lai'^'e  enough   for  the  erection 
of  the  theodolite. 

From  ShaiiiataiJ^le  tcj  the  pass  t4"  the  same  name  the 
track  was  at  first  troublesome  for  laden  animals,  but 
further  on  it  was  compjiratively  easy,  thoufi;h  steep,  and 
the  pass  itself  presenttid  no  difficulty.  From  a  small 
eminence  close  by  we  had  a  wide  view  all  round  except 
towards  the  Kliandar  range.  We  could  clearly  distinguish 
peaks  which  I  had  fixed  from  Gombaz,  as  well  as  those 
observed  from  Zad  the  previous  winter ;  while  at  two 
places,  several  thousands  of  feet  below,  we  could  see  the 
Yarkand  Kiver.  The  site  was  a  most  excellent  one,  and 
easy  of  access;  the  weather  was  warm,  sunny,  and  calm, 
and  while  l\am  Singh  in  comfort  accomplished  much 
valuable  topographical  woik,  I  was  able  to  take  several 
photographs  of  the  mountains  which  surrounded  me  in 
bleak  and  barren  majesty. 

The  descent  from  this  "  specular  mount  "  was  for 
some  hundreds  of  feet  delightfully  easy.  In  our  imme- 
diate neighbourlujod  the  hills  showed  a  fair  covering 
of  vegetation  on  which  some  herds  of  sheep  and  goats 
were  browsing,  and  there  was  nothing  to  remind  me  of 
the  warnings  which  the  yak-men  had  given.  Soon, 
however,  the  face  of  the  country  resumed  its  sterner 
aspect.  We  ascended  a  gentle  rise  of  100  or  150  feet  to 
the  Tugadir  Pass,  a  low  gap  in  a  ridge  v/hich  branched 
off  from  the  Khandar  range,  and,  looking  down,  were 
startled  at  the  change  of  scenery.  So  frightfully  steep 
was  the  descent  to  the  valley,  where,  several  thousands 
of  feet  below,  we  could  see  the  blue  Yarkand  River  winding 
between  bare  precipices,  that  only  a  few  yards  of  the 
track  were  visible  in  fr.jnt  of  us,  and  had  I  not  been 
assured  by  guides  familiar  with  the  place,  I  should  not 
have  believe<l  it  possible  for  a  pony,  even  though  unladen, 
t(j  reach   the  bottom   in  safety.     The  caravan  had  gone 


THE    rrCMUK    f'.lSS.  233 

fnr\v;inl  williout  iiir,  and  wlu'ii  1  saw  tlir  (lan«(ors  ol'  the 
Ktiid  1  went  on  us  (|uickly  as  the  natiiii'  of  tlie  ^'lound 
would  allow,  to  ascertain  how  niany  animals  had  fallen 
<l«twn  the  precipice.  The  path  was  here  a  narrow  {^(iat- 
track,  and  it  was  ohstrncted  hv  projectinfij  rocks,  hut  tlie 
ponies  and  donkeys  earriid  little  or  no  haf,'^'a<;i'.  and  the 
hiden  yak  were  fannliar  with  the  danf:jers.  I  have  no 
wish  to  e.\ai,'jj;erate  the  ditHculties  of  the  way,  hut  evi-n 
now,  writing;  amidst  the  mountain  scenery  of  Switzer- 
land, I  marvel  at  the  skill  and  darin«»  shown  in  this 
descent.  At  several  places  the  rocks  were  so  steep  that 
the  ponies  and  donkeys  had  to  he  helped  down  hy 
tile  men.  hut  for  whose  careful  assistance  they  would 
have  tumhled  lieels  over  head  to  instant  death  helow. 
All  the  men  worked  hard,  especially  the  Ladakis,  who, 
thou;,di  not  in  all  circumstances  ideal  companions  for  the 
traveller,  were  always  where  enchnance  and  faithful 
lahour  Were  recpiired  eijual  to  the  occasion.  In  the 
descent  njy  elVorts  were  devoted  to  the  safily  of  the 
caravan,  and  I  rej,'ret  that  I  found  neitlur  time  nor 
place  convenient  for  the  work  of  photoj^'raphin;,'  the 
sc(»ne  ;  nor  could  I  make  ^'ood  this  omission  hy  a  sketch, 
for  I  have  no  skill  in  the  use  of  the  pencil.  The  position, 
however,  of  the  Tuj^adu"  Pass  is  shown  on  the  accom- 
panyiii;,'  map.  with  the  help  of  which  one  nuiy  reacli 
a  tolerahly  accurate  notion  of  the  ^'eneral  conti;:uration 
of  the  c(juntry. 

It  was  with  a  sense  of  relii'f  that  we  approached  the 
hed  of  the  river,  hut  evt-n  there  our  trouhles  wen*  not 
ended,  f(jr  sti-ep  and  rocky  ;^ronnd  still  lay  ht'fore  us. 
One  such  place  wi-  were  fortunately  ahle  to  avoid  hy 
walking'  <»n  ihe  ice  which  extended  for  some  yards  from 
the  left  hank,  i'urllur  on.  the  river  was  comi)letely 
fro/en  over,  and  tlu>  ice  proved  strong'  enou^'h  io  hear 
the    caravan.     TIk*    ponies,    having:    lie«ii    with    me  i-ver 


-\U     /-V    TIIiliT  AXn    Cn/X/iSr:    TCRK/iSTAX. 

since  1  k'lt  (Tilsit,  had  profited  l)y  rxpci-iciice  and  wi'ir 
al)lc  to  walk  wIuto  walking'  seeiiu'd  iiiij)()ssil)lc.  They 
passed  safely  alon^'  exeeral)le  tracks,  over  slippery  ice, 
and  down  steeply  sloping'  rocks.  They  had  even  become 
proficient  in  ne<^otiating  danij^erous  drops,  and  we  could 
with  confidence  look  forward  to  new  feats  of  pony  skill. 

Near  Sanglash  there  was  a  dangerous  corner  to  turn 
at  a  spot  about  "JOO  feet  almost  vertically  above  the 
river,  and  I  had  some  anxiety  as  I  watched  the  progress 
of  the  caravan.  The  yaks,  as  usual,  went  first,  then  one 
of  the  men  led  the  quietest  and  most  sure-footed  of  the 
ponies,  while  several  otlici-  men  hung  on  to  his  tail  to 
prevent  his  turning  a  somersault  over  the  cliffs.  The 
yaks  had  probably  often  passed  that  way  and  were 
utterly  indifferent  to  the  danger,  but  some  of  the  ponies 
showed  great  fear.  The  Ladakis  thought  it  better  that 
all  except  the  foremost  should  bo  allowed  to  choose  their 
road  unled,  and  one  in  terror  actually  took  a  more 
dangerous  course,  but  lengthened  experience  told  in  his 
favour,  and  he  was  able  to  cross  W'ithout  mishap. 

A\'lien  we  came  within  a  few  miles  of  Sanglash  men 
from  that  village  met  us,  and  I  was  glad  when  I  found 
that  they  had  brought  milk  for  me,  for  during  several 
days  my  health  had  been  unsatisfactory,  and  my  diet 
had  been  restricted  to  soup,  rice,  and  tea.  The  milk  was 
not  milk-white,  nor  so  clean  as  that  from  an  iMiglish 
dairy,  but  I  greedily  drank  it,  for  I  was  exhausted  with 
my  arduous  march,  performed  mostly  on  foot  and  w  itiioui 
solid  food.  Sanglash  village,  consisting  of  three  houses 
and  a  water-mill,  stood  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
from  the  Yarkand  Kiver,  and  close  to  the  mouth  of  a 
small  side-valley.  There  was  some  little  cultivation  in 
the  vicinity,  but  I  saw  no  traces  of  jade  or  of  petroleum, 
nor  were  the  inhabitants  acquainted  with  either,  though 
the  re£:ion   has  been  credited  with    iHitli.     Having   here 


scs/'/c/oxs  Aiwrr  me.  235 

(jbtaiiit'd  sulVicifUt  clioppcd  straw  and  barley.  1  lliought 
it  advisable  to  rest.  Islam  lia<l  not  letunied  from  Tasli- 
kur<,dian  witli  money  or  siij)plies  ;  Sonam  was  ill  with 
fever  and  buboes  under  bis  arm  ;  fresh  yaks  were 
re(|uired  to  relieve  those  from  Nosh  Tung,  and  'surveying 
and  reconnoitring  W(jrk  had  to  be  done.  The  caravan 
had  one  day's  repose,  while  Stanzin,  one  of  the  Ladakis, 
went  to  ascertain  whether  there  was  sufticient  ice  on  the 
Yarkand  Kiver,  below  Sanglash,  t(^  admit  of  the  advance 
of  the  caravan  down  the  valley  to  Tir.  He  soon  came 
i)ack  to  tell  us  that  the  ice  was  (piite  insuthcient,  and  lliat 
the  banks  wi-re  too  pri'cipitous  both  for  men  and  animals. 
In  the  evening  Islam  ari-ived  with  money  and  sujiplies 
from  Tashkurghan,  wheic  the  Chinese  had  l)ecome  very 
suspicious  of  me.  Annoying  as  their  suspicions  were, 
I  must  acknowledge  that  they  were  not  altogether  un- 
reasonable from  the  Chinese  point  of  view.  No  China- 
man or,  for  tliat  matter,  no  native  of  tlie  country  could 
understand  why  a  European  sliould  voluntarily  travel  in 
the  depth  of  winter  over  the  execrable  tracks  of  this 
inhospitable  region.  \\\vw  the  l^eg  of  Sarikol  had  been 
iiKjuisitive  as  to  my  motivi-s,  ami  when  these  were 
explainetl  to  him  he  remained  unsatislied.  1  mentioned 
the  Ivoyal  (Tcograpbical  Society,  and  spoki'  of  the  great 
interest  manifeste<l  by  all  civilised  nations  in  the  rivers, 
mountains,  and  gi-neral  geography  of  other  countries.  I 
explained  that  numy  British  pet)ple  were  ready  to  devote 
their  private  means  to  assist  in  mapping  unknown  lands, 
an<l  told  liim  that  as  the  Chinese  would  not  survey  this 
portion  of  their  territory,  I  had  come  to  do  so.  I  dilated 
at  some  length  on  tlie  love  of  tia\el,  s[iorl,  and  ad\iiiture 
which  are  connnon  amongst  tlie  [)i'o})le  of  the  r>rilish 
Islands,  but  with  all  my  elocpicnce  I  could  mak»'  no 
impi'cssion.  and  when  I  ha<l  lini>lied  be  was  still  sceptical. 
'I'he  mental  attitude  of  the  I'ml:  of  Sankol  towards  me  was 


27,6    /.v  77/;/:' /•  j.v/)  c///\/:s/-:  rrRKr.sr.ix. 

Hot  (lirt'oivnl  IVoin  tluit  of  other  ot'ticiul  C'liincsc.  Tlu'se 
men  were  ignorant  of  every  nationality  except  tlieir  own  : 
they  knew  that  no  Cliinanian,  no  native  of  Sin-Cliiang, 
would  wilHngly  travel  as  I  was  travelHn^^  aiul  tliey 
attril)uted  to  nie  S(»iue  niystt'rioiis  purposi'.  1  was  looked 
upon  as  a  secret  aj^'ent  of  the  Indian  Government, 
tliough  no  suspicion  had  ever  less  foundation  in  fact.  1 
was  no  agent  of  the  Indian  Government,  nor  even  in  their 
service  ;  and  there  was  nothing  secret  in  my  proceedings. 
It  was  true,  however,  that  while  I  was  in  Kaskam  and 
adj(jining  lands  the  Mir  of  Hunza  was  negotiating  with 
the  Taotai  of  Kashgar  for  permission  for  the  Kanjuts  to 
return  to  Kaskam  to  cultivate  the  land.  This  Kaiijut 
claim  was  well  known  on  the  Taghdumhash  I'amir,  in 
the  K'ulan  I  rgi  valley,  and  otiier  places  ;  the  nuitter  was 
continually  being  brought  to  my  notice  as  if  it  were  of 
special  interest  to  me,  and  so  sick  of  the  Kanjuts  and 
their  claim  to  Kaskam  did  I  become,  that  1  forbade 
my  men  to  mention  either  in  my  hearing.  To  expect 
Celestials  to  discard  their  suspicions  would  be  tanta- 
mount to  attributing  to  tliem  enlightenment  and  connnon 
sense,  in  Ixjth  of  which  blessings  they  are  conspicuously 
wanting. 

As  it  was  impossible  to  descend  the  valley  of  the  Yar- 
kand  Kiver,  we  were  compelled  to  ascend  the  Pil  valley. 
Having  paid  off  the  Nosh  Tung  men,  I  despatched  Islam 
on  a  second  mission  to  Tashkurglian  for  money,  making 
him  the  l^earer  (jf  a  letter  in  which  I  mentioned  also 
Sonam's  buboes.  The  messenger  set  out  with  the  Nosh 
Tung  men,  to  accompany  them  as  far  as  Pichanyart. 

One  of  the  njost  important  of  the  men  who  came  with 
the  fresh  yaks  was  Yul  I^ash,  who  had  accompanied  me 
the  previous  winter  from  Mazar  Sultan  to  Bazar  Dara. 
He  had  then  persistently  asserted  that  he  knew  nothing 
oi  the  c<»untrv   between    San<dash    and   the   west  end   of 


lv;isl\;iiii,  l)iit  lif  now  inroiiiitMl  \nv  tliut  lie  llioii^'lit  In- 
could  find  ;i  route  to  the  toot  of  the  Toi^a  Dawan.  This 
ofTcr  ot"  j^'uidanci'  was  tantamount  to  an  acknowled<,nuont 
that  he  was  ac-quainted  with  the  eountrv,  and  I  resolved 
to  follow  him  :  hut  he  still,  prohahly  to  keep  up  an  ap- 
))earance  of  i^'norane(\  declined  to  enli^diten  me  as  to  the 
distance  or  the  nundjer  of  marches  required  to  reach  the 
spot.  When  it  became  known  that  Islam  was  goin^  to 
Tashkur^han  for  money,  one  of  the  Sancjiash  villaf,'ers 
ottered  to  accommodate  me  with  a  loan  of  ten  sarrs  (aix)ut 
twenty-seven  rupees),  and  when  I,  in  my  surprise  at  the 
confidence  thus  sliown,  asked  the  man  how  he  expected 
to  l)e  paid,  as  I  did  not  intend  to  n^turn  to  Sanf^lash,  he 
replied  that  he  was  ^'oing  to  Yarkand,  where  the  money 
mi^'ht  ht>  conveniently  repaid,  as  it  would  be  safer  in  my 
hands  than  in  Ids  during  the  journey.  When  I  suggested 
that  it  was  ])ossihle  to  repose  too  mucli  in  a  stranger,  he 
laughed  and  assured  nic  that  he  had  entire  faith  in  Jlritish 
Sahibs,  and  was  perfectly  certain  that  he  would  be  repaid 
in  Yarkand.  1  hesitated  to  take  his  otter,  but,  at  last, 
accepted  the  money,  giving  the  lender  an  I.O.U.,  so  that, 
if  any  accident  happened  to  me,  he  nnght  not  be  a  loser. 

{''rom  in(juiries  made  at  various  times  and  places  I  was 
pretty  certain  that  no  lun'opi-an  travt'Uer  had  ever  visited 
Sanglash  except  (Irondjchefsky.  who  had  approached  the 
village  from  Tashkurghan  by  way  of  Pichanyart  and  the 
'I'ugadir  Pass,  and.  without  ^^oini,^  further  east,  had 
returned    by   the   same   route. 

Our  lirst  march  up  the  I'd  valley,  thou^di  (juite  I'asv. 
was  very  short,  as,  at  the  suggestion  of  \'\\\  Bash  and  tlu' 
^11/  Hashi  of  l)ia,  we  stopped  for  the  ni^dit  at  the  snudl 
village  of  Dia  in  order  that  we  might  obtain  sutticient 
suj)pli(>s  for  the  journey  to  the  west  end  of  Kaskam  and 
back.  The  yak-nieii.  anion;,'  whom  ^'ul  I'.ash  had  far 
more  authontv  than  the  Yu/.  I'.ashi,  assured  me  that    bv 


_\:;s    /.\'  Tii>i-.r  Axn  ciiixEsi-.  T('RK/-:sr.\.y. 

starting  early  uii  llic  I'dIIdw  iiii;  luni'iuiig  wc  should  hf  al)lc 
to  reach  the  top  ol'  liie  pass  helore  iii^dit.  In  llicse 
narrow  valleys  the  days  were  now  very  short,  and  the 
mornings  were  so  very  cold  that  it  was  impossible  to  get 
the  men  to  start  early.  The  slowness  of  our  progress  was 
vexatiotis,  as  I  was  most  anxious  to  finish  the  exploration 
of  this  part  of  the  country  before  the  passes,  at  all  times 
difficult,  should  be  encumbered  with  the  deep  snow  which 
falls  in  the  later  part  of  winter.  The  only  consolation  for 
delay  was  found  in  the  numerous  opportunities  with 
which  it  provided  me,  for  taking  observations  and  obtain- 
ing checks  on  the  work  of  the  topographer,  whose  task 
was  exceedingly  dit'ticult.  When,  in  the  morning,  Yul 
Bash  and  his  men  were  rebuked  for  the  lateness  of  their 
start,  they  replied  that  it  was  of  little  consequence  as  we 
should  spend  the  night  at  a  place  called  Chadder  Tasli 
(stone  hut),  where  we  should  find  grass,  fuel,  and  water. 
The  distance  to  this  luit  was  short,  but  the  way  was 
through  jungle  which  delayed  the  animals,  or  over  the 
frozen  Pil  River,  which  had  to  be  crossed  repeatedly;  and 
at  two  places  the  caravan  had  to  halt  while  the  men  [died 
pick  and  spade  (indispensable  to  the  explorer  in  Sarikol) 
in  clearing  a  track.  On  the  slippery  ice  we  had  to  scatter 
gravel  or  clay,  but  here  the  ponies,  habituated  to  the 
conditions,  showed  a  marvellous  })ower  of  keeping  their 
feet,  and  did  not  even  appear  timid  or  nervous.  Up  to 
December  J  1th,  only  one  pony  had  fallen  on  the  ice.  After 
six  hours  of  toil  we  reached  Chadder  Tash,  where  we 
found  two  miseral)le  huts,  but  no  grass.  This  desolate 
spot,  visited  at  other  seasons  by  shepherds  and  goatherds, 
who  obtained  shelter  in  the  draughty  hovels,  was  at  this 
time  of  the  year  destitute  of  fodder,  except  a  little  very 
closely-cropped  boortza.*  This  was  useful  for  fuel,  but 
the  hungry  animals,  freed  from  their  loads,  could  find  no 
■•'■  Eu ratio  reratoidfu. — C.  A.  M. 


ACC/nnxT  TO  dox /</■:)'.  239 

sustc'Uiincc  ill  it.  and  as  llicy  wandered  alxmi  in  scarcli  of 
sonu'tliinj,'  edible  had  at  least  the  benefit  of  exercise  in 
the  frosty  ni^dit.  It  would  have  been  easy  to  bring 
chopped  straw  Ironi  Dia  had  J  known  the  true  state  of 
matters,  but  now  it  was  too  late  to  send  for  it ;  expostula- 
tion with  the  guide  was  useless,  and  I  had  simply  to 
sui)mit  to  the  hal)itual  practice  of  falsehood  on  the  part  of 
those  to  whom  1  looked  for  information.  Snow  fell 
during  the  night  and  overspread  the  fine  clay  with  which 
the  track  in  many  i)laces  was  covered.  When  we  started 
in  the  mornmg  I  wiMit  on  ahead  as  usual  to  examine  the 
track.  l)ut  before  1  had  gone  far  was  recalled  by  the  shout- 
ing, which  told  me  that  one  of  the  animals  had  fallen. 
The  fresh  snow,  mixed  with  the  underlying  clay,  had 
balled  in  the  feet  of  the  ponies  and  donkej's,  and  it  was 
with  the  utmost  ditticulty  that  the  animals  could  walk  or 
(ven  stand.  To  this  cause  of  trouble  the  caravan  men 
had  paid  not  the  slightest  attention,  and  one  of  the 
tlonkeys,  moving  along  a  comparatively  excellent  track 
nearly  eight  inches  wide,  had  slipped  and  fallen  down  the 
declivity.  The  donkey  was  killed  by  the  fall,  but  his  load 
sustained  little  damage,  only  one  tin  of  J^)ovril  having  been 
destroyed.  The  temperature  was  very  low,  and  the  clay- 
snow  mixture  froze  so  hard  that  the  hacking  of  it  out  of 
the  hoofs  with  knives  on  the  narrow  track  was  both 
dilVicult  and  dangerous.  Though  the  famished  animals 
became  restive  and  resented  the  operation,  the  task  was 
acconiplislied,  and  by  sending  the  yaks  ahead  we  had  the 
path  trodden  and  cleari'd  of  snow,  so  that  this  source  of 
trouble  disap|)eared  almost  entirely. 

Ila\iiiL;  ejiiiibed  a  steej)  but  not  \ery  dillieult  ascent  of 
.')()()  or  -100  feet.  We  caine  to  a  very  vile  j)iect'  of  gi-ound. 
The  narrow  track  was  stee)».  rather  a  droj>  than  nierelv  a 
descent,  beset  with  ])ri  >t  i  iiding  rocks  and  strewn  with 
loose   stones,  large   and   small.      We   worked   with   picks, 


240     /X    TJllF.T   AXn    CI  1 1 XI-.  SE    TCKKRSTAX. 

soiuewhat  siuootliin^^  down  tlic  r()cl<s,  and  wi-  lollcd  the 
lartrer  stones  over  the  declivity.  (Idnmi  wliicli  tlicv  hoimdcil 
to  the  bottom.  We  thus  shjj;htly  iiu^u-ovcd  the  track,  but 
to  make  it  even  tolerably  free  from  danger  within  the  time 
at  our  disposal  was  hopeless.  There  still  remained  large 
projecting  rocks  which  blocked  the  way  for  animals  laden 
with  bulky  packages,  and  when  we  resumed  our  march 
the  greatest  care  and  caution  had  to  be  exercised.  The 
yaks  were  sent  on  in  front  laden  with  corn,  flour,  and 
rice,  each  of  them  assisted  by  several  men,  who  led,  urged, 
or  restrained  according  to  circumstances,  while  others 
hung  on  to  the  tail  to  prevent  the  animals  from  turning 
heels  over  head  down  the  declivit3\  The  yak  dans,  con- 
taining instruments,  bedding,  clothes,  cooking  utensils, 
and  medicine  chest,  we^e  carried  by  men  who  returned  to 
help  the  unladen  ponies  and  donkeys  down  the  slope. 
The  men  managed  so  well  that  there  was  no  serious 
casualty.  Any  mishaps  that  occurred  were  due  mainly  to 
the  awkwardness  of  the  donkeys.  These  animals  were 
sent  down  in  lots,  and  the  last  donkey  of  the  foremost 
lot,  losing  his  balance,  fell  and  slid,  sweeping  off  their 
feet  many  of  those  in  front.  These  poor  animals  seemed 
quite  to  lose  their  wits,  sliding  and  rolling  down  in  the 
most  alarming  manner.  Any  deviation  from  the  track 
would  have  led  to  certain  death,  and  it  was  marvellous 
that  not  one  was  killed.  There  was  very  considerable 
annoyance  and  danger  from  stones  loosened  by  the 
donkeys  in  their  fall.  One  large  stone  had  just  begun  its 
descent  towards  the  lower  portion  of  the  cai-avan  when 
it  was  dexterously  interce])ted  by  Abdul  Karim,  who, 
taking  a  few  long  and  quick  strides,  stepped  across  its 
course  and  stopped  it,  but  in  so  doing  had  his  right  hand 
dragged  along  the  ground  and  l>adly  bruised.  It  has  been 
my  fate  to  take  a  caravan  over  so  many  bad  tracks,  that 
it  would  be  difficult  to  arrange  them  definitely  in  order 


rii.iri'.RT.  -M" 

of  (K-mi'nl.  l)Ul  this  cxccnil)!*'  didp,  or  "  cliiitc,"  if  n«»t 
iibsolutely  the  worst  (U'scciil  I  ever  became  acquainted 
with,  was  certainly  surpassed  in  vileness  by  none. 

About  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  reached  the  two 
stone  huts  of  I'ilipert.  whose  distance  in  a  strai«,dit  line 
from  C'hadder  Tash  did  not  exceed  four  miles.  The 
caravan,  consistin;.,'  of  a  few  yaks,  ponies,  and  donkeys, 
with  men  in  sulHcient  numbers  to  render  all  assistance 
that  could  be  ;,'iven,  had  taken  nearly  ci^dit  hours  to  the 
march. 

One  of  the  small  tlat-rooled  liuls,  ihrou^^h  \\\v  walls  of 
which  the  biting'  wind  blew  as  easily  as  throu^di  a  sieve, 
was  occupied  by  a  few  men  in  char^^'  of  about  sixty  yak. 
the  herd  beiuj^  brou^dit  every  winter  to  graze.  The  ])lace 
was  l.S.HoO  feet  high,  but  possessed  abundant  grass.  At 
this  spot  we  found  that  four  routes  met — viz.,  that  by 
which  we  liad  just  travelled,  one  leading  from  Kulan 
I'rgi,  and  a  third  and  fourth  to  the  west  end  of  J\askam. 
l)uriiig  the  evening  thtif  was  uimsual  excitement  and 
hubbub  among  the  yak-men  while  they  discussed  among 
themselves  the  choice  of  my  ne.xt  route.  Their  opinions 
and  counsels  wen-  divided,  but  1  was  loo  busy  with  my 
observations  and  comjmtations  to  pay  any  attention  to 
them,  and  when  my  woik  was  completed  (juiet  had  been 
restoretl  in  the  company. 


CM  \i''ii:i;  w 

Yiil  Hash — Guides  ei>tnij)ped — Ascent  up  glacier — The  Mamakul 
i'ass — Trying  observations-  Ex))osure^The  descent — Zaiubok 
frozen  to  deatli — Long  march — Travelling  in  the  dark — Misgan — 
J)ifficult  march — Kaskam — La/y  yak-men — Object  accompli  si  led 
— Lengthy  drtoiir — rreci]iitous  ascent  to  Topa  Dawaii  -(iood 
news — Yul  Bash  the  liar^Accident  to  yak — Return  route— Tents 
useless— Kani  Singh  does  good  work — Natives  refuse  information 
— Paying  oH' the  yak-men — Issok  Hulok  Ag/.i. 

\\'i'J'li  two  roiiti's  Mjx'ii  to  tlie  west  cud  ui'  Haskaiii, 
'  ''  and  with  <,aiidc'S  in  my  company  evidently  well 
aeijnainted  willi  hotli,  I  seemed  to  have  a  fair  chance  of 
reaching  my  ^oal.  Of  the  routes  I  knew  nothing,  and 
i)etween  them  I  c(nild  make  no  choice,  while,  as  to  the 
guides,  I  (juite  understood  that  truth-speaking  was  not 
among  tlieir  accomplishments.  However,  though  Yul 
J^»ash,  a  man  of  marked  individuality,  persistently  dis- 
claimed all  knowledge  of  hoth  routes,  I  put  myself  with 
some  contidence  in  his  hands,  hi'lieving  that,  for  rcUsons 
of  his  own,  he  was  understating  his  (jualifications.  A 
company  of  K'ir^iii/  had  set  out  the  day  before  on  the 
route  up  the  valley,  and  had  crossed  the  high  pass  at  its 
head,  and  this  route  Yul  J^ash  urged  me  to  follow.  I  had 
had  experience  of  this  man's  falsehood,  but  knew  no 
other  reason  why  I  should  not  in  this  matter  take  his 
advice  ;  so  I  prepared  to  set  out  in  the  morning.     Hound 

rilipert    the    country  was  free    from   snow,   l)ut    up    the 

242 


valley    \vi'    could    .^»r    llial    the    ^'rouiul    was    wliiic    iiiul 
evidently  iinpassaMc  for  ponies  and  donki-ys.     1  tlien-fore 
resolved   to  send  the   fj,-eater  part    nl'  the   caravan,  coni- 
prisin*,'  most  of  the  men.  all  the  ponies  and  donkeys,  and 
all  the  spare  ba;,';,'a^'e  and  food,  to  the   Kulan   Vv^i  valley 
to  wait  as  near  Issok  Su  A^'zi  as  the  supply  of  f^rass  in 
the  nei^jhhourhood  would  allow,  wliile  liani  Sin<,di  and  T. 
accompanied  hy  Ahdul  Karim,  Dass,  Mohannned  .loo,  and 
Sonam,  under  the  direction  of  the  yak-men,  would  follow 
the  track  of  the  Kir«,'hiz.     The  yak  were  six  in  number, 
and  these  were  represented  as  sullicient  to  carry  the  tw(j 
tents  (which  on  the  journey  jiroved  oidy  hurdensome,  not 
useful),    the    instruments,    ijic     ll(•ddin^^     food,    cooking' 
utensils,  and,  as  the  weatlur  was  very  severe,  an  abundant 
stock  of  clothin},'  and  ru^^s.      in  the  evening',  seated  at  my 
tent  door,  with  the  thermometer  at  ai)out  0"  1'..  1  found 
it   lU'cessary   to  labour   at    my  c(unputations,   consulting' 
l<»;4arithmic  tables  and  the  Nautical  Almanac,  and  at  the 
same  time  to  superintend  the  wei^diin«,'  of  the  packages 
and    the    issuing,'   of   rations   for   the    separate    travellin*,' 
l)arties.     When    these    various   duties    had    been    accom- 
plished,   and    when    1    had    i^iven    instructions    for    next 
morniiie  in  \'ul  I5:is|i  mid  the  yak-men  from  Hia.  I  was 
able  to  turn  into  my  tent,  and  tie   myself  in  my  sleepin*;- 
ba<,'  for  a  •,'<»( »d  ni<,dit's  rest. 

Next  mornin},'  1  was  early  astir,  but  the  aii'  was  cold 
and  raw,  the  temperature  at  st-vi-n  o'c-loek  bein^'  undi^r 
()"  F.,  and  the  day  was  well  advanced  before  we  set  out. 
The  snow  in  the  opi-n  was  not  more  than  si\  niches  deep, 
and  the  tracks  of  the  Kir^dii/  were  easy  to  follow.  This 
company  consisted,  as  I  was  now  told,  of  men  who  were 
atteiulin^'  Tahir  P>e;,'.  the  ejiief  interpreter  (»f  tlu-  Chow- 
Kuan  of  Varkaiul,  on  an  otVieial  mission  to  Uaskam,  and 
the  rumour  was  current  that  Tahir  He*;  was  ^'oin^^  to 
point  out  to  the  three  envoys  of  tlu-   Mir  of  Mun/a   the 


J44     /•^■    /'//>■/:/■  .l.\7)    (///\/-:S/:     TC  R  K  US  T.l  X. 

places  wliit'li  ilu'ir  counlryiiiuii,  Llic  Kaiijul^,  im^hl 
occupy.  1  Imtl,  of  course,  no  connection  with  llic 
Kanjuts.  l)ul  it  was  unfortunate  that  my  journey  to 
Kaskani  should  l)e  made  in  the  track  of  the  Chow-Kuan's 
interpreter,  for  neither  Chinese  nor  Sarikolis  woukl  rej^ard 
the  coincidence  as  accidental 

For  several  miles  the  ascent  oi  the  I'il  valley  was  not 
steep,  and  the  track  was  fairly  trood,  so  tliat  1  had  leisure 
to  question  the  yak-men  eonceriiin<,f  the  route,  'riikiii^^ 
them  individually,  each  out  of  earshot  of  his  comrades,  I 
found  that  the  men  were  in  fact  well  acquainted  with  the 
route.  Two  of  them  became  so  frank  as  to  point  out  the 
direction  of  the  Mamakul  Pass  which  we  had  to  cross, 
but  perceiving^  that  they  had  committed  themselves  in 
displayin*,'  their  knowledge,  they  became  sulky,  and 
sullenly  insisted  tliat  they  did  not  know,  hut  only  tliouglit 
that  the  matter  was  as  they  had  stated. 

The  ascent  became  steeper  and  the  track  more  stony 
until  it  was  concealed  imder  snow-drift,  frozen  so  Imrd  as 
to  support  the  yaks,  which,  however,  occasionally  broke 
through  the  upper  crust.  The  little  valley  where  this 
snow  lay  was  fairly  well  sheltered,  but  when  we  passed 
])eyond  it  we  had  to  scramble  up  the  as<(iil  on  a  slippery 
glacier  with  a  strong  wind  in  «jur  laces,  while  the  tempera- 
ture was  at  — !-!°  V.,  or  t'oity  degrees  below  the  freezing- 
point.  The  gradient  was  rathei-  steeji.  the  ice  very 
slippery,  tlie  air  highly  rarefied,  and  the  yaks  heavily 
laden,  so  that  rapid  i)rogress  was  impossible  and  frecjuent 
halts  were  necessary,  that  men  and  animals  might  regain 
their  breath.  Owing  to  the  slowness  of  the  motion  and 
the  frequency  of  the  stoppages  the  cold  was  very  trying, 
especially  for  the  feet.  I  was  warmly  clad,  but  exercise 
was  necessary  to  prevent  stagnation  of  the  blood.  My 
socks  were  not  in  the  best  condition,  but  they  were  of  the 
thickest  wool,  and  even  three  pairs  together  could   not 


TR ) v.w;  ( y:s/-:A' i '. \  in W's  J45 

lu'cp  my  ii-vi  wiinii  :is  1  ciau  ltd  u[>  the  «,'Iiicit'r.     Orcliiiiiry 
hoots,   under  the   i-oiiditioiis   of   this   ascent,    wouUl   have 
heen  worse  than  useless,  'hut   I   found   much  advantaj^'e  in 
wearni^'   my  ohl   ruhher-soled   hoots.      For   a   httle   while 
after  hoin«,'  put  on   they  were  cohl.  owin^^  to  the  frozen 
moisture    they    contained,     hut     as     tliis     thawi-d     they 
hecame  warm  and  comfortal)U' :  the  ruhher  soles  rendered 
my  footing'  on  the  ice  secure,  and  they  wore  well.      It  was 
not  till  ahout  half-past  three  that    we  reached  the   t.»p  of 
the  Manuikul   Pass,  where,  sonu'how,  the  wind  was  less 
violent  than  in  the  ascent,  and  the  hri^dit   sunshme  raised 
the  temperature  a  few  de^'rees.     Takini,'  a  hopeful  view  of 
the   situation,    I    set   to  work   to    hoil    theiiihinicters  and 
ascertain  tlu'  hei^dit  of  the  pass,  hut  the  operation  proved 
»'xceedinj,dy  trying'.      In  order  to  handle  the  hypsometer 
more  easily  and  to  ii^dit  the  candle,  which  was  sheltered 
from  the  stitT  hree/e   hy  Ahdul   Kaiim's  and   Mohannned 
.loo's   coat-tails,    I    removed    m\    thick    •(loves    and    my 
finders    repeatedly    hei-anu-    nund).      The    cold    was    so 
intense,  and  the  wax  of  the  candle  was  frozen  so  hard, 
that  the  heat  einitttMl  hy  the  three  wicks,  whose  tips,  afti-r 
a  vast  expenditure  r»f  vestas,  I  succeeded  in  li^d)tinj,'.  was 
unahle  to  melt  it,  and  we  had  to  pile  little  pieces  of  old 
candle  ends  round  the  tiny  Ihunes  till   the  wax  he^sin  to 
melt  and  the  metal  work  to  heconu'  warmer.      When  the 
candle  was  proi)erly  li^dited  i>ur  tniid»les  in  this  operation 
wer«'  ended,   for  the   hypsonietei-  was  so  well   desi<(ned   hy 
Casella  that  no  wind  ever  hlew  it  out.      While  the  ii'c  was 
meltin;^'   I    ran    ahout    ami   stampe<l    my   feet    t<i    keep   my 
hloud  in  motion    and    prevent    frost-hite,   aiul   as  soon   as 
the  watei"  hoded    I    made   niv  notes,  packt'd  up  the   instru- 
ment,  auil   he^'aii   the   descent.     To   attempt    tojio^raphic 
work  in  such  circumstaiu-es  was  out  of  the  <pU'stion  ;   hut 
W(>  wei"e  ai>le  later  to  ascertain   the  position   of  the  pass 
and  lay  U  down   accuiatelx  on   the   niaj>.      To  me.  tlmu^di 


24*^)     /.\^    Tir^IiT  .\\n    CHIXESli    rCRK/'.STAX. 

I  \\:is,  c'xrrpt  for  ;i  Irw  iiiimilcs,  (•(implctcly  cijiiippi'd 
against  llic  c-nM.  the  i-oiulitioiis  Iutc  wciv  vciy  trying, 
and  I  c-oiild  not  l)iit  marvel  at  the  liardiness  (lisphiyed  hy 
thf  yak-nicn.  Tliey  were  hy  no  means  overburdened 
Willi  raiment,  and  not  one  of  tlicm  wore  f,doves,  yet  they 
seemed  to  sutTer  no  injury  and  almost  no  inconvenience 
from  exposuiv  to  the  hitin^-  wind.  Anion^'  them  was  a 
mere  hoy,  wlio  usually  led  the  foremost  yak.  He  wore 
no  tjloyes,  and  Ids  clothes  were  in  a  wretched  condition  : 
yet  he  seldom  spoke,  never  complained,  and  never  appeared 
even  to  he  fati^'ued.  Natural  selection  would,  of  course, 
f(0  a  lon^^  way  to  account  for  the  ])o\\ci-  (»!'  endurance 
shown  hy  these  mcjuntaineers  ;  the  men  who  were  not  lit 
for  the  climate  would  die  off  and  leave  possession  to  those 
that  wt-rc^  ;  hut  the  cheerful,  uncom[)lainiiiu  in(histry 
exliihited  i^y  the  hoy  appeared  to  spring  fiom  virtues 
which  he  sliared  with  none  of  the  others,  and  which  were 
very  pleasing  to  contemplate. 

The  descent  on  the  Kaskam  side  of  the  pass,  being 
exposed  to  the  sunshine,  was  quite  free  from  snow,  and 
the  one  glacier  which  we  noticed  on  our  left  hand  as  we 
descended  was  small  hut  stee[).  At  first  the  declivity  was 
steep  and  covered  with  shale  and  loose  stones,  on  which 
Kam  Singh  and  Mohannned  Joo,  who  led  the  way,  were 
unal)le  to  keep  an  upright  position.  ]^y  keeping  the  yaks 
pretty  (dose  to  one  track,  lujwever.  we  im[)roved  the  road 
and  I  was  able  to  descend  witliout  juuch  trouble  ;  but  so 
ditticult  was  the  ground  that  four  of  the  six  yak  slipped 
and  fell. 

Nearly  a  year  before,  when  at  Yarkand,  I  had  bought 
a  thick-coated  dog,  Zandjok  hy  name,  which  though  of  a 
very  independent  disposition  had  become  quite  attach(!d  to 
me.  His  custom  was  to  sleep  in  my  tent  and  to  enliven 
the  night  hy  rushing  out  to  bark  at  the  animals  or  at 
sounds  which  were  tome  inaudible.    His  love  of  the  chase 


ZAMIIOK    IROZEX    TO    PI-.. Mil  247 

was  luiboiindcd.  aiitl  it'  at  liinity  wlicii  williiii  i«'iicli  nf 
rmir-footed  j^'anio  he  could  not  be  restrained.  His  sport- 
ing' proclivities  had  i)een  annoyin*,'  in  Tibet  ami  Aksai 
('bin,  for  be  often  scented  or  saw  antelopes  and  was  off 
in  pursuit  before  we  had  even  suspected  their  presence  in 
the  neiu[iil)ourbood.  To  have  a  chance  of  ^'ettin^'  near 
^Mine  we  found  it  ni'ci»ssary  to  tie  him  up  and  lead  him. 
but  he  soon  became  exi)ert  in  cludinj^f  us.  He  used  to 
slink  away  early  in  the  mornin;,'  and.  keepin<j;  at  several 
hun<lred  yards'  distance  from  the  camp  or  caravan,  would 
listen  to  no  connnands  or  i-()axin<,'s  or  [)romises  which 
were  intended  to  brin^'  him  back.  If  he  found  no  ^^ame 
on  the  march  he  would  still  keep  his  distance  till  camp 
was  j)itched  and  then  would  cautiously  rejoin  us.  Zambok 
had  been  in  our  company  wlicii  we  set  out  from  C'baddcr 
Tash  towards  Pilipert  ;  our  slow  pro^avss  had  annoyed 
him,  for  lu'  went  forward  and  returned  repeatedly  to 
ascertain  what  was  wron^^  He  bounded  away  a','ain, 
satisfied  each  time  with  beini^^  patted  on  the  head,  but  from 
one  excursion  lu'  never  came  back.  When  our  company 
had  j^ot  past  the  shaly.  stony  declivity  on  the  way  to 
Kaskam,  .Vbdul  Karim.  who  was  a  short  distance  ahead, 
shouted  to  me  that  he  had  found  Zambok  frozen  to  death. 
The  do;,'  had  seen  or  scented  far  oil'  a  herd  of  ibex  or 
burrhei  and.  proinptly  ^'iviiiL,'  chase,  had  |tursU(id  the  ;,'ame 
across  till'  Mamakul  Pass  and  over  the  steep  e^lacii'r,  wlieit' 
he  ha<l  sli|)ped  and  fallen,  breakiiii,'  a  le^'  on  tlx-  rocks 
below.  I  was  imt  tlie  < mly  iiieiiiber  of  t be  cara\ an  that 
lamented  his  decease,  for  Zambok.  with  his  close-cidp|)ed 
ears,  had  a  tierce  and  threatening'  a))pearanci'  which  made 
him  a  valuable  watch-do^,  his  mere  look  fri«.,'htenin^'  away 
natives  who  wt-re  disjxtsi'd  to  pay  us  troublesome  visits. 

When  the  davli^'ht  bi'^^an  to  wane  we  were  still  hi^'h 
up  111  :i  legion  destitute  of  shelter,  of  fuel,  and  even  of 
ice,  and   tboimli   men  and  aiiiniais  were  buiiLiiy.  thirsty, 


J4.S    /.y  '/'//> /rr  ./.w)  (//fxns/i  tcrk/'Istax. 

and  tired,  it  was  lU'ccssarv  to  liasleii  forward.  Xoiic  l)iit 
the  ytik-iueii  knew  wliere  we  should  he  ahle  to  hah  for 
the  ni^dit,  and  tliev  would  not  tell,  so,  directing  them  to 
uuiUe  no  delay,  I  went  ahead  to  reconnoitre.  IMie  valley 
presented  a  cheerless  aspect;  it  was  exceedin^dy  rocky: 
in  places  it  was  so  steep  as  to  be  almost  impassable  even 
for  the  yaks  ;  no  water  was  in  sight,  and  no  fuel  of  any 
sort.  Bein^  anxious  to  see  as  far  forward  as  possible 
before  daylight  (juite  failed.  1  jmshcd  oii  and.  mucli  to  my 
surprise.  cam(>  suddenly  on  a  herd  of  hurrhel  whieh  had 
come  down  to  the  valli'\'  to  (|uencli  their  thirst  by  licking 
the  ice.  Tufortunately,  1  had  lel't  my  cai-l)iiie  behind, 
and  could  only  continue  my  solitary  tramp.  After 
marching  in  tlie  dai'k  for  about  two  hours  in  an  unknown 
region,  stumbling  over  rocks  and  stones,  1  threw  myself 
on  the  ground  to  wait  for  the  arrival  of  the  caravan.  \\\\ 
l^ash  was  the  first  to  reach  me;  then  Mohammed  Joo, 
who  told  me  that,  notwithstanding  his  professed  igno- 
rance, ^'ul  Uash  knew  of  an  "  ungur,"  oi-  shekel-,  a  little 
further  on.  1  was  hungry,  thirsty,  and  tired  ;  the  level 
l)lot  where  I  was  contained  I'oom  enough  for  the  purpose 
of  sleej),  and  there  was  some  bnishwDod  at  hand  which 
would  serve  for  fuel  ;  so  I  declined  to  go  h)rwa rd  till  \\\\ 
P>ash  stated  plainl\'  that  he  know  the  ground.  'I'lun, 
sending  our  guide  in  front,  I  stiiinhled  on,  and  at  leii^^lh 
heard  him  explain  that  he  had  readied  the  "  ungur." 
The  tired  men  and  yaks  struggled  in  and  were  relieved  of 
theii-  burdens,  and,  after  lighting  a  small  lire  of  brush- 
wood, we  were  able  to  look  about  us.  Kocks  and  stones 
were  too  plentiful  on  botli  sides  of  the  valley,  which  was 
hemmed  in  Ijy  barren  and  almost  vertical  mountains  ;  but 
we  ])lainly  heard  the  sound  of  ninniiiu  water  ;  some  low 
l)ushes,  tit  foi'  firewood,  were  close  by,  and  there  was  a 
prospect  of  finding  sufficient  level  ground  to  sleep  on. 
I  asked  Vul  P)asli  where  the  "ungur  "  was,  and  he  replied 


1  R.wh'.i.i.ixc  i\  run  park.         249 

iiiiiiiililiHiiily,  ■■  01'  (.Mtiasc,  Siiliil).  tlu'iv  it  is,"  pointing'  to 
11  scinicirfiihir  wall  ol"  riihMc.  not  more  than  t'i^'litecn 
inches  hi^'h  at  its  hij^'host  i);irts,  hut  supposed  to  l)e  com- 
pleted by  a  sli^ditly  overhan^MU^'  clitt'  of  solid  rock.  Dass 
inmiediately  took  possession  of  this  so-ealled  "  shelter," 
while  others  stretched  llirir  W(  aiy  hnihs  on  the  ^M'ound 
for  a  few  minutes'  rest  before  setting' about  the  preparation 
for  the  night's  repose.  Then  lanterns  were  lif^ditetl  ;  \\\\ 
Hash  and  two  companions  went  to  «]father  firewood,  and  I 
looked  about  to  select  a  suitable  sj)ot  for  my  tpiarters  for 
the  ni^'ht.  ('los(>  to  the  "  unfjur "  tlieic  was  another 
shelter,  formed  by  projectin<,'  rocks,  and  as  this  was 
supposed  to  be  the  most  desirable  spot  which  the  locality 
possessed,  I  promptly  claimed  it  for  myself.  It  was  m 
fact  not  one  whit  better  than  the  open  fjround,  but  the 
natives  considered  it  suixiior,  and  had  1  not  occupied  it 
1  should  have  fallen  in  their  estimation,  and  have  thus 
prepared  trouble  in  the  future.  Our  lon^^  and  toiIsom<> 
day's  labour  came  to  an  end  ab;)ut  U.3()  o'clock,  when  Kam 
Siiif^b.  .\bdul  Karim.  and  Dass,  as  well  as  myself,  enjoyed 
a  hastily  i)repared  but  well-earned  supjx'r.  Then  I  h:id 
time  to  deliberate  on  the  annoyances  of  the  day.  II  \\\\ 
Hash,  who  knew  the  route  and  the  distance  perfectly,  had 
informed  me  of  them  (instead  of  protesting'  his  ip^norance) 
we  should  have  startt-d  earlier;  we  should  have  carried 
less  bai^^'afje,  for  our  tents  nu^dit.  with  nnich  advanla^'e. 
have  been  left  at  Pilipeit.  and  we  couKI  have  obtained 
nior«' yaks.  Uut  \\\\  Hash  loved  to  kee[>  bis  information 
to  himst'lf,  and.  in  a  curious  way.  to  pose  as  a  man  of 
mystery.  l''oi'  the  determinatictn  ol  the  |)osition  of  our 
bivouac  I  was  to<i  tired  to  take  asirononiical  observations, 
which  hi^di  and  almost  vertical  clitTs  and  the  winding'  of 
the  valley  woidd  have  rendered  soMiewbal  dilVieuIt.  I 
made  preparation  for  rest.  len},'thenin>,'  the  "shelter" 
according'  to  the  measure  of  mv  own  stature,  and  I  was 


250     /.\'    /y/;/:/'   .l.\7)    C/I/X/iS/i    TCKKIiSTAX. 

soon   S111IJ4-  williiii   my  slccpiii^-l);!^-.  onK    my  I'licc    l)ein^' 
exposed  to  the  freezing'  aii-. 

Avvakini,'  at  daybreak  from  sound  and  (•omr(>it;d)|c  sleep, 
I  found  that  the  thermometer  which  huii^  al  my  head 
indicated  a  temperature  of  zero  F.  Proceeding  to  rouse 
the  caravan,  I  urged  the  men  to  get  ready  for  the  journey 
without  delay,  but  it  was  late  in  the  forenoon  when  we 
resumed  our  march.  In  the  short  distance  to  INIisgan  we 
had  no  trouble,  and  there  we  found  a  couple  of  Kirghiz 
from  the  Tashkurghan  Pamir.  These  people,  in  accord- 
ance with  the  habits  of  the  region,  professed  utter  igno- 
rance of  the  distance  to  the  Yarkand  River.  Passing  their 
tent,  we  followed  a  very  crooked  track  in  and  out  of  dense 
jungle,  and  beset  in  places  with  projecting  rocks.  The 
jungle  impeded  the  yaks,  while  both  jungle  and  rocks 
severely  damaged  the  baggage,  but  before  darkness  had 
quite  fallen  we  had  reached  a  more  open  part*  of  the 
valley.  There  we  found  some  abandoned  houses  and 
fields,  and,  about  a  couple  of  hundred  yards  further  down, 
was  a  side-valley  uj)  which  another  route  branched.  \ 
had  hoped  to  reach  the  Yarkand  River  that  night,  but  the 
yaks  were  so  tired  and  the  way  so  itad  tliat  it  would  have 
been  unreasonable  to  have  insisted  on  pushing  on.  .\ 
fairly  large  ruined  house  offered  shelter  for  us  all,  and 
we  were  cheered  by  the  blaze  of  thick,  dry  wood  which  we 
found  in  abundance.  A  few  hundred  yards  from  the  place 
where  we  were  bivouacking  we  had  passed  several  heaps 
of  chopped  straw,  yet  tlie  yak-men  had  no  intention  of 
supplying  their  animals  with  fodder,  till  I  threatened  pains 
and  penalties  to  tho.se  who  did  not  either  bring  the  food 
to  the  yaks  or  take  the  yaks  to  the  food.  After  a  late 
repast  I  unpacked  the  in^trunK-nts  and  had  them  carried 
to  the  small  side-valley,  where  the  usual  observations  were 
taken.  At  the  bivouac  I  was  informed,  to  my  surprise, 
that  this  valley,  from  Misgan  downwards,  formed  part  of 


ofijRCT  ACCOM ri.isnr.n.  251 

liaskani.  and  that  the  Kaujiils  wt'ic  to  W\  allowed  t(j  settle 
there  and  cultivate  the  pfround.  Another  interestincr  fact 
conmninicated  to  me  was  that,  so  recently  as  the  preceding 
sunnner.  the  land  round  our  hivouac  had  been  cultivated 
hy  Y'ul  Bash.  This  information  was  obtained  by 
Moliammed  .Too  from  a  yak-drivrr  l)oy.  This  lad  was 
not  a  Tajik  hut  a  native  of  Kulan  V\'\C\,  and,  as  he  was 
evidently  disposed  to  «,nve  information.  I  instructed 
Mohannned   .Too  to  entrust   my   ridin^^  yak    to   his  care. 

We  were  in  no  hurry  to  start  in  the  mornings  as  we 
knew  we  were  only  a  few  miles  from  the  Yarkand  liiver, 
and  thus  the  yaks  had  ample  time  for  a  full  feed.  I  set 
out  before  the  rest  of  the  company,  and  when  Mohammed 
.loo  and  the  boy  overtook  me  I  l)e<;an  to  question  the 
latter.  He  stated  that  Yul  Bash  was  intimately  accjuainted 
with  the  whole  of  this  region,  and  he  described  to  me  an 
cisier  route  to  Pihpcrt  than  that  hy  which  we  had  travelled 
from  that  place.  This  new  route  lay  up  the  side-valley 
we  had  seen  near  our  last  bivouac  ;  it  jn-esented  no  dil1i- 
culty  on  account  of  jiuigli',  oi"  tlu>  absence  of  water  or  of 
fuel,  and  if  we  travi'lled  by  this  route  four  (]:iys  would 
be  sutticient  for  the  return  journey. 

1  had  hoped  to  find  the  lower  part  of  the  Misgan  valley 
fairly  easy,  but  in  this  1  was  disappointed.  In  many 
places  the  jungle  was  very  dense,  and  when  the  baggage 
reached  the  camp  on  the  right  bank  of  the  ^'arkaIl(l  iJiver. 
ai)Out  a  mile  below  the  Misgan  vallcN.  it  had  a  sorry 
:il)pearance.  The  i)ags  containing  my  bedding,  my 
clothes,  and  the  nicirs  kit  were  literally  in  I'ibboiis  with 
their  contents  [)rotruding.  while  the  yak  dans  and  the 
mule  truid<  were  seratehed  and  torn.  These  incidents, 
however,  were  but  trifles  now  that  1  was  eamping  at  my 
goal.  IMiis  sj)ot,  ."i?"  '1'  noiih  latitude,  was  only  about 
twelve  miles  from  Cainj)  (•J(t.  yet  to  reach  it  I  had 
marclutl     for    ten     days,     had    covered    most    execrable 


25-^     /.V    TIllIiT  AXn    CniXliSli    rrRKliS  TAX 

Country,  and  had  crossed  live  ])assi's,  one  ol'  wliirli  was 
al)()iit  IT), .').■)()  feet  high.  Our  camp  (187)  was  pleasantly 
situated  at  an  open  part  of  the  valley,  where  we  found 
abundance  of  good  dry  driftwood  and,  not  far  off,  a  little 
kaniish  grass.  It  was  necessary  to  halt  for  a  day  to  rest 
the  tired  yaks  and  to  await  the  arrival  of  some  fresh  ones. 
In  my  sunny  quarters  T  spent  the  time  mainly  in  checking 


I.OOKINC;    DOWN    Tin;    VAM.KY    OK    THK    YAllKANK    HIVKH    KltOM    THK    MOITH 
THK    MISfiAN   .IILr.A. 


the  errors  of  the  clu^onometers  by  means  f)f  a  system  of 
latitudes  and  an  azimuth  of  about  180°  to  the  pillar 
erected  in  the  previous  winter  close  to  the  Topa  Dawan. 
liam  Singh  spent  the  day  profitably  in  sketching,  and  the 
yak-men  roughly  repaired  the  much-injured  baggage. 

To  determine  the  thickness  of  tlie  ice  on  the  Yarkand 
Kiver,  which,  under  the  high  vertical  bank  close  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Misgan  Jilga,  was  nearly  frozen  across,  I 


ror.i  D.iw.ix.  253 

made  two  holes  in  tlie  iee.  The  first,  about  "iU  IVet  from 
llie  bank,  showed  ice  '10  inches  thick  ;  the  second,  in  mid- 
stream, sliovved  ice  about  <>  inehi's  tliick  l)ut  covered  with 
frozen  snow  about  0  inches  in  deptli.  W'lien  the  holes 
were  made  there  was  an  escape  of  air  which,  from  the 
noise  it  made,  a[)[)eared  to  iiave  been  under  considerable 
pressure,  probably  sli«,ditly  iiicicascd  by  my  weit,'ht  on  the 
ice. 

The  mail  who  had  been  sent  for  fresh  yak  returned  in 
the  afternoon  with  four  animals,  and  Yul  Bash  had  an 
opportunity  either  to  offer  or  to  decline  to  lead  us  back  to 
I'iiipert  by  another  route.  Without  telliufj;  him  how  much 
I  knew,  I  (piestioned  Vul  about  tlie  proposed  route,  and 
found  that  his  replies  were  repetitions  of  the  statements 
made  by  the  lK)y.  We  all  hooked  forward  with  much 
pleasure  to  the  i-eturn  journey,  foi-  the  four  marchfs 
which  it  would  reipiire  and  the  four  passes  which  wduld 
have  to  be  crossed  seemed  easy  com])ared  with  the  labour 
we  had  undergone  during  our  ten  days'  journey  hither. 
Mohammed  Joo  went  so  far  as  to  say  that,  if  we  returned 
i)y  the  old  route,  the  baggage  would  vanish  piece-meal 
before  the  journ(>y's  end.  It  was  satisfactory  also  that 
neither  Ivam  Sini^h  nor  1  would  lia\(!  to  ascend  to  tlif 
Topa  l)awan  by  the  steep  track,  which  sei-nied  to  be 
similar  to  the  descent  fi"om  the  Tugadir  Pass  to  Sanglash. 
Jiow  'I'ahir  lU'g  and  thr  Kirghiz  i'ontri\t'<l  to  get  their 
animals  up  the  track  to  the  Topa  l>awan  1  do  not  know, 
but,  as  no  ilead  bodii's  were  found  below  in  the  jungle,  it 
is  reasonable  to  infer  that  they  succeeded. 

From  Camp  V-M  we  noticed,  on  the  oppositi'  baid<  of 
the  river,  a  well-marked  track  leading  jirobably  to  Ma/.ar 
Sultan  by  way  of  the  Tshdir  I'as.s.  which  was  said  to  bi- 
good.  This  track  doubtless  came  from  the  head  (»f  the 
Mariong  valley.  The  track  on  the  right  baidx,  according 
to   Yul   IJash.  led    to    I'il,  and   was   practicabh>   only   for 


254     /-V    TIBET  AXD   CHIXESE    TCKKESTAN. 

ponies  ;  but,  acccmlin^^  to  a  further  statement  (probably 
true)  elicited  by  questionint,^  the  same  authority,  the 
track  is  possible  also  foi-  a  yak. 

Leaving  the  Misgan  Jilga  a  little  below  Camp  18(),  we 
turned  up  the  Yurzanuk  valley,  where  in  some  places  the 
jungle  was  very  dense  and  troublesome.  Under  the  tall, 
thick  grass  there  was  hidden  a  very  narrow  and  dry 
watercourse,  into  which  one  of  the  yaks  fell.  The  animal 
dropped  almost  entirely  out  of  sight,  only  his  head  and 
the  load  he  carried  remaining  visible.  The  banks  were  so 
close  together  that  he  could  scarcely  move,  and  it  was 
with  great  difficulty  that  he  could  be  hfted.  All  the  men 
were  required  to  bear  a  hand,  and  at  length,  after  much 
expenditure  of  labour  and  of  native  oaths,  the  yak  was  set 
on  his  feet  on  the  bank.  Our  first  day's  march  was  short, 
for  we  considered  it  prudent  to  camp  at  a  spot  where 
grass,  fuel,  and  water  were  found  in  sufficient  quantities, 
though  the  spring  which  supplied  the  water  was  frozen 
almost  solid,  and  the  camping-ground  was  so  narrow  that 
it  did  not  contain  level  ground  enough  for  one  tent. 

The  men  were  now  apparently  desirous  of  reaching 
home,  and  gave  no  trouble  when  I  urged  them  to  start 
early  in  the  morning.  We  were  still  on  ground  familiar 
to  the  yak-men,  one  of  whom,  though  persistently  dis- 
claiming all  knowledge  of  the  country,  had  his  home  only 
four  miles  up  the  valley  from  Canqi  l.'^iS.  There  he  lived 
in  company  with  some  shei)lierds  from  ])ia,  one  of  whom 
was  uncle  to  Yul  Bash,  and  their  winter  encampment  of 
two  wretched  huts  in  the  midst  of  a  scene  of  desolation 
was  like  a  picture  of  forlorn  misery.  Even  fuel  and  grass 
were  scarce,  and,  as  there  was  no  stream  or  spring  within 
four  miles,  they  had  to  obtain  water  from  melted  snow. 

From  a  peak  slightly  higher  than  the  Yurzanuk  Pass 
a  wide  view  was  obtained,  embracing  some  of  the  peaks 
already  fixed,  and  Kam  Singh  was  able  to  sketch  a  good 


nr  PORTA  XT    TOPOGRArHIC    WORK. 


-55 


di'jil  of  country,  while  I  rendered  assistance  by  determining 
astronomically  the  positions  of  the  camps  in  the  deep, 
narrow,  stony  valleys.  In  tlie  valley  belovi^  Camp  139  we 
saw  many  yak,  which.  I  was  told,  belonged  to  Mariong 
people  and  were  left  unwatched  during  the  winter.  The 
men  affirmed  also  that  tlie  track  leading  down  the  valley 
to  Mariong  was  practicable  only  for  men,  but  this  state- 
ment was  scarcely  credible,  for  it  was  improbable  that 
the  Mariong  people  would  take  their  herds  by  a  route  so 
circuitous  as  that  by  Sanglash  and  Pilipert. 

Soon  after  leaving  Camp  139  we  encountered  a  steep 
ascent  of  'J, 400  feet  to  the  top  of  the  Furzanuk  Pass, 
wliich,  with  its  nari'ow  and  |iiT(M|)itous  zigzag  tracks, 
seen  from  the  opposite  side  of  the  valley,  appeared 
piacticable  for  no  animals  larger  than  sheep  or  goats. 
On  i-Ujser  acquaintance,  however,  the  ground  proved  not 
so  very  difficult.  From  this  pass,  14,800  feet,  we  had  to 
descend  into  a  valley  where  several  yak  were  grazing,  and 
thence  to  ascend  about  700  feet  to  the  Yetin  Kozay  Pass. 
The  topographic  work  in  this  neighbourhood  was  impor- 
tant, and,  though  the  temperature  was  very  low,  Kaiii 
Singh  manfully  continued  his  sketching  without  suffering 
from  frost-bite. 

Setting  out  from  Camp  14(1  at  cighl  o'clock  in  the 
morning  for  tin-  last  day's  march  to  Pilipert,  we  experi- 
enced some  inconvenience  from  the  veiy  fine  snow  whiih 
then  liegan  to  fall,  "and  which  froze  on  my  head  and 
moustache,  and  even  on  my  eyelashes.  \\  the  top  of 
Adam  Tuamos  Pass,  l(),or)0  feet,  where  the  tciiiporature 
was  about  —  4"  P.,  or  thirty-six  degrees  below  the  freezing- 
point,  and  a  strong  wind  was  blowing,  we  boiled  thermo- 
meters. There  was  some  little  shelter  from  the  wind, 
i)ut,  nevci'thcless.  my  feet  hcc-imc  cold  very  ra})idly,  foi' 
my  woollen  socks  were  so  torn  and  worn  and  ])atched 
and    mended,    that    they    wer(>     little    hettei-    than    mere 


256     AV    rnUil'  AM)   CmXESE    '/'['RKHSTAN. 

remnants  of  tlieir  lonuer  selves.  The  descent  to  Pilipert 
was  not  steep,  but  was  stony  and  slippery  from  the  new- 
fallen  snow.  Karly  in  the  afternoon  we  reached  Pilipert, 
and  I  was  cheered  b}'  the  sight  of  a  supply  of  firewood 
outside  one  of  the  stone  huts  This  firewood  indicated 
more  than  fiul.  for  I  had  instructed  the  men  who  took 
the  ponies  and  donkeys  to  the  Kulan  Urgi  valley  to  urge 
my  friends  among  the  Kirghiz  at  Zad,  to  send  to  this 
place  two  loads  of  \\ood  and  also  several  yaks  to  carry 
my  baggage  into  their  valley.  On  reaching  Pilipert  my 
appearance  was  like  that  of  Father  Christmas,  for,  to  say 
nothing  of  my  clothes,  my  beard  and  moustache  were 
white  with  snow  and  fringed  with  icicles.  Entering  the 
only  unoccupied  stone  hut,  I  seated  myself  on  the  ground 
before  a  large  fire  and,  though  the  cold  wind  easily  pene- 
trated the  roughly-built  walls  and  chilled  the  side  of  my 
body  which  happened  to  be  turned  away  from  the  fire,  I 
soon  cleared  my  visage  and  prepared  for  work.  The 
chnidy,  snowy  weather  was  inauspicious,  but  never- 
theless, being  desirous  of  making  observations  for  rating 
purposes,  I  unpacked  the  theodolite  and  waited  patiently 
for  the  sun  to  shine  forth  in  his  brightness.  That  orb, 
however,  sank  in  obscurity  behind  the  mountain-tops, 
and,  chilled  and  disappointed,  I  turned  in  to  dinner.  Of 
that  repast  I  partook  in  comparative  comfort,  with  a  kit- 
bag  for  a  chair,  my  knees  for  a  table,  and  the  caravan 
men  scattered  about  in  various  attitudes  for  company. 
The  dining-hut  was  draughty  with  freezing  currents  oi 
air,  but  on  the  whole  the  conditions  were  satisfactory, 
and  my  equannnity  was  restored.  Going  outside  again, 
I  saw  the  shining  stars,  made  the  necessary  observations 
and  computations,  and  then  with  a  mind  at  ease  had  a 
bright  fire  lighted  in  front  of  my  tent,  so  that  I  might 
enjoy  its  cheerful  glow.  Among  my  stores  I  found 
supplies  suitable    to  the   occasion,    and,    sitting   on   the 


NATIVliS   R/i/'CS/i    /XfOA'JfJT/ON.      257 

^^'roiiiul  :it  my  trnt  door,  waiiiiin^  my  Iocs  iit  the  tire 
1111(1  my  inner  man  with  hot  ^'ro<,r,  wliich,  of  course,  I 
shared  with  others,  I  Hstened  to  the  lesults  of  in(iuiries 
concerning  our  future  course.  Mohunnned  -loo,  a  wily 
native  of  Sin-Chiang,  thoroughly  acquainted  with  the 
people,  had  heen  instructed  to  offer  a  large  reward  in 
money  for  information  concerning  the  routes  in  this 
mountainous  region.  He  now  squatted  heside  me  and, 
sheltered  from  the  cold  wind  hy  the  tent  door,  told  me 
what  success  had  followed  his  efforts.  The  sum  of  his 
news  was  simply  this— that  he  had  got  Jione.  Once  he 
had  seemed  on  the  point  of  obtaining  information  from  a 
Tajik  yak-man,  but  the  conversation  had  been  overheard 
by  another  Tajik,  who  prom])tly  ordered  his  compatriot 
to  hold  his  peace.  Tajiks,  from  my  own  sad  experience, 
I  knew  to  be  liars,  l)ut  these  yak-men  were  remarkably 
true  to  one  another.  Evidently  there  was  a  compact 
amongst  them,  and  not  even  the  temptation  of  a  large 
reward  induced  them  to  describe,  or  even  to  mention,  the 
direct  route  from  Mariong  to  the  west  end  of  Kaskam. 
Such  information  as  T  obtaini'd  came  from  the  yak-driver 
boy,  who  was  not  a  Tajik.  Next  morning  1  had  to  clear 
up  and  settle  accounts  with  the  Tajiks,  ami  tlii^  1  did 
before  the  blazing  fire  while  waiting  for  llic  Knulii/.  lo 
load  their  yaks.  The  one  debt  indisputably  due  was  for 
the  hire  of  the  yaks  and  yak-men,  but  besides  this  I  was 
at  liberty  to  take  into  account  the  services  which  had 
been  rendered  by  the  men  individually.  On  ascertaining 
the  owners  and  the  amount  lobe  paid  foi- the  use  of  the 
animals,  1  was  surprised  to  find  that  not  one  of  the  yaks 
i)elonged  to  Yul  IJash.  who  till  that  moment  had  asserted 
that  he  had  supjtlird  scncimI  of  thein.  I  ]>ai(l  to  each 
owner  the  full  amount  due,  at  tlir  full  rate,  giving  no 
gratuity,  and  then  handed  to  il)r  boy.  as  backslu'csb,  a 
sum  of  money  sufficient   to  |»in(lias(>  two  goats.     It   had 

18 


23^^     A^'    /7/'7:/'  .IX/)   C/I/X/iSI-     7T/<k'/iSr.\X. 

been  the  boy's  aiiiMliun  lo  Ixhmhiic  the  owner  ot  two 
goats,  and  be  was  niorr  Iban  satisfied  with  his  rcwaid, 
which,  as  I  exphiined  to  the  men,  was  i)estowed  because 
be  bad  always  been  lielpt'ul,  and  nevei*  troublesome.  1 
referred  to  i\\v  hai"d^lii|>>  and  (]elay  tn  which  we  had  heeii 
subjected  l>y  the  stubbornness  and  falsehood  of  the  men. 
to  wdiom  i  would  give  no  backsbeesb,  but  I  acknowledged 
some  little  indebtedness  to  Yul  Bash  for  his  guidance 
from  l)ia  to  Pilipert.  Yul  Basb  looked  with  scoiii  at  the 
pittance  I  gave  him  for  that  service,  and  asserted  w  ith 
great  volubility  that  he  had  l)een  my  guide  to  Kaskam 
an<l  back.  When  lie  had  liiiislied  his  pi'otestations  1 
reminded  iiim  that  he  had  not  guided  me  at  all  during 
the  journey  from  Pilipert  to  Kaskam  and  back  ;  that  he 
bad  persistently  asserted  that  he  knew  nothing  of  the 
country  and  nothing  of  the  route  to  the  \'arkand  liiver, 
which  1  had  discovered  for  myself.  Admitting  that  there 
was  some  truth  in  this,  be  still  claimed  to  have  told  me 
of  the  return  route;  but  here  again  he  was  confnjnttMl 
with  his  own  statement,  for  he  had  told  me  that  he  only 
knew  of  that  route  from  information  supplied  by  the  men 
\\\u)  hrought  the  fresh  yaks  to  Camp  l-">7.  \\\\  iJash  had 
strength  of  cliaracter  and  force  of  will ;  he  was  well  able 
to  play  his  own  game,  and  it  would  have  been  mere 
softness  on  my  part  to  give  him  or  the  men  he  influenced 
any  gratuity  after  the  privations  and  toil  which  had 
resulted  from   their  conduct. 

It  was  without  regret  that  I  set  out  from  Pilipert  lor 
the  more  genial  climate  of  Kulan  Urgi,  where  I  was  sure 
of  a  favourable  reception  at  the  hands  of  ray  friends  the 
Kirghiz.  One  day's  march  had  to  take  me  as  far  as  Issok 
Pulok  Agzi,  and.  with  two  passes  to  cross,  it  was  neces- 
sary to  move  at  a  steady  pace.  The  Piyek  Pass,  about 
1(),000  feet,  presented  a  fairly  gradual  though  very  stony 
ascent,  and  from  its  top  we  obtained  an  excellent   view 


/SS(f/\    /U'LOK    .iCZf.  259 

not  only  of  the  lofty,  snow-c-lad  niii^f  scpiinitin^'  Ivaskam 
from  tlu"  Kulan  I'rf^n  vallt'y,  but  also  of  the  lofty  peaks 
near  the  Kukalun;,'  Pass  and  of  tin-  niii;^'c  on  the  north- 
eastern side  of  the  Kulan  Vv\(\  valley.  By  ascending'  a 
low  peak  close  to  the  pass,  Kam  Singh  was  able  to  see 
mountains  far  (hstant  in  other  (hrections,  and  easily 
identified  Mu/.  Tagh  Ata.  Having  ascertained  the 
altitude  of  the  pass  hy  means  of  the  iiypsometer,  we 
began  the  descent,  which  for  a  couple  of  hundred  feet 
was  very  steei).  but  afterwards  became  easier.  A  little 
beyond  a  spring  of  water  the  track  left  the  valley  and  led 
up  to  anotiier  l)ut  easier  pass,  near  whicli  we  suddenly 
caim'  on  a  herd  of  l)urrhel.  WC  \\<r<'  now  approaching 
level  ground,  and,  as  we  truilged  on  towards  the  entl  of 
our  troubles,  we  tliought  with  complacency  of  the  eleven 
passes,  averaging  about  1  I.OOO  feet,  whicli  \\i'  had  crossed 
in  foiu'teen  marches.  We  had  still  jungle  before  us,  and 
this  retarded  the  progress  of  the  yaks  al<jng  the  narrow 
valley  on  the  south  side  of  the  second  pass,  but  at  length, 
though  darknt'ss  overtook  us,  we  reached  Issok  l^ulok 
Ag/i  without  mishap. 


CHAPTKK    XVI 

My  friends  the  Kirghiz — Kejoiuing  the  curavan — Return  of  Islam — 
Second  Christmas  at  Zad — Down  the  Kulan  Urgi  valley — Tir  re- 
visited— Ice  still  too  weak — Excursions  from  Tir — Cold  bivouacs 
— Frozen  rivers — Tlie  Kuramut  Dawan — Apathy  of  natives — 
(niide  frost-bitten — (Ihosts — Down  the  Yarkand  Kiver — News 
from  Kashgar — Alarm  about  plague — Annoying  natives— Langar 
— Tashkurghan  Ri\er — Narrow  escape  of  caravan — Rotten  ice — 
Bridging — Donkeys  escape  cold  batli — Description  of  valley — 
Sliort  of  money — Bad  part  of  track — Cutting  ice-steps  for  animals 
— The  Kesin  Pass — Surveying  under  difficulties — Evicting  animals 
from  liouse  —  Unpleasant  surroundings  —  No  water  —  An  un- 
expected meeting — Crossing  the  Teriart  Rivei- — Waterproofing  my 
garments — Curious  cavities  in  rocks — Sending  news  to  Kashgar  - 
Task  completed — Back  to  Chumdi — Up  the  Asgan  Sal  valley — 
Robbery  by  Chinese  official — Completion  of  journey — Return  to 
Yarkand. 

A  T  Issok  ISulok  Ag/i  it  was  necessary  to  halt  for  a 
-*-*-  (lay  that  the  men  might  repair  their  cherooks,  which 
had  become  quite  dilapidated.  So  lofty  and  precipitous 
were  the  walls  of  the  narrow  valle}'  that  the  winter  sun 
was  visible  only  for  about  three  hours  a  day,  but  there 
was  abundance  of  firewood,  and  we  cheered  ourselves 
with  blazing  camp-fires.  I  now  obtained  a  much  more 
satisfactory  chronometric  value  for  the  longitude  of  the 
place  than  I  had  formerly  been  able  to  obtain,  and  I  was 
anxious  to  revisit  Zad,  to  check  the  longitude  I  had 
assigned  to  that  spot,  and  also  that  of  Bazar  Dara,  which 

was  connected  witli  Zad  by  triangulation. 

200 


A7:;/(V.\7.\V/     /■///:■    (.1  A'.}  I'.l X.  261 

As  on  the  iiioriiiiii,'  ol"  the  secoiul  day  CTiil'tar  had  iioi 
arrived  with  the  ponies,  we  loaded  tlie  yaks  with  our 
hai?ga«,'e.  and  started  to  rejoin  the  caravan.  When  within 
a  few  miles  of  Kiziljy  (or  Camp  '2"))  I  met  the  ex-Beg  of 
the  district,  liis  tent  heing  ch)se  to  my  route.  He  invited 
me  to  enter,  apoh)«,Msing  foi*  not  having  given  me  a  snit- 
ahh'  rt!ception,  and  expressing  the  hope  tlial  I  was  not 
annoyed  at  the  aljsence  of  formahty,  winch,  he  assured 
me,  was  (hie  solely  to  his  desire  to  avoid  the  a])pearance 
of  asking  for  my  intercession  with  the  Cliincse  for  his 
remstatement  in  (tfhcc.  I  made  out  that  the  reason  of 
his  dismissal  had  heeii  the  permission  he  had  granted 
lo  tilt'  K'anjuts  to  oct'Upy  and  cuhnaic  llic  land  at  Azgar. 
This  invitation  was  connected,  though  ordy  remotely, 
with  tht!  Kanjut  (juestion,  but  to  decline  it  would  have 
l)een  ofVensive.  and  entering  his  tent  I  seated  myself  on  a 
nunmah  in  front  of  a  small  fire  which  gave  his  ahode 
a  cosy  look.  He  produced  excellent  chapatties  fried  in 
huttcM-;  hut  the  tea,  whicli  had  been  stewing  for  a  long 
time  in  a  dirty-looking  copper  vessel,  called  a  "  cliagan."' 
was  str(»nger  than  1  could  swallow.  The  weather  hap- 
])ened  to  he  uncommoidy  wai'm,  the  shade  temperature 
at  -2  i>.m.  being  2K"  !•'..  and  on  this  ground  I  l>t'ggcd  to  be 
excused  the  driid<ing  of  llie  hot  tea.  My  host's  wife  and 
daughters,  oiu'  of  whom  was  (piite  pretty,  were  not  at  all 
discomposed  by  my  presenc(>,  but  c-ontinued  their  domestic 
duties  while  listening  to  the  i-onversation.  'I'hen  old 
friends  from  Zad  came  in  and  gave  nu'  interesting  infor- 
mation conceining  the  country  and  the  routes.  1  detailed 
my  rei-eiit  experiences,  and  had  the  consolation  of  listening 
to  vehement  demnu'iationsof  the  Tajiks,  who  were  roundly 
descrilx'd  as  liars  and  the  olTspring  of  liars.  One  of  the 
t'ompany  informed  nie  tliat  he  had  tra\-elled  three  times 
along  the  easy  route  which,  fi'om  Mariong  to  Serai  (or 
Camp   VM')),  was  only  a  three  days"  jouriu>y.  practicable 


362     /X    TIBET  AND  CHINESE    TURKESTAN. 

for  laden  aiiiinals  at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  Tliis  waf?  the 
route  by  wiiicli  T  liad  wisJR'd  to  travel,  but  in  summer 
the  Yarkand  Kiver  would  probably  be  impassable  for 
ba^ga^e  animals.  Fi'om  Serai,  they  told  me,  there  was 
an  easy  route  over  the  Ushdir  Pass,  practicable  for  laden 
animals  (except  after  a  heavy  fall  of  snow),  separating,  on 
the  west  side  of  th(>  pass,  into  two  tracks,  one  of  which 
went  to  llisu  and  the  other  to  Mazar  Sultan.  The  valley 
in  which  Camps  loo  and  1:36  were  situated,  known  to 
Tajiks  as  INIisgan,  or  Miskan,  was  called  Misgar  by  the 
Kirghiz.  Tahir  Beg  and  the  Kirghiz  had  tried  to  reach 
Easkam  by  the.Fortash  route,  but  liad  failed  owing  to  the 
deep  snow  on  the  Kokoi  Kochkar  Pass. .  Across  the  high 
snow-clad  range  between  Kulan  Urgi  and  Kaskam  there 
was  no  route.  The  Kirghiz,  I  was  surprised  to  find,  pre- 
ferred the  Misgar  route  to  that  by  Bazar  Dara ;  they 
disliked  the  fords  of  the  Yarkand  Kiver  between  Bazar 
1  )ara  and  Surukwat,  and  would  never  travel  by  that  route 
in  winter  unless  when  accompanying  me.  I  asked  my 
host  how  the  Chinese  authorities  regarded  the  visits  of 
Europeans,  and  he  assured  me  that  they  had  sent  strict 
orders  that  any  British  traveller  who  might  visit  their 
neighbourhood  should  be  hospitably  received  and  assisted. 
In  my  case  the  Kirghiz  heartily  carried  out  these  instruc- 
tions, not  for  any  reason  personal  to  myself,  but  on 
account  of  my  nationality,  and  also  on  account  of  their 
pleasant  memories  of  Younghusband.  The  ex-Beg  fre- 
quently asked  me  for  news  of  this  distinguished  traveller, 
who,  lie  told  \\\(\  was  affectionately  remembered  and  held 
in  great  respect  among  them. 

On  issuing  from  the  tent  I  found  the  caravan  waiting 
for  me,  and,  having  journeyed  for  a  short  distance,  we 
camped  at  Kizil.  In  the  evening  Islam  returned  from 
his  mission  to  Tashkurghan,  bringing  thirty  sarrs  (about 
eighty  rupees)  which  he  had  borrowed  for  me.     He  re- 


SliCOXn    C//A'/S'/.U.IS   .IT  ZAP.  263 

ported  tluit  the  Clujw-Jvuiiii  had  hecoiiie  more  suspicions 
of  me,  had  sent  to^^'i^cha  first  a  liumhle  official  to  inquii-e 
whether  I  had  »iven  any  troiihle  to  the  inhahitants,  or 
taken  supphes  without  paying  for  them,  and,  hater,  a  Beg 
to  ascertain  what  I  had  been  doing  in  Wacha,  and  in 
what  places  I  had  erected  pillars.  I  had,  at  tlie  time  of 
my  visit,  fortunately  told  Sher  Mohammed  and  the  Ming 
Bashi  of  Wacha  that  the  pillars  ceased  to  be  of  any  use 
as  soon  as  I  departed  from  the  locality,  and  that  any  one 
who  cared  for  mountain  exercise  was  at  perfect  liberty  to 
level  them  with  the  ground. 

On  Christmas  Day,  1898,  T  was  once  more  at  Zad  and 
in  occupation  of  the  same  tent  (ak  oey,  literally  white 
house)  in  which  J  had,  in  solitude,  spent  the  Christmas 
of  1897.  Dass,  the  cook,  knew  that  Christmas  was  the 
Sahib's  burra  din  (or  holy  day),  which  to  his  professional 
mind  was  synonymous  with  a  day  of  feasting.  He 
inquired  what  he  should  prepare  for  dinner,  suggesting, 
among  other  things,  a  plum-pudding.  1  expressed  no 
preference  for  this  article  of  diet,  but  Dass  was  desirous 
of  showing  his  skill,  and  plum-pudding  was  prepared. 
The  main  or  only  ingredients  were  the  shakings  of  the 
biscuit-bag,  ghee,  sugar,  and  a  few  currants.  The  process 
of  manufacture  was  simple  :  the  ingredients  were  stirred 
together,  heated  over  a  fire,  emptied  into  a  pudding-dish, 
decorated  with  a  few  l)readcrund)s.  sliglitK  baked,  and 
then  served.  If  the  result  was  not  perfectly  satisfactory 
my  respect  for  the  cook  was  undiminished,  and  I  found 
compensation  in  the  beverage  which  had  been  carefully 
reserved  for  this  day's  feast. 

It  happened  that  the  Beg  of  Zad  had  gone  with  Tahir 
Beg  to  attend  to  official  duties  at  a  distance,  and  I  had 
the  honour  of  receiving  a  visit  fi'om  his  wife,  wlio  came  to 
state  the  reason  of  lier  husband's  non-appearance.  He 
would  have  attended  to  my  wants  personally  had  he  not 


264     /■^'    /V/.7:"/'   J.W)    C///\/:S/-:    I  (' /< KliSTA X. 

been  absent.  Imt  liis  wile,  a  kind  and  ^Miod  woman,  niadf 
amends  by  sendinj^f  chapatties  fried  in  bnttcr.  and  lassi 
(a  sort  of  curd),  about  all  she  had  to  offer.  The  people  are 
poor,  with  little  or  no  money  to  spend,  and  they  liye 
mostly  on  the  proceeds  of  a  few  months'  labour  in 
sunnuer.  The  principal  articles  of  consumption  are  pre- 
parations of  milk  and  Indian  corn,  and  the  fact  that  they 
thriye  on  such  diet  shows  that  they  are  possessed  of 
wonderful  ditj^estiye  powder.  Tea,  flour,  and  rice  are 
delicacies  too  costly  to  be  used  except  on  rare  occasions. 
The  household  articles  which  came  under  my  obseryation 
in  tlie  tents  of  the  poorer  people  were  some  coarse 
numnahs,  some  plain,  others  ornamented,  pillow's,  a  large 
cooking-pot,  supported  on  an  iron  tripod,  and  a  couple  of 
"chagans."  If  the  weather  happened  to  be  hot  a  few^ 
spare  coats  would  be  lying  about.  The  tents  were  of 
simple  construction,  consisting  of  one  main  room,  of  which 
a  small  part  was  separated  by  a  screen  of  reeds  to  serve 
as  a  store-room.  There  was  no  woman's  quarter  ;  the 
two  sexes  mixed  freely  together,  morality  as  understood 
in  l^urope  being  non-existent.  The  ex-Beg's  tent  at 
Ki/il.  and  the  tent  which  1  occupied  at  Zad  were 
nuich  neater  than  those  in  general  use,  and  were  orna- 
mented with  a  border  of  reeds,  arranged  vertically  to 
a  lieighl  of  about  four  feet  from  the  gi'ound.  The  tent 
I  occupied  at  Zad  contained  two  piles  of  ornamented 
nunniahs,  and  it  had  an  air  of  comfort  which  indicated 
comparative  wealth  on  the  part  of  the  owner,  probably 
not  acquired  by  any  enterprise  of  his  own,  but  rather 
saved  out  of  tlie  s(]ueezings  he  had  effected  during  his 
period  of  office  as  J^>i'g. 

The  Kulan  Urgi  valley  below  Issok  ]^)ulok  Ag/i 
contains  few  Kirghiz,  and,  according  to  all  accounts, 
the  valley  down  to  that  encampment  is,  during  summer, 
forsaken  by  nearly  all  its  inhabitants.     When  the  warm 


/;(>/r.\'  run  kc/.ax  crc/  \\\ /././■: v.    zcr^ 

weather  and  the  lon^^  days  set  in,  the  people  lui^^'alr  with 
all  their  herds  to  the  pastures  in  the  nei^dihourhood  of 
the  Yarkand-Leli  trade  iDute.  There  the  yaks  are  hired 
hy  the  Indian  traders  for  the  transport  of  j^oods  alongj  the 
ditticult  portions  of  the  route;  the  Kirj^'hiz  are  paid 
mostly  in  kind,  and  when  tlie  season  for  traffic  ends 
they  return  to  tlieir  valley  with  supplies  for  the  winter. 

One  ni^ht  at  Zad  was  sufficient  for  taking  the  requisite 
observations,  and  on  the  following  morning  I  set  out  for 
Tir,  where  I  intended  to  have  my  headquarters  for  several 
days.  ^larching  down  the  Kulan  Urgi  valley,  I  met  the 
]^eg  of  Zad,  and  with  liini  the  men  who  had  preceded 
me  over  the  Mamakul  Pass  to  Kaskam.  They  told  me 
that  the  route  had  been  known  to  only  one  of  their  party, 
and  that  they  had  found  the  utmost  difficulty  in  taking 
their  ponies  up  the  glacier  at  the  head  of  the  Pil  valley. 
Their  yaks  had  become  so  tired  and  footsore  that  they  had 
to  1)6  taken  to  a  patch  of  grass  in  the  Kulan  Urgi  valley 
and  left  to  rest.  The  men  would  never  willingly  take  that 
route  again. 

As  I  approached  Tir,  the  \u/.  1  Jashi  of  whicli  had  l)een 
beaten  on  account  of  the  trouble  he  had  caused  me  a  year 
before,  I  could  not  help  considering  wlietlier  the  reception 
awaiting  me  would  be  favoui'al)le  or  the  reverse.  AVhen 
still  several  miles  from  the  village  1  saw  :i  large  nundu'r 
of  people  coming  towards  me.  and  on  meeting  tluMii  1 
foimd  that  theii-  pur)>ose  was  to  welcome  me.  Among 
tlu  ni  was  th(^  ex-Vuz  liashi,  who  showed  no  animosity, 
but.  on  th(»  contrary,  expi'essed  his  pleasun>  at  my  return, 
and  promised  to  acconiiiany  me  on  my  excursions  to  the 
Knramiit  and  Saiuhil  Passes,  where  I  meant  to  test  the 
stat(Mnents  ot  the  Asgan  Sal  villagers  as  to  the  merits  of 
tlu>  respective  routes. 

I''rom  Issok  I'.ulok  Agzi  1  had  sent  a  man  to  examine 
the  ice  on  the  Yarkand  Piver  and  ascertain  whether  it  was 


266     /X    TllU-.r   A.y/)    (7//.\7-S/:    TCR K RSTA X. 

strong  enough  to  hvAv  the  wt'ight  oi'  tlu;  caravan.  At  Tir 
I  received  his  report  that  the  ice  below  the  mouth  of  the 
Kiilan  Urgi  river  was  still  too  weak,  and  as  there  was 
thus  no  need  to  hasten  from  my  present  quarters  I  set 
about  my  purposed  investigation  of  the  neiglilM)Uih()od. 
My  first  excursion  was  to  Tarim  1  joko,  at  the  foot  of  the 
long  and  steep  ascent  to  the  Kuramut  Pass.  It  was  for- 
tunate that  we  took  with  us  only  very  few  yaks,  for  the 
place  was  desolate,  grass  scarce,  and  the  track  slippery 
and  stony.  Close  beside  a  frozen  stream  we  found  some 
rocks  slightly  overhanging,  and  beneath  their  shelter  we 
spent  two  comfortless  nights.  Eam  Singh  and  I  ascended 
to  the  top  of  the  pass,  which  was  at  once  bare,  sharp,  and 
rugged,  suggesting  the  edge  of  a  huge  razor  sunk  between 
fragments  of  scattered  rock.  The  place  was  swept  by  a 
strong  wind,  and  at  noon,  with  a  bright  sun  shining,  the 
temperature  was  at — 5°  F.,  oi"  tliirty-seven  degrees  below 
the  freezing-point,  liam  Singh's  sketching  was  carried 
on  with  \ery  great  difficulty.  To  screen  him  and  the 
plane-table  from  the  wind  a  felt  rug  was  held  up  by  two 
Ijadakis,  but  they,  haidy  though  they  were,  suffered  from 
the  united  effects  of  a  high  w  ind  and  a  low  temperature. 
On  this  day  Islam  had  set  out  for  Yarakand  for  money 
and  provisions.  He  had  crossed  the  Kuramut  Pass  and 
gone  some  distance  beyon<l  it  under  the  guidance  of  a 
boy,  wlioni  T  had  ordered  to  spend  the  night  at  the  first 
village  iji  the  Asgan  Sal  valley,  and  on  no  account  to 
attempt  to  return  the  same  day.  Next  morning  when  I 
awoke  I  was  surprised  and  annoyed  to  hear  the  voice  of 
this  boy.  He  was  wretchedly  clothed,  and  yet,  disregard- 
ing my  instructions,  he  had  recrossed  the  pass  in  the 
small  hours  of  the  morning,  when  the  temperature  must 
have  been  quite  twenty  degrees  below  zero.  A\nien  I 
asked  him  if  he  was  frost-bitten,  he  said  no,  he  was  all 
right  ;  and  when  I  questioned  him  about  his  reason  for 


MWrilY    Ol-    XAT/l'/iS.  269 

rt'turnm;;  ;ii  iii«,'lit  contnuv  to  my  orders,  he  astonished 
me  l)y  saying'  that  hetweeii  Tarim  lioko  and  Tir  there 
was  a  dreadful  j^diost  (or  spirit  of  some  sort),  and  that  he 
had  hastened  l>aek  that  he  mi^dit  not  iiave  to  travel  over 
that  part  of  the  way  alone.  A«,Minst  undue  risks  from 
want,  exposure,  and  other  dan^'ers  of  the  way  1  could,  in 
•,'eneral.  make  adecjuatr  provision,  hut  dan^^'ers  arising' 
from  ghosts  were  (juite  heyond  my  reckoning,  though  it 
was  now  t'vident  that  they  ought  not  to  be  ignored. 

When  I  went  back  to  Tir  several  of  the  villagers,  none 
of  whom  i)ossessed  more  than  the  bare  means  of  subsist- 
ence,  complained  to  me  that  a  Chinaman  who  had  come 
amongst  them  two  days  before  was  living  at  their  ex- 
pense. This  man  had  given  out  first  that  he  was  a  clerk 
to  the  Chow-Kuan  of  Karghalik  ;  then,  that  he  was  a 
soldier;  and  when  he  came  to  visit  me  he  stated  that  he 
was  a  colltcttu*  of  petty  taxes.  lie  appeari'd  to  be  n<i 
better  than  an  in)postor.  and  I  advised  tin-  villagers  to 
send  one  or  two  of  their  number  to  Karghalik  to  lay  their 
complaint  before  the  Chow-Kuan.  JUit  in  Tir,  as  in  other 
parts  of  the  world,  everybody's  business  was  nobody's 
business,  iind  the  Celestial  continued  to  live  on  the  best, 
paying  not  a  dachen  for  his  sui)i)lies.  'I'lie  \illagers, 
calling  the  man  a  robber,  and  thinking  that  lOuropeans 
possessed  unbounded  inthieni-e.  begged  me  to  do  some- 
thing ft)r  them,  on  the  ^'lound  that  they  could  do  nothing 
for  themselves.  About  two  yeais  before  this  they  had 
had  a  ilispute  with  the  Kirghiz  respecting  some  grazing 
ground  on  the  Ha/ar  Dara  side  of  the  Kukalung  Pass. 
Tlu-y  had  drawn  up  in  their  own  languagt*  a  [)etiti(>n  to 
the  Chow-Kuan,  setting  forth  their  claims;  this  ilocu- 
iiu'nt  they  placed  in  the  hands  of  the  (tlVuial  interpreter 
for  translation  and  presentation  to  the  nuigislrati* ;  but 
the  int(>ri)reter  had  been  got  at  hy  the  Kirghiz,  and  waiti'd 
for  a   bribe   fri>ni  Tir  as  an   induceini-nt  to  pi-rform  his 


I 


270    /.\'  riiii-:r  .wn  ciiixuse  rrRKHSTAW 

orticial  duties.  Tlie  Tir  villa^^crs  could  not  afford  so  lar^e 
a  bribe  as  the  Kirjjfhiz  had  ^dven,  so  the  interpreter  waited 
and  waited  till  the  matter  dropped  out  of  sight,  and  the 
Kirghiz  gained  their  point.  Whatever  might  have  been 
the  merits  of  either  case,  I  plainly  could  not  interfere 
between  the  Tir  villagers  and  the  Chinese;  and  on  my 
telling  them  so  they  expressed  keen  disappointment. 

My  next  excursion  was  to  the  Sandal  I'ass,  where  J\ani 
Singh  sketched  while  1  took  observations  at  Keslnia. 
When  my  work  was  done  1  sat  in  front  of  the  camp-fii'e 
and  cluitted  with  the  men,  asking  them  questions  and 
now  and  then  making  commonplace  statements,  which 
they  were  far  too  knowing  to  accept.  It  was  interesting 
to  notice  that  the  more  circumscribed  the  knowledge  of 
the  men,  the  more  incredulous  they  were,  showing  an 
intellectual  honesty  which,  in  these  days,  was  refreshing. 
Two  of  my  Ladakis  told  me  that  they  had  never  been 
further  south  than  Kashmir,  and  they  were  as  innocent 
of  modern  improvements  as  were  the  men  of  Tir,  who 
had  never  been  beyond  their  own  valleys.  They  might 
possibly  have  heard  of  railway  trains,  but  that  these  were 
driven  by  steam  they  could  not  believe.  Bullocks  or 
ponies  hidden  by  the  carriages  might,  they  tliouglit, 
somehcjw  drag  them  along,  but  beyond  this  perfectly 
rational  position  these  children  of  Nature^  would  not  go. 
A\'hile  they  rejected  my  statements,  their  looks  said 
more  i)laiidy  than  words,  "  ]Jo  you  suppose  that  we 
are  fools  V  " 

In  a  third  excur.sicjn  we  bivouacked  in  the  main  valley, 
which  presented  no  features  of  sufficient  interest  to  be 
here  described.  Kam  Singh  and  I  had  now  seen  and 
surveyed  the  region  :  we  had  ascended  tlie  Yarkand  Kiver 
from  Tir  to  a  point  almost  in  sight  of  Sanglash,  and  from 
Bazar  Dara  downwards,  except  for  a  few  miles,  we  were 
familiar  with  that  portion  of  the  river.     It  was  therefore 


(ic/n/i  /' A'ds /-/;//' r/:. v.  271 

with  pleasure  thai  \vi'  hoard  that  the  ice  was  now  sut^- 
ciently  strong'  to  In-arthc  wei;,'ht  of  the  caravan,  and  we 
made  preparation  to  resume  our  journey.  <  )n  the  day 
before  we  set  out  the  hoy  who  had  ^aiided  I-<lam  across 
the  Karamut  Pass  came  to  me  and  asked  me  to  cure  his 
feet,  wliich  he  now,  for  the  first  time,  told  me  were  frost- 
bitten. At  the  moment  1  could  do  nothing,'  for  him,  i)Ut 
I  offered  to  takt;  him  with  me  and  attend  to  his  toes  as 
soon  as  possible,  assurin<,'  him  that  if  any  operation  were 
necessary  it  would  be  painless,  and  otferin*^  to  feed  and 
clothe  him  till  the  cure  should  be  complete.  The  boy 
was  disappointed  ;  the  very  sujjfi^'estion  of  the  amputation 
of  lifeless  toes  terrilietl  him.  and  he  ran  away.  Another 
unsatisfactory  affair  recjuired  to  be  dealt  with.  1  had 
come  to  the  conclusion  that  the  e.\-Yuz  l^ashi  of  Tir  had 
received  hard  usa«,'e  in  purse  and  person  for  misdirecting' 
me  the  year  before.  My  proceedin<,'s  a«,'anist  him  had 
ori«,Mnated  in  the  statements,  mostly  lies,  of  the  pecjple  of 
As<,'an  Sal.  and,  thou«,'h  his  instructions  mi»,'ht  have  been 
more  explicit,  1  was  convinced  fioiii  my  t'xamination  of 
the  ^'roun<l  that  he  had  not  wilfully  doiu'  me  wron^'.  I 
fi-ankly  told  him  so,  and  in  acknowledgement  of  my  mis- 
take ;,'avc  him  a  |)ii'sent  of  lOsarrs  cJT  rupees),  whitli  so 
pleased  him  that  he  expressed  his  willin<;ness  to  be  beaten 
a<;ain  on  similar  terms. 

<  )ii  leaving' Tn-  we  crossed  the  Varkand  Kivcr  and,  re- 
enterinj,'  Sarikol,  made  our  way  to  tin-  small  villa^'e  of 
iiuranj^sal  inhabited  by  Tajiks.  The  place  had  a  snu;,' 
appearance,  without  the  poverty-stricken  lookconnnon  to 
most  villa;,'es  in  this  rej^ion.and  I  was  cpiartered  in  a  cosy, 
well-built  house,  the  owner  of  which  presented  me  with 
some  partially  dried  ■•,'rapes  of  local  production.  This 
valley  was  small  but  fertile,  evidently  yieldinj,'  crops  in 
excess  of  local  rcquiriMiients,  for  Mohammed  .loo  received 
many  ofT(>rs  of  supplies  of  barley 


272    /.\'  Ti/U'/r  Axn  c//ixi:sr.  rrRKr.srjx. 

V\)V  till'  distance  tVoin  Hurani^'sal  to  .liii'al)  one  short 
march  was  sutirtciciit.  'V\\v  valK-y  was  rocky  and  sandy, 
destitute  of  f^niss,  and  in  its  w  indin<(  course  was  such  as 
could  only  he  traversed  in  winter  when  the  river  is  frozen 
over  in  many  places.  I  had  a  'I'ajil^  ^inde  and,  on  Tajik 
authority,  hoped  to  liiid  at  .lurah  two  slie[)her(U'  houses 
and  a  largo  "  ungur."  On  reaching  the  nKjulh  of  the 
valley,  the  spot  indicated,  I  requested  the  guide  to  point 
out  the  "  ungm-  "  and  he  waved  his  hand  towards  the  h)ot 
of  a  vertical  cliff,  where  I  perceived  a  patch  of  sand  par- 
tially protected  hy  a  sandbank  from  ihe  wind  which  was 
blowing  down  tht'valU'y.  The  two  houses  were  not  here, 
but  at  some  distance  up  the  valley.  For  myself  and  the 
caravan  this  day's  maich  was  short,  Init  l\am  Singh,  an 
indefatigable  assistant,  liad  taken  a  long  and  diflicult 
round  of  exploration.  Having  ascended  the  iiurangsal 
valley  for  a  short  distance,  he  had  crossed  the  Tarsi  Pass, 
about  6,000  feet  higher  than  Burangsal,  and  it  was  not 
till  \\\.W  at  night  that  he  rejoined  me  at  diiiab.  ]Icre  tlie 
bivouac  was  on  sand  ;  the  couch  was  soft,  and  1  slept  com- 
fortably till  within  a  couple  of  hours  of  daybreak,  when  a 
s(]uall  spran.L;  \\\i.  bL-jnging  clouds  of  sand,  leaves,  and 
twigs,  which  l)anished  sleep  and  comrorl.  The  troidjle 
moderated  when  daylight  came,  and  at  breakfast  the 
quantity  of  sand  which  mingled  with  my  food  was  less 
than  I  had  expected. 

Kam  Singh  set  out  in  the  morning  to  execute  sketching 
work,  while  I  went  with  the  caravan  on  a  short  march  to 
the  mouth  of  the  J\ichik  Tung  valley.  When  I  had 
nearly  reached  tliis  destination  I  was  surprised  to  see  a 
nian  in  a  soldier's  Idouse  rapidly  approaching.  He  was  a 
messenger  from  Kashgar  under  orders  to  lind  dk;  as 
quickly  as  possil)le  and  deliver  a  letter  and  parcel. 
Macartney  had  regarded  my  reference  to  Sonam's  illness 
as  an  intimation  of  a  case  of  plague  in  my  camp,  and   had 


.//../AM/  A/u^rf  ri.Acrii.  273 

accord  in  ^'ly  mudt'  due  iiouiicaiinii  hotli  to  Cliinesi.'  and 
Uussian  ot'licials.  M.  l\'trovsky  kindly  otftTcd  to  st'iid 
the  Knssian  medical  ottictT  on  "  pla^nie  duty  "  at  Kash- 
j^^ar  to  examine  and  treat  my  man  ;  but,  fortunately, 
Sonam's  fever  and  buboes  bad  (juite  disappeared,  and  the 
patient  was  now  in  {rood  health.  The  incident  showed 
the  care  exercised  l)y  Russia  in  ^uiardin^^  a^jainst  the 
approach  of  tiie  dreaded  plaj^ue,  for,  when  the  Russian 
doctor  was  sent  to  Kashgar  there  was  no  known  case  of 
piaj^fue  nearer  than  Bombay,  fully  1,500  miles  distant. 

Soon  after  I  reached  F\ichik  Tun<f,  some  men  from 
'I'ung  arrivi'd  and  I  tried  j;o  extract  from  them  infoi'ma- 
ti(jn  concerning  routes.  Their  replies  were  indefinite, 
and  when  supj)lemented  by  further  replies,  became  more 
indetinite.  'J'he  men  (Tajiks)  could  not  answer  a  plain 
(juestion  twice  in  the  same  way.  and  tinding  their 
examination  too  irritating,  I  turned  them  over  to 
Mohannued  Joo. 

Here  the  Yarkand  River  valley  seemed  absolutely  barren. 
The  only  living  creatures  I  could  find  were  small  lizards, 
which  must  be  possessed  of  great  power  of  endurance  to 
bear  the  intense  cold  of  winter  and  the  fierce  lieat  of 
summer.  Of  birds  I  saw  not  one  ;  no  chicore.  nor  even 
the  common  sparrow  which  can  ))ick  uj)  a  living  almost 
anywhere,  could  find  sustenance  in  winter  in  this  barren 
land.  Close  to  the  month  of  the  Kichik  Tim^  \allcv  the 
track  was  so  stee})  and  rocky  that  all  the  animals  had  to 
be  unloaded  and  the  baggage  carried  up  by  men.  The 
ice  in  many  places  was  reniarkabl\  transparent,  and  its 
surface  was  often  marked  i)y  ripi)Ies  like  those  on  the 
sand  when  the  tide  has  ebbed.  Some  of  the  smaller 
rivers  looked  as  if  they  had  been  suddenly  arrested  by  the 
frost  ;  the  water  seenieil.  at  some  places,  still  to  shoot 
in  small  cascades;  in  other  jilaces  to  boil  and  surge, 
and   where   tlu>  bed  was  smoother  the  form  of  the  long 

19 


274    /-\'  ///'/:"/■  ./.\7)  ('///.y/is/-:  7'rK/</-:sTAN. 

waves  reiiiuiiK'd  ;  hut  all  was  at  I'cst  and  almost 
noiseless. 

On  January  lOtli  I  reached  Lan^^ar  for  the  iourth  time. 
and  found  waiting  for  me  letters  which  had  heen  hrought 
from  Tashkurghan  hy  my  messenger  fiom  Tir.  The 
villagers  of  Langar  could  provide  me  with  no  supplies 
but  a  little  barley  and  one  or  two  old  roosters.  They 
were,  I  found,  themselves  dependent  on  Takla  for  pro- 
visions. Hitherto  Earn  Singh  had  been  able  to  reach 
points  of  sufficient  altitude  to  be  able  to  see  positions 
already  determined,  and  to  fix  others;  but  lower  down 
the  valley  it  was  impossible,  in  the  time  at  our  disposal, 
to  climb  mountains  of  bare  rock  on  either  side.  ^^'e 
therefore  resorted  to  pacing  in  our  measurements,  and  to 
this  method  we  adhered  until  we  reached  Kosarab. 

When  we  came  to  the  Danga  Bash,  or,  as  it  is  called 
in  the  latter  part  of  its  course,  the  Tashkurghan  River,  we 
found,  as  we  had  been  told  near  Jurab,  that  it  was  not 
frozen  over,  and  was  far  too  deep  to  ford.  We  therefore 
left  the  valley  of  the  Yarkand  and  advanced  up  that  of 
the  Tashkurghan  Kiver,  the  volume  of  which  seemed 
equal  to  quite  one-third  of  that  of  the  Yarkand  above  the 
confluence.  This  side  valley,  in  its  lower  part,  was  as 
barren  as  the  main  valley,  and  on  the  right  bank  where 
we  were  marching  we  found  a  troublesome  rocky  slope. 
But  the  river  was  fringed  on  l)oth  sides  with  ice  several 
yards  broad  which  looked  strong,  and  I  was  tempted  to 
allow  the  caravan  to  proceed  upon  it.  The  ice,  however, 
soon  began  to  crack  and  to  be  overflowed  with  water,  so 
that  the  animals  had  to  walk  at  considerable  intervals, 
and  the  drivers  had  to  exercise  great  caution.  I  climbed 
the  bank  to  view  the  valley  ahead,  and  saw  a  close 
succession  of  ice-floes,  some  very  large,  coming  down  the 
open  water  at  a  rapid  rate.  I  shouted  to  the  men  to 
bring  the  animals  off  tlie  ice  wherever  they  could  find 


.\'.  / A'A'f )  / / ■  /: .s ( '.  / / '/•;  ( v-'  ( ".  / A".  /  / '.  / .y. 


access  to  the  hank,  and  tlio  lu-xl  fi:\v  minutos  weiv  llic 
most  anxious  and  exciting'  I  had  spent  i'or  a  very  lon^' 
time.  The  ice  on  the  rit,'ht  hank  was  covered  with  water, 
and  under  the  weit,dit  of  the  ponies  it  swayed  up  and  down 
most  ahirmin^^dy.  My  first  impulse  was  to  rusli  tn  the 
assistance  of  tlie  men  and  animals,  and  the  salvacje  of  th( 
ha^'^'a;,'e.  for  l)ed(hng,  instruments,  journals,  and  other 
\aluahles  were  in  jeopardy  ;  hut  I  perc<Mved  that  I  should 
increase  the  weip^ht  on  the  ice  with  no  chance  of  any 
compensating  advantarje.  The  danger  was  of  short 
duration,  and  just  as  the  last  of  the  cavalcade  readied 
the  haid<  a  large  ice-floe  hecame  jannned  l)etween  the  ice- 
fringes,  checkingthe  current,  which  after  ait  instant  hroke 
through  with  great  force.  The  ice-floe  came  crasliing 
onwards  and  tore  u])  the  ice-fringe  where,  a  few  moments 
hefore,  the  men  and  animals  had  heen  plodding  wearily 
along.  \\'hile  thanking  a  merciful  Providence  for  this 
escape,  I  was  delighti'd  to  perceive  a  company  of  villagers 
from  Oey  liekay  hastening  to  our  assistance.  They 
helped  o»u"  men  to  take  tiie  ponies  up  the  steep  hank 
from  the  hrink  of  the  river,  and  then  to  carry  the  baggage 
over  that  portion  of  the  track  where  ponies  could  not 
carry  it.  Soon  after  dark  we  reached  the  small  village', 
where  a  small  house,  very  dirty  and  out  of  older,  was 
assigned  to  me.  This  dwcdling  was  in  one  hl(»ek.  (hvided 
into  three  rooms  hy  two  |)artitions,  through  I'aeh  of  whieli 
there  was  a  low  doorway.  Tlu'  roof  was  flat  and  very 
low  ;  the  rooms  were  iU-veiitilated.  the  chimney,  or  hole 
in  the  roDl',  Ixing  too  small  to  allow  the  free  escape  of 
the  smoke.  1  occupied  the  inner  room  and  Pass  took 
possession  of  the  central  one.  hut  a  miscellaneous  popu- 
lation of  fowls,  sheei).  and  goats,  rats  and  mii-e  with  their 
hereditary  eiieiny  the  eat,  was  distrihutcd  tlii-ough  the 
house. 

Near   this    village    it    was    necessarv    to    cross    to    the 


276    /.\'  rimn  AX  I)  ciiixr.sii  71/<k/:stax. 

opposite  side  of  the  v\\\\\  W  v  wiiv  lold  tliat  a  very 
little  higher  up  llie  stream  was  fonlahle  in  spriii;^  and 
autumn;  hut  now  tlie  ford  was  so  frinf:fed  and  heset 
with  ice  and  tiie  river  so  dannned  up  with  ice-floes  tliat 
to  attem[)t  to  ttl'eet  a  {)assaii[e  seemed  (piite  dani,'er()us. 
Still,  we  resolved  to  try,  and  procuring  haulks  of  tiniher 
and  doors  from  the  village  houses,  we  constructed  a  very 
rough  and  simple  bridge  from  ice-fringe  to  ice-fringe. 
On  hoth  hanks  the  fringe  was  so  soft  that  men  and 
doid<eys  sank  through  it,  but  neither  suffered  serious 
harm,  and  the  whole  caravan  was  transferred  in  safety 
to  the  left  hank.  A  short  distance  further  up  we  had 
to  recross.  hut  at  that  ])lace.  fortunately,  the  ice  was 
sound,  and  we  had  no  trouble.  Proceeding  up  the  right 
i)ank.  we  had  a  view  of  the  village  of  Kozey  which, 
surrounded  with  apricot  and  other  trees,  provided  an 
agreeable  variation  in  the  monotonous  landscape,  l^eyond 
this  village  there  was  no  room  to  ascend  on  the  right 
hank,  hut  there  was  an  ice-fringe  jutting  out  a  few  feet 
from  the  cliff",  and  on  this  the  unladen  donkeys  were 
al)le  to  walk  and  thus  avoid  the  cro.ssing.  The  rest  of 
the  caravan  iiad  to  cross  l)y  a  ford,  rather  deep  and  very 
stony,  hut  (juite  free  from  loose  ice,  a  couple  of  camels 
having  jjeen  provided  to  carry  over  the  baggage.  Tw^ice 
again  the  ponies  had  to  cross  the  stream  before  we 
reached  lieldir.  a  village  which  at  first  seemed  utterly 
deserted.  On  our  a]_)proach  every  house  appeared  shut 
up,  and  not  an  inhabitant  was  to  be  seen,  but  by  and 
by  some  Kozey  villagers  arrived,  and  then  the  Beldir 
people  l)egan  to  show  themselves.  They  had  never  seen 
a  European,  for  before  me  none  had  ever  penetrated  into 
that  dreary  valley,  and  tiic  inhabitants  had  probably  been 
terrified  by  strange  reports. 

On    both    sides    of    this    valley    vvcih;    numerous    small 
villages,    which    for  months    in   summer  must  be  almost 


s/fOK'r  (>/•■  Moxnv. 


■// 


coiupli'ti'ly  isolated  owiii^'  to  floods  in  the  river.  l^e- 
twt'i'ii  SOUK'  of  them  there  were  routes  over  steep,  rocky 
«,'rouud,  hut  these  were  said  to  i)e  so  had  as  to  he  im- 
practieal)le  for  pouies.  lu  winter  i\\v  deej)  snow  Ivin*,' 
lon^'  on  the  «,'round  often  eoniplotely  hiocks  the  routes, 
and  the  hare  mountain-walls  on  either  side  exclude  the 
sunshine  except  for  a  lew  hours  a  day. 

I  now  perceived  that  I  should  have  to  ahandon  my  lou",'- 
eherished  [)urpose  of  revisitin<;  W'acha  to  ^^'t  a  eheck  on 
the  lonj^itude.  The  river  was  almost  everywhere  open 
in  mid-stream  ;  to  Hnd  a  practicahle  route  it  would  he 
necessary  to  cross  and  re-cross  very  fre(iuently,  hut  the 
fords  were  impraetieahle  or  daii^^'erous.  Douhtless  men 
coidd  have  heeii  found  in  sulheient  innnhers  to  tarry 
till'  i)a;,'^'a^'e,  hut  the  condition  of  my  treasury  ihd  not 
warrant  the  adoption  of  this  nu'thod  of  transport.  The 
utmost  limit  I  could  ho[)e  to  reach  was  Kosarah. 

At  Shoti.  lO.IHIO  feet  in  altitude,  we  found  slielti-r  for  a 
ni^dit  in  two  deserted  stone  huts,  so  low  that  I  could  not 
stand  upri<^ht  without  kiiockiii;^  uiy  Ik  ad  aLiaiii'^t  the  roof, 
and  hriii;,'iu;,f  down  slunvers  of  (hist  and  soot.  During,'  the 
ni^^ht  and  most  of  the  following'  day,  snow  fell.  A«;ainst 
the  vertical  mountain  side,  close  to  Shoti.  llui-e  was  a 
rou;,'h  scalTohhn;,',  overs[)read  with  hiiishwood  and  hirj^'e 
stones,  so  that  it  formed  a  sort  ol  viaduct  aloii^'  which 
the  donkeys  were  al)le  to  pass  w  ith  their  huideiis.  thou^di, 
to  escapi'  projecting,'  rocks,  the  ponies  had  to  i)e  uidoaded. 
l"or  a  Ion;,'  distance  ahove  this  spot  the  hottom  of  the 
valley  was  only  a  few  yards  wide,  aiul  for  several  hun<h"ed 
yards  it  was  covered  wuli  sli|»peiy  and  sloping  ice,  so 
that  it  was  necessary  to  hew  out  a  series  of  steps  ami 
sj)rinkle  tluMu  with  earth  hefore  the  caravan  could  [)ro- 
ceed.  The  latter  p;irl  of  the  ascent  to  the  Kesiu  I'ass 
was  (piite  ^'ood,  and,  as  far  as  we  could  scj'  thiou^di  the 
mist  and  the   (iiu-   falliuL;   snow,  tlu-re    was   aluiiiilauee  of 


J78     /\    llllliT  AM)    ClIlMiSh:    /L  RK/iSTAN. 

«,a-ass.  At  the  top  (l'2/.)00  feet)  the  temperature  was  at 
0=>  F.,  but  Ham  Siii^Mi,  protected  from  the  snowfall  hy  a 
large  numnah  \\v\(\  ovci-  him  and  the  plane-tahli'  hy  two 
men.  pursued  his  labours  indefatigably.  J^efore  it  was 
quite  dark  we  reached  a  small  group  of  houses,  mostly 
uiiiidiabited.  The  occupants  of  the  largest  of  the  <1\\(11- 
ings  gave  me  the  use  of  their  abode  for  the  night,  going 
themselves  to  some  neighbcnirs  down  the  valley,  but 
leaving  their  live  stock  under  my  care.  The  poultry 
would  not  be  evicted,  but  raised  so  much  dust  that  the 
effort  to  dislodge  them  had  to  be  discontinued.  The 
domestic  donkey,  sheep,  and  goats  were  easily  turned  out, 
but  re-entered  whenever  the  door  was  open.  As  the  door 
could  be  barred  c^nl}'  (jn  the  inside,  1  resigned  myself  to 
the  company  of  these  animals,  which  passed  the  night  on 
fairly  amicable  terms  with  my  new  dog,  "  Yul  Bash." 
J\am  Singh,  .\bdul  Karim,  and  lAiss  were  sheltered  under 
a  dilapidated  outhouse,  while  the  caravan  men  slept  with 
only  the  baggage  round  them.  We  obtained  here  a  little 
chojjped  straw  and  barley,  but  no  water,  only  some  muddy 
ice  for  our  own  use. 

Early  next  morning  I  started  off  to  pace  the  di.stances, 
and  Kam  Singh  devoted  himself  to  sketching  the  narrow 
valley  which  enters  the  Chorlang  valley  at  Bagh.  In  the 
Chorlang  valley,  which  was  so  narrow  and  winding  that 
surveying  operations  were  tedious,  there  were  several 
villages  with  trees  about  them. 

When  about  six  miles  from  Kosarab  1  was  surprised  to 
see  a  smartly  dressed  native  of  India,  wearing  a  bright 
scarlet  lungi,  approaching  me  in  company  with  Islam. 
He  proved  to  be  Mohammed  Kamzan,  native  doctor  to 
the  l<)th  Bengal  Cavalry,  but  now  attached  to  the  British 
agency  at  Kashgar.  He  had  been  sent  by  Macartney  to 
attend  to  Sonam.  who,  however,  was  now  in  perfect 
health.     His  excellent  clothes  of  the  newest  Ka.shgar-cut, 


\i'AT/-:RrROorf\<;  my  (^akmuxts.    279 

Ionf<  boots,  iiiul  lii;,'h-lu'elL'd  leather  slippers,  presented  a 
f^'reat  contrast  to  my  patched  old  puttoo  suit  and  putties, 
I'lw  cap,  and  rubber-soled  canvas  boots.  We  walked  on 
tt)^'ether  and  found  it  necessary  several  times  to  cross  and 
recross  the  Teriart  Iviver  a  little  below  the  ])oint  where  it 
is  joined  by  the  Tekesekerek.  My  pony  was  at  some 
distance,  and,  as  the  stream  was  shallow,  we  easily  waded 
across,  the  water  whit-h  was  splashed  (jver  my  putties 
freezing'  into  an  adininiljle  waterproofing.  At  some  of 
the  fords  there  were  stepping-stones,  treacherous  with  a 
transparent  film  of  ice.  These  I  avoided,  but  Mohammed 
Kamzan,  with  less  experience,  trying  once  to  use  them, 
slipped  and  fell  into  water  deep  enough  to  soak  his  fine 
garnu'nts.  The  incident  was  less  amusing  to  him  than  it 
was  to  me,  but  no  serious  harm  resulted,  and,  on  reaching 
the  village  of  Kosarab,  he  put  on  dry  clothing,  while  I, 
standing  in  front  of  a  big  tire,  removed  the  waterproofing 
from  my  putties. 

The  extent  of  the  village  of  Kosarab  surpri.sed  me  in 
view  of  the  poverty  (»f  its  surroundings.  The  whole 
neigldjourho(Kl  being  very  bare,  with  few  signs  of  culti- 
vation, such  prosperity  as  the  locality  enjoys  is  probably 
due  to  the  gold  wasiiings  carried  on  in  summer  on  the 
banks  of  th(>  river.  In  the  neighbouring  nK)untains  coal, 
copi)er,  and  iron  an-  found,  but  the  natives  have  little 
energy  or  enterprise,  and  the  minerals  remain  unworked. 
As  to  the  amount  of  gold  annually  oiilained  on  this 
stretch  of  the  river,  1  had  no  time  to  make  inquiry  ;  but 
undoubt«'(lly  gold  is  fouml  in  some  small  (|uantily,  and  is 
dealt  in  at  tlie  village  at  tlii'  rate  of  '1{\\  of  silver  to  I  of 
gold.  .\  more  important  (piestion  is  that  which  relates 
to  the  region  whence  the  gold  is  borne  down  by  the 
-stream.     Tiiis  problem  awaits  solution  by  otiier  travellers. 

I'rom  Kosarab,  Mohannned  Ham/an  set  out  for 
Yarkand,  and  1  sent   islam  din-ct  to   Kashgar  to  inform 


j8o   /x  rir.ET  Axn  cinxi-.si:  ti'rkhstax. 

MucartiR'V  of  my  \\  lifif;ib(juts,  unci  to  set  his  iiiind  at 
rest  as  to  the  suspected  case  of  plague.  At  Kosarab,  as 
at  smaller  villages,  there  was  trouble  in  making  payment 
for  supplies  receiNxnl  ;  not  that  disputes  arose  between  \\\v 
and  llu'  vendors,  but  these  were  so  numerous,  and  tlu; 
separate  contributions  were  so  small,  that  it  would  have 
required  a  large  amount  of  copper  coin  to  pay  them  indi- 
vidually. My  usual  method  of  procedure  was  to  instruct 
the  caravan  bashi  to  give  public  notice  that  1  would  ])ay 
lor  whatever  provisions  were  supplied,  and  to  tell  the 
Ming  J^ashi  or  Yuz  Bashi  to  have  the  accounts  ready. 
Having  ccniipared  the  quantities  received  with  those 
stated  by  the  villagers  to  have  been  supplied,  I  i)aid  the 
Ming  (or  Yuz)  Bashi  in  the  jiresence  of  as  many  of  the 
inhabitants  as  could  crowd  round  us,  and  then  asked  him 
two  or  three  times  whether  1  had  paid  him  in  full  for 
everything.  Doubtless  squabbles  arose  as  to  the  amount 
due  to  each,  and  these  squabbles  were  complicated  by  the 
sharp  practice  of  the  official,  who  (as  at  Kosarab)  would 
try  to  satisfy  the  villagers  with  payment  at  ordinary  rates, 
he  having  been  paid  at  the  high  rates  expected  of  British 
sahibs.  This  liquidation  of  accounts,  however,  was  not 
my  business,  and  onl\'  in  very  exceptional  circumstances 
would  1  interfere. 

The  most  difficult  [)art  of  my  task  was  now  almost 
acc(jmplished,  only  the  short  stretch  of  the  Yarkand  Ixiver 
between  Kosarab  and  the  mcnith  of  the  Tashkurghan 
remaining  to  be  surveyed.  With  a  few  men  and  animals 
we  ascended  the  main  valley  as  far  as  Sawas,  the  furthest 
bivouacking  ground  to  which  ponies  could  be  taken. 
Next  morning  Bam  Singh  and  1  paced  up  the  valley  to  a 
point  within  sight  of  the  countiy  surveyed  from  the  south 
side  of  the  Tashkurghan  River,  and  we  passed  a  remark- 
ably shaq)  loop  of  the  Zarafshan  Biver,  as  the  Yarkand  is 
there  called.      In   scvcial    [)laccs  hci-c,  as  well   as  further 


RHTCNX    TO    VARK.IXI).  2S1 

to  the  east,  wr  iioiicfd  i-ircular  cavities  in  tlie  rocks, 
some  close  to  the  river,  otliers  (mostly  near  Sawas) 
lii^'li  above  it.  These  had  been  neatly  drilkd  by  natural 
forces  to  a  depth  of  S  to  10  feet  in  sonic  cases,  while  in 
others  the  depth  was  about  5  feet,  the  diameter  at  the  top 
being  from  '2  feet  to  '2i  feet. 

Resuming  our  caravan  journey  to  the  east,  we  revisited 
Ay  Tash  (Camp  !(')),  whose  name  was  now  stated  to  be 
Ara  Tash.  From  Chumdi  we  ascended  and  surveyed  the 
Asgan  Sal  valley  to  a  spot  whence  we  could  see  the 
country  which  we  had  surveyed  from  the  Sandal  and  the 
Kiu-amut  Passes. 

Ai  Oyung  excellent  pears  are  grown,  and.  as  I  ap- 
proached the  village,  T  hoped  to  purchase  a  large  supply, 
but  I  had  been  forestalled  by  a  Chinaman,  who.  in  the 
absence  of  the  grower,  liad  obtained  the  fruit  froui  his 
timid  wife  at  about  one-tenth  of  its  value. 

Following  the  right  bank  to  the  Yarkand,  1  worked 
down  to  the  point  where  the  river  is  crossed  by  the  road 
to  Khotan,  thus  completing  the  survey  of  the  stretch  from 
J^azar  Dara,  a  length  of  about  three  hundred  miles,  of 
which  at  least  that  portion  between  the  west  end  of 
Kaskam  and  Kosarab  had  never  before  been  surveyed. 
The  eompli'tion  of  this  work  was  highly  satisfactory  10 
myself,  and  in  consideiing  the  circumstances  in  which  it 
was  carried  out.  I  am  ine-liiied  to  altribiite  its  success  not 
merely  to  the  local  assistance  1  obtained,  but  also,  and  in 
liirge  measure,  to  the  opposition  I  eneoimteri'd.  The 
physieal  ditticulties  to  be  overcome  with  the  limited 
means  at  my  dis[)osal  were  veiT  rormidai)le.  but  these 
seemed  to  dwindle  and  lose  their  importance  when 
artificial  dilhculties  wei-e  interposed,  and  when  1  was 
delayed,  obstructed,  and  tliwailed  by  persons  who  had 
not  tli(>  candour  or  the  coinage  to  declari*  themselves. 
The  depression   which    1   experienced   after   three   unsJic- 


282     /X   TIBET  AXD    CI  I  T\  USE    TURKESTAN. 

cesst'ul  attempts  was  counteracted  l)y  the  knowledge  that 
my  failure  would  mean  the  success  of  the  opposition,  and 
I  resolved  at  all  hazards  to  complete  my  task.  The 
practical  result  of  the  obstruction  was  that  the  survey 
embraced  a  much  wider  area,  and  was  carried  out  in  a 
far  more  satisfactory  manner  than  I  had  ever  anticipated. 
In  this  view  of  the  matter  I  have  to  acknowledge  my 
obligations  to  those  who  unintentionally  constrained  me 
to  extend  the  range  of  my  observations,  and  to  take  up 
positions  whence  I  could  check  and  review  my  work. 

On  February  'ind,  after  a  three  months'  tramp  of 
move,  than  one  thousand  miles,  I  was  once  more  at 
Vaikand,  and  in  occujjation  of  my  old  quarters. 


CTTAPTKli  XVn 

Troul)le  iibout  iiioiiev— The  Kli;in  Arik  route — Large  oasis — Khan 
Arik  —  Meeting  Maciirtncv  —  Hospitahle  hosts —  Civilisation — 
Mil/  Tagil  Ata  and  ]\Iount  Kuiigui— The  Taotai— Formal  coni- 
[)laints — Ilisproniise — DiniRi-witli  the  Taotai— Feeling  a  fool — M. 
iVtrovsky — Swedish  missionaries — Macartney's  position — Depar- 
ture from  Kasligar. 

\  T  \;irk;iii(l  1  li'iinied  that  tlu'  Chow -Kuan  liad  rcenUly 
^^  sent  to  the  Beg  ot"  Sarikol  to  int'ui'iii  him  tliat  I  had 
gone  to  the  mountains  and  was  traveUing  without  a  pass- 
port, and  that  he  liad  commanded  the  Beg  to  ascertain 
what  1  was  doing.  'l'hi>  order,  which  ended  with  tlic 
usual  h)rmuhi,  "  treml)le  and  ohoy,'"  had  prohahly  heen 
si-nt  hy  dirocti(jn  of  the  Taotai,  for  I  iiad  told  the  Chow- 
Kuan,  before  setting  out,  that  it  \\as  my  inteiilion  to 
travel  in  Sarikol,  and,  as  far  as  possible.  I  ke|>i  him 
acquainted  with  my  movements.  Instead  of  olijecting, 
the  Chow-Kuan  had  sent  a  subordinate  official  with  me 
to  facilitate  matters. 

llemembering  the  sli;ii|i  practice  of  the  Ituhan  Iraders 
in  the  matter  of  the  bill  of  excliangc*  m  ()ctoher,  I  made 
careful  in(piiry  before  ottering  another  lull  lor  sale.  The 
chief  traders  at  Varkand  h)rmed  a  sort  of  "  enmer."  at  the 
liead  of  which  was  Pundit  P)0ota  I\am.  and  ilie\  had 
conspii'ed  together  to  over-reach  me  a  second  time,  ivajii. 
who  had  i)een  left  behind  dinino  the  winter  to  biix' 
ponies,  knew  of    their  intention,  and   the   rogue  acti'd   in 


i 


284     /-^'    TIllliT  AND    c7//.\7-:s/-:    7'lRK/iSTAX. 

their  interest.  He  had  Ixtrrdwcd  iii(»iu'\'  in  copper  iKim 
Bootii  Kaiii,  but,  entirely  without  warrant,  he  had  entered 
into  an  informal  undc-rstandinj^f  with  him  that  the  money 
would  be  repaid    by   a    bill    on    Bombay  at  the   rate  of 

6  tongas  20  dachen  per  rupee.  When  I  now  inquired 
of  various  traders  at  what  rate  they  would  buy  a  bill,  they 
oliered  (5  tongas  20  dachen,  though  it  was  clear  that, 
but  for  Boota  Bam,  they  would  have  offered  higher 
rates.  I  applied  to  ])r.  Josef  Messrur,  the  Persian 
missionary,  for  assistance,  and  he,  very  quietly,  but  with 
much    trouble,    sold    a    bill     for    me    at     the     rate    of 

7  tongas  5  dachen  j)er  rupee  for  copper,  or  2A  daclien 
less  for  silver,  so  that  I  was  able  to  repay  Boota 
Bam  the  borrowed  copper  money,  and  to  deprive  him  and 
Baju  of  their  prospective  gains.  When,  in  making  the 
repayment,  I  tendered  interest  to  that  mild  Hindu,  lie 
assumed  his  most  innocent  and  injured  look,  and  said 
reproachfully  that  he  could  not  dream  of  making  money 
out  of  me.  Baju  looked  deeply  disgusted,  but  his  share 
in  the  matter  1  passed  over  in  silence,  for,  on  the  principle 
that  "  the  devil  you  know  is  better  than  the  devil  you 
don't  know,"  I  resolved  not  to  part  with  him.  In  his 
purchases  of  ponies  and  donkeys  for  me,  he  had,  mdirectly, 
made  some  gains  for  himself,  but  this  was  to  be  expected, 
and,  at  all  events,  I  had  now  suitable  animals,  fresh  and  in 
good  condition,  so  that  I  was  ready  to  set  out  for  Kashgar. 
Despatching  Baju  to  the  Kugiar  district  to  buy  four 
camels  by  way  of  experiment  in  my  next  journey  into 
Tibet,  and  leaving  Abdul  Karim  to  look  after  the  tired 
animals,  I  set  out  for  Kashgar  on  February  10th  by  the 
Khan  Arik  route,  intending  to  get  good  values  for  the 
longitudes  of  the  various  halting-places.  I  subsequently 
learned  that  Br.  Sven  Hedin  had  travelled  by  a  part  of 
this  route,  but  1  had  then  neither  his  book  nor  his  map  to 
enli'diten  me. 


SOriil-.ZliS"    AM)    IlKIIUiS. 


2S; 


The  oasis  of  Yarkaud  is  a  ctHiipaiativcly  leitile  rt'f(i<»ii, 
where  food  stuffs  are  abundant  and  eheap,  while  at 
Kash«,'ar  the  local  produdion  is  insufficient  for  tlif  loral 
rc(|UH'cni('nts.  There  is,  therefore,  a  brisk  tra<le  between 
the  two  towns,  Hour,  rice,  and  other  a^^ricultural  produce 
bcin^j  sent  to  Kash«,Mr  in  considerable  quantities.  This 
trade  th(>  Chow-Kuan  of  \'aikand  n^f^ards  as  injurious  to 
till-  intri-csts  of  bis  distiict  :   lie  has  declared  it  illej^jal,  and 


TIM,    W  Al.l,    III     YAMil    SIlMli;,    VAKKANH. 


has  stationed  otiicials  at  ( )ev  l^aub  Lan^ar.  the  liinil  of 
Yarkan<l  (•nhi\alion,  lo  ^ujipress  it.  These  otVu-ials,  bo\v- 
evei-.  in  acc-ordanee  with  Chinese  methods,  are  uiuU'rpaid. 
and,  for  tlu'ir  livelihood,  ai'e  dependent  on  "  S(|uee/es  " 
and  bribes,  so  that  llie  short-siL;liti'il  polie\  of  (he 
Chow-Kuan  is  deft>ated,  and  trade  takes  its  natural  course. 
At  Oey  Ba^di  Tian^^ar  we  entered  the  Takla  Makan 
Desert  and  traversed  a  re;,Mon  waterless  except  at  Langar, 


2S6     /.\'    77/.7:'y   .IX/)    C7//X/-S/:    fCK K/iST.l \. 

where  was  a  spring;  and  two  i-uiiious  liouses.  Here  the 
weatlier  was  unusually  culd,  tlic  ilicniionu'ltT  indicatiu^' 
a  teni})eratiire  within  one  degree  of  zero  ¥.  at  seven 
o'clock  in  the  morning.  When  we  approached  the  oasis 
(if  Tarim.  the  ctiunti'v  laid  aside  its  desert  aspect.  At  the 
eastern  edge  of  the  cultivated  ground  the  Yuz  Bashi  did 
nie  the  honour  of  meeting  me,  and  he  led  rae  to  a  roomy 
houseahttle  beyond  the  bazaar.  The  extent  of  this  oasis 
surprised  me,  but  the  scarcity  of  water  was  a  cause  of 
bitter  complaint  on  the  part  of  the  Yuz  Bashi.  Similar 
complaints  were  made  at  Yupugay,  where  there  is  an 
oasis  about  four  times  the  size  of  that  at  Tarim.  When 
I  passed  through  its  bazaar,  it  was  crowded  witli  people 
in  holiday  garb,  who  were  celebrating  the  id  or  end  of  the 
roza,  the  Mohammedan  fast,  j^oth  Tarim  and  Yupugay 
are  in  the  INIaralbashi  district,  but  are  dependent  on  the 
]^eg  of  Tazgun  for  their  water  supply.  From  Tazgun  si 
large  irrigation  canal  passes  through  both  of  these  oases, 
and,  by  way  of  backsheesh  or  blackmail,  but  in  considera- 
tion of  keeping  the  canal  supplied,  the  Beg  of  Tazgun  had 
for  many  years  received  1,000  tongas  annually.  For  the 
last  two  years,  however,  the  inhabitants  of  the  oases  had 
stopped  this  payment,  and  the  Beg  had  cut  ofif  their  water 
supply.  In  the  hope  of  seciu-ing  at  least  some  stunted 
crops  in  early  summer,  the  people  had  had  thcii'  (iclds 
Hooded  in  winter,  but  the  results  were  unsatisfactoiy  and 
complaints  were  made  to  the  Taotai.  This  dignitary 
ordered  the  matter  to  l)e  investigated  by  a  humble  official 
who  duly  went  to  Tazgun,  received  his  Ijiilx'  fiom  the 
B^g,  saw  the  water  actually  running  for  hall  u  day,  and 
returning  to  Kashgar,  assured  the  Taotai  that  the  supply 
was  abundant. 

On  entering  Khan  Arik  (Royal  Canal;  1  found  no  sign 
of  welcome  nor  any  preparation  for  any  entertainment.  I 
took  up  my  quarters  for  the  night  in  a  very  dirty  serai  or 


k'/fA\    AR/h.  2S7 

iiin,  wlu'iT,  liowcvrr,  iIr'  iniikeei)er  aiul  his  witf  were 
polite,  and  provided  me  witli  the  best  they  had  at  their 
command.  In  the  evening  the  Beg's  son  came  and 
ofifered  me  presents  of  dried  lucerne,  chopped  straw,  corn, 
and  a  sheep,  making  numerous  excuses  for  the  non- 
a])pearance  of  his  father,  but,  as  I  did  not  believe  the 
explanations,  I  did  not  accept  the  presents.  Later,  the 
large  crowd  which  had  gatliered  round  the  door  of  the 
serai  began  to  disperse,  and  I  vt'iitund  tmili  to  the  open 
space  towards  the  bazaar  to  take  observations.  Then  the 
multitude  i-eturned,  but  it  was  clear  they  had  no  hostile 
intentions,  and  I  went  on  with  my  work.  While  I  gazed 
at  the  stars  I  was  gazed  at  by  this  quiet,  orderly  assembly 
who  neither  knew,  nor  cared  to  know,  what  I  was  doing, 
but  were  pleased  with  the  unusual  sight  of  a  Sahib  at 
work. 

From  information  received  at  Tarim,  Yupu^ay,  an<l 
Khan  Arik,  I  believe  that  the  whole  region  extending 
from  Tarim  to  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Kashgar  River 
and  included  within  the  Takia  AFakan  Desert,  contains 
nothing  hut  barren  waste. 

Setting  out  from  Khan  Ai-ik  in  the  morning,  1  walked 
for  a  few  miles  and  was  met  by  the  Beg  of  Khan  Ank.  a 
tine-looking  old  man,  the  very  picture  of  contentment  and 
happiness.  When  we  came  in  sight  of  each  other,  he 
dismounted  and  donned  his  olticial  hat,  which,  wrapjuMl 
in  a  handkerchief,  a  servant  had  worn  outside  his  own  hat. 
After  the  usual  greetings  had  been  exchanged,  he  and  I 
remounted,  lie,  a  portly  man,  being  assisted  l>y  two  of 
his  retainers.  We  rode  on  towards  the  J^eg's  house  near 
^'igdarik,  the  last  few  miles  being  over  uninteresting  waste 
laiul  covered  in  some  places  with  a  whitish  incrustation. 
The  house  stood  about  a  mile  to  the  east  of  the  road  from 
^'arkand  to  Kashgar,  and  was  the  fmest  private  building 
1  had  seen  in  Sin-Chiang.'    The  courtyards  were  spacious 


288     /X    TiniiT  AND    CIllXESI-.    TCRK /-S'/'AX. 

and  well-kept,  while  the  large  one-storied  house  was 
singularly  well-built  and  clean.  When  the  ]3eg  had,  with 
the  help  of  two  attendants,  reached  the  ground  in  safety, 
he  took  off  his  shoes  or  strong  slippers  and  ushered  me 
into  a  long,  rectangular  room  with  wjiite-washed  walls 
and  numerous  alcoves.  The  roof  was  very  high,  con- 
sisting of  large  rafters  with  uniform  cross-pieces  of  wood 
betw^een,  while  the  floor  had  a  thick  covering  of  resds  and 


natim:  womkn  (joinc;   to  mai!Ki:'I'. 


straw'  overlaid  witli  K'liotan  carpets  of  bright  colours  and 
elegant  designs.  At  one  side  of  the  apartment  was  a 
capacious  fireplace  with  a  bright  wood  fire,  over  which 
was  a  chimney  which,  unlike  most  others,  did  allow  the 
smoke  to  escape.  The  repast  consisted  of  tea,  bread, 
coloured  eggs,  currants  and  sweets.  Stretcliing  myself 
on  the  floor,  which  was  as  soft  as  a  cushion,  I  partook  of 
these  refreshments  while  waiting  for  the   arrival   of  the 


.]//■/■:'/ /\(,   M.K  Ah-T\/-)\  289 

caruvan.  'I'lic  Jie^'  was  evidently  a  man  who  liad  ^a-own 
old  in  the  enjoyment  of  comfort,  probably,  or  rather 
certainly,  the  fruit  of  his  "  sqiieezin^^s  "  dm-ing  his  tenure 
of  otiice.  He  informed  me  that  he  had  received  strict 
orders  from  the  Chow-Kuan  of  Yangi  Shahr  to  escort  me 
througli  his  district  and  afford  me  every  assistance  ;  and, 
for  this  reason,  he  could  not  be  persuaded  to  leave  me  till, 
at  the  boundary  of  his  jurisdiction,  he  had  handed  me 
over  to  the  Beg  of  Tazgun.  He  of  Tazgun.  more 
amenable  to  my  wishes,  left  me  before  I  reached  Yangi 
Shahr;  and,  skirting  that  town  S(j  as  to  avoid  oppressive 
attention,  ]  marched  towards  Kashgar.  As  1  hurried  on 
I  suddenly  met  Macartney,  who.  witli  his  C'haprassie, 
•I attar  Ali,  was  looking  out  lor  me.  ll  was  only  ten 
months  since  I  had  left  them  at  \'arkan(l.  i)ut  they  had 
been  months  of  toil  :  both  my  appearance  and  my  garb 
had  changed,  and  I  was  not  recognised.  However,  my 
voice  declared  my  identity,  and  my  friend  took  me  to  his 
home,  which  seemed  like  a  little  oasis  of  civihsation 
amidst  wastes  of  Asiatic  barbarism.  l'\)r  me  the  place 
had  something  of  an  air  of  enchantment :  the  looks,  the 
language,  the  conversation,  the  ways  of  ihinking  of  my 
host  and  hostess  were  deliglitful,  while  the  physical 
comfort  derived  from  well-furnished  rooms,  table  linen, 
plates  to  eat  from,  and  glasses  to  drink  from,  to  say 
nothing  of  the  well-cooked  viands,  was  such  as  I  had 
never  experienced  before.  None  can  ap)>reciate  the 
ordinary  comforts  of  life  like  tht)se  who  have  i)een  long 
ileprived  of  them.  Several  days  elapsed  before  the  sensa- 
tions of  preternatural  enjoyment  began  to  tone  down,  and 
i  was  able  to  consider  calmly  the  conditions  of  life  in 
Kashgar. 

One  (pu'stion  which  interesti'd  nw  and  which  1  set 
myself  to  answer  was.  whether  Mux  'i'agh  Ata  is  visible 
from  Kashgar.      Having  measured  a  basi'  with  oiu*  end 

20 


290    /.v  rinirr  .\\n  ciiixi-.sr.   rcRKi-s'/AX. 

on  tlu'  hill  close  to,  iind  just  in  front  oT,  tlu'  l^ritisli 
Agency,  i  fixed  the  co-ordinates  of  the  princi})al  peaks  in 
the  high,  snow-clad  range  south  and  west  of  Kashgar. 
On  Curzon's  map  of  the  Pamirs  there  is  represented  a 
peak  bearing  the  name  of  Mount  Kungur.  Tliis  peak  I 
took  to  ])e  the  liighest  in  the  south-western  range,  but, 
being  unable  in  Kashgar  to  ascertain  its  local  name,  1 
numbered  it  K'J  dvungur  second  ])eakL  'i'lic  height  which 
1  found  for  it  was  not  25,850  feet,  but  only  •J8,580  feet, 
the  correctness  of  this  altitude  being,  however,  dependent 
on  that  of  the  barometric  height  assigned  to  Kashgar. 
K"i.  moreover,  1  found  to  be  nearer  Kashgar  than  jNlount 
Kungur  is  represented  on  Curzon's  map  to  be.  The 
position  of  Muz  Tagh  Ata  on  this  map  is  also  incorrect,  as 
it  is  really  about  twelve  miles  to  the  south-west  and  almost 
.inline  with  Kashgar  and  \\'l,  so  that  it  cannot  possibly  bo 
seen  from  Kashgar  or  any  point  near  that  town.  'I'his 
conclusion  is  confirmed  by  tho  fm-t  that  the  latitude 
of  the  highest  peak  visible  from  Kashgar,  as  determined 
in  favoural)le  weather  when  the  whole  range  was  clearly 
seen,  is  22  11  furllK-i'  uortli  tliaii  llial  of  Mux  Tagh  Ata, 
which  is  o8"  10   4o  . 

Kashgar  does  not  suiter  by  a  comparison  with  towns 
which  1  visited  further  to  the  east.  Its  bazaar  1  found  to 
be  cleaner,  its  streets  broader,  its  shops  in  general  better 
stocked,  and  its  inhabitants  more  prosperous-looking  than 
in  other  towns  of  Hin-Chiang.  Kven  on  days  when  there 
was  no  market,  the  streets  were  alive  with  a  Inisy 
])opulation,  and  long  droves  of  camels  testified  to  a 
brisk  trade  carried  on  mainly  with  Kussian  Turkestan. 
The  formidable  mud  wall  round  the  town  had  recently 
been  to  a  large  extent  re-built,  and,  with  the  moat 
beyond,  gave  an  appearance  of  dignity  and  strength. 
Within  the  town  there  was  no  proper  water  supply, 
but    men    and    donkeys    were    continually    employed    in 


////•;    TAOJAI. 


2ij\ 


In-iiigin^'  tlic  iiuiddy  fluid  from  the   Kizil  8u  or  Kiisli<j;;ir 
Iviver.     Duriii<j;  my  visit  fever  w  ii^  prevalent. 

Ill  the  course  of  my  j(nu-neying  it  had  been  iii\  hahil, 
on  arriving  at  any  large  town,  to  vi>il  witlioiil  delay 
the  principal  Clunese  ol'tirial  :  luii  at  i\ash,L;ar  I  con- 
sidered it  a(lvisal)le  to  he  u\  no  huny  ni  paying  ni\ 
respects  to  the  Taotai,  whose  attitude  towards  ni''  had 
heen    unfavourable.     After   having  been    a    week    in    the 


Tin:  MAitKi;r-iM,.\(  i:,  kamh.m;. 


town  I  went  to  the  Yanien,  and  it  was  easy  to  see  that 
tiiough  the  Taotai  held  a  highly  important  office,  he  Avas 
weak,  grovelling  before  the  liussian  Consul-General,  and 
desirous  chiefly  of  avoiding  trouble.  I  complained  of 
treatment  T  had  received  within  his  district,  and  he 
assuri'd  me  that,  whatever  othiM-  ofiic-ials  mi.uht  do.  he 
would  assist  me  to  the  uimosi.  1  told  him  my  plaii>,  and 
he  a]>pear(Ml  to  Ihink  it  suspicions  ihat    1   wished  to  I'evisit 


2ij2    /.^■  r/n/rr  .\\n  cff/xr.sr.   rrRKi'.sTAX. 

AUsiii  Cliiii  ami  tlir  adjiici-nt  country.  At  length  lie  laid 
aside  his  displeasure  and  said  he  had  no  ol)jfction  to 
my  phms,  sliowing  Macartney  a  telegram  from  tlu' 
Tsungli  Yamen  respecting  me.  This  message,  enjoining 
the  Taotai  and  otlici-  oflicials  to  aftbrd  me  due  protection 
while  in  Sin-Chiang,  luid  come  in  consequence  of  repre- 
sentations made  at  Peking  hy  Sir  Claude  Macdonald,  hut 
had  prohahly  l)een  accompanied  hy  secret  instructions  of 
a  hostile  character. 

On  a  later  day  I  was  invited  to  dnic  at    the  \'anu'n  and 
found   neither  the  (din}iany   noi'  the  dishes  to  my  liking. 
The  Chinese,  hoth  the  host  and  the  guests,  whether  hecause 
they  were  sullen,  or  hecause  the  numerous  dishes  set  before 
them   demanded  their  whole  energy,  had  nothing  to  say, 
and  I   found  it  impossible  to  draw  any  one  into  conversa- 
tion on  any  subject.     When  a  public  post  was  mentioned, 
the    Taotai    said   curtly    that    there  was  no  public  post, 
and   tliere  was  no   need   of  a   telegrapli    line   to    Varkand 
or    Khotan,   since    tliese  places  had   no  Taotai.      When 
1  turned  to  Loo,  the  head   of  the  telegraph  office,  who 
could  speak  English  fluently,  my  advances  were  met  with 
verv  brief  replies.     Nothing  appeared  to  have  any  interest 
I'xcept  the  dishes.     Every  one,   save  myself,  seemed  to 
appreciate  the  ducks,  ham,  sea-weed,  gizzards,  eggs,  lotus 
leaves  and  seed,  sliarks'  tins.  l)and)oo  njots,  soup,  ])astry, 
rissoles,  Chinese  potatoes,  stewed  pears,  i^'c.     The  piece 
(Ic  resistance  was  roast  pig,    which   was  regarded  as  a 
great  delicacy  and  served  with  special  ceremony,     ^\'lle^ 
the  time  for  this  dish  came,  the  guests  withdrew  a  little 
from  the  table,  the   top   of  which  was  then  removed  and 
aiiothei-    put   in    its    place.      On   this    the  roast   pig    was 
served  ;  then  the  former  table-top  was  restored,  and  the 
dinner  proceeded  to  its  natural  termination.     Wlien  that 
consummation  was  achieved,   the  Taotai,  a  short  man, 
escorted  me  to  the  door,  holdinj/  mv  hand  in  his.  swinmng 


VA' 


-H^ 


M.    l'liTI<0\'SKY.  29.^ 

it  to  and  fro,  and  inconsiderately  clawing  it  with  his  ovei'- 
i,a'o\vn  nails.  I  knew  that  all  this  foiiuahly  was  intended 
to  do  mo  honour:  hut.  to  myself,  my  |)osition  seomo(l 
ridiculous. 

The  man  whom,  ahove  all.  the  Taotai  disliked  and 
feared  \vas  M.  Petrovsky,  the  Kussian  Consul-CTeneral, 
an  othcial  who,  with  very  strong  prejudices  and  a  narrow 
intellectual  raufje,  made  the  Chinese  cringe  and  how  hefore 
him.  His  hehavioin'  towaids  the  ])eo]iJe  amoUL;'  whom 
he  lived  was  marked  with  disdain,  hut  he  expected  to  he 
tieat(>d  with  the  most  |)unctilious  politi'ness.  A  few  days 
iiefore  my  arrival  he  had  ni\i(ed  the  e\-('iio\\ -Kunii  nml 
his  successor  to  dimier  at  a  certain  hour.  The  iidiahi- 
tants  of  K'ashgar.  whether  I^uropean  or  .Vsiatic.  wfie  not 
Usually  very  ])re('ise  in  iheii'  I'eekoning  of  time,  which. 
for  local  purposes,  was  ascertained  hy  means  of  sun-dials  ; 
hut  it  suited  ^\.  Potrovsky  to  he  exact  foi'  once,  ami 
when,  a  few  minutes  aftei'  the  hour,  the  iwi.  Cjiinese 
guests  appeared  at  his  door,  he  refused  to  sec^  them. 
While  he  recjuired  sul)ser\  ience  on  the  ]iai1  of  the 
Chinese,  it  was  plain  that  he  regarded  as  intruders  men 
of  otlx'r  nationalities,  wliether  settled  in  K'ashgai-  or  (»nly 
visitors,  and.  if  they  were  r)iiti~.h.  he  called  them  spies 
and  secret  agents.  'l"o  the  Koman  ('atiiolic  missionarw 
Father  Hendriks,  he  was  acti\fly  hostile,  while  to  the 
two  Swedish  missionaries  h(>  showed  mari\e<l  unfriendlmess. 
The  missionaries'  jxisition  was  not  ;ni  en\ial)le  one.  and 
their  ])rospect  of  success  was  small,  hut  their  work  was 
rendere(l  more  diflicult  hy  the  disfivdur  with  which  thev 
were  regarded  hy  the  Kussian  ('onsul-(  ieneral.  .\ii\  hint 
of  the  approach  of  a  foreigner  at  once  excitiMl  this  man. 
l''roiii  rrejevalsk  he  I'eciMVtNl  a  telegrani  annoiiiiciiii.;  the 
arrival  of  Mr.  Isidor  Morse,  whom  C'ohhold  and  1  had 
met  near  the  Kilik  Pass,  and  the  interest  and  anxiety 
which  he  displayed  concerning  this  traveller,  his  nation- 


294    /-\'  riiii-.r    \xn  ciiixi-.si-:  'I'i-rkestax. 

ality,  the  piir|)()sf  of  liis  \isit.  iVc,  wus  simply  luii};hiil)K'. 
It  was  easy  tor  him  to  [)oisoii  the  minds  of  the  ifrnorant 
Chinese  officials,  and  set  them  against  miolfcuding  l^ritisli 
travellers,  and  his  efforts  to  this  end  showed  the  narrow- 
mind(>d  Hussian  of'ticial.  Tlie  Ixdief  which  he  propagated 
was  that  ihc  Indian  ( ioMTnnicnt  wished  to  extend  the 
Indian  IVontier  heyond  tlu'  llindn  Kush,  and  he  insinn- 
ate(]  that  h»i-  this  ])nr)^ose  I  was  working  as  their  secret 
agent,  as  if  any  sane  man  would  advise  an  attempt  to 
seize  remote,  harren  m(»untains  and  sandy  deserts.  M. 
Petrovsky.  like  some  others,  liad  someliow  adopted  the 
helief  that  Mux  'I'agh  Ata  conld  l)e  seen  from  Kasligar, 
and  when  1  told  him  the  result  of  my  oliservations  and 
ealcidaticns  he  keeidy  resented  my  statement.  He  had. 
without  any  inquiry,  made  up  his  mind  that  the  mountain 
stood  within  his  range  of  \ision.  and  he  was  not  to  he 
shaken  in  his  helief  hy  a  P>iMtish  intiuder  with  a  tlieo- 
dolite. 

C"ompared  with  the  position  ot  the  llussian  Coiisul- 
(ieneral,  that  of  the  represent;it i\r  ol  (ii'eat  Firitain 
appeared  very  unsatisfactory.  The  oflice  tilled  l)y 
^facartuey  is  that  of  "  Special  Assistant  lor  Chinese  AtTairs 
to  tlie  Ivesideiit  in  Kashmir."  and  the  Chinese,  when 
the\'  tind  it  convenient  to  make  little  of  his  position, 
do  not  hesitate  to  remind  him  that  he  has  not  even  the 
rank  or  authority  of  a  consul.  Me  has  no  escort,  and.  up 
to  IH'.IS,  he  had  no  uniform,  whereas  the  Kussian  Consid- 
(leiieial  was  and  is  ahle  to  drive  up  to  the  Yamen  wearing 
uniform  and  decorations  hecoming  his  i-aid<.  and  attended 
hy  an  escort  of  Cossacks.  In  the  lla^t.  ;iud  especialK"  in 
Sin-Chiang,  the  assertion  of  authority  hy  the  disphiy  of 
its  outward  signs  is  of  great  importance,  and  an  ol'ticial 
in  mere  civilian  garh  going  unescorted  to  pay  ]iis  ofificial 
visits,  seems  to  on-lookers  half-disowned  by  his  own 
government.      Besides,    an    escort   is   required    h»r    the 


M.iCARTxr.y  s  rosrnox.  295 

security  of  the  Hritish  A^fciicv.  not  indeed  in  oi-diniirv 
circuinstances,  Init  in  times  of  popular  excitement,  when 
disorder  and  riot  arise  and  spread  witli  the  rapidity  of  a 
dust-storm.  Tlie  natives  are  in  f,'eneral  peaceful  and 
respectful,  and  the  Chinese  soldiers  are,  as  a  rule, 
ohedient  to  their  otheers.  hut.  in  time  of  eonnnotion.  the 
show  of  respect  is  dropped,  and  the  Chinese  otheers  are 
ready  to  instif^'ate  assault.  Even  the  Secretary  of  the 
Russian  Consulate  was  at  such  a  time  attacked  hv  ihe 
Chinese  soldiery,  in  ol)edience  t<t  eonnnand.  The  stron^f 
position  which  Macartney  actually  holds  \\\  Kasho;ar  is 
due  to  his  own  merits,  liis  diplomatic  ahihty.  his  lini^niistic 
attaimnents,  his  prom}ititud(>  in  action,  and  especially  his 
intimate  knowled.^e  of  the  cliarachr  ot  each  of  tlie  I'aces 
with  which  he  is  conceiiied. 

In  makin^^  prei^iration  for  my  dejiarture  from  Kash^ar. 
1  laid  in  a  small  stock  of  cloths  of  various  colours  and 
desi^Mis  which  sliould  serv(>  h)r  presents  in  mv  fntnre 
travels.  Some  tan^nhle  form  has  to  he  «,Mven  to  acknow- 
ledj^ements  of  attention  received  tnim  natives,  and.  when 
the  ofVei-  of  money  wonld  he  re^ai'ded  as  ot'tensive.  a  few 
yards  of  cloth  pi-esenti'd  with  some  little  ceremony  and 
a  few  ])olite  Words,  are  highly  esteemed.  I  t'onild  that 
one  of  l'"atli(  r  liendrik's  coiucrts.  a  Chin;inian.  was 
skilfnl  in  the  prejiaraticn  of  a  lii:lit  iievera^e  which 
proved  an  a^reeahle  clian^n-  fiom  the  imjjure  water  and 
the  weak  tea  with  which,  dnnne  niy  peregrinations.  1 
had  in  ^'eneral  heen  i>l)liLjed  to  content  m\seH'.  lla\inL; 
in  \ie\\  an  e\tende<l  jounuy  \\\  'I'ihet  dnrin^'  the  summer, 
I  deferred  most  ot  my  pinchases  till  1  should  reach 
^al•kand.  hut.  with  Macartney's  aid.  1  wasahle  to  Ia\-  in 
a  sullicK  nt  supi)ly  of  money.  This  1  ohtaiued  partly 
from  some  Chinese  who  wished  ri  mittances  sent  to 
China,  and  [)aitly  from  a  Hindu  nioiU'\-Iender  who 
jiaid    me   at    the    lale   i\\    ahout    7   ton.ua^     IC)  datdu  n    h)r 


296    /\'  riiii'.i  .\\n  cmxi-.si-.   rri<Ki:sr.\\. 

ii  clralt  oil  Doiiihay,  a  rate  more  than  our-i'i^lilli  lii^^lur 
tlian  that  which  1  had  accepted  in  Varkand.  I''(»r  the 
sake  of  variety  in  the  mode  of  travellinf:^,  and  to  enahle 
all  my  men  to  ride  to  Yarkand.  I  purchased  a  mar])a.  or 
<tiu'-liorst'  cart,  for  myself  and  some  i)a^'f^a^'e.  and  on 
Mai-eli  '.Uli  i-einctantly  said  goodbye  to  m\  kind  host  and 
h(^stess  and  set  out  once  more  towards  the  l-'.ast. 


(II  \i'ri:i;  win 

^fn^|>il-  Prfpanitiuii-,  in  Vuikand  Attii.U  on  mi>Ni..n:iii«-<  I'liu-kv 
l>«'lmvii.iii-  «if  Nfiu-aitiic.v  -  Dfliivs  in  starting,'  Kiistwanls  oniT 
more  Si(i|>|io(l  at  Kliotan  I'oniplaiiit  t<»  >ra('aitnfv  — Stonn\ 
int«T\i«'\vs  with  Aiiihan— I'assport  uscloss- Circiiiiivontiiit,'  tlif 
Aiiilmii  l{<'|)I\  t.i  Ldniplaiiit  -  Dust  storm  in  <U's«'i-t — Amval  at 
Tolii  Loss  i.f  •.]n-i']>  Opposition  1).\  Chini'so  — Negotiations 
l.rok.-n  off  ••  i'r..t«'(tion  "  refused-  Haju  ilisnii«st'd— No  assis- 
lanr-i-  iil)tainal>li'     < 'Mni|Hlli(l  to  -tart. 

''I'' I II",  ji»iiriii\  In  ^;ll•k:lll(l.  |n'iliiiiiic(l  iiiiistly  in  tlif 
^  jolliiio  iiiiir|>ii.  or  iiMtivc  c-;irl.  took  ww  uvti-  the 
moiiotoiioiis.  siiiKJy  and  dusty  luaiii  routf  l)y  \  aiif^d 
Hissar.  It  liad  Im-ch  my  intention  to  hrcak  tlic  journoy  at 
Kizil  an<l  visit  tlif  tombs  of  I'l-dii  l^idsliah  and  Ha/arat 
Hcotnn,  ixtth  of  which  aiv  annnally  visited  l>y  crowds  of 
|)il«,Mims.  The  tond)  at  Ha/arat  lU^^'inn  is  said  to  contain 
the  rcMnains  of  Ilazarat  Sultan  who  ai)oiit  nine  hniuh-ed 
years  a;,'(»  defeated  the  Chinese  near  this  spot,  and 
estahlished  the  reli«,'ion  of  Mohannned  in  Sin-Chian^'. 
M\  purpose  was  simply  to  determine  the  true  jiosi- 
tion  »»f  tliose  tond)s  ;  hut  ha/y  weather.  ol)scurinj,'  l)oth 
stm  and  stars,  suj)ervened,  and.  as  1  was  unwilling'  t<» 
lose  time.  I  coiitimitd  my  journey  withotil  iiilcrruption. 

On  reai'hin^  ^arkanll.  on  Marcii  I  Ith.  I  found  tlu> 
animals  which  had  heeii  left  in  charge  of  Ahdul  Karim  in 
excellent  condition,  and  al>o  two  tine  camels  purchased 
hy  Haju  nrar  KuLiiar  lor  1 .  100  tom,'as.      Arranoements  for 


29^    /.y  rini'.r  .\\n  ciiixi-.si-.  rri<Kiisr.\\. 

tlie  liirc  of  iidditioiial  ponies  \svxv  iiijidf  with  imuli  (lil'ti- 
cnlty,  for,  tli()U«j[li  there  were  inaiix  transport  contractors 
(kerai  kisli)  in  ^'arkancl,  they  wei'e  unwilhn«,f  to  under- 
take any  journey  outside  the  well-known  trade  routes, 
especially  such  a  jouiiiey  as  1  pi-oposed,  over  an  altofjether 
unknown  rej^non.  1  found  also  that  many  of  these  con- 
tractors had  already  made  their  arranf,'ements  for  their 
annual  journey  to  Tich.  and  had  accepted  lar^^e  advances 


^^^ 


.i:.ii  r  Hi    VMiKvM'i    ri;vNsi'(ii;r  (  umiim  roi;s. 


from  traders  I'or  their  prospective  servic-es,  while  the  few 
who  had  not  yet  i'ontract«'d  had  horrowed  so  much  money 
that  it  they  attemjjted  to  leave  Yarkand,  theii-  animals 
would  i)rol)ahIy  he  seized  for  deht.  Traders  who  enp^a^'c 
the  services  of  these  contractors  have  generally  to  make 
large  advances,  sometimes  amounting  to  complete  ])re- 
payment.  to  enahle  the  carriers  to  feed  up  their  ponies, 
which  are  half-starved  during  the  wintf^i'.  and   to   make 


riiii  I'ORcr.  or  n'S'niu.  2cjfj 

suitiiblf  i)repiiriiti(>n  lor  tlic  joiiriH  y.  With  this  custom 
I  was  most  tin\\ilhii<,'  to  comply,  hccausc  a  transport  con- 
tractor, knowing,'  that  he  had  little  or  nothin<f  more  to 
expect,  would,  in  all  j)rol)al)ility,  without  hesitation  desert 
me  on  the  slif,'htest  pretext  of  dan^'ei'  or  ditlicidty.  After 
several  disajijiointments  T  entered  int<i  a  contract  with 
\ia/.  Akun.  who  promised  to  supply  nic  with  twenty 
|)onies  at  the  rate  of  {')h  tonf]fas  each  pi-r  niaich  as  f.ii'  as 
Khotan.  and  the  same  rati'  per  day.  whether  marching'  or 
icstin;,',  beyond  Khotan,  provided  the  caravan  man-lied 
when  I  desired.  For  tlie  return  joui'ney  the  pa\nient 
was  to  he  at  the  rate  of  -"^l  ton^'as  j)er  march  from  the 
place  (wherever  it  mij^ht  he)  where  he  should  he  dis- 
charged. These  tt>rms  weri>  much  higher  than  those 
usual  in  Sin-Chian^f.  hut  if  the  a^jreement  was  duly  ful- 
lilled.  they  would  not  he  exoihitant.  The  contract  was 
sij^Mied  with  mu(  h  formality  in  presence  of  the  .\ksakal. 
Sidik  Sli;iyc.  Pundit  r.oi>t;i  lJ;im.  and  Muiishi  Uunyard 
Ali.  who  duly  alfixed  their  seals  and  si;,'natures  to  tlu' 
document.  Then  the  force  of  custom  constrained  me,  and 
I  made  an  advance  of  thirty  days"  hwe,  or  .'i.UOd  tongas  ; 
hut  I  had  \ia/  Akun's  ponies  and  two  line  donkeys 
stahled  (dose  to  my  own.  so  that  I  could  see  that  they 
wei-e   piopcriy   fed   ami   tended   till   the  day  of  starting. 

The  old  pack-saddles  and  jliools  had  to  he  repaii'ed  and 
ui'W  ones  made,  and  the  yak  dans  uiiule  tiunks)  and  canvas 
hags  had  to  he  carefully  oveihauled  and  replenished  in  the 
Usual  systematic  manner  with  proxisioiis  tor  the  journey. 
The  men  re(|inred  an  outfit  of  clothes,  and  tt)  pi'event  the 
(lisappearanc(>  of  the  ]>ultoo,  I  had  personally  to  supervise 
the  eight  tailors  wh mi  1  eni|)|oyed  to  construct  the 
garnu'Uts.  liesides  the  warm  and  comfortahle  juittoo 
suits,  each  man  was  [)ro\ided  with  a  pair  of  Cawnpon^ 
hoots  of  excellent  tiualitx.  a  long  sheepskin  coat,  a 
flannel    shirt,   a   cardigan    jacket,   a    pair  of    cherooks  or 


.^oo    /.\    riiuir  Axn  ( iiixi-.si:   /  ink/.s/.w. 

iiiitivf  boots,  a  ])air  ot  pciuicks  or  felt  stocUiii^'s,  a  sheep- 
skin ra|i.  a  |iaii'  ol'  j^flovcs.  a  pair  of  ^^o^f^rlcs,  one  watLT- 
i)ottli',  one  liaM'i'sack.  and  two  Kaslnnii'  lilankcts.  or  two 
small  numnahs.  Botwoon  the  caiavan  nun  at  their 
repairs,  and  the  tailors  at  their  consiniciive  operations. 
I  had  to  walk  to  and  I'ro  encoura«,Mn;^  or  a(hnonishin»;  as 
occasion  seemed  to  reijuiri'.  At  othei-  limes  I  had  to 
treat  the  sore  backs  of  Niaz  Akim's  ixniies.  or  tind  sub- 
stitutes for  some  of  my  own  whose  condition  was  un- 
satisfactory. The  ))rocess  of  barfjaininrj  was  len^^thy  and 
tedious,  for  custom  required  that  two  (hilah.  or  brokers. 
shouM  take  part  in  the  ha^^^^lin^.  which  was  cai'ried 
on  in  a  mysterious  mannei',  the  s(dler  sometimes  putting 
his  ri^dit  hand  up  iJaju's  ri<,dit  s]e<'ve  and  indicatin^f  the 
pi  ice  by  a  touch  of  his  lin^'ei's. 

( )n  my  return  to  ^'arkand  I  had  found  l»al)/un;^,  a 
Ladaki.  very  ill  wnh  hi^h  fexcr  fidm  which  he  had  been 
suf^erini,^  for  several  days,  and  one  afternoon  he  saidx  >~o 
low  that  he  was  insensible,  ahnost  pulseless,  and  ap|»ar- 
ently  dyin<,^  With  a  spoon  I  a(hninistered  some  strong 
spirit,  and  he  recovered  so  bii'  that  his  pulse  becanx'  per- 
ceptible. His  malad\'  1  took  to  be  enteric  fever,  and 
havin<,f  had  him  ])laced  in  a  tent  by  Inmself.  1  ex|)ecte(l 
that  one  or  othei*  of  the  men  wduld  be  wilhiij^  to  attend 
to  him.  |-)nt  towards  tlieii'  sick  conn'ade  they  all  showed 
the  utmost  indifference,  even  l\aju.  a  relation  of  his  own, 
refusinf,^  to  perform  the  services  refpiii-ed.  (iutfar,  the 
caravan  cook,  carried  in  food  to  him.  but  1  had  constantly' 
to  watch  that  my  instructions  bn'  his  diet  were  not  in- 
frint^'ed.  His  nursinf,'  was  practically  left  to  me,  and 
after  several  weeks  1  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeinf(  that 
the  patient's  condition  was  imi)rovin^f.  His  recovery  was 
so  speedv  and  so  complete  that  in  a  short  time  he  was 
able  to  do  more  than  a  fair  share  of  the  hard  work  which 
had  to  l)e  accom)>lished. 


r.iA'/tU'y  .i.\\(n\i\c/:s.  301 

One  day  1  had  a  visit  from  Pundit  Hoota  Kain,  but 
renicinlHTin^'  fonnur  dralinf,'s  with  him,  I  dechned  to  set: 
hini.  He  was  not  olfended,  hut  went  away  ami  sent  nie 
repeated  messages,  requesting  tlmt  I  would  ^m\"'  him  what 
many  Indians  love,  a  letter  of  rrconnneiidatioii.  llr  rame 
to  me  again  and  "  with  bated  breath  and  whispering 
humblenees,""  hohling  his  hands  palm  to  pahu.  shaking 
his  head,  and  bhnkiug  with  his  eyes  alternately,  but  never 
looking  me  straight  in  the  iace,  begged  me  to  believe  that 
I  was  (juite  mistaken  about  his  character.  He  denied 
having  entered  int(j  any  arrangement  to  my  disadvantage, 
and  ottered  to  cash  a  bill  fnr'nie  at  the  rate  current  in 
Kashgar.  Xtnv,  however,  there  was  no  dil'licultN  in  ob- 
taining fair  terms  ;  the  conspirae\  hud  broken  down,  and 
1  s(dd  a  i)ill  at  a  rate  about  one-seventh  higher  than  this 
man  had  otl'eied  a  month  before. 

As  the  time  drew  uvav  for  setting  out  troni  \  arkanil. 
various  annoyances  occunvd.  One  man,  Kunehuk.  a 
Ladaki,  requested  his  discharge  on  the  ground  that,  being 
accustomed  to  live  in  a  very  cold  climate,  he  found  the 
weather  so  intolerably  hot  that  it  would  certainly  cause 
his  death.  The  man  was  a  hard  worker  and  exceptionally 
intelligi-nt.  and  I  was  very  desiious  of  retaining  his 
services.  I  paid  no  attention  to  his  assurances  that  tln' 
heat  would  kill  him.  but  tried  to  tind  out  the  true  leason 
of  his  desire  to  leave  me.  In  my  service  he  fan^d  mui-h 
better  than  he  did  at  home.  lie  was  well  elothed  an<l 
fed.  receiving  daily  rations  of  meat,  and  he  was  paid 
twenty  rupees  per  month  :  yet  he  preferred  to  go  back  to 
Ladak  to  live  on  suttoo  (parched  barley,  ground)  and 
water.  He  mentioned  as  an  additional  reason  for  his 
resolution,  his  father's  eireumstances.  his  age  and  depen- 
dence, but  probably  his  determination  was  due  to  dislike 
of  Kaju.  who  made  him  hig  foi'  the  other  caravan  men, 
aiul  as  I  could  not  jieisiiade  him  to  icconsidcr  the  matter. 
1  had  to  let  bun  uo. 


302     /.V    TIliET  AND    C/ffXIiS/i    '/CN k'/'lST.l \. 

Tlu'ii  Ni:i/.  Akiin's  uhii  Itci-iiiif  liouhk^soiiif :  lli»\ 
iV'iiird  tlir  dan »,'».' I's  (if  llir  ji )iii-ii('\ .  dec'laiTi]  tlifv  would 
not  Iravfi  vwv  an  unknuwn  cotniti'v  wlicic  iliry  were 
certain  to  porisli  anioiiL;  the  nl()untain^,  ainl  tlally  refusi'd 
to  leave  Yarkand.  Miic-li  patience  had  to  be  exercised, 
and  a  jjfood  deal  ol'  jtressure  brou^dit  to  bear  on  tliciii 
before  they  would  listen  to  reason  and  consent  to  start. 

lla\iiig  bcfii  dcsii-()Us  (if  j)urcliasiii<i;  hmr  caiucK.  I  had 
only  obtained  two,  Ijut  when  1  was  ready  to  start,  it  was 
announced  that  some  line  camels  were  ex])ect»'d  in 
^  arkand  in  a  <lay  oi'  two  for  sale.  After  waiting  two  day^- 
in  the  hope  of  making  a  purchase.  1  asked  ivaju  why  tli(\ 
had  n(jt  arrived,  and  he  told  nie  that  they  had  not  even 
been  sent  for.  This  lia[i|Ki)((l  two  days  before  a  festival, 
and  it  was  now  declared  tlial  il  would  he  uidiu'k\  to  start 
until  this  festival  had  been  celebrated,  so  that  I  had  still 
three  days  to  wait.  Then  to  niyref^ret  J  heard  that  L'tain 
Siiit^ii.  who, in  ( )ctobcr,  had  set  out  for  K'asliinir.  had  died 
at  (.Til^nt,  and  1  received  news  of  an  attack  which  had 
been  made  on  the  Swedish  missionaries  in  Ka.shj^ar.  'I'he 
C'how-Kuaii  of  the  old  town,  acting'  under  instructions 
from  the  Taotai.  it  appeared,  issued  or(ler>  to  the  JJe^'s  to 
send  him  a  petition  a;^^ainst  tln'  missionaries.  No  one 
had  any  (/ompiaint  a^^ainst  these  inoffensive  men.  and  the 
Jjc^'s  weie  perplexed  how  to  manufacture  a  ^'rievance. 
After  conferring  together  they  enjoined  the  missionaries' 
landlord  to  get  up  a  disturbance  which  might  throw 
discredit  on  his  tenants,  (jr  show  that  they  were  odious  to 
the  iidiabitants.  The  landlord  collected  a  crowd  of 
loafers,  the  scum  of  the  bazaar,  who  proceeded  to  de- 
molish the  outer  wall  about  the  mission  premises,  and  were 
in  the  act  of  destroying  tlie  (^uter  door  wlien  one  of  the 
missionaries,  Mr.  L.  E.  Hogberg,  coming  on  the  scene,  was 
set  upon  and  l)eaten.  News  of  the  disturbance  reached 
tfie  ]-)ritish  Agency  and  the  Kussian  Consuhite.    Macartncsy 


.1  J  /.UK    (>\    .\//.S.\/('.\.lA'//:.\.  ^o.^ 

went  at  imcv  lo  the  rcsciu',  ;u'c<»iii[)iiiii('(l  hy  ii  f«\v  iiii- 
iUiiifd  laen.  while  M.  I'diovsky  despatclied  his  Sec-ret.iry 
with  a  ffw  (A)ssacks.  'I'he  daina«,^e  actually  iiiHicttd  was 
not  vrry  {,'reat,  but  tlu- nature  of  ihis  disturbance,  {,'ot  up 
i)y  officials  will)  professed  to  i)e  \\<  II  (lis|iosed  to  the  mis- 
sionaries, but  unable  to  ecjutrol  the  dislike  of  the 
populace,  illustrates  the  methods  of  the-  Chinese.  The 
missionaries'  wives.  Mrs.  H6^\)or^^  and  Mrs.  Kaipiette, 
f(»und  shelter  for  a  time  in  the  Kussian  consulate  :  but 
M.  Tetrovsky  took  no  effective  steps  to  secinr  the  im- 
munity III  the  missionaries  from  such  attarks  in  the 
futiue,  at  least  as  hir  as  I  could  ascertain. 

.\t  len^^th,  on  .\])ril  '2-')l\\,  the  caravan  i)e^aii  its  jom-iiey 
anil  1  iiad  the  satislaetimi  of  seeing'  my  own  section  ami 
that  hired  from  Xiaz  Akun  file  out  nl  Yarkand  before  ten 
o'clock  in  the  mcjrnin^'.  Then,  thai  all  my  proceediiiLis 
might  be  in  perfect  order,  I  wvui  with  Nia/.  Akun  to  the 
Yamen  to  bid  farewell  to  Liu  Ta-jin,  the  ('how-J\uan.  Nia/. 
Akim  had  many  misgivings  ai)out  this  visit  and  show  ed  both 
siu'prise  and  fear  when  I  insisted  mi  his  accoiiii)anying  nie  ; 
hut  a  fi'W  Woi-(ls  siit'tieeil  to  i|iiiet  hisalailii.  I  wished  the 
(how-Kuan  to  \\;i\v  some  personal  knowledge  of  him  and 
to  be  fully  informed  of  tlu-  contract  iit-twcen  iis,  su  that 
there  should  be  no  appearance  of  euiieealmcMt  or  m\  ster\ . 
The  Chow-J\uan  reipiesled  him  to  give  security  for  his 
good  behaviour  by  depositing  a  sum  of  money,  or  to 
produce  some  near  relation  who  mighl  he  seized  and 
[)unished  in  case  Xiaz  .\kim  deserted  me.  These  Chinese 
methods  did  not  entei  into  my  [lurposi',  h>r.  if  securitv 
were  given,  it  would  [irobably  never  l)e  retmned,  and  if  1 
were  deserte<l  there  would  be  littlr  justice  in  punishing 
any  one  but  the  actual  offendi  r.  1  tlu'ri'fore  suggested 
a  compromisi' :  that  the  Chow-Kuan  should  refuse  Xiaz 
Akun  a  passport  for  iiadak  until  he  produced  one  of  m\ 
\  isiting-cards,  si;.;ne(T  and   sealed    by  me,  as  evidence  that 


304     /.\'    11  III-,  r   AXn    CIIIM.SI:    IIKKI-SI'.IX. 

\\v  liiul  fultilk'd  his  coiitnict.  This  |>laii  the  (  how -Kuan 
jidoptt'il,  and,  haviii;;  liandcd  to  him  a  sij^qifd  and  si-aled 
card  for  the  purpcjsf  of  comparison.  I  took  my  departure. 
This  visit  was  (juite  a  success,  lor  Nia/  was  greatly 
imj)ressed  hy  the  threats  of  dire  i)enalties  in  case  of  niis- 
l)ehaviour.  This  C'how-Kuan,  Liu  Ta-jin.  contrasted  very 
favourably  with  other  Chinese  officials  with  wlutiu  I  had 
<lealin^fs.  He  was  an  ahle  and  euergetie  man.  and  unly 
in  one  matter  had  he  taken  any  stej)  which  c(juld  he 
rei,Mi-ded  as  unfavourahle  to  nie  ;  he  had  never  raised  any 
oi)jection  to  my  travels,  and  lie  was  always  read\'  to 
restrain  or  to  punish  those  who  opposed  my  pio^^ress. 

It  was  without  nuich  rej.ri'<'t  that  I  now  turned  my  hack 
on  Varkand  and  set  out  in  the  track  oT  the  caravan, 
which  I  (n'ertooi<  in  theevenine;.  The  march  lo  Khotan 
was  uninteresting,  and.  owin^f  to  \arions  aeciik'nis.  W  took 
lon^'er  time  than  I  had  anticij)ated. 

On  Ma\  11  th.  the  day  after  reachine  Khotan.  1  paid  ni\ 
respects  to  the  C'lujw-Kuan,  and  riMpiested  suidi  assistance 
as  he  could  ^nve.  At  hrst  he  refused  to  help  me  in  any 
wav,  or  even  to  <.;ive  me  ]iermission  to  ^^o  to  rolu.  hut 
after  many  protests  on  my  part  he  agreed  to  jjennit  nn'  to 
travel  to  Polu,  though  he  refused  to  authorise  the  salt  ol 
supplies  to  me  eii  route.  Thus,  while  he  seemed  to  allow 
my  advance,  he  made  it  impossible  i'oi'  me  to  go  forward  ; 
and  when  1  found  further  conversation  through  two 
interpreters  unavailing.  1  fired  a  parting  shot,  telling  Inni 
that  he  and  his  brother  official  at  Kiria  robbed  the  gold- 
diggers,  and  that  that  was  the  reason  why  he  obstructed 
my  advanci'  to  Polu.  No  re])ly  was  made  to  this,  but  the 
Chow-Kuan  promised  to  I'efer  the  matter  to  the  Taotai  at 
Kashear,  and  consented  to  forward  a  letter  from  me  to 
Macartney  by  si)ccially  urgent  post  which  would  take 
only  eight  days  on  the  way,  going  and  returmne. 

The  Chow-Kuan's  return  visit  was  not  i)aid  on  the  same 


sv ()/'/'/■:/)  .1 1  Kno r.\.\.  >>3 

(lay.  us  [jolitcness  iL'(]iiirt'il  it  slioiild  Ix',  but  on  the  f(»ll(»\vin;,' 
day,  when  he.  while  informing'  me  with  a  show  of  <,'o(J(1- 
will  that  I  inif(ht  await  the  arrival  of  the  reply  from 
Kash<,'ar  at  Polu.  made  it  clear  that  ho  would  render  me 
no  assistance.  1  produced  my  pass])ort  and  asked  him  why 
he  would  not  respect  that  formal  document  ;  hut  iii\ 
remonstrance  was  of  no  avail,  for  he  onlv  talkecl   round 


IMi:    I  ll">\\  M    XN     111      Kill.  I  \N. 


ami    round    the    matter,    ^ixiii;,'    lon;4    cxplaiKitions    finm 
which  no  information  could  he  ^^athered. 

It  was  clear  that  1  must  wait  at  Kliotan.  s(»,  instead  of 
delayin*,'  to  make  my  purchases  till  I  reached  Kiria,  1 
he^'an  at  once  to  huy  stores.  b'ora;,'i'  and  coin  heni^'  now 
scarce  and  dear,  1  followe<l  the  example  of  the  nntives. 
and.  without  any  oi'der,  applied  to  the  ( niMiiuiitiii  stnrc^. 
wh(M-e  the  surplus  (loverument  stock  was  hcin;,'  sold  at 
pi'ices     inu(di    Itelow    those    of     the    opm    murkti         Al\ 

J  I 


Mx>     /.\     ///>'/■:/'   ./.\7>    (7//.\7-S/:    7VA'A7:"\7'. /.\'. 

application,  however,  was  rejected,  ami  I  had  l<>  olitain 
special  orders  aiithorisiiif,'  the  sale  lo  iiu'  ol  staled 
(|uaiitities  ol'  Indian  corn  and  chopped  straw.  My  spare 
time  was  taken  up  with  the  insjicction  and  dncturiii^  of 
the  ponies.  '[\)  exercise  the  i)()nies  and  donkeys, 
especially  the  donkeys,  still  seemcHl  l)cneatii  the  (h^niity 
of  the  caravan  men;  Kajii,  now  ^M'own  surly  and  trouhlc- 
some,  tried  to  escape  the  duty,  and  others  drew  the  line 
at  the  donkeys,  wliich  were  left  to  the  care  of  the  most 
luwly  en«^a^'ed  men.  Then  Nia/  Akun  hecame  discon- 
tented, for,  accordincf  to  the  contract,  he  was  not  to  he 
paid  for  days  spent  in  Khotan.  ]U\t  the  contract  was 
nevertheless  a  very  favonrahic  one  inr  liim.and  his  threats 
to  leave  me  <j^ave  i)lace  to  humble  penitence  when  I  made 
the  counter  threat  of  seizinj,'  his  ponies.  The  Chow-Kuan, 
who  was  well  known  to  he  o])])osed  to  juy  journey,  had 
de[)uted  a  Hcf^  to  atteml  to  luy  wants,  and  hy  jui  unisiuij^  a 
reward  of  sufhcient  amount  1  had  converted  the  suh- 
ordinate  official  into  a  useful  friend,  who  assisted  me  to 
hire  fifteen  donkeys  as  far  as  four  marches  beyond  roJii. 
Havin^f  in  vain  waited  for  eleven  days  for  ISIacartney's 
letter.  1  arran<j[ed  to  leave  Khotan  on  May  'i'ind.  Islam 
and  l[)ay,  the  camelman,  I  sent  with  the  two  camels  to 
make  a  c/r/o///- hy  Kara  Sai  to  IJaba  llatim.  as  the  I'olu 
route  was  impracticable  for  these  animals ;  and  Abdul 
Karim  T  despatched  ahead  to  Polu  with  hired  animals 
carryin^f  the  corn,  for  the  further  transport  of  which 
sheep  were  waitiu<,^ 

Our  advance  was  dil'ticull  owin^  to  the  hot  and  dry 
weatliei"  and  the  clouds  of  dust,  which,  consisting  of  fine 
sand  and  loess,  penetrated  the  gauze  of  the  goggles  and 
tempcn-arily  injured  the  eyes.  When  we  reached  Kotaz 
Langar  on  the  edge  of  the  desert,  om-  first  lialting-place, 
the  Beg,  instead  of  sending  us  the  usual  present  of  a 
sheep,  provided   us  with   large  blocks  of  ice,  which  were 


J.r.TTI-.RS    FROM    M .\(  A Rl X l-Y .  307 

most  wclconn',  iiiid  next  mornin^f  :it  diiyl'i'i'ak  I  Inuiul 
MiicartiU'v's  letter,  whii-li  after  a  journey  nt"  five  days 
liad  arrived  during'  the   iiii,dit.      hi   this   lettei-   Ma<-artney 

lllt'oniied    llie    that,  at'tel'   a    })lnlra(ted    ilit(i\ie\\     with    the 

Taotai.  he  had  entered  into  an  expheit  a;,M-eenient  ri'speet- 
injj;  me  :  that  notice  should  he  sent  at  the  speed  of  400 
lis  (about  100  miles)  per  day  to  the  Chow-Kuans  of  Khotan 
and    Kiria  that    I    was  fr(H>  to  ti'avei   hv  anv  route;   that 


\    WMKlt    CAIIUIKK    AT    KlIoTW. 


the  inhahitants  of  Tohi  shoidd  !)(>  told  that  they  were  at 
perfect  lihi-rty  to  eiitei-  into  any  arran<,'enients  they  chose 
as  to  trans]>ort  and  supplies,  and  that  the  Chow- Kuan  of 
Kiria  was  t<»  alTord  me  due  protection  as  lon^  as  I  was 
within  his  jurisdiction.  This  was  exactly  what  1  wanted, 
hut  still  the  douht  I'eiiiained  whether  this  a^'reement  would 
he  cai'ried  out. 

Soon  after   settiiii:  ""i    tri-ni   this  place   we  were  over- 


;,os    /.\'  r/n/rr  .\xn  c/i/\/:s/:  tcrki-s/.w. 

tiikfii  liy  ii  saiulstonii,  wlncli  altamcd  a  stcmly  vt'lucity  <il 
twoMtv  to  l\veiily-li\f  miles  an  Ikhii-.  'V\\v  air  Ixiciiun' 
thifk  with  iiiimiti'  j^ritty  |iailiclcs  which,  while  ahnost 
hhndin^'  us.  overspread  the  tracks  ah'eady  dl-ileliiied,  so 
that  it  was  exceedingly  (lilliciiU  to  avoiil  sti-ayiii^.  h'or  a 
time,  while  leading'  Xia/  Akim's  caravan,  1  could  not  dis- 
tinjLjiiisli  the  proper  route,  hut  fortunately  the  wind  ahated 
somewhat,  and  1  was  ahle  to  recover  the  track.  At  Nura 
we  saw  a  pony  which  was  so  old  that.thoii^di  in  the  midst 
of  ahundance  of  succulent  lucerne,  he  was  unahle  to  eat  it 
and  was  dyin^  of  hunger.  The  ammal  belonged  to  the 
wealthiest  man  in  the  place,  who  left  it  to  suffer  siin})ly 
because  he  saw  no  profit  to  be  derived  from  killiuLT  it. 
After  directing  some  reproachful  words  to  liim  in  the 
presence  of  many  of  the  villagers,  I  obtained  his  consent 
to  my  proposal  to  end  the  sufferings  of  the  aged  nm'mal, 
which  thereupon  1  promptly  shot. 

At  Polu,  where  1  arrived  on  May  80th,  1  found  waiting 
for  me  a  8ia,  an  important  official,  who  liad  conie  with 
his  interpreter  from  Kiria.  lie  told  me  that  he  had  i)een 
sent  by  the  Chow-Kuan  of  Kiria  to  make  sure  that  I  should 
get  no  assistance  m  travelling  to  the  mountains  of  the 
I'olu  gorge.  He  was  a  most  disagreeable  man.  but  to  all 
his  assertions  and  arguments  1  gave  one  reply,  insisting 
on  the  performance  of  the  agreement  whicli  had  been 
made  between  Macartney  aiul  tlie  Taotai.  'i'he  interview 
was  protracted  and  stormy,  and  at  its  conclusioji  the  Sia 
informed  me  that  lie  meant  to  stay  in  I'olu  as  long  as  I 
did. 

Tiie  route  by  which  Islam  and  the  camels  would  travel 
fi-diii  Kara  Sai  to  llaba  Ilatiiii  I  ascertained  to  be  much 
longei"  tlian  I  had  su])[)osed,  and  I  preferred  to  spend 
tlie  time  at  Toll!  rather  tlian  to  wait  at  Baba  Hatuii. 
S<'nding  ^lobammed  .lod  to  Kiria  witli  a  letter  of  re- 
monstrance  to  the   ( 'how -Kuan,  and  with  instructions  to 


.)/(V\7-.    ./.\.\7/.  7//:\S.  .^09 

luiiTdW  iiiuiicy  for  Mi\  Use,  ;is  my  stork  of  CliiiK'sc  coin 
was  ut  a  low  chl),  I  ht-took  iiiystlt  to  ilic  inspection  of 
my  slit'c)).  Of  the  •.)4  which  I  had  left  with  Xurhu  in 
Si-ptemlxT,  14  had  died  and  ■i'l  Wfie  unlit  for  transport 
work,  so  that  it  was  necessary  to  purchase  fresh  animals. 
All  the  flocks  in  tlie  re«,non  were  now  very  thin  and  many 
animals  in  had  health,  and  it  was  with  the  ^aeatest 
dilliculty  and  after  rejectin;;  many  scores  of  sheep  that 
1  was  ahle  to  raise  the  number  of  my  transport  flock  to 
l;^().  Then  the  new  animals  required  some  training:,  or 
at  least  had  to  he  accustomed  to  carryinj,^  loads  and  to 
being  tied  up  at  m^^hl.  We  had  more  anniiuiiition  than 
we  coidd  conveniently  carry,  and  we  found  time  to  reduce 
the  (juantity  by  giving  the  men  who  seemed  capable  of 
handling  firearms  some  practice  with  the  carbine,  while 
Kam  Singh,  Abdul  Karim,  and  Dass  were  initiated  in  the 
use  of  revolvers,  though  ordy  Abdul  Karim  became  a  good 
shot.  'I'he  time  spent  at  l*olu  was  tedious,  our  expenses 
were  heavy,  and  our  aii.\i«'ties  were  increased  li\  Kaju, 
who  became  more  lazy  and  troublesome,  feasting  with 
his  friends  on  the  rations  served  out  for  the  men.  and  at 
the  same  time  fostering  discontent  in  tiie  caravan. 

Then  thc!  Sia  adopted  a  more  favourable  tone  and  made 
many  fair  promises,  so  that  1  began  to  ho])e  that  by  ))ro- 
longing  my  visit  I  mi^dit  obtain  hel|)  in  travelhng  thidugh 
the  Polu  gorge.  This  appearance  of  vicldinL:.  however, 
was  assumed,  and  his  fair  ])ronnses  were  made  only  for 
the  puq)Ose  of  temporising  ;  after  telling  the  Tolu 
villagers  plainly  in  my  |)resence  that  they  were  <pnte  at 
liberty  to  assist  me.  he  let  them  know,  when  I  was 
absent,  that  words  spuken  before  me  weic  not  intended  to 
be  acte(i  upon.  My  men  infoiinecj  me  of  this  imderliand 
system,  and  one  evenmg  when  they  knew  that  the  Sia, 
in  accordanci>  with  his  habit,  was  stujiefuMl  with  opimn.  a 
deputation   came  to  me  and  stated    that    tiny   dared    not 


3IO   A\'  rnu-r  .wn  cuixese  tckkestax. 

iu'lp  me  so  lon^'  as  the  Sia  remained  in  Polu,  severe 
inmislimeiits  bein^'  threatened  for  evi  r\  ad  done  in  my 
favour. 

My     Chinese     money,     supplemented     by     JOO    sarrs 
borrowed  by  iNIohannned  Joo  at  Kiria,  was  only  suilicicnt 
to  pay  my  expenses  for  a  few  days  more  at  Pt>lu,  and  I 
was  therefore  obliged  to   hasten  out  of  Cliincse  territory 
by  the  shortest   route,   througli    tlie    I'olu   gorge.     Three 
days  before    setting   out    I    sent   three    men     to    de[)osit 
ilin|)pcd  straw,  corn,  bread,  and  wood,  some  at  a  dangerous 
part  of  tlie  route  and  the  remaintlei'  at   Kha  Yak  Day. 
While  the  abortive  negotiations  had  been  ])roceeding  at 
Polu,   Xia/  Akun   and    his  caravan   were  at    Imam    La, 
where    forage    was    [)lentiful.   and  wluii    1    was    making 
ready  to  resume  my  journey  they  returned  towards  Poln. 
Heavy  rain,  however,  was  falling,  and  the  Kurab  Kiver  at 
Polu  was  much  swollen,  so  that  Niaz  Akun   and   twn  of 
his  men  in  crossing  had  a  narrow  escape  from  drowning. 
Niaz  Akun   ougiit  to  have  seen  that   tiie  ford,  which  was 
becoming  more   dangerous   every   iniinilr.  was  iin|ii-actic- 
able.  but  he  i)crsisted  for  a  little  hunger  in  his  attempt  to 
bring  the    caravan    io    the   I^jIu  side.     A   strongly  built 
pony  he  had   just  ridden  across  became  very  restless  at 
being  separatid  Iroin  his  companions,  and,  breaking  loose, 
plunged   into    the    foaming  torrent    to   rejoin    them.     He 
was  speetlily  swej)!  otf  liis  legs,  and   in  a  few  seconds  was 
carried  down  the  liver  for  several  hundred  yards  to  a  bend, 
where  he  managed   to  regain   his  feet  so  as  to  be  able  to 
rejoin  his  conipanions.     J3oth   Xiaz  Akun  and  the  other 
men  were  inditiferent  to  the  fact  that  those  on  the  further 
side  of  the  torrent  were  soaking  wet,  hungry  and  without 
slielter,  fuel,  or   supplies,     >r(jtwitlistanding  Xiaz  Akun"s 
scouting  of  my  efforts,   I   set  m3-self  to  devise  means  to 
transfer  some  W(jod  and  one  night's  provisions  for  their 
relief,  and  for  this  purpose  1  used  two  lengths  of  Alpine 


A'j/r  ni.sM/ss/iP.  \\\ 

ropi'  which  hiid  .si-lilniu  hccii  used  hct'orc.  A  shmt  (Us- 
taiice  below  the  ford  the  river  narrowed,  whilr  the  h:ink> 
there  were  umeh  hi<,dier.  At  the  edj^o  of  the  rocky  hank 
I  erected  a  pair  of  s'liears  made  of  two  haulks  of  timber 
and  some  rope  of  the  ct)untry :  this  structure  was  kept 
steady  l)y  means  of  guys,  and,  the  stouter  rope  being 
passed  over  it.  food  and  fui'l  were  hauled  across  to  the 
opposite  bank. 

When  Xia/  Akun's  men  had  thus  got  supplies  for  the 
night  I  went  back  to  my  own  (piarti-rs,  turning  ovt  r  in 
my  mind  the  <|uestion  of  how  to  gel  rid  of  Kaju.  It  \\a>> 
a  delicate  matter,  for  if  he  wiic  formally  (Usmissetl  lie 
Would  certainly  tin  his  utmost  to  drnw  away  the  men.  and 
new  men  couM  not  be  found  at  or  near  I'ohi.  1  told 
Kam  Singh,  who.  in  common  with  all  the  men  e\i'(  j)l 
(iutYar.  cordially  disliked  him,  that,  owuig  to  the  t)pposi- 
tion  of  the  Chinese.  1  feared  1  would  have  to  return  to 
K'bcttan,  ami  I\am  Singh,  of  his  own  accord,  repeated  my 
words  to  Kaju,  so  that  when  1  consullfd  him  on  the  same 
matter  and  asked  about  a  route  to  Kiiia  1  wished  to 
txplore.  he  was  not  taken  by  surprise.  Tln-n  1  instructed 
lum  to  go  to  Kina  where  he  could  borrow  enough  money 
to  j)ay  his  expenses  to  Varkand,  whitlu'r  1  enj(jined  him  to 
proceed  and  forward  by  the  Indian  trailers'  postman  to 
Kashgar  a  rcjll  of  paper  which  1  spoke  of  as  an  important 
map.  l"'ortunati'l\ .  the  balance  of  pay  due  to  him  was 
veiy  small,  as  he  had  obtained  a  large  advance  at  \  ark- 
and,  and  1  was  therefore  not  recphred  to  reihue  my  small 
stock  of  Chinese  money.  When  iJaju  h;id  sit  out  1  tnld 
the  men  they  were  to  obey  the  orders  of  Mohammed  .loo. 
and  we  set  about  ])re[)arations  for  immediate  (le[)arlure. 


CII  WTVM  XIX 

Heavy  rain — Fresli  aniimils— Haiil  work  — l>i:illi  of  Kasiiii — Snow- 
stonus— Driviii;,'  sheep — Loss  of  bag^'iij,'e — lUeak  bivouac — Saio/ 
Kill — I'onies  stmyecl — False  alarm — Amlian's  '"  kind  "  orders — 
Sickness — Meetiiij,'  Islam  with  camels — Camp  110 — Ram  Singh 
still  imahle  to  work — Imiierative  to  abandon  journey — "C'acliiug" 
K  "turn  to  Ladak — Meeting;  Euroi)eans  again — Green  fields — 
I-i*h  — l)is[)osal  of  caravan — Pleasant  marcli — Srinai/ar — Simla — 
11  >s))it.il  -Kind  visitors — Homewards. 

i  S  ii  \\(Mil(l  be  iuipossibli'  to  ^'ct  nil  llu'  animals  past 
^  *-  tlic  Worst  parts  in  one  day.  I  sent  Niaz  Akun  witli 
liis  section  of  the  caravan,  and  the  two  shepherds  Nurhu 
and  Stanzia  with  tlie  sheep  a  days  march  in  advance. 
'J'hcn  1  received  the  hist  visit  of  the  Sia,  who  tinally 
refused  to  carry  out  the  agreement  wliich  T  liave  already 
<l('scribed.  The  Sia  went  so  far  as  to  say  that  it  was 
Macartney's  wisli  that  1  should  remain  at  I'olit  till  the 
load  \vas  repaired.  What  the  re]»aii-ing  might  mean  I 
did  not  then  understand,  hut  it  seemed  to  me  that  the 
etf'ronteiy  which  could  attribute  to  Macartney  the  wish 
to  detain  nje  W(juld  stick  at  nothing,  and,  turning  to  go, 
I  told  the  man  plainly  that  he  was  a  liar,  a  statement 
wiiicli  did  not  in  the  least  rutiHe  his  temper,  for  when  I 
left  him  his  coimtenance  wore  tlie  l)land  smile  peculiai" 
to  the  Celestials. 

On   June  IMth    1    set   out    with    the  men   and    amnials 
which     had    not    already    gone    forward.     The   caravan, 

3" 


/••A7:\S7/    ./.\7.1/.//..S  313 

exclusivt'  i)f  Xiii/  Akmj"s  section,  consistrd  ol  -J'.)  ponies, 
one  mule, 'JG  donkeys,  two  cimiels.  140  sheep  and  j^'oats 
with  1;^  men,  mostly  f.adakis,  for  drivers.  Our  suppHes 
of  Hour.  rice.  l)iscuits,  l)read.  tea,  ghee,  tohacco,  salt,  and 
spices  f(ir  the  caravan  and  myself  with  some  >niall 
lnxm"ies  for  my  own  use  weighed  ahout  H.OOO  Ihs.  or  al>out 
I'M  tons,  and  at  the  rate  of  U  ll)s.  jK'r  day  for  each  man. 
exclusive  of  rations  of  fresii  meat,  would  la^t  lor  11")  days 
or  rathei-  more  than  sixteen  weeks.  Besides  these  stores, 
we  carried,  of  course,  cooking  utensils,  hedding.  clothes, 
instruments,  medicines,  arms  and  annuunition.  cash,  a 
large  stock  of  grain,  and  a  variety  of  articles  which 
scarcely  fall  under  any  of  these  heads,  so  that  the  trans- 
j)orting  of  our  luggage  was  a  seiious  matter. 

Not  one  of  the  villagers  came  to  give  us  a  send-otf,  hut. 
though  rain  was  falling,  we  were  joined  hy  a  petty  ofhcial. 
whose  duty  douhtless  was  to  ])revent  the  villagers  fiom 
;:iving  us  any  assistance.  Kani  Sin^^li.  Ahdul  Karim. 
l)ass,  and  1  wt  re  nominally  jtroxided  with  ndnig  |ioiiies. 
hut  when  leaving  I'olu  all  w» n-  on  foot,  except  Kani 
Singh,  wlio  rode  in\  |>"iiy.  All  tlie  annuals  wt  re  frt-sli. 
and  as  the  ponii-s  ku-ked  and  scampered  ahout.  unsettling 
their  loads,  they  gave  us  nnudi  tiouhle.  The  solitary 
mule  always  kept  aloof  from  the  poni('>.  and  marched 
sedati'l\  with  the  donkeys.  I  did  my  \)vs\  to  help  the 
caravan  men.  and  walkeil  in  front  leading  a  string  of 
ponies,  the  heads  of  those  ludiind  heing  tied  to  the  tails 
of  those  hefore.  When  wc  reached  Alajoi.  where  the 
young  corn  was  gn-en  and  tempting,  the  animals  rushed 
fiom  the  tra(d<  to  feed  on  the  ficsh  stalks:  and  though  it 
was  impossihie  to  keej)  tlum  oiV  ahi>gether.  the  villagers 
seemed  (piite  miconcerued.  iievi-r  even  appi'oaching  to 
protect  their  property.  I'"uithei"  on.  where  there  sei-nied 
no  temptation  to  leave  the  hiaten  track,  the  ponies  would 
insist  on  havmg  their  own  wa\  :    and  when  a  uioup.  tied 


314     /V    /7/»7:"7'  .IX/)    C/I/X/uS/i    TCRK/iSTA.W 

together,  chose  thfteniit  inuks  thi'  result  was  einharras- 
sin^,'.  A  few  miles  ai)ovf  AlajOi  we  camped  for  tlic  iii^lit 
on  a  small  piece  of  level  ^'roiiml  on  the  rif^ht  hank  of  the 
Kurah  Kiver,  where  there  was  ^a-ass  i)ut  no  fuel.  In  tlic 
morninj^  the  rain  was  still  faliin^^  and  our  clothes  were  as 
wet  as  they  had  heen  the  ni^dit  hefore  ;  hut  our  tents  of 
millerained  cloth  ahsorhed  scarcely  any  moisture,  so  that 
we  did  not  rccpiire  to  wait  till  they  dried  before  packing,' 
them  up.  The  aninuils  could  not  all  he  loaded  at  once, 
and  those  which  were  first  ready,  instead  of  waitinj,' 
patiently  for  the  others,  went  off  to  visit  tlicii-  com- 
panions. The  ponies  galloped  off,  kicking  and  fighting 
with  each  other,  while  the  donkeys  qtiietly  lay  down 
and  tried  to  roll  over  on  their  hacks.  These  jiroceed- 
ings  were  trying  to  our  tempers,  hut  at  Iciigtii  a  start 
was  nuide  up  the  narrow,  stony  valley  on  a  track  where 
then*  was  harely  room  to  march  in  single  file,  and  where 
trouhle  constantly  arose.  The  loads  of  the  animals  would 
shift  and  require  readjustment,  .ir  a  pony  would  get  into 
some  awkward  })redicament,  irom  which  it  could  he  extri- 
cated (Jiily  w  itli  danger  and  difrtculty  ;  or  the  mule  would 
run  back  from  the  donkeys  for  a  long  distance,  going 
faster  and  faster  tlie  more  rapidly  he  was  pursued.  1 
f<jund  that  Nia/  Akuii  had  not  got  all  his  section  of  the 
caravan  over  the  most  ditilicult  part  of  the  track  when  1 
came  in  sight  of  him,  hut  I  could  give  him  no  help  nor 
even  pass  the  laden  donkeys  of  my  own  section,  for  these 
Were  liU(l(lle<|  together  (jn  the  declivity  leading  down  lu 
the  gorge  (jn  the  further  side  of  which  I  was  to  spend  the 
ni'dit.  Abdul  Karim  and  liabzung,  zealous  and  hard- 
working  men,  rearranged,  as  they  had  done  often  before, 
the  loads  of  the  donkeys,  and  drew  these  animals  to  a 
spot  where  one  could  ])ass  them  without  falling  down  the 
mountain-side.  Though  our  course  lay  up  the. valley,  the 
track  here  led  l)y  a  very  j)recipitous  descent  d(n\  n  to  th(; 


••         ^^v'^'f  T-W     .V    "^ 


--   <e 


w/ 


>A.\..tKi>U.-)    UK.-.CKNr    IN     IHt    i'OLU    GORGF. 


IIAKD    WORK.  315 

hottoiii  of  tlie  t^'or^'c.     Ijadcii  donkeys,  patient  and  sure- 
footed tliougli  they  are,  eaiise  eonsiderable  tiouble  when 
travelling  on  steep  «,'round.  for  they  plant  tlieir  liind  feet 
so  very  close  to  their  forefeet  that,  no  matter  how  tight 
the  hreeching  and  additional  ropes  are  made,  the  saddles 
and  loads  constantly  slip  forwards  to  their  necks.     \\'hen 
we  reached  the  bottom  we  had  at  once  to  make  prepara- 
tion to  scale  the  o))p()site  hank,  and  in  this  labour  we  had 
the  assistance  of  two  men,  whom  we  had  met  soon  after 
leaving  Camp  \i\'<\.     The  animals  had  to  he  unloaded;  the 
baggage  had  to  l)e  carried  by  the  men  up  the  steep  roeky 
slope;   then  thi'  animals  had  to  be  heljx'd  up  and  reloaded 
where  the  track  was  again  sufficiently  broad.     The  lal)()ur 
was  difficult  and  dangerous,  and  when  the  worst  of  it  had 
been  accom[)lislu'd,  \\(>  looked  for  ground  suitable  for  the 
night's  quarters.     Our  bivouac  was  long  and  straggling; 
some   of  the   baggage   was  still  at    the  foot  of  the  rocky 
ascent  ;    the  donkey  loads  were  deposited  (»n  the  to})  oi 
a  high    steel)  ridge    wlu're    then'    was  some   good  grass, 
while   some   of  our  belongings    were   set    down    beside  a 
large  shelter  foiined    by  boulders.      Leaving  my  section 
of  the  caravan.   1   went  forward  to  n-connoitrc  and  help 
the  men  ;   and  when,  after  dusk,  I  ri'turni'd,  I  bmnd  Kam 
Singh   and   Dass  levelling  a   i)laci'    fur   me    to    slee]t   on. 
'I'hese  men,  however,  laicly  made   the    best  use   <»f   theii' 
surroundings,  and  1  had  to  look  for  a  s[)ot  where  I  might 
hope    for    some    slight    shelter    from     the    (lri\ing    sleet. 
Having  levelled  a  i)iece  of  groimd  where  the  stei'p  cliffs 
atfonb'd  a  little  protection.  I  set  up  a  bo.\  and  the  eamp- 
table  so  that  they  would  slu-lter  my   fare,   at   K'ast   until 
the  direction  of  the  wind  changed.      In  the  gorge  Sonam 
had    "  cached  "'   supplies,   so   that    we   had   abundani-e    of 
food;   and   when    I    liad  partaken  of  the  food  wliicli    Pass 
had  piepared   for  us,   I   was  glad  to  taki'  olf  some  of  my 
wet  clothes  ami  serk  sl.rp. 


3i6   /.y  riiii/r  .\\n  ciiixusi:  i lrkhs r.w. 

After  ii  loii^^  (hiy  ot  unusually  fati^aiiii','  labour  1  \v:i?> 
ready  for  repose,  and,  having'  enjoyed  a  hot  meal  with 
refreshing  tea,  I  slept  soundly,  untroubled  by  the  cold. 
raw  air  or  the  heavy  fall  of  sleet  to  whieh  1  was  e.\}»osed. 
In  the  morning'  we  rose  with  daylight,  and  liaving  packed 
our  bedding  and  warmed  ourselves  with  in  a  ira,  we 
resumed  our  task.  1  was  leading  h)rwar(l  a  couple  of 
i\(it:i]il.'    pipniix.    wlicit     I    heard   oni'    of    the   new    men 


Sonaui  SaiiK-  Suuuiii. 

TVl'LS    UK    l.AI>AKI    LAUAVA.N    MK.V. 


calling  after  me,  "  Sonam,  Sonam  I  "  S(jnam  Sang,  who 
was  near  me,  went  t(j  find  out  what  was  wrong,  and. 
to  my  alarm,  shcnited  to  me  across  the  valley  that 
Sonani  was  killed.  S(jnam  had  been  a  great  friend  of 
Sonam  Sang,  who.  when  he  had  announced  his  death, 
covered  his  face  with  his  hands  and  wept.  h'or  my 
part  I  was  hotli  ^aieved  and  angr}',  for  here  was  the 
direct    consequence    of    Chinese    opposition,   and   I  gave 


ni-.MlI    or    K.\S/M.  ^\7 

vent  to  my  l\x'lin<,'s  with  "  ciu>rs  not  Iniul  hut  dec))." 
As  soon  as  I  was  (lisencuinlK'icd  of  tlic  ponies.  I  went 
to  ascertain  liow  the  accident  had  occurred,  and  learned 
that  it  was  not  Sonani  hut  Kasini  that  had  heen  killed. 
Wheu  I  readied  the  spot  I  peered  over  the  edj^e  of  the 
precipice,  and  saw  Ahdul  Karini  standing  beside  the  life- 
less body.  Kasini  had  been  tifjhteninj:^  the  ro]ie  which 
fastened  a  pony's  load,  but  instead  of  doin;.,'  so  accordin*,' 
to  the  standing'  orders  as  advised  at  the  tiin«'  by  Sonani. 
with  tln'  pony  turned  across  the  track,  he  had  pulled  with 
his  back  to  the  precipice,  and  one  foot  af,Minst  the  load,  so 
that  when  the  I'ojx'  brokf  nothing'  could  save  him. 

Kasim  was  a  caravan  man  whom  I  had  en^^af;ed  in 
Kash<,'ar,  a  f,'ood  worker,  but  an  obstinate  despiser  of  rules 
and  refjulations.  With  little  experience  in  caravan  work, 
he  would  never  take  advice  from  ;m\  of  the  other  men, 
l)ut  would  do  thing's  in  his  own  way.  On  tbe  day  before 
the  fatal  accident  he  had,  against  the  remonstrances  of 
Abdul  Karini  :iiid  others,  tried  without  \\v\\)  to  take  a 
laden  pony  over  the  most  dil'ticult  part  of  the  ascent, 
with  the  result  that  the  pony  just  escaped  being  killed. 

As  we  advanced  we  had  to  face  blinding  snow  and  sleet. 
but  at  length  reached  Kha  Yak  Day.  when'  we  overtook 
Xiaz  Akun's  section  of  the  caravan,  from  which  oiu-  ])ony 
had  been  lost  by  a  fall  from  a  clit!'.  The  pitiless  and 
l)linding  sleet  continued;  the  men  were  cold  and  wet.  and 
the  cold  and  hungry  animals  were  driven  from  place  ti> 
place  in  search  of  food  and  sheltei-  which  did  iml  t\i>i. 
We  found  fuel  enough  to  boil  the  water  for  tea.  and  there 
was  a  small  cave  of  loess,  round  the  mouth  of  which  I 
made  a  barricade^  of  boxes  and  sacks  so  as  to  foim  a 
shelter  against  the  snow.  This  place  of  rest  was  jusi 
large  enough  to  lie  down  in.  not  high  enough  to  sit 
up  in.  but  I  had  to  share  it  with  some  of  mv  sIkm^ji 
and  goat^.   winch    would   not    be  turned   out. 


,:;is    /.\-  riiinr  Axn  ii/ix/isn  t(A'a/:s7'.i\. 

1  wished  lo  rt'tiiiii  tlic  services  of  tlio  two  new  men  :  and 
alt liouL,di.  tlir()U,L;li  Mi'lianinie(l  .loo,  I  dfl'ered  tlieni  \\a;^'es 
many  times  t^qvatei-  than  they  could  possibly  ^ci  other- 
wise, they  declined  all  overtures,  and  i-eturiicd  to  their 
own   land. 

Heing  doubtful  whether  water  c(iuld  be  obtained  close 
to  the  north  side  of  the  At  To  I'ass,  I  set  out  early  in  the 
morning  to  make  a  search.  On  my  way  I  saw  one  very 
obvious  effect  of  the  rain  and  sleet  :  the  stones,  loosened 
by  the  superabundant  moisture,  rolled  and  bounded  down 
the  mountain-sides  in  showers,  from  which  it  was  at  times 
necessary  to  take  slieJler  under  the  cliffs.  On  overtaking 
the  two  men  who  had  been  sent  forward  with  the  trans- 
port sheep,  T  sent  back  Stanzin,  who  had  been  accus- 
tomed to  caravan  work,  and  I  endeavoured  to  take  his 
place.  The  work  of  driving  sheep  was  new  to  me,  and, 
simple  though  it  may  appear,  I  found  it  very  difficult. 
The  animals,  hungry  and  scared  by  the  falling  stones, 
could  not  be  made  to  go  forward,  but  remained  huddled 
together  in  the  bottom  of  the  narrow  valley,  in  spite  of  all 
my  shouting  and  pushing  and  stone-throwing.  Kecognis- 
ing  tiiat  sheep-driving  was  not  my  proper  vocation,  I  left 
them  to  Nurbu  and  went  to  look  |^'or  water.  My  search 
was  fruitless,  so  that  we  had  to  halt  in  the  valley  at  the 
furthest  place  where  water  could  be  found.  By  the  time 
1  had  helped  Xurbu  to  unload  the  sheep  I  felt  weary, 
feverish,  and  too  weak  to  return  to  the  caravan.  For 
several  hours  I  spent  the  time  in  alternately  looking  for 
the  caravan  and  seeking  shelter  in  a  dry  but  shallow 
water-course  from  the  blinding  snowstorm,  while  tlu^ 
tired  sheep  wandered  about,  bleating  pitifully,  searching 
for  grass  where  no  grass  was  to  be  found.  Then  Niaz 
Akun  came  up  and  reported  that  one  of  my  ponies  had 
fallen  over  the  precipice  and  been  killed.  Th(^  pony,  he 
said,  was  one  whicli  had  carried  monev,  and  its  load  had 


S.]RO/:    ATA.  :;i9 

hcL'ii  shuUc'iutl  iind  ciinie-d  away  by  ihc  toricnt.  The 
accident,  however,  proved  to  Ix-  less  serious:  a  pony 
l!id(>n  with  beddinf,'  and  a  small  cane  trunk  containinj,' 
II  litth'  money  had  l)i)lttil  :  tiic  load  had  jjeen  eau^dit 
hy  a  proj»'<'tin<^  rock,  and  the  pony  pi('ci|)itated  ovrr  the 
very  rocky  mountain-side.  Sonani,  in  a  ^Mllant  hut 
unsuccfssful  attempt  to  save  thi'  pony,  had  het'ii  kic-ked 
in  the  face  and  had  many  of  his  teeth  knocked  out.  'i'lie 
bedding  was  found  uuinjurcii,  but  the  cane  tiuid<  was 
smashed  and  its  contents  scattered.  Tlie  low  banks  of  the 
dry  water-courses,  which  ran  so  as  to  form  a  sort  of  delta, 
atTorded  some  slight  protection  from  the  sleet,  but  the 
wood  we  had  for  fuel  was  dam[),  and  there  was  dithculty 
in  getting  hot  water  for  tea.  The  men,  however,  did  not 
pass  this  cold  and  cheerless  night  supperless ;  but  the 
animals  n'c<'ivcd  notliiiiL;  niorr  than  a  small  t'ccd  of 
corn. 

Next  morning  the  wcatlur  was  good,  and  in  a  few 
hours  the  sun  shone  brightly,  (living  my  riding  poiu' 
to  Ham  Singh.  I  went  with  Hab/.ung  to  look  afti'r  the 
donkeys;  for  in  the  ascent  of  the  .Vt  To  Pass,  their  loads 
constantly  slippt'd  l)ack,  and,  when  we  reached  the  sumnut, 
they  had  to  be  rearranged  for  the  descent.  The  sur- 
rounding mountains,  covered  with  snow  to  their  bases. 
l)resented  an  aspect  very  dilTerent  from  tluir  ajjpearance 
in  Sei)teml)er,  and  it  was  not  easy  to  guide  the  caravan 
by  the  direct  route  to  Saroz  Kul.  which  was  invisible  till 
we  were  within  a  few  nnles  of  it.  I  had  hoped  to  halt  at 
C'amp  1  !•'),  iiut  there  was  no  water  neai-  that  spot,  and  we 
pitched  our  tents  between  low  mounds  of  whitish  cla\ 
close  to  Saroz  Kul.  Both  Ham  Singh  .md  1  had  begun 
to  feel  the  elVects  of  the  exposuie  and  hardship  We  bad 
undergone  since  leaving  Tolu.  'J'bi'  temperature  <»f  the 
air  was  only  'X\"  V.,  but  our  bodies  had  abnormallv  high 
temperatures,  though   at   D   p.m..  when    1    n-tired  for  the 


320    /x  77/>/:t  ./.\7)  (7/rv/:s/:  tcnk/-:st.\\. 

niglil  willi  all  my  flotlu-s  on,  1  (.oukl  ii(»t  \i^v{  warm  till  1 
had  (iDsed  myself  with  Dover's  powder. 

In  the  morninp;  we  found  that  some  of  the  animals  had 
strayed  and  it  was  necessary  to  remain  in  our  present 
quarters  for  that  day.  ])ut  we  found  some  <,'ood  fjrass  at 
a  httle  distance  from  the  cam}).  Ahout  a  mile  off  were 
some  low  hills  whence  the  site  of  Camp  ll.j  could  he 
seen  ;  hut  1  was  too  weak  to  walk  to  those  hills,  and  in 
i-eturnincr  from  the  attemj)t  1  hccame  so  tired  that  1  hail 
to  rest  several  times. 

On  the  next  morninp;  ei<,dit  })onies  and  four  doidvcys 
were  missing,  and  parties  were  sent  out  to  search  for 
them.  Ahdul  Karim  had  not  gone  far  when  he  sent 
hack  for  his  sword  and  carl)ine,  saying  that  he  had 
seen  men  hurriedly  driving  away  the  donkeys.  Many 
ponies  happened  to  he  in  the  camp  heing  shod,  and  no 
time  was  lost  in  sending  help.  Kahzung,  the  lightest 
and  holdest  lidci-  left  hehind.  was  sent  with  arms  and 
anununition  to  Ahdul.  while  I.  accompanied  hy  Kam 
Singh,  Mohammed  doo,  and  Xiaz  Akun,  armed  with 
carhines,  set  off  in  pursuit  of  the  supposed  robhers. 
Owing  to  the  thinness  of  the  air,  my  strongly-huilt 
and  well-bred  pony  was  unable  to  go  at  a  faster  rate 
than  a  slow  trot,  the  ground  sloping  gently  upwards 
in  the  direction  we  were  going.  The  men  driving  off 
the  donkeys  at  first  liastened  away  when  we  came  in 
sight,  but.  being  alarmed  at  our  carbines,  they  halted 
and  told  us  who  they  were.  They  turned  out  to  he 
natives  of  Kiria  returning'  from  a  temporary  post  which 
had  been  formed  near  Aksu.  When  wt;  and  they  w<m-<' 
satisfied,  they  returned  with  us  to  Saroz  Kul,  and  the 
Chinese  official  who  had  command  of  the  small  expedition 
told  me  what  his  orders  were.  A  temporary  station  had 
been  formed  at  Aksu  to  demonstrate  to  me  that  I  was  on 
Chinese  ground;  niv  efforts  to  travel  thither  bv  the  direct 


./.)//;. /.\".S    -K/XP'    fVv7V:A'.s.  3JI 

route  liiul  met  with  ohstniftion  ;  l)iit  liicilitics  had  huen 
pnnidcd  for  my  tniVfUiii^'  l)y  the  Kani  Sai  routi-.  Now 
that  I  liad  traversed  the  shnrt  route,  tliese  men  were 
eoiiiuiaiided  t(i  destroy  it,  and  they  received  orders  also 
to  kee|)  a  strict  Inok-oiit  for  troops  and  travellers  coming' 
fi'oin  LadaU,  and  to  send  as  speedy  notice  as  pt)ssihlc  to 
Kiria  of  their  ai)proaeh.  The  Chinese  evidently  con- 
sidered tliat  my  piir[)ose,  instead  of  being  strictly  geo- 
graphical, was  political  or  military,  and  that  I  was 
bringing  supplii's  for  troops  advancing  fmm  India  hy 
Ladak  to  rolu.  I\\(M  the  i^'iiorance  respecting  other 
nations  shown  hy  the  Chinese  ot'licials  in  Sin-Chiang 
will  hardly  aceount  loi'  this  dread  of  invasion  from 
India.  l*rohalil\  M .  r<li'ovsky  )m|»artcd  to  the  Taoiai 
at  l\ash;^'ar  the  notion  that  the  Indian  (iovernnii'nt 
desired  to  open  11})  the  route  nominally  lor  trade,  hut 
ri'ally  to  prepare  the  way  for  troops  to  take  I'ohi,  Kiria. 
and  other  towns.  The  Russian  Consul-General  could 
searcely  believe  in  the  existence  of  such  a  pm'pose.  but, 
absurd  and  imj)racticable  as  it  woidd  be,  it  woidd  not 
be  too  much  for  tlir  i;_'iioraiit  credulity  of  the  Taotai. 
"Information"  concerning  British  schemes  supplied  by 
M.  I'etrovsky  would,  moreover,  be  interpreted  as  "in- 
structions" or  "  oideis  "  to  the  Taotai.  and  tlie\  woiilil 
be  acted  oil  with  the  design  of  opposing  and  ihwartiii;,' 
J-Jritisb  travellers,  though  their  journeys  could  not  possibly 
utTect  Uussian  inti'rests. 

The  si!vere  weather,  scarcity  of  ^-rass.  ami  unusual 
exertion  ever  since  leaving  Camp  \^V.\  had  been  trying 
for  till"  sheep,  and  several  of  them  had  ilieil  or  ha<l  beconu' 
so  weak  that  they  had  to  be  slau;;htert(l.  It  was  now 
the  niiddh  of  dune  and  yet  no  new  grass  was  to  be  found. 
In  tlu^  narrow  part  of  the  valley  above  Aksu.  better  known 
as  Chadder,  ici'  and  siiow  had  i-ollected  thick  and  dee[\ 
apparently    indicatiiiL;    that    the    winter    had    been    more 


;•■    /.\'  riiir.r  .\\n  ciiiMisn  itrki-.s r.w. 

sfwrt'  and  proldii^cd  than  usual.  Tlic  (•(•uttius  ^\[  tlic 
luedic-iuc  clu'sl  weri'  now  in  t-onstanl  dcinand  ;  li'vci-. 
rlu'unialisni.  licadaclii's  dur  to  i-arct'act ion  nt  the  air, 
were  conn non.  and  when  wc  ivaclu'd  J^al)a  llatun.  I  was 
so  weak  that,  liavin;^  left  the  eauip  t(j  search  lor  water,  I 
was  unable  to  walk  hack.  Tiie  natives  of  Sin-Chian^f 
who  accompanied  nic  were  accustomed  to  live  at  an 
altitude  of  not  less  than  about  I, ()()()  feet,  yet,  owin^'  to 
our  hi^di  elevation,  several  of  them  suffi-red  frcciuently 
from  headaches  and  coUNiipatioii,  and  they  could  imt 
keep  uj)  with  the  slow-^M)in<4  caravan,  while  I,  accus- 
tomed to  livi"  hut  little  alxjve  tlie  level  of  the  sea,  was 
never  seriously  affected  e.\ce|)l  that  1  hrcathcd  more 
ra])idly. 

At  J-5alia  Jlatun  we  lound  fslam  and  I[)ay,  who  had, 
with  the  two  camels,  been  waitin*,'  for  us  for  several  days. 
They  had  e\[)erienced  severe  weather,  one  of  the  camels 
bavin;:  bfconic  so  thin  that  it  wotdd  have  been  useless 
lo  lake  him  lurthcr.  Tins  animal  I  ,L;a\c  hi  the  Kara  Sai 
men  who  had  brought  me  about  •")()()  Ihs.  of  corn,  besides 
barley  meal,  ami  1  su[)plicd  them  with  enou^di  Indian 
corn  meal  for  tin-  camel  till  they  should  reach  their  home. 
Near  Kara  Sai  there  would  be  jilcnty  of  cxcrllcnt  feechn^ 
h)r  him.  and  probably  they  would  be  able  to  sell  him  in 
^'ood  condition  h)r  a  hi^di  price  in  the  autunni. 

The  weather  for  some  days  was  threatening/,  and  by 
the  lime  we  reached  To^n-al  Monpo  (Camji  llh  it  had 
In-conic  much  worse.  When  close  to  the  pass  \\v  had  to 
ai)andon  thirteen  sheep,  and  we  had  barely  pitched  our 
camp  w  hen  we  wt're  overtaken!  by  a  blindin;/  snowstc^'in 
which  continued  all  ni;,dit,  and.  in  a  milder  way,  during' 
the  next  forenoon.  Such  a  storm  speedily  scatters  a 
caravan,  drivin;,'  the  hun^ay  animals  far  iiiid  wide  in 
search  of  shelter.  After  the  tents  were  set  up,  the 
caravan    men,    cold    and    wet,    huddled    together   witliin 


iMri-.K. 1 7/ 1 •/•;  7( >  . / /;. / x/Khv  /of  aw/-  v. 


■y  ->  • 


tlit'ir  tt'iit  or  umlrr  a  tarpiiuliii ;  for  the  boortza.  the  only 
fuel,  was  so  (lainj)  that  it  was  l<jn«,'  till  a  hot  meal  eoiild 
be  provided.  Several  of  the  ponies,  doubtless  owinj^'  to 
the  great  height,  eeased  to  eat  even  eorn.  and  (Hie  which 
had  been  oft"  his  food  for  several  days  died  on  the  second 
night  at  this  eanj)).  17,.S")()  feet  in  altitudi'.  It  was  not 
till  near  the  iiid  of  the  st-coiid  das  thai  all  the  animals 
which  had  strayed  in  the  snowstorm  could  be  recovered. 

At  Camp  110,  men  wlm  had  been  sent  to  Yeshil  Kul 
for  salt  rejoined  us,  but  without  having  found  any.  The 
supplies  of  that  article,  which  had  been  abundant  at  the 
lake  in  the  autunni,  were  now  ap[)arently  nearly  all  sub- 
merged, but  Mohannned  Joo  returned  and  succeeded  in 
finding  as  much  as  tilled  one  of  om*  Hour  bags. 

Things  were  not  now  going  well  with  us.  I  was  (juite 
unable  to  walk  all  the  way  from  Togral  Monpo  to  Camp 
ll(».  and  llam  Singh  who.  for  thirteen  days,  had  suftered 
from  abnormally  high  temperature,  with  i)ains  in  his  feet 
and  shoulders,  was  now  loo  ill  for  work,  and  derived  no 
lasting  benefit  frum  any  medicines  that  1  administered.  We 
could  not  i)rolong  a  journi-y  which  was  serving  no  gooil 
pini)o.se.  and  it  bi'came  moie  and  more  evident  that  the 
proper  course  was  to  niake  tor  Ladak.  Some  miles  from 
Camp  110  we  selected  a  suitable  j)lace  to  "cache"  the 
food  and  other  supj^lies  not  re(|uired  for  our  jomiiey  to 
Leh,  dug  a  dee[)  trench  in  ihi'  slony  ground,  and  deposited 
load  after  load,  carefully  making  a  list  nf  all  the  articles. 
Over  the  yak  dans,  bo.sts.  and  sacks  we  sj)read  our  tar- 
paulin, and  eoveri'd  the  whole  w  ith  a  thick  layi-r  of  slon»'s 
and  earth  so  that  pnibably  no  one  outside  our  own  com- 
pany coidd  discover  this  valuabk'  de[)6t  of  fooilstutfs. 
Then  disappointment  and  tUjection  overlook  nw,  and  1 
wearied  myself  thinking  of  the  expenditure  of  time  and 
means  in  preparation  now  absoluti'ly  useless.  I  was  tne 
only  nuMnber  of  the  caravan  w  ho  was  depressed  ;  others 


3^4    /.^■  riHi-.T  .\.\n  ciii\i:si-.   riKKi-.sr.w. 

ivjoifcd  lluit  llu'V  wiTf  ;4<Mn;^  Imiiif,  ainl  Nia/.  Akiiii 
ortert'd  t(i  iu-c«.'])l  liis  (1iscluirfj;t'  witlioiit  |iayiii(iit  Im-  llif 
return  joiinu'V.  an  arninj^'eiiicMit  wliicli.  Ix-in^^  (Mjiiitahli' 
Iroiii  tlu-  point  of  view  of  cilluT  })arty,  was  a^ax'cd  to. 

W'l-  now  advanced,  little  euinhered  with  lu^^^'a^^e,  as 
fast  as  We  eould  travel,  towards  Ladak.  and  1  was  ai)le 
to  <,Miide  the  caravan  to  the  Lanak  La  witlujiit  once 
looking'  at  the  niap.  The  march  was  a  most  drt-ary  one 
for  me.  for  1  was  feverish  and  in  had  health,  with  no 
parj)ose  save  to  reach  my  journey's  end.  At  the  con- 
clusion (»f  the  daily  march  there  was  nothing'  h)r  me  to 
ilo  hut  to  lielj)  in  [lilehin;^  the  tent,  which  was  rarely 
used,  to  writi'  a  few  lines  in  my  journal,  and  lo  make  an 
attem[)t  to  eat  some  dinner.  Milk  1  had  none,  and  my 
diet,  such  as  it  was.  eonsisted  of  soup.  rice.  tea.  and 
occasionally  a  littU'  meat.  Ahoiit  ei^dit  o'clock  I  retired 
for  the  ni^ht.  usually  stretclnnj,^  myself  out  in  the  open 
air.  liefore  reachin«(  the  Lanak  La  I  considered  the 
juiihahility  of  meetin<,f  some  sportsmen  in  Cluing' Chennjo, 
and.  soon  after  crossintj  the  i)ass  on  July  10th,  my  s])irits 
rose  at  the  sif^dit  of  a  small  caravan  of  yaks  approaching'. 
Tile  Ladakis  assured  me  that  the  caravan  must  i^e  that  of 
sonu'  iMiropean.  for  only  sahihs  visited  such  a  desert  place 
as  C'han;^  C'lienmo.  and  when,  after  unloadin<,'  my  donkeys, 
I  sent  to  ascertain  whether  any  sahih  was  near,  I  was 
delij,dited  with  an  alhrmative  rej)ly.  The  traveller  proved 
to  he  Major  (Traham,  K.H.A.,  who  had  heen  (quartered  at 
Lucknow  at  the  same  time  with  myself  several  years 
i^efore.  It  was  with  ^^'cat  pleasuiv  that  1  accepted  his 
ijivitation  to  cross  the  valley  and  share  his  hospitality. 
The  next  JCuropean  I  met  was  also  a  personal  friend, 
(,'aptain  Lachlan,  K.A..  with  whom  I  marched  two  days. 
Aftei-  I  had  crossed  the  Chanj;;  La  my  eyes  were  refreshed 
with  the  rich  ^a-een  of  the  crops  in  the  Sakti  valley, 
for  a  lonj;  sojourn  among  harren  hills  and  sandy  deserts 


Ml' I- r  IXC  i-ci<(M'r.  \\s  AC  MX 


>-■> 


^avc    IMC    ;i     l\<iii     ;ij)[)lt.;c'liltl()ll     <>t     tlif    bcilllty    ol     ItltiN' 
liUld. 

<  )ii  .liil\  iMst  I  rcaclifd  l.fli.  tir«'(l.  (lusty,  and  tliirsty. 
and  entiTJii^'  the  stores  of  a  Hindu  trader  who  was 
acquainted  with  Iviropean  tastes  1  asked  for  heer,  a 
heverat(e  which  I  had  not  tasted  for  two  years.     "  A  pint. 

or  a  quart  '/'  "  he  asl<ed.     "  I'int  he  d d  :  hriiij,'  nif  t\M» 

quarts  to  hc^'in  witli,"  I  iciihcd. 


MV    iMIVVW    MKX. 


My  shoii  slay  at  Ltli  was  enhviMied  hy  pli'asant 
inti'rcourse  witli  new  accjuainlanees.  anion;,'  whom  were 
Captain  W  I..  Ktunion,  the  ener^'elie  an<l  hospitahle 
Britisli  Joint  Connnissioner.  the  nienihersof  the  M<»ravian 
Mission,  and  Captain  and  M  i-^.  Kinu'.  of  the  lvo\al  Irish 
Heginunt 

It  was  with  re},'r«'t  that  1  hath'  ^'oodhye  to  the  caravan 
nitii   wlio  liad   heen   my  companions  in    ni\    wan<l»  rings. 


326    /x  7'//:/:r  ./.w)  c/jf\/:sn  rrRK/iSTAX. 

ospi'fially  the  four  nifii  who  hud  hccii  with  iiif  in  IsOf). 
All  of  thciii  had  svork(Ml  haid  and  ciKhiicd  many  jirivalioiis 
without  a  inunnur.  Thou^di  they  were  naturally  di'stitutc 
of  li,i,ditin^f  c'ouraf(('  they  had  never  hesitat<'d  to  risk  their 
liv(>s  on  (laiifTeroiis  tracks  and  hnakin^r  ice,  iioi-  had  they 
ever  shown  any  desire  to  quit  my  service  even  when  they 
knew  that  my  route  was  across  mountains  quite  unknown 
to  them,  ^\'hatever  may  he  the  p;eneral  reputation  of 
Ladakis.  most  of  those  of  whom  I  had  experience  served 
nie  well  in  tlu^  most  trying  circumstances  of  conntry  and 
climate.  Jii  parting  with  them  I  distributed  amongst 
them  many  of  the  animals  whicli  it  had  taken  much 
time  and  trouhle  to  collect,  selling  the  few  which  I  <]id 
not  thus  dispose  of. 

The  march  to  Kashmir  was  performed  without  tiouhle, 
thanks  to  the  excellent  arrangements,  for  ti'ansport  and 
supplies  at  each  halting  place,  and  I  was  fortunate  in 
having  the  company  of  Major  L.  Graham  and  Captain 
Kiccard. 

On  reaching  Srinagar.  fi-om  which  T  had  been  absent 
about  two  years,  during  whicli  1  had  covered  more  than 
."■).:10()  miles  with  a  caravan,  1  fell  rather  ashamed  of  my 
general  appearance,  for  1  was  in  a  very  rough  and  un- 
kempt condition,  with  a  coat  torn,  worn,  patched  and 
stained,  and  I  attempted,  unsuccessfully,  to  slij)  unper- 
ceived  into  the  dak  bungalow  (State  rest  house). 

To  avoid  the  heat  of  Delira  Dun  and  the  Punjab  in 
August,  r  went  to  Simla,  intending  to  recuperate  for  a 
few  weeks,  l)ut,  being  overtaken  with  a  combination  of 
maladies — malarial  fever,  congestion  of  the  liver,  sciatica, 
rheumatism,  and  gout — I  was  detained  for  two  montlis 
in  the  l(ip>>n  hospital,  where  I  was  carefully  tended  by 
doctors  and  nurses.  The  weary  days  of  sickness  were 
enlivened  by  visits  of  many  friends,  whose  bright  faces, 
kind  attention,  and  [)leasant.  cheerful  talk'  1  shall  always 


//OMI-WAk-ns.  \2j 

l^'nitcl'ully  it'im-inln'r.  As  soon  as  I  was  ixiiuiltrd,  1  set 
(lilt  lor  Dt'lira  1  )riii.  to  wliicli  I  travelled  hy  easy  stages, 
stopping'  at  rnil)alla  to  visit  friends  in  my  old  refjinient, 
the  l()th  Jjaneers,  and  joiirneyinj,'  slowly  in  a  dak  pjliarry 
from  Saiiaranpur  to  Dehra  Dun.  There  I  was  aide  to 
explain  doubtful  points  to  the  officers  and  cnniputtis  of 
the  Tri^'onometrical  Diaiich  of  the  Survey  o|  India, 
where  my  nia])s  were  (haun  and  puhlished.  After  a 
i)rief  stay  at  I'.omliay  I  eiid)ai'ked  in  a  I"'ren(di  steamer 
for  Marseilles,  whence  I  hastened  to  hiiij^dand,  and  on 
Deceml^'r  Ttli,  after  an  ahsence  of  two  and  a  half  years, 
I  ri'a(died  London  so  weak  in  health  that  1  was  sc-an-ely 
ahle  to  crawl. 


("11  AlTI-.i;    xx 

Adiiiinistration — Cost  to  China--Unpaicl  officials  —Squeezing — Taxes 
— Forced  loan  —  •'  Justice  "  —  Prisons  —  Paupers  —  Irrigation — 
Slavery — Agriculture  —  Industries  —  Minerals —  Trade  -Money- 
lenders— Transport  animals — Post — Telegraph. 

rpill%  ])i-(>vincc  of  Cliiiiese  Tiirkt'stan  is  ofticiiilly  callcil 
J-  Sin-('liian^'  iOr  the  New  1  >iMiiiiii(iiii,  Imt  this  name  is 
praelically  unkiunvn  ainoii^'  llic  inhabitants,  \vh(i  are 
content  to  descrihe  themselves  as  natives  of  the  several 
districts,  Yarkan(h  Khotan,  \<'.  The  principal  personage 
in  the  athiiinstralioii  of  tlic  province  is  the  l^^'ntai.  ov 
(Tovernoi',  wln)  i>  always  a  Cliines;'  and  ha--  his  onicial 
residence  at  Urumtsi.  Next  to  him  in  rank  are  two 
Taotais,  one  of  whom  i-esides  at  Knlja,  and  the  othei'  at 
Kashgar,  while  nnder  them  there  are  ( diow -|\  ii;ins  (hy 
Europeans  eonniioidy  called  Amhansi.  who  may  be 
regarded  as  disti'ict  magistrates.  The  Taotais  and 
Chow-Kuans  are  Chinese;  but  inosi  oftieials  of  lower 
rank  are  usually  natives.  The  princii)al  of  these  are  the 
]^egs,  and.  in  tfjwns  only,  Aksakals,  or  heads  of  trades, 
Mohammedans,  wearing  Chinese  dress  and  false  pig-tails. 
Then  come  the  Ming  Bashis,  or  heads  of  thousands,  the 
^"nz  I>ashis,  or  heads  of  hundreds,  and  the  Oan  J^ashis,  or 
heads  of  tens.  The  J>ashis  are  men  in  humble  position 
who,  not  being  required  to  make  any  eomj)romis(!  with 
Chinese  usages,  wear  neither  Chinese  dress  nor  pig-tails. 


\l/).]//.\7S7A',l  77 (W 


.>29 


The  wliole  ^fovcrmiitiilnl  system  is  rotten  Id  the  cdre. 
uikI  every  otticiiil,  I'liuii  the  l-'iitai  (l<i\vii  to  the  meanest 
Oiin  P.ashi  hves  hy  systematic  Iraiid.  The  otVieials  are 
altoj^^ether  unpaid  otherwise  than  hy  phmder.  hut.  since 
their  ri^dit  to  "  s(juee/e  ""  is  reeo^Miised,  tlie  amount  of 
their  income  is  hnuled  only  l>y  tlien-  own  discretion  and 
the  resouives  of  their  districts.  l'ul)lic  oftices  are  nearly 
alwavs   sold:     justice   is   sold;    the  enjoyment   of    puhlic 


IHK    (  IIOW-KI    \N    111     V\I(K\M 


rights,  such  as  water  supply.  I'an  he  secured  oidy  hy 
bribes  ]iaid  to  the  ot'tieiaU  in  ehar^fe.  and  tlu're  is  nit 
immunitv  whatever  fimn  exorhiianl  taxation,  the 
proci'tMJs  of  which  ^'o  mostly  to  the  privat(>  ])ockets  of 
public  orticials.  Sin-Chiang'  is  a  poor  province.  re<j;arded 
as  a  sort  of  Chiiu'se  Siberia,  and  towards  the  cost  of  its 
administration  other  provinces  of  ("hma  contribute 
annuallv  about   -iOO.OOO  taels.  vet  the  Chinese  olVicials  in 


:,:,o    /.y  r/rurr  ,ixn  cifixi-sii  tcrkrstax. 

the  province  ww  understood  to  o])t;iin  hy  llic  \;iriou> 
means  at  then'  eomniand  a  j^ood  annual  revenue.  TIk 
Chow-lvuan  of  \'arkand,  at  the  time  of  my  visit,  was 
l)eHeved  by  a  coin))etent  authority  to  save  about  three- 
fourtlis  of  a  lak  of  rupees  a  year,  and  when,  after  three 
years"  residence,  lie  left  his  former  district  of  Kliotan  it 
was  known  that  he  took  with  him,  anioni^st  other 
savintijs,  iJ87-sarrs  of  gold  (the  csarr  iniiveight  =  the  tael), 
98S  3'amboos,  4,100  sarrs  of  silver,  4-")  yamboos'  woitli  of 
corals  and  kimkab.  and  a  pony's  head  (|f  jade,  the  total 
value  being  not  far  short  of  '200,000  rupees.  The  Chow- 
Kuan  of  the  small  and  pocn'  oasis  of  Kiria,  after  not  nioi-e 
than  fourteen  months"  administration  of  liis  district,  had 
saved  about  S'jO  yamboos,  or  over  half  a  lak  of  rupees,  and 
90  sarrs  of  gold.  In  the  sunnner  of  1898  this  worthy 
received  intimation  that  he  was  to  be  relieved  of  liis 
office,  and  he  at  once  resolved  that  he  should  not  go 
empty  away.  He  issued  stringent  orders  that  no  gold 
should  be  sold  to  any  one  but  himself,  and  tliat  the 
price  should  be  400  tongas  per  sarr.  This  was  about  •")() 
tongas  less  than  tlie  current  market  price  ;  but  even  so 
the  purchase-money  would  suffer  further  diminution  in 
its  passage  through  the  Yamen,  where  some  officials 
considered  they  had  claims  on  it.  These  orders  were  not 
mere  formalities,  for  heavy  penalties  were  threatened  lor 
violation  of  them,  and  ot'Hcers  were  sent  to  the  gold 
diggings  in  tlie  (hstrict  to  note  the  names  of  all  persons 
leaving,  and  the  quantity  of  gold  in  their  possession, 
while  others  were  stationed  on  the  road  to  Khotan, 
where  a  fair  market  price  could  be  obtained,  to  search  all 
travellers  and  their  baggage  for  gold.  Nominally  this 
comi)uisory  sale  of  gold  was  for  the  l^enefit  of  the 
Government,  l)ut  really  for  that  of  the  Chow-Kuan,  who, 
besides  enriching  himself  by  purchasing  at  a  low  price, 
would  be  al)le  to  convert  a  large  part  of  his  savings  into 


rxPAfP  orric/A/.s.  331 

^^)l(l,  which  could  he  easily  and  clieaply  transjxirted  t<> 
China. 

What  otticial  salary  tlie  P'utai  may  receive  T  do  not 
know,  hut  it  seems  prohal:)le  tliat  for  the  j^reater  jjart  of 
his  revenue  he  is  ohlij^^ed  to  make  liis  own  arranj^M-ments. 
Ill  the  iiiiluiiiii  of  IS'JS  iii;in\'  residents  ill  the  ^'a^kand 
Oasis  sent  a  })etition  to  the  h'lilai.  re(iuestin^'  the  removal 
of  Liu  1'a-jin.  the  C'liow-Kiian.  liiu  Ta-jin,  however, 
Itroniptly  despatched  his  son  to  I  rinntsi  with  a  ^ifl  of 
100  yamhoos  to  the  h'utai,  who  was  of  course  jileased 
with  the  ;;iver  and  dismissed  the  i)etition.  The  Taotais 
of  Kulja  and  Kashfjar  are  mainly  dependent  on  their 
suhordinates  for  their  income,  and  consequently  exercise 
a  wise  toleration,  refrainin^j  from  issuin^,'  orders  whicli 
would  n'duee  the  amoimts  of  presents  for  winch  the\- 
look. 

Mt)st  of  the  hi^dier  oflices  are  filled  hy  pmvhase.  the 
purchase-money  ^^oin^'.  either  in  a  lump  sum  or  in  annual 
instjilnieiits.  into  tlie  pocket  of  the  official  who  makes 
the  api)ointment,  and  consecjuently  al)le  men  who  cannot 
or  will  not  ]);iy  the  expected  l)ril)es  are  left  uiKMnphncd. 
( )ne  ('hinaiiian  who  impressed  \\\v  as  heiufjf  a  man  of  L;reai 
ahility  was  thnsdeharred  fi-oiii  tlie  ]iulilic  service  throurjh 
hick  of  means,  and  anotlier,  a  man  who  liad  served  in 
C'hina  undt'r  (lordon,  failed  in  his  applications  for  employ- 
ment l)ecause  he  would  not  confonii  to  the  hahitiial 
]>rihei-y.  Chinese  officials  either  are.  or  pi-etend  to  he, 
i^Miorant  of  the  lan;,Miat:e  of  Sin-('hian^^  and  invariahlv 
employ  ^^>halllme(lan  iiiteri)r(>lei's.  These  men  are  paid 
at  the  rate!  of  W  sairs  in  money,  and  ahout  I').')  Ihs.  of  coin 
and  77  Ihs.  of  flour  ])er  month,  hut  they  are  not  heliind 
the  Chinese  in  corru|nion.  I  have  already  mentioned  the 
injustice  of  one  interpreter  towards  the  iidiahitants  of  Tii- 
with  respect  to  «,n-azin<:j  hmd  in  the  Kulan  Crui  vallev.  and 
similar  cases  were  of  frcipienl  oi-currciice.     A  man  who 


:,^2    /.v  Tir.F/r  .i.vn  c/f/xi-s/-:   rrRK/is/.w. 

had  t'di'  a  tiiiif  Ix'fii  in  Macartiicv's  cinpldN  inciil  ohtaincd 
ail  a|i|i()iiit  iiKiii  iiiidcr  I'an  'i'a-jin,  tlif  Cliow -Kuan  uf 
Khotan.  I)iit  had  not  hi'cn  pi'iinitttHl  cvi'ii  to  si'i'  the 
ina^Mstriitt'  nil  \\v  liad  j^nvcii  a  lew  sarrs  to  the  iiitcr- 
preter. 

Ill  tho  c()lk'ctii)ii  ol'  ta.\<'s  "  s(iii('('ziii;;' "  is  svstcuiati- 
c-ally  ('iiij)l()y(Ml.  A  cortaiu  sum  is  notiticd  to  tlic  ("how- 
Kuan  of  each  district  as  the  animmt  \\hi(di  he  iinisi 
provide;  hut  as  there  is  no  pul)He  intimation  of  tins 
amount,  the  inhahilants  ha\e  no  means  of  clieekin^f  llie 
demands  made  u|ii.n  them.  The  Chow-Kuans  thus 
instruct  thr  luu^  in  raise  as  much  more  than  the 
re<,mhition  sum  as  they  thiiil<  the  people  will  stand 
without  makiii<.f  an  outcry.  The  l^e^^s,  heiii^^  un))aid. 
have  to  arrancje  for  their  own  interests,  ami  they  instruct 
the  Bashis  wlio  do  tlie  actual  collecting  to  le\y  more 
than  tlie  Chow-lvnans  have  asked,  so  that  when  the 
Bashis  have  added  somethin^^  on  their  o\\ii  accduiit  the 
burden  on  the  taxpayers  is  a  heavy  one. 

The  principal  tax.  the  Yushur.  oi-  ^'uzliur  (literallv.  one- 
tenth  part)  is  levied  on  land  which  is  classified  uiidi  r  the 
headin<,^s  "  aral,"  or  well-irri<.(ated  land,  and  "ak.'"  or 
white  land,  the  land  under  each  of  these  iieadin<,^s  hein^' 
of  thre<'  (pialities,  which  are  taxed  at  different  rates.  No 
allowance  is  made  for  oflicial  ernn's  in  xalinn;^'  the  land. 
The  tax  is  <:(enerally  jiaid  in  kind,  the  recot,ansed  pnidui'ls 
bein^f  rice,  wheat.  Indian  corn,  clio[)[)ed  straw,  wood,  and 
dried  lucerne.  It  is  not  unusual  for  the  otticials  to  reject 
the  produce  offered  on  the  ^'round  that  it  is  of  inferior 
quality,  until  a  "  present  "'  is  tendered  alon^^  with  it. 
after  which  all  ohjectioiis  are  witlidrawn.  In  three  of 
the  fouiteeli  Pjc^-doms  of  the  Varkaild  district  the  laiid- 
tax  IS  paid  in  cash,  and,  thou^di  there  is  a  certain 
authorised  rate  for  the  conversion  from  kind  to  cash,  the 
actual    i"ate  at  which   it   is  effected  is   about   ■"{l    per  cent. 


lii^'luT.  Tlif  i)Vt'rc-liar«,'o  is  still  turilicr  incivast;(l  hy  tiic 
simple  expedient  of  reriuirin;,'.  in  jtayment  of  taxes,  21 
loii^'as.  instead  of  K),  to  tlie  sarr  or  tiicl.  Tlie  tax  on 
sales  of  land  is  pnipeiiy  one-twentictli  ol  the  purchase 
priee,  hut  it  really  amounts  to  one-tenth,  and  is  |)aid  hy 
the  purchaser.  The  owner  nj  each  jewass.  or  oil  press, 
has  to  pay  ."<  ton^Ms  monthly  :  the  tax  on  rice  mills  vaiies 
from  I  to  '1  sarrs  aimually,  and  that  on  tlour  mills  from 
■J  to  |()  sarrs  amnially.  accordin^^  to  the  output.  Gold- 
di^'^'t'is  are  taxed  to  the  extent  of  one-thir<l  of  the  ^'old 
they  find.  A  considerahle  ivvenue  is  derived  also  from 
taxi's  on  sales  effected  in  the  hazaars  or  markets,  tlie 
amount  in  ^'arkand  alone  l)ein^f  from  7")  to  '.I")  sarrs  per 
month.  The  tax,  nominally  one-twi-ntieth  of  the  sale- 
|)rice,  is  pai<l  hy  the  purchaser  when  the  sul)]ect-matter 
of  the  sale  is  living'  animals,  hut  h\  the  \cndor  in  all  otlier 
cases.  Besides,  tlure  are  taxes  called  Alhan  (pronounced 
-Vlwan).  collected  at  irregular  times  for  miscellani'ous 
purjxtscs,  hut  coiu-erning  these  I  could  oJ»tain  little 
mformatioii. 

On  March  •!><,  l.s'.j.s,  the  (how-Kuan  of  ^■arkand  called 
all  the  Px'gs  of  the  district  togethei",  and  inhirnied  them 
that  he  had  received  instructions  to  raisi'  a  loan  of  4,'JOO 
yand>t)os,  or  ahout  l'l(),'2()()  sterling,  in  homls  of  two  yam- 
boos  eadi  for  the  purpose  of  paying  dehts  to  hireigiiers, 
presumahly  the  -Japanese.  In  or<lering  this  amount  to  he 
raised  iie  promised  that  the  nominal  inleicst  of  •")  |ier 
cent,  woidd  he  ])aid  to  the  holdeis  of  the  honds  hy  dedui- 
tiotis  from  taxes;  hut,  on  i'e[iresentations  subsetpu-ntly 
matle  hy  the  J-Jegs,  the  scheme  was  dropped  as  heing 
beyond  the  rt'sources  of  the  [xipulation. 

The  administration  of  justice  is  carriid  on  in  accord- 
ance with  the  methods  prevalent  in  other  de|)artnu>nts  of 
govermuent.  In  ci\il  actions  fees  are  exacted  from  the 
htitrants,  winle   in    i  rimmal   cases  lines  are  intlictcd  when 


.vu    /v  /y/.'/r/"  ./.\'/)  (7//\/:s/-:  /y'A"A7;.s/\/.\- 

tlu'V  art'  likrly  to  Ix'  paid.  Kicli  (it'lciKlcrs  arr  tilled  ;  the 
p()(»r  are  beaten.  Sentences  of  iiiipriMJiiineiil  are  also 
passed,  and  for  iminler  the  death  sentence.  TIk'  Chow- 
Kuan  of  a  district  where  a  murder  has  heeii  coiuniitted  has 
to  pay  a  tine  of  eight  yamboos  to  llie  l-'iitai  and  four  to  the 
Taotai  of  Kash«j[ar  or  of  Kulja;  consequently,  convictions 
of  murder  are  comparatively  rare.  In  the  winter  of 
189(S-'.)U  a  Be<^  in  Yarkand  was  murdered  by  one  of  his 
sons,  but  the  Chow- Kuan.  Liu  Ta-jin.  excused  the  p;nri- 
cide  on  the  fi^round  that  the  accusetl  was  drunk  when  he 
committed  the  atrocity.  The  death  sentence  cannot  be 
earrii'd  out  till  it  has  been  conhniicd  at  Irunilsi  oi- 
I'ekin.  Many  months  elapse  before  the  conlirmatioii, 
Init  when  this  formality  is  complete  the  sentence  is  at 
once  carried  out.  usually  by  decapitation. 

Tn  ^'al•kan(l  1  \isited  the  prison,  which  is  probably 
similar  to  liajse  in  other  places.  In  was  in  two  portions, 
one  for  uien  and  the  other  for  women.  The  portion  for 
men  consisted  of  tliree  large  rooms  and  a  very  small 
courtyard.  The  rooms  were  perfectly  bare  except  that 
one  of  them  contained  a  strong  cage  in  which  murderers 
and  dangerous  criminals  were  confined.  In  one  corner 
of  the  courtyard  was  an  open  latrine,  the  oilour  from 
which  was  very  strong  and  far  reaching.  'J'lie  ])risoners. 
according  to  regulations,  should  receive  daily  1  |  H's.  ol 
flour  and  about  '2  lbs.  of  wood,  but  I  was  told  that  little 
or  none  reaches  tliem,  and  that  they  are  supported  by 
their  friends.  The  head  gaoler,  on  receiving  a  small 
present  for  himself,  consented  to  my  giving  to  each  of 
the  pris(jiiers  several  loaves,  for  which  they  seemed  very 
grateful.  The  prisoners  appeared  indifferent  to  their 
surroundings,  and,  though  clothed  in  mere  rags,  made  no 
complaint.  One  little  boy,  said  to  be  a  thief,  had  a  piti- 
ably weak  and  starved  appearance.  Of  the  55  prisoners, 
three  were  in  irons,  heavy  rings  round  their  necks  being 


CORPORA/.  rrxfsff.]f/-:xr  v.5 

tilslriitil  to  ilUIldcutts  so  tliul  the  nm;,^c  ol  Illo\  I'MUMIt  111 
tlirir  hands  was  very  iiari'ow.  while  fetters  were  on  their 
ankles. 

Corporal  puni^hnu  iit  is  usually  intlicted  with  a  short 
stick  on  the  haek  of  the  hare  li'^^s  ahove  the  knee.  The 
|irisonei-  is    held    with    his   face    to   the   ground,  and    tlie 


\N    "l.li    111  1  IM.|  It. 


hlows,  rapidly  ^iven,  eause  a  dee))  diseoloration  of 
till-  skin,  which  hreaks  if  the  pujiishnient  is  undulv  pro- 
longed. Persons  convicle<l  of  minor  ofVences  are  some- 
times loaded  with  a  hoard  (the  eangue)  'li\  or  'i.s  inches 
scpiare.  aiid  weighing  ahont  11  Ihs..  which  iscairied  ahout 


J  J 


6     /.\'    Tllll/l    ASn   UIIM-.SI:    I  rKKlis'l  .w. 


llu'ir  iR'i-ks  (lay  ami  iii^lil  lur  llic  ]iri'sciMl)c(l  tiiiic,  in  oiic 
cast"  which  I  knew  for  thiiiy  days.  Old  nt'tnidcrs  art' 
soiiR'tijiu's  punished  hy  haviii}.,'  an  iron  har  chained  to 
their  neck  and  one  le<,'  for  life.  A  man  whom  1  met 
wandermt,^  abt)ut  with  a  har  .'>  feet  lon«,f  and  VI  ihs.  in 
weight  was  said  to  he  an  incorri«jible  thief,  and  he  had 
certaiidy  the  nio.st  villainous  face  I  ever  saw . 

On  either  side  of  the  main  entrance  to  the  courtyaid  ol 
the  Yamen  in  Yarkand  ai'e  two  wooden  ca^'es,  ahout 
7.^  feet  hi^di,  and  ahout  '1  feet  square  at  the  top,  hut 
wider  at  the  base.  Tiie  top  consists  of  a  hoard  so  con- 
strucleil  thai  it  can  he  fitted  ahout  the  neck  o|'  a  prisoner. 
These  ca^^^es  were  not  used,  so  far  as  1  could  learn,  durin;^ 
my  stay  in  the  town  ;  hut  1  was  informed  of  their  pur)>ose 
hy  one  who  had  seen  criminals  tortured  in  them.  If  a 
prisoner  is  to  he  tortured  to  death  he  simi)l_\  hand's  hy  tlu' 
neck,  a  public  spectacle  till  he  dies.  If  the  sentence  is 
less  severe,  the  suj)])()rts  are  <,'radually  withdrawn  fiom 
under  his  feel  till  his  toes  can  oidy  touch  them,  and  then 
he  is  left  han^nn^'  by  the  neck  to  meditate  for  the  pre- 
scribed time  on  the  hard  fate  of  transf^fressors. 

In  districts  where  crime  is  very  prevalent,  thereaictwo 
Be<,'s.  oiu"  of  whom  attends  exclusively  to  ma^'isterial 
work.  In  lar;^'e  towns  there  are  a  few  "  daroj^as."  or 
pohce  under  a  Bef^.  At  the  gates  of  towns  men  arc 
stationed  ;  tlujse  at  the  main  gate  levy  an  unautlxjrised 
octroi  duty  ;  but  for  the  maintenance  of  those  at  other 
gates  each  householder  has  to  make  a  small  ]iaynient. 

Of  seri(jus  crime  the  most  common  form  in  the  winter 
of  l.sUH-UU  was  robbery,  and  measures  had  to  be  ad(;pted 
for  the  su])pression  of  this  nuisance.  The  orders  issued 
i)y  the  (how-Kuans  of  Yarkand  and  Karghalik  seemed, 
however,  even  to  the  natives  of  tlie  country,  more  trouble- 
some to  honest  men  than  to  robbers.  All  travelling  after 
dark  was  prohibited,  and  if  any  wayfarer  endeavoured  to 


/\u'/w:a's. 

contimu'  liis  joiiiiirv  iliirin^  tlic  iii^'lit  tin-  orders  \s«rc 
that  lie  should  he  aircstt'd  hy  the  ^^iiards  of  tlie  first 
villafjc  he  entt'nd.  Ilv*  ly  \illa;^i'  and  tdwii  was  cdhi- 
inandcd  to  iiiouiit  a  small  <,'iiard  at  dusk  and  to  furnish 
patrols,  whose  duty  was  to  rap  at  the  doors  and  shout. 
"What  hoi  the  jiatrol  is  here!"  <  )ld  olViiidcrs  cau^dit 
stealing'  nii;,dit  Ix'  killed,  and  new  ones  also,  if  they  stole 
over   the   value  of   fifty   toji<.'as.      That    pait   of   the   order 


A    tilliill'    OK    IIK«J(iAnS. 


which  authorised  the  sununary  inllictioii  of  dt  ath  was  not 
taken  seriously,  as  oi)edience  to  it  would  have  involved 
the  risk  of  a  trial  for  nun-der. 

In  Yarkand  as  well  as  in  Kar^diahk  and  Khotan 
pauperism  was  very  conspicuous.  In  (»ne  of  the  dirtiest 
parts  of  Yarkand  there  was  a  collection  of  hovels  pro- 
vided by  a  pati'rnal  ^'overnment  for  the  poor.  When  I 
went  to  see  this  ahode  of  nnsery   it   containeil  about  one 

23 


338     /X    77/>/:T   .l.\7^    C/ffX/iS/-     'rCKK/'.S/WX. 

liundicil  ;iii«l  lliiriy  inmali's,  who  were  supjjoscd  to  rt>ct'ive 
OiU'h  ;i  coat  and  a  jiair  ol'  trousers  annually,  and  a])Out 
.■)()  ll)s.  of  Indian  i-orn  prr  month.  ^^'lR•th(■^  they  received 
anything'  api^roaeliiiij^  that  (piantity  1  doul)t,  for  I  never 
saw  so  many  peopK'  to^'etlur  wliose  faces  so  plaiidy  tohl 
of  destitution  and  lumber,  or  whose  condition  seemed  so 
wretched  with  rat's  and  dii't  and  vermin.  The  paupers 
supplement  tlie  CTOvernmenl  cont rihiiiinii  hy  begginf^  or 
even  stealing,  often  (piite  openly,  food,  fu<l,  and  any- 
thing else  they  can  lay  hands  on. 

The  natives  of  Sin-Chiang  have  a  givat  respect  for 
Europeans,  variously  known  as  Ferengi  (Franks),  Sahibs, 
and  Urusse  (Russians),  crediting  them  indiscrinnnately 
with  wonderful  medical  skill.  If  a  European  modestly 
and  tnithfiilly  disclaims  all  knowledge  of  the  healing  ait, 
or  asserts  that  he  has  no  medicine,  he  is  regarded  not  as 
unskilful,  but  as  unwilling  to  exercise  his  skill.  Ordinary 
ailments  are  affections  of  the  lungs  and  of  the  eyes, 
leprosy,  tumours  in  women,  and  goitre  in  some  districts ; 
but  far  more  conunon  than  the.se  is  venereal  disease, 
affecting,  though  not  with  great  virulence,  more  than 
nine-tenths  of  the  population.  Notwithstanding  the 
variety  of  their  ailments,  they  classify  them  simply  as 
hot  and  cold,  and  confidently  expect  relief  in  their  at'Hic- 
tion  from  any  stray  Sahib  ^\■ho  comes  tlitir  way.  Tlic 
only  form  of  religion  among  the  natives  is  ^lohamme- 
danism,  but  most  of  tlie  professed  followers  of  the 
prophet  are  very  slack  in  observing  his  precepts.  Wine 
and  spirits  are  freely  consumed,  and  morality  can  scarcely 
be  said  to  exist. 

A  noticeable  feature  oi  the  country  is  the  system  of 
irrigation.  In  the  plains  of  the  southern  portion  of  the 
province  rain  rarely  falls,  but  the  oases  are  intersected 
with  canals  and  watercourses  fed  from  rivers  flowing 
frijm    snow-clad  mountains.     The  curse  of   maladminis- 


S/..\  ]■/■./<]'.  7,yj 

tmtion  artecl^  t\tii  the  irri^'iitioii  oC  thf  land,  i"i>r  the 
l^e»(s  and  the  Kiik  Hasliis,  tlic  olYicials  wliose  duty  it  is  tn 
suptTvisf  the  distiihutioii  (if  tlu^  watci".  use  their  power 
to  oppress.  Tlu'V  make  no  formal  claim  to  ])ayiiu'nt.  hut 
unlt'ss  large  amounts  are  fortheomin;,'  they  cut  otV  the 
water  supply,  i^esides  the  instances  of  such  ]iroceedin»s 
already  mentioned  I  saw  at  Karglialik  in  April,  Ls9'.), 
the  fields  of  Xiaz  Akun  waterless  and  parched,  while 
those  of  his  neighhours  were  green  and  flourishing,  the 
reason  of  the  difference  heing  that  Niaz  Akun  could  not 
or  would  not  pay  the  amount  expectecl.  While  in  many 
places  water  is  thus  withheld,  in  others  it  is  wa>te(l.  and 
thi'  canals  themselves  receive  less  attention  and  n-pair 
than  they  re(iuire.  The  dry  season  is  in  spring,  just 
hefore  the  mountain  snftws  hegin  to  melt,  hut  it  would 
not  he  dil'ticult  to  provide  a  pereiuiial  supj)ly.  If  large 
reservoirs  were  constructi'd  and  the  irrigation  system 
extended,  as  it  might  easily  l)e,  the  arrears  of  many  of 
the  cases  might  he  greatly  enlarged.  But  for  any  such 
undertaking  recourse  would  prohahly  he  had  to  forced 
lahour  or  "  hasha,"  for  which  ])aynient  is  made  only 
when  it  is  long  continued,  and  then  not  more  than  half 
the  usual  rate. 

It  is  not  generally  known  that  slaveiy  was  aholished  in 
Sin-C"hiang  so  reci'utly  as  Is',)7,  over  two  thousand  slaves 
having  been  liberated  dmiiiL:  the  live  years  ISU.V  Is'.lT. 
This  course  of  action  was  due  to  representations  jnade  hy 
the  l-Jritish  agent  at  Kashgar  to  tlu-  Indian  (iovennni-nt. 
who  authorised  him  to  procure,  at  fair  compensation, 
the  release  of  all  slaves  who  were  British  subjects. 
Macartney  set  about  his  task  with  ^o  nuich  zeal  that  he 
stirred  up  local  interest  in  his  favour  and  soon  obtained 
the  liberation,  not  oidy  of  slaves  of  Indian  natioiialitv, 
but  of  many  others.  The  Chow-K'uan  of  ^'a^kalld  of  those 
years  set  free  about    three  hundred  at   his  own  expense. 


340    /.\'  riiu:r  .\\n  i///\/:S/-:  /ikki-st.w. 

and  the  Cliow- Kiiaii  of  Kar^^lialik,  who  was  tlicii  in  had 
i"f|tiitc,  and  liad  been  |ittiii(infd  a^'anist  1»\  ilir  ])f(>plc  of 
his  district,  sou^dit  to  iv;j[aiii  favour  with  thf  I'litai  hy 
reK'iisinj,' at  his  own  fost  all  the  slaves  wnlnn  his  juris- 
diction. When  Macaiincy  went  to  Khoiau  to  nr^e  on 
the  work  nf  manumission,  he  insisti'd  on  haviuL,'  all 
slaves  examinetl,  to  ascertain  whetlier  any  amon;^  them 
were  from  India.  This  process  was  likely  to  prove 
trouhlesome.  and  the  Chow-Kuan,  merely  from  a  desire 
to  save  himself  trouhle,  declared  hy  puhlic  proclamation 
that  all  slaves  in  his  district  were  thenceforth  free.  The 
Indian  (Jovernmenl.  winch  had  thus,  at  a  cost  to  itself 
not  exceeding  thn-e  thousand  rupees,  exerted  a  inost 
heneticial  influence,  siMit  a  telef,^ram  thankino^  the  Taotai 
of  Kash^ai-  tor  his  action,  hut  sent  it  hy  \Nay  of  th(> 
'rsunj.,di  Vanien  at  Tekin,  whence,  up  to  March,  IsDU,  it 
had  not  heen  despatched.  In  what  way  Macartney's  ahle 
conduct  of  the  negotiations  was  acknowledged  1  am  not 
aware.  The  work  was  accomplished  unostentatiously 
and  with  no  newspaper  celebration,  for  little  or  nothing 
was  said  about  the  matter  either  by  the  Indian  or  the 
iMiglish  press. 

The  chief  agricultural  produce  of  the  country  consists 
of  ln(han  corn,  rice,  wheat,  barley,  cuitMn,  litiii|i,  tobacco, 
and  V(»getablcs.  Oats  are  not  grown.  I'ruit-^  cmiiiiiii,ii1\ 
produced  are  grapes,  melons,  peaches,  apricots,  plums, 
A:c.,  while  pears  and  apples  are  somewhat  rare.  iMiro- 
pean  potatoes  are  rare,  but  the  Chinese  variety  can  he 
obtained  in  all  large  towns.  .\  iioticjn  among  the  people 
that  rain-Mater  contains  salt,  and  is  therefore  injurious  to 
the  crops,  is  pn^bably  derived  Ironi  the  fact  that  the 
ground  in  many  places  contains  a  good  deal  of  salt, 
usually  covered  by  the  nniddy  deposit  from  the  c-anal 
water,  but  exposed  to  view  when  this  surface  nuid  has 
been   washed   off  hv   heav\-   lain. 


/.\  />(  \s  /  KU-.s.  U' 

Tlic  most  widely  (lilViiNfil  indii^ln  in  Sin-Chiang'  is  the 
\veiivin<,'  of  a  coarse  cloth,  the  poorest  (]iiahty  of  wliich. 
in    texture,   may   hi'  compared   with   a    fine    sieve.     This 

cloth  is  used  to  make  the  ^Mi-nicnts  of  tlu-   j rer  classes, 

hut  it  is  so  inferior  that  it  has  to  he  douhleil.  and  a  liniuf,' 
of  cotton   wool   inserted   hetween   the   folds.      The  richer 
inhabitants    huy   Russian  cloth,    which.   tliou<,di    of    <,'o<jd 
appearance,    is    of    ])oor  quality    and    wears    hadly.       In 
Sarikol   a   thick    cloth    is   woven,    hut    the   output    rart-ly 
exceeds  the  wants  of  the  inhahitants.     .U  Khotan  cotton 
and  silk  carpets  an <1  inminahs  m-  felt  ru^^s  are  produced, 
and  jade  is  cut   and   polished.     These    industries  are  in 
^'eneral  carried  on  in  the  homes  of  the  workers.     Leather 
of  poor  (juality.  resemhlim,^  Ijiown  paper,  is  pre[)ared.  and 
coarse   papei    is    manufactured.       l^'or    paper-makin<,'   the 
bark  of  the  mulberry-tree  is  boiled  and  mixed  with  wood 
ashes,  tlu-n  placed  on  a  lar^'e  stone  and  beaten  into  pulp. 
It  is  next  put  into  a  lar<,fe   cylindrical    vessel    sunk,    for 
convenience,  into  the  ^'round  ;  a  little  water  is  added,  and 
the    whole    is    churned.       When    thorou«,dily    mixed    the 
contents  are  ladled   into   a   line  cord   sieve   immersed  in 
water,   and    are   eviMily    ilistrihuted    with    thi'    lielp   of    w. 
cross-shaped  piece  of    wood,   rotated   l)etween    tlu'   palnis 
of  the  hands.     The  sieve  is  ^^'iilly  lilled  out  of  the  water 
and    placed  in   a   sloping'    position,    ^o   that   tlie   moisturi' 
whicii  docs  not  lun  off  t'vaporates  in  the  sunshint'.     Tlu- 
])aper  thus  made  is  in  sheets  about   double   foolscai>  size, 
wliich  are  st)ld  at  the  rate  of    1    ton^'a  20  dachen  ])er  100. 
'I'he  only  mineral    worked    in    Sin-('hian^^  so  far  as   I 
ever  heani,  was  ^oid.  and  the  wa^hiiiL;  was  earned  on   in 
a  very  primitive  an<l  careless   manner.      In    watchine   the 
nu'ii  and  i)ovs  at  work    1    oi)scrve(l   thai    >onie  of  the   pri'- 
cious  metal  was  lost,  but  they  only  lau;;hed   at    my  solici- 
lude    in    tiie    mailer.      Then    1    washed    some   handfuls    of 
their   taiHiiLrs    and    showed    tin  iii    a    f<  w    brii^bt    grains   of 


34-i     AV    /"//'/•"/■   ./\/^   (//IXh.sJi    J  LRKli.^IAX 

jjjold  reiMaiiiiii^f  :it  llit-  bnitoiii  of  tlie  cone-sliiiped  wooden 
vessfl.  hut.  llioii<,di  they  took  the  particles,  they  reiuiiiiu-d 
iiKhtfereiit  to  their  own  shortcoming's  and  lel'iised  to 
rewash  the  taihn^'s.  The  nietliod  which  was  ^'ood  enoii;,di 
for  their  forefathers  was  »,'()od  enouji^h  for  tlieni. 

Coal  of  very  inferior  quality  is  found  near  Kosarab, 
iuit  thf  demand  for  it  is  so  small  that  coal-mining'  can 
scarcely  be  said  to  exist.  The  copper  and  iron  found  in 
the  same  re^don  are  unworked,  the  requisite  supply  bein^^ 
imported  from  Ivussia.  Practically  the  only  fuel  used  in 
the  country  is  W(jod.  sup[)lemented  in  the  mountainous 
ref^ions  by  dun^^  and  l)oort/a.  Trees  are  consequently 
disappearing',  for  the  planting'  of  youn«;  trees  does  not  by 
any  means  keep  pace  with  the  destruction  of  the  old. 
The  fuel  supply  of  the  towns  has  to  be  brou^dit  from 
ever-increasing'  distances,  and  at  (flowing  cost.  Some- 
times the  trunks  of  trees  are  left  standing  after  bein*; 
denuded  of  Ijrandies,  l)are  and  almost  leafless  poles,  but 
even  of  these  not  many  are  of  any  considerable  size 
except  po])lars,  which  are  <,'enerally  spared  from  muti- 
lation. 

Trade  and  trat'tic  are  carried  on  in  Sin-Chiang  as  they 
have  been  from  time  inniienioiial.  Many  towns  and 
villa;,'es  have  re<,'ular  markets  or  bazaars,  durinj^'  which 
their  dilapidated  appearance  is  bri^ditened  by  the  display 
of  ;.,'audy  wares,  and  the  usually  deserted  streets  are 
thron^'ed.  The  traders  who  frequent  these  bazaars  carry 
their  wares  from  place  to  place,  often  travellinf^  long 
distances  seated  on  the  backs  of  ponies,  with  bag{,'age 
suspended  on  either  side.  Their  wares  consist  mostly  of 
Kussian  cloth  and  chintzes,  fcjr  on  the  export  of  these 
articles  the  Ivussian  (iovernment  pays  such  bounties  as 
enable  Kussian  niamil'actuicrs  to  defy  competition  in 
Sin-Chiang.  (ioods  from  other  countries,  however,  are 
by  no  means  rare.     At   Yangi  Hissar  I  was  surprised  to 


IKAnii.  343 

see  (lis])liiye(l  ainonj^'st  other  tliiiif,'s  a  small  tin  with  a 
label  whieh  was  a  very  close  imitation  ol"  that  used  hy 
Ilimtlcy  and  I'almcr.  With  thehel[)of  Kasim  1  ohtained 
the  tin.  which  i-nntaincd  mixed  sweet  biscuits  of  t]j(jod 
(luality,  made  in  (icrmany,  and  bore  tlu'  maker's  name, 
'riir  ])rie»'  was  hall'  a  sari",  or  about  a  rupee,  a  moderate! 
sum,  il'  till'  distance  thr  ini  had  hccii  hrcju^dil  is  con- 
sidered. 

Kussian  interests,  connnercial,  no  less  than  political, 
are  kept  under  close  su})ervision  by  the  Russian  Consul- 
General.  .\l  ^a^k;lIld  1  wished  to  j^el  a  few  small 
luxurii's  from  Kussian  Turkestan,  and  applied  to  the 
Aksakal  of  the  Andijan  traders  for  some  assistance.  'J'hat 
orticial  was  personally  willinj,'  to  help  me,  but  neverthe- 
less he  soon  mad(>  it  clear  that  he  would  not  allow  any 
Kussian  sul)ject  to  purchase  anythin*;  for  me  without  the 
explicit  consent  of  the  Russian  C(jnsul-General. 

The  trade  between  India  and  Sin-Chiang'  is  in  a 
lan^niishin;,'  condition,  aiui  is  to  a  larj^'e  extent  in  the 
hands  of  Hindus,  some  of  whose  reputations  cannot 
be  considered  j,'ood.  The  I'undit  Boota  luun,  whom  1 
have  had  occasion  to  mention  more  than  once,  was  a  fair 
specimen  of  his  class.  I  had  some  intention  of  purchasin<; 
^'old  from  iiim.  ami  he  not  oidy  asked  me  twenty  tonjjjas 
])er  sarr  more  than  the  current  price,  but  protested  that 
his  [)rice  was  the  ciu'rent  price.  His  weit,dits,  moreover, 
were  false,  i)ein^'  in  error  in  his  f:i\(iui"  by  i»n<'  l)alance  to 
the  extent  of  one-lnmdr»'(lth.  and  by  another  to  the  extent 
of  one-tenth.  ( )ne  Kashmir  tiader  said  to  me  of  another. 
"<)h.  Sahib,  ill'  is  a  ^'ood  man  but  :i  Kashmiri.  ;ind  has 
eheati-d  the  devil  himsell.  "  All  traders,  fiaei^'u  and 
native  alike,  ree;ii-d  a  l-^uropi-an  as  fair  f.,'am<'.  and  demand 
prices  from  him  far  above  those  they  would  accept  from 
each  other.  Sitme  approximation  to  a  ri'asonable  bar«,'ain 
may  be  reached  after  Ion;,'  hiL,';,'lin;,'.  but   if  this  process  is 


344     /^'    TinET  AM)    ClllXI-.Sli    TCRKliS  I'AX. 

ilisii^fivcjiblo  tin.'  wliilf  iiKui  iiniy  ctlccUuilly  liuniMr  and 
vex  the  trader  hy  accepting  the  first  otTer.  He  thus 
represents  liimselt"  as  a  "  f^recn-horn,"  and  the  trader 
thinking,'  he  initj;ht  have  had  donhle  thi'  anionnt  for  the 
askin»,f.  ahases  himself  and  henu)ans  his  folly  in  havin*,' let 
his  victim  ot!"  so  easily. 

Indian  traders  lahonr  under  great  ditliculties.  The 
nearest  lailway  station  is  at  liawal  Pindi.  whence  the 
Iransporl  to  ^  aikaiid  occupies  ahoiit  two  months.  I'miii 
J^eh  to  Yarkand  the  cost  of  carriage  tluctiiates,  hut  is  usually 
about  forty  rupees  for  '240  Ihs.,  the  route  heing  practi- 
cable for  caravans  during  n(»l  more  than  about  five  months 
in  the  yi-ar.  The  merchaiulise  these  traders  bring  is  of 
many  kinds,  all  in  small  quantities,  bought,  not  from 
J:5ritish  manufacturers  directly.  l)ut  from  middlemen  in 
13omI)ay,  Calcutta,  and  Karachi,  and  burdened  with  the 
Inthan  customs  duty.  The  profits  are  conse(]Uently  small 
(aixjut  10  per  cent.),  and  traders  usually  make  only  one 
venture  in  two  years.  Formerly  they  imported  large 
(juantities  of  charas  or  hemp  into  India,  but  the  duty  on 
this  article  has  recently  been  increased  to  such  an  extent 
as  to  be  almost  proliibitive.  There  is  no  commercial 
treaty  regulating  the  trade  between  India  and  Sin-Chiang, 
and  formerly  the  Hindu  traders  had  many  grievances,  the 
foremost  of  which  was  the  impossibility  of  recovering 
debts;  but  by  the  action  of  the  British  agent  difticulties 
of  this  nature  have  been  removed. 

Hindus  engage  also  in  money-lending,  a  profession  in 
which  sonic  Chinese  also  embark.  The  rate  of  interest 
varies  from  7-")  to  l^O  per  cent.,  and,  though  l)ad  debts 
are  not  infrequent,  large  profits  are  speedily  made. 
Most  of  the  people  whom  1  met,  except  officials,  were 
heavily  in  del)t,  the  most  seriously  encumbered  being  the 
transport  contractors. 

The  transport  annuals  in  Sin-Chiang  are  mainly  ponies, 


'I RAXSJ'OR'/-  AMMAJ.S.  345 

donkeys,  and  a  few  iiiuK's.  Caiiu'Is  are  coniiuoii  ahoiit 
Kaslif^ar  and  in  tlu-  coiintrv  to  the  west  of  that  town,  but 
they  are  employed  only  in  winter.  For  two  camels  I  paid 
1.100  ton^'as.  a  hi^h  price,  but  the  animals  were  youn^'. 
well  built,  free  from  sores,  and  in  excellent  condition. 
For  the  hire  of  two  camels  in  IH'JS  the  char^'e  was  five 
tonjias  each  per  diiy.  I'n»in  my  own  experience,  which 
was  not  extensive.  1  believe  that  these  animals  are  not 
suitable  for  ti^avillin;,'  in  such  countries  as  Tibet  and 
Aksai  Chin.  Where  the  country  is  mountainous  and  the 
traiks  danj,'i'rous,  yak  are  often  used  for  transport.  The 
commonest  beast  of  l)urden  is  the  donkey,  which  can  carry 
his  owner,  or  his  ow  ner's  wife  and  child,  or  a  load  of  about 
l(jO  lbs.  Good  donkeys  are  not  easily  procured  ;  an 
inferior  one  may  be  purchased  for  about  forty  ton;,'as  ;  a 
fairly  jjood  one  for  about  100  ;  but  for  an  exceptionally 
tine  animal  IbO  would  not  be  an  exorbitant  jtrice.  For 
the  hire  of  doid<eys  the  usual  char^'e  was  one  mi^kal  each 
per  day,  but  in  Sarikol  the  rate  was  hi{,du'r.  When 
several  doid\eys  wei-e  hired  for  the  journey  from  Kash^ar 
to  Kar<,dialik.  about  1"»(»  miles,  occupyin;^'  seven  days,  the 
charj,'e  was  twelve  ton^'as  for  each  aninuil. 

The  ponies  used  in  Sin-Chiantjf  are  of  two  types,  one 
lar«,'e,  the  other  small  and  thick-set.  The  lar^'e  are  nuich 
more  common  than  the  small,  but  for  travellin<,'  in  a 
niountainous  country  they  an  niueli  less  suitable.  They 
cost  more,  are  more  troublesome  to  load,  ri'ipiiri'  more 
assistance  on  dithcult  tracks,  and  lose  i-oiidition  far  niore 
<piickly  than  the  smaller  animals.  A  Furopean.  with  the 
assistance  of  a  natixc  broker,  niav  obtain  a  lairlv  L;ood 
snuill  ba<,'^'a^'e  pony  for  about  "JOO  tonj,'as,  but  m  tin- 
ne<;otiation  of  the  l)arj;ain  nmcii  patienci'  is  reipiired. 
The  hire  of  ponies  is  about  double  that  of  donkeys,  l)ut  as 
their  ba^'<,'a^'e  load  does  not  exceed  "JIO  lbs.,  exclusive  of 
corn,  till'  use  of  donkeys  is  cheaper  and  more  convenient. 


346     AV    TIIUiT  AXD    ClIIXESli    JIKKI-STAX. 

The  imilcs  ill  Siii-C'liian^^  lu-arly  all  Ix-lon^'  to  ("liiiicsc! 
and  arc  well  looked  after,  as  arc  all  tho  animals  in  Ciiinesc 
ownership. 

The  natives  are  al)out  as  had  ImiNe-inar^U  r>  a^  can  he 
inia.i,Mned.  In  the  course  of  a  march  they  do  not  allow 
their  atiimais  to  di-jnk  lest  they  should  turn  laiiic  fiom 
water  in  the  feet,  and  when  the  nuircli  is  ended  they 
keep  them  tied  up  without  food  t)r  water  with  their  lieads 
hij^h  foi-  several  hours.  The  longer  th(>  march  the  longer 
the  animals  are  kept  hungry  and  thirsty.  I  could  get  no 
reason  for  this  cruel  practice  except  that  it  was  the 
ancient  custom  of  the  couutry.  If  I  pointed  to  my  ponies 
and  explained  the  treatment  which  kept  them  in  good 
condition  the  men  admitted  that  my  system  was  success- 
ful, hut  they  would  not  follow  my  example.  Not  only 
are  man}'  ponies  of  the  natives  half  starved,  hut  they 
suffer  from  galls  and  sore  backs  to  which  no  proper 
remedies  are  appliech  I'erchloride  of  mercury  and  hoiax 
arc  obtainable  at  small  cost  in  the  larger  bazaars,  and  I 
sliowed  the  excellent  effect  of  the  former,  but  the  natives 
would  not  purcliase  them.  One  transport  contractor 
procured  the  drugs,  but  he  did  so  only  to  please  me,  not 
for  the  sake  of  his  ponies.  The  transport  contractors 
being  ignorant  of  tlie  proper  treatment  of  ponies,  impro- 
vident, and  often  burdened  with  debt,  occasionally  make 
contractswhich  they  have  not  the  means  of  fulfilling.  A 
glaring  instance  of  this  was  shown  by  Abdul  Khahk,  who 
for  a  time  was  my  caravan  bashi.  He  contracted  with 
certain  traih'rs  to  carry  merchandise  sufficient  to  load 
eighty  ponies,  from  Varkand  io  Leh,  and  he  received  full 
pa^ynient  in  advance.  Jiut  he  only  possessed  forty  ponies, 
and  these  he  so  over-worked  and  under-fed  that  very  few 
of  the  loads  reached  Leh.  The  traders  could  obtain  no 
redress,  for  the  contractor  had  nothing  worth  seizing. 

Such  postal  arrangements  as  exist  in  Sin-Chiang  have 


J'OSJAL    AK/<.l\(,l:MJ:\TS.  347 

l)t'('n  iiiiuU'  simply  ;iii(l  soU-ly  lor  olHrial  pMr[)()si's,  und  it 
Wiis  plainly  the  otVicial  (Icsirc  that  the  system  should  not 
he  extended.  The  post  does,  in  fact,  carry  private  letters, 
l»ut  these  must  he  enclosed  in  ol^icial  envelo[)es.  whii-h 
can  only  he  procured  at  the  ^'aniens  hy  friends  of  the 
[X'rsons  then;  employe(l.  Amon^'  the  people  I  saw  no 
si<,Mi  of  any  demand  h'r  postal  facilities.  Neither  to 
Chinese  nor  to  natives  was  time  of  much  consequence, 
and  proi)ahly  most  persons  preferred  to  use  their  own 
animals,  or  to  hire  carts,  rather  than  to  employ  fresh 
horses  at  re^'ular  intervals.  The  ofticial  j)ost  exists  oidy 
on  the  roads  from  Kash^Mr  to  Urumtsi  and  from  Kashj^^ar 
to  Varkaiid,  Khotan,  and  some  other  towns  heyond. 
riie  service  is  irre«jular  and  slow.  Thou^di  the  letters 
.ire  carried  on  horsehack  the  time  taken,  as  shown  in 
the  case  of  my  own  letters  sent  hy  otilicial  courtesy, 
exceeds  that  recjuired  hy  a  man  travelling  on  foot.  A 
letter  sent  l)y  the  Chow-Kuan  oi  Khotan  to  Yarkand,  a 
distance  of  s(jme  'I'M)  miles,  was  ten  days  en  route,  though 
oil  tlu'  road  llicrc  were  ei<j;ht  post  stations  where  men 
and  animals  were  supposed  to  he  always  ready.  I  travelled 
witli  a  caravan  over  the  same  road  in  the  same  time, 
riic  >[)((•(!  with  wliicli  letters  are  to  he  canird  In  marketl 
on  the  envelopes.  In  cases  of  ur»jfency  they  arc  marked 
to  he  carried  at  the  rate  of  400  lis  a  day  ;  and  if  llicy  arc 
carried  at  a  slower  rate  the  persons  who  have  caused  the 
delay  are  severely  punished. 

Tcle^'raph  inessa<.,'es  from  I'ekin  (jiroiiounced  i^ejin,  in 
Sm-Chian^f)  to  Kashi^ar  take  from  one  to  three  days  in 
transit.  They  can  he  sent  either  in  the  Chinese  lan<,aia«i[e 
or  in  any  i-iuropcan  lanj,Mia^c  written  in  Koman  cha- 
racters. If  a  message  in  any  other  lani^Mia^^c,  for  cxam[>le. 
that  of  the  natives  of  Sin-Cliian^-  has  to  he  sent,  it  is 
first  translated  into  Chint-sc.  ( )win^f  to  the  impossihility 
of  sij^nallinji;  the  l.OOO  Chinese  characters,  each  of  them  is 


34'^      /.\      ///.7:/     ./.\7^    C///.\1:S/:     /  C /< /<  US  T.\  \. 

(Ic'UohHl  li\  ;i  iiimil)t.'r.  so  iliiit  CliiuL'se  niessa<j;i's  liavc  Id 
be  "  coded  "  at  the  station  ol'  despateh,  and  to  ln'  ■"de- 
coded'" at  the  receiviii^^  station.  All  the  tele}:,'ni]»li 
operators  are  laniiHar  witli  I^ii;^disli,  which  is  us(m1  in 
conjunction  with  Cliinese  on  the  telegra[)h  forms,  hut  the 
system  as  i-egards  Chinese  messages  is  cumi»rous,  and 
there  is  a  })0ssihihty  of  fre(]Uent  mistakes.  Moicovei-,  as 
each  step  in  the  process  has,  of  course,  t(»  he  i)aid  for,  tlie 
cost  of  telegrapliinj^f  is  higli,  the  rate  having  heeii  twice 
raised  during  18US-99.  The  telegrai)h  fcjrnis  at  the  time 
t)f  my  visit  ])ore  the  woids,  "Messages  received  h)r  all 
j)arts  of  thi'  world,"  hut  up  to  March,  1899,  no  inter- 
cliange  of  messages  with  fon-ign  countries  had  heen 
sanctioni'd. 

All  things  considered,  it  is  not  wonde-rful  that  the 
l'ekin-l\asligai'  line  is  rarely  used  excei)t  hy  the  highest 
Chinese  (jt'tieials,  the  liussian  Consulate,  and  the  Ih-itish 
Agency. 


(•ii\rri:i;   \.\i 

Strength  of  ••  Anii.v  " — Militarv  iidiiiiiiistrtition — Artillery — Accident 
to  ■' Artillerv  "'  oflicer — Hussiun  dosi^jiis— The  Kanjut  cliiinis  - 
Russian  counter  claims — Opinion  of  Clnnese  rule — Necessity  for 
care — Possible  danj,'er  from  Afghanistan — Sport — Ox'ix  I'oli  — 
Unrrhel  -Chicore — Antelope      Kviinj^  — Yak. 

^Pllll  iiiilitiirv  f()rc(>  of  Cliina  in  Siii-("liiiin<,'  consists 
'^  iioiiiiiially  of  ;?.()()()  fiiViiliT  and  4, •")()()  iiilantrv  :  hut 
tlu-  actual  strcii^^tli  docs  not  exceed  '.)(>()  cavaliv  and  l.."{")() 
infantry,  the  ditlcnnce  lietwcen  the  nominal  and  tlic 
actual  nund)crs  l)cin^'  due  to  the  corruption  wliicli  prevails 
in  the  niilitaiy,  no  loss  than  m  the  civil  adnnnistration. 
At  the  In'ad  of  the  force  is  the  Ti^'tai,  or  (reneral  Oflicer. 
-^tatioJle(l  at  Kash^far,  and  connnandin^'  as  far  noith  as 
Maralhashi  and  as  far  east  as  Kiria.  I'he  military  unit  is 
railed  a  litiiKi-Un ,  and  the  force  contains  \-l  /{itmj-fsu  of 
cavalry,  each  nonnnally  of  ii.">()  nu'ii,  and  '.)  of  infantry, 
each  of  r)()()  men.  'The  actual  nund)er  in  a  cavalr\  /inin/- 
/.s7/  is  ahout  .so  ;  iti  an  infanliy //(/////-/n//.  ahout  1")().  At 
the  head  of  each  of  these  units  is  a  Li-l)<inn,  his 
suhordinatc  olliccrs  heinLr  ;i  l.i-du-Ii.  :i  Yi/t/ii/l,  and  a 
Won  I/. 

'Vht^.  nominal  pay  of  the  oflici-rs  from  the  Teetai  down- 
wards amounts  to  little  or  nothing,',  and  each  has  to  make 
arran<:;ements  for  iiin  own  livelihood.  The  Teetai  is  en- 
trusted i>\-  tlu'  ( loverinncnt  with   an   anKuint  sullicicnt    to 


J? 


O      /.\      I //!/:T    AXn    r///.\/:.S/:     /  /  A'A /:  .S  /  .  /  .\ 


iiiaiiitiiin  the  fdici'  at  its  iioiiiiiial  stirii^tli  ;  hiiL  liis  lirsi 
duty  l)t'in^'.  (tf  course,  to  attend  to  his  own  iiitiTcsts.  lie 
juits  hair  the  amount  into  his  own  ]i0fkc't  and  (hstiihutcs 
the  remainder  I'oi'  tlie  support  of  the  vai'ious  litni<i-hii. 
h'.ach  unit  is  thus  redured  to  hall'  its  jdoper  strength,  .ind 
a  further  ri'duction  is  el'i'ected  hy  laeli  Li-J)arin  who, 
following,'  the  example  of  his  superior,  retains  for  liis  own 
use  a  larj^e  sliare  of  the  amount  entrusted  to  him.  The 
Taotai  increases  his  emoluments  hy  the  sah'  of  mihtaiy 
a]ii)()intments.  each  lii-l)arin  paying  him  a  lar^'e  sum 
either  at  once  or  hy  annual  instalments.  The  |)ay  of 
the  soldiei's  is  small.  The  cavalry  receive  each  ^)h  sarrs 
per  month,  the  inhmtry  8  sarrs  (i  miskals,  tlie  standard 
bearers  4  sarrs  4  miskals.  each  man  receiving'  also  ahout 
(■)()  pounds  of  flour  and  l-")()  jinj^s  of  wood  per  month. 
Tiie  men  an'  natui'ally  always  short  of  money  and  in 
want  of  o])ium.  4'hc  Li-l)ariii  is  willing  to  lend  money 
at  interest  and  to  sell  opium  on  credit  at  a  nuich  hi^du>r 
price  than  that  current  in  the  bazaar.  At  the  quarterly 
pay-day  th(^  debts  arc  all  cleared  by  the  sim[)l(>  method  of 
de(Uictinjj;  the  amount  from  the  pay  which  is  due. 

Tlie  foot  soldiers  are  armed  with  swords  and  very  old 
muzzle-loadintf  muskets.  In  each  li<iii(/-fsi(  of  infantiy 
there  are  about  fifty  men  provided  only  with  fla^^s  and 
boards,  their  duty  in  time  of  war  bein^'  to  lead  others 
into  action,  and  in  lime  of  jieace  to  escort  su))erior 
officers.  The  cavalry  soldiers  have  to  ])rovide  theii'  own 
liorses,  but  they  are  su})plied  with  torarre.  They  are 
armed  with  swords  and  nuizzle-loadinf,'  muskets  ;  many 
of  them  carry  also  lon^j  wooden  lances,  and  not  a  few 
bear  flag's.  The  cavalry  I  saw  were  well  mounted  on 
small,  strongly-built  cobs,  which  were  {generally  in  t^^ood 
condition  and  appeared  to  be  serviceable  animals.  This 
arm  of  the  service  wotild  doubtless  prove  itself  mobile  in 
favoural)le  circumstances,  l)ut  owing  to  lack  of  transport 


MILITAKY    AnMIMSIKATIOX.  353 

would  be  unable  to  ^'o  fur  I'loin  tin-  roads  and  supplies. 
'\\\v  physical  condition  of  the  men,  both  infantry  and 
cavalry,  is  injured  by  the  habitual  use  of  opium. 

The  soldiers  are  supi)lic(l  annually  with  one  red  and 
white  coat  decorated  with  Chiiu'sc  characters.  This  one 
^Mrmeiit  is  ^iven  free  of  co.^t,  but  for  other  clothinfj,  even 
the  wretched  and  ridiculous  shoes,  a  deduction  is  made 
from  the  pay.  To  clu'ck  desertion,  three  months'  ]iay  is 
retained  every  year  by  the  oilicials  on  the  understandin*,' 
that  the  whole  amount  due  will  he  paid  at  lUanutsi  at 
tlic  end  of  the  period  of  service  in  the  province.  Xoii- 
volunteers  are  supposed  to  serve  about  eleven  years,  and 
volunteers  fifteen  to  twenty  years  in  Sin-Chian^,^ 

.\  few  years  ago  some  drill  instructors  trained  by  foreign 
olticers  at  Tientsin  were  sent  to  the  province  to  improve 
the  discipline,  which  had  (aiul  still  has)  scarcely  any 
existence.  The  Teetai,  however,  was  indignant  at  the 
im))utation  of  ineiliciency,  and  pronqjtly  dismissed  the 
innovating  instructors,  stating  that  the  troops  under 
his  connnand  were  quite  effective  and  not  in  need  of 
their  services. 

Musketry  practice  is  seldom  engaged  in,  never  without 
special  orders  from  the  Taotai.  Kanges  of  about  lifty 
yards  are  within  the  barrack  grounds,  the  targets  having 
a  surface  about  ecpial  to  that  presented  by  a  num's  head. 
I'sually  only  a  small  pioportion  of  the  men  hit  tin-  target; 
but  when  the  piMjinrtion  of  hits  is  very  small  the  mm 
wh(»  miss  are  beaten. 

Parades  and  ins[)ections  \\\v  not  iVe(|Uiiit.  .\t  Kiish^^ar 
the  Teetai  is  presi-nl  at  only  three  in  the  course  of  the 
year.  Before  eai-h  insix-ction  the  numlur  is  raised  to  that 
of  the  estal)lishment,  men  paid  :it  the  rate  of  1  ti>  S  tongas 
being  iiiipi\'ssed  from  the  low  11  or  miirket. 

Nothing  worthy  of  the  name  of  artillery  I'xists  wi  Sin- 
Chiang.     At    Kash^ar  then'    are  a    few   old    and    useless 


554     /V    /7/.7:"/"   .l.y/)    Cf/fXIiSIi    n-RKIiSTAX. 

pieces,  prtil);il)ly  tliitsc  lnou^lit  liy  the  Forsytli  Mission  as 
a  present  from  llic  N'icrroy  ol"  India.  At  an  inspection 
held  within  the  hist  few  years,  the  inspci-tin^^  ot'ticrr 
wished  one  of  the  <,'iins  to  hi'  lired,  but  could  lind  no  one 
who  understood  how  to  wmk  the  ])ieces.  At  len^'th  an 
ottieer,  with  more  ^'allantry  than  skill,  loaded  the  f^nm  ami 
tired:  hut.  when  he  fired,  he  stood  close  behind,  ainnn;,^ 
so  that  he  was  knocked  down  by  the  recoil  and  received 
such  injuries  that  lii'  dii-d  w  ithin  a  lew  days.  Since  that 
exhibition  there  has  been  no  desire  to  see  the  guns  at 
work. 

The  whole  force  is  distributed  among  the  ten  niililary 
districts  into  which  the  province  is  divided,  about  one- 
third  of  the  cavalry  and  more  than  half  the  infantry  lieing 
stationed  at  Yaiigi  Shahr  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Kashgar.  The  men,  however,  of  which  the  ft)rce  consists, 
are  quite  unworthy  of  the  name  of  soldiers.  They  are 
ill-discipliiu'd,  ill-armed,  ill-clothed,  and  of  very  inferior 
physique  ;  but  they  have  many  grievances,  and  it  is  not 
surprising  that  they  are  discontented.  This  force,  which 
cannot  by  any  stretch  of  courtesy  be  called  an  army,  may 
be  sutticient  to  repress  insurrection,  the  purpose  for  which, 
according  to  inscriptions  <jver  the  doors  of  barracks,  it 
exists  ;  but  for  defence  against  invasion  it  is  utterly  use- 
less. The  province  is  absolutely  at  the  mercy  of  Russia, 
and  will  be  unfit  to  offer  any  resistance  when  it  suits  that 
Tower  to  take  it. 

The  methods  by  which  Russia  is  working  towards  that 
end  are,  however,  not  military,  but  diplomatic.  In  18'.)7 
she  applied  to  the  Chinese  for  permission  to  occupy  the 
large  grazing  ground  known  as  Muluksha,  lying  on  the 
north  side  of  the  Karakoram  Pass,  on  the  trade  route 
from  Yarkand  to  Leh.  This  ground  was  professedly  to 
be  used  as  a  place  were  Kussian  caravans  could  rest,  but, 
as   the  region  was    out   of    the   way    of    Russian    trade 


AT.S-.s/./A'    /)/:.s7^A\S.  355 

caniviiiis,  one  must  suppusu  tluit  inilitary  occupalinii  was 
in  view.  Liu  Ta-jin,  the  enerfjetic  Chow-Kuan  ot  Yar- 
kand,  was  charj^ed  to  report  on  the  matter,  and  lie  is 
credited  with  havinj,'  stated  that,  unli'ss  Cliina  intended 
to  ahandon  Sin-Chianf,',  the  request  of  Russia  should  he 
refused. 

Th(!  (juoinni  i)f  the  Kanjut  occupation  of  Raskam  \\ii^> 
used  hy  Uussia  as  thi*  hasis  of  a  prospective  chiim  for 
compensation.  Thr  Kanjuls  had  hecome  suhject  to  the 
Indian  (lovernment,  tliou^di  the  Mir  of  Hunza.  their  head, 
paid  a  small  trihute  to  China,  and  since  they  had  heen 
compelled  to  forsake  their  predatory  hahits  they  had 
^'rown  too  numerous  to  support  themselves  in  the  Hun/.a 
valley  hy  peaceful  means.  They  therefori!  resumed  the 
cultivation  of  the  patches  of  cultivahle  land  in  Kaskam, 
otherwise  unoccupied,  and  ref(arded  hy  them  as  tlirir  own. 
Two  of  their  numher,  employed  in  lookin;^  after  the 
irri^'ation  of  their  fields  in  1S'.)7.  were  arrested  hy  the 
Chinese  on  the  ^nouiul  that  they  were  emissaries  of  the 
Indian  (iovernment  ;  the  Mir  of  llunza  thereupon  made 
a[)plication  din-ctly  to  the  Chinese  for  jiernussion  for  his 
people  to  cultivate  the  Kaskam  soil  which  no  one  else 
desired  ;  hut  Sir  Hidand  Ali  Sha,  Bc^^  of  the  Tajiks  in  the 
nei;,'hbourhood,  also  applied  for  similar  permission  on 
hehalf  of  his  people,  not  hecause  they  wanted  the  land, 
hut  because  they  were  connnanded  to  jjrovide  a  pretext 
for  refusin*,' the  Kanjut  petition.  The  ne^'otiation  on  the 
part  of  China  was  carried  on  hy  the  Taotai  at  Kash^'ar.  a 
weak  and  crin^'in^'  man,  who  was  directly  under  the 
influt'iice  of  tlu-  liussian  Consid-CJeneral.  M.  i'etrovsky 
asserted  that  the  K'anjul  :ip[)lication  was  instif^ati'd  hy 
the  Indian  Government  for  the  purpose  of  ohtainin;^ 
[)ossi'ssion  of  Kaskam,  and  that,  if  it  weri*  fjranted.  Kussia 
would  ilemand  Ta^diarma  to  coiuilerbalance  the  Kritish 
gain.     This  place  is  about  one  march  north  of  Tashkur- 


J3 


6    /.y  TiniiT  Axn  chixuse  rrRKi-.sr.w. 


<,Oi;in,  jind  lies  close  to  the  junction  ul  routes  to  Mur^'luibi, 
Tashkur^'han,  Kaslifjar,  Yangi  Hissar.  and  Yaikand. 
There  is  said  to  he  exci-llent  grazin*;  in  the  vicinity,  and 
Russia  was  crediti'd  with  the  dcsi^Mi  ol'  forming'  a  liazaar 
at  tliat  place  in  order  to  attract  the  trade  from  the  hirge 
towns.  The  Ijazaar.  however,  would  certainly  have  given 
place  to  a  I'ort,  and  the  traders  to  Cossacks.  The  Taotai, 
in  accordance  with  the  usual  Chinese  method,  dehiyed  to 
settle  the  matter  in  either  way  ;  but  in  ]''ebruary,  1H'.)9, 
M.  Petrovsky  precipitated  matters  by  telling  Wong,  the 
official  in  cliarge  of  the  foreign  trade  at  Kashgar,  tliat 
Kussia  intended  to  seize  Taghanna.  This  intimation  was 
telegraphed  to  the  Futai,  wIkj  ordered  troops  to  be  at  once 
despatched  from  Kashgar  to  the  spot.  \\'hen  M. 
Petrovsky  asked  the  Taotai  lor  what  [)ur[)ose  the  troops 
had  been  sent,  he  was  told  that  they  had  no  other  purpose 
in  view  than  to  cultivate  the  soil.  Nothing  seems  to 
have  come  of  these  negotiations,  for  the  rumour  which  I 
heard  in  the  spring  of  18'.)*.),  that  the  Chinese  had  granted 
the  request  of  the  Kanjuts,  was  not  confirmed.  Sooner 
or  later,  however,  the  whole  province  of  Sin-Chiang  will 
fall  under  the  sway  of  Kussia.  The  benevolent  govern- 
ment of  the  Czar  will  some  day  step  in  on  some  j)retext 
t<j  relieve  China  of  an  iniprofitable  possession,  or  to  pro- 
tect the  natives  from  injustice  and  extortion,  or  to  (juell 
an  insurrection  with  which  the  Chinese  tioops  will  be 
pronounced  powerless  to  cope.  Should  this  last  pretext 
be  ad(jpted,  the  Chinese  administration  would  have  itself 
to  thank  ;  for  insurrection  is  about  the  last  course  to 
whicli  tlie  natives  would  of  their  own  accord  resort.  Any 
riots  and  disturbances  which  occur  are  got  up  by  the 
officials  for  the  purpose  of  inflicting  injury  on  foreigners. 
The  population  have  no  fighting  courage,  no  arms,  no 
leaders,  are  totally  incapable  of  combined  action,  and,  so 
far  as  the  government  of  their  cnvn  country  is  concerned, 


./    CAREI-n.    WATCH   XEI-.nEn.  357 

lUiiy  bo  rej^anlt'd  as  ot"  no  account.  Tliey  have  been 
sciuofzed  to  tlie  utmost,  but  would  prefer  to  remain 
under  the  dominion  of  China.  If  tliey  are  ques- 
tioned, tliey  say  "  Tlir  Chiiirse  jjhmdcr  us.  hut  they  do 
not  (h-ive  and  hustle  us,  and  \\v  can  do  as  wi-  please." 
This  opinion  agaves  with  that  of  the  Andijanis,  or  natives 
of  Russian  Turkestan,  who  assert  that  Russian  rule  is 
much  disliked  amon^'  them,  owin^'  to  the  harassing 
administration  to  which  they  are  subjected.  The  natives 
of  Sin-Chiang  are  opposed  to  all  change,  whetlier  for  the 
better  or  the  worse  ;  but  if  Russia  were  to  achninister 
their  country  with  honesty  and  justice,  leaving  perfect 
freedom  in  religious  matters,  there  can  be  no  doubt  that 
the  majority  would  eventually  recognise  great  improve- 
ment in  their  conditiun.  .\  Russian  occupation  cf  the 
province  need  not.  .s'^  /'//■  <<•<  commerce  is  concerned, 
appreciably  atVect  the  interests  of  Great  Britain.  The 
trade  with  India  is  small  and  is  decreasing  ;  fi'W  British 
travellers  visit  the  region,  and  if  to  traders  and  travellers 
fair  treatment  were  assured,  the  change  of  government 
would  prr)hably  he  advantageous  to  both.  No  sane  man 
accpiainted  with  Sin-Chiang  would  advise  the  Govermuent 
of  India  to  saddle  itself  with  its  administration. 

Nevertheless,  it  is  neeessaiT  I'oi"  the  British-Indian 
Govei'iinient  to  keep  a  cart'ful  watch  on  the  movements 
of  Ivussia  in  Ceiitial  Asia.  especiall\  in  Tibet.  In  that 
pait  of  the  worM  Russia  cares  less,  in  the  \\r^l  insiunce, 
for  the  development  of  her  trade  than  the  enlargement  of 
her  boundaries.  Her  settli'd  ])urpose  of  territorial  exten- 
sion advances  steadily,  tliough  without  haste,  and  it  sei'ms 
to  be  her  destiny  to  absorb  and  reorganise  for  her  own 
purposes  the  semi-barbarous  nations  on  her  frontiers.  If 
her  designs  looked  no  further,  there  would  be  no  cause  for 
disquietude,  hut  every  southward  ailvaiu'e  of  Russia  brings 
he-r  nearer  to   India,  and   Russian  olVu'i'rs  and  writers  do 


35'^     /■^'    TiniiT   AXn    CIIIXI-.SF.    rrRKESTAX. 

not  conceal  tlint  Ium-  nltini;Uc  aim  is  ihc  possession  of 
that  empire.  While  she  is  stren<,^th(>nin<i:  her  hold  over 
lU'W  lands  aiid  reaching'  forth  to  seize  others,  she  is 
unostentatiously  improving;  her  connnunications  and 
intri^niin^^  for  political  advantap^es  wherever  intrigue  is 
possible.  A  fresh  illustration  of  this  method  was  pro- 
vided in  a  telegram  which  appeared  in  the  Times  of 
October  1."),  1900,  stating  that  an  Envoy  Extraordinary 
of  the  Dalai  Lama  of  Lhasa  had  been  received  in 
audience  on  October  l.'Uh  by  the  Czar  at  St.  Peters- 
bur^^ 

It  is  not  to  be  supposed  that  a  laroe  body  of  troops 
fiMiii  the  norlh  eould  ever  penetrate  far  to  the  south  of 
the  Hindu  J\ush,  but,  when  the  Russian  and  Indian 
frontiers  are  identical,  there  will  l)e  little  or  nothing  to 
prevent  the  despatch  of  small  columns  to  the  south.  In 
connection  witli  this  question  the  unsatisfactory  political 
position  of  Afghanistan  should  not  be  overlooked.  There 
duplicity  and  treachery  flourish,  and  Russian  roubles  may 
exert  an  important  influence  on  tlie  tide  of  public  and 
private  feeling.  The  Afghan  army  having  been  improved, 
armed  with  modern  rifles,  and  even  supplied  with  about 
HOI)  Maxims,  and  lield-guns,  manufactured  on  a  large  scale 
in  the  country,  attention  is  now  directed  to  the  organising 
of  an  efficient  transport  service.  There  can  be  no  doubt 
that  in  the  recent  frontier  war  in  Tirah  not  only  had  the 
tribes  been  aided  and  abetted,  but  many  of  them  had 
been  armed  against  us  by  the  Amir  of  Afghanistan.  The 
allegiance  of  this  potentate  could  scarcely  be  counted  on 
if  his  assistance  were  required,  and  it  is  clearly  the 
duty  of  the  Indian  Government  to  maintain  its  own  mili- 
tary forces  in  'such  strength  and  thoroughly  up-to-date 
efficiency  that  they  may  be  ready  for  any  emergency. 

Of  the  different  kinds  of  game  which  I  met  in  Sin- 
Chiang,  the  ovis  Poll  is  undoubtedly  the  most  worthy  of 


S/'OA''/\  359 

th.o  attention  of  .spt)i-tsni(.'n.  It  was  only  on  the  Taf^di- 
dunibash  Pamir  that  I  round  this  animal,  and  there, 
owinff  to  the  constant  shooting  of  it  hy  Kiiglii/.  and 
Tajiks,  as  well  as  hy  Bfitish  sportsmen,  it  lias  become 
more  rare  than  it  used  to  be.  The  specimens  most  in 
request  are  old  rams,  the  fine  heads  of  wliicli  find  a  ready 
sale  in  Tashkurghan,  Yarkand,  and  other  places  ;  l)ut, 
nnfortunately,  tlie  natives  shoot  any  animal,  male  or 
female,   that  comes  in  their  way. 

My  first  attemi)t  to  stalk  this  sheep  was  made  in  the 
end  of  October,  1S97,  in  the  nullah  known  as  Kukteruk, 
in  the  western  part  of  the  Chinese  Pamir.  I  was  accom- 
panied by  a  shikari,  my  orderly,  and  the  cook,  and  we 
pitched  our  camp,  consisting  of  two  tents,  near  the  spot 
where  the  nullah  bifurcated,  some  miles  from  its  mouth. 
The  place  was  partially  sheltered  ;  numerous  skulls  of  the 
ovis  Poll  were  lying  about ;  yak  dung  for  fuel  was 
abundant ;  and  \ny  shikari  considered  this  spot  to  be 
as  near  to  the  ground  frequented  by  the  sheep  as  it 
was  advisable  to  camp.  As  soon  as  the  tents  were 
pitched  all  hands  began  to  collect  dung,  and  early  in 
the  afternoon,  when  we  had  to  discontinue  the  work 
owing  to  falling  snow,  we  had  a  good  supply.  Several 
sheep  came  in  sight  at  no  great  distance,  but  all  of  them 
had  small  lieads,  and  I  passed  the  evening  in  ni\  tt'nt, 
sitting  on  the  ground  in  fnmt  of  inylmt  stovi\  reading  tlu' 
latest  I'iUglish  newspapers  and  telegiams  which  Captain 
MacMah(m.  C.S.T.,  CM.K..  the  Political  Agent  at  (nlgit, 
had  sent  nie.  In  the  morning  it  was  necessary  to  start 
long  before  daylight  in  order  to  reach  l)y  dawn  the  places 
where  game  was  most  likely  to  be  found.  We  tm-ned  out 
about  H  o'clock,  when  the  temperature  was  at  (l"  l'\ 
oi-  twenty-six  degrees  i)(Iow  the  fi-cc/.inL:  poi)it  :  hut  warm 
clothing,  a  thick  fui-  coat  and  cap.  and  long  warm  hoots 
kept  me  comfortal)li'.      In  tin   ilarl^ness  it  was  impossible 


36o    /.\'  riiu-.r  Axn  ciuxese  rrRKr.sr.w. 

to  walk  \\itlii);it  coiiiiinmlly  stiiiiihliii^^  ovci'  rocks  aiwi 
stont's.  but  1  ^(jt  over  the  {^froimd  safely,  seated  on  tlie 
back  of  a  slo\v-t(oiii^'  yak  whirli  did  not  stumble  onee. 
I  saw  many  sheep,  but  those  whii-h  were  within  ninf^e 
were  females  or  youn^;  males,  the  old  animals  bein^,'  too 
wary  to  let  me  approach  within  several  hundred  yards. 
The  events  which  happened  were  similar  evei-y  iiKniiin^. 
Small-headed  sheep  were  accessible,  but  tlie  two  j^ood 
iieads  I  wished  to  possess  kept  invariably  beyond  my 
reach.  Their  owners  took  up  a  position  on  hi^di  f^round, 
whence  they  could  see  all  alon^^  the  valleys  ;  and,  as  there 
was  no  cover  of  any  sort,  every  attempt  I  made  to  stalk 
them  failed. 

Leavin^ij  this  valley  I  rejoincMl  C'obbdid,  who,  I  lnund. 
had  met  with  better  success  than  had  fallen  to  luy  lot. 
Seeinff  that  he  had  shot  three  sheep  v.ith  heads  measur- 
ing]^ respectively  5(j,  59^,  and  iVl  inches,  I  resolved  to  make 
another  el'foi-t  as  soon  as  my  woik  permitted.  Starting  in 
the  dark  and  wending-  my  way  on  the  back  of  a  steady- 
pacin<.;-  yak  up  a  valley  till  daylight,  I  came  suddenly  on 
two  sheep  with  vei-y  fair  heads,  grazing  in  a  small  side 
valley.  Dismoimting,  1  laid  aside  my  fur  coat,  exchanged 
my  long  boots  for  a  rubl)er-soled,  canvas  pair,  and  made  a 
long  and  careful  round  so  that  I  got  quite  near  the 
animals.  The  altitude  of  the  region  was  about  15,000 
feet,  and  I  was  out  of  breath  with  my  exertions,  when, 
peering  (^ver  tlu^  rock,  I  was  seen  l)y  one  of  the  sheep. 
J>efi>i-r  I  bad  time  to  take  off  my  thick  woollen  gloves  so 
as  to  be  able  to  handle  my  rifle,  both  the  animals 
scampered  away,  aiul  I  had  to  return  to  camp  empty- 
handed. 

Atiother  day  rol)l)old  mid  T,  after  a  short  stalk  in  the 
main  valley,  got  within  V'A)  yards  of  seven  males  as  they 
trotted  past.  We  both  fired  and  three  sheep  fell,  purpling 
the  snow  with  their  l)lf)od,  but  unfortunately  tlieir  heads 


0J7S    rOLI.  zC^\ 

were  not  lar^'r.  those  wh'cli  I  hroii^Iit  dowii  intasuiin^f 
4()  and  -47  iiiclios  rospectivoly.  In  skinnin^^  and  <iitting 
up  the  carcasses  we  avoided  frost-biti!  1)\  litMiiiently 
wanning  our  hands  on  the  flesh. 

In  the  following  year  better  hick  attended  my  efforts, 
and  I  shot  another  sheep,  whose  horns  measured  59| 
inches  in  length,  Ki  inches  in  circumference,  and  4(5 
inches  from  tip  to  lip. 

In  the  Taghdunibash  Painii-  1  iicvcm-  saw  or  heard  of 
any  big  game  other  than  tlie  or/.s  Voli ;  but,  on  the  grassy 
slopes,  between  the  Kukalung  Pass  and  Zad,  I  saw  a 
large  herd  of  bun-hel,  one  animal  having  a  particularly 
fine  head.  1  was  unable  t(^  get  within  range  as,  between 
them  and  me,  there  was  a  valley  with  very  precipitous 
sides,  but,  being  tempted  by  the  fine  head  belonging  to 
an  old  mal(>  which  stood  on  a  commanding  eminence  and 
watched  his  flock  mounting  the  steep  and  rocky  bank,  I 
fired  several  shots.  The  distance,  however,  was  too  great, 
and  he  scampered  off,  apparently  with  a  whole  skin.  A 
few  days  later  I  had  better  luck,  for  1  shot  a  fair-sized 
i)urihel  with  horns  measui'ing  •24^[  inches  along  the  curve, 
1()[  inches  circumference,  and  IS]  inches  between  the 
tips. 

If  the  Tajiks  are  to  be  believed,  a  few  sliee[)  (or/.s  Voli) 
with  small  heads  frequent  the  upper  part  of  the  Uchi  or 
Wacha  valley  on  the  west  side.  On  both  sides  of  the 
Varkand  Hiver,  between  C'amji  \'-\~  and  the  mouth  of  the 
Danga  P.ash  or  Tashkurghan  Iviver,  I  several  times  saw 
(locks  of  ibex.  The  speciinm  I  shot  near  Til'  IkhI,  like 
the  others  I  saw  in  Sin-C"hiang,  a  small  head,  but  the 
carcass  provided  a  large  supply  of  meat  greatly  appreciated 
li\  the  natives,  who  esteem  this  llesh  a  luxury.  The 
pursuit  of  the  ibex  in  the  valley  of  the  Varkand  Kiver 
need  only  be  undertaken  by  those  who  have  both  energv 
and   patience  abundantly   at  connnand.  and    who  ari'  at 


362     IN    TIBET  AXD   CHINES II    TTRKESTAN. 

home  on  the  steep  and  lofty  ridges  which  arc  the  hauiii- 
of  this  animal.  Even  such  sportsmen  will  iHohahly  meet 
with  dithculty  and  danger  out  of  all  proportion  to  the 
game  they  will  secure. 

In  nearly  all  the  smaller  valleys  there  are  many  chicore  ; 
possihly  in  Kaskam  there  may  be  a  few,  hut  in  the  deso- 
late valley  of  the  Yarkand  River  north  of  that  tract  we 
saw  not  one.     Tlu^  larger  variety,  called  ram  chicore,  we 


SKINNIM,    A    YAK  S    IlKAD 


h)und  only  on  ground  over  al)out  14,000  feet  in  altitude. 
This  bird  is  exceedingly  wary  ;  his  sense  of  hearing  is 
very  acute,  and  when  he  detects  the  presence  of  an 
intruder  he  flies  away  with  a  loud  cry,  in  groups  like 
small  coveys  of  partridges,  across  the  valle3^s  to  alight  on 
ground  where  he  can  scarcely  be  discerned.  We  could 
occasionally  hear  the  birds  as  they  retired,  but  very 
seldom  were  al)le  to  shoot  them.     Their  flesh  is  white, 


] '.  /  A'.  363 

rcsoinMiii",'  the  Hcsli  ol'  ii  lar^^c  c"i[)()ii  iiiori'  lliaii  lliat  of 
any  ^Miiic  l)ir(l  I  liavc  ever  seen  in  the  Himalayas. 

On  the  plains  of  Sin-Cliian^f,  now  and  then  a  gazelle 
may  be  found,  and  in  winter  a  few  wild  duck,  hut,  on  the 
whole,  i)oth  Lrround  and  winged  game  are  i-t-markahlv 
rarce. 

In  \\'(>stern  Tihet,  on  the  f)ther  hand,  it  is  iniusual  to 
travel  for  a  day  without  seeing  antelope  and  kyang  (a 
sort  of  wild  donkey).  The  former  of  these  animals  is 
a  valuahle  friend  to  travellers,  and  is  seldom  found  at 
elevations  under  l."),()()0  feet.  He  is  in  many  places 
n-markahly  tame,  remaining  close  to  the  caravan  and 
watching  it  with  evident  curiosity.  The  flesh  is  almost 
destitute  of  fat,  even  when  the  animal  is  well  nourished. 
The  antelopes  shot  by  Pike  and  me  in  ls*)6  were  all  in 
good  condition,  but  those  I  found  in  1SU9  were  thin, 
]>robably  because  of  an  unusually  severe  winter. 

Tn  a  few  places  on  lofty  ground  in  Tibet  we  found  yak 
in  herds  numbering  from  ten  to  thirty,  and  sometimes 
more.  Most  of  the  animals  were  black,  brown  speci- 
mens being  very  rare.  These  nn'ing  herds  move  with 
great  agility  over  the  steep  and  stony  ground,  apparently 
enjoying  the  snow  and  frost  and  wind  which  seldom  fail. 
.\t  about  the  distance  of  two  marches  east  of  C'harol  ("ho 
1  observed  a  veiT  large  herd  I'esting  on  lh(>  t(^p  of  a  high 
I'idge  covered  with  snow.  wli<  ic  it  was  evident  that  a 
strong  cold  wind  was  blowing.  They  sought  no  sheltei", 
not  even  that  which  they  could  easily  have  found  on 
the  lee  side  of  the  I'idge.  Yaks  are  cajKible  of  ofTering 
formidable  resistance  to  the  sportsman,  as  I'ike  found  in 
an  adventure  which  has  already  been  r(>corded.  One  dav 
1  stalked  a  solitary  bull  yak.  and.  afti-r  a  long  round,  got 
w  itliin  range.  Some  bullets  from  my  ''MVA  carbine  brought 
liim  to  the  ground,  and  1  stepped  towards  the  animal 
thinking  he  was  as  good  as  diNul.      It  was  luckv  that   1 


;.r.4    /x  77/>/rr  .ixn  nffxr.s/i  tcrkrstax. 

slipped  a  few  cartriclf,'es  into  the  carbine  magazine  and 
one  into  the  cliainber,  for.  when  [  was  surveying  the 
animal  only  a  few  yards  from  its  head,  lie  suddenly  rose 
and,  with  an  angry  look  and  IowihxmI  head,  seemed  about 
to  charge.  A  bullet  from  my  carbine  entered  his  brain 
and  lie  fell  for  the  last  time.  The  horns  w^ere  very  short, 
measuring  only  25^  inches  in  length,  18  inches  in  circum- 
ference and  17  inches  from  tip  to  tip,  though  the  animal 
was  the  most  bulky  our  men  had  seen. 

In  Western  Tibet  there  are  a  few  gazelle  ;  hares  are  not 
uncommon,  and  ducks  and  geese  are  frequent  visitors  at 
certain  places. 


APPENDIX    I 


GEOGRAPHICAL 

I'lililiiihi-il  irHli  till-  hiiiil  jirnidanoii  of  Lieut. -Colonel  St.  (1.  C.  Gore, 
li.E.,  Sitrrci/or-driicral  <>/  India.] 


Mi;.M(»KAXl)UM   ON    THE   (DMriLATIOX    OF   CAPTAIN 
DEASVS    .MA1\  1800  {Uccificd). 

Ldtitiidoi. 
The  Observed  Latitudes  have  been  accepted  and  used  throughout. 

Longituden. 

Camp  1.  Lat.  34=  28'  23 ',  long.  79' 34' 28  ".  The  lonj,'itudc  was 
computed  in  terms  of  Peak  E.  31  (identical  with  G.  T.  Tartary  No.  1 
Peak,  i-idf  Synoptical  Volume  VII.).  and  from  it  the  longitudes  of 
S.  P.  9  and  S.  P.  6  were  computed  by  means  of  Captain  Deasy's 
traverse  to  the  Lanak  La. 

Camp.  3.  Lat.  34"  27'  3".  long.  79'  58  25.  The  longitude  was 
first  comi)uted  in  terms  of  S.  P.  11,  12,  and  18,  which  were  believed 
ti)  be  identical  with  the  ti.  T.  points  Mangt/.a  Lalvc  Nos.  3,  2,  and  1, 
l)Ut  the  tln-ee  resulting  values  were  79'  56'  1",  79  57'  27 "  and 
79"  58'  47  '.  Tlie  longitude  of  S.  P.  9  was  now  worked  out  through 
the  triangle  to  S.  P.  9.  using  each  of  these  values.  Tliat  deduced, 
using  the  value  from  S.  P.  IH.  agreed  within  0  witli  tlie  value  of 
S.  P.  9  brought  up  from  Camp  1,  lluough  traverse  and  Iriangulation. 
The  value  of  8.  P.  (>  similarly  worked  agreed  fairly  well.  This  was 
taken  to  i)rove  the  idejitity  of  S.  P.  IH  with  CJ.  T.  Peak  Mangt/.a  Lake 
N<i.  1,  and  the  corresponding  viUue  of  Camp  3  was  accepted. 

All  the  Ci.  T.  points  here  referred  to  have  been  lixed  by  oidy  two 
rays,  so  then-  (1  T.  values  caimot  be  considered  absolutely  leliable. 

Camp  11.  Lat.  34"  35'  17  ,  long.  81  9  22  '.  The  longitude  of  this 
camp  was  computed  through  8.  P.  6,  which  is  fixed  by  triangles  from 

3'>5 


366  APrnXPfX 

both  Camp  o  and  Camp  11.  Tlir  peak  is  a  prominent  one,  and 
Captain  Deasy  says  there  can  be  no  doubt  abont  its  identification. 
The  peak  is,  howe\er,  only  fixed  by  a  single  triangle,  so  the  value  is 
unchecked.  8.  P.  14  was  also  tried,  but  proved  to  be  doubtful,  witli 
a  difference  of  2'  10"  in  latitude  and  1'  33"  in  longitude. 

As  there  was  no  trigonometrical  connection  between  Cam[)  11  and 
any  of  the  subsequent  camps,  a  fresh  commencement  was  made  at 
the  closing  end  of  Captain  Deasy's  work. 

Camp  74.  Lat.  34°  3'  43",  long.  79  43'  1".  The  longitude  was 
computed  from  Peak  E.  32,  which  is  the  same  as  G.  T.  Tartary 
No.  2  Peak. 

Then  from  Camp  74  the  \alue  was  carried  tlirougii  Peak  2,j6  to 
Camp  67 ;  but  when  the  latitude  of  Camp  67  thus  brought  up  was 
compared  with  its  observed  latitude,  a  difference  of  1'  38"  was  found ; 
so  Peak  256  was  rejected,  and  Camp  74  stands  by  itself,  there  being 
no  connection  with  any  other  camp. 

Camp  63.  Lat.  33  59'  40",  long.  80'  51'  25".  The  longitude  of 
this  camp  was  computed  by  means  of  an  azimuth  taken  to  S.  P.  6 
from  tlie  camp  which  lay  well  to  the  south  of  the  peak,  and  by  the 
difference  of  latitude  of  the  peak  and  the  camp. 

Camp  67.  Lat.  33  54'  53",  long.  80"^  33'  16"  The  longitude  was 
computed  from  Camp  63  by  azimuths  and  difference  of  latitudes 
through  Peaks  220.  232,  and  28,  as  below  :  — 

Pk.  220  single  ray  from  ('.  67,  triangle  from  C.  63 
„   232  S  C.  63  „  C.  67 

„      28  „  C.  63  „  C.  67 

The  longitudes  through  above  peaks  agreed  within  30",  so  their  mean 
was  accepted. 

Camp  61.  Lat.  33  53'  37  ",  long.  81  11  23".  The  longitude  was 
computed  tli rough  Peaks  212  and  193  : — 

Pk.  212  triangles  from  C.  63  and  C.  61 
,.    193  ,,  C.  63  and  single  ray  from  C.  61 

Tlie  two  values  differed  by  5"  ;  the  mean  was  adopted. 

Camp  57.  Lat.  33  47'  35".  long.  81°  36'  8".  The  longitude  was 
computed  througli  Peaks  195  and  193 : — 

Pk.  193  triangles  from  C.  63  and  C.  57 
,,    195  single  ray  from  C.  61  and  triangle  from  C.  57 
The  two  values  differed  by  2"  ;  the  mean  was  adopted. 

Camp  51.  Lat.  33  16'  31  ",  long.  82  1'  4".  The  longitude  was 
computed  through  Peaks  142,  162.  169,  and  170 : — 

Pk.  142  single  ray  fi-om  C.  57  and  triangle  from  C.  51 
„    162   triangle   from    C.  57  „  C.  51 

,,    169  single  ray  from  C.  57  ,,  C.  51 

„    170  „  C.  57  „  C.  51 


A  pp/ixnix  367 

The  values  fioiii  I'eaks  ItiU  anil  170  heiiij,'  discordant,  were  rejected  ; 
the  mean  of  the  other  two  vakies,  whieli  aj,'reed  witli  tlie  chroiioiueter 
value,  was  adopted. 

Camp  49.  Lat.  83  :$  41  ',  long.  82"  7'  ;J7  '.  .\n  attempt  was  made 
to  deduce  the  longitude  of  tliis  camp  from  Teaks  i;JO,  142,  14;J.  144, 
145,  and  137 ;  the  results  were  discordant,  so  the  difference  of  longi- 
tude between  Camps  51  and  49  was  computed  by  chronometers  A  and 
U.  These  gave  aL  -f  5'  30"  and  +  6'  45"  respectively.  The  mean  of 
these  gave  a  longitude  for  Camp  49  closely  agreeing  with  tlie  mean 
value  derived  from  Peaks  142.  143,  144,  and  145.  whicli  latter  value 
was  therefore  adopted. 

Camp.  43.  I-at.  32  32'  32  ,  long.  82  30'  38".  The  longitude  was 
computed  by  direct  triangles  through  Peaks 

136  from  C.  49,  resulting  long.  82   30'  40" 

137  ..  C.  49  .,  82'  30'  36" 
129  „  C.  51  ,,  82  37'  17" 
131     „     C.  51              .,  82   34'  14" 

Tiie  two  latter  were  rejected  and  the  mean  of  the  first  two  adopted. 

The  triangulation  could  not  be  carried  further  back  eastwards,  so 
the  value  was  carried  northwards  across  from  Camp  57  to  Camp  22. 

Camp  22.  Lat.  34  43'  10",  long.  82  15'  25".  The  longitude  of 
Camp  22  has  been  deduced  from  C.  57  through  Peak  70,  which  was 
fixed  by  a  double  triangle  from  C.  57  and  by  a  single  one  from  C.  22. 
The  values  of  the  connuon  side  from  C.  57  differing  by  1,140  feet,  two 
deductions  of  latitude  and  longitude  of  C.  22  were  therefore  computed 
with  the  two  Aalues  of  the  connuon  side  ;  and  as  the  resulting  latitude 
of  C.  22  from  one  of  the  triangles  agreed  closely  with  the  observed 
latitude  of  that  camp,  the  corresponding  longitude  value  was  accepted 
and  the  second  triangle  rejected. 

Camp  27.  Lat.  34  9'  1",  long.  82  18'  6'.  The  only  cojmection 
between  C.  27  and  C.  22  was  a  single  ray  from  C.  27  to  Peak  75,  fixed 
from  C.  22.  The  longitude  deduced  by  chronometers  A  and  B  agreed 
with  that  through  Peak  75  withi4i  57" ;  the  value  through  [leak  was 
therefore  adopted. 

Camp  28.  Lat.  34  2'  34".  long.  82  20'  12".  The  longitude  was 
computed  through  Peaks  09,  87(f,  88,  fixed  from  C.  27. 

Long,  of  C.  28  through  Pk.  09  =  82    19'  58" 
C.  28  ,,  87<j  =  82   20'  13" 

C.  28  ..  88  =  82   20'  11" 

As  the  observation  from  (.".  27  to  Peak  09  was  marked  doul)tful.  and 
as  the  latitude  deduced  through  that  [)eak  differed  from  the  observed 
latitude  of  C.  28,  the  lirst  \alue  was  rejected  and  a  mean  of  the  two 
latter  accepted. 

Camp  2J.     Lat.  33    54'   13,  long.  H2   20'   40"'     The  longitude  was 


368  AJ'PHxnrx 

computed  through  Teak  H7<f.  whicli  was  fixed  from  Camp  27  ;  the 
computed  latitude  of  C.  29  agreed  with  the  observed  hititude  to  1". 

Camp  ;:51.  I.at.  ;:53  4;V  14",  long.  82  39'  10".  The  longitude  of  tlie 
camp  was  computed  tlnough  Peaks  92.  94.  95,  96.  97,  and  98.  Four 
of  these  gave  discordant  results,  and  the  mean  of  the  values  obtained 
through  Peaks  94  and  95  was  accepted,  the  latitude  so  obtained 
agreeing  well  with  the  observed  latitude  of  C.  31.  the  longitude  by 
chronometers  A,  B  and  C  differing  by  28"  only. 

Camp  32.  Lat.  33  39'  0",  long.  82  45'  57".  None  of  the  triangles 
connecting  C.  32  with  other  camps  ha\ing  proved  reliable,  the  differ- 
ence of  longitude  between  Camps  28  and  32  has  been  determined  from 
chronometer  B.  a  rate  having  been  obtained  by  observations  on  9th 
and  20th  August  at  Camp  32. 

The  rates  shown  by  chronometers  A  and  C  were  not  very  satisfac- 
tory, so  they  were  not  used. 

Camp  34.  Lat.  33  26'  42".  long.  82  52'  19".  The  longitude  was 
determined  by  differences  of  latitude  and  azimuth  from  C.  34  to 
Peak  112  and  Hill  Station  E,  both  fixed  from  C.  32,  the  resulting 
longitudes  differing  by  1'  31"  ;  their  mean  was  taken. 

An  attempt  was  made  to  utilise  a  ray  to  Peak  105,  but  as  the  ray 
was  not  w-ell  placed  and  gave  discrejiant  results,  it  was  rejected. 

The  camps  beyond  C.  34  not  having  been  connected  by  triangula- 
tion.  a  few  of  the  principal  ones  between  C.  34  and  C.  43  already 
fixed  along  the  southern  line  were  determined  by  chronometer  from 
Camp  34. 

To  do  this  the  rates  oljtained  from  a  comparison  of  the  chronometer 
with  the  trigonometrical  differences  of  longitude  of  Camps  3  and  11 
were  used. 

Camps  37  and  41  were  selected  for  determination,  and  Camp  43 
was  also  determined  in  chronometric  terms  of  Camp  34,  in  order  to 
see  how  it  agreed  w'ith  its  previously  determined  trigonometrical  value 
along  the  soutliern  line. 

The  difference  found  in  the  position  of  C.  43  as  thus  determined  was 
distributed  proportionately  back  along  the  line  ^\■ith  the  following 
resulting  positions  for  the  two  camps : — 

Camp  37.     Lat.  33   0'  0",  long.  82   53'  19" 
Camp  41.     Lat.  32   34'  45",  long.  82   45'  49" 

Camp  8.  Lat.  34  39'  8",  long.  80  49'  27".  Its  longitude  was 
determined  by  azimuths  and  differences  of  latitude  through  rays  from 
Camp  8  to  Peaks  13  and  14,  both  fixed  from  C.  3 ;  the  resulting 
longitudes  differed  by  34",  and  tlie  mean  was  taken. 

Camp  5.  Lat.  34  33'  16",  long.  80  16'  0".  Its  longitude  was  deter- 
mined by  azimuths  and  differences  of  latitude  to  Peaks  11  and  12,  both 
fixed  from  Camp  3,  the  results  differing  by  3"  ;  their  mean  was  taken. 


A/'/'nxn/x  369 

Camp  15.  Lat.  34  'uV  al".  long.  Si  41'  lU  ".  This  caini)  is 
identical  with  Camp  109  of  1897-98-99.  Tiie  hititiule  iind  longitude 
are  taken  from  that  camp. 

Camp  19.  Lat.  34  oO' 34",  long.  82  19'  10".  The  loiigitiule  was 
determined  by  chronometer  B. 

NoTK. — All  longitudes  in  this  list  are  in  final  G.  T.  terms,  and  require  a 
correction  of  —2'  i<0"  to  briiiL'  them  to  Greenwich  terms. 


In  order  to  expedite  the  mapping  and  save  tlie  constant  corrections 
to  the  plane-table  sheets  through  having  to  adjust  tlie  positions  of  all 
the  camps,  tlie  above  only  were  plotted,  and  tlie  positions  of  tlie 
intermediate  camps  were  taken  from  the  plane-table  sheets,  after 
fitting  the  detail  on  to  the  positions  of  tlie  plotted  camps. 

Trigonometrical  peaks  were  worked  out  as  far  as  possible  from  the 
various  camps.  As  they  were  almost  all  fixed  b^'  single  triangles, 
without  check,  they  were  only  accepted  when  they  agreed  fairly  well 
\\ith  their  positions  as  shown  on  the  plane-table  sheets. 

Dkhra  Dun.  J.  ECCLES.  M..\. 


COMPUTATION   OF   CAPTAIN    DEASY'S   HEIGHTS,  1896. 

As  the  G.  T.  peaks  on  which  Captain  Deasy's  longitudes  have  been 
based  have  not  had  their  heights  determined,  it  was  necessary  to 
obtain  a  fundamental  height  baroiiu'liically.  (ni  wliich  to  base  the 
height  computations. 

Captain  Deasy  while  at  Eeli  read  his  mercurial  barometer  at  Eeh 
station,  the  height  of  which  is  known.  He  did  not,  however,  com- 
pare his  barometer  with  that  used  at  the  Meteorological  Observatory 
there,  the  records  of  which  for  10  a.m.  and  4  p.m.  daily  are  available. 
He  states,  however,  that  the  situation  of  the  meteorological  instru- 
ment was  within  some  1")  or  20  feet  in  height  of  Leh  station,  where 
he  i-ead  his  barometer.  I  have  therefore  assumed  the  two  points  to 
1)6  itlentical.  The  reading  of  Captain  Deasy's  barometer  in  May  was 
somewhat  higher  than  that  of  the  meteorological  instrument,  but  on 
his  return  journey  the  readings  were  almost  identical. 

I  have  worked  out  Captain  Deasy's  heights  differentially  with  I. oh, 
using  his  readings  and  those  recorded  at  Leh. 

The  Leh  records  are  made  at  10  a.m.  and  4  p.m.,  while  Captain 
Deasy,  on  account  of  the  exigencies  of  marching,  observed  at  7  a.ni 
and  9  p.m. 


370  A/'ri-xnf.y 

No  lidUilv  record  wiis  Uopt  fmui  wliirli  tlio  liourly  vuriutinn  rould 
bi'  iiscertained.  so  an  assuiued  hourly  correction  was  at  lirst  ap|)li<  d. 
As  this  Miade  tlie  resulta  generally  more  discordant,  and  as  clearly  llic 
changing  weather  was  the  greatest  element  in  the  irregularities,  I 
tinally  compared  the  moan  of  the  readings  at  eacli  place  with  tlic 
similar  mean  iit  I,eh. 

To  determine  the  fundamental  heiglit  the  procedure  has  been  as 
follows :  — 

(1)  The  heights  of  all  base  camps  were  ((imputed  barometrically, 
dilVerentially  from  Leh. 

t2)  With  the  barometrical  value  of  Camp  3  as  an  initial  value,  tlie 
heights  of  Camps  68,  67,  61,  f*?,  r)H.  and  T)!  were  computed  through  the 
triangulation.  The  heights  thus  determined  in  terms  of  Cam))  M  were 
compared  with  the  barometric  heights  of  these  camps,  and  the  latter 
^\ere  found  lower  than  the  f(^irincr  by  vai'ious  amounts,  the  average  of 
whicli  was  60  feet.  This  amount  was  therefore  applied  as  a  correction 
to  the  trigonometrical  heiglits.  In  other  words,  the  fundamental 
height  is  obtained  l)y  taking  the  mean  barometric  height  of  seven 
stations,  the  dift'erences  of  height  of  which  had  been  obtained 
trigonomctrically. 

The  heights  were  then  extended  as  far  as  possible  trignometricallx . 
the  co-eflicient  of  refraction  being  taken  as  'OB. 

Such  camps  as  were  not  connected  by  triangulation  have  had  tlii-ir 
heights  determined  direct  from  the  barometer  observations. 

The  barometric  observations  when  computed  gave  as  a  rule  the 
usual  discrepancies  inter  sc  of  from  30  to  60  feet. 

Dkhra  DC'n,     )  (Sd.)     St.  O.  C.  (iOKi:.  I. ikit. -Colonel.  R.E., 
U)lli  Srj)l..  IHOT.)  Siijurinlciithnl.  Trl/foiinnirlricdl  Siirrri/. 


MEMORANDU^r    ON    THE    (OMriEATION    OF 
CAPTAIN    DEASVS    MAP,    1897-98-99. 

Laliti((l('s. 
The  observed  latitudes  have  been  accepted  and  used  throughout. 

Ldiif/i  hull's. 

Cam|)s  4.  ')  and  6.  A. U.S.  is  a  point  common  to  Camps  4,  5  and  6. 
The  longitude  of  this  point  iias  been  determined  from  Pamir  jieaks 
Nos.  ;i  and  '>,  through  the  above  camps.  The  values  are  7.'5"  Br>'  7", 
7."»^  ;j">  8  ',  and  7'»  :!."/  3  '.  Tlie  latitude  comparison  of  this  point  is 
also  satisfactorv. 


.//V7:.\7V.\'  371 

The  ineun  of  the  tliriT  vuliu  s,  viz.,  7.">    H'>   »>  ,  has  been  lulopted  us 

tlie  lonf,'itu(le  of  A.H.S.     With  this  the  lon<,'itU(les  of  Camps  4.  '>  and  0 

are  eoiiiputed.     The  vahies  of  latitude  and  lon^ntude  are: — 

Camp  4.      I.at.  MT^  !•■{   24   .    lon^'.   7'»"  2<)'   '>" 

Camp  .").       ..      ;!7      '■'    Ht         ..        7")   29  r,H 

Camp  ().       ..     ;!7    11      4  .,       ir,   :{2  20 

Camp  1.  Lat.  ;J7"'  H'  44  ,  lon>j;.  74"  45'  ;"»:{".  The  lonj^'itude  was 
computed  throuj,'h  Teak  ").  tixedin  (  amp  a;  the  latitud<'  a^'reeinj^ 
within  21   . 

Camp  2.  Lat.  87'"  7  H"»  ,  lonj,'.  74'  r>U  4:$  .  The  longitude  was 
computed  through  Peak  "j,  f5.\ed  in  Camp  o.  The  latitude  companson 
is  very  satisfactory. 

Camp  120.  Lat.  ;$7^  32'  r>9'  .  lonj,'.  !'}•'  48  2(5  .  The  ion-itude 
was  computed  through  I'amir  Peak  No.  3.  The  latitude  of  the  peak 
computed  in  terms  of  Camp  120,  agrees  exactly  with  its  Pamir 
value. 

Cam])  13.  Lat.  36°  53'  2",  long.  76  2'  44".  An  attempt  was 
made  to  deduce  the  longitude  of  this  camp  from  various  camps 
chronometrieally,  but  none  of  tiiem  having  proved  relialde,  it  was 
computed  from  Camp  120  by  means  of  azinnitli  ami  dilVerenee  of 
latitudes  through   Peak  44. 

Camp  14.  Lat.  36  41  2'.>  .  long.  7f)  '■>  12  .  Tlie  longitude  of 
this  camp  is  computed  through  Peaks  33  and  35  of  Camp  13  by  diH'er- 
enee  of  latitudes  and  azimuths.     The  two  values  agree  exactly. 

Camp  15.  Lat.  36  3H'  58  .  long.  76"  13'  7  '.  The  longitude  was 
computed  through  Peaks  33  and  35  of  Camp  13.  The  two  values 
dillered  by  2 ',  the  mean  was  therefore  adopted.  Tlie  latitude  agreed 
within  20  '. 

Camp  16.  Lut.  36  32  46  .  long.  7()  2H  C,  .  The  longitude  of 
tliis  camp  is  computed  through  Peak  52  of  Cainp  15.  the  chronometer 
value  agreeing  within  1  7   . 

Camp  19.  Lat.  36  23'  56 ",  long.  76  49'  59 '.  There  being  no 
trigonometrical  connection  between  this  and  any  of  the  previous 
camps,  the  longitude  is  determined  by  chronometers  .\  and  H;  the 
dilTerenees  of  longitude  are  47  30  and  47  0  .  The  rate  shown  by 
chronometer  C  was  not  satisfactt)ry,  so  it  was  not  used. 

Ctuni)  21.  Jiat.  3(>  .34  15'  ,  long.  7<»  44  14  .  The  longitude  of 
this  camp  is  deduced  through  Peaks  77  and  78.  and  A.H.S.  of  Camp  19 
as  below  :  — 

Through  Peak  77  from  Cnnip  19.  resulting  longitude  7(i    11      8 
Peak  78  ..  19  ..  ..  76     14      7 

A.H.S.  ..  19  .,  ..  76    44  27 

Tlie  mean  of  the  above  values  has  been  lU'cepted. 

Camp  24.       Lat.   :'6     "8    54'  .  long.  76    42    10  .     The  longitude  of 


■^7^  .  I /'/'/■:. v/>/.\' 

this  ciiiup  is  cuiiiimlt'il  tln-ou;,'li  Teuks  77,  H7  iiiul  'JU.  witli  tliu 
followiiif,'  values  of  loiifjitudc : — 

Tlirou>,'h  Peak  77  fn)iii  ("amp  10,  rosultin},'lon^Mtu<lo  7(5    42'     1" 
IVak  Hi  ..  '1\         .,  ..  7fi    \1    lt> 

IViik  90  ,.  21         ,.  .,  7()    4J    II 

Tlu'  iiu-aii  of  tile  tluee  values  has  heeu  aecepted. 

Camp  2;J.  Lat.  36  49  12  ".  Ions.  70  31'  53  ".  The  lonRituclf  of 
the  camp  is  computed  through  Peaks  77,  94  and  96  and  H  end  of 
Ciunp  24,  with  the  following  values  of  longitude  : — 

Through  Peak  77  from  Cam])  24,  resulting  longitude  76    32    11 
Peak  94  ..  24  ..  .,  76   30  32 

Peak  96  ..  24  ,,  „  76   31   Hr, 

]J  end  „  24  „  ..  76   31   r.3 

The  longitude  deduced  through  Peak  94  Juxs  been  rejected  on  accoinit 
of  the  latitudes  of  this  peak  deduced  in  the  two  camps  dilTering  hv 
1'  26  .     Tiie  mean  of  the  otlier  tln'ce  values  has  been  accepted. 

Camp  109.  Lat.  34  53'  51  ",  long.  81  41'  10".  On  the  authority 
of  Captain  Deasy  this  camp  has  been  taken  as  identical  with  Camj)  15 
of  1H96.  The  longitude  is  computed  through  Peaks  36  and  56  of 
Camp  11  and  14-  of  Camp  3,  both  of  1896.  The  resulting  longitudes 
are  : — 

From  Peak  36.     Si     41     IH" 
56.     HI      n       1 
14-,    Hi      n    40 
The  latitude  comparison  at  the  three  peaks  is  satisfactory,  but  tlie 
observation  to  Peak  14-  has  been  noted  as  doubtful,  the  longitude 
through  this  peak  has  therefore  been  rejected.      Tlie  mean  of  the 
other  two  has  been  accepted.      Tlic  latitude,  longitude  and  height  of 
tiiis  camp  are  more  reliable  than  those  of  Camp  15  of  1H96.     Tlie 
values  of  Camp  109  have  therefore  been  adopted  in  the  latter  camp. 

Camp  110.  Lat.  34  57' 51' ,  long.  81  49' 33".  Tlie  longitude  of 
tliis  camp  is  computed  througli  the  following  points: — 

Through  Peak  36  of  Camp  11  of  1H96.  resulting  long.  Hi    49'  32" 


Peak  56 

., 

,, 

Peak  46 

,, 

,. 

Peak  14-- 

,, 

3 

A. U.S.  (' 

amp 

109 

(  .U.S. 

PeakH2 

., 

Peak  H3 

Peak  84 

.\.II.S.  ( 

amp 

110 

15. U.S. 

,, 

,, 

A. 

, 

J, 

110  lixed  in  (amp  109 


49 

10 

48 

14 

50 

9 

49 

34 

49 

34 

49 

39 

49 

40 

49 

27 

49 

38 

49 

35 

49 

37 

.\rri:.\i)i\  ni 

Tlic  lont^itude  throii},'h  IViik  46  is  dccliifcd  from  a  bud  conditioned 
triangle,  and  the  observation  to  I'euk  14'  has  been  noted  as  doubtful  ; 
the  lonjjitiides  throu},'h  these  two  peaks  have  therefore  been  rejected, 
and  the  mean  of  the  remaining,'  ten  has  been  accei>ti'd.  All  the 
latitudes  excepting  those  of  the  rejected  two  j)eaks  agree  within  5  ' ; 
and  the  latitudes  of  Teak  'it),  us  coniputctl  in  lw(j  cmips,  dilTci' 
by  56 '. 

Camp  112.  Lat.  85  29  ')9  ,  long.  Hi'  52' 24  .  The  longitude  is 
computed  through  Peaks  H2.  07  and  42  us  below  : 

Peak  82  from  Camp  lOU,  resulting  longitude  ST  52  27  ' 
„      97  „  no  ,,  „  81    52  24 

„      42  „  110  ,,  „  81    52   21 

The  mean  of  the  three  values  has  been  accepted.  The  latitude  coni- 
parison  shows  a  maximum  difference  of  18". 

Camp  100.  I.ut.  35°  48'  10  ",  long.  82  19'  8".  The  longitude  of 
this  camp  is  computed  tlirough  Peak  42  of  Camp  110  and  Peaks 
54,  55  and  64  of  Camp  112.  The  four  values  agreed  within  5"; 
the  mean  has  ijeen  accepted.  Tlie  iiiaxiiiiuni  difVereiice  in  latitudes 
is  22". 

Camp  99.  Lat.  35  58'  51".  long.  82  ;i2'  5".  Tlie  longitude  of 
this  camp  is  computed  as  follows : 

Through  Peak  41  of  Can)p  100,  resulting  long.  H2   ;i2'  1' 

42                  110                 ..  82   32   2 

66                  100                 ..  82   32   8 

.-.1                  11-2  82   32   4 

04         ..        112                  ..  82   32   9 

The  mean  has  l)een  accepted.  The  latitude  comparison  is  very 
satisfactory. 

Camp  98.  Lut.  35  41'  4".  long.  81  54'!'.  Tiie  longitude  of  this 
camp  is  conijjutnl  with  Itic  following  results : — 

Through  Peak  42  of  Camp  1 1(».  resulting  long.  81"  53'  56" 


(■).•$ 

lOI) 

.-.! 

112 

.M 

112 

.".;> 

112 

81    5 

\     2 

Si    .-. 

1   :;() 

SI     .-, 

>     (1 

si    ;, 

1      1 

The   longitude  througli    Peak   51.  hein-.'   (lisiH)rdant.   is   rejected.      The 
mean  of  the  other  four  values  has  been  uccept<'d. 

Cunip  93.  Lat.  35  40'  2".  long.  82'  10'  2.S'.  The  longitude  of 
this  cami)  is  computed  through  Peaks  42  of  Camp  110.  63ofCump  KM), 
and  55  and  64  of  Cump  112.  The  maxinunn  dilTerence  in  longitude 
between  the  four  values  is  45".  The  mean  has  lieen  aecepteil.  Tiu- 
latitude  comparison  is  satisfactory. 


374  J/7V-;.\VV.V 

Camp  97.      Lat.  35'  41'  10",  lowj,.  M     is'  .IT".      Tlif  l.m^iliuU'  of 
this  ciinip  is  determined  as  below  : 

Throuj,'h  A.II.S  of  ("amp  97  fixed  in  (':imp9S.  resultiiiL,'  \<>n'^.  Kl     IM'  56" 


D.ll.S. 

..      97 

A.H.S. 

9K 

]'eak'2-) 

9S 

..     '2() 

9S 

.,     -27 

9S 

..     41 

..      1(H) 

..      \-2 

..      llll 

.,     <)6 

..      U)U 

„   107 

„     112 

Hi 

AH 

');■) 

HI 

■\H 

')") 

S] 

\H 

.").') 

Si 

•IS 

')') 

SI 

4H 

50 

si 

•19 

1 

si 

IS 

is 

Hi 

19 

i 

HI 

19 

1 

The  lon<,'itude  througliout  Peak  42,  being  discordant,  is  rejected.  Tiie 
mean  of  the  rest  is  accepted. 

Camp  116.  Lat.  35°  52'  46",  long.  81  30'  23".  The  longitude  of 
tliis  camp  was  computed  through  Peaks  28,  37  and  113  of  Camp  97, 
and  Peak  58  of  Camp  98.  The  value  deduced  througli  Peak  28,  being 
discordant,  is  rejected.  The  maximum  difference  between  the  other 
values  is  25"  ;  their  mean  has  been  accepted.  Tlie  hititude  com- 
parison is  satisfactory. 

Camp  73.  Lat.  36  14'  is",  long.  Hi  30'  59''.  The  longitude  of 
this  camp  is  computed  through  Peaks  41  and  66  of  Can:]!  lUd.  and 
Peaks  119,  28  and  115  of  Camp  116.  The  latitudes  of  Peak  119,  as 
deduced  in  two  camps,  differ  by  2'  29"  ;  the  longitude  thx'ough  this 
Peak  is  therefore  rejected.  Tlie  mean  of  the  remaining  four  has  been 
accepted.  The  probable  error  in  longitude,  neglecting  the  probable 
error  of  the  initial  longitude,  is  1". 

Camp  67.  Lat.  36  30'  42".  long.  80  47'  32".  The  longitude  of 
this  camp  is  computed  through  Tekilagh  Tagh  (A)  (identical  with  Kuin 
Li'm  No.  2,  of  Synoptical  volume  vii.  of  the  G.T.  Survey  of  India) 
and  Peak  37  of  Camp  97,  and  by  azimuth  and  difference  of  latitudes 
through  Peak  12  of  Camp  73.  The  last  determination,  being  discordant, 
is  rejected.  The  latitudes  of  Tekilagh  Tagh  (A),  as  deduced  in  this 
camp  and  in  the  Synoptical  volume  vii.,  ditt'er  by  28",  and  the  latitude 
of  Peak  37,  as  deduced  in  Camps  97  and  67,  differ  by  30".  Tlie 
remaining  two  values  of  the  longitude  agree  within  29";  their  mean 
has  been  accepted. 

Camp  84.  Lat.  36  47'  8",  long.  88  50'  22".  As  there  is  no 
trigonometrical  connection  of  this  camp  with  any  of  the  previous 
camps,  an  attempt  was  made  to  determine  the  longitude  by  chrono- 
meter comparison  from  Camps  73  and  96.  The  values  by  A  and  C 
chronometers  in  Camp  73  are  83  57'  44"  and  83  42'  59".  As  there 
was  no  comparison  of  C  at  Cam])  91).  the  value  deduced  by  the  only 


Arr/ixnix  17-, 

chronometer  A  from  that  camp  is  H3  46'  58".  Although  there  is  a 
difference  of  15'  in  the  two  values  from  Camp  73,  their  mean, 
83  ")U'  22",  closely  aj,'rees  with  that  adopteil  by  Captain  Deasy  in  his 
computations.     This  mean  has  thtTcfore  been  accepted. 

Cam})  102.  Lat.  39  28'  19".  Ion;;.  70  1'  2".  An  attt-mpt  was 
made  to  deduce  the  longitude  of  this  camp  by  chronometer  compari- 
son from  Camps  3")  and  37.  Chronometers  A  and  C  were  used,  and 
the  values  were  all  discordant ;  but  that  by  chronometer  A  of  Camp  35 
seemed  more  reliable,  as  it  is  not  far  from  the  longitude  shown  on  the 
plane  table  and  Captain  Trotter's  value  of  Yangi  Shakr  'Kashgarl. 
This  value  has  therefore  been  accepted. 

NoTK. — All  longitudes  in  this  list  aro  in  (iiial  (r.  T.  ttTiiis,  and  rf(iuire  a 
correction  of — 2'  80"  to  hrinir  tlieiii  to  Greenwich  terms. 


COMPUTATION    OF    CAPTAIN    DEASY'S    TTF.TC.IITS, 
1897-98-99. 

Tlic  heights  in  the  \Vestern  portion  of  Captain  Deasy 's  work  of 
l897-98-99_are  based  on  the  heights  of  3  P.C.  and  5  P.C.  of  Pamir 
Triangulation.  Those  in  the  Eastern  portion  are  based  on  the 
heights  of  Peaks  30  and  50  of  Camp  11  of  his  work  of  1896,  which 
again  were  based  on  the  fundamental  height  of  Camp  3  of  1890, 
obtained  from  a  series  of  observations  with  a  mercurial  "barometer  at 
various  camps,  the  relative  heights  of  which  had  been  determined 
by  triangulation.  The  heights  of  1890  were  computed  differentially 
from  Leh,  by  means  of  simultaneous  observations  recorded  there. 
The  heights  of  astronomical  cami)s  of  1897-98-99  which  were  not 
connected  by  triangulation  were  (itted  in  between  two  triangulation 
camps;  that  is  to  say,  one  triangulation  camp  was  computed  in 
terms  of  another  tlnough  a  chain  of  astronomical  camps,  the  relative 
height  of  each  camp  being  deduced  barometrically,  differentially  from 
one  innnediately  preceding  it.  The  difference  between  the  value  tiuis 
obtained  and  the  fixed  value  of  height  was  distributed  amongst  tlie 
intermediate  astronomical  camps.  In  computing  the  relative  heights 
the  co-enicifiit  I'f  refraction  was  taken  as  ()•()('). 

Dated,  Dkiika   D.  n.    I  ..         .'';    ^'f*''}'^}^'    ^^■■):\    ,. 

■J Kill,   P.KM).     1  /       ,  .,  i  •        I.      i 

•^  )  III  iliixrqr  (  t>iii2>ii(tiiil  J  <irti/. 


376 


APPEXn/X 


LATITUDES,    LONGITUDES,    AND    HEIGHTS    OF    PEAKS 
FIXED  FROM  CAPTAIN  DEASY'S  CAMPS  IN  1896. 


Ifome  of  Station. 

Latitude 

N. 

Longitude 

Height 

above  Sea 

Level. 

0 

- 

/, 

Feet. 

Cami- 

1. 

PeakE.  81  (G.T.) 

34 

18  31 

79  36 

28 

20950 

Lanai 
3. 

La  

23 

50 

79  36 

50  1 

18000 

Camp 

Peak 

6 

34 

30 

31 

80  24 

55 

20540 

" 

9 

23 
47 

40 
10 

79  52 

80  21 

9 
32 

20250 

11 

21350 

12 

45 

7 

23 

19 

20960 

l;} 

47 

0 

40 

57 

20470 

1) 

14  

53 
44 

42 
6 

81  0 
80  40 

1 

6 

20270 

ir, 

19380 

^^ 

18  IG.T.) 

26 

53 

17 

21 

20150 

19 

24 

22 

20 

59 

19990 

,. 

20 

22 

36 

17 

45 

20500 

22 

21 

25 

2 

57 

20610 

11. 

2") 

22 

20 

79  55 

17 

Camp 

Peak 

HP) 

34 

31 
34 

19 
43 

81  11 

28 

21 

8 

19010 

36 

20180 

39 

46 

57 

11 

50 

18560 

,, 

41 

30 

27 

80  48  48 

20620 

4.-. 

23 

51 

54 

17 

21120 

46 

20 

9 

55 

58 

21140 

47 

20 

7 

81  0 

31 

20580 

53 

35 

2 

2 

29 

16 

55 

34 

44 

32 

41 

14 

56 

35 

19 

27 

80  58 

22 

23490 

Camp 

22. 

Peak 

78 

34 

27 

50 

82  31 

48 

18850 

79 

9 

20 

13 

12 

20980 

80 

17 

39 

82  1 

24 

21090 

,. 

81 

22 

54 

81  41 

18 

20470 

Camp 

27. 

Peak 

87a  

33 

51 

54 

82  38  25 

19360 

APPENDIX 


177 


Name  of  Station. 


Latitude 
N. 


LoDf^itude 

v.. 


Height 
aliove  Sea 

l,.-Vfl. 


Cami-  28. 

Peak  92 34  ')  1 

93 33  5(3  5 

Cam  I"  29. 

Peak  94 33  58  45 

95 48  59 

Camp  32. 

Peak  89 33  40  53 

.,   104 33  41 

„   105 39  55 

„   lOB 13  58 

„   107 46  27 

„   lOH 15  33 

„   109 11  2 

„   110 16  24 

„   110 27  54 

„   117 36  22 

Camp  34. 

Peak  120 33  25  35 

„   122 32  48  0 

„   123 33  19  45 

Camp  43. 

Peak  132 32  34  12 

„   133 44  1 

„   134 42  17 

„   135 54  10 

Camp  49. 

Peak  13() '.VI   \\\     (i 

„   137 40  55 

„   140 45  21 

,,   141 33  7  38 

„   144 35  49 

Camp  51. 

Peak  142 33  26  56 

..   159 25  45 

..   163 46  38 

„   16(i 22  45 

„   168 38  52 

„   170 32  47  58 


82  15  28 

40  58 

18930 

82  19  33 

20100 

40  2 

82  32  48 

20690 

41  10 

19010 

83  15  53 

19840 

20  41 

19180? 

3  1 

18300 

31  36 

20120 

27  12 

20910 

82  7 . 45 

20480 

17  57 

20970 

22  48 

1 '.(',»!  0 

82  53  18 

17270 

82  0  52 

82  36  25 

16900 

1 
82  5  17 

18120 

81  42  47 

19140 

57  4 

16750 

38  10 

18960 

82  11  16 

ITS  10 

21  8 

17500 

10  22 

18430 

81  55  29 

16870 

58  8 

20550 

81  44  58 

21020 

52  34 

19830 

82  23  38 

20820 

11  37 

19850 

si  .-,()  17 

19780 

11  -J.-) 

20980 

w^ 


irriiXDix 


Niiiiu'  of  Station. 


Lalitudo 
N. 


(  AMP    "iT. 

iViik     70 ;M    l'.»     (» 

..       1st 38  4K  4-2 

„      IH.") 40  ;J7 

„      187 43  53 

..      IKH 44  11> 

„      195 34     8  23 

„      198 24  42 

„      201 33  43     4 

,.      205 59  10 

Camp  61. 

Peak  213 33  55  42 

Camp  63. 

Peak  212 33  48  13 

.,      220 34  19  43 

..      221 13  29 

Camp  67. 

Peak    28 34  30  27 

„      235 20  53 

„      237 33  35  54 

„      240 34     4     1 

,.      241 4  56 

..      242 7  31 

,,      244 !  9  46 

„      245 13  59 

„      246 33  25  42 

„      247 35  39 

„      249 18  59 

.,      250 39  59 

,,      251 37  56 

.,      256 34     5  49 

Camp  74. 

Peak  E.  32  ((i.T.i 31  16     9 

„      269 14  40 


Ijon^'itude 

Hoi^lit 
above  St-a 

Level. 

Feet. 

SI  IS 

is 

2(».'»<10 

44 

47 

19500 

20 

29 

20100 

15 

27 

19780 

13 

36 

19880 

9 

40 

20110 

33 

19 

20060 

37 

21 

19600 

38 

22 

80  44 

24 

18370 

81  3 

58 

19120 

80  38 

3 

21000 

36 

2 

18290 

80  48 

43 

17 

48 

20610 

54 

3 

19360 

19 

51 

20060 

22 

25 

19830 

24 

43 

19340 

20 

11 

191)S() 

57 

39 

20890 

36 

44 

29 

4 

19230 

11 

1 

23 

27 

18800 

8 

1 

19530 

9  54 

17 

22120 

79  40 

52 

21560 

38 

2 

21270 

Note. — All  Lonf,'itiides  are  in  final  G.  T.  terms  and  require  a  correction 
of  -2'  .'W  to  brinf,'  them  to  the  Greenwich  tei'ms. 

Dehka  Dl-n,  }    St.  G.  C.  GORE,  Likut.-Colonel,  R.E., 

17//(  Scjitcinhrr,  1897.  (         Sitpcrintcndefit,  Trir/nometrical  SurveijH. 

Comptirctl  bij  K.  K.  Dus  and  Ham  Sinuh  {/rvm  the  jjrinied  pamphlet). 


}/'/'/■:. y/)/.\' 


379 


LATITUDES,  LONCilTLDJlS.  AND  .MACiNKTIC    I  >i:(l.l  NATH  iN 
AT  CAPTAIN  DEASY'S  CAMl'S. 


Date. 


I'lm 


LutiluacX         Longitude  K.     ncdiSuH. 


iMtt; 

16  .luiie      ("a 

iiji  1 

M     28 

23 

79 

34 

28 

3  .')() 

19  ,. 

;! 

27 

3 

79 

58 

25 

3  47 

21   ., 

4 

:!1 

40 

HO 

s 

0 

3  55 

22  ., 

."> 

•  >'iy 

16 

SO 

16 

0 

3  52 

2;-)  ,. 

7 

;54 

15 

80 

37 

30 

3  50 

26  ., 

s 

;59 

8 

80 

49 

27 

3  48 

27  ., 

9 

;;.s 

51 

80 

58 

15 

3  48 

28  ,. 

.   10 

46 

1 

81 

15 

20 

3  23 

.-)  Juh 

.   I'i 

41 

40 

SI 

24 

05 

3  50 

6  ., 

,  i:i 

4.S 

25 

Si 

■'il') 

10 

;!   10 

10  ., 

.  1") 

53 

51 

81 

41 

10 

3  52 

IH  ,. 

.   16 

54 

57 

81 

55 

10 

3  47 

19  ., 

.   17 

55 

38 

82 

15 

20 

3  49 

20  „ 

.   IH 

52 

36 

82 

23 

35 

3  47 

21  „ 

,   19 

50 

34 

82 

1 

10 

3  45 

2o  „ 

,   22 

43 

10 

82 

15 

25 

3  45 

27  „ 

,   23 

34  38 

7 

82 

5 

50 

3  41 

31  „ 

,   26 

19 

IK 

S2 

10 

0 

3  33 

2  Aug. 

.   27 

>.) 

1 

82 

1 

6 

3  38 

y   „ 

.   28 

o 

;!4 

82 

20 

12 

3  32 

4  ., 

.   29 

33  :>i 

13 

82 

26 

46 

3  37 

•")  . , 

.  ;;() 

IS 

10 

82 

29 

50 

3  29 

7  „ 

.   31 

4.-) 

14 

82 

39 

10 

3  24 

20  ,. 

.   32 

39 

0 

K2 

45 

57 

3  32 

21  .. 

,   33 

33 

41 

82 

46 

25 

3  22 

2y  ., 

,   34 

26 

42 

82 

52 

19 

3  29 

2;-)  ., 

,   ;!') 

17 

27 

82 

45 

20 

3  18 

28  .. 

.   36 

s 

II) 

82 

49 

58 

3  22 

30  ., 

,   37 

33   (t 

0 

82 

53 

19 

3  29 

31  „ 

,   38 

32  54 

8 

82 

46 

0 

3  24 

1  Sept. 

.   39 

46 

58 

82 

42 

0 

3  IS 

3  ., 

,   40 

11 

17 

S2 

15 

20 

;j  13 

4  .. 

.   41 

;;i 

15 

S2 

15 

40 

;!   1  I 

(•)  .. 

.   42 

3-2 

35 

M2 

32 

10 

2  5S 

9  .. 

.  4:5 

32 

32 

82 

30 

.■>s 

;;  4 

10  ,. 

.   4.-. 

32 

.")6 

K2 

'.) 

5S 

3   7 

11  .. 

.   -I.-) 

:',t\ 

11 

S2 

'.» 

5S 

3   10 

1;")  .. 

.   46 

\r> 

21 

SI 

50 

:;o 

3   11 

17  ., 

.   4« 

.')(•) 

i:: 

SI 

50 

35 

3   5 

18  .. 

.   40 

:!3   :i 

11 

S2 

7 

37 

;!  25 

19  .. 

.')( I 

;) 

1.". 

si 

."i.") 

10 

:;  10 

21  .. 

.   .-.1 

16 

;:i 

s2 

1 

1 

3  23 

23  „ 

.   .■)2 

22 

i:. 

SI 

5  1 

.-, 

3  20 

24  .. 

.  r,n 

29 

1 1 

si 

52 

15 

3  35 

38o 


irriixn/x 


Dati' 


Place. 


Latitude  N.     ,   Longitude  E.    oeclSon  10 


IHiXi 

, 

,, 

a 

, 

25  St'i>t. 

Cuiup  Tj  I 

34 

24 

81 

51 

20 

3 

29 

26  .. 

;");") 

40 

53 

81 

51 

20 

3 

24 

27  ,. 

.,   56 

33 

44 

36 

81 

43 

38 

3 

23 

2H  .. 

.,   57 

47 

35 

81 

36 

8 

3 

27 

1  Out. 

..   58 

48 

47 

81 

33 

15 

3 

26 

2 

..   59 

55 

26 

HI 

22 

.") 

3 

32 

/> 

..   61 

53 

37 

HI 

11 

23 

3 

32 

(■)  .. 

,.   62 

53 

6 

80 

57 

10 

3 

31 

'.)  .. 

.,   63 

59 

40 

80 

51 

25 

3 

31 

10  ,, 

„   64 

55 

8 

80 

45 

0 

3 

30 

11  » 

„  65 

48 

8 

80 

42 

30 

3 

28 

iS  .. 

..   66 

49 

34 

80 

35 

0 

3 

35 

13  „ 

..   67 

54 

53 

80 

33 

IC) 

3 

30 

17  „ 

„   68 

58 

49 

80 

23 

45 

3 

28 

18  „ 

„   69 

34 

0 

1 

80 

17 

0 

3 

26 

19  „ 

„   70 

2 

24 

8(J 

(J 

0 

3 

34 

20  „ 

„   71 

3 

31 

80 

0 

0 

;! 

31 

21  „ 

„   72 

2 

44 

79 

53 

30 

3 

35 

22  „ 

1)  7;! 

2 

46 

79 

48 

0 

3 

31 

23  „ 

„   74 

3 

43 

79 

43 

1 

3 

27 

1S97 

Seco> 

o  E 

X1'KDITI0^ 

20  Oct. 

1 

37 

8 

44 

74 

45 

53 

4 

30 

yi    .. 

2 

7 

35 

56 

43 

4 

53 

2  Nov. 

4 

37 

13 

24 

75 

26 

5 

4 

45 

4  ,. 

!>     5 

•I 

10 

29 

58 

4 

38 

5  ., 

1    „    6 

11 

4 

32 

20 

4 

39 

10  „ 

n   7 

36 

.".(■> 

1 

75 

44 

0 

4 

35 

19  .. 

9 

37 

2 

43 

76 

6 

30 

4 

49 

23  „ 

„  1:5 

53 

2 

76 

2 

44 

4 

26 

29  „ 

„   14 

41 

29 

9 

12 

4 

24 

30  „ 

,.   15 

38 

58 

13 

7 

4 

39 

1  Dec. 

„   16 

32 

46 

28 

l'> 

1 

33 

4  .. 

„   18 

24 

20 

76 

41 

t(( 

1 

16 

;j 

„   19 

23 

56 

76 

49 

59 

4 

23 

14  „ 

„   21 

36 

34 

15 

76 

44 

14 

1 

34 

16  ,. 

„   23 

49 

12 

31 

53 

4 

41 

22  ., 

„  24 

38 

54 

42 

10 

4 

32 

\hf.)H 

;5  .Tan. 

„   27 

36 

58 

43 

17 

38 

4 

52 

17  .. 

..  ;!4 

43 

51 

58 

30 

4 

54 

11  Feb. 

,.   40 

37 

52 

10 

47 

40 

5 

3 

12  .. 

..   41 

44 

23 

37 

30 

4 

53 

14  .. 

..  4:i 

40 

54 

18 

0 

4 

59 

2:!  .. 

.,   46 

59 

9 

39 

0 

5 

0 

LS  April 

„   53 

40 

55 

78 

0 

3 

4 

51 

Ar/'/ixn/x 


381 


Datf. 


1898 
'29  April 
'24  .. 
•H\  .. 
;>()  .. 
1 


Pliu 


l.iililuilf  N. 


May 


4 


'24  .. 

'20  .. 

;ii    .. 

4  June 


IH      .. 

'21      .. 

4.1nlv 

6     ,. 

17     .. 

'25     „ 

10  Auk. 

'27  July 

')  Auj,'. 

i;{    .. 

10     .. 

'24     „ 

2;-)     .. 

'27     .. 

'IH     .. 

'21t     .. 

:u)    „ 

:{  Sept. 
10     .. 

'20     .. 

21     .. 

12  Nov. 

1.-!     .. 

'20     ., 

(1     1  i, .    . 

J     1   MU    . 

10     .. 

is'tit 

:n  Jan. 

1  I'eb. 

11     .. 

Camp  .'54 


;■)•> 
60 
62 

m 

67 
()S 
70 
72 

7;{ 

7.') 
70 
H2 

m 

84 

i)l 

94 

93 

96 

97 

98 

99 

100 

103 

104 

106 

107 

KlH 

1(1*1 

11(1 

il-2 


1-21 1 
12! 
1-2;! 

i;;i 

l.!l 

l:!7 

1.-.;! 
l.vi 
l.-.(> 


3;-) 


37 

26 

44 

22 

•>9 

38 

27 

23 

22 

6 

17 

m 

12 

30 

7 

21 

30  42 

22   H 


18 

11 

14 

43  '>:) 

-)1  '29 


:!.'.  29 
3.-)  42 


32 
37 


1.-) 
47 

iH 


43 

55 

45 

30 

47 

8 

59 

35 

39 

46 

40 

2 

40 

26 

41 

10 

41 

4 

58 

51 

48 

10 

33 

•( 

31 

11 

19 

56 

7 

1 

39 

19 

.")7 

.-.1 
51 

:is 


3S 


(> 
1 1 
I! 


.•i5 

I'.i 


l^oiiKitud 

(•  1-; 

0 

, 

78 

21 

40 

34 

10 

36 

is 

35 

47 

48 

47 

79 

11 

17 

79 

38 

51 

58 

17 

80 

47 

32 

.so 

.•!0 

•) 

si 

4 

0 

HI 

'•VI 

12 

:>() 

:>\) 

81 

34 

7 

4.3 

45 

83 

'22 

22 

83 

34 

29 

83 

50 

22 

82 

26 

.55 

82 

0 

1) 

10 

2s 

81 

4S 

43 

48 

57 

54 

1 

82 

32 

.") 

19 
.•13 

8 
30 

Si 

.")() 

i 

81 

43 

1 

•!  1 

M 

si 

'  >  1 
tl 

49 

•  >  ( 

10 

si 

52 

21 

si 

;!:; 

50 

SI 

:;() 

2.'! 

7.> 

SS 

•1^\ 

.39 

19 

11 

5('i 

70 

•20 

00 

70 

1-2 

10 

7"i 

.'iS 

!('• 

77 

7 

.•;u 

77 

19 

50 

( 7 

25 

is 

>fftj;iU'tic 

Dc'cliiiittioii  !• 

1 

1 

3.1 
39 

1 

40 

1 

40 

1 

.39 

1 

49 

1 

24 

1 

1 

26 

(1 

\ 

4 

29 

3 

56 

:; 

54 

4 
1 
1 

5 
1 

1  12 
1  10 
4  5 
58 
2 

10 
53 
54 
52 
48 
,30 
44 

O 
49 
47 

40 
.")5 
47 
10 
51 

1 
II 

O 
11 
1(1 


1   53 
I  52 


;8: 


.irriixnix 


ATiTihKs.    i.oNdrn  iii;s.  anh    iii;i(.iiTs    or   ri:AKs 

ll\i:i>   lllo.M   C.M'TAIN  DEASY'S  CAMPS  IN   lHy7-yH-99. 


(■ 

AMP 
.V.MI' 

.\  MI- 
AM  r 

Mill  ^.M,,.,„. 1  |'..uks. 

1.— T.AOHDUMB.ASM    I'.VMIK. 
15   

halitiicU-  N 

87     s  :!:; 
87   12  28 
87     7  49 
87  12     0 

87  12  no 

87     2  17 
87  11  ni 
87     7  n7 
80  n7  81 

87   14  21 
87   11  82 
87  27  17 
87  21  n7 
87   17     8 
87   18  21 
87     1   IH 
87    H  2n 
87   11  40 
87   18     9 

87     H     7 
("onniioii 
87     K  21 

80  n4  n8 
80  -,'}  no 
30  ni  3n 

30  47     1 
87   10     0 
87     0  80 

8s  17  no 
8H    n  21 
8H  11  .-,:; 

87    11    17 

l,...,,.ii,„|..  K 

7 1   in  10 

74  40     0 
74  47  29 
74  40  17 
74  40  10 
74  no    4 
7n     1      1 
7n  17  20 

74  no  2n 

7n  2n  88 
7n  8n    0 
7n  82  n(j 
7n  38  n9 
7n  80  2n 
7n  41  40 
7n  41    0 
7n  23  ni 
7n  28  n9 

7n  22  82 

7n  80  81 
to  C'iiiiips 
7n  2H  20 

7n  48  3n 

7n  40  28 
7n  39  40 
7n  89   10 
7n  87     4 

7n  42  n2 
7n  m  22 
7n  19  ni 
7n  18  no 

7n  82  87 

ll.i^'lii 
I'ei-l. 

U.S.  A 

U.S.  li    

ls.-,20 
l»).s20 

H.S.  r 

i'eak     1   

„       2  

„       4  

18020 

192SO 
ISC'.tO 
19020 

()  

20740 

c 

4. — r.i.vuii.M. 

1!  

M.S.  A 

I'caU     H   

i7()no 
i.snno 

(t   

1.S170 

..      1(1   

i7n(to 

..      11    

1  .S(  H  l( ) 

..      12  

17790 

..      is  

17220 

,.     1<.)   

18040 

..     20  

ion4o 

(■ 

n.        M  \/..\l:    SlLT.VN. 

J!  

H.S.  A 

I'liiin  Stiitiiiii  C 

lV:ik  18  

..     14   

4  \-  0 

12n80 

ISHIU 

17SJ0 

..     m  

isioo 

..     It)  

IH'.IOO 

..     27  

..     2H  

..     29   

19840 

..     80   

174H() 

c 

Taglijuinaiisu  tlble.  Peak 

(Diflcn-iil   frniii  I'Rinir  C'oiii- 

iiii>-siMii  IVak  of  tliis  name-.) 

0. —  Nk.M!  M.^z.m;  SlLT.\N. 
15  

\rr/-.xn/.\  383 


Hill  stations  and  IViiks  ia;i:     I.   \          I.on^dtude  E.  )    Height. 

F.-i'l 

U.S.  A Cojiiiuoii         to  ("aiiips         4  &   "> 

Teak  24  ;i7    ;5  m       ir,  2:?    ♦•) 

..     25   HO  54   '.0          7.')  24   10 

(ami-     l;i.—   SaUOK     K  AMI^Il. 

li 

U.S.  .\ :!0  5S   15 

U.S.  ]',      :!0   55  -ll 

U.S.  (' :!0  55     7 

Teak  ^5H   :iO  :!2   1  I 

„    }]-,  ;;o  ;;i   11 

„    H7  :!0  2;{  47 

.,    ;{H  :!(■)  .'is  10 

..     4:5   ;57     2  21 

..    44  :!7    u  ;!0 

Cami'  15. — (jiiiNd  .Ian(';ai.. 

Ji  

Peak  51   :$0  ;!5  51 

..    52  :iO  :iO  24 

..     5;!  :!(;  44  41 

("ami-   10. — A/.GAK. 

15  

U.S.  A :!0  :ii  n2 

I'dik  54  :{0  ;n  25 

..     55   :!0  2H  ;{5 

..     50   ;iO  2!»  57 

..    57  :!0  2^»  n<i) 

..     5.S   ;50  20  W 

Cwii'    I'.l.      I'.  \/.Ai;    I>ai:a. 

li  

U.S.  A ;;ti  ^11    1 

U.S.  w    ;!0  -11  ;;() 

IViik  5'.»  ;;o  -27  11 

..    o-i  ;to  21  :i-2 

..    c.t  ;!0  22  .•i7 

..    (U  ;!0  22  47 

..    f>5  ;io  21  H'.* 

..    JiO  :!0  21  :!4 

,.    70  :»•.  20  iw 

..    74  ."to  :il   17 

..    77  :»■)  :5t')  2i» 

..    7h  :H'  :n  27 

.,     k:{  :;o  20   Ht 


70  0 
70  :; 

11 
15 

l:'.ll() 
142<)0 

70  -2 

1 

llOSO 

7()  11) 

51 

I'tSHO 

7<)  10 

;{ 

2()H70 

7()  14 

:?() 

20050 

70  H 

:; 

10020 

75  50 

:io 

l()5i)0 

75  7)') 

52 

1S500 

<.»o;5o 

7()  24 

."i5 

15S10 

70  I'.t 

10 

l.!r>70 

70  2 

4 

17N50 

7()  27  HH 

12110 

7t)  2W  5S 

14790 

70  2.S  59 

15100 

7()  27  28 

15210 

70  21  42 

20120 

70  :52  AH 

70  49 

5:t 

1«)HH0 

70  47 

5:} 

15500 

70  51 

;u) 

20170 

70  49 

57 

170H0 

7('»  45 

47 

17750 

70  I  1 

4:5 

70  40 

55 

7(>  .-IS 

4:1 

7t)  41 

.'(9 

70  40 

27 

2«)2:k. 

70  40 

10 

20  ISO 

70  4H 

51 

l'.t240 

70  51 

55  1 

1  20100 

3**^4 


irrF.xfi/x 


l,..nt'itii.l.'  K 


H. •it-Ill 


(AMI'  '21.--TAriN  ("hat. 

w 

U.S.  A ;{(i  ;{4  '1\\ 

U.S.  w    -Mi  wi  -A 

H.S.  C 

Peak  8,1  36  :5:{  .iO 

„     80   30  37  3;^ 

..     87   30  37  47 

..     88  30  31   1<» 

..     89  ;}0  31  ;')() 

..     <l()  30  35  32 

..     ill    30  '27   18 

Cami'  23. — Zai). 

15  

U.S.  A 36  47     4 

U.S.  IJ 30  49  20. 

H.S.C 30  48  41 

H.S.  1)     30  48  10 

H.S.  E     30  47  31 

Teak  97  30  38  21 

„     98  30  r>8  1") 

„     99  37     9   12 

..  100  37     8  13 

..   101   37     4     8 

,.   102  37     2  18 

„   103  36  r,9     1 

„   104   37     r,     0 

Camp  24.     KiKALrNi;  I'ass. 

li 30  39  39 

H.S.  A     

Peak  92  30  40  18 

„     93   30  39  38 

,.     94   30  ")7  3.-) 

..     9.">   30   ")1    17 

,.     90  30  47  ;V2 

Camp  07. — Chaka.  j 

V. 

H.S.  A 36  31  19 

H.S.  J}     30  28  47 

H.S.  C     30  31  30 

Takila^'h  Ta;,'li   (A),  or  ) 

Kinn     Luii    No.     2.  30  29  34 

(i.T.  Peak,  j 


15710 

70  44 

20 

151.-,0 

70  44 

13 

10390 
10030 

70  42 

37 

70  41 

.34 

iscoo 

70  44 

28 

isc.io 

70  43 

42 

19M0 

70  42 

44 

19350 

7()  44 

43 

1S070 

70  ni 

40 

2n2()() 
l:!7()0 

7()  28 

r,o 

17110 

70  30 

-)() 

1  12.'.(l 

70  30 

-)() 

1  lloo 

70  31 

22 

14:;io 

7(i  31 

4 

15:120 

7()  .".9 

14 

230(iO 

7tJ  2.") 

14 

18320 

7()  ir. 

48 

70  1') 

38 

175K0 

70  1.") 

21 

17070 

76  11 

1 

1H070 

76  11 

•')  ( 

1S79(I 

7(')  10 

48 

173  JO 

70  43 

T) 

17690 
1(>400 

71)  41 

29 

lt)570 

70  43 

43 

1H.S20 

70  2.'» 

.-»9 

207  .'.0 

70  33 

52 

18820 

70  39 

50 

18430 

80  48 

52 

0800 

80  49 

19 

6510 

80  45 

11 

7000 

80  25  20 


irriixn/x  385 


Hill  stations  and  Pfiiks 


TakiliiRh  Tagh  ("Rl  .... 
Takilagli  Tagli  (Ci  .... 
Peak  1-2U 

„     121 

,.      122 

.,     12;{ 

„     124 

„     143 

Camp  73. — Nkai!  Toll'. 

V> 

H.S.  .\ 

Teak    1   

!!    .-5 

4  

, ,        ")  

„        H  

1»  

..      10  

..      11  

.,      12  

„      13  

Camp  84. — Kaka  Sai. 

15 30  47  .')1         s;;  .-)]     ii 

H.S.  A ...  ...  loscu 

U.S.  I!     ;!<;  -Ki  ;};! 

IViik  IC)  .-JC.  .-,()  \'> 

.,     17   •!(•)  .-)()  -.W 

„     IH  ;!(•)  4.')  4(t 

„    Ht  -jt)  i:^    :, 

„  20  .JO  4.3  i» 

„  21  ;!(•)  43  24 

,,  23  ;!(•)  12  2.') 

,.  24  :;(;  |2  11 


Cami'  '.»3. — Yki'ai,  rMiii; 


l.ati 

tIKl.-  N. 

30  33 

li'-nKitnd 

Ic  K. 

Height. 

3(°) 

80 

24 

58 

1  .  .  ■ 

31  > 

31  2 

80  24 

19 

3(i 

32  4() 

HO 

31 

2 

3C> 

33  31 

SO 

33 

."» 

30 

4  42 

80 

10 

24 

30 

3  '22 

HO 

10 

40 

30 

2  44 

80 

IH 

.')() 

3o 

;j8  48 

81 

0 

23 

3() 

13  .■).-. 

Hi 

:  '>(  1 

1.". 

10.V20 

30 

1.-)  30 

81 

2'.t 

II 

10270 

3() 

9  37 

81 

40 

(1 

1.->H00 

30 

7  ')7 

81 

I.-) 

2 

10050 

30 

0  10 

81 

41 

18 

1H400 

30 

1  49 

81 

38 

5 

30 

1  44 

81 

37 

3 

20080 

30 

1  37 

81 

31 

0 

15930 

3.-) 

.-)8  50 

81 

28 

5 

3.-) 

")8  32 

81 

20 

57 

20340 

30 

3  39 

81 

25 

31 

18810 

3.-) 

r)7  41 

81 

10 

54 

21:)C)0 

3.3 

58  37 

81 

9 

17 

3'.»   -.'u 


Cami"  97.— .\ksi-. 

H .{5  41   41 

H.S.  A     .-r,  41  54 

H.S.  IJ     :{.-,  40  15 

H.S.  ('     :t.-,  ;!<»  17 


26 


S3 

50 

44 

H3 

i')i) 

28 

H4 

3 

.39 

147.-.0 

H4 

10 

48 

174.-)0 

84 

9 

4H 

10300 

H4 

0 

39 

141.-.0 

H.3 

.">.") 

2H 

1.3700 

H.3 

51 

19 

129(M) 

H3 

52 

10 

l:)050 

H2 

10 

37 

149.-.U 

Si 

4H 

47 

Hi 

4() 

32 

1()980 

Hi 

40 

.t'.l 

17140 

Hi 

4«) 

2."> 

10390 

vS6  Arriixn/x 


Hill  Stations  and  Peaks.       Latitude  N. 


U.S.  J)  3;-)  42  15 

PeiUc'iU  35  58  7 

„  30  35  50  31 

„  31  35  34  17 

„  3-2  35  52  41 

.,  33  35  44  17 

„  34  35  31  21 

„  35  35  30  57 

„  37  35  55  38 

,.  40  35  36  21 

..  43  35  31  55 

„  44  35  31  51 

,.  4H  35  29  33 

„  47  35  39  54 

„  48  35  53  1 

„     50  35  26  51 

C.\Mi>  98. 

B 

HS.  A 35  41  2 

H.S.  ]'. 35  40  21 

H.S.  (' 35  39  45 

H.S.  1)  35  41  17 

H.S.  E  35  38  55 

Peak  25  35  44  10 

.,  26  35  52  20 

„  27  35  51  3 

„  52  35  37  30 

,.  53  35  41  14 

.,  56  35  26  6 

„  57  35  59  49 

..  58  35  59  42 

..  59  35  59  19 

..  60  35  59  43 

,.  110  35  34  39 

Sp.  E.  of  42  (1) 35  39  24 

(2) 35  39  29 


C.XMP  90. 


U.S.  A 36  0  3 

H.S.  ]; 35  58  38 

H.S.  C 35  59  22 

Teak  67  35  39  23 

.,  68  35  43  17 

„  69  36  11  45 

..  70  36  11  31 


Longitude  E.  1 

Height. 

„ 

Kii-t. 

81  46  26 

1()890 

si  -21  '1-1 

204 -20 

HI  ;i3  51 

1S530 

Hi  48  44 

19790 

82  0  46 

'20170 

81  13  18 

'20170 

81  5  44 

2lH.-)0 

81  11  15 

21-270 

80  54  51 

81  45  0 

81  3H  15 

202H0 

81  37  4H 

20040 

81  23  30 

'20250 

81  51  12 

82  1  48 

19140 

81  25  21 

21040 

81  53  8 

17660 

81  52  51 

1H'250 

81  54  23 

1H150 

81  54  51 

17H90 

81  54  18 

1H160 

81  53  5H 

1H()'.I0 

81  50  50 

19690 

81  44  1 

19H80 

82  24  16 

21660 

81  55  13 

'20600 

82  19  9 

21'2'20 

81  39  22 

213'20 

81  39  2 

21H20 

81  39  7 

218'20 

81  42  10 

21020 

82  16  14 

21310 

82  25  23 

22810 

82  21  25 

22040 

82  31  55 

16100 

82  31  38 

15930 

82  34  3 

16140 

82  26  25 

22160 

82  29  34 

'20860 

82  20  9 

'20400 

82  25  41 

20310 

Arj'i:Xj)/x 


58; 


Hill  Stations  and  Peaks. 


Latitude  N. 


AMI' 
AMI' 

Ma 
AMI' 

I'c 

al 

71  .. 

72  .. 
7:!  .. 
74  .. 
7')  . . 

7t;  .. 

( 

1(11 

H. 

). 

S 

A 

H.S. 
Peak 

IJ 

41  .. 

<):i  .. 

(■>()  .. 

7H  .. 

7<)  .. 
-Cami 

( 

lOi 
11 
H. 

). 

\r 

OK 

IS'Ki. 

s 

A 

H.S. 
H.S. 
Peak 

ik  at 
Si  1 

C 

])  .. 

H2  .. 
k:;  .. 

H\  .. 

S.')  .. 

sc.  .. 
K7  .. 

L'(l«e  0 
5  (1).. 

f  Y 

eshil-Kul 

c 

IK 

r. 

H. 
H 

». 

s 

\ 

s 

15 

H.S. 

Pciik 

(• 

42  .. 

HK  .. 

<.l()  .. 

'.•2 

'.M  .. 

\H)   .. 

i)7  .. 

<)S  .. 

1 1  s 

1:;  2.S 

1:;  ;;i 

1 1  I 

l:!  4s 

:!;^  40 


LonKitiidc  I''. 


NJ  •.!.  I'.t 

H2  ;t()  2(> 

H2  40  1.-! 

Si  42  20 

82  4:5  11 

H2  yy  10 


H.iKlii. 

1. .  ■ 

•i():;;;o 

204'.)0 

2o:!so 

2o7<".o 

20:  wo 

20000 


ICvlSO 

;{.■) 

.")() 

2.") 

S2 

17 

0 

177SO 

36 

12 

-y-Z 

82 

;") 

2;-) 

21000 

;J5 

;i9 

IK 

82 

22 

1 

220110 

;!(•) 

12 

.')•.» 

82 

;> 

44 

218.-.0 

;;.") 

27 

:)4 

82 

4 

2:5 

2oo:!o 

•■J.") 

2:4 

1 

s] 

">7 

28 

21200 

loir.o 

.•;i 

.■)4 

;!.") 

si 

42 

1 

10000 

;;4 

.V2 

.-)4 

SI 

40 

.7.) 

172.')0 

:t4 

.V2 

49 

81 

42 

8 

17000 

;}-) 

22 

2 

81 

;{.-) 

.")<l 

221.-.0 

:!.") 

1.-) 

10 

SI 

.-)1 

4 

2()S.-.() 

:n 

a2 

I'.l 

si 

;;.". 

;>() 

2o;!70 

:i4 

."i2 

2s 

SI 

.".0 

20 

17040 

;!l 

r>i 

22 

81 

.'.0 

12 

17010 

.•14 

.')'.! 

2.') 

81 

.")2 

;!o 

IS  ISO 

.11 

.1.) 

17 

SI 

40 

•  !•< 

lOOUO 

;jl 

."jij 

11 

SO 

.VJ 

18 

!4 

.")S 

.".2 

81 

:.l 

2  s 

lsl'20 

!4 

.")2 

27 

81 

.")0 

2.-! 

1700)0 

il 

.V.» 

22 

81 

48 

;{.■. 

is:  (00 

t.-) 

;i8 

.">'.» 

82 

22 

10 

22700 

(.■) 

.•(4 

7 

82 

2:1 

4.! 

22:i.")0 

$■. 

12 

")<> 

82 

20 

.•io 

20(i;!0 

{-) 

12 

r,i 

82 

21 

48 

20100 

14 

40 

:\:\ 

82 

2.". 

<) 

20040 

!| 

14 

20 

82 

2;t 

10 

207  .")0 

!l 

i:t 

.-.;! 

82 

2;{ 

;u 

204'.10 

!.") 

14 

.-.1 

81 

4.-. 

•».» 

20010 

!.•) 

22 

:;i 

SI 

:>o 

10 

22070 

!.■) 

20 

4:; 

Si 

;t7 

10 

21'I10 

.vss 


.\rr/:\n/x 


Hill  Stations  iind  ^^•Hk^ 


Peak  U<»  

..    KM)  

..    10:5  

..    lot  

Camp  11'2. — Nkak    Haha  Hati'n 

B  

H.S.  A 

H.S.B 

H.S.  C 

Peak  M  

;■)")   

,.     64   

,.  105   

„   10()  

..   107   

..   Ill    

..   112  

Ca.mi'   IIG.— At  To   Pass. 

U.S.  A 

H.S.B     

Plain  Station  (' 

Peak  114 

..     116 

..     UK 

..     119 

CaMI'    120.  — ( lo.MUA/.. 

11 

U.S.  A 

U.S.  1!     

U.S.  (■ 

Peak  12.-) 

..     127 

..     12s 

..      120 

..     l:!0 

,.     1:11 

..     141 

Ca-MT  162.  — Kash(;ai:. 

B  

H.S.  A 

Ml.  Kunj,'ar  (hi^'hest  pk.) 

Mt.  Cliakkarakul,  K.  pk. 

W.  pk. 


Lalitud 

■  N. 

LongitiK 

!■•  K. 

Ocit^lit. 

Kcet 

.•!4  -A) 

0 

82 

37 

11 

17530 

;}4  -)! 

40 

82 

45 

45 

1.S7C.0 

;}4  40 

19 

82 

21 

46 

20260 

Wi)   ;5H 

55 

82 

23 

42 

22700 
16350 

35  ;{0 

24 

81 

52 

18 

1<)930 

35  20 

3 

81 

5() 

52 

17860 

35  2H 

24 

81 

53 

50 

1 7570 

35  35 

37 

82 

16 

34 

22190 

35  33 

11 

82 

13 

18 

20850 

35  38 

56 

82 

20 

45 

22070 

35  28  40 

81 

43 

43 

20950 

35  30 

48 

81 

45 

59 

20850 

35  34 

12 

81 

48 

51 

19830 

35  27 

39 

82 

4 

20 

20(t50 

35  23 

28 

82 

4 

59 

20110 

35  52  23 

81 

31 

7 

1 7580 

35  52  44 

81 

29 

51 

17420 

35  50 

1 

81 

28 

58 

llWilO 

35  58 

50 

81 

28 

32 

19320 

36  0 

8 

81 

39 

4 

21HUI 

36  1 

38 

81 

36 

58 

20280 

35  50 

2 

81 

30 

59 

18290 

37  32 

49 

75 

51 

1(J 

15110 

37  31 

11 

75 

44 

45 

l:)220 

37  36 

20 

75 

46 

23 

i:;9io 

37  43 

25 

75 

41 

53 

1()920 

38  12 

22 

75 

9 

19 

22240 

37  41 

48 

75 

12 

1 

37  38 

46 

75 

12 

15 

37  29 

38 

75 

33 

49 

18130 

37  28 

20 

75 

33 

50 

18210 

37  30 

38 

75 

54 

22 

18190 

39  32 

47 

75 

57 

22 

5120 

38  39 

26 

75 

24 

4 

23530 

38  50 

19 

75 

11 

19 

21480 

38  51 

49 

75 

8 

54 

22070 

//v7-;.\vv.v  389 


' 

Ki'ct. 

0  :5'2K  1 

24821=:= 

244(M)' 

<»  vir, 

227  SO 

12   14-7-2 

20722 

*»  :u»-4 

1.S711 

i)  2()() 

ISOdO 

(•()-(»i;j»INATi:s    OK    I'A.MIi;    I'llAKS. 


Ilt'f. 

Pan.'i"  ^■""'«  "f  »''•">-  Latitude  LonKitudo  jj^j^j^^ 

Chart. 


Tagharma    higliest   of ) 

8  Sp.  (identical  with  }  :?H  Ki  42- 

Muz  Tagh  Ata    .... 

Tagliarina  double  sp.  ...  ."is   14     ()•() 

l'aiuirr>h ;!7  :i:{  .')fil!t 

raniir6  h HI  2.S  124 

Taehdumbash  h ;{7  2:$     K-2 


*  As  coiTccted  by  Culdiiil  Wiilial)  in  Novoinhi-i-,  is'.lil. 
t  As  deteniiiiu'd  by  Captiiiu  Diiisy. 

1.  The  longitude  of  Camp  (V.)    (Kliotan)    lias   been    deduced    from 
Camp  07.     The  values  by  A.  and  C.  chronometers  being  79     'iH'  iV2 
and     79      r)H'    2"    respectively,    their    mean    has    been    adopted    as 
longitude  of  Camp  6:5.     The  probable  error  in  longitude,  neglecting 
tlie  probable  error  of  tlie  initial  longitude,  is  10  . 

2.  The  longitude  of  Camp  :57  (Kolkachi.  Yarkand)  from  Camp  120. 
through  Camps  124.  1154,  2().  29.  47.  and  8.').  was  found  to  be 
77  19'  24  ;  that  directly  from  (ami)  ^-**  uising  some  selected  rates) 
was  found  to  be  77  19  .").")  ;  but  from  Captain  Trotter's  station  in 
Yangi  Shahr  it  was  fovmd  to  be  77  19'  10'  :  the  last  has  been 
adopted  as  tlie  longitude  of  Camp  37.  Tlie  probable  error  in  longi- 
tude,  neglecting  the  probable  error  of  the  initial  longitude,  is  2  . 

i\.  The  dirt'erence  of  lieight  between  the  mark  at  edge  of  Ycsliil  Kul 
Lake  and  15  end  of  Camp  109  (wliicli  is  the  former  height  of  tlie  lake) 
is  ar)9  feet. 

4.  The  difference  between  Cump  (>.'!  nf  isuc  an<l  the  old  level  of  the 
lake  is  ;U57  feet. 


390 


iii;i(.ii'rs  oi'  I'Assi'.s. 


C'atii))  from 
wliifli  Hfi(,'lit 
was  (K'tliii'od. 


Niiiiu-  of  I'asR. 


H.'itjl.l. 


1 

7 
10 

1:5 
•22 
•26 
26 

;$i 

48 

43 

89 

92 

94 

96 

102 

107 

114 

117 

120 

123 

128 

129 

131 

134 

135 

139 

140 

140 

141 

144 

149 


Kilik 

Kuiijun'ib  

Ilisu.  or  Ilif^hsu 

Topa  

Kukalaii}^  

Pvek  

Tiiiii-,' 

Siinflal  Dawun  .. 

Arpa  Talak    

("hiiing  Tuiifj;     .. 

Atisli  

i'ass    

MUi  

I'ifhaniait      

'i'hoi'g     

Sarf,'on   

Sharnoz      

Sliamatagal  

Adam  Tuayinos 

Maiii:'ikul   

Yurghaiiak    

Fuivanak   

Yatiinko/.ik    

Kviraiuat    

Tarsi   

Kesiii 

Khandar     


Kcct. 

l"»Hr.O 

\w:a\ 
i(;7.'>») 

KHmO 
1. ").'.( K) 

l.")S()0 
i:!:,r,0 

16000 
1-2400 
Ki.'.OO 

I6r)00 
l.'.TOO 

17;{.')0 
17000 
i()Hr)0 
i7Hr)0 

160.')0 
KiliOO 
i:!(ioO 
14000 
ll.'iOO 

i.-noo 

12-)00 

l6o:.o 
I6.')r)0 
ir):)00 

14.SO0 

i.Mr,o 

14400 
V.VM)0 
12'.  (00 
16:)40 


APPKNinX    TI 


ZOOLOGICAL 

[From    Utr    I'uoiKKDiNiis  ok   tiik    /ooi.odicAL  Sucikty  ok    Londdn 
^[lu•c■h  (Jth.    I'.tOO.j 


On  a  small  Collection  of  Mammals  obtained  i)y  Captain 
Deasy  in  South  Chinese  Turkestan  and  Western  Tibet. 
By  G.  E.  H.  BAKKKTT-]IA^rILTON,  F.Z.S. 

The  small  collection  of  mammals  which  is  dealt  with  in  the 
present  paper  includes  only  16  specimens  of  ">  species,  uU  rodents. 
These  are,  however,  of  considerable  interest,  since,  apart  from  the 
localities  in  wliich  they  were  procured,  two  of  them,  a  Vole  and  u 
Jerboa,  which  I  iuive  named  resi)ectively  Micrnlnx  Imna  and  Dijms 
(irani/i,  belonf^  to  hitherto  undeseribed  forms.  A  third  is  the 
extraordinary  Kticliorcutrs  ndso,  described  by  .Mr.  \\  .  I..  Sclaterin 
1890  from  specimens  obtained  by  the  Hon.  Charles  Kllis  somewhere 
in  Eastern  Turkestan.  The  acquisition  of  examples  of  tiiis  species 
(and  penus)  adds  a  valuable  novelty  to  the  collection  of  mammals  in 
the  British  Museum,  whiliier  Capt.  Deasy's  specimens  have  found 
their  way. 

The  foUowiuf,'  is  a  list  of  tlie  specimens  :  — 

^fKiiioNKs    CHYi'ToKUiNrs    lUunford.    .1.    A.    S.    Henj^al.    ii.    \^.     lOS 

(iHTal. 

No.  99.11.."). 1.  ••.  Kara  S;ii.  Chine.se  Turkestan.  9tli  .Inly.  iS'.tS. 
altitude  9.."»U<)  ft. 

.v.»i 


3Q2  A/'/'RXn/X 

MU'ROTl'S    (ALTK'OLA)     lama.    sp.    MOV. 

..  vV  fi.  No.  97.1.21.;{  iS:  4.  25  miles  southeust  of  Lake  Arm-lio. 
\V.  Tibet,  altitude   Ui.OOO  ft..   Aiif,'ust.   1H97. 

y  No.  99.  ll.a.2.  "('aiiii>,  1H98,"  Cliinese  Turkestan,  altitude 
lO.nOO  ft.,  August  8th.  1898. 

Native  name,  '*  Such  Kun." 

Type.  no.  97.1.21.:5. 

Df.Hcriptiou.  External  characters  similar  to  those  of  .1/.  fttrachciji 
Thos.,  but  with  the  teetli  and  posterior  termination  of  the  palate 
very  like  those  of  M.  roijlci  Ogilvie.  Agrees  witli  M.  alliicinidii  True 
in  that  m.  i  has  8  salient  angles,  but  has  the  tail  far  sliorter. 

Diniensioufi  of  the  type  (in  niillim.)  : — Dried  xkiii.  Head  and 
body  115  ;  tail  12  ;  liiiid  foot  with  claws  19"")  ;  hind  foot  without 
cla\\s  H  ;  ear  1 1 . 

Skull  (damaged  posteriorly) — zygomatic  breadth  ll'.'i;  leiigtli  ol 
nasals  8*5 ;  palatal  length  14'i")  (from  posterior  termination  of  palate 
to  anterior  margin  of  incisors). 

The  specimen  y  api)ears  to  be  the  young  of  this  form. 

Dii'L's  DKAsvi,  sp.  nov. 

Ti/pe,  No.  99. 11. 5.3.  ?  ,  Nura,  Chinese  Turkestan,  7.500  ft., 
6th  October,  1818  (original  number  78). 

Desrrljtfidn.    In  external  apjicarance  resembles  D.  Io/IkxI  lUanford. 
but   the   colour  of   the   upper  surface  is  richer  and  not  so  brown 
the  exact  tint  being  somewhere  between  "  Ecru  drab  "   and  "  Fawn 
colour"  ■. 

Slkidl  resembles  that  of  7).  lagojms  Licht.,  but  the  teeth  are 
more  massive  and  tlieir  pattern  less  complicated. 

Jjiniriisiona  of  the  type — head  and  body  125;  tail  1(30;  Jiiiid 
foot  59;    ear  18.     (All  taken  from  the  dried  skin.) 

This  is  a  Aery  di.stinct  Jerboa,  with  no  very  near  known  ally, 
and  a  detailed  description  of  which  would  be  unnecessary.  I  have 
pleasure  in  connecting  it  with  tlic  name  of  its  discoverer. 

*  Hi<lf;way,  "Noinciiclaturc  of  Colours,"  1886,  pi.  iii. 


u'/'/:\/)/A'  ^^o^ 


Diprs,  sp.  inc. 


Nos.  99.11.'). 4  \-  ;').  2  males,  iinin.,  Kotaz    Laiigar,  near  Kliotaii, 
Turkestan,  4,700  ft.,  Htli  October,  1H98. 

The   iminaturit.v  of  tlu-sc  two  spcciiiions  prevents   their    satisfac- 
tory tleterniiiiatioii ;    they  iiiay  he  the  \  oun^'  of  I>.  ilntsiji. 


Edchoreutks  n.vso,  W.  L.  Seluter.  P.  Z.  S.  1H90,  p.  010. 

Nos.  9;5.11..").tj,  1  ii  H.  ?  .  Ak  I.anf,'ar  on  the  Yarkand-Khotan 
Road,  altitude  4.r)00  ft.,  :?rd  July.   189K. 

Native  name,  "  Saruk  Kuruk  "'  i"  lUown  Tail  "). 

The  original  specimens  of  KiirliornitrK  ntiHO,  although  known  to 
be  from  Eastern  or  Chinese  Turkestan,  had  no  e.\act  locality 
attached  to  them.  It  is  satisfactory  to  have  this  deficiency  supplied 
by  Captain  Deasy's  specimens.  The  Ak  Langar  is  a  Rest-house. 
The  specimens  were  obtained  in  the  night,  so  that,  although  Captain 
Deasy  states  that  the  animal  was  very  common,  he  is  unable  to  give 
any  details  as  to  its  habits. 


OcHOToNA  L.xDACKNsis,  Giintlier,  Ann.  iV   Mag.   Nat.  Hist.  ser.  4, 
xvi.  p.  231  (187;')!- 

No.    99.11.r>.9.     cf.    Yepal    Ungur,  Chinese   Turkestan.    i:i.O(K)  ft., 
22nd  July,    189S. 

No.  99. 11.'). 1(1  \  n.  two  fciiiulis.     Ditto,  ditto,  20th  Julv.  189S. 

No.    99.8.10.1.       Zad     Kulaii     Crgi.    Chinese     Turkestan,     altitude 
12.800  ft.,  2")th   December.   1897. 

No.  97.1.21.1.     2.")  miles  ^.K.  of   Lake   Aru  (ho.   \V.   Til)et. 

No.  97.1.21.2.     Ditto,  ditto. 


APrKNDlX    111 


BOTANIC  A  L 


lXTi;()|)C(T()i;V     NOT]'.     ON     r.OTANTCAL     COI.M'.C'riONS. 

]<_v  Edml'NL)  G.  I'AKKit.  F.L.S..  British  ^^usKL'M. 

The  plants  from  ("ii))t.  Deasy's  first  expedition  were  received 
at  Kew,  in  Febrnarv,  1897,  and  were  determined  by  members  of 
the    Herbarium    Staff. 

Among  the  more  interesting  of  the  plants  collected  on  tliis 
expedition  (the  TBotanical  collecting  on  tliis  jomniey  being  under 
the  charge  of  ^fr.  Arnold  Pike),  may  lir  mentioned  RaniinciiIiiH 
similis,  Hemsley  (figured  in  Hooker's  Iconos,  tab.  2586),  a  si^ecies 
closely  related  to  li.  involucatits,  Maxim,  and  Senecio  (Creiiuin- 
iho(Uii))i)  Dcaniji,  Hemsley  (Hooker,  Icones,  tab.  2587),  gathered 
at  Horpa  Cho  at  a  height  of  17,500  feet. 

On  the  second  ex|)edition,  C'apt.  Dcasy  connnenced  collecting 
in  Hunza  in  October,  1897,  and  continued  to  collect  in  Chinese 
Turkestan  and  Northern  Tibet.  The  plants  on  this  occasion  were 
determined  by  members  of  the  Staff  of  the  Botanical  Department 
of  the  Natural  History  Museum.  Among  the  more  interesting  may 
be  mentioned  Caraf/ana  friiteseens,  D.C.,  var.  tiirJanensiH,  Krasn, 
from  foot  of  Ak  Clialak  Tagh,  Kerian  Mountains,  previously  col- 
lected by  Przewalski  at  Chotan  ;  a  dwarf  Potentillu,  near  Aksu. 
whicli  I  was  at  first  inclined  to  consider  as  a  new  species,  but  is, 
perhaps,  only  an  unnamed  montane  variety  of  the  very  polymor- 
phic and  widely  spread  P.  aericca.  Linn.  ;  Lactuca  (Brachyrhampus) 

394 


.im-xn/x  395 

Deasj/i,  S.  Moore,  from  Aksu,  a  ver.v  remarkiil)Ic  species  bearing 
an  extraordinary  likeness  to  a  Crepis  of  tlie  section  (llonieratie 
(Mr.  Moore  states  the  resenil)lance  extends  even  to  tlie  partial 
union  of  the  involucral  leaves,  and  that  its  true  affinity  was  nc^t 
suspected  until  the  achenos  came  under  examination)  ;  I'oliitjoinini 
DcaHi/i,  Rendle, "  a  member  of  Meisner's  section  Amblyjjonon  from 
Northern  Tibet  ;  Allium  consangnineiim,  Kunth,  var.  roHrnm, 
Kendle,'-  from  Sarok  Tuz  Valley;  Festuca  ruhra,  L.,  var.  rnhimfa, 
Rendle,="  from  Shiran  Maidan  Hunza ;  Fratnra  Drasi/i,  Hendle/-' 
allied  to  /''.  sihirira   Hackel.   fiom  the   Plateau  near   I'olu. 

It  is  impossible,  in  a  brief  sunnnary,  to  refer  to  nearly  all  the 
points  of  botanical  interest  afforded  by  the  collections.  Take,  for 
example,  the  first  plant  occurring  in  each  list :  Clnnatis  orirutdlis, 
Linn.,  perhaps  the  most  widely  distributed  of  the  known  species 
of  the  genus.  The  type  was  figured  by  Dillenius  in  the  Hortus 
Elthamensis,  tab.  119,  from  a  specimen  brought  from  the  East 
by  Tournefort,  thus  showing  the  plant  was  known  in  this  country 
in  1782.  Many  varieties  have  been  described,  as  it  is  an  ex- 
tremely varialile  plant,  Var.  (iciififolui,  Hk,  f.  &  T.,  is  mentioned 
(in  Henderson  and  Hume's  "Lahore  to  Yarkand  ")  as  common  in 
Yarkand  and  in  the  ravines  above  Sanju,  Var,  tatigutica.  Max. 
(Bot.  Mag,,  tab,  7710)  was  collected  by  Capt.  Deasy  on  his  first 
expedition ;  and  on  the  second  expedition,  at  Chaka  a  plant  was 
collected  which  is  intermediate  between  sub-sp,  tibetica,  O.  Kuntze 
and  var.  tatu/iiticd.  Max,  A  very  interesting  find,  of  possibly  far- 
reaching  significance,  is  that  of  a  plant  which  was  collected  at 
Aksai  Chui,  near  Yepal  Ungur,  and  was  determined  by  Dr,  Hendle 
to  be  Zoxtcra  uiarimt,  L.  Tliis  maritime  species  occurs  here  at 
an  altitude  of  16,.')0()  feet.  In  a  certain  number  of  cases,  addi- 
tional information  is  afforded  by  the  collection  in  regard  to  our 
previous  knowledge  of  the  geographical  range  of  tiie  Central 
Asiatic  species.  The  details  can  be  seen  in  the  subjoined  lists,  and 
as  the  Flora  of  Cliincse  Turkestan  especially,  is  but  poorly  repre- 
sented in  our  National  Herbaria,  collections  from  this  region  are 
of  great  value.  The  Flora  of  the  ct)untry  traversed  by  Capt. 
Deasy  is  not  a  rich  one ;  in  point  of  mere  number  of  species  it 
cannot  in  any  way  compare  with  that  of  the  i-ountries  to  the 
South,  East,  and  West,  We  have  in  the  South,  India  with  a 
Flora  which  has  been  recently  computed  at  l;5.(M)0  species  ;  fi-on> 
the  collections  of  the  Abbe  Delavay,    l>r.    ilcmy.  and  Mr,  Thonuis 

*  Descriptions  of  tlnsr  jilunts  will  lie  fouml  in  tlie  ■iDitninl  of  Hot  an  if, 
1000.    p.    1'2,H.    \-,  . 


39^ 


I /'/'/■:. y/)/.\' 


Hancock  \vc  know  tlie  West  of  Cliina  also  to  hv  ricli.  The  eovnitry  ti> 
the  west  of  Chinese  Turkestan,  Turkestan  proper,  has  been  carefully 
explored  by  the  Russians — it  has  been  found  to  be  richer  than  Chinese 
Turkestan,  but  the  Flora,  whicli  was  bepun  by  Regel,  lias  only  been 
completed  as  regards  a  small  number  of  Natural  Orders.  Perhaps 
the  most  careful  comi)arison  of  Central  Asiatic  Floras  was  that 
made  by  the  late  Dr.  Maximowicz  in  a  paper  whicii  appeared  in 
the  "  Hulletin  du  Congres  international  de  botanique  et  d'horticidturc 
A  St.  IVtersbourg,  1884."  Tiie  Mongolian  Flora,  wliicii  includes 
that  of  Chinese  Turkestan,  he  then  estimated  at  1628  riianerogams 
and  Vascular  Cryptogams,  Compositic,  Leguminoste,  and  (iramincu' 
being  the  most  largely  i-epresented  Natural  Orders. 

We  cannot  conclude  without  congratulating  ("apt.  Deasy  on  the 
collections  he  has  made  in  a  country  which  is  so  little  known 
botanical] V,  and  which  furnisiies  an  interesting  link  of  connection 
between  the  Floras  of  the  countries  lying  to  the  North,  South, 
East,   and   \\'est.  which  are  comparatively  well  k)io\vn. 


CAI'TAIN    DEASY'S   FIRST    EXPEDITION    TO    ■IIHI'.T.    isuo. 


Collected  l)y  Mi;.  Aunoij)   I'ikk. 

IDKNTIKIKI)    AT    THK    liOVAL    GARDENS,    KKW. 


DICOTYLEDONS. 
rOTA'I'ETAL.'E. 

No.  Name. 

1  Clematis  oi-ientalis,  Linn..  \ar.  tangutica, 

MiLiitii. 

2  Ranunculus  similis,  Hnnsl. 

;-$  ..  tricuspis,  M<t.rini. 

4  ,,  Cymbalaria.',  I'ur.<sJi  ... 

5  .,  pulchellus,  C.  A.  Mei/cr 

6  .  ,,  lobatus,  Jarquein.     ... 

7  .,  involucratus,  Mosim. 

8  Corydalis  Hendersoni,  Hr/;(.s7. 

9  Parrya  lanuginosa,  if oo.V. /.(/•  T//o?;/.s.   ... 
10         Cheiranthus  liimalayen.sis,  Ccunh. 


Place 


Can 


Altitiulo. 

•e. 

Kect. 

11 

1  1  Kill 

l:; 

iC.lidO 

2:; 

17000 

10 

If;  100 

29 

1()20(J 

m 

16H()0 

10 

10400 

:! 

17100 

12 

17000 

22 

17:ioo 

A/'r/ixn/x 


597 


No. 

11 

VI 

l:j 

14 

1.-) 

\(\ 

17 

IS 

V.) 
20 
21 
'11 

'2;j 

24 
2") 
26 
27 

2H 
2U 

;!o 
;ii 
32 

;!4 


oH 


10 

II 

42 
4:1 
44 

4.-. 
4() 
47 


Naiuf. 
Alyssuiu  canescens,  DC.   ... 
l)ral)ii  iilpiiia,  Lirui. 

\iir.  iilgidii.  luifil 
Sisyinbriuin  huiiiile,  ('.  A.  Mri/tr 
Eutreuui  ?  Przewalskii.  Muj-ini. 
Christolea  crassifolia,  Camh. 
IJniya  uniHora,  Hook.  f.  ./•  Thomn. 

sinensis,  Hoii-sl. 
Capsella  Thonisoni,  Hook./. 
Dilophia  siilsa.  TIioiiis. 
Lyclinis  ai)etala,  Linn. 
Arenaria  nmscifonuis,  W'al-I. 
,,  Stracheyi,  Eihjviv. 

Myriearia  prostrata,  Hook.  f. 
Therniopsis  inHata.  ('(unh. 
Astragalus  sp. 


Oxytropis  niicTopliylla.  DC 


\  iir.  c'latioi- 


•^P 

rotcntilla  fruticosa,  Liiin... 

sericea,  L//i;^.  var.  polyschista, 
Lclini. 
.,         sericea. -/>/////.,  var. 
Chaniit'i'lioclos  sabulosa,  liuni/r   ... 
Saxifni^^a  jiarva,  Hmtnl.    ... 
Seduin  Khodiola.  1>('. 

tibcticuin.//o()/r.  /■.  <(•  Tlnnns..  \ar. 
Stracheyi,  Clarke    ... 
Selimnn  striatum.  /^f'//^/(.  ... 

<i.i.Muri-:r.u..K. 

Aster  l>(>u<Tii.  Ili  ntxi. 

til)eticus,  Uxnk.  f.    ... 
Leontopodiuni  alpininu.  ('<».v,«(. 

Tanacetuni  fruticulosuni,  Lrdilt 

tilx'ticiini.    Hook.  f.  <l'   'I'lmms. 
Artemisia    Wrlll.vi,    llniisl.   ,(■   //.   }f.    \\\ 
I'larson  (ined.) 

salsoloides.  Willd. 
.,  maeroeepliala.  J(i<t/iitin. 

Senecio  goringensis,  //r/;/.v/. 


riace. 

AltitiKlu. 
Ffot. 

(.'amp  26 

161(X) 

2.". 

ItllOO 

10 

KilOO 

:50 

l.ViOO 

c. 

170(H) 

Ill 

ir)4(H) 

2-'  > 

170(M) 

:!2 

lt)H(MJ 

»i 

17(MM) 

;52 

KiHOO 

m 

lOlKH) 

.,        14 

1(V2()0 

(') 

17000 

."! 

17100 

t) 

17000 

..        41 

14400 

•  ) 

17100 

(5       170(X) 


24 


i(;7(M) 

KISOO 
17000 

17100 
1()200 


1!  17000 

1!  17000 

.•i7  l.".(XH) 

1.-.  lCi200 

2:i  17(HX) 

:i7  1  .">i  M  H » 

2<.»  11)200 


39B 


irriixnix 


No. 

48 

40 

."»() 

51 

52 

53 

54 

55 

56 


5K 
59 
60 
61 

62 
63 
64 
65 
66 
67 
68 
69 
70 
71 
72 

7y 

74 


Niiiiii'. 

Senecio  Deasyi,  Hvinxl. 
Saussiirea  bnicteiita,  7M«r. 

subulatii.  Chirkc 

Kuiitljiana,  Clarke 

t,'luii(luli;,'t'ra,  Srli.-Iiiji. 

sorocepliala.  Hook.  f.  <(•  Thonin 

Thoroldi,  Hcm>il. 

Aster.  Hrnml.   ... 
Crcpis  sorocepliala,  Heinnl. 

riexuosa,  Clarke 


r 


Taraxacum  laiiceolatuu 
bicolor,  DC. 
Aiulrosace  Chaina-jasine.  Host.  var.  coro 
nata,  W<(tt    ... 

tapete.  Mau-iiu. 
Gentiana  Thonisoni.  Clarke 
tenella.  Fries 
,.         aquatica,  Linn.  ... 

,,         huuiilis,  Aiferen 

Pleurogyne  brachyanthera.  Cl<trk< 
Microula  tibetica.  Maxim. 
Scroiilmlaria  sp. 

Pedicularis  loiif,'irioru.  L'udolji/t    .. 
choilanthifolia,  Sehreii 
Lagotis  dccuiiibens,  liupr. 
Nepeta  longibracteata,  Jieiitli. 
DracocepliuliiDi  licteroijliylluiii.  Ilrulli 


Can 


llKf. 

p   12 
.•12 


i:{ 
12 


.Mtittulo. 
Kfft. 

17000 
IC.SIM) 
10900 

16600 
17000 


10   16400 


II 

1  IIIMI 

2)i 

lOluo 

6 

17000 

;{o 

16900 

2(i 

ICKH) 

i:. 

1()2(M) 

10 

16100 

;{2 

1680(J 

;{2 

16800 

:57 

l.'.OOO 

yo 

1(1900 

2y 

17000 

;{7 

15000 

29 

16200 

12 

17000 

29 

16200 

1.-) 

16200 

.AI'KTAL.K. 


75  Salsola  coUiiia.  P(/Z/(^/.<* 

76  Rheum  spiciforme,  Roijle  ... 

77  Euphorbia  tibetica.  Boins. 

78  Urtica  hyperborca,  Jticqiiem. 

79  Ephedra  disstachya,  Linn... 


15       16200 


27       16700 


.MONOCOTYLEDONS. 

80  Allium  senescens.  Linn.  var. 

81  .1  uncus  Thomsoni,  Biichen. 

82  Kobresia  schunoides,  Boeck. 


26 
17 


10100 

leyoo 


Arriixnix  yjo 

Altitude. 

Ko.  Xauif.  I'lacf.  Feet. 

H;J  Kobresia  Sargentiana,  Hi  uml.      ...  ...  Cainp  17  — 

H4  C'are.x  incurva,  Lirjhf/.        ...         ...  ...  ..       —  — 

8.")  ,,       rif^ida,  (iooden.        ...          ...  ...  ..       —  — 

86  .,      Moorcroftii,  Falconer  ij-  BoofI  ...  ..         -  — 

87  I'ciinisetuin  Haccifhiin,  (Iri-ieh.     ...  ...  ..  — 

88  Stipa  orientalis,  'J'rin.        ...  ...  ...  ..       —  — 

89  ..     purpurea.  (Irintb.     ...  ...  ...  ..       —  — 

90  Deyeuxia  compacta.  .V«N/()  ...  ...  .,       —  — 

91  Diplachne  Thorokli.  .S7(fy-/'  —  — 

92  Poa  attenuata,  Trin.  ...          ...  ...  .,       —  — 

90  Ati'opis  distans,  Griiiib.  (forma  nana)  ...  ..       —  — 

94  Festuca  valesiaca.  Svhleirlt.  ...  ...  .,       10  10100 

95  Elyinus  sibiricus,  Linn.    ...  ...  ...  ..       —  — 

90  ,,       junccus,  Fi-icli.     ...         ...  ...  ..       —  — 


ENUMKIJATION     OF     PLANTS     COLLECTED     ON     SECOND 
EXPEDITION,     1897-98-99. 


DICOTYLEDONS. 

rOLYI'ETAL.T'J. 

J5y    Edmlni)    (i.    IUker,   F.L.S. 

.Mtitiiilu 
No.  Name.  Loculit\'.  Fci>t. 

1  Clcniatisorientalis.  L.var.  l)i't\vi'fn  ) 

sul>-sp.  tibctica.  O.  Kuntzf.  and         C'liaka    ...  ...       OTtH) 

var.  tangutica.  Ma.v.  ...  ) 

2  llannneulus  ("vnibaluria.  Pursli 

;j  Kanunculus  piilcliollus.  ('.  A.  Mcvci 

4  Delphinivnn  sp. 

')  Berberis  ink'j^H'rriiMa.  Hui-^'i- 

6  Hvpecoun  loptorarpniii,  Ilk.   f.  \  f 

Tboins \ 

7  Clieininthus  hiiniiliivi'iiKis.Ciiinl). '.'...     (';inip  Ktl 

8  Al.vsiunn  cani-scens.  DC. 

9  Sis.vinbriiini  huinilc.  ('.  .\.  Mover 

10  Drava  unitlora.  Ilk.  f.  iS:  Tlionis. 

11  lirassiea  Napiis.  Linn. 

12  Malcohuia  Africanu.  Iv.  I'.r... 
l;}  CapscUa  Thoiusoni.  Ilk.  f.    ... 


Kart,'lialik 

4  :.()() 

Yepal  I'ngm-    ... 

14s.-,0 

Aksu      

l.")7lK) 

near  Kara  Tar<^az 

4;UM) 

Cliaka    ... 

70(H) 

Pohi       

8;{(H) 

(amp  lol 

1('>1(HI 

Ki/il  (hup 

1  ;.(•.(  M) 

Yepal  rn{,'ur    ... 

UH.-,(» 

SarokTuz  \'allev 

1. •{.".(  H) 

l{(i;,'liaz   Langar 

.■).■)()() 

Chaka    ... 

(•)7(H) 

Aksu      

l.-)700 

400 


.im-xn/x 


Altitiido 

N... 

Nhiiu-. 

Locality. 

Foet. 

14 

Lepidiuiu  rudcrale,  Linn. 

I'olu        

10300 

15 

Dilopliiii  salsa  Ilk.  f.  \-  Thoins. 

San.kTuz  Valley 

Aksu      

Shor  Ivul 

13500 
15700 
14X00 

16 

Capparis  spinosa,  Linn. 

llunza  ^'alley  ... 

0400 

17 

Silene  conoidea,  Linn. 

Polu       ...      '    ... 

8200 

18 

Lychnis  apetala,  Linn. 

i 

Shiran      Maidun, 

Hunza 
near  Aksu 

13000 
16000 

19 

Lepyrodiclis  holosteoides.  Linn. 

I'olu       

8200 

'20 

Arenaria  uiusciforniis.  Wall... 

Aksu 

15700 

21 

Montia  fontana,  Linn. 

Taghdumbash, 
I'amir 

14000 

22 

Taniavix  Pallasii,  Des.  f. 

Khotan... 
near  Polu 

4500 
8200 

23 

Myricaria  prostrata.  Ilk.  f.  i.V:  Thon 

us. 

Shor  Kul 

15000 

24 

Iveauniuria  Kashgarica,  Kupr.  var. 

I 

Tolan   Khoja 

Przewalskii,  Max.  ex  descript. 

s 

Valley 

11000 

25 

Reaumuria  soongorica.  Max. 
( Hololachne  soongorica, Ehrcnb.  j 

i 

near  Sorgak 

7400 

26 

Xitnu-ia  Schoberi,  Linn. 
j»             »)             >) 

Kuyek    ... 

Polu       

Kirian  Mts. 
Yulgan  Bulok  ... 

9700 
8300 
8300 
7600 

27 

Zygophyllum  Fabago.  Linn. 

nr.  Kara   Targa/. 

4300 

28 

Zygopliylluiu   llosowii,    15unge  e.\ 
descript. 

'\ 

near  Sorgak 

7400 

2<) 

Geranium  collinuni,  Stepli.  foriua 

Camp  102 

16400 

;)(j 

Medicago  lupulina,  Liini. 

Polu       

8300 

:51 

Caragana  sp.   . . . 

Khotan 

4500 

32 

Caraganafrutescens,  DC,  var.  tur- 

} 

At    foot    of    Ak 

fanesis,  Ki'asn. 

s 

Chalah  Tagh 

8300 

33 

Sphierophysa  salsula.  DC.    ... 

near  Polu 
Tugrok  Langar 
Yulgan  Bulok  . . . 

8^00 
7000 
7600 

34 

Astragalus  alpinus,  Jjiini.     ... 

Polu       

near  Kara  Sai  ... 

H200 
10500 

35 

Astragalus  sp.             

Plateau  nr.  Polu 

10300 

u           »i 

Kara  Sai 

9500 

36 

.1         ,, 

Plateau  nr.  Polu 

10300 

37 

Astragalus  strictus,  Graham 

near  Aksu 

16500 

38 

Astragalus  Thomsonianus,  Benth. 

Sarok  TuzA'alley 

13500 

39 

Astragalus  tibetanus,  ]3enth. 

Yayek    ... 

9700 

J/VVi'.WV.V  401 

Altitude-. 

No.                      Name.                                                                      Lfx-iility.  Ffi't. 

40  Oxytroi>is  tatarica.  ('iiiiil)css.           ...  Sarok  Tu/ Valley  IMIKK) 

...  Ki/il  ("hup       ...  1".(M)0 

41  ().\ytropis  cliiliophylla,  Rovlo  forma  Sarok  TuzValicy  IM.'jOO 

42  liathvrus  sativus,  Linn.        ...          ...  near  Polu          ...  k;S(K) 

4;-}         Tn(li<,'ofera  sp.  ?           ...          ...          ...  Tiij,'rok  Langar  KM) 

44         Primus  tomentosa,  Thunb.  ...         ...  Kliotan              ...  4.")()0 

4r>         Prumis  (lomt'stica,  Linn,  forma       ...  Kliotaii              ...  4.'i()0 

46  rotentilla  bif urea,  Linn Polu       H2()0 

, Plateau  nr.  Polu  10:500 

Sarok  Tu/.Vallcy  13(KX) 

.„         ,,  ,      ,.„  ...  (  Shiran     Maidan, 

47  Potentula      sericea,     Lnm.,     var.  -           ^j  i.^nnn 

/           llunza           ...  l.sOOO 

Potentilla    sericea,     Linn.,      var.  )  t           v       1  nmn 

,                        1       1  ■  i       r    1        >      f  Kurani  It' pe-lnnn  1000 
(near  var.  polyschista,  Lehm.)     )                          ' 

4H         Potentilla  sericea,  Linn.  var.            )                 .,  la-Art 

,,         .                '  ...                              -  near  Aksu         ...  looOO 
J 'easy  1  var.  no  v.                               ) 

49         Itosa  xanthina,  Lindley         ...          ...  Cliaka    ...          ...  7000 

■>()         Chamterhodos  sabulosa  Bunge        ...  Yepal  Ungur    ...  loOOO 

.,  ..     -f  TT-       I        T  •  (  Sliiran    Maidan. 

.)1          Saxifraga  Hn'cuius,  Lnm.      ...           <           jj  tjaaa 

^                                                  I          Hunza           ...  loOOO 

r)2         Seduni  quadrifidum.  Pall.     ...          ...  Sarok  Tuz Valley  liJ.JOO 


GAMOPETAL.'E. 
]iy  Si'KNCKK  Le  M.  Moork.  ]5.St'..  I'.L.S. 


No. 

Name. 

Locality 

Altitude. 
Feet. 

r)3 

Aster  heteroclia-ta,  Pth. 

near  Camp 

94  . 

..      ir.000 

rA 

Aster  lioweri,  Hemsl. 

Camp  100 

.     i.")():io 

.o") 

Calimeris  altaica,  Nees. 

Camp  102 

.      1()4()0 

;")() 

Erigeron  unitlorum,  Liim.  var. 

\ 

Aksu      ... 
Camp  100 

..  l.")T00 
1  .■)C>00 

•  Potriililta  nrriffd,  Linn.,  var.  Diusiji,  liak.  til. 

IManta  ca-spitosa.  Caules  l)n'ves  graciles  crcrti  vcl  adsccndcntes.  Folia 
riulicalia  pinnata,  foliolis  a|)i)ro\iinatis  parvis  sininnis  niajoribiis  reliipiiis 
ilft-n'sccntihns  oblonf^^is  vt-l  ovato-ol)lon{,'is  lohatis  vol  {^rossc  sornitis,  folia 
caiilinia  di^itatim  IJ-.O  folialata. 

Hal).  Chinese  TiU'kcstan,  near  .\ksii  in  tlie  Kwen  Lun  Kan;,'c.  .\lt.  l(t,r>(X)  ft. 
In  Hower  .Iiily'2l),  1H<)H. 

A  dwarf  plant,  witli  radical  leaves  2  .'<  cm.  long.  Leaflets  small,  siibsessile, 
green  above,  white  tomentoae  helow ;  terminal  leaHet  5-ti  mm.  Ioiik-  Pediiiieles 
1-flowered.  I'etals  5,  yellow  +  ."i  mm.  long.  Nearly  allied  to  P.  seiicea,  Liini. 
var.  1  dasyphylla,  Leliniunn,  Rev.  I'otentill,  p.  31  (^  P.  dasyphylla,  Punge). 

27 


403 


Arriixn/x 


r)8 

".9 
60 
61 
62 
63 
64 

6') 

66 

67 

68 

69 

70 
71 

72 

73 

74 
75 
76 

77 

78 

79 
80 
81 

82 


83 
84 


Niiini'. 
Looiito[)odiuin  alpiiiuiii.  Cass. 

Lebntopodiinn    alpimini,    Cass. 

(small  mountain  form) 
Pulicaria  salviii'folia,  ]}f,'e.    ... 
Artemisia  vulp;aris,  Linn.  var. 
Artemisia  minor,  Jacq. 
Artemisia  sp.  ?  (very  yomig) 
Artemisia  desertoriuu,  Spi-en<i;. 
Tanacetum  tibeticum,  Hook.  f. 

Thoms. 
Saussurea  glanduligera,    Schz. 

Saussurea  siibiilata,  Clarke 

Saussurea    Aster,    Hemsl "? 

(specimen  very  ^-oung) 
Saussurea  Thoroldi,  Hcmsl. 

Saussurea  Thomsoni,  Clarke 

Saussurea  Kunthiana,  Clarke 
Saussurea  bracteata,  Dne.  ... 

]}arkhausia  flexuosa,  DC. 

DC.     v: 


Locality. 
^'alley   of   Talde 
KolSu 


AHiliKlr. 
Koet. 

13000 


'1 

i 
\ 


Barkhausia     flexuosa, 

(small  form)  ...  ...  ) 

Taraxacum  officinale,  Wigg. 
Taraxacum  officinale,  Wigg.  var.   ... 

Taraxacum  bicolor,  DC. 

Launa-a  sp.  ?   (specimen    imperfect) 

Chondrilla  sp.  ?  (specimen  without  ) 

flowers)    ...  ...  ...        ....  \ 

Mulgedium  tataricum,  DC. 
Lactuca  Deasyi,  S.  Moore   ... 
Scorzonera     sp.    (specimen 

young) 


n    very  | 
Androsace  Chama'jasme,  Host        ] 


Androsace  tapete,  Maxim.   ... 


Androsace  microphj'lla,  Hook.  f. 
Glaux  raaritima,  Linn. 


SarokTuzYalk'v     KJ.lOO 


Atabad 

near  Kilik  Pass 
Kizil  Clnip 
Tt)lan  Khoja     ... 
Kizil  Cliup 

Sarok  Tuz  Valley 

Kizil  Chup 

At    Tui.    Sarok 

Valley 
near  Camp  94  ... 
Camp  110,    near 

Yeshil  Kul    ... 
Aksu 
At    Tui,     Sarok 

Valley 
Sarok  Tuz  Valley 
Aksu 
Atabad     Hunza 

Valley 

near  Camp  94  ... 

Hills  nr  Kara  Sai 
near  Camp  94  ... 
Shor  Kul 

Tolu       

Takla  Makan,  nr. 

Kara  Targaz 
Bogliaz  Langar 
Aksu      

near  Polu 


TdOO 

1 ;!()(){) 

l.")()UO 

8100 

laGOU 

13000 

loGOO 

1()200 
16000 

16800 
15700 

16200 
13500 
15700 

7600 

16000 

10500 

16000 

14800 

8300 

4300 

5500 

15700 

10300 


Sarok  Tuz  Valley 

13000-13500 
Hills   near  Kara 

Sai  ...  about  10500 
Sarok  Tuz  Valley 

between 

Camps  86  &  87  12000 
near  Camp  94  ...  16000 
Khotan 4500 


■]rrr.xni.\' 


403 


No.  Name. 

86  Statice  aurea,  T.inn.  ... 

87  Cynanchuiii  acutuin,  Liiiii. 

88  Gentiana  aqnatica,  Linn. 

89  Pleinogvne  caiintliiaca,  Griseb. 

90  Plourogyne  difVusa,  Maxim. 

91  Sweitia  petiolata,  lioyle.  \ .ic. 

92  Mici'oula  tibetica,  Muxini.    ... 

93  Convolvulus  arvensis,  Linn.  \ 

94  Lycium  turconianicuni,    Fiscli.  &  } 

Mey S 

95  Doclai'tia  oricntalis,  Linn.  ...  \ 


96 

97 

98 
99 

100 
101 
102 

103 

104 


Pedicularis  alashanica,  Maxim.       ] 

Pedicularis  abrotanifolia,  !\r]>. 
Pedicularis  (Ederi,  Vahl 
Pedicularis    sp.  ?    (specimen    too  ^ 

younf;  to  determine)  ...  ) 

Plielypiea  calotropoides,  Walp. 
Lagotis  decumbens.  Pupr.  ... 
l)racocei)liHluni     lietcropliyllum,    i 

Pth ...  \ 

Plantago    tibetica    Hook.    f.    iV      | 


Locality. 

Altitude. 
Feet. 

near  Polu 

H300 

near  Sorgak 

7400 

near  Gircha, 

Hunza  Valley 

H900 

near  Cani[)  i»4 

KiOOO 

Aksu 

ir)700 

Aksu 

l.".70() 

llunza  Valley  .. 

1:5000 

Aksu      ...      '  .. 

ir,700 

Camp  100 

loGOO 

Camp  102 

16400 

Polu       

H300 

near  Polu 

8300 

Yulgan  Bulok  .. 

7600 

TolanKlioja     .. 

8100 

Outskirts     of 

Kliotan 

4.->00 

Sand}'    plateau 
W.  of  Polu  .. 

10300 

Aksu      

15700 

near  Camp  94  .. 

16000 

Plateau    near 

Polu 

10300 

near  Miidji 

4400 

Aksu    ... 

15700 

Thorns. 
Plantago  ovata,  Forsk. 


s 


Sarok  Tu/,  Valley 

I'olu       ... 

I'OIU  ... 


13000 

S300 
S300 


No. 


APETALM. 
Bv  A.   r..   ItKNi.i.K,   M.A..  D.Sr. 


AUitti.li'. 
liOfiilitv.  l''oet. 


tr.-       /.i              T           11            I  •                    S  Kara  Sai 

10;)       (  henoiiixlunn   alhuni,    J,niii.              -^  ,,  , 

*                                                     (  Polu 

106       Eurotia  ceratoides,  C.  A.  Mey.       \  Northern    Tibet. 

•^          /  Shor  Kul 

^r\r•       t^     ■                       1              i-  1-                 f  .\tabad     Hunza 

10<        Corispernunn     livssopitohum.          |  ,.  ,, 

T  ■                        ■                                 -  N  allev 

Lmn.            ...          ...          ...            \  ,,  , 

I  loin 

(Very  conunon  in  smul  in  lied  of  Hunza  ^'alley.) 


7600 
H;500 


404 


//V'A.WVA' 


N.I. 
lOH 

lU'.t 

110 


Hiilogotoii  t^lomeratus.  ('.  A.  Mcy.  [ 
Polvgdiiiiiii  uvirulaii'.  Linn, 
rolvgonuii)  sibiricuni,  J.uxni. 


Allitiidc. 
Kofiilily.  Kt-et. 

\tabad    Huuza 
Valley  ...       7600 

S      Northern    Tibet, 
\  Camp  101     ...     UnOO 

I       Vci)al     Unt,'ur. 
)  Kiria  River  ...      Ki'iUO 

111  Polygonum    Deasyi,    Rendle,    sp.  )      Northern    Tibet, 

nov ^     \         Camp  UV-i      ...     !.')()( )0 

112  rolygoniim,  SI),  without  Mowers      ...     Chaka    ...  ...       (3700 

(Thin  ropes  are  said  to  be  made  from  this  plant.) 

(      In   sandy  water- 
11:5       Calli<,'onum  polvgonoides,  Linn.     -'  less     desert, 

(  Nura 6800 

(Native  name  "  Chekundo  "  (Chakandar).     An  interesting  north- 
easterly   extension    of    the    distribution    of    this    species    known 
hitherto  from  Egypt,  Syria,  Persia,  Punjab  and  Scinde.) 

114  Eheagnus  angustifolia,  Linn.  var.  )       ,.,     ,  ..^n 

orilntalis,  Schleet }      ^^'^°*'"^  -       ^^^^^ 

(Native  name  "  Jigdachichik."     Common  throughout  Chinese 
Turkestan). 

115  Euphorbia  tibetica,  Boiss Sarok  Tuz  Valley     13000 


No. 

116 


117 


118 


119 
120 
121 


monoc()tvli;dons. 

By  A.  B.  Rendle,  M.A.,  D.Sc. 

Name.  Locality. 

Asparagus  verticillatus,  Linn.        ...     Polu     ... 
(Native  name  "  Ojim.") 

Allium  oreoprasum,  Schrenk  j      ^^l^^^^    ''''''' 

(Native  name  "  Atchku  Yowa.") 
Allium    eonsanguineum,    Kunth,   )       o       1  m      ,.  n  i.,«^^ 

var.  roseum,  Rendle,  ^ar.  nov.    }      ^^'""^  ^"^  ^  ^"^-V     ^'^^OO 
(Indistinguishable  from   the  species  except  by  its  rose-coloured 
flowers  ;  those  of  the  species  are  described  as  golden-yellow). 

.     Aksu 15800 

[      Northern    Tibet, 


Altitude. 
h\vt. 

8;-300 


10300 


Juncus  membranaceus,  Royle 
Triglochin  palustre,  Linn. 


Zostera  uiarina,  Linn. 
(A  very  interesting  find.) 

122  Carex  Moorkroftii.  Falc.  ... 

123  Stipa  purpurea,  Criseb.    ... 


near  Camp  94  16000 
Aksai  Chui  near 

Yepal  Ungur  14850 
Shor      Kul, 

Northern  Tibet  15000 
Northern    Tibet, 

Camp  100     ...     15700 


ipp/ixnix 


405 


Altitiulc. 
Feet. 


No.                      NniiK'.  Locality. 

124       Stiiia    si)lcncleiis.  Triii.   (=   Stiuii  )  ,-        ... 

',,   .  '    rp  •     .                              '       •  Kiua  Sill 
altiuca,  Trin.)     ...          ...          ...   ) 

I'io       Stina  SI).    (Insiirticieiit  for  spt'ciiic  /  ,-         ... 

,'.'...      ^                     '             -  Kara  Sai 
deteriiiiiiation)    ...          ...          ...  ) 

126  Cliloris  barbata.  Swartz        ...          ...  IJo^'ha/     LaMj,'ai"       o.jOO 

127  Poa  alpina,  Linn Sarok  Tii/.  Valley     13")00 

128  IVm  attenuata.  Trin.  ...          ...           /  ,„   ,                  ,,  ,        i,v.,w. 

,».   ,.                    ..  \i    ,»i     ••,              ■  1  lateamuMrrulii     10.5UU 
(Native  name,      Ak  Oto     )             \ 

129  Festuca    ovina,    Linn.    var.    vak--   |  Ta<,'li(luni  l)asli 

siaca,  Koch        \  Taniir            ...     14UUU 

,.,,^       ,,    ,            1        /■                   1      A      r  Shiran      Maidan 

IlW       lestuca  rubra,  Lnni.  var.  robusta,  1  ^j           ,t  ,, 

,,1,                                                  N  liunza  \  alley, 

Kenclle,  var.  nov.           ...         ...   j  ,..,.,  ,,  •'     ,.. 

(  near  Kilik  rass     \c 


O.-jOO 
<»")()0 


K51        IVstuca  Deasyi,  Rendle,  s^t.  nov.    \ 
(Native  name  "  Kileb  ")  ( 

l;52       ilordeum  violaceum,  IJoiss. 

183  A^Toinrum  Tlioroldianuni.  ()li\t'r  ■' 

184  Elynuis  sibiricus,  Linn. 

185  Elvmus  dasvstachvs,  Trin.  ...  -, 


13000 

Plateau  near  Polu  lO.'JOO 

Kara  Sai  ...  '.i.'jOU 
Northern    Tii)Lt, 

Canip  100      ...  ir»(580 

and  Camp  102  ...  16400 

Kara  Sai            ...  ;»")(X) 

Kara  Sai  ...  '.».")00 
Valley    of    Talde 

Koi   Su         ...  181KX) 


There   are   also    a    few    }j;rasses    represented    by    leaves    only, 
which    it   is   impossible   to   determine. 


GLOSSARY 


Beg,  Iinpoitaiit  native  olliciiil 

Caravan  Bashi,  Head  of  a  Caravan 

Chang  Tang,  Native  name  for  Tibet 

Chow  Kuan,  District  Magistrate 

Cho,  Lake 

Da  wan,  Pass 

Ghi  or  Ghee,  Butter,  (often  rancid) 

Kara,  Black 

Kyang.  Wild  Donkey 

Kuk  Bashi,  Head  of  Canals 

Kul,  Lake 

La,  Pass 

Marpa,  Small  one-horse  Chinese  cart 

Ming  Bashi,  Head  of  1,000 

Oan  Bashi,  Head  of  10 

Sai,  Water 

Sheetai,  Chief  military  oflicer,  corresponding  to  General  Officer  Comniandintr 

Sin  Chiang,  Chinese  name  for  Chinese  Turkestan 

Suttoo,  parched  barley,  ground,  (in  which  there  is  often  plcntv  of  dirt) 

Su,  Water 

Taotai,  Chief  civil  officer 

Teetai,  Chief  military  officer 

Yak  dan,  Indian-niade  leather-covered  box  for  camels,  ponies,  bullocks  or  mules 

Yaiigi  Shahr,  Chinese  town 

Yuz  Bashi.  head  of  100 


406 


NDEX 


Aiiin'i.  K.vui.M,  Naik,  1(17,  IHH,  orderly 
of  the  soeond  expedition,  volunteers, 
10:i,  liis  opinion  of  tlie  ciinivan- 
biishi,  10(1,  a  useful  num,  814 

Abdul  Klialik,  caravan-bash!  of  the 
second  expedition,  103,  bad  conduct 
of,  104-0,  and  punishment,  107,  his 
transport  contract,  840 

Adam  Tuamos  Pass,  elevation  of,  and 
cold  in,  255 

Afghanistan,  unsatisfactory  political 
state  of,  858 

Akbar  Khan,  Wazir  of  Gilgit,  and  the 
trial  of  Abdul  Khalik,  107 

Aksai  Chin,  the  journey  to,  and  pre- 
liminary dilKculties,  1(54-5,  arrival 
at,  17!),  elevation  of,  IsO,  Tibet 
entered  from,   ISO 

Aksakal,  the,  of  tlie  Chiiii  lia^di  dis- 
trict, sent  to  thcTeetai  of  Varkand, 
145  (•> 

Aksu,  temporary  CHiinese  camp  at,  820 

Alajoi,  ditticult  track  near,  105,  loess 
caveat,  107,  dilliciilties  wilh  aiiiuials 
at,  camp  near,  814 

A! mora,  ()2 

Aneroids,  defects  common  to,  H7 

An  La,  route  to,  from  Fobrang,  un- 
mapped, 1(> 

Anshe  Tagh  peak,  not  to  be  identified, 
150 

Antelopes,  42,  40,  71,  170,  elevation- 
limit  of  haunts  of,  71,  great  herds 
of,  seen  near  Camp,  10.,  2(1.  tame- 
ness  of  near  Camp,  21..  81  ;  found 
in  Western  Tibet,  8(18 

Aiiple-dumpling  i)  In  Uassuula,  42 


Argnn  caravan  men  from  Ladak, 
merits  and  demerits  of,  4,  lying 
habits  of,  5(1 

Arpatalak  Pass,  200 

Aru  Cho,  Bower's  route  north  of,  88. 
intermittent  How  of,  32,  scenery  and 
vegetation  near,  34 

Asgan  Sal  Valley,  fruit  cultivation  in, 
12i),  view  above,  281,  visit  of  vil- 
lagers from,  128 

Astor,  ponv-men  from,  troublesome  at 
Baltit,  100,  dismissal  of,  110 

Astral  observations,  ditliculties  caused 
during  by  high  winds,  25 

Astronomical  and  other  preparatory 
studies  of  Deasy,  2 

Atish  Pass,  into  Tibet,  elevation  of 
and  mountains  visible  from,  175, 
crossed  i)y   Ueasy,  ih. 

Atmospheric  conditions,  curiously  in- 
constant elTects  of  at  various  eleva- 
tions, 08 

At  To  Pass,  Cam[t  at.  108,  crossing 
of,  318-0,  route  opened  by.  from 
Polu  to  the  ITpper  Kiria,  178 

At  Tui,  17(1 

Awras,  hills  composed  of  loess  and 
sand,  105 

Ayra  or  Ara  Tash,  (Camp  4(1.),  re- 
visited, 281 

Aytash,  ford  between  Taklay  and,  148 

Azgar,  cultivation  at,  120,  Kanjut 
occupation  of.  201 

B.\ii.\  Maitn,  ruin  on  the  Kiria,  IsO, 
180,  Deasy's  arrival  and  illness  at. 
822,  return  journey  lii'i,  102 


407 


4oS 


ixn/:x 


liHckliinil,  Mr.,  Swetlish  niissioniiiy  at 

Yurkiuid,    14!»,    '1()\,    Mist    lueetiiij,' 

with,    i;JO,    infonniition    fiiniisht'il 

bv,  on  the  Chinese  luul  Yarkandis, 

137 
Badakshan,  riding-ponies  from,  15 
Baggage     animals,    [xee    aUu    Yaks), 

varying  powers  of,  200 
Baggage,  burning  of  the  superfluous, 

42 
Hugh,  valleys  near,  27H 
Bald-headed  coot  seen  near  Thokcho 

Karu  Camp,  90  i 

Baltal,  rest-house  at,  0,  1)1),  locked  up, 

100 
Balti  traveller  frozen  to  death  in  the 

Zoji  La,  100 
Baltit,  capital  of  Hunza,  109 
Bandipur,  transport  animals  procured 

from,  104 
Batang,  Deasy's  alleged  objective  from 

Gerge,  (50 
Bazar   Dara,  fort,  at,  119,  refusal  of 

men  to  go  elsewhere  than,  llK,  route 

to  from  Surukwat,  120-1,  fords  near, 

202.  arrival  at.  122,  garrison  of,  and 

position  of,  122-;j 
Begs  uf  Chinese  Turkestan,  and  the 

"  squeeze  "  system,  882 
Beldir  village,  270 
Bishan  Dass,    Wazir  of  Ladak,  good 

offices  of,  8,  15,  99 
Boortza  grass  [Kiirulln  centtoiilex)  of 

Tibet,  28,  used  as  fuel,  50,  92,  288, 

el  pdn.i'tiii 
Bower,  Capt.,  Tibetan  travels  of,  20-1, 

88 
British-Indian  Government,  a  warning 

to,  857 
Bu  Kujeral),  watch-tower  at,  and  vege- 
tation near,  224-5 
Burangsal,     Tajik     village,     thriving 

aspect  of,  271 
Burrhel,  259,  801 

Caiiks  for  prisoners,  880 
Caravan-men,   points   to  be   regarded 

in  engaging,  8 
Carev,  Mr.  .\.  D. ,  Tibetan    travels   of, 

20^  100,  172,   180 
Camps  88.  and  84.,  searcitj-  of  water 

near,  45 
Cangue,  the,  a  form  of  punishment, 

885,    Islam    Akun    condemned    to 

wear,  155 


Chadder   Ta.sh,    difficult  route    from, 
288,   wretched   camping-ground  at, 
288-9 
Chadder  Valley,  ice  and  snow  in,  821 
Chaka     Oasis,     departure     for,    201, 
mountains  near  determined  by  the 
Indian  Survey.  157 
Chang,  a  drink,  11 

Chang    Chenrao,    scanty   grazing    in, 
20,   two   friends   met   in   returning 
I  iV>,  824 
Changfunchuk,    a   good   shot,  38,   as 
nurse,    l(i2-8,    .sent   to  explore  the 
route   to   Kaskam,    114,    110,  inac- 
curate   reports    of,    180,    188,    218, 
useful  with  the  heliograph,  194 
Chang   La,    lofty   pass    impracticable 
at  start  of   expedition,  11,  crossed 
on    the   return,   99,    again   on    the 
return  to  Leh,   824 
Changnangma,  (Camp  07.),  intermit- 
tent stream  near,  80 
Chang   Tang,    the    native    name    for 

Tibet,  2 
Changzote,  the,  of  Himis  Monastery, 

hospitality  of,  11 
Charol  or    Shemen    Cho,    mountains 

near,  72,  wild  yak  near,  808 
Chekundo,  (note),  225 
Chicore,    {xee   also   liam  Chicore),   in 

Chinese  Turkestan,  802 
CMna,  map  of,  seen  at  Sarok  Tuz, 
174,  strict  etiquette  observed  in, 
182-4,  unlucky  days  in,  incon- 
venience caused  by  observance  of, 
182 
Chinese  interpreters  in  Chinese 
Turkestan,  extortion  practised  by, 
331 

treatment  of  animals,  84(i 

Chinese  Turkestan  or  Sin  Chiang, 
agricuilural  produce  of,  340,  atti- 
tude of  people,  as  distinguisheil 
from  officials,  towards  British 
travellers,  197,  cost  of  administra- 
tion of,  329,  cruel  customs  con- 
cerning transport  animals  in,  7, 
346,  disregard  for  unmounted  per- 
sons in,  158,  fuel  of,  {-tee  Boortza), 
842,  the  Futai  of,  82H,  831,  game 
in,  858,  et  srq.,  gold  washing  in, 
841,  industries  of.  Hi.,  irrigation 
in,  2s0,  338-9,  justice,  crime  and 
pauijerism  in,  333-8 ;  military  forces 
of,  349,  distribution  of,  354,  inspec- 


/xni-x 


409 


tions  of  iiiul  (jnliiiiiu't',  'A't'.'i  ;  rccfiii 
slavery  in,  ami  forced  labour, 
minerals  of,  341-2,  native  belief 
in  the  medical  skill  of  all  Euro- 
pean travellers,  3;}.s,  preference  for 
Chinese  rather  than  Russian  f^overn- 
ment,  357,  ollicial  name  for  and 
oIliciaLs  of,  328,  their  corruptness. 
2311,331;  perisanurlol  the  expedition 
to,  103  ;  postal  and  tele^jrapliic  ar- 
ranj^enients  in.  3J()-.s,  reli^^ion  in, 
33H,  Russian  methods  in  re.i,'ard  to, 
354,  et  xc(/.,  the  Siberia  of  China, 
customs  travellers  should  conform 
to  in,  130,  taxation  and  "squeezes" 
in,  332,  trade  and  tratlic  in,  342-4, 
transport  in.  344-() 

Chini  lia^'h,  Varkand,  joint-abode  of 
Deasy  with  Macartney  and  Hen- 
driks,  144 

Chiunf,'  Janf,de,  the  widest  part  of  tlu 
Raskam  valley,  120 

river,  one  name  of  the  Yarkaiid 

river,  144 

Chortan},'  valley,  dilliculties  of  sur- 
vey inj,'  in,  27H 

Christmas  Day,  1.SU8.,  at  Zad,  2ri3 

Clnikpa  boundary  nnirks,  32 ;  raid  of 
on  Camp  31.,  37,  operations  against, 
38-40 ;  said  to  be  in  force  near 
Gerfj;e,  (iO 

Cluikyar,  Deasy's  yak-hunt  at,  71 

Chumdi,  mes.senger  sent  forward  to 
Vaikand  from,  130 

Chungpa  pillars  of  stone,  horns,  and 
mud  ni'ar  Yesliil  Kul,  24 

Church  and  I'helps,  Messrs.,  predeces- 
sors of  Deasy  in  the  Raskam  vallov, 
118 

Churti  watershed,  84 

Cobl)old,  Captain  R.  P.,  Deasy's  fellow- 
traveller  to  thc'i'aghdumbash  I'amir, 
102,  joined  by  Deasy  at  Tnigbal, 
10"),  illness  of"  at  Dali  I'ari,  lOM,  ob- 
tains a  sporting  permit  from  I'etrov- 
sky.  111,  sport  enjoyed  by  on  the 
I'amir,  112,  and  elsewhere  114 

Coles,  Mr.  J.,  R.N.,  Deasy's  studies 
under,  2 

Commerce  of  Great  Britain  in  relation 
to  Russian  movements  in  Chinese 
Turkestan,  3.'j7 

Cordite,  uselessness  of,  in  extreme 
cold,  <»") 

Curzon  of  Kedlestone,  Lord,  his  map 


oi  ill.'  Pamirs,  etc.,  101,  in  regard  to 
Mount  Kungur,  2110 

Dad  MoiivMMKii,  murder  of  Dagleish 

at,  1(»8 
Dagleish,   Mr.,  travels  of,   in  the  Polu 
district,   172,  180,  murder  of  at  Dad 
Mohammed,  108 
Dak  Pari,  rest-house,  outbreak  of  .\bdul 

Khalik  at,  IOC. 
Dal  Lake,  Kashmir,  0 
Dalai  Lama,  the,  of  Lhasa,  his  Envoy 
Extraordinary  received  by  the  Czar, 
358 
Dalbir  Rai,  sub-surveyor,  second  ex- 
pedition, 102,  as  leader,  115,  work  of 
at  Mazar  Sultan,  113,  illness  of,  125, 
128,  140,  1114,  deliberate  falsilication 
of  work  and  nnirderous  outbreak  by, 
I'.Ht,  sent   to   Kiria  for  punishment, 
200,  detained  ill  at  Khotan,  202 
Damtang    Lungpa,    disused    workings 

near,  54 
Danga  15ash  or  Tashkurgan  river,  ditVi- 
cidty  of  crossing,  274,  Deasy  the  first 
European  in  the  valley  of,  27rt,  ibex 
of,  3(;i 
Dass,  the  cook  on  both  expeditions,  15, 
able  to  shoot,  38,  his  Christmas 
pudding,  2()3 
Dead,  the,  disposal  of,  in  Tibet.  7»> 
Deasy,  Captain  IL  H.  P.,  choice  of 
region  to  explore,  1,  preparations  and 
helpers,  2,  preliminary  ditVuulties, 
3,  choice  of  route,  5,  companion, 
(gee  Pike),  5,  ft  pussim,  hospitality 
of  Captain  Chcnevix  -  Trench  at 
Srinngar,  route  thence  to  Leh,  fl,  7, 
further  preparations,  8-10,  Leh  to 
Eobrang,  15,  thence  to  the  Lanak  La, 
l(>-20,  survey  work  iiinssiiii),  obser- 
\ations,  nocturnal  and  other,  dilli- 
culties of,  25. 42,  (>H.S3,H(;,  mountains 
measured  Oli,  and  identified,  73, 
frozen  ink,  73 ;  illness  at  Fever 
Camp,  22-3,  thence  to  Aru  Cho.  24, 
32,  Camp  31.  raided  by  Chukjias,  37, 
operations  against,  38,  and  punish- 
ment of ,  40 ;  reducing  the  baggage, 
41,  meeting  with  the  Nomails,  4(i-9, 
lost  in  the  ilesert,  50,  found  by  Pike, 
53;  journey  to  (Jerge,  54  7,  visit 
from  the  Pombo  of,  received  by,  51(, 
journey  to  TInugo  and  on  to  Ladak, 
03,   el    neq.,    record    skull    of    Ovis 


410 


/.y/>/:.\' 


Ainiiioii  found  en  nmtr,  (i5 ;  vak 
luint  at  Cluikvar,  71,  assistance 
^'iviMi  hv  Nvui),'ot  Srinj,',  75  ;  visit  to 
lUindor,  SO,  attacked  by  Kundor  dog, 
«4 ;  crossinj,'  the  Nabo  La,  87,  loss 
of  theodolite  near,  HH ;  urrival  at 
Niag/.u,  [)2,  return  to  Leh,  '.IC,  fare- 
well to  Pike  and  to  the  caravan,  9!), 
end  of  first  journey,  100 

objective  of  Second  journey,  and 

preparations,  102,  companion  to  the 
Pamirs,  (.«',-  Cobbold),  1U2,  person- 
mi  of  expedition,  103-4,  assistance 
of  Major  Yeildiiif,'  and  equipment, 
105,  ditlicuities  with  the  caravan- 
bashi,  105,  his  punishment,  107-H, 
British  hospitality  at  Gilgit,  lOH, 
journey  thence  to  the  Pamirs,  lO'J, 
troui)]e  with  the  Astori  pony  men, 
109-10,  survey  work  and  its  dillicul- 
ties.  jttissim,  observations  for  the 
height  of  Muz  Tagh  Ata,  20;t,  and 
for  visibility  thereof  from  Kashgar, 
2Ha-(»0  ;  frozen  ink,  217,  frozen 
candles,  245,  region  first  laid  down 
by  281  ;  difficult  climb  at  Mazar 
Sultan,  llii.  journey  to  l^askam  and 
obstructive  natives,  114,  110-7, 
sport  near  the  Kungerab  Pass,  115, 
arrival  in  Raskam,  118,  difficult 
travelling  in  the  Dozok  Dara,  123, 
arrival  at  Issok  Bulok  Agzi,  125, 
journey  thence  to  Tir,  across  the 
Sandal  Dawan,  12r)-8,  arrival  and 
stay  at  Yarkand,  130-31,  a  disas- 
trous ban(|uet,  13(i-7,  relations 
with  the  Chow  Kuan,  132  ct  srq., 
journey  to  Kangar.  140,  punish- 
ment of  othcials  on  return  there, 
143,  return  to  and  meeting  with 
Macartney,  144,  verification  of 
Trotter's  observations,  145-(),  re- 
arrangement of  plans,  14r>-'J,  excur- 
sion to  the  Taklu  Makan  desert, 
14'.>,  154,  arrival  at  Khotan,  155, 
medical  labours  at,  150 

journey  to  Polu  and  excursions 
thence,  157-00.  pause  near  Kiria, 
101,  a  sick  servant  nursed  by, 
102-4,  interview  with  the  Chow 
Kuan  of  Kiria,  104,  his  request  as 
to  the  frontier.  105.  thence  to  Kara 
Sai,  1()0,  revolt  of  the  Kiria  men, 
107,  quarters  at  Kara  Sai,  10!), 
journey    thence     to    Tibet,    171, 


search  of  route  to  Central  Tibet 
from,  Polu,  172.  Kara  Sai  to 
Sarok  Tuz,  ill-health.  17(»;  snowy 
mountains  seen  near  the  Kiria 
river,  177.  Shor  Kul  reached.  175 
and  revisited,  Aksu  to  Shor  Kul, 
survey  undertaken  between,  170; 
plants  found  near  Camp  102., 
183-5;  crossing  the  Kiria,  180; 
Fever  Camp  revisited  and  triangu- 
lations  connected  at.  I'.IO,  retinn 
to  Aksu.  102  ;  trouble  with  the 
caravan  men  near  Kha  Vak  Day, 
105,  dillicult  descent  near,  105, 
return  to  Polu,  107,  feast  to 
villagers,  108,  murderous  conduct 
of  DalbirPai,  100  ;  departure  from 
to  Khotan  202.  and  Yarkan.l.  203 
preparations  for  winter  journey  to 
Sarikol,  204.  difficulties  of  exchange, 

200,  help  from  the  Peg  of  Sarikol, 
212  -  3,  official  obstructiveness, 
Mariong  valley,  210,  misleading  in- 
formation given  as  to  Nosh  Tung, 
220-2,  arrival  in  the  Yarkand 
valley,  223,  journey  to  Pil,  227,  t'ii'' 
Pichanyart,  228,  the  Shamatagle 
pass,  230,  rest  at  Sanglash,  Chinese 
suspicions  and  observations  made 
at,  235,  203,  308-12,  320-4,  trouble- 
some guides,  (.svT  Yul  Bash),  237, 
journey  to  Pilipert,  237-41,  over  the 
Mamakulpass,  245,  men's  endurance 
of  cold,  240,  death  of  Zanibok,  the 
dog,  247,  arrival  at  Misgan,  250,  re- 
turn to  Pilipert,  250,  at  Issok  Bulok 
Agzi,  250.  hospitable  Kirghiz,  2()1, 
2()2;  Christmas  and  Christmas  fare  at 
Zad,  203;  return  to  Tir,  205,  troubles 
of  the  villagers,  200,  niiicinlr  hninir- 
iihlc  made  to  the  Yuz  liashi  of,  271, 
official  anxiety  as  to  tlie  illness  of 
Sonam,  273-278;  arrival  at  Kichik 
Tuno,  273,  crossing  tlieTaslikurglian 
river,  274-0,  journey  to  Kosaraii, 
277-0,  crossing  the  Teriart  river, 
270 ;  method  of  payment  adopted 
by,  280 ;  return  to  Yarkand,  282, 
negociating  a  bill  of  exchange,  283-4, 
journey  to  Kashgar,  rw  Khan  Arik 
route,  284-9,  hospitality  met  with 
en   niKte,   287-0,    stay  at   Kashgar, 

201.  officials  at,  Chinese  Bussian 
and  British.202-5,  return  to  Yarkand 
ii/t  Yangi  Hissar,  297,  delays  at  start, 


ixn/ix 


411 


300-3,  once  inoif  at  Khotiin.  delays 
there,  3()4-(),  Macartney's  assistance, 
307,  a  tiresome  olViciai  at  I'oiu,  3()H, 
HOlt,  :n-J,  I'olii  to  Vuri<nn(l,310;  dis- 
missal of  Haju,  caravan-hashi,  311  ; 
outfit  procured  at  I*()lu,'2r2-3,  trouble 
with  the  ponies,  313-4,  defects  of 
donkeys,  315,  accidental  death  of 
Kasim,  317  ;  crossin}^  the  AtToimss, 
31H-;»,  indisposition  after,  31'.»-23. 
oilicial  hindrances  3"2()-l,  storm  en- 
countered at  T()t,'ral  Monpo,  322, 
meetini,'  with  friends  in  the  Chang 
Chenmo,  324,  return  to  Leh,  pleasant 
acquaintances  there,  32;),  farewell  to 
the  caravan,  320,  return  to  India 
r'u'i  Kashmir,  illness  there  and  re- 
turn to  En},'land,  320-7 

Death  penalty  at  Lhasa,  how  carried 
out,  7tl 

Dehra  Dun,  Deasy's  studies  at,  2,  his 
maps  drawn  and  published  at,  327 

Dental  operations  of  Deasy  at  I'olu  and 
elsewhere,  100,  213 

Devi,  the  goddess  of  summits,  olTerings 
to,  07 

Deva  Zung,  the,  at  Lhasa,  described 
as  all-knowing,  47 

Dia,  village  in  the  l*il  valley,  237 

Dilsuk  Ham,  KuUi  trader  at  Gerge, 
pony  bought  from  08,  statements  of 
as  to  routes,  01,  02 

Do/.ok  Dara  Su,  fort  at  mouth  of,  11!), 
meaning  of  name  fully  justified,  123 

Dras,  heavy  snow-fall  at,  '.III,  wooden 
saddles  from,  Kll 

Durguk  village,  12 

Dustour,  (custom),  the  tyranny  of,  0 

Dyai)  C!ho  or  Lake  'I'reb,  niianiliiin 
near  with   rounded   summit,  ss  ;( 

KMtrnm-AKKs,  114,  110,  117 
lOurojiean  travellers,  crossings  of  the 
Varkand  river  by,    Kll 

'•Fkvku  Camt,"  near  the  Yeshil  Kul, 
22,  second  visit  to,  joining  survey  of 
first  and  second  journeys,   I'M) 

Fighting  strength  of  the  first  caravan, 
3S  '.I 

Foreittners  greatly  respected  by  people 
of  Chinese  Turkestan,  33H 

Fobrang,  village,  great  altitude  of,  l.">, 
route  from,  to  the  Laiiak  La.  10 

Fortash,  route  from  to  Itaskam  blocked 


bv    snow,   202,    survey    elTorts    at, 

foiled,  125 
Futai,  the,  of  Chinese  Turkestan,  328, 

his  necessities,  331 
Furzanak  I'ik-,  il.vatiim  and  crcjssiuL' 

of,  25") 

Gas,  outlets  near  Camp  I'.l.,  2M 

Gazelle,  in  Chinese  Turkestan,  rare, 
303,  in  Western  Tibet,  304 

Gerge,  the  route  to,  411,  a  guide  ob- 
tained, 55,  reached  by  Deasy's  ex- 
pedition, 50,  name  used  for  district, 
57,  purchase  of  pony  at,  5H,  topo- 
graphical work  at,  59 

the  I'ombo  of  visits  Deasy,  59, 

obstructive  tactics  of,  00,  01 

Gezuk,  coarse  grass  of,  and  rough 
character  of  valley  at,  11^ 

Gilgit,  halt  at.  and  transport  animals 
procured,  lOS-9,  trial  of  Khalik  at, 
107 

Gilgit-Hunza  route  to  Yarkand  river, 
otlicial  permission  to  use  granted,  102 

Glacier  on  Uaskam  side  of  Mamakul 
Pass,  24(i.  native  knowledge  of  un- 
wittingly displayed,  244,  night  spent 
Ixlow,  247-9,  survey  work  on  sum- 
mit. 245 

(iold,  found  on  the  banks  of  the  Yar- 
kand river,  144,  said  to  be  found  at 
Thok  .Talung,  03,  selling  price  of  at 
Thok  Gerche,  59 

Gombaz  or  Mazar,  rest-house,  at,  214, 
tents  at,  and  survey  work  under 
dithculties,  217,  peaks  identitied 
from  station  near,  21H 

Gore,  Col.  St.  G.  C,  n.i;.,  Deasy's  in- 
debtedness to,  2 

Graham,  Major,  it. 11. a.,  meeting  with, 
in  Chang  Chenmo,  324,  travel  with, 
320 

Grasswrack,  {/.oaterin  Miiriini),  foimd 
near  Yepal  Cngur.  1M3  4 

(treat  Ihitain.  commerce  of  with 
Chinese  Turkestan,  and  lUissian 
movements  in  that  region,  357 

Grombchefsky,  Col.,  crossing  of  Yar- 
kand river  at  Sangla.sh  by,  101 

visit  of  to  Sanglash,  237 

GufTar,  227,  201 

(iuma,  oasis  of,  152.  154 

(lurmen  Cbo.jici'  llorpa  Cho 

Giirka  orderlies,  .5,  one  falls  ill  and  is 
left  behind,  11 


41 


/.\'/)/:.\' 


Hakes  in  Western  Tibet.  804 
Hiiziinit  liej^'um,    tomb  at,    historical 

associiitions  of,  21(7 
Hahvii,    II  dish,    iis    luiitle   by    Leno's 

cook,  7o 
Ik'ilin,    Dr.    Svcn,    use   of    the    Khan 

Arik  route  by,  '2H4 
Height,  boiUnj;  thermometer  for,  under 

dilliculties  on  the  Nabo  La,  HG 
HcUoj,'raphs  of  amateur  construction, 

HO 

Hendriks,  Father,  shares  the  Chini 
Baj^jh  at  Yarkand  with  Deasy  and 
Macartney,  144,  acts  as  interpreter, 
140,  unenviable  position  of,  at 
Kashj^'ar,  2!t.$ 

Himis  Monastery,  visited  by  Deasy 
and  Pike,  11 

Hi')f,'bcr^;,  Mr.  L.  E.,  Swedish  nii.ssion- 
ary  in  Kasli^^ar,  ill-treatment  of ,  802 

Hurpa  Cho  or  Gurnien  Cho,  20, 
mountains  near,  21,  survey  work 
near,  ib. 

Iluuza,  capital  of,  10'.),  the  Mir  of, 
paying,'  tribute  to  China,  aW 

IitKX,  wliere  found,  220,  247,  801 

Iksu,  185,  route  from,  1H'.» 

Ilak   Wvdi,  almost  sunless  valley  of, 

118 
Ilisu  or  I]i{,'hsu  Pass,  route  to  liaskam 

rii'i     reported    easy,    110,    journey 

throu<,'h,     117-8,    route     to,     from 

Serai,  2()2 
Hi  Kich  district,  Ovis  Poli  of,  111 
Imam  La,  ascent  from  to  Polu,   l.">8, 

<iViV/Au'^  ;,'round  for  mares,  lii\) ;  810 
Indian  trade  and   traders  in   Chinese 

Turkestan,  dishonesty  of,  848,dilli- 

cnitifs  of,  844,  8o7 
Indus  river,  11 
Islam,  di)ul)le  crossing'  of  the  Kuramut 

Pass    by,    2(j0,  sent   to   reconnoitre 

route  rii'i  Opran{<  Pass,  115,  useless 

in  reconnoitriu},',  27 
Islam    Akun,     purveyor     of     ancient 

books,  t,'uide  to  expedition  to  Takla 

Makan,  140, 150,  uselessness  of,  153, 

punisliment    of,    155,    guide    from 

Kara  Sai,  178,  188,  108 
Irvar.  extreme  diflicultv  of  route  near, 

'l21 
Issok  Bulok,  (Hot  Sprinj^'s),  easy  route 

to,  towards  Haskani,  115 
Issok   Bulok   Agzi,    latitude   of,    125, 


route  from  to  Tir,  125-<),  258,  arrival 

at,  250,  survey  work  at  and  plans, 

200 
Issok  Sn  Agzi,  248 
Itula    Khan    river,  conlhience   of   with 

the  Tolan  Khoja,  178 

JiiinvuKi,  dwellinj,'  of  the  Beg  of  Khan 

Arik  at,  2^7-0 
Jilgan  (tamarisk),  in  Yarkand  valley, 

225 
Jones,  Major,  assistance  rendered  by 

to  Deasy,  102-3 
Jurab,  journey  to  ami  camp  at,  272 

K.2.,  peak  so  called  by  Deasy,  2110 
Kamish  grass,  coarse  kind,  118 
Kanioyogma,   camp,   visit  of  Nyniget 

Sring  to,  85 
Kangri,  annual  fair  of,  02,  guide  for 

found,  ih.,  but  later  declines  journey, 

()8 
Kanjut-Raskam  ailair   the,  244,  251, 

201,  Chow  Kuan's  action  concein- 

ing,  244,  Russian  attitude  to,  855 
Kanjuts,  British  subjects,  855 
Kara    Sai    attempt    at    mutiny    near, 

l()7-0,   loess   caves  and  cultivation 

at,  lO'.l,   departure  from   for  Tibet, 

171 

—  —  men,  feuds  of,  178,  farewell 
ceremonies  of,  181,  usefulness  of, 
181 

—  —  route,  Chinese  obstruction  on, 
821 

Kara  Targaz  oasis,  152,  154 

Karanuit  Dawan  route  to  Yarkand, 
badness  of,  120 

Karaul,  see  Surnkwat 

Karghalik,  151,  200,  pauix-rism  in, 
887,  transport  camels  obtained  at, 
152 

Kaigil,  ponies  from,  15 

Kasligar,  attack  on  the  Swedish 
missionaries  at,  302.  military  in- 
spection and  guns  at,  858,  prepara- 
tions for  next  journey  at,  205-0, 
return  to  1800.,  280,  trade  of  and 
fortifications,  200,  water  supply, 
200-1,  the  Russian  Consul  General 
at(.scr  Petrovsky),  111,  trade  of  with 
oasis  of  Yarkand,  285,  Yarkand 
postal  route,  180,  the  Taotai  of, 
open  and  secret  orders  of  in  regard 
to  Deasy,  116,  interview  with,  201-, 


ixn/-:x 


413 


•liiinfr    with,    •2'.(2.    iittitudc    of    to 
l'cli()vskv,'2'.)l,2'.(H,  pcc-uliar  position 

of,  :j:u 

Kiisiiii,  kiili'tl  near  Kha  Yak  Day,  .{17 
Kashmir  State  Ollicers,  helpfuiniss  of, 

— the  one  exception,  H 
Kaze   Chaka,  salt  lake  west  of,  fon- 

tracting  area  of,  79 
Kennion,   Capt.    W.    L.,  British  Joint 

Commissioner,  Leh,  8'2o 
Keshna,  elevated    haltinj^  place,   121), 

observations  at,  270 
Kesin     I'ass,    elevation    of     summit, 

observations  at,  27H 
Kepsang  Pass,  (Kone  La),  elevation  of, 

Hi) 
Kha  Yak   Day,  l'.)4,  loess  caves  near, 

19o,    317,    wretched    camp    at,    ih., 

route  from  I'olu  to  the  Upper  Kiria, 

\n 

Khan  Arik,  arrival  at,  20(5,  the  hospit- 
able Heg  of,  2M7-<),  route  used  by 
Deasy  and  earlier  by  Svcn  Hedin, 
2H4 

Khandar  Pass,  209,  crossin},'  of  aban- 
doned, 140,   journey  throu^'h,   213, 

ran^e,  not  seen  from  Shamatagle 

I'a-s,  230 

Khotan,  arrival  at  and  quarters  in, 
dilliculties  of  observing  in,  154-5  ; 
the  Beg  of,  assistance  of  secured, 
300,  300,  the  Chow  Kuan  of, 
obstructiveness  of,  304,  300,  332 ; 
cottage  industries  of  and  jade  at, 
150 ;  deserts  eu  route  to,  154  ; 
manufactures  of,  14i)-50 ;  medical 
avocations  of  Deasy  at,  155-0 ; 
pauperism  in,  337  ;  prepayment  for 
journey  to,  2'.K) ;  return  visit  to,  201, 
news  received  at,  202 ;  the  Takla 
Makan  desert  in,  Deasy 's  journey  in, 
151  et  xeq. 

river,  sources  of,  103 

Khurak.  220,  the  Ming  liashi  of,  help 
given  by  at  (lombaz,  214  ;  district 
near  and  inhabitants,  217 

Khuyek,  gorge  near  and  camp  at,  173 

Kiehik  Tung  valley,  messenger  from 
Macartney  met  in,  272,  aspect  of  ice 
in.  273 

Kieuns  La,  route  v'u'i  to  tlie  Lanak  l,u. 
10 

Kilik  Pass,  lOO,  crossing  of.  Ill 

King.  Captain  and  Mrs.,  at   Leh,  .■(2") 

Kirghiz,  the.  biigf/iiire  animals  bought 


from,  110,  caravan-men  obtained 
among,  113  :  dispute  of,  with  people 
of  Tir,  2(>".( ;  friends  amongst,  near 
Kiziljy,  201  ;  inhabitants  of  the 
Kulan  I'rgi  valley,  202,  204-5; 
those  of  ()[)rang  and  region  averse 
to  further  progress  of  the  expedi- 
tion, 114 

Kiria,  caravan  men  from,  trou))le  with, 
107,  ilismissal  of,  170;  the  Chow- 
Kuan  of,  100,  a  skilled  ol)struction- 
ist,  104,  173,  11(2.  Dalbir  Uai  sent  to 
in  disgrace,  200,  extortion  by,  3.30; 
fruit  from  brought  to  Polu,  201  ; 
men  from  drive  olT  donkeys  of  the 
expedition,  320,  the  reason,  321 

river,  atttuents  of,  100.  Eastern 

branch,  170,  fording  in  summer, 
1H(;,  true  sources,  18U,  unmapped 
tributary  of,  179 

Kizil  Su,  muddy  water  of,  291 

Kiziljv,  meeting  with  the  Ex-Beg  of, 

Kokoi  Kochka  Pass,  route  via  between 

Serai  and  Raskam,  202 
Kolkachi,  Deasy's  dwelling  in,  outside 

Yarkand,  1.30-1 
Kone  La,  (Kepsang  Pass),  elevation  of, 

H9 
Kosarab,  attempt  to  ascend  by  Yarkand 

valley  from,  139,  alleged  existence 

of  copper  at,  143,  minerals  near,  279 
Kotaz  Langar,  Beg's  present  of  rice  at, 

300,  sandstorm  near.  30S 
Kozey  village,  fruit  trees  at,  270 
Kugiar,  camels  of,  2.M4,  297 
Kukalung    Pass,    burrhel    near,    301. 

elevation  of  an<l  diOicullies  in.  123. 

mountains  near,    seen   from    Piyek 

Pass,  259,  pleasures  of  triangulation 

near,  123-4 
Kuktash,  slight  cultivation  at,  120 
Kukteruk  nullah,  elevated  camp  near 

111.  Ovis  poli  in,  112 
Kulan  I'rgi   valley,  camp   in  at   Zad, 

123,    125.   route    from,  to    Baskam, 

243,  summer  aspect  of,  204,  Deasy's 

return  to,  2.5.S-".( 
Kulja,  the  Taotai  of.  peculiar  position 

of,  331 
Kumboyan,  long  ascent  to,  170 
Kunehuk.  takes  his  discharge,  301 
Kungerab  Pass,  sport  near,  115 
Kungur  Mountain,  of  Curzon's  map, 

200 


4'4 


IXDRX 


Kunzum,  antelope  at,  71,  effects  of 
altitude  felt  at,  (>H 

Kiirab  river,  near  I'olu,  100 

Kuianuit  I'ass,  '2()5,  crossed  and  re- 
crossed  by  Islam's  guide,  2()G 

Kwen  Lun  Mountains,  elevations, 
lofty  peaks  and  gl'^ciers  in,  170, 180, 
question  of  routes  over,  172  ;  seen 
from  near  Aksu,  17!),  from  Chaka 
Oasis,  lo7,  from  Nia,  lOfi,  from 
I'olu,  lo!t ;  snows  of,  providing 
water  for  the  Kliotan  deserts,  154 

Kyam,  routt;  r/Vi  to  Lanak  La,  10 

Kvang,  4'.),  oO,  in  Western  Tibet, 
*303 

Lachlan,  Captain,  meeting  with  in  the 
Chang  Chenmo,  :^24 

Ladak,  caravan  men  from  good  quali- 
ties of,  288;  death  penalty  at,  form 
of,  70  ;  ponies  from,  lo  ;  return  to, 
08  ;  Ovis  Annnon  (IhHhjMmi),  record 
head  of,  found  en  route  to,  05  ;  sus- 
picions as  to  Deasy's  destination,  9  ; 
tobacco  of,  48;  the  Wazir  of,  his 
good  ofiices,  8 

Lake,  former,  near  Iksu,  185 

impregnated    with    sodii,    near 

Camp  24.,  31 

Lake  Treb,  nee  Dyap  Cho 

Lamas  {see  Dalai  Ijama),  heavy  taxes 
and  punishments  enforced  by,  70 

Lanak  La,  easy  pass,  leading  into 
Tibet,  5,  European  predecessors  in 
country  beyond,  20,  march  to,  15, 
10,  824,  meeting  with  Major  Graham 
near,  ih. 

Langar,  189,  209,  ford  across  Yarkand 
river  at,  101,  140,  210,  lack  of 
supplies  at,  274 

Lari  Fobrang,  or  Lari  Phai,  identified 
from  mountains  near  Camp  57., 
78;  snow-clad  mountains  of,  heights 
of,  measured,  00 

Leh,  journey  to,  0.  7,  return  to,  99, 
second  return  and  pleasant  acquain- 
tances at,  825 

"  Leno,  Dan,"  sub-surveyor,  first 
journey,  10,  11,  15,  89,  able  to  shoot, 
88,  work  by,  24,42,  done  by  stealth, 
04 ;  eventual  fate  of,  102 

Lhasa,  the  Dalai  Lama  of  and  his 
Envoy  to  Russia,  258 ;  the  Deva 
Zung  of,  47  ;  exaggerated  account  of 
the  expedition  sent  to,  and  the  con- 


sequences, 57;  form  of  deal): 
penalty  in  use  at,  70 

Lima  Hingnia  Chaka,  guide  for  Kangri 
secured  at,  02 

Ijizards  in  the  Yarkand  Valley,  278 

Loo,  head  of  the  Kashgar  telegraph 
omce,  292 

Liu  Ta-jin,  Chow  Kuan  of  Yarl<;ind 
nee  Yarkand,  the  Chow  Kuan  of 

Lunar  observations,  ditliculties  pre- 
venting at  Camp  81.,  42 

Ijungma  Grass,  84 

Lutkum,  91 

valley  of  and  pass  leailing  to,  90 

Macartney,  Mr.  George,  Special 
Assistant  for  Chinese  Affairs  to  the 
Resident  in  Kashmir,  usual  abode 
of,  shares  house  at  Yarkand  with 
Deasy.  144,  insult  to  by  the  Teetai, 
145,  the  kotow  in  apology,  14() ; 
suggests  Deasy's  journey  to  the 
Takla  Makan,  149 ;  action  of  in  the 
case  of  Kastam  the  Ladaki,  202-8, 
action  as  to  Honam's  illness,  272, 
278,  action  of  in  relation  to  the 
outbreak  against  the  Swedish 
missionaries,  802;  hospitality  of  at 
Kashgar,  1899.,  289  ;  communicated 
with  from  Khotan,  304,  arrange- 
ments made  by  for  the  expedition, 
807 ;  successful  exertions  of  in 
abolishing  slavery  in  Chinese  Tur- 
kestan, 839-40 ;  unsatisfactory  otli- 
cial  position  of  as  compared  with 
that  of  I'etrovsky,  294,  actual 
strength  of,  due  to  his  personality, 
295 

Macdonald,  Sir  Claude,  representa- 
tions made  by,  on  behalf  of  Deasy, 
results  of,  292 

MacMahon,  Captain,  (Political  Officer 
at  Gilgit),  and  Mrs.  MacMahon, 
hospitality  of,  108-9,  359,  letter 
concerning  Astori  caravan-men  sent 
to,  110 

Mangstza  Lake  No.  1.  Peak,  Dea.sy's 
survey  base,  21 ;  other  mountains 
south  of,  191 

Mariong  country,  219,  unwillingness 
of  people  to  give  information,  220, 
alleged  easy  route  from  to  Serai, 
201 

river,  during  frost,  220 

valley,  hot  springs  in,  222 


IXDIiX 


4' 


Mtirmots,  at  I'olu,  102 

Miitayiui,  rest-house  at,  (J 

Mazar  Sultan,  Deasy's  topo{,'raphical 

station  at,   11'2,  dilliculty  of  distin- 

<,'uishin{,'  peaks  from,  lliJ,  route  to, 

from  Serai,  '2(i2 
Meeluihoi,  march  from  to  Baltal,  ditli- 

cuhies  of.  Hi),  frozen    sepoy  found 

during',  100 
Medical  acquirements  of  Deasy,  2,  first 

put  into  practice  on  himself,  23,  in 

request  at  Khotan,  loo-(j 
Messrur,  Dr.  J.,  Persian  Missionary, 

141(,  assistance  j^iven  by  in  selling  a 

bill  of  exchange,  284,  care  of  Utam 

Singh  by,  104,  204 
Misgan,  jungle  near,  and  observations 

at,  250-1  ;  other  names  of,  2()2 
Misgan  Jilga,  departure  from,  254 
— valley,    position   of    and 

cultivation  at,  Hi),  part  of  Ixaskam, 

250 
Mohammed   Akbar    Khan,   Wazir   of 

Gilgit,  107 

Amin,  Pathan  caravan-bashi,  a 

good  servant,  109 

Joo,    Yarkandi     caravan-bashi, 

210,  251,  253,  257,  308,  310,  311, 
323 

llamzan,  native  doctor  sent  to 

see  after  Sonan,  278-9 

Moravian  missionaries  at  Leh,  325 

Morse,  Mr.  Isidore,  attitude  of  Petrov- 
sky  to,  293,  294,  Deasy's  meeting 
with  at  Shiran  Maidan,  111 

Mountains,  (mc  Khandar  Mts.,  Kungur 
Mt.,  Kwen  Lun  Mts.  etc.),  bounding 
Haskam  valley,  119  ;  in  Tibet,  asso- 
ciated with  ancient  religiousworship, 
()7 ;  heights  of,  freer  from  snow 
than  valleys  in  winter,  76 

Muluksha,  grazing  ground  of,  Russian 
action  concerning,  355 

Mmishi  Bunvard  .Vli,  Deasy's  host  in 
Yarkand,  i:il,  299 

Sher    Mohannned,    visit    of,    to 

Deasy  at  Gombaz,  219,  loan  asked 
from,  227 

Mnnza,  the  Mir  of,  243 

Muz  Tagh  Ata,  elevation  of,  deter- 
mined, 21H,  reasons  for  wishing  to 
re-observe,  209,  seen  from  the  I'iyek 
Pass,  259 ;  question  of  its  visibility 
from  Kashgar,  289-90,  Petrovsky's 
view,  294 


Nado  La,  elevation  of  and  glacier  in, 
H(),  effect  of  altitude  at,  87,  tri- 
angulation  near,  HH,  valley  near,  84 

New  Year,  Chinese,  gala  display  on 
and  dinner  to  Deasy  at  Yarkand, 
135-7 

Nia  Oasis,  source  of  supplies  for  the 
Sorgak  gold-diggers,  lOO 

Niagzu,  elevation  of,  95,  route  vi<\  to 
the  Lanak  La,  16,  sheep  near,  92 

Niaz  .\kun,  transport  contractor,  199, 
trouble  with  his  men,  302,  nearly 
killed  at  the  Kurab  river,  310,  sent 
in  advance  to  Polu,  312,  discharge 
arranged,  324,  irrigation  difficulties 
of,  339 

Nilt,  capture  of,  109 

Nomads  met  near  Camp  34.,  46,  small 
knowledge  of  coin  amongst,  47, 
stolidity  of,  48 

Nosh  Tung,  alleged  route  from  to 
IJaskam,  22S ;  the  Ming  Pashi  of 
and  his  .son,  220,  mi.sdircction  by, 
221-2  ^ 

Nura,  case  of  cruelty  to  animals  at,  308 

Nurbu,  the  Ladaki  shepherd,  15,  68, 
309,  312,  318,  effect  of  altitude  at 
^  Tongral  Chunzak  on,  192 ;  left  at 
Polu  for  the  winter,  201 

Nurdin,  caravan-man,  an  obstinate 
patient,  26-7 

Nymget  Sring,  deputy  of  the  Pombo 
of  Kundor,  visit  from  and  assistance 
given  by,  85,  inaccurate  information 
of,  89 

Oky  Baoii  Laxcai!,  ofMoials  for  sup- 
pression of  trade  at,  2S5 

IJekay,  help  of  villagers  in  ford- 
ing the  Danga  Bash,  275 

Oprang,  obstructive  views  of  natives 
of,  114 

PassTroute  to  Raskam  )/<i.  115 

Oshbeldu,  the  Yuz  Bashi  of,  fraud  of 

and  punishment,  143,  210 
Ovis  Amnion,   record  skull   found  on 

return  journey  to  Ladak,  (;5 
Poll,  where  found, HI.  112,  358- 

61 
Oyunp,  pears  grown  at.  129,  2M1 

Paohim,  nomad  camp  at,  91,  slow  pro- 
gress from,  92 

Pamirs,  the,  in  Curzon's  map.  101. 
Deasy's  journey  to.  Kil    '.I 


416 


f\n/:.\ 


Painznl,  route  r'ui  to  tlie  Liinak  I,ii.  Ki 
I'lin  Ta-jin,   C'hi>\v    Kuuii  of  Kli(jtaii, 

332 
Peelee  Grass,  j,'Ood  quality  of,  34 
I'ekin.    tele|,'iaph     "facilities"    from 

KasliRar  to,  347-8 
Virxouuvl     of     First     expedition,    as 
organised  at  Fobranj?,  15 

Second  expedition,  103-4 

I'etrovsky,  M.,l{ussian  Consui-General 
at  Kash^ar,  111,  141),  attitude  of,  to 
ollicials,  missionaries  and  travellers, 
21)3-4,  321 ;  action  of  regarding  the 
outbreak  against  the  Swedish  mis- 
sionaries, 303 ;  action  in  regard  to 
Sonam's  illness,  273;  action  in 
regard  to  the  Kanjut-Kaskam  ques- 
tion, 355;  attitude  of  the  Taotai  to, 
21)1 ;  oflicial  position  of,  as  com- 
pared with  that  of  Macartney,  294 
I'ichanvart  vallev,  routes  out  of,  228 
Pike,  Arnold,  19,  20,  22,  23,  31,  35, 
3f),  37,  42.  4H,  41),  50,  02,  71,  72, 
Deasy's  companion  to  Tibet,  5,  15, 
name  given  by,  to  the  sub-surveyor, 
11,  visit  of  to  Himis  Monastery,  ih., 
estimate  of  numbers  of  antelope 
near  Camps  11).  and  20.,  20,  recon- 
naissances by,  27-8,  illness  of,  32, 
endurance  of,  33,  skill  and  pluck 
in  expedition  against  the  Chukpa 
raiders,  30-40,  further  illness  of,  45, 
character  of,  52;  tinds  Deasy  when 
lost,  53 ;  his  encounter  with  a  yak, 
07-8 ;  his  Spartan  ablutions,  83, 
lends  Deasy  his  pony,  1)0,  Deasy's 
farewell  to,  and  cordial  recognition 
of  his  help  and  society,  99 
I'll  valley,  Deasy's  route  to,  227,  other 
routes,  253,  the  journey  up,  237,  its 
annoyances,  238,  244,  glacier  in,  205 
Pilipert,  stone  huts  of  and  elevation, 
241,  routes  meeting  at,  241-2, 
journey  from  towards  Raskam,  and 
return' to,  242,  247,  249,  251,  work 
at  and  dismissal  of  men,  250-8 
Pillars  used  for   surveying   purposes, 

giving  rise  to  suspicions,  203 
Piyek    Pass,    elevation   of    and    view 

"from,  258-9 
Polu  and  district,  fatiguing  customs 
of,  157-8,  hospitality  of  inhabitants, 
158,  dental  operations  by  Deasy  at, 
100 ;  double  peaked  mountain  east 
of,  179,  seen  from  Camp  110.,  191 ; 


haze  preventing  survey  work  near, 
101  ;  village  of  Polu,  mountains 
near,  159,  position  of,  100,  ollicial 
reception  at,  100,  first  return  to 
welcome  of  the  Yuz  IJashi,  190-7, 
fea.st  given  by  Deasy  to  the  villagers, 
197-8,  second  return  to,  308-9, 
final  start  from,  312-3,  disagreeable 
ollicial  at,  308-9,  312 

Polu  and  Chaka,  the  Beg  of,  his  un- 
friendly action,  197,  consequent 
attitude  of  Deasy  to,  201 

Pombos  or  Headmen  of  Tibet,  churac- 
teri.stics  of,  4,  heavy  taxes  extorted 
by,  75 

of    Western    Tibet    ordered    to 

report  on  Deasy's  progress.  57 

Posgam,  151 

Prejevalsk,  293 

Pundit  Boota  Bam,  sharp  practice  of, 
283-4,  299,  343,  implores  a  letter  of 
recommendation,  301 

IlABzrxfi,  a  hard-working  man,  314, 
and  bold  rider,  320,  illness  of, 
callousness  of  his  companions,  300 

Rahbut,  the  journey  to  Sarikol  stopped 
at,  by  snow,  131,  219 

Baju,  caravan-bashi,  121,  his  ideas  of 
propriety  for  a  Sahib,  122,  acts  as 
censor  of  table  manners,  130-7 ; 
trouble  with,  H)5,  109,  good  work 
done  by,  192,  detained  at  Khotan, 
202,  plays  into  the  traders'  hands, 
at  Yarkand,  283-4  ;  fetches  camels, 
302 ;  again  gives  trouble,  300,  309, 
got  rid  of,  311 

Ram  Chicore.  where  found,  95,  221, 
elevated  haunts  of,  302 

Ram  Singh,  third  sub-surveyor,  204, 
214,  222,  224,  225,  227,  253,  278, 
315,  plucky  work  of,  254-5,  259, 
200,  270,  272,  ill-health  of  conse- 
quent on  exposure,  319 

Ramzan,  caravan-bashi,  15,  bad  treat- 
ment of  animals  by,  7,  u.selessness 
and  laziness  of,  27,  28,  theory  and 
practice  of  obedience  by,  74,  illness 
of,  91 

Raskam,  Yarkand  river  valley,  objec- 
tive of  the  second  journey,  101, 
objections  of  the  Oprang  villagers 
to  journey  to,  114,  authorities  claim- 
ing (sec  Kunjut-Raskam  question), 
120,   855 ;   entered   by   Deasy, — his 


i\dj:x 


417 


predt'cessois,  llH;  distrift  defined 
Hiid  described,  11 '.(20,  routes  to, 
from  I'ilipert,  241-*2,  survev  work 
at,  242 

river,    another    nanu-    for    tlie 

Yarkand  river,  144 

Kassoula,  tlie  cook,  hi.sapple-duniplinf,', 
42,  his  iinperviousness  to  cold,  and 
iin;,'nisiic  attainments,  '.(0 

Kastaiii  the  Ladaki,  case  of,  202 

Rawal  Tindi,  100 

Khubarl;,  wild,  near  Aru  Cho,  34 

Riccard,  Captain,  companion  of  Deasy 
on  return  to  Kashmir,  H2() 

Rinuli,  cami)  at,  10.  low  temperature 
at,  20 

Robbery  in  Chinese  Turkestan,  330 

Roberts,  Captain,  10!) 

Roborovsky,  Captain,  traveller  in 
Cliinese  Turkestan,  171 

Rudok,  otlicial  objection  to  Deasy's 
visit  to,  ()7,  suzerainty  of  over 
Gertie,  GO 

Rundor,  dop;  from  bites  Deasy,  84, 
guide's  vagueness  concerning,  79, 
HO,  journey  towards,  Hl-3,  nomad 
encampment  at,  84 

Russia  in  Central  .\sia  (.scr  Petrovsky), 
advance  of,  3o7,  movements  of  in 
Tibet,  //>.,  in  rehition  to  Chinese 
Turkestan,  354,  rt  seij.,  precautions 
taken  against  pbiRue  by,  273,  rule 
of,  in  Russian  Turkestan,  disliked 
by  natives.  3r)7,  trade  of  and  trailers 
in  Chinese  Turkestan,  342-3 

Russian  Tmkestan,  <lislike  of  Russian 
rule  l»y  natives,  3.")7 

Sai  l!\(iH,  and  region,  hospitality  of 
natives  of,  loH 

Sakti  valley,  rich  vegetation  in.  324 

Sancbil  Dawan,  2().").  2S1,  dillicnltics  in 
crossing,  12(1  H.  re-visited.  270 

Sanglash,  getting  the  yaks  down  near, 
234,  confidence  in  l)easy  shown  l)y 
villager  at,  237,  (frombchefsky's 
crossing  of  the  Yarkand  river  at. 
101 

Sannum,  his  sousing,  stupidity,  and 
conseipient  illness,  35~(),  trouble- 
some conduct  of,  US 

Sargon  I'ass,  svirvey  (>l)servations  near, 
222,  elevation  of  and  dilhoulties  in 
crossing,  227,  value  of  yak  in  such 
places,  22s 


Sarikol,  the  IJeg  of,  2s3.  helj)  given 
by  at  Lanyar,  210,  his  hospitality, 
213,  ditliculty  of  explaining  the 
object  of  the  journey  to,  23.5 

Deasy's    wish    to    explore,    137, 

acceded  to,  130,  but  prevented  by 
snow, 130-40 

Sarok  Kamish,  name  of  the  Yarkand 
river  at.  llH,  survey  elTorts  at,  110, 
route  from  to  Bazar  Dara,  123 

Tuz  valley,  Chine.se  post  at,  173. 

reason  for,  174 

Saroz  Kul,  camp  near,  310 

Sawras,  in  the  Yarkand  valley,  caves 
at,  and  winding  course  of  river  near, 
280-1 

Scind  valley,  leading  to  the  Zoji  La,  6 

Serai,  routes  to  and  from.  201-2 

Shamatagle,  camp  at,  220 

pass  of,  view  from,  survey  and 

photographic  work  at,  230 

Sharnoz  pass  and  village,  220 

Sheep  of  Tibet  or  Ijadak,  as  beasts  of 
burden,  3 

Shemen  Cho,  see  Charol  Cho 

Shigatze,  70 

Shiran  Maidan,  meeting  with  Mr.  I. 
Morse  at.  111 

Shor  Kul,  salt  lake,  elevation  of,  175 

Shoti,  elevation  of,  rough  scalTold 
road  near,  277 

Shukur,  ponies  hired  from.  104 

Shum,  camp  at.  20 

Sia.  the,  an  oOicial  sent  to  I'olu  to 
hinder  the  expedition.  308,  300,  312 

Sidik.  illness  of,  27 

Sidik  Shaye,Aksaksalof  Yarkand,  200 

Simla,  illness  of  Deasy  at,  on  his 
return,  320 

Sin-C'hiang,  native  name  for  Chinese 
Turkestan  (r/.r.).  130,  320.  el  /xms/w 

Sir  Huland  Ali  Sha,  Beg  of  the  Tajiks, 
near  Uaskam.  and  tlie  Kanjut- 
Raskam  (luestion.  355 

Slaverv  in  Chinese  Turkestan,  recent 
abolition  of,  330-40 

Sonam,  caravan-man,  310,  illness  of, 
20,  further  illness  and  Russian 
precautions  against  plague  in  re- 
lation to,  272  3  ;  inaeeura<y  of  his 
reconnaissances,  1H3,  accident  to, 
310 

Sonam  Sang,  310,  horror  of,  on  seeing 
his  photograph.  150 

Sorgak,   journey    from,    to    Kara    Sai 


»S 


4iS 


ixniix 


iiiUli(iriscil,  luid  proet't'di'd  on,  Klo-G, 
desolate  iet,'ioii  near,  and  t,'old-dig- 
ginf;  in,  1(5(5,  region  east  of,  1G7 

Snow- line  of  Western  Tibet,  elevation 
of,  71» 

Srinagar,  Densy's  ap^jearance  on  re- 
turning to,  100,  the  governor  of,  his 
disobligingness,  S,  hospitality  of 
Capt.  G.  Chenevix-Trench  to  Deasy 
and  I'ike  at,  5,  preparations  for 
second  journey  made  at,  102,  final 
return  to,  i}'2() 

Swedish  missionaries,  (see  liackliind 
and  Hogland),  at  Kashgar,  attack 
on,  302-3 

Surukwat  or  Karaul,  Oasis  of,  route 
from,  to  ]5azar  ]3ara,  120-1,  fords 
of  the  Varkand  river  near,  2(52 

Taghakm.v,  threatened  Kussian  seizure 

of,  Hoo,  ballled,  3o(; 
Taghdumbash    I'amir,   route  to,  102, 
elevation  of  camp  at,  111,  triangu- 
lation  work    at,  112,  Ovis    I'oli  of, 
358-61 

and  Gilgit  route  to  Kashmir,  201) 

Tahir  lieg,  mission  of  to  the  Munzo, 
243,  difliculties  of  his  journev,  253, 
2G2 

Takijs,  action  of  the  Beg  of,  as  l(j  tlic 
Kanjut-Kaskam  question,  355;  de- 
putation to  hinder  Deasy's  journey, 
117;  Iving  hal)itsof  thisVaee,  213-4, 
238-ii;  257,  2(51 

Takla,  2011,  supplies  obtained  at,  210 

Takla  Makan  desert,  Deasy's  opinion 
of,  based  on  native  information, 
287,  excursion  to,  149,  et  .•icq. ;  old 
books  said  to  come  from,  how 
"faked,"  141)-50 ;  summer  aspect 
of,  and  sand  dunes  in,  152,  uni- 
formity of  landscape  in,  153 ;  re- 
crossed  by  Deasy,  1891»,  285 

Taklay  and  Aytash,  ford  on  the  Yar- 
kand  river  between,  143 

Table  Kol  Su  river,  descent  to  valley 
of,  and  features  of  region,  117-8 

Talkolok,  source  of  supplies  for  the 
gold-diggers  of  Sorgak,  1(5(5  I 

Tankse,  1)2 

Tapin  Chat,  elevation  of  and  cold  at, 
123-4 

Tar  Agzi,  loess  formation  at,  121) 

Tara  Singh,  Sikh,  31),  40,  cure  applied 
to  his  cough,  1)5 


Tarini  Uoko,  excursion  to,  2(5(5,  bogic-^ 

near,  2()!( 
Tarim  Oasis,  scarcity  of  water  in  and 

the  reason,  28(5 
Tarsi  Pass,  elevation -of,  272 
Tartary  Peaks,  1.  and  2.,  the  Nabo  La 
connected  with  by  Deasy's  triangu- 
lations,  88 
Tashkurghan,  140,  Chinese  suspicion 
of    Deasy's  objects   at,   235-(5,   tiie 
Chow  Kuan  of  receives  secret  orders 
adverse  to  the  expedition,  11(5 ;  sup- 
plies obtained  from,  2(52,  route  from 
Yarkand  to,  210,  the  post  cm,  211) 
Taxation    in    Chinese  Turkestan,  the 
system  of  "squeezes,"  332 

in  Western  Tibet,  75 

Tazgun,  the  Beg  of,  281),  control  of, 

over  water-supplies,  28(5 
Teetai,    the,    of    Chinese    Turkestan, 

353,  (xee  also  under  Yarkand) 
Tekelik  Tagh  Mountains,  positions  in 
determined  by  the  Indian  Survey,  157 
Tekcscherek    river,  junction   of,   with 

the  Teriart,  fords  near,  270 
Teriart  river,  ih. 
Terelik  river,  confluence  of   with  the 

Kurab  river,  1(50 
Thachap  Gangri  Mount,  elevation  of 

measured.  (5(5 
Thokcho  Karu,  (Camp  76.),  elevation 

of,  81) 
Thok  Gerge,  prices  of  gold  at,  51) 
Thok  Jalung,  gold  said  to  be  found  at. 

63 
Thonchu,  (Camp  40. |,  little  game  near, 

71 
Thong  or   Thongal    I'ass,  leading   to 

Mariong,  elevation  of,  220 
Thurgo,  Camp  45.  at,  route  thence  to 

Thok  Jalung.  (53 
Tibet,  attractions  of  to  Deasy,  1,  route 
followed  by  thither,  5;  clear  atmo- 
sphere in,  28,  exposure  of  dead 
bodies  on  high  mountains  in,  76, 
heavy  taxes  in,  75-(i;  native  name 
for,  2  ;  ponies  of,  their  method  of 
finding  provender,  81)-1)0,  sheep  of, 
as  beasts  of  burden,  3 ;  second 
journey  to,  objects  of,  171-2 ;  trade 
of  with  India  and  Ladak,  staples 
of,  47,  warm  clothing  e.ssential  in, 
44 

Central,  no  feasible  caravan-route 

into,  185 


IXDJiX 


419 


Western,  t-liief  products  of,   47, 

{,'ame  in,  3(i3-4,  f^aeat  t,'lnrc  in,  27, 
snow-line  of,  its  elevation,  ?'.• 

Tibetan  and  Swiss  customs  as  to 
winter  pasture  of  flocks  contrasted, 
7G 

Tir,  larj^'est  village  in  the  Kulan  L'rgi 
valley,  route  to,  125 ;  injustice 
of  the  Chinese  interpieter  to  the 
people  of,  'Jfiit,  'A'A\ ;  unbelief  of 
natives  as  to  railway  trains,  170; 
the  Yuz  IJashi  of,  incorrect  infor- 
mation given  by,  126,  128,  punish- 
ment of,  134,  138,  attitude  of  to 
Deasy  after  his  deposition,  1'.I8, 
265,  revised  view  of  his  action, 
and  compensation  given  to,  by 
Deasy,  271 

Togral  Monpo,  dreary  district  near, 
IHS),  elevation  of  camp  at,  322-3, 
pass  near,  iSo 

Tolan  Khoja  river  and  valley,  alleged 
sole  route  across  the  Kwen  Lun 
mountains  vu'i,  173,  names  of  in 
dilTerent  parts,  174 

Tongral  Chunzak,  atmospheric  con- 
ditions at,  r.»2 

Topa  Dawan,  237,  slight  cultivation 
north  of.  111),  trail  to,  lis,  252, 
extreme  steepness  of,  253 

Tnigbal,  rest-house  at,  and  scenerv, 
105 

Transport  animals  requisite  for  tra- 
vellers in  Tibet,  3 

Trench,  Capt.  Ci.Chevenix-,  hospitality 
of,  to  Deasv  and  Pike  at  Srinagar, 
5,  6 

Trotter,  Col.,  site  of  his  observations 
in  Yarkand,  visited  by  Deasy,  144-6 

Tsimgli  Yamen,  message  from,  to 
Kashgar  oHicials  regarding  Deasy's 
expedition,  2'.)2 

Tiigadir  I'liss,  steep  declivities  below, 
230,  position  of,  233 

Tung,  near  the  Yarkand  river,  210 

Tung  Langar,  the  Oan  Dashi  of,  his 
frauds,  arrest  and  punishment. 
140-3 

Tuzlok  Sai,  conHuence  of  with  the 
Tolan  Khoja  river.  173,  174 

l\iii,  MC  Wacha 

rjadbai,mitivesof,  objecting;  to  Deasy's 

progress,  114 
I'lugh  Kul,  food  cached  at.  Kit) 


Irumtsi,  pay  dcpnt  of  the  Chinese 
Turkestan  army,   353 

L'shdir  J'ass,  track  from,  253,  alleged 
easy  route  over,  262 

Utam  Singh,  as  sportsman,  28,  sent 
with  Pike  against  the  Chukpas, 
3H-!) ;  collector  to  the  second  ex- 
pedition, 103.  illness  of  at  Yarkand, 
144,  further  dreadful  illness  of,  162, 
sent  to  Dr.  Messrur,  at  Yarkand. 
164,  204.  sent  back  to  Kashmir, 
2011,   death  of,  302 

Uzman,  elaborate  farewell  of,  181 

Wacha,    or    Uchi    valley,    200,    men 

from,    214,    return    to,    abandoned, 

277,  Ovis  Poll  said  to  frequent,  361 

Wahab,  Col.,   ob.servations  made  by, 

112,  20'.) 
Wellby,  (the  late)  Captain  M.   H..  iiis 

map  of  journeys  in  Tibet,  101 
Western  Tibet,  .sec  Tibet,  Western 
Wild  duck  in  Chinese  Turkestan,  3(53 

and  geese  in  Western  Tibet. 

364 

Yacizi,  rapid  stream  of  the  Yarkaiul 
river  at,  126 

Yajek,  diflicult  track  to,  143 

Yaks,  tame,  advantages  of  as  beasts 
of  burden.  123,  228,  indifference  of 
to  cold,  121 

— —  wild,  where  found.  22,  67,  68,  71. 
1!)4,  363 

Yangi  Hissar,  2!)7 

Y'angi  Shahr,  suburb  of  ^'arkund,  KiO, 
tlie  Ynnien  in,  134-5 

Yarkand,  the  Amban  of,  i^a-  the  Chow 
Kuan 

—  the  Chow  Kuan,  of,  (Liu  Tajin), 
relations  of  with  Deasv,  130,  132-5. 
136),  137,  help  given  'by,  130,  2.S3, 
305,  suspicions  of  Deasy's  objects, 
263,  2S3,  later  visit  from,  206-1). 
Deasy's  farewell  visit  to,  303,  ability 
and  energy  of  and  fairness  towards 
Deasy,  304;  liis  excuse  for  parricide, 
334  ;  liow  he  .saved  his  ollicial  posi- 
tion, 3:{1  ;  his  attempt  to  rai.se  a 
loan  from  the  local  Pegs,  333 ;  his 
energetic  action  in  regaril  to  Rus- 
sian aggression  at  Muluksha,  355 

crime,  punishment  and  pau- 
perism in,  .333-8 

Deasy's  arrival  at  and  (juarters 


420 


INDEX 


in,  130,  life  in  and  companions, 
i32,  et  seq.,  observations  for  longi- 
tude at,  144-(j,  return  journey  to, 
20IS,  preparations  for  winter  jour- 
ney to  Sarikol  from,  '2()4-(),  difli- 
culties  with  the  traders  of,  20(5, 
283-4  ;  return  to  in  189<>.,  282, 
preparations  at  for  journey  to  Kash- 
gar,  284,  297-303 

donkey  from,  15 

Oasis,  petition  from  for  the  re- 
moval of  the  Chow  Kuan,  331, 
trade  of,  with  Kashgar,  285 

the  prison  in,  334 

the  Teetai   of,   his   impoliteness 

and  apologies,  145-6 

or  Lhasa,  the  assumed  objective 

of  all  caravans  leaving  Ladak,  9 

river,  alleged   junction  of,  with 

the  Mariong,  220-1 ;  cavities  above, 
near  Sawas,  281 ;  crossed  by  Deasy 
on  the  ice.  139 ;  fords  of,  224,  near 
Bazar  Dara,  2(32;  ice  on,  near  the 
Misgan  .Tilga,  252,  point  crossed  by 
the  Khotan  road,  completion  of 
Deasy's  survey  to,  281 ;  track  along, 
probable  course  of,  253  ;  various 
names  of,  118,  144 ;  zigzag  course 
of  in  the  Mariong  region,  223 

valley  (xt'e  aUo  Raskam),  barren 

aspect  of  near  Kichik  Tung,  273 ; 
gravel  slope  in,  difficulty  of  cross- 
ing, 223-4;  ibex  in,  3(51;  objective 
of  the  journey  of  1897.,  101;  vege- 
tation in,  near  Bu  Kujerab.  225 

Yeilding,  Major,  assistance  given  by, 
104,  and  hospitality  of,  105 

Yepal  Ungur,  intermitting  streams  of, 
185,  route  v'xu  to  Sarok  Tuz,  174, 
camp  at,  and  lofty  mountains  seen 


from,  177-1^,  departure  from,  179, 
return  visit  to,  180,  triple-headed 
mountain  east  of,  177,  183 

Yeshil  Kul,  salt  lake,  22,  sweet  spring 
in,  18i) 

Yetin  Kozay  pass,  elevation  of  and 
topographical  work  near,  255 

Younghusband,  Capt.,  advice  of,  on 
travelling  comfortably,  54  ;  inquired 
for  bv  the  Ex-Beg  of'Xiziljy,  2(j2 

Yul  Bash,  the  dog,  278 

the  guide,  and  his  affecta- 
tion of  ignorance,  230-7,  242,  248-9, 
251,  253,  2.54,  257,  258 

Yupugay  Oasis  scarcity  of  water  at,  28(1 

Yurzanak  valley  and  pass,  jungle  in, 
254 

Zai),  the  Beg  of,  and  the  garrison  of 
Bazar  Dara,  122 

the  Ex-Beg  of,  visit  of  his  wife  to 

Deasy,  263,  meeting  with,  265 

conditions  of  life  at,  264 ;  Deasy's 

Christmas  Day  at,  263  ;  position  of 
and  permanent  Kirghiz  encamp- 
ment at,  123 

Zambok  the  dog,  162,  246,  frozen  to 
death.  247 

Zanskar,  ponies  from,  15 

Zarafshan  river,  the  Yarkand  river 
near  Korasab,  meaning  of  the 
name,  144 

Zingral,  below  the  Chang  La,  11 

Zoji  La,  difficulties  of,  and  elevation, 
5,  6,  winter  crossing  of,  99,  man 
found  frozen  to  death  on,  100 

Zosteria  Marina,  (Grasswrack),  found 
at  great  elevation,  183,  {noU  184-5) 

Zumchi,  cultivated  region  and  geo- 
logical formation  near,  129 


UNWIN   BROTH  |;KS,   TUK   GUESHAM    PUESS,   %VOKINfi    AND   LONDON. 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 

Los  Angeles 
This  book  is  DUE  on  the  last  date  stamped  below. 


opp  9  f,  1949 


^:^MiKi     JUN  2  6  19S|S 


D^ 


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V«,  •■  - 


;;^vWi-  Lu^' 


CEC  23  1954 


AM. 
7    8  '  9  I0!ll!12:i!2 


3i^ 


Form  L9-25m-8, '46(9852)444 


THE  IT  BR ART 


UC  50' 'TwfB',  RtCilONA.  ^.BRARt  fAC 


AA    001  131  749    2